nice efficient way to sort these - by now I would have been surrounded by rear suspension bits, many thanks for a great system for a regular repair job
dude: I learned a shit-ton from you today. big thanks. I learned to get those brake pads and seal kits when you do the bearing service. again, much thanks. dang, how do I buy you a beer?
You caught this already, I reckon. You got the tool turned-around. You meant to go bearing-to-bearing, right? Thanks for sharing the rebuild on video for us. I needed to learn this repair.
I have one that looks almost identical to yours, rough shape and i know nothing about 4 wheelers. It's around a 90 to 93 model i think, single headlight on top center. Is there anyway to tell what year it was made? And maybe where to get some parts? Great video
Check the frame on the bottom right side if your standing in front of the bike. Take the vin number and type it into a Kawasaki vin decoder and it will tell you everything you need to know. Based on the single front headlight it's a 2wd from 86-93 after that they switched over to the dual front lights like the 4x4 had before and they gave the 4x4 a facelift in 98 so it could be sold beside the Kawasaki prairie 300 and prairie 360.
Not currently. I have 2 of these that will need front bearings at some point but That isn't happening anytime soon. I have one for an Ozark which should be somewhat similar for the bearings.
I have 2 questions , was there a snap ring or anything for the bearing , I can’t seem to get it with this method, maybe I’m too old lol , 2nd question (and genuinely curious) what was the purpose of welding the old bearing to the tube ?
next time put the bearing in the freezer overnight and heat up the axle tube with a heat gun. and keep in touch . i bought a 2002 bayou for hunting. need advice :-)
I have a Kawasaki 4x4-300 to drive shaft for the rear isn't grabbing so there's no power to the back wheels there's a spring in the drive shaft and it should be pushing it up in there why isn't it working the way it's supposed to be
Just leave it off when you put it together then put the arm on wherever it wants to sit when it's all together again. Adjust from there if it takes too much movement to engage the brakes.
@@pfun41 I found some information on the web about it the wear indicator would be placed at the beginning of the scale with the brakes fully relaxed and then the arm should be about 89 to 90° to the cable with the brakes applied
I ended up finding some, thanks. I’ve got a rattle or knocking sound on my stator side of the motor would you happen to know what would cause that? My timing chain is set right and valves are adjusted.
@@RebelOutlaw A bad stator can cause knocking on these. Unplug the voltage regulator and see if it goes away. If not the crank bearings may be worn out. Mine are but didn't show symptoms until after this.
@@diegodelatorre6514 You may have to wire wheel or sand the drums if they are rusty or corroded. The new pads will be bigger than the old ones and a corroded/rusted drum wont fit back over them.
maybe I'm just being a cheap bastard here, but let me ask you something: If there's a lot of brake material on those original pads, why not just sand ..... wait. nevermind. That pad on the other side was grease covered. But if they weren't ... What about sanding the pads as well as the drum and send it? That's a quad, not a fox Mustang. How much do those pads cost? cheap? nevermind. get them and send it. thanks, man.
nice efficient way to sort these - by now I would have been surrounded by rear suspension bits, many thanks for a great system for a regular repair job
dude: I learned a shit-ton from you today. big thanks. I learned to get those brake pads and seal kits when you do the bearing service. again, much thanks. dang, how do I buy you a beer?
Thanks, keep 'em vids coming please.
Crow. ..ca ca fixing to have to do the same thank you sir
Wouldn’t the seal go on the outside after the bearings to protect them from water intrusion?
You caught this already, I reckon. You got the tool turned-around. You meant to go bearing-to-bearing, right? Thanks for sharing the rebuild on video for us. I needed to learn this repair.
shit. I guess not. I gotta ask the same question. Why did you weld the bearing on the pipe? just for hammer surface?
What is the name of that slide hammer gear puller you used/where to buy? Can't seem to find a similar tool like that, thanks!
Its a typical slide hammer with an axle attachment. you can rent them from most parts store.
I have one that looks almost identical to yours, rough shape and i know nothing about 4 wheelers. It's around a 90 to 93 model i think, single headlight on top center. Is there anyway to tell what year it was made? And maybe where to get some parts? Great video
Usually there's a sticker but sometimes it's missing. The vin can also be used. I usually get used parts for ebay unless it's a wear item.
Check the frame on the bottom right side if your standing in front of the bike. Take the vin number and type it into a Kawasaki vin decoder and it will tell you everything you need to know.
Based on the single front headlight it's a 2wd from 86-93 after that they switched over to the dual front lights like the 4x4 had before and they gave the 4x4 a facelift in 98 so it could be sold beside the Kawasaki prairie 300 and prairie 360.
Thanks learned a lot
I have an 86 Bayou. Always starts. Very reliable but it needs front brakes (hydraulic) Do you have a video showing front brake/bearing work?
Not currently. I have 2 of these that will need front bearings at some point but That isn't happening anytime soon. I have one for an Ozark which should be somewhat similar for the bearings.
@@pfun41 Thanks for the reply. Hope you and yours are safe and healthy.
Is a 2001 Kawasaki mule the same??? I'm having trouble pulling the bearing. The slip ring is out . can my axel come out the same way?
Never done it on a mule.
I have 2 questions , was there a snap ring or anything for the bearing , I can’t seem to get it with this method, maybe I’m too old lol , 2nd question (and genuinely curious) what was the purpose of welding the old bearing to the tube ?
I see what he did. He's got the tool turned around. He meant to set that bearing-to-bearing.
Do both sides have the collar?
Would a rubber mallet work just fine for hammering in the bearings.
If you can get enough force on them but don't try to hammer right on the bearing.
next time put the bearing in the freezer overnight and heat up the axle tube with a heat gun. and keep in touch . i bought a 2002 bayou for hunting. need advice :-)
I have a Kawasaki 4x4-300 to drive shaft for the rear isn't grabbing so there's no power to the back wheels there's a spring in the drive shaft and it should be pushing it up in there why isn't it working the way it's supposed to be
How to you index the brake lever and limit tab to the splined shaft.
Just leave it off when you put it together then put the arm on wherever it wants to sit when it's all together again. Adjust from there if it takes too much movement to engage the brakes.
@@pfun41 I found some information on the web about it the wear indicator would be placed at the beginning of the scale with the brakes fully relaxed and then the arm should be about 89 to 90° to the cable with the brakes applied
Was there a sleeve for the right side also
No, just the left.
Where’d you get the bearings?
Ebay or amazon, can't remember.
I ended up finding some, thanks. I’ve got a rattle or knocking sound on my stator side of the motor would you happen to know what would cause that? My timing chain is set right and valves are adjusted.
@@RebelOutlaw A bad stator can cause knocking on these. Unplug the voltage regulator and see if it goes away. If not the crank bearings may be worn out. Mine are but didn't show symptoms until after this.
6:44 That’s what she said.
We’re do you get the brakes
I got some cheap ones off ebay.
pfun41 I was just wondering because I bought some and they ended up not fitting correctly
@@diegodelatorre6514 Did you get ones for a 220? the 300 and 220 seem to share the same basic axle design but different dimensions.
pfun41 got the ones for the 300 but the hub didn’t go all the way in
@@diegodelatorre6514 You may have to wire wheel or sand the drums if they are rusty or corroded. The new pads will be bigger than the old ones and a corroded/rusted drum wont fit back over them.
maybe I'm just being a cheap bastard here, but let me ask you something: If there's a lot of brake material on those original pads, why not just sand ..... wait. nevermind. That pad on the other side was grease covered. But if they weren't ... What about sanding the pads as well as the drum and send it? That's a quad, not a fox Mustang. How much do those pads cost? cheap? nevermind. get them and send it. thanks, man.
Is a 2001 Kawasaki mule the same??? I'm having trouble pulling the bearing. The slip ring is out . can my axel come out the same way?
No idea, never worked on a mule.