The only video I've found yet, that gives detailed tips on Trex stringer and tread installation. Thank you!!! Although Trex recommends 9 or 12 inch stringer spacing, depending on the Trex product used. (Personal Notes: 2:17 & 10:11 ...9 3/4" run for composite stairs. 10:31 ...Consider step from ground. 27:27 ...tread install sequence.)
Should NEVER overcut the rise and run intersection, it causes a failure point. Seen stairs broken at that point. But great to see young guys knowledgable like this. Need to get young people back in the trades!
@@andrewfreeman88 Maybe so, but in the case of an inspection, it might mean building them over again. Better to just not over cut the corners on stringers.
2x12 stringers fellas. After the rise and tread cut you should always have 5"+ left in your stringer. For a better overall appearance deduct 3/4" from the top tread cut only. Install all riser boards and push the treads up to the riser board. Riser boards typically don't set on top of tread boards. Also, remove 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 from the bottom front of the middle stringer and place a treated 2x4 flat on the concrete to run the inside width from the outside stringers. nail through outside stingers, toenail middle stringer, and secure to concrete with 2 wedge anchors. Oh, and don't overcut your riser/tread intersection. Finish the cut with a sawzall. Free tips from a professional carpenter of 40 years.
Such a smart guy why no comment about stair stringers being 12inches on center instead of 16on center any good composition deck builder knows that.... Quit trying to act like a smart guy... It usually points out what u don't Kno.... doing something wrong for 40 yrs doesn't make it right...
Great video, really great to watch these young lads, took me back...way back lol. PS chaps, vertical is plumb and don't over cut your stringers (I saw you had a jig saw you could of used to finish the cut, it would also eliminate the coping saw), its a bad habit, although here not the end of the world ;) All said and done that was therapy to watch lol.
If you read the specs for all the composites I've seen, they say 12" max gap for stringers. 16" is ok for floor joist but not sufficient for stairs. Other than that, it is a very helpful video
Good video, the only thing that I would have done different is the 3 1/2” or 4” boards that you put on the inside of the stringers I would’ve put them on the outside, and cut the step boards longer to compensate for the overhang needed,that way it would have hidden the outside view of the stringer.
Just Curious why did you cut past the corners on the stringers? Doesn't that just weekend the string regardless of the length of the stringer. Sorry had to ask great video keep up the good work.
Dave S probably I'd guess it's because he's using a right handed saw which makes it difficult to see what you're doing. For safety the blade is away from your body but about impossible for me to use effectively.
@@ruckusbird8832 right hand or left handed saw dont matter. Ive got a right handed saw an can watch where my blade is at. An stop right before that corner. Then finish the cut with a jig saw which is the proper way to cut the stringers. Leaves a nice clean cut. Ive seen alot of cuts the way these guys are cutting stringers. An yes it does an can weaken the stringer. You want to keep as much as the board as possible because those are your main supports for the steps.
Please keep your fingers away from the wood when shooting a nail. I have seen a nail follow the grain and curl right into a hand. They don't always go in straight. And I agree, you shouldn't over cut the stringer like that. Whoever you learned that from cut corners, rather than doing it right and makes the piece weaker. I remember when I was doing construction as a young man. Its great to have all that energy, now just concentrate on the quality and you will be unstoppable.
Very informational , good to see younger guys at work , few things with these videos ,one everyonr does things a bit different so you are going to have people tell you how to do this or that. There are a hundred different ways to kill a cat , now as for saftey , work boots fellas work boots nails and boards dont care about your feet, and when you step on a nail or drop a board on your foot ,your going to care. Also use a push stick on the table saw ,I cant tell you how many guys I've seen hurt on jobs from improper use of table saws. Remember you guys are sharing a video how to and safety should come first!
Those stairs are bearing on the deck by what, 1- 1/2"? undersized stringers, PT risers, pre primed wood trim, no screws and plugs. If you're doing trex decking, use all hidden fasteners and PVC trim. Those post sleeves were absolutely not Trex brand. they were cheap PVC Veranda or Fiberon. Trex specs call for no more than 12" OC for stringers. Shouldn't be making these videos and helping homeowners do things wrong.
Hey great video guys should definitely invest in some video clip it so you could use a stationary work and both in the video but I watch this video to get the skirt board for some tracks decking I think it’s from Shawnee your stringer cuts I can pretty much figure it out
Where is part 2? Wondering why you put that trim board on the inside of the stringers rather than the outside, which I think would make for a cleaner appearance. Thinking it might have something to do with the rail ballusters, was hoping part 2 would make it clear.
It's for a cleaner look...this particular builder paints the stringer white with exterior semi-gloss. It doesn't have anything to do with the vinyl rail system.
I I noticed that you did not show adding any fastening of the post or the stringer to the concrete surface... I find that notching the stringer allowing for a 2 by 4 to be fastened to the surface... this will keep the stringer from walking away from the attaching wall... in these steps, it will keep stress off of the siding boards... I also add a 2 by 4 to each stringer at the side bottom for greater support... since someone else noted the 2 by 12 verses the 2 by 10 on the stringers I will not address this any further..
residential code is 36in all staircases and hallways minimum. bottom line is post should be shaved to be up to the code. or moved. i had to do mamba-jumba in my house with the post. ended up welding 10mm plate on top of metal post and moved him 50mm away to comply 36in requirement.
I was taught that Level is Horizontal and Plum is vertical. You were instructing the helper to hold the 4x4 post level. I get what you meant but if your instructing use the correct words. Also why are you using Pressure treated risers when you are making a composite deck and stairs? Good idea to install the back treads first to give room to screw.
PopulationParallax All composite decking that I’ve looked at suggests a maximum of 16 inch on center if perpendicular to the joist for residential installations and 12 inch on center for commercial installations (I guess because they expect heavier foot traffic).
2nd visit, more entertaining than the first!! After it's all said and done it doesn't meet the 12" O/C required for composite (garbage) deck material??
why didn't you allow for your backers on your run if you would have worked it out you wouldn't have to cut your backers and also it's easier to install risers first I wondered if you shortened the top of stringer before you installed and also it's easier to notch the centre stringer then your left with some throat to fix rather than cutting it all off there's no structure there.
timcat100 Actually some brands of composite decking will not properly accept a cortex screw and leave a nice round flush hole like let's say a piece of white Azek will. Some decking will mushroom up on the sides of the holes leaving a raised lip that looks terrible and very noticeable. We usually pre drill a pilot hole then drill another hole with another bit matching the size of cortex plug with a collar stop on the bit to accept the plug. We always use the supplied screw bit with the felt collar that comes with the deck screws. When ever there isn't an issue with mushrooming we just let the cortex screw do what's it's designed to do with the supplied fastening bit then plug the hole with a cortex plug.
@@mafongojr164 It's a Trex issue. While 16 is usually good, Trex will void your warranty unless you do 12". I guess they need to pay their lawyers . . .
@@murphythemenace3307 the plan for my stairs! The 45 triangle end just seems like more work and not enough support so the boarder will bee a cleaner option for me.
So much wrong advice given in this video. Never overcut the notches, stringers not made from stout enough material. And yes plumb is used when talking vertical, level when horozontal. Shouldn't do an instructional video with misinformation.
This video is great for basics, but before you start a project like this, look for newer videos and familiarize yourself with updated codes for stairs. Lots of things going on in this video that just won't fly these days.
hate to break it to ya, but those stringers are non code compliant. pretty sure i wasn't the first person to pick that up. those stringers will deflect and those steps will feel like they're made of plexi-wood from the bouncing. gotta cut 2x12s fellas. otherwise, not bad. i just don't like the sneakers and shorts to a job site.
Rise total÷7 = number of risers plus fraction Total rise÷ # risers= rise height (eg. 7.23) .23×16= 4. So 4/16= 1/4 7 1/4 in each riser 18-7 1/4= 11 3/4 tread
Most builders mount steps 1step down from top, but these young men made several mistakes and took a few shortcuts I wouldn’t recommend. Check out the Critical Connections vids on how to build deck steps properly
I quit watching when you over cut the rise and run!!!! And on all composite I always go 12" on center on stairs and even joists! Otherwise it's sagging in a year when sun hits it!!!
Clearly these young guys have some experience to gain before doing more tutorials. The comments below highlight some of the problems. As for the quality of the video, again more experience is needed. One criticism I have is the excessive emphasis on shooting the speakers face instead of the work. Viewers are here not to see you but rather to see the actual work.
These guys are completely wrong and misinformed. Anyone installing stairs like they are, will be called back to fix the sagging. It’s apparent they’re new at this.
Project Manager for step construction?? Eyes are the window to the soul and no one should talk to me through sunglasses. Seems like a Project Manager could afford proper working footwear! A coping saw for building stringers??? NICE TRY!!
bad video…. camera man films the worker more then focusing on the project itself...the worker must like to see himself on film... just build the steps we don't care what you look like. Must be why the views are so old.
We call these type of track homes frosted covered turds , cheaply built cheap material ,and these young guys need to learn detail ,hence over cutting ,putting frosting on the turd to make it look nice ,in 10-15 years that shit composite and crap cardboard trim and stairs will need to be replaced ,weather will destroy. That cheap material,seen many time s
Plastic lasts a long time, smart trim will also last a long time if painted. This particular install was a little lacking but when done properly they wont have issues
@@bolerdweller ya well install a ton of trex and others and in az where i live the sun and dry air. Destroys it in a few years with 110 118 degree weather has be taken up and replaced with something else depends where ya live
@@rickdougherty8058 it seems to be ok up hear in Canada. I do mostly cedar, personal choice, but the trex does ok here. We get to about 104 degrees Fahrenheit here in the summer but we also have to deal with winter as well. Cedar is a great choice in a lot of areas here if you're ok with maintenance, the heat here bakes the oil out of it so it needs to be protected more to fend off the winters though
@@bolerdweller ya im sure its ok there ya hot but also humidity.. Arizona very high altitude 5000 ft 5 -10 percent humidity at best drys everything to crap. But am from vermont originally so wood and composite s do better there then AZ ..and yes i would prefer ceder also
The only video I've found yet, that gives detailed tips on Trex stringer and tread installation. Thank you!!! Although Trex recommends 9 or 12 inch stringer spacing, depending on the Trex product used. (Personal Notes: 2:17 & 10:11 ...9 3/4" run for composite stairs. 10:31 ...Consider step from ground. 27:27 ...tread install sequence.)
According to my Trex instructions maximum spacing on stingers is 9 inches or 12 inches. Not 16 inches.
Amazing how stair installations have improved over the years since then.
Should NEVER overcut the rise and run intersection, it causes a failure point. Seen stairs broken at that point. But great to see young guys knowledgable like this. Need to get young people back in the trades!
yep use a jig saw for the last part of the cut .
Needs to be a minimum of 5" of solid wood on the stringer. Over cutting like they did makes it less than 5".
@@Forlornguild 1/4 of inch will not compromise the staircase
@@andrewfreeman88 Maybe so, but in the case of an inspection, it might mean building them over again. Better to just not over cut the corners on stringers.
@@Forlornguild I agree, better to hackzall the last bit.
Great job guys! It's wonderful to see young folks doing carpentry work. Good for you!
2x12 stringers fellas. After the rise and tread cut you should always have 5"+ left in your stringer. For a better overall appearance deduct 3/4" from the top tread cut only. Install all riser boards and push the treads up to the riser board. Riser boards typically don't set on top of tread boards. Also, remove 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 from the bottom front of the middle stringer and place a treated 2x4 flat on the concrete to run the inside width from the outside stringers. nail through outside stingers, toenail middle stringer, and secure to concrete with 2 wedge anchors. Oh, and don't overcut your riser/tread intersection. Finish the cut with a sawzall. Free tips from a professional carpenter of 40 years.
Such a smart guy why no comment about stair stringers being 12inches on center instead of 16on center any good composition deck builder knows that.... Quit trying to act like a smart guy... It usually points out what u don't Kno.... doing something wrong for 40 yrs doesn't make it right...
I thought his points were good. Agree not good to overcut the rise run with skill saw, weakens the stringer.
@@timgroce1877 16 is the max anything less is better! But I don't disagree with 40 years!
Wow guys, I had no idea steps were that complicated. Good video! I learned alot
Code for stair width is 36" min. When cutting stringers, max over cut @ tred/riser is 3/8" max.
An excellent video ... Thank you!
You explain everything perfectly !
Very detailed thanks young whipper snapper
Great video, really great to watch these young lads, took me back...way back lol. PS chaps, vertical is plumb and don't over cut your stringers (I saw you had a jig saw you could of used to finish the cut, it would also eliminate the coping saw), its a bad habit, although here not the end of the world ;) All said and done that was therapy to watch lol.
Helped me with my porch, good instruction. Thank you!
Perhaps rubber roofing between PT and contact. Also end sides to make it strong and last looks better. Dam nice job.
If you read the specs for all the composites I've seen, they say 12" max gap for stringers. 16" is ok for floor joist but not sufficient for stairs. Other than that, it is a very helpful video
Some brands/types call for no more than 9"
Good video, the only thing that I would have done different is the 3 1/2” or 4” boards that you put on the inside of the stringers I would’ve put them on the outside, and cut the step boards longer to compensate for the overhang needed,that way it would have hidden the outside view of the stringer.
Cool shades man!!!
Your bags were made to hold your ruler,screws,tape etc. looking for your tools wastes time.
If your posts are level then they are parallel to a horizontal plane, the term is plumb for a vertical framing member.
Just Curious why did you cut past the corners on the stringers? Doesn't that just weekend the string regardless of the length of the stringer. Sorry had to ask great video keep up the good work.
Dave S probably I'd guess it's because he's using a right handed saw which makes it difficult to see what you're doing. For safety the blade is away from your body but about impossible for me to use effectively.
Do main cut with circular saw but stop short, finish end cut with a jig saw.
@@ruckusbird8832 right hand or left handed saw dont matter. Ive got a right handed saw an can watch where my blade is at. An stop right before that corner. Then finish the cut with a jig saw which is the proper way to cut the stringers. Leaves a nice clean cut. Ive seen alot of cuts the way these guys are cutting stringers. An yes it does an can weaken the stringer. You want to keep as much as the board as possible because those are your main supports for the steps.
Please keep your fingers away from the wood when shooting a nail. I have seen a nail follow the grain and curl right into a hand. They don't always go in straight. And I agree, you shouldn't over cut the stringer like that. Whoever you learned that from cut corners, rather than doing it right and makes the piece weaker. I remember when I was doing construction as a young man. Its great to have all that energy, now just concentrate on the quality and you will be unstoppable.
Try using a left handed saw and you'll see the line much beter and get cuts faster and better. I can't do siht with a right handed saw.
Very informational , good to see younger guys at work , few things with these videos ,one everyonr does things a bit different so you are going to have people tell you how to do this or that. There are a hundred different ways to kill a cat , now as for saftey , work boots fellas work boots nails and boards dont care about your feet, and when you step on a nail or drop a board on your foot ,your going to care. Also use a push stick on the table saw ,I cant tell you how many guys I've seen hurt on jobs from improper use of table saws. Remember you guys are sharing a video how to and safety should come first!
Why didn't you use Trex boards for the risers? I would have installed the Meriteck so it covers the Construction Lumber Stringer.
Always remember to do the job according to manufacturers specs. If you don't, bye, bye warranty.
Is this set of steps with a kick plate at the back ?
Those stairs are bearing on the deck by what, 1- 1/2"? undersized stringers, PT risers, pre primed wood trim, no screws and plugs. If you're doing trex decking, use all hidden fasteners and PVC trim. Those post sleeves were absolutely not Trex brand. they were cheap PVC Veranda or Fiberon. Trex specs call for no more than 12" OC for stringers. Shouldn't be making these videos and helping homeowners do things wrong.
Hey great video guys should definitely invest in some video clip it so you could use a stationary work and both in the video but I watch this video to get the skirt board for some tracks decking I think it’s from Shawnee your stringer cuts I can pretty much figure it out
You should use treated lumber for contact with cement
Ohh man guys talk to match sh.. Good job guys Exelent work
Where is part 2? Wondering why you put that trim board on the inside of the stringers rather than the outside, which I think would make for a cleaner appearance. Thinking it might have something to do with the rail ballusters, was hoping part 2 would make it clear.
It's for a cleaner look...this particular builder paints the stringer white with exterior semi-gloss. It doesn't have anything to do with the vinyl rail system.
Thanks for the reply!
I I noticed that you did not show adding any fastening of the post or the stringer to the concrete surface... I find that notching the stringer allowing for a 2 by 4 to be fastened to the surface... this will keep the stringer from walking away from the attaching wall... in these steps, it will keep stress off of the siding boards... I also add a 2 by 4 to each stringer at the side bottom for greater support... since someone else noted the 2 by 12 verses the 2 by 10 on the stringers I will not address this any further..
Wood on bare cement. Not a good idea. Cement absorbs water and the wood will absorb the water from the cement.
what size nails did you use?
can you also use screws for those stairs
For which part?
Ya u can use screws.. its way more ideal.. it lowers the risk of wasting material.. and you can use plugs to conceal the screw holes
Gotta use Simpson nails for hangers tho
residential code is 36in all staircases and hallways minimum. bottom line is post should be shaved to be up to the code. or moved. i had to do mamba-jumba in my house with the post. ended up welding 10mm plate on top of metal post and moved him 50mm away to comply 36in requirement.
Nice job but one thing its not a good idea to over-cut your stringer, this will weaken them.
Keep up the good work.
I was taught that Level is Horizontal and Plum is vertical. You were instructing the helper to hold the 4x4 post level. I get what you meant but if your instructing use the correct words. Also why are you using Pressure treated risers when you are making a composite deck and stairs? Good idea to install the back treads first to give room to screw.
what would you use for the riser if not PT
Mafongo Jr They make composit risers aswell. Expensive but if youre paying for composit decking why cheap there.
That part killed me. i cringed watching them use PT risers. there is no way they are certified trex installers
Why would the run be 9.75" and not 10" for (2) 5.5" wide boards with a 1" overhang?
Most composite decking requires framing at 12" on center if I'm not mistaken. Those steps must be bouncy...am I wrong about that?
PopulationParallax All composite decking that I’ve looked at suggests a maximum of 16 inch on center if perpendicular to the joist for residential installations and 12 inch on center for commercial installations (I guess because they expect heavier foot traffic).
Installation guides on Trex website call for either 9" or 12" centers for stairs depending on the product used.
12” it’s best
Trex is 9" on center for stair stringers.
2nd visit, more entertaining than the first!! After it's all said and done it doesn't meet the 12" O/C required for composite (garbage) deck material??
Level and plumb are different things my guy!
*Hold your level out 20 feet out while standing 10 foot up, and then plum bob your measuring tape. Got it.*
Lmfaoooo
@@murphythemenace3307 I do this all the time
👍👍
no builders apron, no safety shoes, no earmuffs just two young fellas trying to look cool. real professional
66margood They’re carpenters, relax. You must be one of those old timers wearing a hard hat to rip a 2x4
Plastic pipe in concrete and square steel in pipe with box works very well.
why didn't you allow for your backers on your run if you would have worked it out you wouldn't have to cut your backers and also it's easier to install risers first I wondered if you shortened the top of stringer before you installed and also it's easier to notch the centre stringer then your left with some throat to fix rather than cutting it all off there's no structure there.
Joist hangers?
You should've notched your middle stringer not cut it all off..
No Cortex Plugs?
timcat100 Actually some brands of composite decking will not properly accept a cortex screw and leave a nice round flush hole like let's say a piece of white Azek will. Some decking will mushroom up on the sides of the holes leaving a raised lip that looks terrible and very noticeable. We usually pre drill a pilot hole then drill another hole with another bit matching the size of cortex plug with a collar stop on the bit to accept the plug. We always use the supplied screw bit with the felt collar that comes with the deck screws. When ever there isn't an issue with mushrooming we just let the cortex screw do what's it's designed to do with the supplied fastening bit then plug the hole with a cortex plug.
Nice tools ha
Would also never put my stairs over finish boards .should be part of framimng .not over a trim board .but yes young guy starting to learn
Trex stairs won’t be warranted due to incorrect installation, Trex insists Trex decking be installed 12” on center on stringers!
Is that true Jim? why isn't 16 on center good enough for the deck
16 is good for the deck and 12 for stairs?
@@mafongojr164 It's a Trex issue. While 16 is usually good, Trex will void your warranty unless you do 12". I guess they need to pay their lawyers . . .
8:35 😬😬😬
Man, just do a box hop to get in your house. Cheap, good for you, easy, and no math.
Wonder how long it took these kids to figure all this out
Doesn't matter how long it took. We need more "kids" knowing how to do this work . . . .
why didn't you go with full width on stairs to give yourself a straight run with handrail into posts
No video on RUclips tells you how many stringers to use.
7/11 rise/run ideal
Add. 7+11=18
Where's your handsaw?
35 7/16" ADA calls for 36".
They’re on a mission from God.
You boys know the math talk to someone
A out tool use before you lose a limb..its no joke
Also extremly bad table saw measures my god son saw is running and you let go and walk around.accident waiting to hapoen.
Those exposed screw holes and unfinished cut ends, on the stair treads, is exactly why I'm disappointed in my Trex composite stairs..
They have plugs matching the composite for the screw holes and throw a border on each tread.. problem solved
@@murphythemenace3307 the plan for my stairs! The 45 triangle end just seems like more work and not enough support so the boarder will bee a cleaner option for me.
So much wrong advice given in this video. Never overcut the notches, stringers not made from stout enough material. And yes plumb is used when talking vertical, level when horozontal. Shouldn't do an instructional video with misinformation.
This video is great for basics, but before you start a project like this, look for newer videos and familiarize yourself with updated codes for stairs. Lots of things going on in this video that just won't fly these days.
hate to break it to ya, but those stringers are non code compliant. pretty sure i wasn't the first person to pick that up. those stringers will deflect and those steps will feel like they're made of plexi-wood from the bouncing. gotta cut 2x12s fellas. otherwise, not bad. i just don't like the sneakers and shorts to a job site.
The max for a riser is 7 3/4 not 8” you won’t pass go to the 📚
Rise total÷7 = number of risers plus fraction
Total rise÷ # risers= rise height (eg. 7.23)
.23×16= 4. So 4/16= 1/4
7 1/4 in each riser
18-7 1/4= 11 3/4 tread
I don't think I can cut a stringer any slower
Its just being lazy to over cut and not go get a jig saw and being cheap to not use 2x12,
Yeah you really missed up on the way you mounted them to the house. Should have gone all the way to the top.
Most builders mount steps 1step down from top, but these young men made several mistakes and took a few shortcuts I wouldn’t recommend. Check out the Critical Connections vids on how to build deck steps properly
I quit watching when you over cut the rise and run!!!! And on all composite I always go 12" on center on stairs and even joists! Otherwise it's sagging in a year when sun hits it!!!
Typical new construction garbage built, thanks for showing the world how not to build stairs
So much wrong...you guys need more practice before you try to teach others.
Clearly these young guys have some experience to gain before doing more tutorials. The comments below highlight some of the problems. As for the quality of the video, again more experience is needed. One criticism I have is the excessive emphasis on shooting the speakers face instead of the work. Viewers are here not to see you but rather to see the actual work.
Missed joist tape and sealing cut ends. They are to young to start their careers shabby!!!
Failing video
These guys are completely wrong and misinformed. Anyone installing stairs like they are, will be called back to fix the sagging. It’s apparent they’re new at this.
Worst job I've ever seen
TERRIBLE VID
Project Manager for step construction?? Eyes are the window to the soul and no one should talk to me through sunglasses. Seems like a Project Manager could afford proper working footwear! A coping saw for building stringers??? NICE TRY!!
bad video…. camera man films the worker more then focusing on the project itself...the worker must like to see himself on film... just build the steps we don't care what you look like. Must be why the views are so old.
Bad skills sorry
You are using a Porter Cable saw.... a Skil Saw is a brand name......lol..Generic term is a "circular saw"
We call these type of track homes frosted covered turds , cheaply built cheap material ,and these young guys need to learn detail ,hence over cutting ,putting frosting on the turd to make it look nice ,in 10-15 years that shit composite and crap cardboard trim and stairs will need to be replaced ,weather will destroy. That cheap material,seen many time s
Plastic lasts a long time, smart trim will also last a long time if painted. This particular install was a little lacking but when done properly they wont have issues
@@bolerdweller ya well install a ton of trex and others and in az where i live the sun and dry air. Destroys it in a few years with 110 118 degree weather has be taken up and replaced with something else depends where ya live
@@rickdougherty8058 it seems to be ok up hear in Canada. I do mostly cedar, personal choice, but the trex does ok here. We get to about 104 degrees Fahrenheit here in the summer but we also have to deal with winter as well. Cedar is a great choice in a lot of areas here if you're ok with maintenance, the heat here bakes the oil out of it so it needs to be protected more to fend off the winters though
@@bolerdweller ya im sure its ok there ya hot but also humidity.. Arizona very high altitude 5000 ft 5 -10 percent humidity at best drys everything to crap. But am from vermont originally so wood and composite s do better there then AZ ..and yes i would prefer ceder also