5:25 correction- the air cap that comes with the H&S Ultra is actually 2 parts. You can unscrew the front of it to expose the needle tip for painting and cleaning tip dry. I didn't notice this at the time and my apologies for the mistake.
I'm NOT saying that you are wrong, but, on my Ultra, bought aroud 2012, the air caps 0.2 and 0.4 are definitively NOT two parts. On the H&S spare parts pdf from the official website, those air caps (126753 and 126763) are shown as one piece. At the same time, looking closely at your video, I can see that my Ultra caps are not the same as yours. Those in your video are the ones comming with the 2.0 needles, and the air caps you have are coded by 2 rings for the 0.2 needle and 4 for the 0.4 needle... mine are not coded the same (one have one ring and the other has none) and they cannot be separated in two parts. I then upgraded two the evolution air caps to have two part caps... it really makes life easyer (they have 6 big holes in stead of 3 that makes seeing and cleaning the needle slightly more easyly).
Thank you - I build 1/72 aircraft. I just got the H&S Ultra with .2 & .4 needles and I am getting the Infinity limiter to Frankenstein it for consistent fine control. Total spend was $120 USD for the Ultra and the limiter end piece $60 USD. Out of the box I was able to push properly thinned Vallejo acrylic at 15psi through the .2 needle and do the tiny dots and lines drill which I could never do with my cheap Amazon Master airbrush.
I have used this for two years. Like the simple cleaning and few parts. The bigger cup comes off way to easy, with disaster as follow… Changed my air cap with a evolution which makes it more easy to clean the needle
It was my first airbrush :) Tip dry was a nightmare and buying that extra head was exactly what i did. Switched to Creos range, but I still use it ocassionally with 0.4mm nozzle for thicker paint.
I've run into a few brands that interchange parts. I have a Richpen Apollo that I have had 20 or so years. Ran into a problem with availability of parts for several years. Found out that Iwata needles and nozzles fit. I had heard that both brands were made in the same facility in Japan. Can't swear that's true, but; I took a chance on fit and it worked out well. I also prefer nickel finishes. Some chrome finishes are so slick that it's hard for me to keep a consistent grip. Good video review, you did.
I thought it was funny at :59 when he said there is not a single scratch on it. I was looking right at what looked like a scratch on the handle, although it could have been a highly reflective hair. Also, about Nickel. While it may look better or worse than chrome, it is generally best to avoid nickel in contact surfaces. Prolonged contact with nickel causes contact dermatitis that only worsens with time. Also, nickel allergies can cause allergies to certain foods, like chocolate, soybeans, cashews and clams. If within 72 hours of touching nickel you experience itching, a rash, or a headache, then it might be better to wear gloves when handling nickel. That said, it is _prolonged_ contact, especially while sweating or with otherwise wet skin, that eventually causes the allergy. The most common cause seems to be nickel earrings or other jewelry, which is worn for long periods. If you don't have contact with any other nickel plated items then it would take a long time for this to become an issue, and by a long time, I mean months to years of contact. This is something a hobbyist might not need to worry about, but a professional artist could very well accrue enough time for this to become an issue.
:59 is some fabric reflecting from a microfiber cloth that i use for fingerprints. I've heard about nickel allergies, but I can only speak for myself and never had a problem, short term or long.
Hey there...what a great talent both you and Rob are....I'd be curious as a comparison of Robs' detail brush (HS Evolution with trigger response fix and running the .15 V2 needle and nozzle setup) against the $500 Iwata .15 gun. Of course, a detail paint session will tell a better resultant story. I'll keep my eye out for a vid on these.....hopefully. Nice work man....thanks for all your efforts to teach us your experiences of your Art life...peace
The Ultra trigger has a different design. It is really good and does'nt need any fixes. In fact it is more than good, it is excellent combined to the longer spring of the Evolution / Infinity. This Ultra trigger is the cheapest and by a huge margin the best H&S trigger in my view (not talking about Grafo and Colani that are different designs that don't have a trigger problem). It would be a waste to apply any "fixes" on the Ultra trigger. On the contrary, the Ultra trigger is THE fix, because it can be used as a replacement to the Evolution / Infinity triggers, and it will work even better than the two teflon ring "fix" or the double spring "fix" or the "extended spring fix" that may improve things withour adressing the root problem. Also, on Evolution, for those who whant a very slightly stiffer spring, one can use the Iwata spring for HP-CM B, HP-CM SB, HP-CM C, HP-CM KCP (it is at Iwata's prices...). The Infinity Giraldez and Ultra 2024 have a slightly different design that I heard is really better... but I'm not sure it really fixes the base design flaws (it looks over-engeniered stuff that improves things without tackling the root problem, the opposite of Iwata's simple and classic yet excellent trigger design... sorry I'm badmouthing, I should try the Giraldez first, people seem to really like it). For the Evolution 2024 and Infinity 2024, no one knows yet what triggers they will have...
@@theartworkshop yeah its expensive ,, sry i did not mean to rush u at all , i really wanted your thoughts on that trigger mechanism. i really love how deep to go on the reviews absolutely perfect.
@@theartworkshop I started collecting by buying airbrushes from people who thought the brushes were "broken" but they had just never learned to clean them properly.
Try to buy a Ultra trigger (it is the cheapest H&S triggrer) and put it in the Evolution, it is not the same design and doesn't have the same problem as the Evolution / Infinity (it works fine, is precise and more reactive, particulary when put in a Evolution / Infinity). With this Ultra trigger, the other advantage is that the air valve screw can even be far less tight and the trigger will still come back up to cut the air even after a very slight press (the Evo / Infinity tend to stay stuck). I find it fixes the root of the problem and I don't care about the exagonal needle chuck, but if you do, just replace the spring by an Iwata spring for HP-CM B, HP-CM SB, HP-CM C, HP-CM KCP, it is slightly stiffer (and about 2 mm longer... about the same length difference than 2 or 3 stacked teflon washers of the "fix") and the chuck will wiggle less. And personally, I think that the exagonal chuck is not a problem, the Grafo that also has the same kind of chuck (but a very different triger type) and it does'nt have the Evolution / Infinity problem. If you don't like the Utlra trigger top, you can change it with another one, but keep the other parts of the Utra trigger as they don't have the Evo / Infinity flaw.
5:25 correction- the air cap that comes with the H&S Ultra is actually 2 parts. You can unscrew the front of it to expose the needle tip for painting and cleaning tip dry. I didn't notice this at the time and my apologies for the mistake.
I'm NOT saying that you are wrong, but, on my Ultra, bought aroud 2012, the air caps 0.2 and 0.4 are definitively NOT two parts. On the H&S spare parts pdf from the official website, those air caps (126753 and 126763) are shown as one piece. At the same time, looking closely at your video, I can see that my Ultra caps are not the same as yours. Those in your video are the ones comming with the 2.0 needles, and the air caps you have are coded by 2 rings for the 0.2 needle and 4 for the 0.4 needle... mine are not coded the same (one have one ring and the other has none) and they cannot be separated in two parts. I then upgraded two the evolution air caps to have two part caps... it really makes life easyer (they have 6 big holes in stead of 3 that makes seeing and cleaning the needle slightly more easyly).
Thank you - I build 1/72 aircraft. I just got the H&S Ultra with .2 & .4 needles and I am getting the Infinity limiter to Frankenstein it for consistent fine control. Total spend was $120 USD for the Ultra and the limiter end piece $60 USD. Out of the box I was able to push properly thinned Vallejo acrylic at 15psi through the .2 needle and do the tiny dots and lines drill which I could never do with my cheap Amazon Master airbrush.
I have used this for two years. Like the simple cleaning and few parts. The bigger cup comes off way to easy, with disaster as follow…
Changed my air cap with a evolution which makes it more easy to clean the needle
Hope you will be able to do the 2024 series Ultra en Evolution comparison of these brushes. Seems they solved a lot of their quircks.
It was my first airbrush :) Tip dry was a nightmare and buying that extra head was exactly what i did. Switched to Creos range, but I still use it ocassionally with 0.4mm nozzle for thicker paint.
I bet. Switching over to the infinity or evo air cap is the play
I have found that I have much less of a problem with tip drying since I upgraded to the 2.0 needle.
Changed my nozzle with a evolution nozzle, so much better now, made a huge improvement 👍
My Infinity is the original 2 in 1. I like the nickel finish.
I've run into a few brands that interchange parts. I have a Richpen Apollo that I have had 20 or so years. Ran into a problem with availability of parts for several years. Found out that Iwata needles and nozzles fit. I had heard that both brands were made in the same facility in Japan. Can't swear that's true, but; I took a chance on fit and it worked out well. I also prefer nickel finishes. Some chrome finishes are so slick that it's hard for me to keep a consistent grip. Good video review, you did.
The Dred FX fix is the way to go
100%. It helps a lot!
Got a link please?
ruclips.net/video/IX1n2oCvlMY/видео.html
for the first online buyer the airbrush is mutch smaller as you think ! :) they ar very handi
what do you think about the new ultra that got announced a few weeks ago? im thinking about picking it up as my first airbrush
The needle cap on my Ultra screws off, maybe yours is stuck with some old paint or something? Thanks for the review 👍
you are 100% right! Thank you so much for this correction! It was stuck and I needed pliers to get it off. I'll post a pinned message with this update
58€ on Amazon for the solo model. I bought one, hope it will change my perception on airbrushes after my terrible experience with no-name trash
I thought it was funny at :59 when he said there is not a single scratch on it. I was looking right at what looked like a scratch on the handle, although it could have been a highly reflective hair.
Also, about Nickel. While it may look better or worse than chrome, it is generally best to avoid nickel in contact surfaces. Prolonged contact with nickel causes contact dermatitis that only worsens with time. Also, nickel allergies can cause allergies to certain foods, like chocolate, soybeans, cashews and clams.
If within 72 hours of touching nickel you experience itching, a rash, or a headache, then it might be better to wear gloves when handling nickel.
That said, it is _prolonged_ contact, especially while sweating or with otherwise wet skin, that eventually causes the allergy. The most common cause seems to be nickel earrings or other jewelry, which is worn for long periods. If you don't have contact with any other nickel plated items then it would take a long time for this to become an issue, and by a long time, I mean months to years of contact. This is something a hobbyist might not need to worry about, but a professional artist could very well accrue enough time for this to become an issue.
:59 is some fabric reflecting from a microfiber cloth that i use for fingerprints.
I've heard about nickel allergies, but I can only speak for myself and never had a problem, short term or long.
Why even comment, who really cares
Super cool. Thanks
You reviewed this just as they are releasing the 2024 that has a new beginner setting function to improve skill development.
Good review thanks! I applied DredFX's fix to all of my H&S brushes - definitely makes a difference
Yes a great fix from Rob👍
DredFX is the man! It's a great fix for sure. thanks so much for becoming a member PSI!
Hey there...what a great talent both you and Rob are....I'd be curious as a comparison of Robs' detail brush (HS Evolution with trigger response fix and running the .15 V2 needle and nozzle setup) against the $500 Iwata .15 gun. Of course, a detail paint session will tell a better resultant story. I'll keep my eye out for a vid on these.....hopefully. Nice work man....thanks for all your efforts to teach us your experiences of your Art life...peace
The Ultra trigger has a different design. It is really good and does'nt need any fixes. In fact it is more than good, it is excellent combined to the longer spring of the Evolution / Infinity. This Ultra trigger is the cheapest and by a huge margin the best H&S trigger in my view (not talking about Grafo and Colani that are different designs that don't have a trigger problem).
It would be a waste to apply any "fixes" on the Ultra trigger. On the contrary, the Ultra trigger is THE fix, because it can be used as a replacement to the Evolution / Infinity triggers, and it will work even better than the two teflon ring "fix" or the double spring "fix" or the "extended spring fix" that may improve things withour adressing the root problem. Also, on Evolution, for those who whant a very slightly stiffer spring, one can use the Iwata spring for HP-CM B, HP-CM SB, HP-CM C, HP-CM KCP (it is at Iwata's prices...). The Infinity Giraldez and Ultra 2024 have a slightly different design that I heard is really better... but I'm not sure it really fixes the base design flaws (it looks over-engeniered stuff that improves things without tackling the root problem, the opposite of Iwata's simple and classic yet excellent trigger design... sorry I'm badmouthing, I should try the Giraldez first, people seem to really like it). For the Evolution 2024 and Infinity 2024, no one knows yet what triggers they will have...
You should test it against the Ultra 2024 version :)
great review .!! please do a review of grafo t1
I hope someday. It's expensive and not sure if I'd use that style of airbrush, so im in no rush to buy one just yet.
@@theartworkshop yeah its expensive ,, sry i did not mean to rush u at all , i really wanted your thoughts on that trigger mechanism. i really love how deep to go on the reviews absolutely perfect.
It's really cool.
Great review! I have a question: The 2 prong air cap crown from the infinity would fit Iwata Airbrushes?
thanks! unfortunately no it will not fit iwata airbrushes
There is a new 2024 model of the Ultra
Well.. now I want one. THANKS. :(
haha! I know what you mean Jay. Airbrush collecting is addictive!
@@theartworkshop I started collecting by buying airbrushes from people who thought the brushes were "broken" but they had just never learned to clean them properly.
👍👍👍👍👍
Hi, can you link the Dredfx mods referred to please? I just looked but could not find them……..
ruclips.net/video/gCdRdai3r1M/видео.html this is his vid from about 7 months ago for the fix
id like to make a donation to the channel but I havent been able to find were to donate
Don't worry about donations. Just hope these videos help you out!
OK but I'd like to contribute
@@user-rk1po7km5t There is a "thanks" button that youtube places under my videos. Again it's not necessary, but thank you very much!
Omg I will have to sell my evo 2 in 1's they have that goofy hexagon needle chuck that wiggles so much, despite trigger fix
Try to buy a Ultra trigger (it is the cheapest H&S triggrer) and put it in the Evolution, it is not the same design and doesn't have the same problem as the Evolution / Infinity (it works fine, is precise and more reactive, particulary when put in a Evolution / Infinity). With this Ultra trigger, the other advantage is that the air valve screw can even be far less tight and the trigger will still come back up to cut the air even after a very slight press (the Evo / Infinity tend to stay stuck). I find it fixes the root of the problem and I don't care about the exagonal needle chuck, but if you do, just replace the spring by an Iwata spring for HP-CM B, HP-CM SB, HP-CM C, HP-CM KCP, it is slightly stiffer (and about 2 mm longer... about the same length difference than 2 or 3 stacked teflon washers of the "fix") and the chuck will wiggle less. And personally, I think that the exagonal chuck is not a problem, the Grafo that also has the same kind of chuck (but a very different triger type) and it does'nt have the Evolution / Infinity problem. If you don't like the Utlra trigger top, you can change it with another one, but keep the other parts of the Utra trigger as they don't have the Evo / Infinity flaw.