Sewing a 17th Century Dress from Patterns of Fashion - 1650s Historical Sewing (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 24 фев 2022
- This is Part 1 of of a series about sewing a mid-17th Century ensemble that consists of a petticoat and jacket.
In Part 1 I make a matching petticoat and start creating the pattern for the bodice. Part 2 will show the making of the bodice.
It is based off an original jacket shown in Patterns of Fashion 5 (which is available here: shop.theschoolofhistoricaldre... )
My fabric is a vintage piece from Penny River Costumes: pennyriverc...
The metallic trim is from Renaissance Fabrics: www.renaissancefabrics.net/
Music from epidemicsound.com
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Finally someone's making structured 17th century clothing on youtube! This is such an intimidating era for costuming and it's really helpfull to see someone making it. Can't wait for part 2!
Thank you! Hope to have it out within the week!
17th century might be the most beautiful century in fashion history and music.
This is the most realistic and honest construction video I have seen. Good for you for showing the fitting that is actually required to go from idea to wearable garment. My hats off to you for showing the mockup and fitting process real!
Yes! I have a 1630's dress in mind and you are giving me courage
I feel you with the long torso struggles :3
At least this era is allllll about that long torso. Makes it a bit easier 🙂
I just need to gush at you for a moment. I truly adore your videos. Each one is just like the perfect cup of tea. Seriously you are both approachable and intelligent.
Oh goodness! Thank you so much for the kind compliment. I'm so glad you enjoy my videos!
I love this process!! And the foldover pleating hack is PERFECTION especially for 1950s dresses!
You should use the orange as the lining!@@ the bead print actually matches the skirt on camera and it will help work as calico
I realized in the bodice mockup exactly when the corset would've changed the whole bust position. We've all made this mistake but luckily you caught it before doing something irreversible with your fabric!
What a gorgeous fabric. It looks Japanese to me. Might be kimono fabric. It’s very entertaining and informative to see you work on this 17th century pattern. I’m learning a lot. Thank you!
I love the 17th century! and have been wanting to make this as soon as i saw it it in patterns of fashion. Seventeenth century women's dress patterns book 1 and 2 are absolutely brilliant books, i highly recommend (includes instructions yippee). I love the fabric by the way.
Thank you for sharing the mock up struggles. I shared this video in a corset group I'm in to help those who have fitting issues. I look forward to part 2. LOVE the brocade.
Thank you! I really struggled over whether or not to leave all of that footage in because this video is so long, but I hoped it would be helpful to someone so that is really good to hear!
"I'm doing this all wrong... sh*t!" So relatable
That fabric is amazing! Pinking shears FTW.
Good to hear.that there is somebody out there, who has the same problem with the long upper upperbody. Bought waisted dresses feel like the waist ist under the armpit. I have to add 8 cm between shoulders and waist to make a pattern fit. i realised that when I drew my first bodice block.
Love this! That's how I built a custom wood staircase- working through my fear! And I LOVE it! Looking for help with a period costume bodice early 1600's my Dutch relations may have worn. Thank you for this!
I am so grateful to you for making this project. I absolutely adore 17th century clothing, but I have been so intimidated that it has gotten in the way of starting my sewing habit back up. I've given myself six to eight months to focus on building my wardrobe up with easier wins and get a regular sewing schedule going before I tackle the Stuart smooth-faced stays and weskits of my dreams.
Thank you for showing me that I am not alone in being intimated by this period - and that it still is doable, once I have the habits in place to keep on going!
I've been scared of this period for so long, but it really is do-able!
This was great to watch with how you mock up and changed the pattern. So incredibly helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
so excited to see you do this! just FYI there's a two part V&A Seventeenth Century Women's Dress Patterns and it is magnificent and over the top and just delicious. not a lot of a pieces which is hella frustrating and a lot of them are weird but soooooooooo many detail shots and x rays and detailed explanation of what happens when and the half size reproductions they made as part of the books. and lace patterns and gloves and shoes. it's wild.
I have the 18th century costume in detail books and they are also full of luscious details! I don't think I'll be doing much more 17th century but if I do I'll look for those books!
YES!! Thank you so much for this. I've been putting off starting my 17th century stuff because I was so intimidated. This video is hugely helpful and I look forward to the next part!
May I ask how much yardage you ended up using in your main fabric for this?
Yay! I really hope this is helpful! I ended up using about 7 yards - 5 for the skirt and 2 for the bodice.
@@DamesalaMode Yes! Thank you so much!!
This is fascinating! And that fabric is scrumptious! Brava to you for sticking with this lengthy project and all the fittings!
I can see why this era isn't done more. This is very informative.
It is definitely the most labor intensive outfit I've made!
I'm sure it must have been a slog to do all these mock-ups but you really engineered the hell out of this. Can't wait to see it in that lovely fabric.
Thank you! It really was a slog lol. This is 100% my most engineered dress ever!
Two minutes in and I love this already.
I'm so excited to see this, I love the mid 17th century. As for the bodices, don't quote me but I think I remember I read somewhere that although not as common as the boning just in each individual bodice, there were plenty of instances of a separate stay/corset garment. Also, I'm not sure if it happened in reality but for the bodices with peplums, maybe perhaps they had small hooks and bars on the inside to hook the skirt up to. Again not entirely sure that previous method is historically accurate but it's historically plausible. In any means, I can't wait for part 2 and I certainly hope that this project doesn't deture you from future mid 17th century garments :)
The spoiler is that the skirt was actually 100% fine and didn't bother me in the least when I was wearing it, so I think I was just overthinking! 😁😁😁
@@DamesalaMode that's great to hear!
@@DamesalaMode I was not at all surprised to hear your worries about the weight of the skirt, from my 18th c. experience. I wonder if the weight would have been more of an issue if you'd been using a heavier fabric? Anyway, very happy to hear that it didn't turn out to be an issue. I can't wait to see pt. 2!
When you said "fit Taylor" my brain automatically substituted "tailor Taylor."
It's gorgeous, btw. Great use of that fabric.
😂😂😂
Oh man, that silver/gold shine is something I've been looking for unsuccessfully for AGES 😭
This was truly a magical and special find! You can see why I thought it deserved a really special costume!
I am debating making a version of one of Lady VanTassel's gowns for a black and white ball, and the dress is more 17th century in style, so this has been really helpful. Can't wait to see the next part!
I'm so glad it's been helpful!
This style of dress is also on my todo list, so love seeing someone else go through it! (Except I want back lacing because I hate myself?!?)
I mean back lacing is *vastly* more common and two of my personal friends have done it (among many other costumers!) so it definitely *is* possible...that was just too scary for me to contemplate 😂
Oh boy, seeing your first bodice mockup reminded me so much of the first mockup of my first corset (actually my only corset so far) and how big it was. And I was using an actual commercial pattern (from Laughing Moon), not one drafted from a book. I felt your pain. And I cannot wait for the completion of the bodice.
I was so excited when I saw this upload. I had been busy so I couldn't sit down and watch it right away but I'm glad I got to. I've to agree it's very hard to find anything on these gowns construction. I've been making mine for a while (going on for a few years with way too many breaks lol) I'm just now reworking mine and I'm down to just needing to remake new sleeves and closures. But seeing another costumer recreating this gown is so refreshing and awesome! 🙂
Wow, this is a very exciting process. Your fabric is beautiful and I cannot wait to see how well it does with the bodice. Thanks so much for sharing.
Love your background music! And I just ordered two pairs of your earrings; I have a pair that I wear all of the time and always get compliments on !
Aw thank you! I am so glad you're enjoying them ☺️
Brilliant work.
Thank you!
I'm also going to sew a dress of the 17th century, but for now I'm afraid of the amount of money and time😂 your work inspires me a lot!! It's amazing!
Thank you so much! ❤️
to me it looks like the bodice is done like in the rest of the century, the skirt is 'worn in between the bodice' like you mentioned, but the peplum is just a continuation of the point, so you have the structure underneath like usual but the peplum is just a less structured fashion layer (i don't know how to make it make sense, words are hard!), also it is impossible that the petticoat was just simply tied or hooked on to the bodice for this particular style, like it's done with detachable sleeves and evening gowns of the late victorian era?
Unfortunately, no one has made a video on early 18th century, say 1715-1725.
Although there are bones in the bodice it would still be worn over stays.In the 17thC bodices got shorter and shorter- but the stays would not be so short.
And that isn't a petticoat it is the skirt- the outfit would also have a petticoat in much plainer fabric- supporting the petticoat is why the stays would still reach the waist, despite the skirt being considerably higher than the waist.
cheaper way to get that body is to flat tack the fashion fabric to a calico or drill backing fabric.
Pleating is always one on the stand- so you can see how it will look on- this is definitely how it was done in the period- you can tell because pleats are not absolutely even or identical each side.
When making for theatre or museums- to get an historic pattern to fit a modern body, you make a plain toile to the wearers exact measurements and cut that into the historic seamlines- that way it is historic AND fits the wearer.
All fittings have to be OVER stays.
Wouldn't you still wear stays under the structured bodice? Then the petty coats would still rest on the stays but be under the bodice.
No, the boned bodice was both the stays and the decorative layer.
Hi, just re-watched these videos, because I am contemplating making a gown from this era for an event. Would you be willing to tell me how many yards of material this took? Thanks.
Hi! I can't recall exactly but I think I used about six yards. There are three panels of fabric in the skirt and I think I used about 2 yards for the bodice (and those huge sleeves)
@@DamesalaMode Thank you very much.
Thank you very much.
I am just wondering if there is alcohol in that cup
I needed some lol
Kan du göra clothes from the working class
I'm sorry I'm not sure what this means?
@@DamesalaMode no no Alex channel hur långt hår sorry i can not read your message English not my first language