3 Methods to Scale Up Historical Pattern Books
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2024
- The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/enchantedrosecostumes1...
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Ever wondered how to scale up a pattern from historical books? Then this is the video for you!
When I first started historical costuming I bought a few pattern books but I felt very lost when it came to scaling them up. After some trial and error here are the methods I now use to make them life size!
Thank you to American Duchess the scaling instructions for the second method!
Here is the link to their blog that helped me figure it out!
blog.americanduchess.com/2019...
MENTIONS:
My Favourite Costume Books
• My Favourite Costuming...
Scaling up and Enlarging big patterns || Constellation Gown
• Making a Victorian Bal...
Morgan Donner Pattern Video - • Scaling up a Pattern t...
Historical Ready Made Patterns:
-Redthreaded (Corsets and Stays)
-Scroop Patterns
-Truly Victorian
-Wearing History
- Laughing Moon Patterns
-Sense and Sensibility Patterns
-JP Ryan Patterns
-Larkin & Smith
-Fig Leaf Patterns
-Black Snail Pattern
-Lynn McMasters Millinery (Hats)
-Margo Anderson Patterns (Tudor/Elizabethan)
(check out Burnley and Trowbridge for a list of men's and and children's patterns)
The following links are affiliate links, so if you decide to purchase one of the items below I may receive a small commission. It doesn't change the price of the item, and these funds help me to continue to purchase materials for new projects!
BOOKS:
Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1500 - 1800
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Period Costume for Stage and Screen 1800 - 1909
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Corsets and Crinolines
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The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600 -1930
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The Cut of Men's Clothing 1600 -1900
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IMPORTANT THE SCHOOL OF HISTORICAL DRESS IS RE-RELEASING POF 1-4 *IN COLOUR* IN 2021!!!! VISIT THEIR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO!!!
Patterns of Fashion 1
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Patterns of Fashion 2
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Patterns of Fashion 3
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Patterns of Fashion 4
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Patterns of Fashion 5
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American Duchess guide to 18th Century Dressmaking
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American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty
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Costume Close Up 1750 - 1790
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Regency Women's Dress
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Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol. 2
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The Voice of Fashion: 79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns
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Authentic Victorian Patterns: A Complete Lady's Wardrobe
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59 Turn-Of-The-Century Fashion Patterns
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The Victorian Dressmaker
www.priorattire.co.uk/ourshop...
FILMING EQIUPMENT:
Camera: Canon Rebel T5i DSLR Kit 18-55mm
(similar model Canon T6i DSLR Kit 🇨🇦 amzn.to/2WtCJJl)
Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM 🇨🇦 amzn.to/2Ws9Q06
Lighting:
GVM 560 LED Video Lights (2 pack)
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Mic:
Blue Yeti - Silver (voiceover)
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Mic: PowerDeWise Professional Grade Lavalier Lapel Microphone
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OTHER SOCIAL MEDIA ACCOUNTS
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For business enquiries only, please:
EnchantedRoseCostumes@gmail.com
(Sorry, I do not take personal dressmaking commissions)
#Costube #PatternBooks #SkillShare
Chapters
00:00 - 01:08 - Intro
01:09 - 05:14 Grid Patterns
05:15 - 09:45 Non Grid Patterns
09:46 - 11:04 Skillshare
11:05 - 23:00 - Apportioning Rulers
23:00 - 24:17 - Go Forth and Create your own Patterns!
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/enchantedrosecostumes10201
Great demo Marika! This is the missing piece for many people. I'd like to add one caveat, if I may: sometimes the patterns in those old books without grids aren't suuuuper accurate. Sometimes they were intended to show the general cut of a garment and weren't intended to actually be used to recreate it, I believe (looking at you, Norah Waugh). I've been caught out with the 1780s jacket in Cut Of Women's Clothes - the collar isn't *quite* curved enough. So approach with a little healthy skepticism and always mock up first!
Thank you Cathy!!
That is really good to info to know... So, if the pattern has been separated from the ruler that would accompany it, would you just start with the measurements that are listed, like as a mockup of the "standard" size? Or how would you suggest utilizing that pattern?
@@francesgrimble1865 I guess that's what I should start looking for. I am not sure where the patterns come from. That's part of the problem.
That's the golden rule, mock up, mock up, mock up
I need to try out that ruler method, it looks fun!
They are sooo much fun! And there are so many pattern you can find on pinterest!!
I'm laughing out loud...I needed a brain rest at the 14 minute mark . Fun wasn't exactly the noun that I would use for that method but I'm glad to revisit it in after a quick break. :D
@@l.m.2404 I'm with you there -- strange Idea of fun.
One trick I like is to pick up a bunch of jumbo wrapping paper rolls, usually on clearance after Christmas. They usually have a one inch grid printed on the back, which makes grid patterns super easy.
I use it too... great source of large grid paper.
@@l.m.2404 that's a brilliant idea! I've only seen wrapping paper with grit on the back ones but I'll keep an eye out for them no! Thanks for sharing!
OH MY GOD, why have I never thought of this?! I have like 20 rolls of wrapping wrapping paper I could have been using this whole time!
Viewing Marika's video is like having a wise, gentle friend sitting with you as you muscle through a historic pattern.
💜💜💜
BLESS YOU FOR THIS. My brother got my a Patterns of Fashion book for my birthday & while I have all the hopes and dreams in the world... I am overwhelmed at having to create 1700s gown pieces instead of just cutting them out LOL.
Someone’s letting me borrow their book but I can’t find the scaler at all if you know it it’d be great help 😭
I kept experiencing that "AHHHHHH. I understand now!" moment. Like five times! Astonishing and wonderful. Thank you.
I used the proportion ruler method but I wanted to use my computer pattern software to create the pattern. I copied the ones for my bust, waist and hips. Took my 18 inch clear ruler and taped the rulers to the back with the inches side up. I can now got to the correct measurement and put it in my software and create my pattern. Great video. I learned a few things. Thank you for doing this.
Thank you! I have several really old pattern books that I have tried to use, not realizing that it was a different ruler than i had . Now that i know i need a apportioning ruler I will try them again. Thank you for explaining this. It's one of the hard parts for us self taught seamstress. So many questions and no one to ask while I was learning. I learned how to make paper packages patterns bigger and smaller, but the ones I really wanted were found in old books with no direction at all. They assumed we knew how it was done. And you know what we say about assumption......
I've never heard of the third method before but OMG I love it!! I really wanna try that! The great thing is that you already have the pattern altered to your measurements, so minimal effort.
I have been very overwhelmed by the idea of trying an aportioning ruler so thank you for this video. I'm excited to try some patterns from Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques.
I think this will go in my list of reference videos for when I have great need of advice.
Watching again while Missy is recovering from her dump truck encounter. I miss her a lot but these repeats are entertaining.
Thanks now I can finaly do the ruler methode.
Couldn't figure out how to use them
Incredibly informative. Gridded and non-gridded made sense to me, but I have zero experience with apportioning rulers. Thank you very much for explaining it so thoroughly! I’m itching to get my hands on some apportioning pattern books, now. Love, light, and blessings to you and yours.
Thank you !!!!! Finally I get How It works, for non english is much dificult to hit on the right meaning when we read those books I just lose Hope to get It right. You open a World to me and gave impuls to try again!!
This is th video of my dreams! I've been wanting to branch into victorian fashion and was trying to figure out how to size up the patterns. Now I just need to find and apportioning ruler! :) Thank you again.
store.cosplaysewingschool.com/p/scale-approption-rulers/
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes you're amazing!! Thank you!! 😁
Oh my word, this came at just the right time for me! I am planning on trying my hand at a jacket from the Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns this winter. Thank you for saving me much head-scratching and puzzlement!
This was great! I did not even learn this in tailoring school as we spent most of our time drafting patterns from scratch. I am going to get so much use of these methods. Thank you!
I always love seeing different ways to scale up patterns! I have my eye on one of the corsets in the Jill Salen book but have been debating with myself on how to scale it up. While watching you I had a brainwave that might work! (Tracing out the pieces and then using a copier to resize them. Our printer is a multifunction one from back when Dad had his own business, before he retired, so it can act as a copier.)
I have been looking at the Jill Salen book! Which corset are you planning to make? Also having a multifunction printer is so handy!
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes The red & black one on the cover! lol I'm planning on modifying it slightly for historybounding by replacing the front busk with ziptie bones, and using ziptie bones in the back. (I may add a pocket so I can add a ruler as a flat metal busk for stiffer front.... Undecided on that.) I'll need to do some maaaaaaaaajor resizing. I think there's something like a 20" difference between the size of the corset as-is and what I need in a corset.
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes And I just did a test run of tracing-then-enlarging and I'm pleased with how it turned out! I think with the use of tracing paper and a ruler (and registration marks where I'll have to overlap pieces), and this will work very well! :D Not a technique that's easily accessible to everyone, but certainly something I can do.
Yay!
I've had good experience with apportioning rulers with my mock up combinations fitting well enough I can wear it
Thank you Marika for the wonderful methods explained here.
Thank you thank you thank you for the apportioning ruler method!!!! I have been so curious about how that is supposed to work! You're the best!
I always love "find the link" finger guns. LOL. Fantastic information. Thank you!
The ruler method looks sooooo cool to do! I am an absolute beginner, but would love to try the method at some point. It just looks so fun, and the prospect of the garment fitting perfectly sounds amazing!
Thankyou Miss Marika, very helpful indeed, thanks teacher.
All Hail, Marika! The Master Dot-to-dot-er!! This was useful. You made it look easy. Thank you. Stay well.
Guurrrrlll - I WANT to give you 200 likes!! This was SO on point and laid out to be very understandable - YAY!! This is just what I needed to learn. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!
As an Australian, trying to figure out the measurements is always a nightmare! What's wrong with the metric system?! Trying to figure out 5.9 inches is in centimeters is enough to make you want to find whoever created the imperial measuring system and smack them. But I digress, Thank you for explain this in such an easy-to-follow way. I just brought myself the Pattern of Fashion 5 for my birthday and cant wait to take it for a spin.
oh my god!!!! FINALLY!!!! I have had two of the Christina Harris books with selected patterns to try and make I could not for the life of me work out half to draft the bleeding things from her instructions- this makes the proportion rulers make so much more sense- thank you so much!
Also cheers for the tip on then how sew those patterns- I shall make sure I finally buy that book off my wishlist next
Inkscape is the free photoshop like program. It's got a little learning curve but there are tons of RUclips tutorials to help with enlarging patterns.
GIMP is the free Photoshop. Inkscape is more like a free Illustrator.
Im so glad you mentioned the special rulers for the Victorian fashion book because I just bought that book, and had no idea I needed to make a ruler.
That’s my exact favourite design from turn-of-the-century patterns!!!! Not that I’ve been game yet to actually make it... but hmm. Maybe now? 😆 Thanks Marika!
It is such an awesome coat!!! It needs to be made!
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes how true 😁
I know others are saying Inkscape is a good program, but another one to try that is also free is GIMP. And now I'm a little upset. I JUST returned the Edwardian Modiste to the library yesterday! It is another one with the apportioning rulers. I had it all through being at home with lock down and working at home. The library from which I got it was closed for a long time (academic library). I had no idea how to use it, so it sat on my shelf for most of that time.
I was coming her to say that ...
GIMP ≈ Photoshop
Inkscape ≈ Illustrator
Both Inkscape and GIMP are free, and quite complex to learn. [I don't know of any good free, simple drawing programs.] But anything you can do in Photoshop or Illustrator, you can do with one of these.
I'm a web and graphic designer, and did freelance work with the free software.
@@lizcademy4809 I have never got my head around GIMP (which my husband likes) but I love paintdotnet. I love being able to draw in paintdotnet, which I haven't figured how to do in GIMP. My question: what am I missing out on by not persevering with GIMP or does paintdotnet do most of it anyway?
I have probably half these books. I have so far only used the grid method found in Janet Arnold's books. I haven't tried the scaled ruler yet found ninths Victorian dress books. I have both unfortunately I misplaced the Dress Making Techniques book when I reorganized my sewing room I added a table a repurposed a book case the my 4 yr old broke trying to climb up like a ladder. I turned upside-down and set it on one of my tables and now use it as a short book case. When I pulled all my sewing books out of their various hiding spots I somehow misplaced it. You just explained to me what I needed to know in order to enlarge them and put them on paper. Maybe now I will try my hand at the riding habit in the book I manage to not misplace. This really e as very informative video. I think I need to add photoshop now to my computer.
Thank you so much for this video! I have been very hesitant to try to either buy a book where I have to scale. You explained everything so very clear that you took the scary out! 👏💕💫
Thank you for this! It is very helpful to see how you navigate scaling up the different types of patterning books.
Oh wow, I really want to try out the apportioning rulers method!
I've done a couple of patterns from The National Garment Cutter Book of Diagrams without an apportioning ruler. It took a *lot* of math. I found out the ratio between the waist measurement for the pattern and my own and then multiplied all the horizontal measurements by that. Thankfully, I didn't have to change the vertical measurements. This actually worked out fairly well (still needed mockups but not too many) as that is essentially what apportioning rulers do for you without all the math. I loved the tip for using the rulers on gridless patterns to find out how much to enlarge the scan by. That's a great tip!
Oh my goodness I commend you! I likely would have ended up a sobbing mess on the floor if I tried the figure it out with out one of the rulers 😅😅😅
@@EnchantedRoseCostumes The blog post by Sewing Goatherd makes the math sound fairly easy, if it helps. (As in, breaking it down in a manner that's easy to understand. Just basic division that you can do with a calculator and a piece of paper you fold to get the smaller divisions!)
Oh very good to know!
Happy to know! I'm not bad at math, but it's definitely not my favorite. However, Geometry is my strong suit, so I might be ok then without a ruler.
@@maywenearedhel I agree. Math isn’t my strong suit but I’m good with geometry. But I agree with Marika that these patterns are not for the novice sewist. There is a lot of assumed knowledge in the patterns.
Kind of had no idea how much I needed this refresher..I have a pattern I've been avoiding because it's a non-gridded. It's been a really long time since I've worked with one. Thank you for this video.
Wonderfully informative. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for posting this video. I have used all the methods mentioned, including the one from Morgan Donner. I like the apportioning rulers, and like you, I like playing connect the dots...😁
I have all the books including more from the Voice of Fashion, which I downloaded from the internet. You answered some questions I had for the rulers. I love that jacket, the sleeves are
FABULOUS...
Thanks again
American Beauty Corsets
R. Boregman 😁
@@francesgrimble1865 I didnt download YOUR book. ITs is a actual copy of an Original Voice of Fashion, magazine published in The fall of 1895.
I believe it was on the Internet Archive.
Or the Library of Congress, I dont exactly remember...I do a LOT of research.
I have all your books, and the ones from Kristina Harris too I love them all!! They have opened a whole new world for me..
Thank you for such marvelous books.
😁
The apportioning method looks the easiest!
Brilliant and smiling explanations, thank you so much!
Wow this is great. Thank you!
This is so helpful! Thank you so much
Woah this is so useful thank you!
Thank you for this. I need to try the apportioning ruler one.
Great video, very useful information
This is such an amazing tutorial!! Thank you so much for producing this video-well done!
You've explained things so clearly!! What a life saver! Thank you!!!!!
You are very welcome!
Oooow this looks like soo much fun I want to try them all 🥰
Thank you 🙏🏻, a wonderful informative video. You explain things so clearly. 🥰
Bookmarking this video for many future reference uses! Thanks!!
Thank you so much for all the info and the books 😢 it's just what I've been looking for.
thank you!! i was just struggling with a pattern from a nora waugh book when i saw this upload!
I've never understood the apportioning ruler before this, great explanation!
Fascinating stuff 👍
Wow! that was so helpful. TY
This is gold!!! Thank you 💖🦸🏼♀️
You're welcome! 😁
A really usefull video. I knew most of the techniques, but not the one with the special rulers :D I love these enlightening moments :) Thank you lots!
Oh my, The 3rd method might actually work with my not-so-feminine bodyform. I need to try it. Luckily I already have one of the books. I need to be brave and try out the ruler method.
Thanks for another great how-to video! I haven't tried any of these yet, but am excited to get going! I have this video bookmarked for when I am ready!
I have all of those books and now I know how to use them! Thanks so much!
NIce clear instructions. I learned a lot. Thank you.
Marika, this is amazing. Can't thank you enough. I have read how to use these, but didn't quite get it. Your video is a keeper for sure. I will watch it a few times but you are the first person to truly show and explain how these patterns work. You deserve an internet award! :) Thanks also for the link to the Cosplay site with the rulers. I don't have the Voice of Fashion book so I will be purchasing the rulers from the link. Can't wait to give this a real try. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! :)
Thank you so much for explaining how to use the apoortioning rulers, best explanation.
Thank you so much for this video I love your channel cause it is so wholesome and just relaxing and peaceful. You and Morgan Donner are so awesome and just chill ladies.
I wonder if you could use apportioning rulers to make the grid and non-grid patterns to your proportions. Just make the pattern once using the original scale but then figure out the measurements between the points but retracing the pattern using your own ruler, might work. Question would be how you know which ruler to use where I'm guessing it depends of which piece your are working on but it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. Might require some trial and error but boy it could be fun to try.
I’m glad you have this video. I love my pattern books but I can’t make them because I don’t know where to begin with scaling a pattern up to my size
Ahhh so that's what those arrows mean. Thank you!!
Super video!!
Definitely saving this!!! It’s been a while since I was trying to scale up patterns but an easy to find reference is always good. The ruler method looks the easiest and scaling it to size or close sounds amazing!! This could lead to another rabbit hole!! Or twenty seven!!! I need more time to make all the things and learn all the things!!!!
Thank you for the awesome tutorial. I just purchased a pattern (and rulers) for a 1930's outfit. Your instrutions are awesome. Thank you.
I've always wondered how those antique patterns were supposed to work! Now I know!
Thanks for this video. I've wondered more than once how this was done. Now I need to try these methods to see which one works best for me.
this was a really good working demo for the assorted techniques. I like the math one myself. And it reminded me of the differences which was useful.
this is so helpful! I just got into historical sewing this year and all the patterns I've used are drafted on wrapping paper from books or online pictures because I don't have any paper patterns. the first one i did(the keystone walking skirt) took me a little while to figure out, but now I actually really enjoy drafting out the patterns.
Oh, this is so helpful, thank you Marika!
Thank you so much for this video! I found a copy of the Directoire Revival Fashions at my local library after watching this, and I would be completely bewildered had I not seen your explanation! ❤️
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This video is so very helpful and I can't wait to actually use my books to draft patterns in the future.
Good luck!
All this methodes are great recommendations, I bought The cut o woman’s clothing two weeks ago and I couldn’t figure out how to enlarge the patterns this video grave me various options, thank you!
perfect! i just received my PoF5 !! great timing!
also yes please i need a video on adjustments techniques!
Now I understand the 3rd method! Just a suggestion to save time - if you usually trace a 2nd copy why don't you pin a 2nd piece of paper underneath before you cut it out? Looking forward to the next video 😊🧵
That was immensely interesting! I have patterns like the apportioning ruler ones ones for the 1950s, but the starting point for those are at a point in the middle of the pattern pieces. Haven't quite figured out, how that works with different sizes for bust/hip/etc. I need to play around with those for sure...
Omg I love you you are a life saver praying it works 😭 for me subscribed !!
I hope it goes well for you 😁
Recently I used a method that is called something like "radiant method (?)" With the help of an engineering ruler!
What is that fabulous yellow gridded ruler you are using in the last method? (At about 15:00 of the video) And can I get it at an Art Supply Store? P.S. Great video!
New methods for me to try! And I'm so curious of the rulers, just one more thing the makes me want to jump into some late Victorian fashion making...
I would like to try the special ruler method. I like connecting dots too. I think I would feel extra happy that I was able to take a small pattern in a book and translate it to my size. You made it look so easy! I have difficulty with printed pattern instructions and the measurements are always off from the big 4. I think I will watch this again to get the names of the books down. Thank you for sharing this with us!! Very educational.
I have all the books listed below if that helps! The apportioning ruler method is a lot of fun!
This was verrry helpful. I’m teaching myself pattern drafting as I am lusting after that walking suit pattern with the gigot sleeves. My fabric of choice is $100./metre (yard) so a mock up and great fit is essential.
Authentic Victorian dressmaking demystified! Yay! Thank you for these!
For those of us that are poor and can't afford Photoshop. Inkscape is basically a photoshop for free the program is quite robust, has loads of features and it is easy to use. GIMP is also free and you can you most on the same things a photoshop as well.
Thank you for the recommendations!! 😁
Thank you very hepful
It has been 3 decades since I was at collage doing dressmaking and fashion designing 😹😹 it was interesting how quickly I remembered how I was taught on how to draw up pattern pieces nicely done it was fun having such a re-fresher course on it again 🤗🤗🤗it was interesting to see how much I had remembered I will have to search through all my boxes of books to find all my sewing books 🙀🙀🙀 not looking forward to that but I have a few books on Elizabethan clothes but most;y just my collage course books as well so they will be handy to have around again 😹😹😹
Thank you for this wonderful video! I got the 79 turn-of-the-century book and didn't know what to do with all those figures. Now I understand! I just need to get my hands on the rulers now. :)
They are so helpful! Good luck 😁
I watched this video earlier, like several months ago, then got the books and tried doing the Apportioning Ruler. I ended up with some really wonky patterns. Oi, maybe I'll show you my collar. UGH! I was going through your videos again and decided to rewatch this one to refresh my memory. Dang if I didn't discover something I missed the first time abut using the rulers. The Back Waist Length measurement. Boy, howdy, did that ever change the narrative in my head! So now I'm going to try the apportioning method again and see if it will work out better than the last time.
It makes sense to me to add my seam allowance after the apportioning ruler stage because the seam allowance is not apportioned to size, but should be consistent across sizes.
YES!!!!! THANK YOU!🤣🤣🤣
Love the explanation! I just need the title of the second book you mentioned, for the apportioned rulers? I think I have the first book already. Scrambling to the bookshelf to check would make me miss something you say...yeah, I'll check later. Love your channel, so informative.
The voice of fashion has the apportioning rulers i used in the video!
I definitely am someone who just resizes on the computer as a preference. I hadn't heard of the portioning rulers. Interesting.
Hello great video TY I have purchase the authentic Victorian fashion pattern . Can you tell me witch book I need to purchase to get the apportioning ruler please👍🏻 love your video. Love your work .