man oh man i sure enjoyed that burnout with my ear pods in awesome with that backend pulling to one side made this ole mans juices flow look foward to you taking a meadow riding and spin those tires and save the tread and inch it up a steep hill show us those front wheels suspention as it holds lol
@@garlitzhyperformancegarage8818 miss my 71 Chevelle Horseshoe shifter 350 posi black inside n out duels,straight pipes,cragers,Carolina car brought to VT awesome ride late night runs and wet meadows,windows down held her as she struggled to catch traction id hold letting her dig then inch upward till i crested on the hill satisfied as i inhaled exhaust,sod,warm engine work out.Great years.Thanks for extra nod...
I would check float hight on both fuel bowls just to make sure they aren't set a little too high if you havent then check your fuel pressure to see if the pump is either sending too much fuel pressure or the fuel pressure is inconsistent going up & down . Not sure what your running but probably a stock type fuel pump & not a holley electric blue pump but those stock style fuel pumps I do know the spring gets worn out and when that happens fuel pressure becomes inconsistent or if the diaphragm is getting weak or has a small tear in it & it starts to fluctuate the fuel pressure . Depending on how old that Holley is it might even be worn out throttle shaft bushings causing a idle that keeps going up and down because the throttle plates dont return to the exact same position and it can be sucking air past those shaft bushings causing a fluctuating idle & have seen this on Holley Edelbrock & the old Quadrajets quite often through the years . Could be the distributor like you say as well where the advance springs are getting weak or broke or if the advance plate is worn out where the weights sit & open up & close where the pins are for the advance weights to move on they get worn out and sloppy which causes erratic timing . Even the distributor shaft bushing can wear out which causes erratic idle & timing changes ive seen . Some of this timing stuff you should be able to see with a timing light on the engine while it idles by looking at the timing marks on the ballancer when holding the throttle at a higher rpm to see if theres any timing fluctuation at both speeds. If you know anyone that has a distributor machine by chance which are getting hard to find these days a distributor machine can go a long ways on finding out the problem plus getting the distributor dialed in for your timing needs like a quicker timing advance like you were mentioning & actually tuning the distributor to your engine application . It could even be that vacuum advance diaphram is getting weak or has a tear in the diaphram and its sucking air at idle. So many variables with using these distributors compared to moden computer controlled ignitions where there is no distributors like the modern GM LS uses but it is what it is and is always a part of what we have to deal with on these old cars we build & work on . Im assuming that you do have a phenolic heat spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold because I've seen people who have not used them & end up having all kinds of issues with idle wandering & boil over from the heat causing the fuel to expand especially with this crap pump gas we have that has alcohole in it . Years ago I could get 110 octane race fuel at 2 different pumps where I used to live at 2.80 a gallon and my built Chrysler 440 loved it tail pipes were a nice light brown color the engine ran a little cooler and I could run more initial timing advance so throttle response was much better but race fuel now has skyrockted so its not feasible to use much anymore other than to go racing or blending it with the crap fuel we get now and I know thats why some have some have jetted their carburetors way up to run E85 to take advantage of the higher octane rating to get the performance they want because race fuel is so damn expensive now . One last thing i do know that on the SBC if you dont get the distributor locked down tight enough that the distributor well turn causing the timing to drop so I would check that the distributor hasn't moved & that initial timing is still set where it should be or where you like it set at . Do a follow up video of what you find out because inquiring minds want to know .
![Finesse2Tymes - Pretty Ricky [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xIoP_mhYRT0/mqdefault.jpg)
I did that once and got stuck in the slimy tar in August when a car was approaching!
Nice, that's funny
man oh man i sure enjoyed that burnout with my ear pods in awesome with that backend pulling to one side made this ole mans juices flow look foward to you taking a meadow riding and spin those tires and save the tread and inch it up a steep hill show us those front wheels suspention as it holds lol
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
@@garlitzhyperformancegarage8818 miss my 71 Chevelle Horseshoe shifter 350 posi black inside n out duels,straight pipes,cragers,Carolina car brought to VT awesome ride late night runs and wet meadows,windows down held her as she struggled to catch traction id hold letting her dig then inch upward till i crested on the hill satisfied as i inhaled exhaust,sod,warm engine work out.Great years.Thanks for extra nod...
I would check float hight on both fuel bowls just to make sure they aren't set a little too high if you havent then check your fuel pressure to see if the pump is either sending too much fuel pressure or the fuel pressure is inconsistent going up & down . Not sure what your running but probably a stock type fuel pump & not a holley electric blue pump but those stock style fuel pumps I do know the spring gets worn out and when that happens fuel pressure becomes inconsistent or if the diaphragm is getting weak or has a small tear in it & it starts to fluctuate the fuel pressure . Depending on how old that Holley is it might even be worn out throttle shaft bushings causing a idle that keeps going up and down because the throttle plates dont return to the exact same position and it can be sucking air past those shaft bushings causing a fluctuating idle & have seen this on Holley Edelbrock & the old Quadrajets quite often through the years . Could be the distributor like you say as well where the advance springs are getting weak or broke or if the advance plate is worn out where the weights sit & open up & close where the pins are for the advance weights to move on they get worn out and sloppy which causes erratic timing . Even the distributor shaft bushing can wear out which causes erratic idle & timing changes ive seen . Some of this timing stuff you should be able to see with a timing light on the engine while it idles by looking at the timing marks on the ballancer when holding the throttle at a higher rpm to see if theres any timing fluctuation at both speeds. If you know anyone that has a distributor machine by chance which are getting hard to find these days a distributor machine can go a long ways on finding out the problem plus getting the distributor dialed in for your timing needs like a quicker timing advance like you were mentioning & actually tuning the distributor to your engine application . It could even be that vacuum advance diaphram is getting weak or has a tear in the diaphram and its sucking air at idle. So many variables with using these distributors compared to moden computer controlled ignitions where there is no distributors like the modern GM LS uses but it is what it is and is always a part of what we have to deal with on these old cars we build & work on . Im assuming that you do have a phenolic heat spacer between the carburetor and intake manifold because I've seen people who have not used them & end up having all kinds of issues with idle wandering & boil over from the heat causing the fuel to expand especially with this crap pump gas we have that has alcohole in it . Years ago I could get 110 octane race fuel at 2 different pumps where I used to live at 2.80 a gallon and my built Chrysler 440 loved it tail pipes were a nice light brown color the engine ran a little cooler and I could run more initial timing advance so throttle response was much better but race fuel now has skyrockted so its not feasible to use much anymore other than to go racing or blending it with the crap fuel we get now and I know thats why some have some have jetted their carburetors way up to run E85 to take advantage of the higher octane rating to get the performance they want because race fuel is so damn expensive now . One last thing i do know that on the SBC if you dont get the distributor locked down tight enough that the distributor well turn causing the timing to drop so I would check that the distributor hasn't moved & that initial timing is still set where it should be or where you like it set at . Do a follow up video of what you find out because inquiring minds want to know .
10 4 buddy thanks for your input and I'll definitely do a follow up video! I'm going to start digging into it real soon!
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👀🤣🤣🤣Great burnout!! 🏁🏁🏁