Wow...The time it took to teach the particulars is fantastic! I'm doing a curbless shower now and it will be my first shower ever. I'm also relieved to here I'm not the only one who had issues with a sloping subfloor. Fortunately for me it slopes slightly to the middle then toward the shower. It's not a bubble breaking over the line but still slightly toward the shower. The actual shower floor was a nightmare under the subfloor to recess with everything but the kitchen sink, and joist sloping to the inner wall.
I really appreciate the step-by-step video actually doing the work. I’ve never heard anyone mention putting sealant between the shower and the main floor on the curbless shower. Makes total sense. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yeah I learned it the hard way, 😆 I am surprised more contractors are not concerned about the capillary water movement issue. Maybe it just hasn’t been a problem for too many people? But it’s a simple fix 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Just found your videos. Great tutorial. As a DIYer, with the 1/4 inch gap around the perimeter. I see that you cleaned out the thiset. Do you grout it before or after tiling the walls? Fill it with the polyurethane caulking? Or leave the void alone for expansion?
You're AWESOME!. Easy to understand--- Thank you so much. So I am fixing to pour a new slab with a zero curb- 5x5 shower. So I plan on recessing the main drain 1.5" center. Then when ready, add the detra with Schluter all set, then tile the floor. So my question to you is " after I install the Schluter walls and waterproof, should I waterproof the bottom wall joint to the concrete slab being that there is no schluter shower pan. thank you so much.
Mapei stone sb sealer will seal porcelain, ceramic, marble, etc….and same with 511 impregnator sealer, if want wet look or “dark” on some material, the enhance and seal is product you want. For me, I prefer regular 511 impregnator sealer for tile, stone, grout and NOT the enhancer….also, once you use that…it’s on till over time “wears off”😉 and gotta reapply. Imo, I seal for customers and don’t leave products behind for clients to do themselves…..as it can be “iffy” and “get phone calls”; so, I take the time and seal it as part of install. If takes 1 extra day, than it does. ✌🏻
Do you a video showing how you set the drain and the grate?? I’m a carpenter and have done linear drains. I’m apprehensive about the drain you have in this video.
36:36 also able to get 511 porous stone/tile sealer and paint/roll on a coat over this tile (or any porous tile) before grouting, and “should” help act as a “release” agent to help clean the grout up….no matter the kind of grout. Just make sure to get on top only or will be waiting 4-8 hrs, or over night before grouting; otherwise, should be good to grout soon as dries and can wait till cures a bit after 1-2 hrs depending on temp/conditions in bathroom etc….(might only need to wait 30 mins, etc). Does it help for cleanup etc…. W/ all products out there they have, miracle solutions 511 my fav and I’d say yeah, does help somewhat, & also seals the stone/tile at same time….which does help, imo
@bathroom remodeling teacher So, the tile b/t shower and floor your using siliconized acrylic sanded grout caulk? Or can you use 100% silicone like Laticrete latasil caulk for that “joint”? Last question, my 3 stage drain sanded grout cracked and “fell in” and so was gonna re-grout around drain, but it iced that there’s some white stuff sticking up that looks like silicone or caulk of some kind; and talked to tile contractor who installed and he said didn’t use any caulk/sealant around drain…..any thoughts of what that stuff is? (Also, the hex tile cuts were butchered and we talking spacing around drain is 1/16 on one side 1/8 on another, and 1/8 to 1/4 on others….look bad and trying to make nice w/o ripping out). Thx for vid, enjoyed and great job, cheers✌🏻
Just found your videos. Great tutorial. As a DIYer, with the 1/4 inch gap around the perimeter. I see that you cleaned out the thin-set . Do you grout it before or after tiling the walls? Fill it with the polyurethane caulking? Or leave the void alone for expansion?
1/4” x 1/4” will work good for that. And like I mentioned in video, be sure to mix your thinset to the medium water ratio for whatever thinset you buy. You want to ensure a good bond to them Thanks 👍
Wow...The time it took to teach the particulars is fantastic! I'm doing a curbless shower now and it will be my first shower ever. I'm also relieved to here I'm not the only one who had issues with a sloping subfloor. Fortunately for me it slopes slightly to the middle then toward the shower. It's not a bubble breaking over the line but still slightly toward the shower. The actual shower floor was a nightmare under the subfloor to recess with everything but the kitchen sink, and joist sloping to the inner wall.
I really appreciate the step-by-step video actually doing the work. I’ve never heard anyone mention putting sealant between the shower and the main floor on the curbless shower. Makes total sense. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yeah I learned it the hard way, 😆
I am surprised more contractors are not concerned about the capillary water movement issue. Maybe it just hasn’t been a problem for too many people? But it’s a simple fix 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher
Just found your videos. Great tutorial. As a DIYer, with the 1/4 inch gap around the perimeter. I see that you cleaned out the thiset. Do you grout it before or after tiling the walls? Fill it with the
polyurethane caulking? Or leave the void alone for expansion?
This is looking great Steve. You’re an awesome teacher. 🤜🏼🤛🏼
You're AWESOME!. Easy to understand--- Thank you so much. So I am fixing to pour a new slab with a zero curb- 5x5 shower. So I plan on recessing the main drain 1.5" center. Then when ready, add the detra with Schluter all set, then tile the floor. So my question to you is " after I install the Schluter walls and waterproof, should I waterproof the bottom wall joint to the concrete slab being that there is no schluter shower pan. thank you so much.
Mapei stone sb sealer will seal porcelain, ceramic, marble, etc….and same with 511 impregnator sealer, if want wet look or “dark” on some material, the enhance and seal is product you want. For me, I prefer regular 511 impregnator sealer for tile, stone, grout and NOT the enhancer….also, once you use that…it’s on till over time “wears off”😉 and gotta reapply.
Imo, I seal for customers and don’t leave products behind for clients to do themselves…..as it can be “iffy” and “get phone calls”; so, I take the time and seal it as part of install. If takes 1 extra day, than it does.
✌🏻
Hi Steve, do you have any videos on how you do your flood tests for curbless showers using the Schluter pan. thanks!
This was very helpful and informative
Thanks!!
Do you a video showing how you set the drain and the grate?? I’m a carpenter and have done linear drains. I’m apprehensive about the drain you have in this video.
Will directional troweling in the opposite direction a good idea for outside vs inside. So water wicking has a stop
36:36 also able to get 511 porous stone/tile sealer and paint/roll on a coat over this tile (or any porous tile) before grouting, and “should” help act as a “release” agent to help clean the grout up….no matter the kind of grout. Just make sure to get on top only or will be waiting 4-8 hrs, or over night before grouting; otherwise, should be good to grout soon as dries and can wait till cures a bit after 1-2 hrs depending on temp/conditions in bathroom etc….(might only need to wait 30 mins, etc).
Does it help for cleanup etc…. W/ all products out there they have, miracle solutions 511 my fav and I’d say yeah, does help somewhat, & also seals the stone/tile at same time….which does help, imo
I've got 2" Marble hexagon mosaic going on a bathroom floor-- should I use epoxy or thinset? Self-leveling compound over 3/4" ply is the substrate.
Those look like great knee pads, helpful for the older do-it-yourselfers, maybe a link in a future video. Thanks!!!
@bathroom remodeling teacher
So, the tile b/t shower and floor your using siliconized acrylic sanded grout caulk? Or can you use 100% silicone like Laticrete latasil caulk for that “joint”?
Last question, my 3 stage drain sanded grout cracked and “fell in” and so was gonna re-grout around drain, but it iced that there’s some white stuff sticking up that looks like silicone or caulk of some kind; and talked to tile contractor who installed and he said didn’t use any caulk/sealant around drain…..any thoughts of what that stuff is? (Also, the hex tile cuts were butchered and we talking spacing around drain is 1/16 on one side 1/8 on another, and 1/8 to 1/4 on others….look bad and trying to make nice w/o ripping out).
Thx for vid, enjoyed and great job, cheers✌🏻
Awesome series...live video of work from start to finish is the best....
Thank you 👍
Just found your videos. Great tutorial. As a DIYer, with the 1/4 inch gap around the perimeter. I see that you cleaned out the thin-set . Do you grout it before or after tiling the walls? Fill it with the
polyurethane caulking? Or leave the void alone for expansion?
Technically could be clear and free of thinset and caulked
Love your work
Is there a problem when installing larger tiles on the floor given the angles created by the slope to drain?
Great job !
Hey Steve what size and type trowel would you recommend I use on 3/8” thick 2x2 mosaic floor tiles
1/4” x 1/4” will work good for that.
And like I mentioned in video, be sure to mix your thinset to the medium water ratio for whatever thinset you buy. You want to ensure a good bond to them
Thanks 👍
👍👍🍺🍺