Nice pick up! It’s possible it could be a cam cap leak up top on the heads or a rear main seal! Mine had a terrible leak from the rear cam cap and the oil pump which had been neglected for along time. It was pretty nasty 😷
Couple questions: 1-What were you jacking on with the bottle jack (AC Mount)? 2- Did you disconnect the engine mounts to get the engine to lift that much? Great video BTW!
1. Yessir! I had the bottle jack positioned on the AC bracket. 2. Only the passenger side mount aswell all other mounts were left in place. Thank you i appreciate it!
07 Acura TL-S, and yes you’ll need to drop the j pipe and the bottle jack was on the engine holding it up since you’ll have to remove the passenger side motor mount
How long you been working off the ground ? You deserve a lift. How many of these oil pumps have you done ? I don't understand why they can't just leak into the oil pan ? Looks like you were a bit liberal with the Hondabond. +1 for extra thoroughness with resealing the oil pickup. Any particular reason you pulled the plunger on the oil housing ? Did you replace the spring or replace the valve ? We use to run 5w30 for manual transmission fluid at the Honda dealership back in the late '90s.
Too long! Haha since my highschool years, so like 2014-2015 to now. Definitely something I’m trying to get figured out! And I’ve did acouple on other Honda engines and acouple other engines that I had before I was into Hondas, but this was actually my first on a J series or any v6 for that matter. And yeah it’s not a fun job on the ground but it’s doable, that’s also why I used alittle extra Hondabond really didn’t want to have to do it again haha. But thank you! I appreciate it! And honestly I just pulled the plunger because I was resealing the solenoid and honestly I get alittle obsessive when it comes to cleaning haha (not a terrible trait, but time consuming). I know a bunch of people that still do run the 5w30 for trans fluid, I used to but killed two input shaft bearings during my time using it years ago. (Don’t know if it was related or not) Temporarily I doubt it’ll hurt as the service manual says, but for long term I’d just run the MTF just for the reassurance.
Question for you. After I took off the oil filter housing to replace gaskets on my TL, the upper right longer bolt can't be tightened all the way down and it constantly rotates. The threads on the bolt looks fine without any damages . I cleaned the hole for the bolt on the oil pump with some break cleaner. Some plastic rubbery pieces came out of the hole but I don't see any threads inside. Do I need to replace the entire oil pump? Or there's something plastic or silicon stuff that can be inserted into the hold? So the longer bolt can be tightened down? Thanks.
If the longer bolt was put in the wrong hole it could have bottomed out and pulled the threads, but you should have been able to see that. There could be some Hondabond in the way of the bolt causing it to not fully catch threads, if its option 1 I believe the bolts pass through the oil pump so the pump would need to pulled and the bolt hole on the block would need to be thread repaired. You could try to lather the bolt in Hondabond or RTV if it’s leaking, to aid with that, or JB weld if you’re real desperate but these are both temporary fixes and will create a mess for you or whoever actually goes in to repair it whenever that time comes.
@@G-BuiltProductions Hadn't put the longer bolt in wrong holes. When I removed those three bolts, I had to use my breaker bar for they were so tight. There was a grey metal coil that is about half the length of the tread on the longer bolt when I removed it the second time because it didn't want to go all the way in. Even putting the coil on the bolt still makes the bolt spin. So far I haven't seen any oil leaks from the housing yet. But when it does, just to take off the oil pump and do thread repair seems a reasonable solution. Have never done any thread repairs. Do you think I can attempt it myself? Thanks again.
Yessir you’ll absolutely need to remove the timing belt to be able to remove the oil pump. But if you’re just the oil pan reseal then no you wouldn’t need to mess with the timing belt side of things at all.
@@G-BuiltProductions damn I see, I have a few leaks on mine and I’m not sure if I need to oil pump resealed. I do know that I am leaking oil from the oil pan. Only one way to find out huh 🤔 thank you 🙏🏾
I personally haven’t ran it, however IDEMITSU makes great stuff. I ran nothing but their premix for my old 89 13b Mazda rx7 I had. I’d still recommend Acura fluids since I haven’t had any issues with them!
Do you think this job would fix a slight knock at idle? Goes away after 1k rpm Already has a new timing belt tensioner so it’s not that and already did valve adjustment too
MAYBE, but I doubt it. It could be just the oil pressure is real low from the leak if it’s bad but chances are if there’s a slight knock already there probably already some damage to the bearings. But it’s worth a try for sure! And also it’d be worth checking the tensioner again, even though it’s new these things are very prone to going bad prematurely ESPECIALLY if it’s aftermarket and not OEM. I did away with the auto tensioner all together and went with the P2R manual tensioner
Did u go around the oil pump seal with hondabond? Not the seal itself but the area around it? Also. Do u have the part number for the oil pressure switch o ring?
Yes I did go around it! Since the seal itself is problematic, I wouldn’t put a lot though as it could potentially get in the oil joint pipe. Yes I do 91319-PR3-003
Honestly, depends on your location but I’d say it’d be an expensive service no doubt. Acura would give you a quote but I’d say it’d be upwards of $1,000 atleast, probably more. Considering at that time you’ll need all the timing belt parts aswell, it’d be best to time the service when getting the timing belt replaced.
@@G-BuiltProductions I got quoted $1600 for it … that’s including the oil pump, so hopefully they said the oil pump is fine and just the seal needs to be done so $1350. Aisin Timing belt kit.
@@1992kingcezar yeah that sounds about right, and yes I wouldn’t worry with the replacing the oil pump itsself. They don’t normally go out, just the seal seems to be what gives a issue which honestly the Hondabond and the o ring on the oil pump I believe is a bad design and that’s why it’s problematic in my opinion atleast. Good luck hope you get it resolved! If it’s not leaking too bad just add oil and check as needed until you can get it done. I ran mine for years while it was leaking.
@@highlow2781 absolutely! How much oil are you losing in say a week? Normally the oil pump will leak but not TOOOO bad, I’d start by giving everything a good rinse in brake cleaner and run it for alittle bit (if it’s a terrible leak) or a day or so (if it’s a slow leak) and then you should be able to pinpoint exactly where you’re leaking from! Could be something else! Hopefully, it’s not a terrible fix but definitely on the expensive side for labor because there is quite a few things to do and remove when doing this service!
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
An excellent and thorough video on servicing the oil pump system: thank you, sir!!
Thanks for watching!
Nicely put together video, explanations and part numbers. Thanks as I have this repair coming up next week. Got yourself a new subscriber 👍
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
I just got an 08 TLS a month ago and I thought the oil pan was leaking but it’s only dripping from the clutch cover that has those two bolts.
Nice pick up! It’s possible it could be a cam cap leak up top on the heads or a rear main seal! Mine had a terrible leak from the rear cam cap and the oil pump which had been neglected for along time. It was pretty nasty 😷
Video is awesome bro!
Couple questions: 1-What were you jacking on with the bottle jack (AC Mount)? 2- Did you disconnect the engine mounts to get the engine to lift that much? Great video BTW!
1. Yessir! I had the bottle jack positioned on the AC bracket. 2. Only the passenger side mount aswell all other mounts were left in place. Thank you i appreciate it!
Great video bro but could you tell me the part number for that old pipe joint the one you said not a lot of people change out
Thanks dude! And got you!
Part No: 15150-P8A-A00
Joint Assy., Oil Pipe
Great video! What year TL? Did you have to take exhaust off? What were you lifting with the bottle jack?
07 Acura TL-S, and yes you’ll need to drop the j pipe and the bottle jack was on the engine holding it up since you’ll have to remove the passenger side motor mount
Nice edit ins.
Thank you!
How long you been working off the ground ? You deserve a lift. How many of these oil pumps have you done ? I don't understand why they can't just leak into the oil pan ? Looks like you were a bit liberal with the Hondabond. +1 for extra thoroughness with resealing the oil pickup. Any particular reason you pulled the plunger on the oil housing ? Did you replace the spring or replace the valve ? We use to run 5w30 for manual transmission fluid at the Honda dealership back in the late '90s.
Too long! Haha since my highschool years, so like 2014-2015 to now. Definitely something I’m trying to get figured out! And I’ve did acouple on other Honda engines and acouple other engines that I had before I was into Hondas, but this was actually my first on a J series or any v6 for that matter. And yeah it’s not a fun job on the ground but it’s doable, that’s also why I used alittle extra Hondabond really didn’t want to have to do it again haha. But thank you! I appreciate it! And honestly I just pulled the plunger because I was resealing the solenoid and honestly I get alittle obsessive when it comes to cleaning haha (not a terrible trait, but time consuming). I know a bunch of people that still do run the 5w30 for trans fluid, I used to but killed two input shaft bearings during my time using it years ago. (Don’t know if it was related or not) Temporarily I doubt it’ll hurt as the service manual says, but for long term I’d just run the MTF just for the reassurance.
Question for you. After I took off the oil filter housing to replace gaskets on my TL, the upper right longer bolt can't be tightened all the way down and it constantly rotates. The threads on the bolt looks fine without any damages . I cleaned the hole for the bolt on the oil pump with some break cleaner. Some plastic rubbery pieces came out of the hole but I don't see any threads inside. Do I need to replace the entire oil pump? Or there's something plastic or silicon stuff that can be inserted into the hold? So the longer bolt can be tightened down? Thanks.
If the longer bolt was put in the wrong hole it could have bottomed out and pulled the threads, but you should have been able to see that. There could be some Hondabond in the way of the bolt causing it to not fully catch threads, if its option 1 I believe the bolts pass through the oil pump so the pump would need to pulled and the bolt hole on the block would need to be thread repaired. You could try to lather the bolt in Hondabond or RTV if it’s leaking, to aid with that, or JB weld if you’re real desperate but these are both temporary fixes and will create a mess for you or whoever actually goes in to repair it whenever that time comes.
@@G-BuiltProductions Hadn't put the longer bolt in wrong holes. When I removed those three bolts, I had to use my breaker bar for they were so tight. There was a grey metal coil that is about half the length of the tread on the longer bolt when I removed it the second time because it didn't want to go all the way in. Even putting the coil on the bolt still makes the bolt spin. So far I haven't seen any oil leaks from the housing yet. But when it does, just to take off the oil pump and do thread repair seems a reasonable solution. Have never done any thread repairs. Do you think I can attempt it myself? Thanks again.
You need to remove the timing belts to do this job ? Or were you removing it for another purpose ?
Yessir you’ll absolutely need to remove the timing belt to be able to remove the oil pump. But if you’re just the oil pan reseal then no you wouldn’t need to mess with the timing belt side of things at all.
@@G-BuiltProductions damn I see, I have a few leaks on mine and I’m not sure if I need to oil pump resealed. I do know that I am leaking oil from the oil pan. Only one way to find out huh 🤔 thank you 🙏🏾
Great video. Do you have any thoughts on the Idemitsu ATF H Plus for the 01-03 Acura TL-S?
I personally haven’t ran it, however IDEMITSU makes great stuff. I ran nothing but their premix for my old 89 13b Mazda rx7 I had. I’d still recommend Acura fluids since I haven’t had any issues with them!
Do you think this job would fix a slight knock at idle? Goes away after 1k rpm
Already has a new timing belt tensioner so it’s not that and already did valve adjustment too
MAYBE, but I doubt it. It could be just the oil pressure is real low from the leak if it’s bad but chances are if there’s a slight knock already there probably already some damage to the bearings. But it’s worth a try for sure! And also it’d be worth checking the tensioner again, even though it’s new these things are very prone to going bad prematurely ESPECIALLY if it’s aftermarket and not OEM. I did away with the auto tensioner all together and went with the P2R manual tensioner
❤❤
I need same job done on 2012 tl same job..oil pump & rear seal..
Still need to do my rear main seal! It’s leaking alittle. I need a clutch kit first though! The oil pump leak seems to be SUPER common on these cars!
Where this guy located...i need that work done right now..
I’m located in the 336/276 area!
Is it a true Cummings if it don’t disturb the peace?
😂😂
what was that part you replaced called? the oil pump seal joint pipe at 4:11
Exactly that!
Part No: 15150-P8A-A00
Joint Assy., Oil Pipe
Did u go around the oil pump seal with hondabond? Not the seal itself but the area around it? Also. Do u have the part number for the oil pressure switch o ring?
Yes I did go around it! Since the seal itself is problematic, I wouldn’t put a lot though as it could potentially get in the oil joint pipe. Yes I do 91319-PR3-003
How much would it cost for a job like this? Thank you.
Honestly, depends on your location but I’d say it’d be an expensive service no doubt. Acura would give you a quote but I’d say it’d be upwards of $1,000 atleast, probably more. Considering at that time you’ll need all the timing belt parts aswell, it’d be best to time the service when getting the timing belt replaced.
@@G-BuiltProductions I got quoted $1600 for it … that’s including the oil pump, so hopefully they said the oil pump is fine and just the seal needs to be done so $1350. Aisin Timing belt kit.
@@1992kingcezar yeah that sounds about right, and yes I wouldn’t worry with the replacing the oil pump itsself. They don’t normally go out, just the seal seems to be what gives a issue which honestly the Hondabond and the o ring on the oil pump I believe is a bad design and that’s why it’s problematic in my opinion atleast. Good luck hope you get it resolved! If it’s not leaking too bad just add oil and check as needed until you can get it done. I ran mine for years while it was leaking.
U dont have to lower subframe any do u?
No you don’t! The subframe can stay in place!
Where can i find that joint pipe?
From your local Acura dealer or a website that sells OEM parts, I got mine and most of my other OEM ACURA parts from Acurapartswarehouse.com
@@G-BuiltProductions thanks i just found it
How can i find this guy...
You from 336 ? Area code??
Yessir!
@@G-BuiltProductions I have a 05 TL with a terrible oil leak I believe I have the same issue. I also stay in Greensboro can u help me please?
@@highlow2781 absolutely! How much oil are you losing in say a week? Normally the oil pump will leak but not TOOOO bad, I’d start by giving everything a good rinse in brake cleaner and run it for alittle bit (if it’s a terrible leak) or a day or so (if it’s a slow leak) and then you should be able to pinpoint exactly where you’re leaking from! Could be something else! Hopefully, it’s not a terrible fix but definitely on the expensive side for labor because there is quite a few things to do and remove when doing this service!
@@G-BuiltProductions how can I contact u?
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