How to Enlarge One-Size Gridded Patterns to Plus Sizes
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This may in fact be my most requested video! We're going to take a look at how to use one-size gridded patterns, like you can find in books and other pattern diagrams. Today, we're going to look at how to do this with skirts, and there will be a Part 2 to this soon which will look at bodices/corsets. This method will work for any waist size or length.
Great books with gridded patterns
Period Costume for Stage and Screen, by Jean Hunnisett: www.amazon.com...
Patterns of Fashion 1-5, by Janet Arnold: theschoolofhist...
The Victorian Dressmaker, by Izabela Pitcher: www.priorattir...
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Some wrapping paper has a one-inch grid on the back of it to make cutting easier. If you find some of it and buy it on sale after holidays, it's fairly cheap and then you have gridded paper!
That's what I did. I got 100 sq ft roll (40 ft long by 2.5 ft wide(30")Used it to make my first 1890's walking skirt pattern. The label on the wrapper will tell you if it has the grid on it, also.
Thank you so very much! I’m a plus-size woman myself to the point that no store bought patterns even fit. I’ve been trying to figure out how to draft patterns from books so I can wear pretty things too. This is a life saver! I can finally start to rap my head around all this.
Hi Rebecca, you explained this very clearly, such a great help. What I do when taking patterns out of a grid in a book; I drew out a 1” grid on a very large piece of cardboard. I put my pattern paper over that and add a washi tape to prevent shifting. Because the pattern paper is somewhat transparant i can see the grid and just draw out the pattern counting the squares. Works wonderful..
That's a really interesting idea!
My cutting board , a large folding piece of cardboard, has that too as well as curves drawn on it.
Looking forward to part 2. Thanks for the info! Your video really helped me with some vintage lingerie patterns!!
I’ve just started looking into how to do this (talk about biting off more than I can chew😂) the timing couldn’t be more perfect! Thank you for taking the time!!! 💕💕💕
Something that helps when using grids like this is to make a bolder line every 5 blocks. It makes counting a lot easier.
A warning that Hunnisett used metric natively, and she warns that the inch measurement is approximate. People who are using her pattern because they've discovered the specific one is in their size should therefore use the cm measure, because it will more accurately produce the garment in their own size.
As someone with a "natural" bum roll, your measurements about skirt length and having the back longer than the front made so much sense! Most plus size skirts are rectangles, but your description made so much shape. Maybe if I watch your channel long enough, I'll get the courage to try to sew for myself. I'd love to see more videos like this or even just how to start if you only have basic sewing skills.
Have you seen my video on how to get started in historical costuming? It might help! ruclips.net/video/iYmn8AWAIA4/видео.html
Also, if you're regularly making things from gridded patterns, a longer ruler is helpful. You can get long metal rulers (60 inches or so) in the hardware store. They're cheaper there than rulers in a fabric or hobby store!
Very instructive, very well explained! Great video! 😊🥰
I draw my enlarged pieces out on clear plastic sheeting (from a garden centre or DIY outlet) with a sharpie - lay the plastic on one of those 1" gridded mats (I have a big cardbaord one thatfolds away for storage) and it's really easy to draw out your pattern pieces. It's easy to trace through, alterations, trim placement or style alterations can be done in different colouirs of sharpie and the pattenr pices are afar more durable than paper patterns.
I also trace all my commercial/multi-sized pattern pieces onto plastic sheeting for my working copy so I don't have to cut up the original. tissue pattern.
Omg, that is much easier than what I have done. Less math and less margin for error.
Such a wonderful resource for this community. Thanks Rebecca!
Yesssssssssssss!!!!
Thank you so much for this. I have been wanting to tackle some things in patterns of fashion. I feel much more confident now 😊
Thanks for a great video😊
You look so pretty in that green blouse!
Love working from a grid - fortunately for me most seem to be close to my measurements but I still check like this. And the pattern is free! Well, after you've bought the book 😁📚 looking forward to seeing the 'other' method.
As far as the out of print book goes, try Thrift Books. If it's currently out of stock with them you can add it to your wishlist, and when they receive a copy they'll send you an email letting you know that it's in stock. I got a couple of out of print knitting books through them for good prices. (Right now it is out of stock on their site, and yes, I added it to my wishlist. 😄 )
Thank you! Very helpful. I had done something similar on a one-size skirt pattern, but I got a little paranoid because it was easy! Nice to see that yes, that's how it's done. Sometimes a novice sewer just wants to see an experienced person do a thing. Can't wait for the bodice info.
If we can post dreams; it would be a fantastic experience to have a sewing retreat with you. Maybe for corset making? You are a fine teacher.
Aw, thank you!
Really helpful. Thank you.
I want that green blouse 💚 thank you for all the tips and tricks you use, I find it so useful to see how different people do this. Different people have different thought processes and I learn something different from each video I watch😊
I'm glad it was helpful! And I want this green blouse back too. It majorly shrank in the wash after this first wearing, and I had to return it. I was so sad! 😔
Very helpful thank you
I've been meaning to try working from a gridded pattern for a while now and knew that I could trial-and-error my way to victory, but having this good guide is so helpful! It'll take a lot of struggle out of my first attempt. Thank you! :)
Yes!This is perfect, and it came just in time to help me draft a new skirt
Thank-you for this explanation!! It has really helped me understand this process a lot better! 😊👍🏽
I’m getting more into sewing, and in addition to sizing up existing patterns, I’m also trying to get the hang of pattern drafting/design. For both, I’ve found an architect’s scale really handy! So much so, that my mom got me one for Christmas so I’d stop borrowing hers.
Your book is available on Amazon (UK) I think. £200 for hardcover, £79 for paperback.
It's a great book, but that is such a steep price tag!
...Love your endless supply of creative energy! I look forward to the next video on this topic.
Thanks for the instructions!!! I feel much more confident about attempting gridded patterns!
This is a wonderful resource video. I have Izabella's book (and have ordered her 2nd book), but have never actually made anything using this method for patterns. This has certainly helped me better visualize the process.
I loved this video! I have always wondered how this was done and now I know...at least I have something to refer to when I decide to draft something myself! Thank you so much and I look forward to watching the next one too!
It says 1 square= 2.5 cm (1 in) and that's not exactly true, 1 in=2.54 cm. So there's some error there and it can be significant depending on the lenght of the mesurement. And if they weren't consistent rounding up or down when doing the conversions for all the mesurement, that can explain why the back piece ended up being shorter.
This is great information! Thank you Lady Rebecca!
very helpful - I feel better tackling the darks, pleats, etc now.
Great video I’m starting to look for the pattern for my dream coat so this will come in handy. Though I may also have to frankinpattern to get my vision.
This is a fantastic technique. although I will never write in a book (too big of a bibliophile for that) but a copy of a pattern work wonders as well. :}
Thank you,very useful video, I think it's all magical and you explained it into something usable.💖
I sized up a the top half of an athletic corset as a bra replacement... Printed out the pattern that had no scale, drew a grid over it, and used the waist measurement as my non-negotiable measurement to scale up from, drew a custom grid according to my expansion factor.... turns out I had to reduce the bust a surprising amount ... and didn't need the darts in the waist at all.... I'd imagine if I'd made the whole thing, I'd have had to reduce the hip measurement too, or install a LOT of padding... so now I wonder if the waist is actually the right thing to measure if I ever go back and make the full thing... I mean, i've already got half the thing drawn out and mocked up, so I'd just repeat what I'd done to draw out the bottom half of it... although I might just fudge it since I'm reasonably sure my hips are way smaller than the pattern is meant to fit,and I'll be using none of the original seam lines by the time I'm done a mockup...
Thank you so much this was great
Some of the gridded patterns in books can be wrong, as yours seemed to be. I am currently working on a miniature version of an 1860's dress taken from one of the Janet Arnold books, (it is around 2 x the gridded size - a large Barbie doll), and discovered that one of the back sections on the grid was out by 1". Once I increased it it all fitted together like a dream, even the sleeves!
Thank-you 😊 💓
Was part two ever made? Having trouble finding it and not many resources on how to scale up AND increase size of gridded patterns! I’m looking at making a corset so I want it to be super accurate!
I don't think I ever actually made the part two. I still mean to, but I haven't had a project that calls for that technique yet.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions ah no worries! I look forward to it 😊
Yeassssss
Love this information Rebecca, really easy to follow, thank you. I’d love to see a version for enlarging bodices too 😀
Is there a video for sizing up corsets and bodices?
Not with gridded patterns (yet), but the video that I just did a week ago about sizing up un-gridded patterns is basically the same method (just, having the grid makes it a little easier).
When you're adding onto the seams how do you know where to put the darts and pleats? Also with the back piece that is almost all pleat would it work to just add an extra 1 1/2 inches onto it?
I generally find that for darts, you wind up putting them where they seem to be needed, not necessarily where the pattern tells you to put them. For pleats, I would say it depends on how much extra you wind up adding. For example if a back section is supposed to be pleated to 5", and you need to pleat it to 8", most likely you'll actually want about 9" extra of fabric there (since a lot of pleats require 3x as much fabric per pleat). I hope that makes sense!
Would you say this would work with the pattern layouts in the Tudor Taylor or Janet Arnold?
Yep!
Thanks for the book refer, any out-of-print book websites? I'm looking for a very long list of books I've lost
I think generally, ebay and abebooks are your best bets.
@@LadyRebeccaFashions oh thanks
I noticed that you added volume across the bottom, which is not normally the case when lengthening a pattern. Pattern companies don't tell you to do this, but I understand why for scale with your explanation. Since I have to shorten my patterns usually significantly, I'm 5'0", and quite plus size is it advisable to reduce some of the skirt volume?
Honestly, I feel like that might be something you'd have to experiment with. I know for me, I prefer to have them wider because of scale, as you said. If you are shortening and widening your skirts, you may still want that extra width.
Hi Rebecca,
I have watched this a few times and I think I keep confusing myself. I’m trying to resize a fried pattern from Making Victorian costumes for women pattern 10 in the book.
There are two layers of the skirt and a gathering bustle on the over skirt back. I have no idea on how the add onto the back layer and I’m absolutely lost. 😩
Maybe I’m way out of my league ☹️
Is the back part just fully gathered? If so, you can kind of add as much to it as you want!
Have you ever enlarged a pattern from say a doll or Barbie size, if so how did you do it (video would be great)
I have not -- that sounds super challenging!
Thank you, you have increased my knowledge
Did I miss something? How were you able to enlarge this to your size?
Did you watch the video...?
@@LadyRebeccaFashions Yes. I watched it. I'm not being a smart ass, I'm just trying to understand. I've never done anything like this before. You don't have to be mean.
@@barbaraselletti6520 I'm really sorry - I didn't intend to be mean. What part were you having trouble with?
Me: *sees this vid*
Me:*whips out the cut of womens clothes*
Sorry Rebecca, but I fear that you misread the pattern. The piece on the far right on the gridded page you'll find to actually be a centre front insert as demonstrated on the left hand page. That is why the length measurements of that piece and the front are the same.
I have actually worked in Jean Hunnisett's workshop in the early 80s.She was a very exacting lady, who demanded the highest standards and quality in her work.
Nope, it's definitely the back. That's why it says "(d) Back: cut to fold"
@@LadyRebeccaFashions, sorry, I spotted the image on the left, which looked like an insert panel in the front. Im very surprised though, as Jean Hunnisett was always so insistent on accuracy and all work needed to be immaculate. That's why I was so surprised at this strong difference in length, which is so much unlike to having experienced her work practices. My apologies.
I don't know if the imag on the left page is the representation of the gridded pattern, but if it is, it looks like the center back is higher than the front. But I may be wrong. Anyway, great tutorial, easy to follow. ^_^