Love the knowledge & laughter you bring to YT. Under your carful tutelage, I'll finally graduate from "complete-tard" to "armchair-mechanic". Thank you.
Haha, I always reused the crush sleeve and daily driver. Never had n issue. My biggest problem was the spider gears. Also bend up the thrush washers behind spider gears to add pressure to them. Hillbilly posi. N is all good till the cross pin breaks and takes out the ring/pinion. Happened twice. Pin broke, didn't know till buddy pulling me home n lost axle on the road!
At least someone is still down to earth building shit like this. Don't gotta be fancy, build it like you're going to take it out to a field and beat the shit out of it, if you think it'll survive that, it'll race.
Does the gm 7.5 and 7⅝ run a different cover? I personally don't remember. I do remember having a 87 Monte Carlo and a 84 LeSabre and I always just pulled the ring n pinion out of S10's with 3.73 gears and never had any issues. Well other than shims n all for back lash which was nothing.
I know I talk to much! The balance is gonna depends on ur welding. I had a 93 Chevy C1500 5speed I exploded the aluminum drive shaft. I got a steel one that was I believe around 2" shorter or so. Cut it and welded in a barstock keeping it aligned. Yeah once u hit slightly over 70 it was a woman's dream come true on wheels!
Nice work toilet. That rear end had been in a 113,000 1998 S10 ZQ8 factory sport truck with a 2.2L and NP1500 transmission with 3.73:1 rear end. The oil is a decade old but it was pretty fresh at the time. Too bad you couldnt just just toss my old axle assembly under the g body whole, would have saved alot of bull crap. ***BTW*** you have footage of that s10 duing field lot truck duty and doing burnouts***
Seat time is way more important that what your driving, there's lots of guys need to see what you are doing. Double club diesels built a "lathe" just out of 4 casters to help with cutting and welding a drive line you should take a look, looks much easier than using a grinder. My drive line guy says a balenced drive line is a cheap drive line. One that is straight is more expensive and will vibrate less. His drive lines never vibrate either.
I been racing since I was 8 started in a ministock mustang back in 2000 and back then yes you could probably build a front running pure stock or even mini stock for 2k if done correctly and already have some parts but nowadays your not building a pure stock which this is or a true street stock for less then 8k dollars for a crappy one. And actually man we cut rear frame horns off because it's alot better and they bend when hit so you don't bend your frame and most rear bumper bar setups and a nice fuel cell cage and all that is easier to put it with square tubing instead of rear frame horns, but for 2k I would love to see it running cuse it won't run up front against our pure stocks down here we all run built 350s that make more power then 602 crate motors and hung aluminum bodies 2bbl 650cfm Mac the best carbs for oval racing is hands down VDL he makes the best oval track racing carbs and they makeore power then a regular holly 2bbl carb for oval racing I have always ran VDL and I did a test on chassis dyno ran a circle track holly 650cfm and then the VDL 650cfm 2bbl and gained 64.3 horsepower cuse of how well blueprinted his carbs are and they legal, also put pure stocks have to run autos which sucks but in a few weeks we are running for 5k to win at deep south speedway in pure stocks look it up only reason I have a dirt pure stock is cuse they run for 1k-8k dollars to win features every weekend at one fl the many dirt tracks around me closest one is 30 minutes and furthest one is 3 hours and there is 9 of them and it's awesome I'm a asphalt racer by heart by can't beat the dn layouts for pure stocks here, your car would be legal here just under powered by a little not much. But here is what our pure stocks are, hung aluminum bodies using aluminum sheets that are pre colored, only thing that is stock has to be the roof everything else can be aluminum sheets hung just Google or fb southern raceway deep south speedway pure stocks that's two of the 9 tracks I run them at, the front bumper has to be the md3 pure stock/street stock bumper cover no rear bumper cover required, even th A and b posts can be made out of aluminum sheets same with the rest of body except roof, must have stock floor boards no decking of the interior no rear spoiler, must have stock rear trailing arms allowed a 1/4 inch longer or smaller then stock but must have the stock mounts and arms and mount in stock location no headers allowed 2bbl 650cfm max with 1 inch spacer and the motor rules are not to bad but for deep south where we running for 5k to win is a motor track and my motor is maxed out to the rule book if you do that you won't have a problem power wise as long as your running a nice blue printed carb like the VDL I run, I also have a portable pressurized air tank I modified with valves and some plumbing pipe and then a 3/4 inch rubber hose that runs accross the front of my radiator and I pull the handle under caution to spray pressurized cold water accross my radiator to keep the motor cool and knock off the mud and dirt build up on radiator cuse you know as I do these dirt cars love to over heat no matter what once you get mud and dirt buildup on the radiator and is theimoted amount of air vents and holes on front bumper covers restricts alot of fresh air flow coming in to keep it cool se we are allowed those tanks in pure stocks only nobody else runs one except me and I gain so many positions under caution cuse ppl have to go in and get the radiator sprayed with water hoses if they start to over heat to get dirt off of them, now deep south since it's a big fast half mile not much mud and dirt buildup at all and the speeds are high enough where you get entry of air going into the radiator but small bull rings like 1/4 mile and a little less we run on for big money the tank o got is a life saver and has been the deciding factor of me winning and blowing my motor or not winning to save motor from over heating or win and blow theotor from over heating most guys don't care about their cars overheating it I do cuse I don't like pulling out and building new motors 3 times a season I like to run the same nice built fast motor for multiple seasons with out blowing it up and a rebuild once a year before each season starts and Dyno chassis tune through out season looking for horsepower lose and keeping the cars power as high as possible all year round
You build a street stock and you try and sit down to get under the car and somehow you forget you kicked the creeper five feet away and you hit the ground it's not fun so FUCK
Man! When you go down a racin rabbit hole, you go down a rabbit hole!!! But I like it!!!!
Love the knowledge & laughter you bring to YT. Under your carful tutelage, I'll finally graduate from "complete-tard" to "armchair-mechanic". Thank you.
Ricky from the trailer park boys goes racing
Nah even Ricky would be like "fuckin hell man you gots ya a pontiac mooth"
You know its gonna be a good engine when you have to vacuum it out..lol
Awesome, Love low budget builds like these!
Ricky builds a trailer park dirt car.
What a fucking treat
I don't know if I can get through the whole video with the non-stop F bombs.
Haha, I always reused the crush sleeve and daily driver. Never had n issue. My biggest problem was the spider gears. Also bend up the thrush washers behind spider gears to add pressure to them. Hillbilly posi. N is all good till the cross pin breaks and takes out the ring/pinion. Happened twice. Pin broke, didn't know till buddy pulling me home n lost axle on the road!
Bankruptcy starter kit version #3
Great info for that driveshaft info. That was a great tip
Cameraman in the house!
You say “Fuck” enough? Sheeeeesh.
I know for real
At least someone is still down to earth building shit like this. Don't gotta be fancy, build it like you're going to take it out to a field and beat the shit out of it, if you think it'll survive that, it'll race.
How do you have your body secured to the frame? I'm in the middle of building a hobby stock
Wes bloody good to see another top class vid !!
quality entertainment i mean this guy just is how youtubers need to be hahaha i lovey our shit man keep it up
Does the gm 7.5 and 7⅝ run a different cover? I personally don't remember. I do remember having a 87 Monte Carlo and a 84 LeSabre and I always just pulled the ring n pinion out of S10's with 3.73 gears and never had any issues. Well other than shims n all for back lash which was nothing.
Good Stuff, merci. Mechanical Minds.
Subscribed with 15 seconds
Do they have engine claim rules where you race?
This is the kinda guy that gets in a accident thats unavoidable on track and starts trying to throw hands
Mornin feller.... thanks for another video 👍👍👊🍺🍺
I know I talk to much! The balance is gonna depends on ur welding. I had a 93 Chevy C1500 5speed I exploded the aluminum drive shaft. I got a steel one that was I believe around 2" shorter or so. Cut it and welded in a barstock keeping it aligned. Yeah once u hit slightly over 70 it was a woman's dream come true on wheels!
Nice work toilet. That rear end had been in a 113,000 1998 S10 ZQ8 factory sport truck with a 2.2L and NP1500 transmission with 3.73:1 rear end. The oil is a decade old but it was pretty fresh at the time. Too bad you couldnt just just toss my old axle assembly under the g body whole, would have saved alot of bull crap.
***BTW*** you have footage of that s10 duing field lot truck duty and doing burnouts***
Can you please make more videos like this one
Holy fuckin shit this is the best video ever 😂 I love this man already
Two bolts converter will be fine with that 130hp. Hopefully you’ll get lucky with gearing. Good luck hairlip
Keep the content up!
Seat time is way more important that what your driving, there's lots of guys need to see what you are doing.
Double club diesels built a "lathe" just out of 4 casters to help with cutting and welding a drive line you should take a look, looks much easier than using a grinder. My drive line guy says a balenced drive line is a cheap drive line. One that is straight is more expensive and will vibrate less. His drive lines never vibrate either.
U race at stateline??
I been racing since I was 8 started in a ministock mustang back in 2000 and back then yes you could probably build a front running pure stock or even mini stock for 2k if done correctly and already have some parts but nowadays your not building a pure stock which this is or a true street stock for less then 8k dollars for a crappy one. And actually man we cut rear frame horns off because it's alot better and they bend when hit so you don't bend your frame and most rear bumper bar setups and a nice fuel cell cage and all that is easier to put it with square tubing instead of rear frame horns, but for 2k I would love to see it running cuse it won't run up front against our pure stocks down here we all run built 350s that make more power then 602 crate motors and hung aluminum bodies 2bbl 650cfm Mac the best carbs for oval racing is hands down VDL he makes the best oval track racing carbs and they makeore power then a regular holly 2bbl carb for oval racing I have always ran VDL and I did a test on chassis dyno ran a circle track holly 650cfm and then the VDL 650cfm 2bbl and gained 64.3 horsepower cuse of how well blueprinted his carbs are and they legal, also put pure stocks have to run autos which sucks but in a few weeks we are running for 5k to win at deep south speedway in pure stocks look it up only reason I have a dirt pure stock is cuse they run for 1k-8k dollars to win features every weekend at one fl the many dirt tracks around me closest one is 30 minutes and furthest one is 3 hours and there is 9 of them and it's awesome I'm a asphalt racer by heart by can't beat the dn layouts for pure stocks here, your car would be legal here just under powered by a little not much. But here is what our pure stocks are, hung aluminum bodies using aluminum sheets that are pre colored, only thing that is stock has to be the roof everything else can be aluminum sheets hung just Google or fb southern raceway deep south speedway pure stocks that's two of the 9 tracks I run them at, the front bumper has to be the md3 pure stock/street stock bumper cover no rear bumper cover required, even th A and b posts can be made out of aluminum sheets same with the rest of body except roof, must have stock floor boards no decking of the interior no rear spoiler, must have stock rear trailing arms allowed a 1/4 inch longer or smaller then stock but must have the stock mounts and arms and mount in stock location no headers allowed 2bbl 650cfm max with 1 inch spacer and the motor rules are not to bad but for deep south where we running for 5k to win is a motor track and my motor is maxed out to the rule book if you do that you won't have a problem power wise as long as your running a nice blue printed carb like the VDL I run, I also have a portable pressurized air tank I modified with valves and some plumbing pipe and then a 3/4 inch rubber hose that runs accross the front of my radiator and I pull the handle under caution to spray pressurized cold water accross my radiator to keep the motor cool and knock off the mud and dirt build up on radiator cuse you know as I do these dirt cars love to over heat no matter what once you get mud and dirt buildup on the radiator and is theimoted amount of air vents and holes on front bumper covers restricts alot of fresh air flow coming in to keep it cool se we are allowed those tanks in pure stocks only nobody else runs one except me and I gain so many positions under caution cuse ppl have to go in and get the radiator sprayed with water hoses if they start to over heat to get dirt off of them, now deep south since it's a big fast half mile not much mud and dirt buildup at all and the speeds are high enough where you get entry of air going into the radiator but small bull rings like 1/4 mile and a little less we run on for big money the tank o got is a life saver and has been the deciding factor of me winning and blowing my motor or not winning to save motor from over heating or win and blow theotor from over heating most guys don't care about their cars overheating it I do cuse I don't like pulling out and building new motors 3 times a season I like to run the same nice built fast motor for multiple seasons with out blowing it up and a rebuild once a year before each season starts and Dyno chassis tune through out season looking for horsepower lose and keeping the cars power as high as possible all year round
Right on man!
You say a lot of the same shit I do when I'm building shit, My favorite.... "Mostly fucking level." LMAO!!!!
....good enough for government work!
I'm building a 3800 supercharged gtp with a wrecked park ave 3800
Wes you got good timing bc I got a 79 monte I’m lookin to put a 700r in for cheap bc we’ll Ik a broke jew so this is helpful lol
Fire up that super chat machine
Cheers gang, superchats!
$700 for a roller is a great fuckin deal I can’t even find a wissota street stock with no body for less that 2grand nowadays its fuckin ridiculous
Well fuck. That’s a good fucking deal.
Fuck that’s a lot of work! 😂
Hell yeah!!!
funniest video ive ever seen in my entire life and incredibly inspiring
Soap box derby.
I seen domestic violence Camaro take a beating on the D eye no trailer .
I would love to build a car with you lmao
👌
I think a guy needs to pay you a visit
Nope can't do it. Clean it up
You got this brother man ..... use the magic of the jew ...
Mint👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Oh fuck this fuck that!
Yes ther you go won't watch, too much F words
Killer
Stop saying fuckin
Stop with the f word
Fuck
You build a street stock and you try and sit down to get under the car and somehow you forget you kicked the creeper five feet away and you hit the ground it's not fun so FUCK
Please stop using profanity!!!!