I like your panel cart. It’s a great idea. I picked a different one up but I’ve decided to take it back. I bought a crazy horse dolly and that’s awesome. Thanks for posting.
As a semi retired joiner/cabinetmaker from New Zealand who has a Casadei KS 30 dimension saw a couple of tips.. 1..get some 6mm perspex and make a flip stop from it and tap and bolt on to the blade side of the stop.Reset scale on fence to allow for perspex and it's all good. When doing cuts this avoids slippage on the fence as 1st position is against aluminum stop and 2nd position is against perspex stop which is the measurement required. 2.. get your friendly electrician to wire in a second on/off switch in an easily accessible position and 3.. get him to connect the extractor to this switch so when you turn on the saw the extractor comes on/off as required. It's not that hard and it's been on my saw for 12 years.
I also have a just a small worshop and i do waste more time on the pushing stuff around then actually working. For such pannels i reverted to a track saw, easier to handle and overall is faster. Yes you do have to measure, mark, adjust but still faster.
Same here....track saw just makes more sense in small work shop like this. But I'm in the same situation...I move three things out of the way to do one thing. Then the three things I just moved are on the next table I need to use...and so on. Frustrating. I spend a lot of time trying to rearrange my shop.
one of the reasons the switch is in the front is because european sliders were /are designed around the standard sizes of plywood , osb etc which are about 2 meters long ( 6 ft. ) and less than three feet wide . There may be other reasons as well, but it's definitely NOT a design flaw .
Even a 6 foot panel will make you crawl under the plywood to turn machine on when ripping long ways. If I had another person to help place the board on the saw then could turn on and then load. Since I load by myself don't like loading with saw on. They could have put another switch on the planer side
As with any saw you have to make sure the alignment is tuned up. I got lucky, from the factory the 90 and 45 degree settings were dead on when checking against my Woodpecker and machining square.
I'm thinking of getting a C3 31 but not sure which configuration. My shop 24x32. Wondering, are you comfortable cutting 4x8 panels lengthwise on the comfort? If you had the space, would you get the perform model over the comfort?
I wouldn't say it is comfortable if you have to rip a 4x8 sheet long ways. The slider on the C3 31 has a 7 foot limit so you have to push the last foot through. I do not cut full length 8 ft that often and usually cut the panels on the 4ft side first. If you cut a lot of panels the full 7+ foot then and have the space I would get the bigger machine. I could move things around in my 18ftx20ft building to make the larger machine work. Suggest you lay out the dimensions of the 2 machines horizontally and vertically on your shop floor first.
@@customallwooddesign2905 Thx for all replies. Got the comfort c3-31 several months ago and I'm very satisfied. I'm getting used to the shortcomings of the 78" slider but this is much better (spacewise) than all separate machines I had before in 24x32 shop. Now I have a lot of space for assembly tables, 18ìn bandsaw and lathe by the window. Had to modify cutting schedule with melamine panels... Don't know why they limit ripping capacity at 23+in, I get 24+in myself. Very straight and true out of the crate.
I think there are alternative power on and off available as an option. Maybe not for your model, but it is work asking about. Understand the Hammer line is the economy units of the multi saws. The 741 series may include things that the Hammers do not have. I agree with you that the saw in it's current form is unusable.
Are you talking about when he grabs the stock behind the anti kickback plate? Nothing wrong with that. He’s working perfectly safely here. I have no idea why people feel obliged to whinge about people’s techniques on these video comments… 😕 I would get seriously annoyed if I were the uploader.
Why don't you cut off the waste side of the plywood on the sliding table. That way there is more wood on it and it is easier to handle. I have the same saw and have cut lots of plywood. And yes the ON button should be somewhere else.
Trying to understand what you are saying. The reason I did it this way is so I could use the stop on the fence to repeat the width cuts without measuring. Think I see what you are saying and sliding the plywood would be easier. Will have to try that..
How big is your shop there? The camera looks like a wide angled camera and so judjing it's size is a bit difficult. I'm asking as I will soon be purchasing the same machine and want to get a view on how much space it actually takes up. My shop is about 16 feet x 16 feet (ish)
@LeeSteventon - I've only just seen this video and your comment (so sorry if this is too late) but I have the exact same machine which I use in my garage, which is about 17 x 17 feet, it's tight but you can definitely make it work. I do find myself taking the outrigger on and off when I'm not using the machine, but that's a small price to pay and it always goes back square. As @Custom All Wood Design says, the placing of the only "On" switch can be a pain with full sized sheets, but once they are down to a more manageable size it's not really an issue.
I like your panel cart. It’s a great idea. I picked a different one up but I’ve decided to take it back. I bought a crazy horse dolly and that’s awesome. Thanks for posting.
As a semi retired joiner/cabinetmaker from New Zealand who has a Casadei KS 30 dimension saw a couple of tips..
1..get some 6mm perspex and make a flip stop from it and tap and bolt on to the blade side of the stop.Reset scale on fence to allow for perspex and it's all good. When doing cuts this avoids slippage on the fence as 1st position is against aluminum stop and 2nd position is against perspex stop which is the measurement required.
2.. get your friendly electrician to wire in a second on/off switch in an easily accessible position and 3.. get him to connect the extractor to this switch so when you turn on the saw the extractor comes on/off as required. It's not that hard and it's been on my saw for 12 years.
I also have a just a small worshop and i do waste more time on the pushing stuff around then actually working. For such pannels i reverted to a track saw, easier to handle and overall is faster. Yes you do have to measure, mark, adjust but still faster.
Same here....track saw just makes more sense in small work shop like this. But I'm in the same situation...I move three things out of the way to do one thing. Then the three things I just moved are on the next table I need to use...and so on. Frustrating. I spend a lot of time trying to rearrange my shop.
one of the reasons the switch is in the front is because european sliders were /are designed around the standard sizes of plywood , osb etc which are about 2 meters long ( 6 ft. ) and less than three feet wide . There may be other reasons as well, but it's definitely NOT a design flaw .
Even a 6 foot panel will make you crawl under the plywood to turn machine on when ripping long ways. If I had another person to help place the board on the saw then could turn on and then load. Since I load by myself don't like loading with saw on. They could have put another switch on the planer side
How accurate is this Hammer saw? I would like to know how square the pieces come out after cutting them?
As with any saw you have to make sure the alignment is tuned up. I got lucky, from the factory the 90 and 45 degree settings were dead on when checking against my Woodpecker and machining square.
U can adjust and tune everthing everywhere on this maschine.
Nice shop. What is the name of the panel handling gizmo that you use to hold and flip 4x8 panels in your video?
Bora Portamate - Panel Carrier PM-1800
I'm thinking of getting a C3 31 but not sure which configuration. My shop 24x32. Wondering, are you comfortable cutting 4x8 panels lengthwise on the comfort? If you had the space, would you get the perform model over the comfort?
I wouldn't say it is comfortable if you have to rip a 4x8 sheet long ways. The slider on the C3 31 has a 7 foot limit so you have to push the last foot through. I do not cut full length 8 ft that often and usually cut the panels on the 4ft side first. If you cut a lot of panels the full 7+ foot then and have the space I would get the bigger machine. I could move things around in my 18ftx20ft building to make the larger machine work. Suggest you lay out the dimensions of the 2 machines horizontally and vertically on your shop floor first.
@@customallwooddesign2905 Thx for all replies. Got the comfort c3-31 several months ago and I'm very satisfied. I'm getting used to the shortcomings of the 78" slider but this is much better (spacewise) than all separate machines I had before in 24x32 shop. Now I have a lot of space for assembly tables, 18ìn bandsaw and lathe by the window. Had to modify cutting schedule with melamine panels... Don't know why they limit ripping capacity at 23+in, I get 24+in myself. Very straight and true out of the crate.
Tks guy look at this machine myself but not sure of the cost
I think there are alternative power on and off available as an option. Maybe not for your model, but it is work asking about. Understand the Hammer line is the economy units of the multi saws. The 741 series may include things that the Hammers do not have. I agree with you that the saw in it's current form is unusable.
"The saw in its current form is unusuable " lol and yet he was able to make the cut . that hardly qualifies as un useable
FELDER said I would have to do myself. They said other customers have done this
How would you cut it the 8 foot length ? As the table doesn't quite do 8 feet.
You can do it using the fence like any other table saw with out using the sliding table and locking it in place so it does not move..
You keep grabbing the tail end of your stock at the back of the blade your gonna end up minus some fingers…
Are you talking about when he grabs the stock behind the anti kickback plate? Nothing wrong with that. He’s working perfectly safely here. I have no idea why people feel obliged to whinge about people’s techniques on these video comments… 😕 I would get seriously annoyed if I were the uploader.
What is the total table stroke on that slider? Thx
7 feet
Why don't you cut off the waste side of the plywood on the sliding table. That way there is more wood on it and it is easier to handle. I have the same saw and have cut lots of plywood. And yes the ON button should be somewhere else.
Trying to understand what you are saying. The reason I did it this way is so I could use the stop on the fence to repeat the width cuts without measuring. Think I see what you are saying and sliding the plywood would be easier. Will have to try that..
That was torture .... and with such a large heavy falloff those long straight rollers could def track the piece away from the fence
How big is your shop there? The camera looks like a wide angled camera and so judjing it's size is a bit difficult. I'm asking as I will soon be purchasing the same machine and want to get a view on how much space it actually takes up. My shop is about 16 feet x 16 feet (ish)
My shop is 18 x 21 feet , should have built it 21 x 21
@LeeSteventon - I've only just seen this video and your comment (so sorry if this is too late) but I have the exact same machine which I use in my garage, which is about 17 x 17 feet, it's tight but you can definitely make it work. I do find myself taking the outrigger on and off when I'm not using the machine, but that's a small price to pay and it always goes back square. As @Custom All Wood Design says, the placing of the only "On" switch can be a pain with full sized sheets, but once they are down to a more manageable size it's not really an issue.