Inside the Marshall DSL 40CR - Chassi Pull
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- I know, I know, I know... solid state relay... pscht! lol, anyway if any of you know what sort of bias voltage I'm looking for please let me know. From what I gather 35-40 mV is about right with nominal being at 38 mV.
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I just got my dsl40cr today and I have not heard any relay clicking noises when I power it on. Mine has a date of July 2019 and it's made in Vietnam. My first Marshall amp and oh what a sound! I hope my fellow tenants like the sound as much as I do. Lol!
I just got one. Psionic Audio rated this higher than the Fenders, primarily for build quality and ease of maintenance. Like it so far.
I love my dsl40cr. It is a cheaper pcb Vietnam amp but all the values and such are marked for maintenance or mods. Even mediocre people can do repairs easily if they are careful with the pcd and can solder
I think you are right, that last tube is probably the phase inverter going to the power tubes. Odds are all those micros are just controllers for the switches and for the fake reverb tank circuit that sucks.
Thanks very informative and nice to know I have this amp it’s awesome😜
Johnny Gonzales - yep, I’m loving mine. I lowered the bias to 31 mV and love it even more.
Marshall says biasing voltage should be 35-38 mV but I MUCH prefer the tones I get with it at 30-32 mV
I liked what you said about manufacturers just putting tubes in to glow and look pretty. I've kinda wondered if that's what Blackstar does now. :-)
Can’t say for sure but a previous comment talked about the BStar pedals that have a tube in them... there’s a sticker on the back that says “no serviceable parts inside” ...? Who knows :)
Mine comes with JJ's in V1 and V2 and Chinese tubes in V3 &V4. They are all marked Marshall in red letters.
From your vantage point would you say the ICs are for just the switching or are some contributing to the gain/distortion? I think blackstart had been called out for claiming “all tube” but they are using solid state components like an overdrive pedal to get more gain.
Imo the ICs in the Marshall are for midi controls, channel switching, digital reverb and loop, line out modulation and other things rather than gain. Blackstar has a glaring and obvious transistor pair on their boards, but like you said, it’s really no different than a pedal pushing the front of an amp... it does sound different to me though. I’ve tried like anything and just can’t get comfy with the BStars.
I forget which brand it is, I'll find it and send it to you if I remember, but there was a "tube" rackmount compressor a company produced a while back and it was unveiled that the tube wasn't in the circuit at all. In fact it wasn't even receiving power. There were a couple LED's mounted directly behind it to make it look like it was glowing.
BAHAHAHA, lmao - I love it, I've mentioned before about wondering if such a thing would happen. Tubes are such a draw for audio-philes. They do sound good when playing live, but once something is recorded, you CAN NOT TELL THE DIFFERENCE.
Easy way to tell...? pull the tube in V1 and see if the unit still works.
@@oldguyjammin9732 Yep. Check out Jim Lill's videos on how much room tone matters. It doesn't. Once you put a mic in front of it everything changes. Still fun and nostalgic to play through a loud tube amp though!
I think companies are making amps too complicated. And it seems to me they have too many features. But if they never broke down it wouldn't be a problem.
Yep, the circuit boards in Blackstar and Marshalls look more like mother boards out of computers... no way I’m fixing one of those. The Wangs, Jet City, Egnater and a few others still use large individual components.
I think the time has already come when the tubes are just in there to look pretty and command a much higher price tag.... i was set on saving for a DSL40CR, recently i got to hear one of the 20 watt ones, and i think i will keep my current amp a bit longer.... maybe ill get a Crush 35RT, as it is like $250 and has an effects loop...and sounds pretty darn good for that price....
Someday I might buy an expensive amp, but i think that day is a long ways off, and possibly might never come... right now i have my eye on the Headrush Pedalboard, run into a powered speaker or FRFR....this would be a simple setup and have few cables, but lots of sound possibilites....
Have YOU played around with any of the Headrush or Helix stuff af all?
Isaiah Furrow - hey man, nope - I have not played through a Helix or Axe or Headrush lately but in the past I’ve played through some Zoom stuff that was pretty cool. Zoom (and probably others) have pedal boards that you can use with an amp OR by themselves with headphones, COOL! I think “intended use” has a lot to do with your purchase. Live and Loud = Tubes, otherwise....? I wouldn’t steer anyone away from the DSL40CR, very versatile. You might consider a used Tweaker 15 head from Reverb...? Good luck \m/
@@oldguyjammin9732 thanks!
I have 3 kids, 2 of them are really interested in music. We have a keyboard, acoustics(2), a Mini Strat, and a small-ish Marshall .... MG30CFX. I'm looking to get a second electric, LP/humbucker style guitar, and a second amp.
Thinking the DSL40CR will be something to aspire to down the road... for now I'm thinking mayne an Orange Crush 35RT, as its affordable, has FX loop, and should be a good compliment next to our Marshall...
But I'm also thinking on the reduced output mode, the DSL would be nice....might come down to available funds when the time comes....
We live in the country, so being too loud isnt a huge concern, short of a half stack....lol
I tried a RCA short gray plate in V1 and wound up putting the stock JJ back in as it sounded better overall.
I haven't pulled the chassis yet to check the plate voltage on the el34's. What is the plate voltage on yours? And why do you like the bias voltage set colder? Thanks for all your videos! Very informative.
I haven’t checked plate voltages, just the bias. The reason I set it lower is to reduce a bit of the ‘sizzle’ that is inherent to that Marshall tone, it’s just a matter of tone preference. Some amp guys set the bias by sound rather than voltage. Even when the bias is set ‘hot’ the only bad thing that happens is more frequent power tube replacements.
@@oldguyjammin9732 thanks for explaining to me the reasons why you bias it lower.
I'm trying to change a capacitor and two resistors on mine. Do you have any tips on how to access the bottom of the circuit board? Do I need to unplug it all first? I need to replace R141, R148, and C139. I'm new to this but it doesn't look possible without removing the entire circuit board to access to the bottom. Is that correct?
I've unscrewed everything and unplugged the cables and now I'm thinking I need to desolder the smaller tubes to remove the board. I can't see any other way because the tubes are in the way from it easily coming out.
Yep, you are correct and it’s a real pain in the rear! Sometimes you can just resolder from the top. Heat the component leg while gently prying up under the resistor until you free up one end and then work on the other until the resistor/cap is freed up… OR and sometimes even easier, solder the new resister right over the top of the old one (new legs to old legs) and then with nippy cutters, cut out the old component - piece of cake. If the C139 is axial you can do the same thing, if it’s got both legs sticking out the bottom, you’ll have to get under the board. Come back with questions if you don’t get what I’m saying, soldering across the old and then cutting them out is the way to go.
@@oldguyjammin9732 Thanks for the reply! I think I will pull out the preamp tubes and replace them just to experiment with some different tones. I think C139 is radial and I'm having one heck of a time finding a replacement. Any idea where I can get one? Thanks!
@@RaysLongoria - Mouser Electronics should have it. Good luck.
@@oldguyjammin9732 Thanks! I think I found what I needed on Digikey. We'll see when it arrives.
I prefer the much better build quality of the previous 40C . It has hand wired chassis mounted power tube sockets . This 40CR is all board tube sockets .. yuk cheap and problematic . Yes I own the older C and am very happy with it . Would not want the CR at all .
That's cool and I get where you're coming from, I LOVED the classic gain channel on the original DSL but the Ultra channel I found really brittle. I like the changes, and even though the reverb is almost non existent, it's enough :) fit and finish aside I really appreciate the Ultra Gain channel on the new DSL.
Hello just curious what you think about the quality of the circuit board and solder joints? Is the amp still working alright for you, not any problems or strange noises? Thanks good video, appreciate your time and feedback.
ruby kaufman - there’s a lot going on in there but it looks good to me. I believe it’s the same board used in the 100 watt head but so far SO GOOD. I play several times a week if not everyday and it’s still working great. No strange noises, no issues at all. The best circuit boards I’ve seen are in the Egnater amps. If it crapped out tomorrow I would find a way to get another, it’s versatile and full of great ‘marshall’ tones.
I was thinking of purchasing another new Marshall valve amp but I have seen so many reviews of all kinds of recent Marshall amps, .......... And have read of a lot of problems but many of them, WHY ? I have been gigging two 79 Marshall master vol mk 2 2x12 combos since 1980 without one hiccup ! So why are the more recent Marshall amps so unreliable !! ...... It just shouldn't happen ! It seems that it is simply bread and butter money for the manufacturers, valves connected to PCB boards instead of proper valve mountings ? Noooooo, let them keep their new amps and keep your money safely in your pocket.
we're already there....Blackstar HT pedals that had a tube in them and claimed it was literally a tube pedal but in all actuality the tube was just for looks.
Oh my gosh, seriously? I think I have one, it’s an “all in one” modulation pedal about the size of two standard pedals and has a tube smack-dab in the middle, lol. Interesting...
@@oldguyjammin9732 Yeah it literally said in the instruction manual to not open the tube compartment because there's no serviceable parts lol. I believe they stopped making them but I could be wrong.
@@AvnerRosenstein-ULTRA-LXV - ha ha that’s awesome. You are correct, they have been out of production for some time. Thanks for the cool info \m/
@@oldguyjammin9732 No problemo! You have some great vids too btw. I really enjoyed your biasing video for this same amp although Plate voltage should be mentioned. In mine the plate voltage is 428 volts which means you will not get the full potential unless it's biased to 40.8mv. For me personally anything under this was stale and had no character.
From watching your videos I think you say in a comment that you biased it to 32-33mv which is super low considering the amount of plate voltage in this amp is already somewhat low. I biased mine and played for about 2 weeks between 28mv, 30mv, 32mv, 33mv, 36mv and 38mv until I finally found that it's most enjoyable for me at the bias for 70% dissipation which is 40mv. It's really up to the person's taste though so lot of great info in your videos...plate voltage does matter though lol.
I'm having a problem pulling the chassis from my dsl40cr. Can you give me any tips? I unscrewed the four screws on the top of the amp. I think maybe I'm missing something? Thanks for any help you can give.
Nope, you’re good. The chassi gets stuck during assembly and sitting in hot trucks, etc. you can hang on to the transformers and keep working it. I find it easier if I put the combo on its side. You could even work a screw driver gently around the backside of the chassi but I’ve never had to do that. It’s just stuck to the tolex.
@@oldguyjammin9732 - thank you for that info! There's nothing wrong with the amplifier and I should probably just leave well enough alone, but I wanted to make sure that the transformers were not loose and that the ground connections were tight.
Different board to previous gen dsl40c.... El34 are handwired and tube sockets are not soldered into the main PCB..... The whole board it's rearranged.... Prefer previous design amid it's flaws
I have to admit I was disappointed in the new classic gain red, the previous classic gain red was SO good, wish it had been carried over to the new CR. But I do like the ultra gain channel on the CR much better... trade off I guess. Maybe we should just have both, ha ha.
I have a question , off topic but important to me .
When u power on ur dsl does it make a clicking sound like 3 or 4 clicks fast and close together .
I bought 1 used and it makes tht sound when it comes on . Not heard another 1 power on . Asking because it stopped making sound . It will power on with only the red lite on and thts all . Also no clicking iv had it over a year without a bobble . Wanting to know about tht clicking tho . If thts it i just gotta know what it is , find n replace it . Lol They do sound good . Thks for ur time .
Hey Tom Foolery! Yep, mine had a series of quick clicks every time I turned it on. There are a few little magnetic relays on the board that activate when the amp is powered up... why it would stop is a complete mystery. I will say that Marshall is really good about answering the phone, try giving them a call. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Definitely a help , im gona call marshall in a bit . thks
Why do you want to put electro-harmonix tubes in V1 and V2 of your amp?
YES! Great amp - I do have to confess though that I finally sold the 40W and replaced it with the 20W and I’m really happy I did. I could never really run the 40 in its sweet spot, but ‘no problem’ with the 20. I ran EH tubes because they were supposed to have a bit more midrange in their tone, that’s all. Anymore I use JJs for any tube changes.
@@oldguyjammin9732 thanks for the info and the quick reply!
Does this amp not have volume pots on it I figured you would be able to see them from top
yep, a gain and volume for each channel.
Thank you I actually had to send this amp back for repairs last year cuse the switch would not change to low power mode and the y just replaced the whole pcb bored and it was good to go
Hi. Do you know if I can change my DSL40CR from 220v to 110v without using a transformer?
On most amps there is a switch on the back panel that allows you to switch between 110 and 220. It should already be set up, if not there should be the necessary wires already coming from your transformer to make the change but I’d have NO IDEA how. Good luck though!
@@oldguyjammin9732 No switch, but thank you!
@@HLeal - wow, interesting. I did a bit of searching around and you seem to have one heck of a problem, lol. A few forums suggested that TheTubeAmpDoctor site could offer up schematics that show which leads of your current transformer you could use to make the conversion, but... the other and perhaps more practical piece of advice was to use a stand alone voltage converter which seems pretty easy and can be had for under $50. Good luck Leal
Hello! good afternoon !! I wonder if you have the scheme to share it, I don’t find it, to compare it with dsl 40c to see the improvements. Thank you so much!!!
Cristian Tubio - I’d like to be able to help you out but I don’t have it either. Might take a few more years before it surfaces.
Oldguyjammin ohhh it’s ok, we’ll wait for it haha, thank you so much for you answer.
Cristian Tubio - found this, it may help. I believe the dsl100 board is the same as the dsl40 Cr. While looking around I noticed sockets for more tubes and 100 markings...?
www.diyaudio.com/forums/instruments-and-amps/331307-marshall-dsl40cr-farting.html
Cruise the thread for some pdf links.
Oldguyjammin oh thank you!! I’ll compare to the dsl40 scheme to see if i could find some differences. I really don’t like some fizzy kind stuff 😞 . Some people say that the new one is better at all
Cristian Tubio - I hear you on the fizz... hate it! I’ve played both and while the classic gain RED voicing on the 40C absolutely killed the overall sound and pedal switching options on the 40CR are much better (imo) the trick is to keep the master up at around 2 O’Clock and the preamp volumes at about noon which relates to about 97 dB in the room which is pretty loud. If the master falls below 12 O’Clock it really thins out and becomes fizzy. Cranked up it sounds absolutely great and the EQ comes into play more, I can start lowering the bass and make credible changes with the mids and presence, etc. And there’s always the idea of putting a Creamback in to help boost the mids too...?
I have the same amp And my low power mode is not working no sound but the high power mode works I’ve already replaced all my tubes hopeing it would fix it but did not do you have eney ideas what might be wrong
Not really other than an open somewhere on the “low side” of that switch. Could be the switch itself, lose wire, etc. Really hard to diagnose an issue with back and forth chatter. No sound at all? Or can you still hear a slight his as if the amp is in standby?
@@oldguyjammin9732 when I start it I leave it on for about 5 minutes then switch it to what ever mode I want and when I went to the low mode the 20 watt it’s completely dead but then when I switch to 40 it’s fine
@@jboy8735 - I’d first suspect the actual switch. It’s the easiest thing to check. You’ll need a resistance meter and a bit of know-how. You’ll have to pull the chassi, but you may also have an internal fuse that protects the low power mode from a surge. I’m sure you’ve checked the forums and internet for answers but it wouldn’t hurt to call Marshall directly, I’ve found them very helpful.
@@oldguyjammin9732 awesome thank you I’m still under warranty so I will send it in im glad you did a video on the bias part of the amp with out your video I would have never known how to do that I appreciate that
Which one is the big ceramic resistor to swap in for the CHOKE? Thanks
Palantine9131 - no idea...? But a ‘choke’ is usually an inductor rather than resistor. Inductors deal with inductance and impedance rather than resistance so swapping one for another could be problematic I would think.
@@oldguyjammin9732 I received the info straight from the Marshall Tech here in ITALY
Resistor is marked R135, 220 ohm, 5W
Well very cool. So what exactly are we swapping out and why? What's our MOD?
@@oldguyjammin7485 www.aikenamps.com/index.php/chokes-explained
@@Palantine9131 Maybe you figuered out but you seeing it at 2:45
Can this amp be modded to run on 5881 tubes?
A good tech can mod just about anything. Best to call Marshall. In my experience 5881s and 6L6s are very compatible, other than that, if the manufacturer doesn't suggest trying any octal type tube (like Egnater) I wouldn't. Check the Gearpage.
@@oldguyjammin9732 Marshall doesn't give much info. // Thank you for your email regarding your question, the DSL40CR is not set up circuit wise to take 5881 valves. //
Four fast fuses for weak points perhaps
That’s what I thought!?!? Why so many “sensitive” areas? Hmmm...
Wow so this is not a "pure" tube circuit
Peter Schaefer - not hardly, LOTS of ICs in this bad boy. Sounds great though, definitely a keeper.
The signal path is tube. The reverb is digital.
It's still have the same crappy build.
Guess I'll just go with ceriatone soy then.
I dunno man, hundreds of hours and powered up several times a week and never an issue with any of my Marshalls. They seem to be quite reliable. Does it compare with my Engl, no... but it hasn’t failed either.
All the tubes being pcb mounted is massively disappointing
The Amp is Vietnamese junk, Way more duds then there are good units being sold, don't believe it just do a search for failure issues google the reviews at the marshal forum and across the internet, we all agree that it sounds wonderful but reliability is less then 75% success rate and for an 800 dollar amp that's Hit and Miss BS!
Glad I got a good one! Still working great and if it failed tomorrow I’d figure a way to get another- really love it.
What is the manufacture date on your amp? I'm glad to hear yours's is a good one and that you enjoy it.
@@oldguyjammin9732 I feel the same way about my dsl40cr. First Marshall amp and it sounds good with all of my guitars
A lot of digital stuff inside, yet branded as "all tube amplifier". Bullshit. At least Orange amps are honest and all tube.
The reverb is digital. The signal path is all tube. There is a MIDI input to allow access to all four channels. That's about it.