Thank you. Appreciated. Naturally a lot of plumbers don't want small 10 minute jobs even as they would pass by the house anyway. Our old plumber retired and it is almost impossible to find a reasonably priced plumber who won't charge more than half hour call out and parts. Now I have found the parts are only a small amount anyway but our old plumber only charged £30 for small jobs. That was a lot of his work and he did well taking on the small things. One in Chichester through a checkatrade quoted almost £100 for a tap washer replacement. Checkatrade has really gone downhill and I shan't use them again after our last two experiences. I don't know how they are getting high reviews. The one star reviews are horrendous now. Seems they were bought out.
Quite helpful. I attempted replacing mine before watching this video but it was terrible as water was leaking. After watching your video i did the second attempt and there were no leaks. The problem was that on the first attempt I just placed the valve and tightened the nut without pushing the valve further enough. 😂😂
Great video and really helpful info on the flexi tails. You have the knack of explaining things that other youtubers leave out. In this case the reason for flow direction. I bought pegler iso valves recently and neither had a direction of flow arrow. Your explanation of how to work out the direction helped. Thanks!
I thought I knew everything about fitting isolation valves but that tip about the weeping screw was new to me, thanks! I have replaced valves in the past for that problem.
Sometimes it works, I guess a lot depends on the water and how much solids are contained in the water. We use Reverse Osmosis water on site and virtually all the minerals etc. are removed from it- so it is notorious for leaking and not sealing again, whereas with normal water sometimes a weep will seal itself. Thanks for the comment 👍
You know what? I´m subscribing from now on. This was informative enough to feed a family of five. Luckily I have no children. I will use my new knowledge very soon to replace a leaking (as in internal which causes a toilet with a broken sealing to have the water tank filled up within 10 hours even though the valve is closed) isolation valve.
The flat faced straight isolation valves look great, never seen those before and have sometimes struggled when connecting the flexi-tail hoses to get a reliable seal. Cheers for the tip, I'll be looking for some of those as I usually keep a few in the tool box for whenever changing a tap etc, having the isolation valves makes all future maintenance so much easier :) One tip I can share is if you're considering using the handled isolation valves, is to check the screw that retains the handle with a magnet. I've found a large number of these that use thinly plated steel screws that rust quite quickly, a replacement stainless fixing is a cheap fix and saves the handle falling off when the steel fixing rusts through, especially when you need to isolate a pipe in a hurry and the handle is missing due to a rusted fixing :) Keep up the great content :)
V.useful video, with clear explanations and easy to follow. We ended up using 240 wet and dry sandpaper instead of a deburrer as we couldn’t find one in our DIY shop and it worked well.
Agreed they can seize up though mine have been in over 30 years with no problems. Try to avoid the cheaper brands if possible. Lever valves are great when you need to be able to turn off the water very quickly but they need the space to be fitted which is not always possible. Mine are fitted on the supply to the loft tank and the cold water feed to the hot tanks. Much better than gate valves...
They are not that bad to change, you just remove the 8 or 16 bolts on the flanges and split the pipe and insert a new valve with new gaskets. It's often made more difficult because of where they are positioned, so you are normally on your knees with little room to manoeuvre, but there are worse jobs ;-) Thanks for the comment
Yes, those isolation valves are superb. It seems they do sell a 3/8 version- www.bes.co.uk/flat-faced-straight-isolation-valve-15mm-x-3-8-bsp-pm-23640 Thanks for the comment
For pipework where you need a a better flow you can buy the full bore ball a fix valves so there's no restrictions in side the pipework, either with a lever or slot.Great instructional video though
If fitting one in situ 15mm isolation valve on a straight length of pipe how much pipe do you cut out of the pipe for correct operation and installation.👍
Get the proper ones with the wing head their crap go and work on them after been installed a year or two and they start to leak so your back to square one isolating from the main valve to replace one of these.
Great video! How do you measure the amount of copper pipe to cut away to fit the valve? I am doing a UFH supply and return pipe (polypipe system) upstream from the main thermostat - the installer didn't put an isolation valve in! I am not sure about the water flow but logically the hot pipe will flow to the manifold and the cold away from the manifold. What do you think?
Never to be used on an outside tap, use a lever full bore valve, if you get a problem you don’t have to find a screwdriver to turn off. These are a service valve for ball-valve , taps etc you will find that they start to leak through the screwdriver slot after time.
There are a few reasons- 1. When the bathroom was installed it might not have been recommended to install isolation valves. 2. Cost of the valve and the added time to install. 3. Introducing something else that could go wrong in future (isolation valves are great until they start leaking) Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for the reply. I popped into Toolstation yesterday and got a couple of them, then straight after in Wickes I found 22 mm isolating valves with flexible pipe to 3/4", which is pretty much perfect for what I want to do (fit a new bath). They were dead easy to fit - cold tap was dribbling a bit at first, but it seems to have stopped now and no more water has come out overnight.
I was told by a gas fitter years ago, just to use a normal isolation valve, but then the flat faced ones seemed to appear. The flat faced ones are better, because there is less chance or damaging the sealing washer. I have installed lots with normal isolation valves, but always get the flat faced ones now 👍
Yes, only last week I replaced two radiators for a friend and their pipes were 1/2 copper. Normal 15mm olives (copper are best) and 15mm compression fitting worked perfectly 👍
Thanks for the video.....I've used these a lot but find the "seep" on turning the valve on and off quite common and very annoying. I buy the full bore ones and they don't seem to have that problem.
You are welcome I think the full bore ones are better quality. There is nothing more annoying that fitting a valve to make the job easier next time- only for the valve to leak! Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman happened to me tonight! I fitted (cheap) isolators on the tails of a radiator and 4 years later I need to change things. Go to turn the slotted part (after first praying to God) and BOTH of them leaked. Even when I turned it back they leaked. So now they leak permanently:( So I drained down. No way to further isolate or freeze :(
Yes, certainly. You only need a new olive if you are using the fitting on another pipe. In the unlikely event that the olive leaks, just wrap the olive with a little PTFE tape 👍 Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a leak from the isolation valve abutting my cold water storage tank. The unit seems to have a threaded extension from where the leak is coming. The nut to nut dimension is about 69 mm. Is a standard isolation vale OK or do I need a service valve...what is the difference? (I'd like a lever this time). Thank you!!
It sounds like it could be a service valve. There is often a fibre washer in one of those, it is probably damaged and just needs replacing (unless the valve itself is leaking). You can turn the existing valve 90 degrees then replace the washer. If you want to replace the whole valve with a lever type, you will have to isolate the water elsewhere 👍
Good video and well explained. Why would you use a non full bore over a full bore? I am planning to put an isolation valve on a pipe that feeds the toilet cistern, would full bore be better here or non? Space isn't an issue.
Great video as always. at 0:39 the JG speedfit says it cannot be used on central heating systems. If you have new build combi boiler home setup does this rule out all pipework? As when you turn on taps it will cause the boiler to turn on? thanks
Some John Guest speedfit fittings are not suitable for central heating, examples are the isolation valve in this video, and some flexi fittings. All the John Guest regular pipe and fittings can be used on central heating, I'm not sure why some fittings are not suitable- but most are. You can of course use any John Guest fittings on the domestic hot or cold water. Thanks for the comment 👍
Why does it weep from the screw when isolating and turning back on? What would be the reason for it not working to stop the leak? Would you just need a whole new valve?
Question. if you turn off the water from the main supply stopcock in the property. do you need to power off your/combi/condenser boiler. boiler in question is a bosch worcester. tia
Hi, I want to add an isolating valve to a length of 15mm pipe that’s already in place. It runs to an external garden tap. I just want to add it on the internal side of the wall (it runs from a downstairs bathroom) I basically want to cut some length from the middle of the pipe and add the valve in its’ place. How much pipe length should be cut away?
I have push fit isolation valves in my bathroom but I can't turn them, a normal flathead screwdriver is too small. I don't know if I need a special tool
Normally you just need the correct size flat screwdriver. If it one of the valves where the screw slot is plastic - they are crap and the screw often gets chewed up!
thanks for this, I just relised I fixed a isloation valve the wrong way, as the new one I got had no directional arrow but only a K so I assumed the water flowed to the left I < but it is actually the opposite way. k > this way, yes I am not a plumber, and I could not see nothing on the internet about valves and how to fit them on till this.
Ultimate Handyman thank you, appreciate it, love your videos have me the confidence to rip out my old bath room saving a fortune, looking to do the same in my new house but will attempt to put it back together again!
That they can weep out the screw is reassuring.... Mines did that after I closed it off and then opened it again... I stopped the weeping using superglue!!
have you ever tried to use a gas rated valve on a water setup ? i was told by a plumber that gas fittings will leak if used with water, but in my experience they dont, i would be interested how many bar of pressure they can withstand.
Sometimes they are fitted the incorrect way, it's not normally a problem, but could cause problems when trying to isolate the valve (if there is a lot of pressure).
Its v difficult when the isolator is tight against wall and in bottom corner, its v hard to get the 2 spanners in. Are there any other tools which can be used?
These can be difficult in confined spaces. A push fit version would be much easier to fit. You can get compression nut spanners, but the ones cut from sheet steel are crap. I have one of these, but it depends how much room you have - bit.ly/37w7oQd
When we're deburring a pipe which has been placed vertically, do we need to worry about the pieces of copper dropping right in to the pipe? What plumbers usually do about it?
I don't think there is much you can do, apart from flush out the bits afterwards. To be honest, If I was a plumber I'd make something to push in the pipe to stop the shavings dropping down 👍
Hi mr Handyman, Just a question for you. You said you were using a standard 15mm thread size, this means a 1/2 inch BSP, correct? I need to make sure I order the correct adapters for my new tab?
In most cases you have to holed the valve up next to the pipe, you should be able to see where to mark the pipe for cutting. If you are lucky, it might say on the packaging!
Great video, one question when fitting the 15 mm isolation ball valve, it will mean cutting some of the existing pipe out to make space for it, how best to measure the space needed by the isolation valve?
There is normally a line on the isolation valve, showing where the pipe will insert to. Just hold that up to the pipe and then make two marks using a marker pen 👍
If I do this in situ, will the copper chippings from cutting and deburring cause any issues if they fall down the pipes? Or can I just run the tap with the aerator / nozzle removed to flush them out?
I need to replace my service valve to the toilet cistern, the one in situ has a fibre washer, yet the replacements all have and o seal, will the o seal do same job? Or should i use a fibre washer , replacing o seal obv. Thanks
What happens if you need to take the fitting off and reinstall. Would you need a new O ring or can it just tighten all back up as normal without anything extra required
It depends, most of the time you can remove and refit it. If the joint weeps, you can wrap a little PTFE tape around the olive and it should be fine. Thanks for the comment 👍
It's almost impossible to do it, once the bath is in position. Ideally the isolating valves should be installed before the bath is installed. Thanks for the comment
If you push the pipe all the way into the valve, or push something in, then mark the end of the nut with a marker, then pull it out and measure the mark from the end, you should get an accurate measurement of how much pipe you need to cut out. Thanks for the comment 👍
all the taps i bought come with 20mm flexi pipe. i cant find ANYWHERE that sells something to adapt 20mm pipe to ANYTHING my house pipe is 15mm what to do? i cant even turn the water back on :'(
I'd take it to your local plumbers merchants, you might end up buying new flexi tails. I bought a tap from eBay a few years ago and had a similar issue
@@ultimatehandyman I installed compression isolation valves and they turn out to be 20mm thread even though it says 15mm so I could screw flexi tail directly to that. Going to do same with kitchen
Because of the way smaller ball valves are manufactured, there is a chance that the valve could fail- if there was sufficient water pressure and the valve was in the closed position, however I have tested one on my pressure testing rig and it held at 50 Bar of pressure- so in most cases, nothing much will happen. Things could be different with hot water though, due the expansion/contraction over time. Thanks for the comment 👍
I think I would insert the end of a pencil, or a piece of dowelling, or even a depth gauge, if you have one, and measure and mark the distance from the end of the fitting to the stop inside. Do this from both ends, then measure the fitting overall, then add your two readings and subtract that from the overall dimension. That should give you the clearance you need between pipe ends, so it seems to me. Anyone else got any comments?
I have read conflicting advice about doing this, but most of the comments I have read, have suggested it will be fine- just open and close the lever very slowly.
The previous owner of my house installed a number of valves the wrong way around. They actually seem to work correctly that way as long as they're in open position. However as soon as you close them (which I need to do to replace the tap) they started to leak heavily from the valve knob... :(
Yes, I'm afraid you still need to deburr it. Circular type cutters are great, as there is no burr on the outside of the pipe, but they leave a burr on the inside which needs removing. Thanks for the comment
You don't need PTFE tape on compression fittings (unless they weep) Are the olives copper or brass? Copper olives are better IMHO, sometimes brass olives to not seal correctly as they are less malleable Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much, your tip about weeping valves helped me avoid a valve replacement for now. Thanks a ton sir !!
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
This video saved our Christmas! It's a long story, but this helped out massively! Thank you, and Happy Christmas!
Does the story involve a baby, a donkey, stars, etc ?
Thank you. Appreciated.
Naturally a lot of plumbers don't want small 10 minute jobs even as they would pass by the house anyway. Our old plumber retired and it is almost impossible to find a reasonably priced plumber who won't charge more than half hour call out and parts. Now I have found the parts are only a small amount anyway but our old plumber only charged £30 for small jobs. That was a lot of his work and he did well taking on the small things.
One in Chichester through a checkatrade quoted almost £100 for a tap washer replacement. Checkatrade has really gone downhill and I shan't use them again after our last two experiences. I don't know how they are getting high reviews. The one star reviews are horrendous now. Seems they were bought out.
You are welcome
It’s always difficult getting tradesmen to do small jobs, as they would rather do the larger jobs!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you so much. Finally fixed my leak and installed a new sink… and all thanks to you 😃
Excellent! 👍
Quite helpful. I attempted replacing mine before watching this video but it was terrible as water was leaking. After watching your video i did the second attempt and there were no leaks. The problem was that on the first attempt I just placed the valve and tightened the nut without pushing the valve further enough. 😂😂
When one isn't a plumber, these videos are so super useful. I'll need to get good at DIY because we've bought a house that needs a ton of work.
I'm glad that the videos help 👍
Great video and really helpful info on the flexi tails. You have the knack of explaining things that other youtubers leave out. In this case the reason for flow direction. I bought pegler iso valves recently and neither had a direction of flow arrow. Your explanation of how to work out the direction helped. Thanks!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks ! I was trying to find out how to connect a flexi tail to an isolation valve I now know you need the flat ended one !
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I thought I knew everything about fitting isolation valves but that tip about the weeping screw was new to me, thanks! I have replaced valves in the past for that problem.
Sometimes it works, I guess a lot depends on the water and how much solids are contained in the water.
We use Reverse Osmosis water on site and virtually all the minerals etc. are removed from it- so it is notorious for leaking and not sealing again, whereas with normal water sometimes a weep will seal itself.
Thanks for the comment 👍
👍🤓👍 full bore version is the way to go wherever possible great video as always👍🤓👍🍰
Thanks for the comment, Wayne 👍
First time participating in any plumbing and your instructions and tips really did the trick. Thank you 👍
Glad it helped 👍
You know what? I´m subscribing from now on. This was informative enough to feed a family of five. Luckily I have no children. I will use my new knowledge very soon to replace a leaking (as in internal which causes a toilet with a broken sealing to have the water tank filled up within 10 hours even though the valve is closed) isolation valve.
Thanks for the comment and the sub 👍
The flat faced straight isolation valves look great, never seen those before and have sometimes struggled when connecting the flexi-tail hoses to get a reliable seal. Cheers for the tip, I'll be looking for some of those as I usually keep a few in the tool box for whenever changing a tap etc, having the isolation valves makes all future maintenance so much easier :) One tip I can share is if you're considering using the handled isolation valves, is to check the screw that retains the handle with a magnet. I've found a large number of these that use thinly plated steel screws that rust quite quickly, a replacement stainless fixing is a cheap fix and saves the handle falling off when the steel fixing rusts through, especially when you need to isolate a pipe in a hurry and the handle is missing due to a rusted fixing :) Keep up the great content :)
I once had an incident with a isolation valve, with a handle- ruclips.net/video/8Yfb1dSZHQ0/видео.html
Thanks for the tip ;-)
V.useful video, with clear explanations and easy to follow. We ended up using 240 wet and dry sandpaper instead of a deburrer as we couldn’t find one in our DIY shop and it worked well.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks so much for all your videos. You have helped me out of many sticky situations
I'm glad the videos have helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Saving me a ton of money as I'm going to give this a go myself. ill feedback when I'm done.
I have found that the screw seizes up on the valves when they have been in situ for some time. The lever ones are better in that respect.
Agreed they can seize up though mine have been in over 30 years with no problems. Try to avoid the cheaper brands if possible. Lever valves are great when you need to be able to turn off the water very quickly but they need the space to be fitted which is not always possible. Mine are fitted on the supply to the loft tank and the cold water feed to the hot tanks. Much better than gate valves...
Had to replace mine as shredded the screw ....first ever time doing plumbing thanks man all worked out
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
you have really helpful videos thak you :)
Happy to hear that!
if the pipe is fixed on the wall, how much pipe should you cut out to fit the valve?
Such a great video and so well explained. Thank you! Also, you have to love that Lancashire accent :D
Thank you! 😃
Good instructions and informative video 👍👍. Was shocked at the size of that valve,would not like to change them too often.👍
They are not that bad to change, you just remove the 8 or 16 bolts on the flanges and split the pipe and insert a new valve with new gaskets. It's often made more difficult because of where they are positioned, so you are normally on your knees with little room to manoeuvre, but there are worse jobs ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Great video, really informative and a great source of information for helping me to replace the isolation valves in my shower and toilet! Thanks.
Great to hear 👍
Nice little tips on top of the main points thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Big up Alan Smith for that link. Gonna check it out now. Let's hope they do a 1/2" (15mm) to 3/8s " version. Some flexi tap tails are not 1/2".
Yes, those isolation valves are superb.
It seems they do sell a 3/8 version- www.bes.co.uk/flat-faced-straight-isolation-valve-15mm-x-3-8-bsp-pm-23640
Thanks for the comment
For pipework where you need a a better flow you can buy the full bore ball a fix valves so there's no restrictions in side the pipework, either with a lever or slot.Great instructional video though
Thanks for the comment 👍
If fitting one in situ 15mm isolation valve on a straight length of pipe how much pipe do you cut out of the pipe for correct operation and installation.👍
Get the proper ones with the wing head their crap go and work on them after been installed a year or two and they start to leak so your back to square one isolating from the main valve to replace one of these.
Great video! How do you measure the amount of copper pipe to cut away to fit the valve? I am doing a UFH supply and return pipe (polypipe system) upstream from the main thermostat - the installer didn't put an isolation valve in! I am not sure about the water flow but logically the hot pipe will flow to the manifold and the cold away from the manifold. What do you think?
I only ever use the Pegler isolation valves, don’t bother with the cheaper versions.
👍
Never to be used on an outside tap, use a lever full bore valve, if you get a problem you don’t have to find a screwdriver to turn off.
These are a service valve for ball-valve , taps etc you will find that they start to leak through the screwdriver slot after time.
Can I add this isolation valve to a live water pipe? Not sure if i can turn hot water off in my house want to change kitchen tap.
Yes, but you will have to isolate and drain down first
What distance do i need to cut. Never tells you on any video. Two inch ?
Thanks for this. This is going to make my life so much easier. Why were these not installed as standard in older bathrooms?!
There are a few reasons-
1. When the bathroom was installed it might not have been recommended to install isolation valves.
2. Cost of the valve and the added time to install.
3. Introducing something else that could go wrong in future (isolation valves are great until they start leaking)
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for the reply. I popped into Toolstation yesterday and got a couple of them, then straight after in Wickes I found 22 mm isolating valves with flexible pipe to 3/4", which is pretty much perfect for what I want to do (fit a new bath). They were dead easy to fit - cold tap was dribbling a bit at first, but it seems to have stopped now and no more water has come out overnight.
How can I know I fastened it well?
It's not leaking or something I just afraid.
If it’s not leaking, it should be fine 😉
Can you not connect a normal isolation valve to a Flexi instead of the flat end one? I've been doing that for years with no issues.
I was told by a gas fitter years ago, just to use a normal isolation valve, but then the flat faced ones seemed to appear. The flat faced ones are better, because there is less chance or damaging the sealing washer. I have installed lots with normal isolation valves, but always get the flat faced ones now 👍
@@ultimatehandyman thanks. I think I'll use the flat ones to. 👍
Thank you for this informative upload. Are the terms "15mm" and "1/2"" interchangeable for UK fittings?
Yes, only last week I replaced two radiators for a friend and their pipes were 1/2 copper.
Normal 15mm olives (copper are best) and 15mm compression fitting worked perfectly 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Great, thanks so much.
Great video. Well filmed and clearly narrated.
Thank you kindly!
Thanks for the video.....I've used these a lot but find the "seep" on turning the valve on and off quite common and very annoying. I buy the full bore ones and they don't seem to have that problem.
You are welcome
I think the full bore ones are better quality. There is nothing more annoying that fitting a valve to make the job easier next time- only for the valve to leak!
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman happened to me tonight! I fitted (cheap) isolators on the tails of a radiator and 4 years later I need to change things. Go to turn the slotted part (after first praying to God) and BOTH of them leaked.
Even when I turned it back they leaked. So now they leak permanently:(
So I drained down. No way to further isolate or freeze :(
Brilliant as always your info is simple but spot on.
Many thanks! 👍
Can you re-use as in reopen and Re close or would you need a new olive?
Yes, certainly. You only need a new olive if you are using the fitting on another pipe. In the unlikely event that the olive leaks, just wrap the olive with a little PTFE tape 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a leak from the isolation valve abutting my cold water storage tank. The unit seems to have a threaded extension from where the leak is coming. The nut to nut dimension is about 69 mm. Is a standard isolation vale OK or do I need a service valve...what is the difference? (I'd like a lever this time). Thank you!!
It sounds like it could be a service valve. There is often a fibre washer in one of those, it is probably damaged and just needs replacing (unless the valve itself is leaking). You can turn the existing valve 90 degrees then replace the washer. If you want to replace the whole valve with a lever type, you will have to isolate the water elsewhere 👍
Good video and well explained. Why would you use a non full bore over a full bore?
I am planning to put an isolation valve on a pipe that feeds the toilet cistern, would full bore be better here or non? Space isn't an issue.
are these isolation valves made as non return valves? or you would need a non return valve and a isolation valve for fitting mixer tap. thanks
No, you would need a check valve to prevent backflow, as an isolation valve will only isolate 👍
Great video as always. at 0:39 the JG speedfit says it cannot be used on central heating systems. If you have new build combi boiler home setup does this rule out all pipework? As when you turn on taps it will cause the boiler to turn on? thanks
Some John Guest speedfit fittings are not suitable for central heating, examples are the isolation valve in this video, and some flexi fittings. All the John Guest regular pipe and fittings can be used on central heating, I'm not sure why some fittings are not suitable- but most are. You can of course use any John Guest fittings on the domestic hot or cold water.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Why does it weep from the screw when isolating and turning back on? What would be the reason for it not working to stop the leak? Would you just need a whole new valve?
Yes, if the valve is leaking from the slot, it might need replacing, although sometimes if you turn the slot slightly, it will stop weeping.
Question. if you turn off the water from the main supply stopcock in the property. do you need to power off your/combi/condenser boiler. boiler in question is a bosch worcester. tia
No, you don’t need to switch the boiler off. The central heating will still work, but you won’t have any hot or cold water at the taps 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you kindly sir
Hi, I want to add an isolating valve to a length of 15mm pipe that’s already in place. It runs to an external garden tap. I just want to add it on the internal side of the wall (it runs from a downstairs bathroom) I basically want to cut some length from the middle of the pipe and add the valve in its’ place. How much pipe length should be cut away?
Looking for the answer to this question, did you figure it out?
Silly question. But does the olive come already inside the flat faced isolation valve?
yes 👍
Always great to watch an expert in motion. Keep those vids coming.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have push fit isolation valves in my bathroom but I can't turn them, a normal flathead screwdriver is too small. I don't know if I need a special tool
Normally you just need the correct size flat screwdriver. If it one of the valves where the screw slot is plastic - they are crap and the screw often gets chewed up!
Always measured & fantastic advice !!!
Thanks 👍
If fitting valve to pipe allready on wall how much pipe needs cutting off?
It depends on the make of the valve.
Always best to get the valve and measure 👍
excellent video & presentation 👏👍.. the inlet looks smaller than the 15 mm pipe, does that reduce the flow to the tap or cistern ?....
thanks for this, I just relised I fixed a isloation valve the wrong way, as the new one I got had no directional arrow but only a K so I assumed the water flowed to the left I < but it is actually the opposite way. k > this way, yes I am not a plumber, and I could not see nothing on the internet about valves and how to fit them on till this.
👍
Do I need to clean the pipe of old paint before applying these compression valves or push fit connections? If so what’s the best way to clean them?
Yes it is best to clean the pipe, you can use wire wool, or if you are struggling a blowtorch will quickly remove paint from copper pipe.
Ultimate Handyman thank you, appreciate it, love your videos have me the confidence to rip out my old bath room saving a fortune, looking to do the same in my new house but will attempt to put it back together again!
Thanks a lot for posting!
You're welcome 👍
Very informative thanks. Subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
Extremely helpful.
My isolation valve has stopped working turn to on water started to run then it stopped still no water
I've not come across that before.
Is it definitely installed the correct way (with the arrow pointing in the direction of flow) ?
Your Vids are much appreciated 👍 well explained !
Glad you like them!
Thanks for the comment 👍
PTFE tape is a must.
Not for compression fittings- ruclips.net/video/6PR0zTU_v30/видео.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
That they can weep out the screw is reassuring.... Mines did that after I closed it off and then opened it again... I stopped the weeping using superglue!!
Thanks for the comment
I'm sure I've seen a flexi tail with a valve built into the end of it. Will have to see if I can find one for sale.
Yes, you can also get those. I should have included one in the video, but forgot about them!
Thanks for the comment 👍
can you not file down, sand down the thread so it's flat?
You can, as long as you get it completely flat 👍
Great video, when fitting to a pipe under the floor what length piece of pipe needs to be cut out to allow fitting?
It depends on the make of fitting, normally it is about 40mm (if I remember rightly).
It’s best to check with the fitting that you buy 👍
have you ever tried to use a gas rated valve on a water setup ? i was told by a plumber that gas fittings will leak if used with water, but in my experience they dont, i would be interested how many bar of pressure they can withstand.
No, I have never tried a gas fitting 🤔
Thanks for the comment 👍
Are they always in direction of the water flow? Some are in the direction of the pressure, although same thing I suppose
Sometimes they are fitted the incorrect way, it's not normally a problem, but could cause problems when trying to isolate the valve (if there is a lot of pressure).
Fantastic demo well done pal
Thank you! Cheers!
Its v difficult when the isolator is tight against wall and in bottom corner, its v hard to get the 2 spanners in. Are there any other tools which can be used?
These can be difficult in confined spaces.
A push fit version would be much easier to fit.
You can get compression nut spanners, but the ones cut from sheet steel are crap.
I have one of these, but it depends how much room you have -
bit.ly/37w7oQd
Another great informative video! Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
When we're deburring a pipe which has been placed vertically, do we need to worry about the pieces of copper dropping right in to the pipe? What plumbers usually do about it?
I don't think there is much you can do, apart from flush out the bits afterwards.
To be honest, If I was a plumber I'd make something to push in the pipe to stop the shavings dropping down 👍
If I use one of those flexi tail adapters do you use an olive with it or dose it just push in and tighten with the nut?
It depends which one you get; this should explain it- ruclips.net/video/OuOdkjMLFKA/видео.html&t
👍
Hi mr Handyman, Just a question for you. You said you were using a standard 15mm thread size, this means a 1/2 inch BSP, correct? I need to make sure I order the correct adapters for my new tab?
15mm pipe size. Yes, the nuts are normally 1/2 BSP
Thanks mate 🔧
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
How much do you need to cut out of an existing pipe?
I assume the pack will have this measurement on it.
In most cases you have to holed the valve up next to the pipe, you should be able to see where to mark the pipe for cutting. If you are lucky, it might say on the packaging!
Another quality video. Thanks for sharing 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, one question when fitting the 15 mm isolation ball valve, it will mean cutting some of the existing pipe out to make space for it, how best to measure the space needed by the isolation valve?
There is normally a line on the isolation valve, showing where the pipe will insert to. Just hold that up to the pipe and then make two marks using a marker pen 👍
If I do this in situ, will the copper chippings from cutting and deburring cause any issues if they fall down the pipes? Or can I just run the tap with the aerator / nozzle removed to flush them out?
It will be fine, as long as you flush the pipe out afterward, as you say though- remove the aerator if possible.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Really helpful video, thanks.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can I fit an isolation valve on the hot water pipe from the hot water tank so I can stop hot water to all the taps in one go
I'd use a full bore isolation valve, if I were you, so that flow is not reduced.
fave.co/2YgHkSl
I need to replace my service valve to the toilet cistern, the one in situ has a fibre washer, yet the replacements all have and o seal, will the o seal do same job? Or should i use a fibre washer , replacing o seal obv.
Thanks
Thank that was so helpful and very well put .
Glad it was helpful 👍
What happens if you need to take the fitting off and reinstall. Would you need a new O ring or can it just tighten all back up as normal without anything extra required
It depends, most of the time you can remove and refit it. If the joint weeps, you can wrap a little PTFE tape around the olive and it should be fine.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Now how do you do it at finger tip reach, out of sight behind a bath with a sink pedestal in the way?
It's almost impossible to do it, once the bath is in position. Ideally the isolating valves should be installed before the bath is installed.
Thanks for the comment
How do you calculate how much copper pipe to cut out to accommodate the valve. Thanks.
If you push the pipe all the way into the valve, or push something in, then mark the end of the nut with a marker, then pull it out and measure the mark from the end, you should get an accurate measurement of how much pipe you need to cut out.
Thanks for the comment 👍
cheers cant wait to show my boss my plumbing skillage when we come to do this
👍
all the taps i bought come with 20mm flexi pipe. i cant find ANYWHERE that sells something to adapt 20mm pipe to ANYTHING
my house pipe is 15mm
what to do? i cant even turn the water back on :'(
I'd take it to your local plumbers merchants, you might end up buying new flexi tails.
I bought a tap from eBay a few years ago and had a similar issue
@@ultimatehandyman I installed compression isolation valves and they turn out to be 20mm thread even though it says 15mm so I could screw flexi tail directly to that. Going to do same with kitchen
Hi lads
I've a bloody olive and nut stuck on a Triton shower plastic water in pipe
How can I get it off without a scratch?
I guess hacksaw?
A junior hacksaw is best, just take it nice and slowly ;-)
What would the consequence be of installating a ball valve in the ‘wrong’ flow direction? Thanks
Because of the way smaller ball valves are manufactured, there is a chance that the valve could fail- if there was sufficient water pressure and the valve was in the closed position, however I have tested one on my pressure testing rig and it held at 50 Bar of pressure- so in most cases, nothing much will happen. Things could be different with hot water though, due the expansion/contraction over time.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Ultimate Handyman thanks!!
What's the clearance between pipe-ends, please?
It depends on the make of valve, as some are slightly longer than others.
I think this one is about 40mm 👍
I think I would insert the end of a pencil, or a piece of dowelling, or even a depth gauge, if you have one, and measure and mark the distance from the end of the fitting to the stop inside. Do this from both ends, then measure the fitting overall, then add your two readings and subtract that from the overall dimension. That should give you the clearance you need between pipe ends, so it seems to me. Anyone else got any comments?
Very informative! Are full-bore ones (with a lever) suitable for use as the main stopcock? I really need to replace mine!
If you want to stick to code it should be a proper stopcock, however a decent ball valve will do the same job and give you better pressure.
I have read conflicting advice about doing this, but most of the comments I have read, have suggested it will be fine- just open and close the lever very slowly.
if I was installing one of these valves in an existing pipe under a sink what length of pipe should I cut out please.
Excellent man Very nicely explanation given👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
The previous owner of my house installed a number of valves the wrong way around. They actually seem to work correctly that way as long as they're in open position. However as soon as you close them (which I need to do to replace the tap) they started to leak heavily from the valve knob... :(
Thanks for the comment
Another great tip
Thanks.
Ash🏴
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Is deburring necessary is I use a circular pipe cutting tool?
Yes, I'm afraid you still need to deburr it. Circular type cutters are great, as there is no burr on the outside of the pipe, but they leave a burr on the inside which needs removing.
Thanks for the comment
Thank you for saving my money
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
I put a new one on but it is leaking, would it be because I used ptfe tape (wound round 10x)
You don't need PTFE tape on compression fittings (unless they weep)
Are the olives copper or brass?
Copper olives are better IMHO, sometimes brass olives to not seal correctly as they are less malleable
Thanks for the comment
Olives are copper but I didn’t want to use the new ones as the fitting is under the bath & hard to get the old olives & nuts off.
Thanks for the reply
Great video...Thanks👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching! 👍