HDR Photography Beginners Guide - How to Create Realistic HDR Photos
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2024
- In this beginner's guide to HDR photography tutorial, I explain what HDR is, why you should use it, how to capture the HDR photo series, and how to process it to achieve realistic and natural results.
The Aurora HDR software isn't available anymore but its HDR engine is included in the subscription of bit.ly/Luminar-NEO (ATNEO gives a discount on the subscription) All the concepts of the video of how to create HDR images are still relevant.
Essentially HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography is the act of photographing a high contrast scene with a range of exposures and then combining those photographs into one image that contains the full range of brightness values. When done well, this results in a photo that better resembles what we saw with our own eyes when we captured the shot.
HDR has justifiably had a bad rap due to some photographer's heavy-handed approach. But in this video, I show how a beginner HDR photographer can quickly achieve realistic effects with ease.
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Excellent video, a real pro but more important a good teacher. Many on the Internet are what I call "over teachers", they tell you stuff to impress you with what they know. Anthony teaches what you need to know in a calm and unassuming way. in his work examples one can see how good he is as a photographer and photo editor. i learned more in this short HDR video than I have in several twice its length. Thanks Anthony, great teaching and outstanding photo examples.
Thanks Mark. Your cheque is in the mail 😆. No, seriously I really appreciate your kind words and review of my teaching. I'm humbled. Thanks very much 🙏
Anthony, i like how you’ve slowed your delivery. It makes it easier to follow. Great job.
Thanks Peter. This one's an older video, so I probably started slower and sped up the pace overtime. But I'm working hard to get the pacing right, but I never please everyone.
best video explaining HDR on youtube
Glad you think so! Thanks 😀 👍
Thanks for the wonderful video. I appreciate the manner in which you break dn the process into smaller understandable bits with equal value to both the theory n practical editing. 👌
Great video Anthony. Some awesome tips in there. Cheers mate for sharing.
Thanks Adrian. It was meant to be a quick video to record but I ended up spending ages on it! Titles, examples, etc etc. Glad you liked it! :)
Thank you Anthony!!!! I'm so excited to try this! It's EXACTLY what I'm looking for as a beginner 💞💞💞
You're so welcome Shelly! Glad it's been helpful!
Excellent presentation. I learned a lot and will refer back to it often. Thank you.
Cheers Craig!
Fantastic tutorial! Super insightful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Superb explanation, subscribed. Thx man.
Thanks for a very clear and concise demonstration. Love the channel.
Awesome, thank you Craig!
Explained very well with workflow.. Thanks mate
You're welcome Shyam!
Thank you for another great video!! Very educational and easy to follow 😁
Thanks Sean
EXCELLENT video!
An excellent tutorial, concise and filled with practical knowledge. I enjoyed watching.
Brilliant. Thanks Billy.
Loved it... very clear delivery. thank you.
Glad it was helpful Maria!
Excellent video, just what I need to know! Very precise but not too much information. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Woow 🔥 thanks!
Well done, Anthony. Excellent examples, sequence, pacing, voice, and simplicity (which is very hard to do!).
Many thanks Fernando!
well made video, thanks for the great presentation!
Glad you liked it!
Awesome video and thanks. Very useful tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for making your talet available here, you are one of the few that communicate in a clear and understandable way and with knowleage, well done!
I appreciate that! Thanks for your kind words!
super demo of Aurora HDR
Thanks for the great video 👍
Phenomenal video. Thank you so much!!!
Cheers Oscar. :)
Thanks for the great video - very informative
You're welcome Sylvest. I appreciate the feedback. Cheers, Anthony :) I love the artwork in your profile pic by the way! Very cool.
Rarely I've watched such a well explained video on yt! Hats off dude!!!
Thanks Benjamin 😀
Anthony, outstanding video as are all your videos. Thanks
I appreciate that Doug!
Brilliant tutorial. You are such a good presenter, Anthony ... always clear, constructive and most importantly, inspiring! I've learnt so much from all your tutorials. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you!
Your effort was well worth while. A very good informative video well above the average, thanks.
Thanks Don. I appreciate that :)
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Great video sir! I'm looking forward to trying this out
Hope you enjoy it Francis!
Thanks!
Excellent presentation, Anthony. This is what exactly I was looking for. Thanks a lot for sharing such valuable information about HDR shooting. You've earned a subscriber.
Thanks!
@@AnthonyTurnham you are most welcome.
Thanks for your efforts.. It helped a lot :)
Thanks for the tutorial it’s amazing 🙏
My pleasure 😊
Im an amateur photographer and i just like playing around with the camera right now. I know enough about the basics to just play around and try the more next level stuff now, and HDR is one thing i dipped my toes into to try. Right now im useing snapseed cause i currently dont have anything else and i love how you can go as far as making the photo look like it was painted to making it look to the point where it was right in front of you. I love your video, very well done, and i hope to catch more of your stuff in the future. :)
Thanks so much Wolfie! Best wishes for your photography journey!
The HDR software Aurora isn't available anymore however, the HDR engine used in Aurora is now used to drive Luminar Neo's HDR Merge tool. Same natural look, just easier to use. It's part of the extension pack you can find here: bit.ly/Luminar-NEO (ATNEO gives a discount on the subscription) All the concepts of the video of how to create HDR images are still relevant.
If the link above isn't working for you, try: bit.ly/2TfoisF_HDR
I wasn't really sure what I was doing with HDR. I always wanted to give it a go but it just seemed too complicated. Thank you for simplifying the process. The software you recommended has made it really easy. Keep up the great work.
Haven´t even seen the video to it´s end yet - I will, I will - just awesome. Will follow it to the end and then again. Thanks a lot - have to continue :-)
Thanks! I appreciate you watching!
Just purchased Luminar AI and Aurora HDR from Skylum with your discount code, because you deserve all the credit for showing how easy it is for a beginner to use.
Much appreciated Jim! Thanks very much. I hope you enjoy using them. i've got a fair bit of training on my channel including a 30 minute getting started with Luminar AI video, but please just reach out in the comments if you have any specific questions! 😀
Excellent video. Keep going!
Thanks Kent. I appreciate the feedback. Cheers, Anthony :)
Very well done.
Very well tutored,thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
very nice tuto !
Glad you liked it! Thanks Marc 😀
Thank you very much
You are welcome
Great video
Excellent tutorial.
Many thanks!
Thanks for that Anthony, bought Aurora and was a bit worried about using it correctly. After watching your vid i feel a bit more confident and look forward to what happens next with my photography. Great videos by the way, keep em coming. 👍😎
Great to hear John!
Great job thank you very much. Subscribed :)
Cheers Huba. Catch you for the next video :)
Thanks
nice presentation. Impressed with the Aurora software
Glad to hear that Wayne! I've been giving Aurora a good work out today with some architectural photography!
Great video, I'll get Aurora!!!
Nice one Nils. Don't forget your discount with my code ATSKY10 😀
thank you so mch
You're welcome!
Cheers, Ant. Just binge watched this, Aurora HDR and Luminar AI vids. I just bought the 2021 Xmas package. I now feel i have a good understanding of all three (I get Neo too when available in Feb 22) and look forward to making my pictures pop. I only film using a drone it shoots raw and has 5 AEB, pretty sure all photos will be on that setting to give me max flexibility to get it right in post.
Thank you , thank you, thank you :)
As a fellow photographer I can safely say that was a well paced informative video. Just subbed.
I like the fact you are not overly editing and assuming prior knowledge.
Thanks.
Thanks for the sub and the comment!
Liked n subscribed mate.... a very informative vid! :)
Nice one Paul. Cheers pal 👍
very informative video...and clearly and simply explained...a great help to a technophobe such as myself!
Great to hear! Thank you🙏
I just bought a Nikon D5300 for its auto-bracketing feature to make capturing HDR sequence photos easier, in particular landscapes in Utah's canyon country.
thanks man
No problem!
Excellent! I like using the bracketing feature in my Fuji but I want post processing to be a little easier. I bought Aurora and have been coming back to this great presentation for tips. Thanks!
Thanks Sharon. Which Fuji do you have. I'm thinking of adding the xt-4 to my currently Nikon only line-up. But predominantly just for vlogging and more videos onsite and in the field for this channel....
Awesome video, Mr. Turnham… I just discovered your channel, and subscribed in just a few minutes…. I am still learning HDR, and this vid has been very helpful… Thank you very much for what you do…. Will be watching more of your videos….
Awesome, thank you!
Actually these subject tend to be a very for a beginner. But by watching your video I've got some idea about dynamic range. Nice explanation. Very well done👍
Glad it was helpful!
I’m really happy that I found your channel because I’m a beginning photographer and I would prefer to learn to edit my own work & Lightroom isn’t easy to use and the customer support is difficult because of the language barrier.
This has been very helpful -- thanks. I have owned Aurora for several years but never got beyond using the presets. While having another look, I remembered it can create an HDR from a single RAW, and that it is possible to export iPhone RAW files from iPhoto.
Great video. Thank you for making me spend even more money with Skylum!
So pleased I stumbled across this video Anthony - I've been getting back into photography and this was so helpful, checked out the Aurora software and downloaded it... now that is a superb piece of software, intuitive and so easy to put great images together. Thanks so much for putting this video together :-)
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks.
You're welcome
Thank you. I believe I am going to try Arora. I am currently using a different software that I am happy with but you did such a great job explaining how Arora can help me get the end result I am looking for that I am going to give it a try. Thanks again!
Ty...new sub
Nice one Ron!
Wow....no kidding....that might be one of the very best instructional videos I have ever seen! I am in real estate, and the blown-out windows are always a problem when taking interior shots. This is EXACTLY what I need! Your delivery and style is perfect. I just want to make sure. I only need Aurora....correct? Not Lightroom or Photoshop? I just bought an HP Spectre 360.....will be getting that all set up..........and the first program I will add is Aurora. I'll be shooting with a Canon 70D. I'll be sure to watch the instructions on shooting HDR with the 70D. Thanks again.....great video!!! -Bob in StL
Hi Bob. I appreciate the feedback on the video. Yes, you're right from an HDR point of view, Ie combining blown out windows with the interior of rooms yes - Aurora should give you some really good results. It has other tools to help enhance the overall image too. A worthy addition to take things further is Luminar (made by the same company) as you're able to do sky replacement with one click using it's inbuilt AI. That's come to the rescue for me on a couple of architecture shots on drab days! But as a starter, Aurora would be great and potentially all you need. ATSKY10 should get you a discount of $10 too. bit.ly/2TfoisF_HDR.
this is more practical and realistic content
Cheers Danny
Thank you for breaking it down! Very useful and simply explained! Now as I got my mirrorless camera I started to dig into this interesting world of photography. One thing I knew for certain from this video is that HDR in smartphones probably do all the work by the software, since I don't feel like my phone actually take couple of photos and then stich them together. And hence the result is not as perfect as it may be if you do it with bracketing. A question - is there a visible difference to use aperture priority rather than a shutter priority?
Yes, definitely there's a difference. By changing your aperture you're changing the depth of field between shots. So some frames will be less sharp in areas than others making them inconsistent to merge successfully. You want to change shutter speed to vary the exposure, not the aperture. Thanks for the great question!
Delighted to have discovered this video and have subscribed to your channel. Your low-key style of instruction is so welcome in a world full of shouting (as well as under-qualified RUclipsrs who should definitely find a different profession). For years, especially when using slide film, I have routinely bracketed scenes with challenging lighting, with the intention of processing with HDR, but as you alluded, finding a capable as well as intuitive program was elusive.
What brought me to your video, however, was doing some landscape shooting this week with my Canon 5D4 and a film era 20mm MF lens mounted via adapter. Short story: Using camera's viewfinder, I was getting wildly overexposed results. Switching to live view (and same settings!) results were much better, but still not wonderful. I then happened to remember the 5D4 has internal HDR - quite the revelation, even with conservative settings. But your demonstration of the Aurora program reminded me of how much more control and finesse can be brought to the process, when doing traditional bracketing. I'll look forward to trying out the Aurora HDR and, of course, viewing more of your instructional videos. Thanks!
Thank you Steve!
WoW what a great explanation to everyone's problem as beginners, this what I m talking about, thank you pls, can we get intouch ?
Thanks. Posting comments ont he videos is the best way to keep in touch. Cheers! 😀
@@AnthonyTurnham because I wanted to show you my pics so you ll find me on instagram, I will post them there.
Nice mike..!
Thanks!
Hey Anthony, outstanding video! I apologize that it's taken me so long to see this, I'm working my way into HDR work so I'm definitely a rookie when it comes to this. My background in real estate, so I was going to focus more on architectural photography so I can't wait to start building up my portfolio with what I've learned today! I actually have 2 questions for you: Which format (RAW or JPEG) do I need to shoot in order to upload my shots into the Aurora software? Also I use Photoshop primarily on my monthly Adobe package subscription... in your opinion should I drop the $60 monthly package and purchase the Aurora software or just keep both?
Hi David. Thanks for the feedback and glad you liked the video! I always shoot raw files but I convert them to tiff for uploading to Aurora. Tiff holds the full 16bits of colour data so I prefer that over jpeg. With regards to your subscription to Adobe... personally, I'd have both (which I do!) because yes Aurora is brilliant for HDR but Photoshop shines in so many areas that you just can't neglect it if you want to go deeper into architectural photography. Best of luck with the updated portfolio! :)
Hello Anthony, first of all I love your videos and this programs are by far the best that you have introduce to me in your videos and the way you explain everything in detail my friend is just clear as water. It has being a lot of help as I just bought this software myself. But I am not so sure if I am saving the pictures the right way and I am not sure where I am saving them to. Could you give me a bit of your help please? On how I can go back to that save pictures, I will appreciate it a lot.
Hi Geovani. Cheers for the comment and question! So save the files to your place of choice (not very helpful so far I know :) ). Where that is is a whole topic in itself. Personally I have a fast SSD drive I save things to while I'm actively working on them. They're later all backed up to various places. If you're on PC for now your C drive will suffice. Go to the menu, choose save and save the file in the .mpaur2 format. This will allow you to go back to make adjustments to the edit within Aurora. When you want to save what you've done as an image to share, put on the web, print etc. go to export and export it as a jpeg file. Or if you want to edit it further in any other program, a Tiff is a good option.
Hope that points you in the right direction :)
I have been very confused as this is a new computer...I mean camera..lol. So much more to learn about. You are great at explaining the process without muddying the water or causing un due stress for the individual watching your video. Thanks for sharing. I believe that light room and adobe photoshop 21 have this capability?
Hi Sandra. Glad you like the video :) Yes, PS21 has an HDR function but as it's not a dedicated HDR software it's not quite as good at it, imho. Lightroom can combine the different exposures into one dng file but you then need to bring back the shadow/highlights etc. yourself. So it's kinda HDR but not a complete solution.
Thanks for the video. You did a great job explaining the work flow. I have wanted to take and process HDL photos for a few years. I haven't because the two programs I have do not do a very good job with HDL or it's my inexoerience. In anycas the results are often fake looking. So this program looks to be the answer.
When you were showing the program I notice a series of photos at the bottom of the screen. Are those different presets that the program is suggesting?
What if you took more than 7 photos? Does it make your ,final photo any better.
Lastly, can you save the finished photo as a TIFF file?
Hi. Good questions! Yes, I've found Aurora to give the most natural results. Those are possible presets at the bottom. I think they may be ones I created for different jobs. The number of photos you use only makes the finished result better IF the original scene has a very large difference between the darkest and the brightest part. 7 stops of bracketed images is more than enough in most cases. Yes you can save as a lovely 16bit TIFF with proPhoto colorspace if you want optimum information in the output file.
Thank you for the video - it was quite helpful in understanding this. I've just started photography and am using my daughter's Nikon D3400 until I figure out what camera I want. I know that it doesn't have exposure bracketing. However, could I simply use the exposure compensation adjustment and leave the other settings alone? Or, adjust the shutter speed to get varying exposures with all other settings the same? Thank you.
Hiya. Yes, you're on the right lines with both of those ideas. Personally I'd opt for shooting in manual mode and changing the shutter speed. But, both ways would get you the bracketed shots to get going with in the HDR software. Just be careful if you're making changes to the camera and touching it that you don't bump it. Auto align can correct misaligned shots due to slight movements, but it's best to get it right in camera if you can.
Best of luck for your photography journey! :)
PSA: you don't need a shutter release trigger if you have a modern DSLR or Mirrorless camera. Many modern cameras allow you to connect your phone to your camera and get limited control (setting changes, see what the camera sees, shutter release, etc). That said, if you have an older camera, or a camera that doesn't have built-in wifi or Bluetooth, you'll probably need a shutter release trigger.
Just wanted to throw that out there...
Cheers for the comment. I like having a remote trigger but equally using the camera's self-timer does the job too.
Excellent video. I was looking for the link for Aurora. Can you provide the link?
macphun.evyy.net/c/1304886/513351/3255 Use code ATSKY10 for a discount! Thanks for the compliment on the vid :) Funnily enough, I've just been using Aurora to merge some architectural shots I recently took.
awesome vid. Can we saved the merged images as a raw image?
Good question Kyle. Saving as a 16bit Tiff in ProPhoto color space is the best bet for saving maximum data into the file. Saving as raw is what is captured directly to the camera's sensor so it's not an option during the editing stage.
Super helpful. Isn’t there a camera that does this in the camera itself now?
A lot of smart phones can do it in camera. Never anywhere near as good as doing it yourself with dedicated software, but pretty good all the same.
Great video. I enjoyed it very much. My questions is this, the 4 photos you used in your example, do they remain as originals on the camera roll? Thank you.
I'm not entirely sure I'm getting what you mean by the camera roll. But, the new HDR version is an exclusive file. A new file created. The original images (files) remain as they were. You don't lose them in the process. Thanks for the question. Does that answer it? Cheers for watching :)
It's a lot of fun eh Trev. Thanks for the feedback. Enjoy creating :)
@@AnthonyTurnham Yes, that does answer my question. I did not want to lose the original photos when using HDR. Thanks.
Tony, is it possible to do both HDR and focus stacking with a series of images? Great video. Thanks.
Yes - and no. You'd need to approach it in two passes. First combine your shots into HDR processed versions. Then do you focus stacking process at the end. (Aurora doesn't natively do focus stacking, I still do mine in photoshop)
I’m interested in knowing what is focus stacking is.
Great video - gotta kill those power poles, though.
this looks the closest to Aperture.. thank you! Great instructing! Is this as simple and fast, anyone used that and is this a good supplement for? thank you!
Kathy, it's really easy to use. It does all the heavy lifting of creating HDR for you. Which I love :) I used to use a few other bits of software and I was always disappointed by unrealistic results. Thanksfully - not anymore.
Anthony Turnham thank you so much I’m going to give it a try! Thanks again Anthony
Hi Anthony, thanks for producing this tutorial! You're helping me so much. My Canon camera produces RAW images in .CR3 files, but (as of today) Aurora does not support this format. Until it does, do you agree that I should convert my RAW files to DNG format for HDR processing in Aurora?
Hi Edward. .dng, tiff or even good old jpegs work pretty well if you have a set of 3 or more. Personally I'd go tiff 16bit. Takes longer to render the result but I always like to have the maximum quality to work with. But I'm pedantic about it. Use jpegs and the average viewer wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
Edward - I hate to step in here since this is Anthony's video and he recommend Aurora, but as a general consumer like you, I should warn you: DO NOT BUY AURORA. I've been doing research and the developers of Aurora have no interest in updating their software to support .CR3 and other camera RAWs (Fujifilm, newer Nikons/Canons, etc). For years, they've been telling customers to "Convert your RAWs to .DNG files using Adobe's convertor" which is an absolute waste of time and defeats the purpose of having HDR editing software that can't even support the images taken out of your camera.
Anthony thanks a lot for this informative video. I've got one question. I currently have Lightroom (Lr) is Aurora part of lightroom or another program all together?
Hi Delta! Thanks for the comment and question :) Much appreciated. So Aurora is a standalone program but it also serves as a plug-in that can be called into action via Lightroom. So, although not part of Lightroom, it works in conjunction with Lightroom - IF that's how you choose to use it.
Anthony Turnham thank you sir .
Great video! I have a question I selected the HDR mode for a portrait photography on a landscape... and it actually looked great. But you said no portraits?
Well the reason portraits aren't usually a good option for hdr is two fold. The first is that the dynamic range shouldn't be so great that you can't get a full dynamic range captured in one shot, thus rendering hdr unnecessary. Secondly it's very possible your subject will move between the bracketed shots so the frames won't merge accurately.
Landscapes and architecture often need higher dynamic ranges and often don't suffer from movement. That's why they suit HDR.
Great Video. I want to try the Aurora software for my first HDR. I hope the discount code still works. For my camera, should I use camera raw files? Does the result of the HDR photo show up better on 10 bit HDR monitor? How does the monitor know it is HDR photo? For your professional editing what monitor are you using? Sorry so many questions!
Hi Roger, I believe ATSKY10 is still active! (Let me know) . The monitor I use is listed in the vid description. It's this amzn.to/346A64E. Yes, shoot raw. Don't forget the idea of HDR is to take information that lies outside of standard viewing devices and then creates a merged version that compresses that tonal range into a visually acceptable range. So really the 10-bit monitor is kinda redundant because you want your output file to look good on as an 8bit image. If you want to do further editing you want to create a 16bit AdobeRGB or ProPhoto file, but, that's just to give the software more latitude for further changes while keeping nice smooth gradients etc.
Hopefully that makes sense.... Bottom line is, yes you want a good colour accurate monitor, but it's not really so you can see HDR files better. You're creating an HDR file to bring back highlight and shadow detail in a believable way and display it on normal accessible screens, or print within printable gamuts. A good monitor will help with colour accuracy, less eye strain, being able to see the file you're working on better and generally give you a better and more enjoyable experience when working. 👍
the software links are dead. subd! thanks man
Thanks for the sub! I checked the links and it seemed to work okay on my desktop... sorry not sure what the issue is there? But just for good measure, try this macphun.evyy.net/c/1304886/309505/3255. Don't forget you can use ATSKY10 to get a discount if you're buying the software :)
Wonderful explanation. :) I am new to photography and just bought myself a Fujifilm X-T4. It can do HDR in camera. How do you think the quality of this compares to using software? Thanks!
Hi Stefan. Couldn't say for sure as I've never done a direct comparison. However, in my experience, dedicated software usually outperforms in-camera operations.
@@AnthonyTurnham Thanks.
Can you please show us how to do the bracketing manually? I've got a basic dslr that doesn't have auto bracketing and would love to see what settings are best for that
Hi Samuel. The easiest way to do it manually would be to shoot in manual mode on a tripod. Set up the camera with what the meter says would give you a good exposure. Then simply change the shutter speed to half that and take another shot. Then double your original shutter speed and take one more. This would give you a series of 3 images that are effectively bracketed 1 stop apart. You could take one more image either side by again halving or doubling the shutter time to get a series of 5 if that were needed to cover all the shadow and highlight detail.
Hope that helps :)
BTW just make sure you don't move the camera when changing your settings!
I bought the package that included Aurora. It looks so grain like and pixelated I can’t figure out why I would want to use Aurora yet but lunar 4 is pretty dope
Aurora is all about bringing together photos that have different exposure values and a high range of contrast into one photo that can then be edited.
Hi, just found your channel and really enjoy how you present. So you say that the only thing you change to get the bracketing is the shutter speed, how far either side of the camera recommended value? So if it's going to shoot in auto at 1/250 are you going 1/500 and 1/125? Thanks
For most cases that's correct. I like to bracket 5 exposures. So you're moving up +1 +2 stops and down -1 and -2 stops from the cameras "correct" reading. Some scenes with more contrast need 7 or even 9 but usually 5 will suffice. So in your example 1/250th base, 1/1000th, 1/500th, 1/125th and 1/60th.
@@AnthonyTurnham great thanks.
💥Excellent video. Is there a free trial version of Aurora.?? 🤟🏼
Hi mate. Unfortunately Aurora was discontinued about a month ago.
@@AnthonyTurnham No way. I wonder why.
I have a question bought aurora ,do you need photoshop to run it or is it a stand alone soft ware
I’m only interested it for hdr
Thank you for a great Video you are truly a pro in every way
Thanks! Aurora runs as a standalone app or a plugin.
great tutorial!!! My only question that I don't see answered is why did you use Manual Focus instead of Auto Focus?
And great question. I like to switch to manual focus before running the bracketed set just so that I know there's no focus hunting going on during the series. Bu all means use auto focus to first find the focus, but then I recommend just switch your camera or lens to manual and you know the focus will definitely stay consistent throughout the series of exposures.
@@AnthonyTurnham got it. Thank you so much!