I changed my oil today and noticed oil leaking from behind the timing belt cover and behind the oil filter mount. This video is a great step by step guide of what extra steps to expect when I do my next timing belt to reseal the oil pump. Thanks for shooting this so I can learn. -Bill Behr
Finally a diy video to show a mechanic's struggle to remove the exhaust bolt. Thank you! Believe I have the same leak on my 2014 Odyssey. Awesome tutorial...please keep it coming.
Great video! Video quality and narration was great. After I replaced the timing belt on my 07 Accord V6 (J30A5 engine) and before starting the car for the first time, I put a long ratchet on the crank pulley bolt and turned the engine over by hand several full revolutions to make sure there was no valve contact. I was paranoid and wanted to be super safe :D
BTW, FelPro now makes an oil pan gasket for most, if not all, Honda V6 engines so it eliminates dealing with Honda Bond on that part of the job. It's their T series and I have one on my '98 CRV and I absolutely love it....they just don't leak. The one for my '05 Pilot is a little over $35 on RockAuto so that's the way I'll be going when I tackle this job in July. Great vid...thanks!
As a Honda tech I’ve done a few of these. Had the unfortunate one the other day where I put it back together and fired it up just for it to pour oil out of the housing. Tore it back down to find that the o-ring on the back of the pump moved and pinched. I even cleaned all the goo out from that track and put a light bit of HB over the o ring. Crappy job to do over for free but had it back running before lunch!
That sucks having to do that job twice. I've been there with other o-rings, where you're certain you got it in it's groove and somehow it gets pinched. Shit happens, just gotta fix it and move on :D
I'm definitely guilty of not using a torque wrench on not as critical bolts, I mentioned that in another one of my videos. I do use it on more important fasteners though, like head bolts, wheel studs, drivetrain stuff, etc. You're right though, I should put a disclaimer telling people with less experience that they should be torquing stuff with a proper torque wrench. I tell all my guys at work to do it. I've become that old guy that thinks he has a built in torque meter in my wrists lol
@@SkillCollectors if you know what you're doing, you DO have a built in meter! With of course, the disclaimer you already mentioned about crucial items like head bolts, lug nuts/bolts, etc.
Just found your channel and subscribed,good video. I’m a Technician at a Honda dealership and got a laugh at your statement about Honda Bond and making sure you don’t bump anything while putting the part back in, Honda Bond is like axel grease one drop get everywhere!
Nice video, you should like the Valco Tube grip in the description. trying to get a consistent bead of hondabond can be tricky at first the Valco makes it look easy.
i have 3.0 1999 honda accord and i did the timing belt my self and i did not do the oring on the oil pump it is leaking know i like your video step by step nice A+.
Hi, great video! How can you tell if it is the oil pump that is leaking or the oil filter housing that is leaking? I have a 2007 RL and I can see oil leaking from the oil filter housing area but not 100% sure if it is not really the oil pump that is leaking. Actually... thinking about this a bit and if the oil pump was leaking, wouldn't the timing belt become oil drenched as well whereas, if it were the oil filter housing that was leaking, the timing belt would be dry? I have my timing belt exposed as I am in the midst of changing the timing belt and W/P and it looks bone dry; old but bone dry. So I think that would make me think the leak is from the oil filter housing and not the from the oil pump. Does that make any sense?
The best way is to thoroughly clean and dry everything and see if you can trace the leak with some kind of dye added to the oil. The other way is to remove the timing covers and visually look at it but that requires a lot of work. If it's leaking from the oil pump it tends to stick close the the block and leak out the rear above the oil filter housing therefore never touching the timing belt.
Thanks for making this video! I just purchased a 2012 Acura MDX with 86k miles on it. I'm planning to do the timing belt/water pump soon. How common is this oil pump seal failure? Would it be wise to do that as well while I have it torn down that far? Thanks
It was really common on older V6's, pre-2010. We only re-seal it if it's leaking, simply because it adds quite a bit more to the work order. If you don't have an oil leak, I wouldn't mess with it. Down the road if it does start to leak, it's not hard to pull the t-belt to re-seal.
It wasn't clear from the video how you determined the oil pump seal was leaking. I saw a little bit of oil on a bolt above the crank, but that was it. Most of the oil was along the bottom it appeared. Did you also replace the oil filter housing seal? That's a common leakage point as well. I'm hoping that's the source of my leak because I'm not looking forward to doing the oil pump seal. Looks like a pita.
The dealer identified this leak on my 06 TL this week and gave an estimate of $3200, which included timing belt kit install. I'm in northern VA, which is a really expensive area, and they said it was 10 hrs labor @ $195/hr plus OEM parts so the math works out. Unfortunately my power steering pump is leaking, too, and the oil pan was stripped a few years ago and has an oversized plug, so "might as well" replace them , too! Adds up to at least $4500 at the dealer so probably will look for a cheaper shop.
Hey man question : is there ever a reason u should replace that whole oil filter housing itself? Spool valve assembly whatever u call it? Or is it just that gasket that needs replacing?
@@SkillCollectors Hold your horse.....what about in the case of cross threading when you re-install the oil filter housing after changing a gasket/solenoid? 😅😅😅I "maybe" didn't tighten some of the bolts on straight...and have a small leak now. Perhaps the old gaskets picked up some debris?
Great video! Thanks for sharing it with the world. I'm curious, at 18:53, I noticed you were using a spray in combination with a Brillo pad. What's the spray you're using?
In your opinion will this sort of leak if left alone get progressively worse? I have a 09 TL-SHAWD with 144K miles and it's been leaking for the last 25K. Was quoted around $1200 to repair but I'm just not that inclined to get fixed as it doesn't seem to leak all that much. No oil spots on garage floor or anything, just a wet oil pan mainly as shown in your video.
So it will get progressively worse but usually pretty slowly. If you can live with it, it never really becomes a catastrophic failure. Just have to make sure your oil level is always good if you have leaks.
My Honda Accord 2014 has some leaks exactly like the car shown in this video, I usually change oil with 10.000 km (6.000 mi) and the oil level doesn't lower even though the place close to the timing belt and crankshaft is always wet with oil. Awesome video.
Great overall job! I wonder why the customer did not replace both the camshaft seals since you got all the belts off already. How do you replace the camshaft seals anyway? Will the pulley move when unscrewing the bolts?
We used to change them every service a long time ago, but over time as we gained experience, we started to learn that those seals, 90% of the time will last the life of the car, so we only change them if they’re leaking now. When I do them, I usually break the 17mm bolts loose while the belt is still on. I use a cam gear holder and a high leverage ratchet wrench. Once they’re broken loose I’ll set TDC then take the belt off. This way everything stays if you’re careful. The rear head can sometimes spring out of place but only very rarely.
@@SkillCollectors Also is there a reason why you replaced the front crankshaft seal while pump assembly is back on the car? Looks like it is easier to work with while the assembly is off? Thanks for all the advice!
@@9767momo No reason at all. I don't find it anymore difficult to remove it while the pump is installed, the engine does a great job of holding the pump while I use the puller :) As for installing the seal, there's less chance of damaging the seal in my opinion while the pump is already installed. Trying to maneuver the pump with a brand new crank seal installed and getting it to slide properly over the crank while also having wet hondabond on the pump is not fun haha, ask me how I know.
@@SkillCollectors The instruction said to apply the hondabond in about 5 mins. Without a lift, this will be super hard to accomplish. Any tips in this area especially the oil pan?
@@9767momo It's doable. Have everything prepped. Before you apply the hondabond, do some dry fits just so you have a good idea of how you have to maneuver the part into place. That way when the clock is ticking you're not panicking trying to get it to go into place smoothly.
They're both the same engine pretty much, j37 just a slightly bored out j35 with exhaust VTEC. Some other differences like cylinder sleeves, but everything is about the same and interchangeable.
Just got a question, so you’re only putting HondaBond on the oil pan mating surface by itself right not on both the oil pan and the mating surface of the motor? Thanks!
Highly informative video! So, how long does it take from start to finish? A Honda specialist auto shop (not a Honda dealer) near me quoted me $1095 because it is a big job. Thanks
Buenas noches amigo por favor ayúdeme desde ayer estoy luchando para poner esa misma pieza y no he podido cuando la pongo no entra bien y no puedo atornillarla gracias amigo
I am the original owner of a 07 Accord V6 with 150k. Gonna try this. Can you recommend a good site to purchase all the parts needed? Other than OEM can you also recommend a good manufacturer? Denso vs AISIN, would either be better in this process?
Send it dude. Aisin (Waterpump), Mitsuboshi (Timing Belt), Aisin (Timing Belt Tensioner), Bando (Serpentine Belt), NOK (Crank seal) and I would stick to Hondabond for the sealant. Those are all OEM parts, same crap you would get from Honda except not in Honda packaging. As far as where to order from, I'm not sure, they get all the parts through various distributors where I work and I'm not a part of the ordering process.
@@silversurfer702 I would go with OEM for those misc. O-rings. Here's a link to a diagram with part numbers that I found through google. www.hondapartsonline.net/v-2006-honda-accord--ex--3-0l-v6-gas/engine--oil-pump-v6
Would this be the same engine as a 2015 Honda Accord V6 I’m guessing it’s the J series having a leak around the same areas was going to replace just the gaskets on the oil filter housing but seems it’s much more
All j series are about the same. If yours is a V6 then it's the same procedure as this. It's a easy job, just takes time. No special tools required. Replace timing kit while in there, use the aisin kit with water pump. Need a gallon of coolant, and a tube of Honda bond. Tools I used, Milwaukee M18 high torque 1/2 impact, crank pulley heavy weight 19mm socket, crank pulley holder tool, Jack and stands, 3/8 socket set, 1/2 socket set, extensions, universal swivel adapter, 1/2 torque wrench, 3/8 torque wrench. Think that's about it. When installing the crank bolt it calls to torque to like 85lbs then like 60 degrees, I just torqued it to 85, marked the bolt at 60 degrees and impacted it. Was much easier than trying to use a breaker bar, it's on there like 300ft lbs. Coming off it's much more than 300, as I was jumping on my 3 foot 1/2 inch breaker bar and bent it lol. After that I went to home Depot and got the Milwaukee impact and that spun it right off. Good luck
It's pretty labor intensive. I'm not too familiar with all the costs because I mainly just do the work (don't make the estimates) but I think the t-belt/water pump service alone with all OEM parts runs about $1k and to add the oil pump re-seal it adds about $500 to that. Sometimes the oil pump is ok though and it's a leak from up top like the P/S pump. In this case, this customer had both leaks (however I have seen the oil pump be MUCH worse than this, I would not consider this that bad, but they made the call and wanted to do it).
Yeah man, Toyota is just much easier in general. I couldn’t imagine people having to do this job in the rust belt having to deal with those rusty bolts being even worse.
@@SkillCollectors Rust is evil😂. i live in the rust belt and it makes every car repair 10x worse. always gets in your eyes when repairing stuff, even with safety glasses on.
@@ducttapeandwrenchesyes yes it is! Rust I mean! I am so glad my kids and my Wife got me a Venom Mini-Ductor, induction heater for Christmas a couple years ago. It makes all the difference!
😂😂😂 if you think that's a horrible design... what until you start working on domestic cars. Listen... every manufacturer has some "dumb flaws" but Honda & Toyota are the easier vehicles to work on.
I changed my oil today and noticed oil leaking from behind the timing belt cover and behind the oil filter mount. This video is a great step by step guide of what extra steps to expect when I do my next timing belt to reseal the oil pump.
Thanks for shooting this so I can learn.
-Bill Behr
I'm glad you found some value in it :)
Finally a diy video to show a mechanic's struggle to remove the exhaust bolt. Thank you!
Believe I have the same leak on my 2014 Odyssey. Awesome tutorial...please keep it coming.
i worked on one where it took a full minute impacting on full power with a milwaukee mid torque LOL.
Great video! Video quality and narration was great.
After I replaced the timing belt on my 07 Accord V6 (J30A5 engine) and before starting the car for the first time, I put a long ratchet on the crank pulley bolt and turned the engine over by hand several full revolutions to make sure there was no valve contact. I was paranoid and wanted to be super safe :D
BTW, FelPro now makes an oil pan gasket for most, if not all, Honda V6 engines so it eliminates dealing with Honda Bond on that part of the job. It's their T series and I have one on my '98 CRV and I absolutely love it....they just don't leak. The one for my '05 Pilot is a little over $35 on RockAuto so that's the way I'll be going when I tackle this job in July. Great vid...thanks!
As a Honda tech I’ve done a few of these. Had the unfortunate one the other day where I put it back together and fired it up just for it to pour oil out of the housing. Tore it back down to find that the o-ring on the back of the pump moved and pinched. I even cleaned all the goo out from that track and put a light bit of HB over the o ring. Crappy job to do over for free but had it back running before lunch!
That sucks having to do that job twice. I've been there with other o-rings, where you're certain you got it in it's groove and somehow it gets pinched. Shit happens, just gotta fix it and move on :D
Slow down
is the reseal all that is needed? I have 180k and im doing the T-belt job again and i was told to replace the pump. Why would the pump be bad?
Great instructional video, Glad you didn't skip any steps. The lighting was amazing aswell as the video quality.
Great video, thanks! Only one question, why not to replace the crank seal when the pump is out, is there a reason for that?
Thanks for taking the time to share this!
I got an 04 and have the same problem 😭 I need a friend like you good job
Very nice video. This has really inspired me to do all of this with my j35 out and in my garage before it gets swapped in my TL
Heck yeah, get after it!
Excellent video with great camera angles. This will help many understand the process. My only gripe is lack of torque wrench??
I'm definitely guilty of not using a torque wrench on not as critical bolts, I mentioned that in another one of my videos. I do use it on more important fasteners though, like head bolts, wheel studs, drivetrain stuff, etc. You're right though, I should put a disclaimer telling people with less experience that they should be torquing stuff with a proper torque wrench. I tell all my guys at work to do it. I've become that old guy that thinks he has a built in torque meter in my wrists lol
@@SkillCollectors if you know what you're doing, you DO have a built in meter! With of course, the disclaimer you already mentioned about crucial items like head bolts, lug nuts/bolts, etc.
Just found your channel and subscribed,good video. I’m a Technician at a Honda dealership and got a laugh at your statement about Honda Bond and making sure you don’t bump anything while putting the part back in, Honda Bond is like axel grease one drop get everywhere!
Haha, I have permanently stained clothes because of hondabond 🤦♂️
That's an RL, great job on the reseal!
You sir are correct, oops. They all start to look the same to me haha
Nice video, you should like the Valco Tube grip in the description. trying to get a consistent bead of hondabond can be tricky at first the Valco makes it look easy.
You have great vids, keep uploading them. Success takes time, it's only a matter of time
Thank you, I really appreciate that.
i have 3.0 1999 honda accord and i did the timing belt my self and i did not do the oring on the oil pump it is leaking know i like your video step by step nice A+.
does the oil pump re-seal fix the leak or does the oil pump need to be replaced?
Hi, great video!
How can you tell if it is the oil pump that is leaking or the oil filter housing that is leaking? I have a 2007 RL and I can see oil leaking from the oil filter housing area but not 100% sure if it is not really the oil pump that is leaking.
Actually... thinking about this a bit and if the oil pump was leaking, wouldn't the timing belt become oil drenched as well whereas, if it were the oil filter housing that was leaking, the timing belt would be dry?
I have my timing belt exposed as I am in the midst of changing the timing belt and W/P and it looks bone dry; old but bone dry. So I think that would make me think the leak is from the oil filter housing and not the from the oil pump. Does that make any sense?
The best way is to thoroughly clean and dry everything and see if you can trace the leak with some kind of dye added to the oil. The other way is to remove the timing covers and visually look at it but that requires a lot of work. If it's leaking from the oil pump it tends to stick close the the block and leak out the rear above the oil filter housing therefore never touching the timing belt.
Thanks for making this video! I just purchased a 2012 Acura MDX with 86k miles on it. I'm planning to do the timing belt/water pump soon. How common is this oil pump seal failure? Would it be wise to do that as well while I have it torn down that far? Thanks
It was really common on older V6's, pre-2010. We only re-seal it if it's leaking, simply because it adds quite a bit more to the work order. If you don't have an oil leak, I wouldn't mess with it. Down the road if it does start to leak, it's not hard to pull the t-belt to re-seal.
It's not common at all lol idk what he talking about, he thinking of the old j32 and the j37 the j35y is reliable as they come
Just noticed this same leak in my 2007 TL type S … 😅 yay!
It wasn't clear from the video how you determined the oil pump seal was leaking. I saw a little bit of oil on a bolt above the crank, but that was it. Most of the oil was along the bottom it appeared. Did you also replace the oil filter housing seal? That's a common leakage point as well. I'm hoping that's the source of my leak because I'm not looking forward to doing the oil pump seal. Looks like a pita.
The seal on the pump leaks down onto the oil pan, it's not the pan itself
i have same thing . i have to remove engine out or the car do all leak from oil pump and rear main seal vtec solenoid gasket one time done
The dealer identified this leak on my 06 TL this week and gave an estimate of $3200, which included timing belt kit install. I'm in northern VA, which is a really expensive area, and they said it was 10 hrs labor @ $195/hr plus OEM parts so the math works out. Unfortunately my power steering pump is leaking, too, and the oil pan was stripped a few years ago and has an oversized plug, so "might as well" replace them , too! Adds up to at least $4500 at the dealer so probably will look for a cheaper shop.
Hey man question : is there ever a reason u should replace that whole oil filter housing itself? Spool valve assembly whatever u call it? Or is it just that gasket that needs replacing?
I’ve never had to change one of those before, typically just re-seal with new gaskets/o-rings if needed.
@@SkillCollectors Hold your horse.....what about in the case of cross threading when you re-install the oil filter housing after changing a gasket/solenoid? 😅😅😅I "maybe" didn't tighten some of the bolts on straight...and have a small leak now.
Perhaps the old gaskets picked up some debris?
Hello! Great video!
What tool is that you use for the Hondabond?
Great vid, they should use Viton on all the rubber seals, at least available aftermarket.
Great video! Thanks for sharing it with the world. I'm curious, at 18:53, I noticed you were using a spray in combination with a Brillo pad. What's the spray you're using?
Glad it was helpful. That’s just carb/brake clean. We buy it in bulk and put into those sureshot cans then use shop air to pressurize them.
In your opinion will this sort of leak if left alone get progressively worse? I have a 09 TL-SHAWD with 144K miles and it's been leaking for the last 25K. Was quoted around $1200 to repair but I'm just not that inclined to get fixed as it doesn't seem to leak all that much. No oil spots on garage floor or anything, just a wet oil pan mainly as shown in your video.
So it will get progressively worse but usually pretty slowly. If you can live with it, it never really becomes a catastrophic failure. Just have to make sure your oil level is always good if you have leaks.
My Honda Accord 2014 has some leaks exactly like the car shown in this video, I usually change oil with 10.000 km (6.000 mi) and the oil level doesn't lower even though the place close to the timing belt and crankshaft is always wet with oil. Awesome video.
Great overall job! I wonder why the customer did not replace both the camshaft seals since you got all the belts off already. How do you replace the camshaft seals anyway? Will the pulley move when unscrewing the bolts?
We used to change them every service a long time ago, but over time as we gained experience, we started to learn that those seals, 90% of the time will last the life of the car, so we only change them if they’re leaking now. When I do them, I usually break the 17mm bolts loose while the belt is still on. I use a cam gear holder and a high leverage ratchet wrench. Once they’re broken loose I’ll set TDC then take the belt off. This way everything stays if you’re careful. The rear head can sometimes spring out of place but only very rarely.
@@SkillCollectors Also is there a reason why you replaced the front crankshaft seal while pump assembly is back on the car? Looks like it is easier to work with while the assembly is off? Thanks for all the advice!
@@9767momo No reason at all. I don't find it anymore difficult to remove it while the pump is installed, the engine does a great job of holding the pump while I use the puller :) As for installing the seal, there's less chance of damaging the seal in my opinion while the pump is already installed. Trying to maneuver the pump with a brand new crank seal installed and getting it to slide properly over the crank while also having wet hondabond on the pump is not fun haha, ask me how I know.
@SkillCollectors, Good to know!
I need to do this change out this week!
Very detailed video. Great job! Would you know where to get a diagram of the oil pump sealant bead layout?
Thanks, I don't have a diagram but at about 20:26 I start to apply the hondabond if you wanted to use that as a guide.
@@SkillCollectors The instruction said to apply the hondabond in about 5 mins. Without a lift, this will be super hard to accomplish. Any tips in this area especially the oil pan?
@@9767momo It's doable. Have everything prepped. Before you apply the hondabond, do some dry fits just so you have a good idea of how you have to maneuver the part into place. That way when the clock is ticking you're not panicking trying to get it to go into place smoothly.
@@9767momo jack up the motor really high and the oil pan will slip in.
Would you recommend using 1 or 2 tubes of Honda bond for the oil pan and oil pump?
I typically use less than 1 tube. You don’t want to cake it on too much.
Could a leaking oil pump look like a rear main seal leak?
Did they swap the j37 for a j35? Looks like a j37. 09-12 RL. Probably similar or same procedure on both engines. Thanks for the tutorial.
They're both the same engine pretty much, j37 just a slightly bored out j35 with exhaust VTEC. Some other differences like cylinder sleeves, but everything is about the same and interchangeable.
Just got a question, so you’re only putting HondaBond on the oil pan mating surface by itself right not on both the oil pan and the mating surface of the motor? Thanks!
That is correct.
@@SkillCollectors thank you brotha!
Highly informative video! So, how long does it take from start to finish? A Honda specialist auto shop (not a Honda dealer) near me quoted me $1095 because it is a big job. Thanks
Like 6ish hours usually. It’s a big job but I’ve done enough to bring the time down a little.
My acura dealership said i need a oil pump service due to leak....do they basically mean that the gasket is bad or that the oil pump is going bad??
Usually the o-ring just leaks. I don't think I've ever seen a bad oil pump on a Honda engine.
@@SkillCollectors thanks
Is this the same motor in my 2011 Honda Pilot? Nice video!
Mostly the same, yes.
Would it be easier to replace crank seal with the oil pump off?
I find it easier to do it with the pump installed. Makes getting the lip around the crank easier in my opinion.
Hi how r u today
What are the torque specs on the boat to the crank Polly
And is the timing belt tensioner what tool is that called
Cleaning the oil pump, the little green tank of liquid. What liquid is it? Thanks.
It's just brake clean and a green scotch brite pad. We get brake clean in bulk so we fill and pressurize those tanks ourselves.
Thank you.
Buenas noches amigo por favor ayúdeme desde ayer estoy luchando para poner esa misma pieza y no he podido cuando la pongo no entra bien y no puedo atornillarla gracias amigo
I am the original owner of a 07 Accord V6 with 150k. Gonna try this. Can you recommend a good site to purchase all the parts needed? Other than OEM can you also recommend a good manufacturer? Denso vs AISIN, would either be better in this process?
Send it dude. Aisin (Waterpump), Mitsuboshi (Timing Belt), Aisin (Timing Belt Tensioner), Bando (Serpentine Belt), NOK (Crank seal) and I would stick to Hondabond for the sealant. Those are all OEM parts, same crap you would get from Honda except not in Honda packaging. As far as where to order from, I'm not sure, they get all the parts through various distributors where I work and I'm not a part of the ordering process.
@@SkillCollectors Big thanks. Sending it now!!
@@SkillCollectors Also, can you recommend the name of the rubber gaskets you replaced in the Oil pan and oil pump ?
@@silversurfer702 I would go with OEM for those misc. O-rings. Here's a link to a diagram with part numbers that I found through google. www.hondapartsonline.net/v-2006-honda-accord--ex--3-0l-v6-gas/engine--oil-pump-v6
Very nice 👌 👍 👏
Thank you! Cheers!
Would this be the same engine as a 2015 Honda Accord V6 I’m guessing it’s the J series having a leak around the same areas was going to replace just the gaskets on the oil filter housing but seems it’s much more
All j series are about the same. If yours is a V6 then it's the same procedure as this. It's a easy job, just takes time. No special tools required. Replace timing kit while in there, use the aisin kit with water pump. Need a gallon of coolant, and a tube of Honda bond. Tools I used, Milwaukee M18 high torque 1/2 impact, crank pulley heavy weight 19mm socket, crank pulley holder tool, Jack and stands, 3/8 socket set, 1/2 socket set, extensions, universal swivel adapter, 1/2 torque wrench, 3/8 torque wrench. Think that's about it. When installing the crank bolt it calls to torque to like 85lbs then like 60 degrees, I just torqued it to 85, marked the bolt at 60 degrees and impacted it. Was much easier than trying to use a breaker bar, it's on there like 300ft lbs. Coming off it's much more than 300, as I was jumping on my 3 foot 1/2 inch breaker bar and bent it lol. After that I went to home Depot and got the Milwaukee impact and that spun it right off. Good luck
In order to re-seal the oil pump, is it necessary to first remove the oil pan and the oil filter housing bracket? Please advise.
Yep, because the oil pick up tube bolts directly to the bottom of the oil pump and it's only accessible with the oil pan taken off.
@@SkillCollectors Thanks
That crank seal. Are u just pressing it straight in basically?
Push as far as I can by hand then use a drift and gently tap it in evenly until flush.
Hmm!...how much would a service like this cost? I have an 07 RL tech 135k, probably need this service done as well! BTW great job!
It's pretty labor intensive. I'm not too familiar with all the costs because I mainly just do the work (don't make the estimates) but I think the t-belt/water pump service alone with all OEM parts runs about $1k and to add the oil pump re-seal it adds about $500 to that. Sometimes the oil pump is ok though and it's a leak from up top like the P/S pump. In this case, this customer had both leaks (however I have seen the oil pump be MUCH worse than this, I would not consider this that bad, but they made the call and wanted to do it).
@@SkillCollectors I appreciate your knowledge and response, thanks!
@@a.c.6475 Anytime! Thanks for watching.
Were are you located
The dad in me wants to see you wearing safety glasses when your under the car…! Lol
Oh boy, wait till you see my next vid. I know I know, I'm so bad at wearing them, they give me a headache.
You need to wear eye protection when you're under there removing rusty exhaust components. I learned the hard way years ago....better safe than sorry.
I paid 2800 for the same job with spark plugs, I understand why
This fix is not cheap
no torque wrench
Built into my hands haha
What a horrible design! Why does it have to involve exhaust? I did the same thing on a Toyota. Much easier
Yeah man, Toyota is just much easier in general. I couldn’t imagine people having to do this job in the rust belt having to deal with those rusty bolts being even worse.
@@SkillCollectors Rust is evil😂. i live in the rust belt and it makes every car repair 10x worse. always gets in your eyes when repairing stuff, even with safety glasses on.
The Honda V6 is usually super easy to work on. & the company has made changes to make it even easier.
@@ducttapeandwrenchesyes yes it is! Rust I mean!
I am so glad my kids and my Wife got me a Venom Mini-Ductor, induction heater for Christmas a couple years ago.
It makes all the difference!
😂😂😂 if you think that's a horrible design... what until you start working on domestic cars. Listen... every manufacturer has some "dumb flaws" but Honda & Toyota are the easier vehicles to work on.