HOW TO Photograph SUNRISES and SUNSETS
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2024
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In this video, I’ll teach you my tips for capturing all the data you need out in the field and how to edit that to get a great final image!
With modern cameras capturing a high dynamic range is easier than ever. But, I still see many people struggling once they get the RAW files back in the computer.
Hopefully, this video will give you some tips you can use to make sure you don't end up with unusable images or images that didn't capture the range of light you were hoping for!
Enjoy!
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00:00:48 - What is HDR?
00:02:28 - Shooting towards the sun?@#%!
00:03:00 - Understanding your camera’s sensor
00:05:03 - Finding the shot
00:08:42 - Composing the frame
00:10:26 - Checking the RAW files
00:13:38 - The histogram is your friend
00:15:00 - Photoshop editing for high dynamic range
00:15:49 - The shadow slider
00:16:09 - Boosting the exposure
00:16:30 - Recovering details in the highlights
00:17:10 - Using linear gradients
00:18:30 - Improving light using a brush
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I too love shooting towards the sun, have done for yrs, your channel has been helpful regarding digital photography, thanks
Just saw this one today. Very useful - I also like very much to shoot into the sun. Autumn and winter is my favourite seasons for photography, often excellent light but from a low sun. I have often tried exposure bracketing, but often find that all I need is the (slightly) underexposed one because I can lift the shadows enough to get a good picture. I also mostly shoot handheld whenever I can get away with it.
Great format!!!! Great shot!!!!!
I like the part about decision making on all the different things it takes to make an image.
Thanks Will, I love that you take your time, you don’t take your camera out until you know exactly what you want. I’m like a kid in a candy store, with the camera, just snapping away. I need to be more like you, but most of the time I don’t know what I want or sometimes how to achieve what I want. I will take my time from now on and I will look at options before snapping at everything. Cheers Will.
No right or wrong mate. Once I start shooting I often keep the shutter going and just have fun with the landscape. Still good to be thoughtful and have direction though, that’s for sure. Thanks a lot.
Another superb video - full of solid tips. Thanks you Will! 🙏
Love your explanations, simple no bullshit information, like the fact that you explained about only capturing data not trying to get great photo straight out of camera, that you showed the raw file and histogram, clarified a lot for me. Thanks heaps.
Haha, thanks mate!
Great balance between in the field shooting and editing the image. Plenty of useful tips. Thank you for sharing Will.
Thanks a lot John. Always appreciate it mate 🙏🏻
That tip of using brush with haze is cool, thanks!
No problem! 👊🏻
Thank you for the beautiful video. I like way you present the subjects, simple and clear. found your channel by chance and now I'm diving in to it.
Awesome, thank you! Hope you enjoy the rest 🙏🏻🙏🏻😊
“You are just going out there and getting the data”. Brilliant little gem there, Will! I think with that little phrase you may have unlocked a bit of my mental block around digital photography! When I transitioned from film to digital I hated all the futzing-at-the-computer time, so much so that I dropped photography as a hobby for about 20 years. Just getting back into it. Your Landscape Masterclass and these videos have helped immensely. Now I just need to upgrade my camera (1st gen DSLR.). Nonetheless, keeping with another of your mantras (“the best camera is the one on your hand”) I’ve managed to get some shots in recent months that are vast improvements and to use your tips to get images I am starting to feel proud of. Thanks for your fabulous instruction!
Wow, I’m really pleased to hear that. Thanks so much for the support and taking the time to write such a comment. All the best with the new chapter 💪🏼📸
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I am a bit of a data nerd so this all suddenly makes sense…
Super useful video William thanks.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Brilliant! Thank you. ✌️
Extremely helpful. You have the eye of a painter.
Very kind, thank you 🙏🏻
Amazing! Thanks so much.
Beautiful image, beautiful location and great instruction as always Will
Thanks alot mate!
Amazing video bro.. really like your explanations and your style.. thank you
Thanks a lot mate. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel 🙏🏻🙏🏻
yours and mads pete iverson style of landscape imaging are the best in my opinion! your landscape masterclass has also given me a big boost in the quality of my images. thanks a lot for your invaluable lessons.
Thanks so much !!
Learned a lot ....! Glad I found your channel ...
Thanks and welcome!
Very inspired, and tks for the explanation of how to choose the right composition at the right moment.
Thank you friend 👊🏻
Excellent points all around, from the actual composition and shooting to the post work. Yes, forcing an image that one sees in their mind is rarely successful and often obvious in the end result. It's all about being aware of one's surroundings and being flexible (even when getting bitten lol). I have always loved shooting into the light, something we all once had drilled into our brains that was a no-no. I always enjoy seeing other's approaches to such light conditions, especially when working in Photoshop (I just never embraced LR since I feel I've better control in PS). Excellent video, for this covered a lot of things I learned the hard way with experimentation over the years. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the support and thoughtful comment mate. Hope you enjoy the rest of my channel 🙏🏻😊
Great tutorial, thanks!
Thanks! 🙏🏻
Great job
Thank for the insights Will
No worries Jane. Thanks :)
Awesome video Will. Great work flow in camera Raw. Definitely enjoying the DR of my new R5. Amazing what you can capture and recover. Thanks for this video.
It’s certainly a great time to be a photographer. Thanks mate!
Great video and info. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant Will, I think I have been doing more than a few things wrong. Thanks.
Thanks Glenn!
Great video Will, I recently jumped to the Sony a7riva the dynamic range is incredible. I'd never be able to push the shadows that much with my old crop sensor.
Absolutely. This is the main reason I switched from the Canon 5DII to the first Sony A7R, almost 10 years ago, haha. It really simplifies the workflow that's for sure. Enjoy!
The implementation of negative dehaze is a winner.
One of my favourite techniques :)
inspiring, thank you.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Excellently produced practical demonstration of handling high dynamic range image making. Re: using the gradient on the sky, I use darktable to edit my raw files. It too has a gradient mask but with an added feature. You can add a curve to the mask to a greater or lesser degree which helps to deal with scenes like valleys. mountains, cliffs etc. It can also be combined with a parametric mask to handle differing luminosity and or hue to create a more targeted mask. I used to use Adobe Photoshop but now I find I can get better results with darktable. BTW, darktable is free and available on all three major platforms, i.e. Windows, Mac and Linux.
Thank you for the video, I have subscribed.
Thanks for subscribing and for the kind words!
Brilliant and clearly explained. Thanks.
My wife enjoyed this video too, and she's not particularly interested in photography. I suspect some other element caught her eye! 🤣
😂 haha. Thanks mate. I hope you (and her) enjoy the rest of the channel 😆🙏🏻
Thanks for this Will.. really clear and concise.. love it. One question. It looks like you took the photo handheld, but at 1/25 doesn’t that create less focus ?
Hey MC. Thanks! Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus or sharpness, it's simply the speed at which the shutter opens and closes to let light enter the camera. If it is dark, we need slower shutter, and brighter will need a faster shutter. If you go too slow on the shutter, the image could be blurry if you are not steady. In this case, that speed is more than fine for me. I often shoot much slower handheld and don't use a tripod at all. Commonly, people would be on a tripod. Hope that clears things up. More info on this video here ruclips.net/video/W1rVVUwYYU4/видео.html
Thank you for the video. Do you ever use filters, CPL or ND?
My pleasure. No, I don't bother with them. Probably been at least 6 years or so since I last did. Same for the tripod.
Just came across your video and really enjoyed it. One question though: when shooting into the sun how do you deal sun flare? Cheers.
Thanks. Some lenses are worse than others with flares. It’ll mainly happen when the sun is hitting the lens on an angle, so try and adjust your comp so you are more front on to the sun, plus make sure the sun isn’t too bright and high above the horizon. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel mate. Cheers.
Loved the video. Any thoughts on bracketing exposures? The Sony A7R's have got continuous bracketing as a drive mode so it's an easy task to shoot, but more effort in post.
Thank you! Yeah that definitely is an option if the dynamic range is struggling but you’ll be surprised how much can be obtained in the single exposure. I don’t use a tripod so I’ll sometimes use bracketing to get a slower exposure for water flow, then blend that into one the faster/sharp exposure.
I´d like to save this video to my digital shelf to see it again, but I cannot. Can you activate the saving? Thanks.
Hey Will, when shooting landscape photos like you were just doing at the beach is it better to use a larger aperture as in F 16,F 11 or should you use a smaller aperture’s F5,F6 or F7. Definitely enjoy your videos keep up the good work.
Hey Paul :) The f-stop is all about your depth of field, and whether you have something near to you, as well as something far away in the frame. If that’s the case, you’ll want a narrow aperture like F/11, F/16 etc however if you are shooting a scene that is ‘flat’ then the f-stop is somewhat irrelevant and you can’t go wrong. An example of that could be a mountain peak several miles away where you have nothing close to you. Hope that helps. In this video because I had the flax close to me as well as the stacks in the distance, then F/16 was required to be sharp all the way through. Hope that helps!
Really glad RUclips recommended this video as I have moved to an area that is permanently strong sunlight, so I am off to try this out. Do you use ND Filters or is it purely as mentioned shutter speed? Slight caveat I am using a Sony Xperia 1V as a camera
I don’t use any ND filters at all. Thanks for the support and I hope you enjoy the rest of the channel. Cheers 👊🏻
Excellent video. Can you explain how you prevented flare in your raw shot into the sun?
Thanks a lot mate. Flare will occur when the sun is stronger (higher in the sky) and when it’s hitting the lens on more of a side angle. Shooting front on like this in low light generally doesn’t make a flare. Some lenses are also worse than others for it.
Great video, great pics! Where was that location??? That looked like a great place to shoot!
Thanks a lot! Motukiekie, South Island NZ 👊🏻
Awesome
Thank you 🙏🏻
Speaking of lights and sunset, I have a question. Do you know of a photo of/with a sunset that shows the sun red as we see it? Do you know how to shoot it? All of mine show just a white overburn circle (a very, very light very very bright golden at best, if you care to think about it that way ) and I think all the others I've seen as well.
Very useful video, thanks!
I am experimenting showing my edited HDR photos on my HDR enabled TV. I know how to do this for video, but I have so far not found a workflow for stills. Do you have any tips?
That's because people mean too many things when mentioning "HDR". The channel owner was talking about exposure bracketing and his "own" exposure blending techniques of cramming high dynamic range into a standard SDR image.
What you are talking about is *true* HDR that comes with different specifications and names like HDR10, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision. THAT HDR apart from having wider color gamut and 10 to 12 bits per color also contains particular as they called it "metadata", even though to me it appears more of a separate layer instead.
So far, I found quite a few image formats supporting true HDR: EXR and OpenEXR, JPEG XR, HEIC (most likely) and to a certain extent good old TIFF (if you can call that mess a "format" in the first place). You might want to install the HDR + WCG Image Viewer app (on Windows) that can visualize the "Luminance Heatmap" apart from actually showing the HDR image itself. That "heatmap" seems to be the layer telling the software the luminance distribution on the screen. So, in theory, if you get to editing it, you should be able to find a light source in your photo and boost it all the way to 1,000 nits or do something similar. Judging by that "image viewer" app the process might not be as straightforward, considering the way the Brightness slider in it affects the map among other things, but still it should be close to that.
The problem is, so far I haven't found a way to get access to editing the heatmap metadata itself using free solutions. I guess Photoshop will have to come next...
Either way, I'm afraid this "branch of photography" is in its infancy at the moment, so most likely you won't find much info on it. But if you'll have something dug up, please share as well.
Most likely the suite to use with HDR10 and such photos is also DaVinci Resolve - apparently it can export images including EXR and TIFF.
Is it necessary to shoot in the morning or evening to photograph sunrises or sunsets? It's inconvenient to my schedule.
Love your ethos too of don’t force it… sometimes you forsake enjoyment of the moment because of the desperation to get an image, which is so counterproductive … I think I’m having another shift in mindset 🙂
100% Thanks so much Fi!
Hi. Can you use an ND filter and achieve similar results with a longer exposure?
ND filter just darkens the whole scene, like wearing sunglasses. So, the camera will need a longer exposure. I’d still expose the same was as I have shown here, shooting for highlights. Keep in mind, if you are exposing too long, there’s the risk of the plants moving in the breeze and blurring.
West Coast usa or Australia.. probably Australia based on accent and plants. Beautiful none the less.
West Coast, South Island New Zealand.
Very helpful! Enjoyed this. I have been so disappointed with the lack of dynamic range in modern cameras. 😫Even when I shoot raw & process the photos the colors never seem to look as natural as my iPhone colors. I think if I could figure out a consistent editing style to quickly edit photos I’ll stick with photography, but otherwise I feel ready to give up until cameras evolve. Once I have more money I’m hoping to order your course.
Thanks Mel. You need to keep in mind that the iPhone does an auto edit on all images and video and even auto exposure blend to handle the dynamic range. With our digital cameras and RAW files, we need to bring out those details later in processing. More work but far greater detail and results are possible. Once you get the knack of editing and develop your own workflow it gets way easier and more rewarding :)
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography yes I think I just need to find a consistent editing style that looks natural & is fast. Your videos help a lot!
This is super helpful and interesting, thank you. Question: I'm still thinking in terms of film. In film, you overexpose to be sure you get details. In digital, I understand you underexpose? Is this how you get the details? What do you mean highlights? Do you mean details? How do you determine where you focus? Is it a different spot for each of the HDR shots (e.g., foreground, middle, and distance?) How do you "shoot for the highlights?"
Expose as bright as possible until the highlight details are about to be lost. Then in post we recover the shadow details. For focus please check my other videos where I cover that. Also there is a video on the histogram, which will help you with exposure.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thank you! I love your work. I don't see the histogram video.
Whats the chance (particularly with mirrorless) of damaging the sensor?
Zero.
Same question
Great video...question...because I don't have a full frame camera like you...can I still get away with 1 exposure in Photoshop because of the limited dynamic range of the sensor on my Canon EOS t6i. Really appreciate your vlog!
Thanks! It’ll be a little harder, mainly because of the dynamic range. You’ll potentially need two exposures. Try with the single first and worse case you’ll need to exposure blend.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thanks again Will have a good day today!
What an absolutely fascinating video! One image in place of 3 for HDR photography. I currently have a Nikon D50 (10.7 Dynamic Range) so I will stick to HDR for now. But I plan to get a D5600 soon (14 Dynamic Range) which will be more suitable for your method described here.
Just liked and subbed, and clicked the link for your free photography course. Can't wait to dive into it and enjoy more of your RUclips content. After putting my photography hobby on ice for 10-12 yrs I am now retired and able to get back into it!
Thanks a lot mate, really stoked to hear that and I look forward to having you part of the community. Reach out anytime!
PS if you can, have a look at mirrorless, something like the z7ii or z8. I know it’ll cost more but the tech is far better, especially for handheld shooting, dynamic range etc
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Would love to go mirrorless, but can’t affird the Z-series body, let alone all new lenses. That’s okay though. I’m not discouraged. With the quality of images I’ve produced with my trusty old D50 in the past I’ve no doubt I’ll improve with the D5600… and with tips and guidance from people like you. Cheers!
@@dirkgibbens377 Yes definitely, just have to work with what you can. The improved dynamic range will help a lot :)
Thanks, I've been hesitant because of fear of burning out the Sencor.
No worries!
Really good
Thank you 🙏🏻
Thank you for that very helpful and informative video.
It appeared that you didn't use a tripod, which it seems to me that, for critical work where you want sharp as a tack results, that would be helpful if not a sine quo non. Or did you just not show that part of the shoot? I would be concerned shooting at 1/25th of a second about blurring.
I found the idea of taking care of the highlights as you showed very interesting and will make a point of trying it out. I downloaded the video for future reference.
Thanks for the support. I don’t use a tripod in my work, check out some more of my videos. With a stabilised camera you can certainly shoot slow shutters handheld and get tack sharp images. Cheers!
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thank you. Now I know.
I will look at more it your videos.
Wow. It seems I found a channel where it is explained in clear language how to do what I want. It often happens that you see one thing and want to capture it, but it turns out to be garbage. And I feel like a dog - I understand, but I can’t say it) Thank you so much for the video. Great job. Like and subscribe.
Haha, thanks a lot. Keep getting out there and it will all come together for you soon. I appreciate the support and hope you enjoy the rest of my channel :)
I'm assuming you can do all of this with Lightroom as well? I'm learning editing technics it's new to me.
Yeah mate. Check some of my processing videos which work both in PS and LR 👊🏻
Hey Will. I just found this video and I really do appreciate it. Gave it a "Thumbs Up"!! My question - and I've never seen this addressed "comfortably" for me - is how to view the sun without causing damage to your eyes. We've been taught since we were wee ones to never, ever look straight into the sun. How to best do that? Through the view finder? Live View? And at the same time achieve proper and sharp tack focus? And it would seem to be different between a sunrise and a sunset - I'm thinking of the huge balls os un we oftener see at sunset vs. the smaller ones at sunrise. Can you suggest a solution or a work process? Thanks agains for a really great video. Keep these coming!
Thanks mate. You don't look directly at the sun, it's still just going to be in your peripheral vision. No need to look straight at it. Keep in mind, when it's close to the horizon it is weaker due to the surface area it is dispersing light, so you can look at it briefly for sure. For focus, just check my other videos addressing that. Cheers :)
Thank you very much and I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly with this helpful information! Best wishes.@@WilliamPatinoPhotography
High Will, great video thank you. (1) Are you using Lightroom Classic? (2) Has your whole Seascape video been done using the latest version of LR please Will?
Hi Les. I primarily use Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) as shown in this video. This is what I use in the seascape course. However, as you can see in this video, the layout and design is almost identical as LR and it’s easy to transfer techniques between the two. Thanks :)
Thank you very much Will.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I was scrolling through the comments to find something about this. Is there a reason why you use ACR over LR or is it more habit or personal preference?
@@RossHa1e complete personal preference. I like just using and know one program and also prefer the simple layout of ACR. I also prefer to save my own raw files manually via a simple drag and drop, so I have no need for LRs cataloguing. As far as the art is concerned, there’s literally no difference and I can get the same results using either program, which is great from a teaching perspective.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I was hoping that was your answer. I use LR for my portraits and it makes more sense when dealing with a lot of images to use LR. I just had to make sure I wasn't making my landscape photography harder by not using ACR. Thanks for your time
Which would give you more dynamic range, ETTR and one stop under exposed, or using Exposure Bracketing?
Bracketing can always capture more because you’re taking more than one frame, but you need to rely on more work in post. Most modern sensors are more than fine to expose to the right and reveal details in post. I haven’t bracketed for dynamic range in many years.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I have an old camera that has an HDR in-camera processing feature so will try that and see how that compares for backlight scenes with ETTR and One stop underexposing. Thanks for your feedback.
Hey bud you reckon there is vid in the works to see what gear you use ?? Cheers
Hey, I made one for my newsletter subscribers which you can find here: ruclips.net/video/GSnFQ3CnGb8/видео.html
I'd like to know how you got outta there in the dark!
Wait until sunrise 😂🤪
💕💕
How about extreme dynamic range?
You’d need to shoot two exposures and blend them. Pretty rare scenario with todays modern sensors, but if your camera is older with less dynamic range you’ll need to blend.
I tried using my Sony 90mm f2.8 into a red setting sun - It ended up looking like one of those optician's eyeball scans, but created some weird images. Broke all the rules, but hey!!!
When I think hdr, I think a tone mapped image, not a sky exposure and a foreground exposure.
I love the overall video presentation! No interest in the Grylls style stuff.
You’re missing one piece of critical kit. Mozzie spray.
hehe, that's for sure!
Don't know if you've seen it Wil, but Joel Grimes' video on bracketing and processing those three files in HDR 32-bit might interest you. Check it out at - ruclips.net/video/z4HYksU_7Tg/видео.html All the best mate.
Thanks mate. I much prefer to work from the single file, given the dynamic range we have in the modern cameras. Way faster. I use to blend 2-3 files back in the day though, with the early digital cameras. Cheers.
would be good if you brought the music level down in future vids so it's not distracting from your narration
This video is 2 years old and the recent ones have certainly evolved.
You didn’t say what you expoed for, I am assuming the sky.
Sorry. Yes, the highlights.
3:45
If people photobombed your shots while walking on the beach, that would have sucked. It's a nice secluded area, a rare thing now days in the United States. Everyone seems to want to be a photographer now days, even if they only have a smartphone to take photos.
You lost me at "great ball of fire". (Astronomer of 9 years). Please read what the sun is made up of... 🙄
Obviously a figure of speech, probably wouldn’t have had the same impact if I mentioned hydrogen, helium, carbon, nitrogen and oxygen 😅