Mitsubishi i-MiEV range test
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 16 фев 2019
- Most of my music is from Artlist.io. If you sign up for one year and use my referral link, you will get two months free:
artlist.io/artlist-70446/?a_a...
My Artlist playlist:
artlist.io/mycollection/24628...
Donation links:
streamlabs.com/bjrnnyland
/ teslabjorn
My live channel:
/ teslabjornlive24
Teslabjørn Discord server:
/ discord
Reduce food waste and get great deals on food:
toogoodtogo.no/ 
Авто/Мото
Shieeeeeeeeeeet! Dude it’s my car! 😊
I though you had a X 75D. Or am i just confused🤔
MauriceNL Yupp :-) I have Model X75D, i-MiEV, and ordered Model 3 Performance 😁
@@MacGyver1908 oeh, nice. I love the Model 3!
Sup! Me too! :D (Well, you know what I mean Pawel)
You make me want to ship my pants 😂
Bought mine for €7000 in Y 2020 in Sweden. A 2011 in shape as brand new with only 18 000 km on the meter. The 10 y old battery gives us 130-140 km in summertime and 100+ km during Swedish winter. The total cost for 10 000 km first year is €2 for washing fluid. Looking forward to doing the first service measure myself, which is changing 0,7 l standard transmission oil every 40 000 km for the cost of €7. No need to change braking pads, at least not the first 100 000 km. Then you can do it yourself with a simple pair of pliers and pads costs around € 22 per pair.
It´s a whole new world to own this wonderful car. We barely ever drive our other (fossil) car now. And Nowadays u don´t have to be too afraid of changing the full battery after long wear degradation. There are specialist firms here that can detect and easily exchange the failing battery cells (usually 1-3 of 88) that causes degradation for a quite low cost.
I used to work for Mitsubishi for a whopping 6 months. Whenever I could, I would leave my company car at the office and take the iMiEV because i liked it so much. It is so nippy and parking is a no-brainer.
However, when I requested to have my stupid ASX diesel company car exchanged for an iMiEV, the answer was: "Japan won't sell them to us anymore, and even if they would, we wouldn't care because it's a car we can't sell afterwards, so the answer is no". Problem is: here in Belgium, an iMiEV costs as much as a Leaf, which is about twice what I think it's worth. It's a shame, because it is a car that brings a lot of driving enjoyment.
Perhaps they were rather expensive because they were just so good and the manufacturers knew it!
We love our 2014 iMiev.
My first EV was a 2013 I-MiEV. My best summer range was 136 @65km/hr and 110km in winter (-10c) @ 80km/hr with heat off. I would hypermile it by putting it in neutral to max out range. It was a great 2nd car for commuting. Rear seats was able to fit 1 child seat with wifey behind driver’s seat.
A hint for owners of this car. Insulate the heater and its piping. As this part is based on an ice car. It will reduce the energy consumption dramatically and the time until you feel the heat.
And the time it takes until you feeel the heat ... clumsy fingers
@@CAESARbonds can you show how to on a video or else?
Imiev was my first EV in 2012. I love these cars. Now i have my 4th EV. The MG ZS EV 👍🏻
Lol Mitsubishi 9byear old car has active cooling but Nissan is stupid and stubborn to include a proper active cooling 😂😂🤦♂️
There is something special about the imiev
I'll be honest, I'm a Model 3 LR owner, but I could totally see myself picking one of these up as a toy car to run around for errands.
Same here. Now hunting for a used one of these
@@anthonybha4510 These cars are super cool and fun to drive and like all ev's in North america they lost value like hell pick up a used one and have some fun.
Try drifting it in snow. So much fun!
Not too bad for such a small car, it can be an entry electric for people like me with an average or lower salary XD
I come from the future to tell you that now this is basically the poor man's only option to own a car at all, because gas is so expensive that only middle income and above can afford it
@@AsekiBekovy Well I still own a diesel car, I'm not moving to an electric soon as they're too expensive and the range and charge speed still sucks.
@@AgentSmith911 Seems to depend on the kind of car and driving conditions. We wanted to buy a Diesel NV200 to be able to do long trips and sleep in it, but they were quite expensive and not in best condition. Ended up with the eNV200 instead because it matches our typical driving (short distances only, longer distances maybe once a month) much better and also because of the much lower running cost. Gotta say though that it was an absolute bargain. Got it for the price you would normally pay for a Leaf in similar condition. Range really does not matter for us because we never drive longer distances per day than the car can do without a recharge. When we do, it charges quickly enought that we can have a break while charging and not be stressed. We have it for a year now and the lower running cost already compensated the price difference about half way. But that was only possible because the eNV200 was an absolute bargain... we were really lucky.
We paid under $10k CAD for a very lightly used one.
You have the best EV review videos bud. Real world, honest. Love it.
You are not allowed to do range tests with i-MiEV/Smart in winter times because tire industry does not manufacture efficient winter tires (E/F) for that size. Range is almost x1,5 with summer tires (B) and i-MiEV is the most efficient EV on the market. In Austria and Germany the heating system and doors are insulated by mitsubishi dealers and range is about 10-20% higher. i-MiEV stops at 82% to free the charging point for next Chademo driver. The rear seats can be adjusted in 1cm sections which is great for child seats. The i-MiEV has 6 airbags and the roof material absorbs odors for lifetime. Torque is limited to save tire cost and is only free if you stay on accelerator for several seconds. i-MiEV comes with active cole cabin filter which can be changed in seconds by drivers. The wipers are speed adjustable. When you put both charging cables in the car Chademo stops and AC goes on until 100% automatically. 2012+ has remote heater and charging timer and you can even select if you want to heat the car or defrost only the windscreen. I would say the remote works at least from 200m distance with fresh batteries. An outstanding most underrated car!
Bjørn, thank you very much for this review! I am about to buy one, so this was at the right time, at the right place! Have a nice day! D
Yes, video I have been waiting for :)
Great! I was waiting for this test for ages! By the way - I am doing much better consumption results :) Thank you for this video.
I bought a 2016 Mitsubishi I-Miev in the US here. It's a great car for around town and commuting. Any farther I have to get my gas car to get where I'm going.
My personal record with this car is 117km with 14% remaining capacity calculated to roughly 98Wh/km. During summer with no AC,
Relating the consumption to 100 km is what fossil car users are used to. Moreover, it is easier to calculate the range from it when knowing your EV's battery capacity. E.g. if a car consumes 20 kWh/100 km and you have a 40 kWh battery, you know you get 2 x 100 km of range.
This is why I prefer the kWh/100 km unit, and if I read Wh/km unit I always convert it to kWh/100 km in my head by moving the decimal point.
It's always easier to calculate with small numbers. When it comes to "consumption" (kWh/100 km) and capacity (kWh), the factor between the two numbers is typically a value between 0.5 and 5.0 in today's EVs. That's nice & handy to calculate in one's head effortlessly. Our flawed human brain likes to compare numbers in same order of magnitude (i.e. less than factor 10 difference) ;-)
Also isn't the electricity price per kWh usually? Which is the main reason to normalize the consumption down to that value and since kWh/km would be too small of a number to seem logical to most people, you do kWh/100km. Pretty easy to calculate in that regard, I pay 0,40€ per kWh, car uses 20kWh per 100km = 8€ per 100km or 8ct per km...
@@florian_spdl Good point!! This is a third good reason for using "kWh/100 km".
Summary:
1.) Small number value factor between consumption and battery capacity, and smaller numbers in general. Hence easier calculation from consumption figure to achievable range.
2.) People are used to consumption in "... per 100 km"
3.) People are used to kWh from their electricity bills, thus it's easier to calculate cost per distance! (also, the number value for the price in EUR for 100 km is the same as cents for 1 km)
200Wh/km so 1kWh/0.2kWh = 5 and 0.40€ / 5 = 8ct per km. To get the true cost you will also need to add the battery amortization cost that may be even more significant than the price of electricity.
@@electrodacus sure. and the amortisation cost of the car's purchasing price. and tax. and insurance... for the whole picture, it's more complicated of course.
What I wanted to mention is that the equivalent gasoline car cost is lower by the amount the battery will cost so when comparing the cost of EV vs ICE the cost of gasoline to drive a certain distance will need to be compared with the cost of electricity + the cost amortization of the battery.
The battery will have a warranty usually in the 160000 to 192000km this are from Tesla model 3 regular and long range and then divide the cost of the battery to this warranty distance and you get the best case cost amortization per km
The long range 80kWh model 3 battery is around $16000 / 192000km = 8.33 cent/km so very significant as that alone is the same whit what I pay for gasoline on my old inefficient 6 cylinder 3.5L ICE (most of my driving is highway).
So typical EV will cost about 2x as much as gasoline depending on electricity and gasoline prices at your location.
If battery cost amortization is ignored then EV may look like lower cost to drive.
Pretty down to earth guy. I like him!
Finally a triplet test, thank you so much! Just two little remarks: please use your OBD dongle with some app (canion) and you will get the numbers you want (wh/km etc.). And then you also should get more exact consumption, because if the battery is a little degraded, e.g. 12 instead of 14.5 kWh usable, then you calculated the consumption slightly higher than it actually is.
I've been searching for the canion app but I'm unable to find it. Tried Google Play. Can you help?
i-MiEV with CHAdeMO will divert AC to cool the battery, so that's why you hear the blower fan and can't turn it off.
The Imiev will always stop at around 80% during quick charging. You just have to restart it and it will continue. I never pushed mine up to 100% but I charged it to about 95% on quick chargers.
I wonder if they will be able to upgrade the cells in these older cars, to increase the range up 150 miles, I'm sure they will have the know how pretty soon.
.... Nicely Done !!!
I will do my review on my imiev 2012 SE very soon .
Is my first EV which i purchase about 3 years ago for a whooping $7500 only ... so far im very impress and happy with my Imiev , i was able to assimilate very quickly into this car .
... is a money saver , gas savings , and maintance savings ...
18:54 Minutes. Great. He's gonna show the full range test in real time 😉
Ouch, my ears! Thanks for the filter at the Tritium chargers :)
**knock knock knock** - hard
**knock knock knock** - hard
**knock knock knock** - hard
**knock knock knock** - SOFT! MMmmmmMM!
hahaha. Bjorn, you are hilarious!
Your videos are very good! I'm a Citigo owner, and I'm currently waiting for Skoda to release the electric version. Hopefully the range is better than the e-Up.
The car is ugly, but it is cheap (I bought it second hand, so even cheaper).
As it is boxy, you can load quite a bit inside when the back seats are lowered.
It is nice as a commuting second car for short distances.
A B how is that car doing? I plan to buy one new , I live in norway and Im a little bit affraid about the range , because in the winter that range is going to drop a lot haha
Surprisingly although it's so small you can get a full set of golf clubs AND trolley in the back with the seats down. I almost bought one in 2013, but my wife wasn't happy with the battery replacement price. You have to remember that then no-one really new how long the batteries would last (I even spoke to Nissan at the time).
Be on the look for the upgraded 30 kWh versions running around. A range rest would be cool too see. Cheers
I'd seriously look forward to that
@@toyotaprius79 Same here. He shouldn't have any issue finding one considering all the battery pack wizards in his area.
The design is even older as it is based on the ICE 'K' car that had a 600 cc engine. The original price for the iMiev was £23,500 in the UK back in 2012!!!! (oh yeah, the replacement battery would have cost £8000!!!)
Plastic interior is easy to clean and makes good sound deadening for the most part.
The cells are lithium-Titanium, more stronger than other cells. And it can support fast charging over 2C without extreme degradation.
I don't really care about this car but I like watching your videos
kWh/100km makes more sense because it is perfectly fine to thing about a 230km trip as a 200km (and a bit), so it is far easier to multiply 33 by 2 and get 66kWh and estimate the "a bit" to a third, so get +11kWh, rather than multiply 330 by 200 and then count down the zeros to get 66000 Wh and *way* easer than multiplying 330 by 230 to get 75900 Wh. It is all about having smaller numbers that you can use easily in your head. Also comparing to l/100km is a useful thing. Also the batteries in kWh as well, so why not do all calculations in that unit as well? Neither is really a SI unit - that would be Joule or watt second.
If you want smaller numbers, use kWh/km. In your example it will be:
0.33 kWh/km * 230 km = 75.9 kWh
The only reason why car manufacturers still use kWh/100 km is because the fossil cars use this weird unit. And they are too lazy to switch to Wh/km unlike Tesla which is only making EVs.
@@bjornnyland but electric company sells you energy in kWh, because it would be a very small number, when it would be in Wh. For example in Czech Republic 1 kWh cost around 5kč, 1Wh would by like 0,005kč.... (1 NOK = 2,6kč). So it is better to count kWh per 100km. And capacity of battery is in kWh to, so when an EV show consumption 15kWh/100km and the baterry is 30kWh, you know quickly that you can drive max. 200km.
@@bjornnyland Fractions are not small. Integer values under 10 are small, under 100 are okish. Having just a single significant digit is ideal. The point is mind math. That is the same reason why mpg is a bad measure - because it forces you to do division instead of much easier multiplication.
Just because Tesla does something differently does not mean it is a good thing, like they invented their own connector and yet it is worse than CCS. Or invented not using rain sensor and use inferior camera based rain detection to save a dollar in parts.
@@bjornnyland So your old BMW 5 series measured its consumption in km/L? Otherwise kWh/100 km makes way more sense and it's implementation in basic innovation strategy theory. Research has shown that the majority of the population is more comfortable adopting new products/innovations that conform to existing "scripts" and "schemas" - assumptions, beliefs about a particular product/system. This goes back to the years of Thomas Edison and his electric light bulb. In this case kWh/100 km (or kg/100 km for FCVs) is a direct derivative of the standard L/100 km. So not every practical/functional aspect is arbitrary with EVs, it's also grounded in theory sometimes :). Here's a more detailed, though still brief explanation of the theory I'm referring to: www.lc-global-us.com/change-talk/robust-innovation-strategies-the-edison-effect/
Your example is exactly what is wrong with the /100km unit. Because you never drive somewhere that is exactly 100km or a multiple of that.
So you have to calculate any way. So you could better have it per kilometer, or even how many kilometers per kWh
You can use the free app "canion" to look at the data of the car. You can even look the state of individual cells.
Thank you
Interesting car. It's ok for a small get around city driver. Good luck for banana box test. Funny for being so old it doesn't look any more outdated than some the other compliance cars.
Those pass filters are nice. I can get rid of most the deep road noise with high pass filter.
I have that car, it's fairly good at low speeds, not so in high speed run. Canion says it can run up to 130-150km. on slow roads, in summer.
They sell it also in Hong Kong. You sit relatively high there, but all the winds move the car. Can't drive fast on windy days.
I have a 2011 iOn (still with the standard 16kWh battery and C and B modes available) , and it's normal the quick charge stop about 80%, it's a feature, not a bug :p It's related to the charging speed in that percentage, if it drops, is not quite worth it using it relating on using a AC home charger.
When the i-Miev came out I was really disappointed and to me it was a bit of a joke. First up it looked so damn EV-ish, but over the years I've changed my mind. The styling has grown on me and it doesn't really have any vices, unless the little car itself doesn't fit your needs. I haven't closely checked the prices but for a certain driver who just needs a runabout it must be a really good secondhand option. The batteries should be in half-decent condition too given that there is an active management system. An entry level EV? What does Pawel think of his i-Miev?
I'm dying to get a hold of a CZero, I see one in Ireland for under €4000. A lot imo but the practicality and battery durability alone feels worth it, plus CHAdeMO every 60km or so.
The lack of confidence from dealerships and mechanics however...
For best efficiency, you have to keep the red needle in the Eco zone of the odometer and drive in Eco mode. You have to listen to the car and go as fast it wants naturally, thus don't push it. However if you're secure with enough range, then like you did you can speed in the car and have fun.
That and the aerodynamics dont help it much.
Hello Björn! Please provide us with a race of two cheap used EVs: i-miev vs. e-up! Greetings from Austria! Btw I drive an e-up!.
That would be a great watch :)
Great review.
Yay! I got the Peugeot version. Love it!
Oh, and it fits two fully assembled Billy bookshelves from IKEA if you don't mind some part of it poking out of the car.
Very popular car in Madrid (Spain) used in carsharing with the company Emov to drive in city center by Citroen (C-Zero) and has the same interior
looking at one of these for purchase right now.
Design is not 9 years old...
first Mitsubishi I (petrol version) started 2006! design is 13years old!
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_i
I have been HAMMERED..., SHIEEEEET!!! Awesome
Almost same net capacity as my 2012 Leaf have now with SOH 78
This was the car I had 1st seen was a production electric car before I even was aware of EV tech? I liked the design and the fact it was electric. I thought that if I had the money I buy this car instead of a diesel or petrol version. But I never got the money to buy any car not even this EV? Shame that. I after many years of having a bicycle then a Moped I still could not afford any car. Maybe I will have a EV someday? Thanks for the video it all helps to know the range.
I can see it charge 100A at 360 Volts for 36kW. The fan will blow during charging when the battery is warm. I've had the fan stay off when the battery was at -5c, and also throttled speed. I do have a after market cruise control, which is really nice.
The car design is actually from 2006, from the petrol Mitsubishi i, and it was retrofitted in 2010 with electrics. It gets me from a to b cheaply, dry, out of the wind and not entirely cold. The heater just isn't very good at all.
I have the Openvehicles.com OBD device with 3G that sends battery status to the internet and gives me smartphone charging alerts on my Android phone. At 150 euro it isn't cheap, but it works really well. It show basic battery percentage and temperatures, as well as location and some charging history.
Nice with little older electric car, hope to see Citroen Saxo Electrique and other older cars, it´s realy good to see older cars and that they can do.
Great to see a i-MiEV review. Is that a 2011 model? Post 2012 there are a few improvements, better cells in the pack, increased regen, extra regen on the start of the brake pedal travel. C mode has the least regen, depending on the road/traffic conditions you may get better range in D. In Australian summer conditions 120km range is possible at 90km/h versus about 100km for a 2010 model.
Gregory O'Sullivan he had text on screen saying it was 5 year old car.
@@rkan2 if it really was a 2014 car it would have had the extra regen via brake pedal feature. Wheels are different on 2012+ unless this one is running different rims for the winter tires.
Gregory O'Sullivan Biltema.no gives the following info based on the reg:
Årsmodell:2015
Reg.dato:20141230
"people say i'm a short asian, and asians say i am tall" 😂😂😂😂😂
"Figure it out yourself" :-D
thank you for that filter indeed
I have an Outlander PHEV and certain nuances like 80% stop (the car automatically cuts charging at ~80% always at DC fast chargers) & the ABB issue is also prevalent on my car. So definitely a Mitsubishi thing.
Kia Soul EV does the same thing.
In Spain, this car costs the same as a 40kWh Nissan Leaf. It's embarrasing.
Love this car! =D
Got the 2012 edition as a "second car". Quickly ended up using it as the primary car, while the "primary" diesel is dusting away in the garage. Turns out living and working in the Oslo area doesn't require as much from your car as many would think.
The iMiev looks weird, but it is the perfect car for driving in the city. You can squeeze thru traffic everywhere no matter how little space between other cars during rush hours. And you also have a ridiculous amount of parking spots to your disposal because people who prefer regular cars and SUVs, just... can't... fit.... It's hilarious to see them try, and then I just pop in when they give up. :)
I've had the car for more than six years. The battery haven't lost a km yet. Still reaches 70-80 km during winter with the heater on low. During summer it takes me at least 100 km. Or even 120+ if I _really_ don't want to stop at the charger. Also, with the amount of money we've saved so far from not buying any gas or paying at the toll roads, it looks like the car will pay for itself within the next couple of years.
And the best part?
I can easily lose my drivers licence on most Norwegian highways with an iMiev _with_ a tumble dryer in the trunk. Try doing that with a Tesla Model 3! =D
The car is called like meow :D Even instrument cluster looks like cat...or mouse? :D
Hello Kitty 🐱. Mitsubishi DO have a sense of humour 😸
Thank you for filter.
The correct base unit for milage is J/m (joules/meter) = Ws/m.
1 kWh = 3,600,000 J. 100 km = 100,000 m
So 1 kWh/100 km equals 36 J/m after removing the zeros. Now you have a handy unit, everything else is derived from it. :-)
The Mitsubishi Mi-Ev line I find in design and pricerange attractive, but the range severely lacking.
Maybe not the most efficient...but still, you can find several of these used between 6500 and 9000 euros over Europe. Best thing happening to this car would be something like the add-on battery pack developed for the Leaf by the guy at the Muxsan project.
Man, those tiny circle liquid crystal displays. What is this 1984? Looks like an old calculator.
Yeah but who would want a complex older car out of warranty :)
@@Eb3nez3r I got to electric cars this year 2015 smart traction pack gone. 2016 Kia soul traction pack battery gone. I will never buy a electric car without a warranty.
I love these cars, I want to get one as a companion for my ENV......
The noise from the Tritium chargers is very likely coil whine. And as it's audible I guess that they use a frequency below 200kHz. Also the 6kHz low pass filter blocking the noise means the frequency has to be above 6kHz.
In many ways it was always an appealing little car. If only they could have fitted a bigger battery., say a 24Kwhr. But I remember this was wild expensive when it came out. It never really made sense economically. Still there are plenty of them around secondhand.
Slitghly too expensive second hand here in Sweden :(
That charging sound is like a Renault Zoe
The charger has a button for choosing between 80% or max charge.
+Anton It's set to 100 % by default.
This car should get a successor. Same price (around 20k) and 250km range (~32 kWh). They should be able to double the capacity compared to 2013. The original cells just have a gravimetric energy density of around 100Wh/kg if I remember correctly. Shouldn't be a big deal. There are even bigger improvements in volumetric energy density. Also a CCS plug.
Yeah we will need cheeaaaaap EVs , too! This with updated tech should be cheap-iah
Bjoern, could you do your range test with the Leaf 24 and 30kwh version? Afaik you did not do those yet
Bjørn, I know you don't realise this😉, but your country is beautiful, man.
btw I assume you did this test with the heat off ?
In Hungary I don't have any problems with ABB chargers. Might be a software issue on the chargers.
We had a few updates on AC chargers that made them not recognize a lot of cars, so you couldn't start charging, they are fixed now. Wondering if it could be the same on the Norwegian ABB chargers.
If the fan is on during CHAdeMO charging, it means it is cooling the battery.
(2011 Peugeot iOn from France, 35000km, 84% SOH)
That's rough degradation, my Peugeot Ion as about 70000 km and i'm at around 88% SOH.
@@MrKeke2502 it is. I bought the car around 8 months ago with 28000km (85% SOH) when it was 7 yrs old. I think that the previous owner didnt really take car of the battery. I do, and so I got almost no degradation since then, as well as my cell voltages differ less now compared to when I bought it. You know.... 28000km over 7 years is not much, I go further: too few km over that period of time.
@@xaboa I don't really take care of it either. Lots of DC fast charging sessions, lots of testing, even tested rapidgate by bringing cells to +50°C , I went on very long trips with multiple DC and highway driving ... And at current rate, and if the degradation is linear with the kilometers, I've estimated that I should be able to go at least 125 000 km before reaching 80% SoH. But the thing is, I live in Paris area and the climate is very good with electric car with most of the year averaging at around 20°C and the car is parked inside. It may have a significant impact.
Also, I see when I fast charge that the cell 68 get much hotter than the rest of the pack, I guess it will be the first to fail but I've recently discovered a garage in Brittany which change triplettes cells for around 135€ each so I guess it's not gonna die soon. I also very much look forward to see people retrofitting bigger battery packs on those tiny cars, the form factor being ideal for me and I3 and Zoe being too expensive compared to my Ion
They're brilliant!!
Why did they ever stop making them?
Probably because they couldn't sell them. 23.000USD is too expensive for a tiny electric car like this. Moreover they were using GS-Yuasa batteries with a nominal energy density of about 100Wh/kg (the current batteries have a value about 270Wh/kg), and no other battery manufacturer produced similar cells for the car to be easily upgraded by Mitsubishi.
@@smithcasey9785 Casey, do you know if battery on those cars can be regenerated??
Only way you get the same consumption on a gen1 2012 Leaf is if you turn off the heater and with heating it does 220Wh/km in the same temperature I guess. My 2018 and probably earlier versions with heat pump will do about the same as the i-Miev in 90km/h on GPS.
I find kWh/100km is more convenient for me to calculate in my head but in the end it's easy just to calculate in one and multiply / divide to get the other. What I hate and don't understand is the American usage of Miles Per Gallon MPG since it's non linear relationship. with l/100km if you halve the figure you get twice the range with MPG you double the MPG you don't get twice the range as an example going from 12 to 18 MPG is a bigger saving than going from 20 to 26 MPG. Fortunately nobody is using km/kWh that I know of.
Would love to see my very thirsty B250E in the list. Can you perform the BNEVTP? Björn Nyland Electric Vehicle Test Procedure. Once you are close to Hamburg I will lend you my car.
A fourth variant is the Mitsuoka Like with 5 seats.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsuoka_Like?wprov=sfti1
Can you please make a range test with the Hyundai Nexo? Would love to see, how it performes in your tests!
@@scott8919 I know ;) In Oslo are several, also Bergen and Trondheim.
Did you happen to bump the brake pedal when it stopped?
What is the range during winter with heating on like in -10 to -15 degrees Celcius? Would it go 70km?
No. Only if you add a diesel heater, can be done easily, and don't use the electric heater
Have you changed lev50 cells to lev65? bms sees 65Аh?
Hei Bjørn test the Buddy. I only see them in Norway.
Good day
I can live with Wh/km. Just divide by 10 and you have kWh/100km. From there it is easier to compute costs.
18:36 I think the wrong table was shown (was the noise level test, may be consumption was expected?)
+Gordini Nope, it was intended.
Hi. I would like to ask whether anyone does not know where is located the horn and how to fix/change it in case it is not working.
Thank you.
This i-MiEV was based on i-Car which too didn't do well as we don't need a kei car. Having said that, I find this car suitable for my daily commute. We did have Mitsi iCar and test drove it. That car didn't do well on our turf so that's why I don't see the iMiev in person.
The battery upgrade can help with that ✌
-Holy crap this is tight, man. Xd
Test the Smart Fortwo Eq please !!!
What Miles are on the car?
Was the sound audible to your ears near the charger or only on the recorded sound?
It is audible to the ears. I only find the tritium chargers to make that high pitch sound. ABB and others are either very quiet or have loud fan noises. The Renault Zoe does have a similar high pitch noise when it's charging but it's the only one
@@MrKeke2502 ok I was wondering about the EMI /RFI emissions. If it was effecting the camera sound.
There is a new proposed charge method that ultra fast charges batteries by hitting them with very high amps (300+) but with a high frequency square wave DC input. Apparently it works without the battery overheating. However 320 to 800+ volt square wave with 300 to 800+ Amps... is going to have some RFI screening issues!
Just have bought japanese right-steering version with 16 kW battery and 25 kW motor. Milage shoud be longer a bit.
I-Miev come with a 47kW permanent magnet synchronous motor
Some documentation on that type of motor if you're interested : repozytorium.p.lodz.pl/bitstream/handle/11652/366/Analysis_of_the_traction_Wawrzyniak_2009.pdf?sequence=1&isAllowed=y
You need to test electric Smart.
Lol I-Miev sounds like "stinky" in German. Other than that I'm a big fan of Mitsubishi :D