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3:15 wrong dude. So wrong.

Are you still satisfied with your felder power feeder, I’m about to purchase but before I do, I’d like to know how yours performs. Do the wheels still grab the material without slipping? Anything you can tell me about the feeder would be appreciated >

Gaslift option

can you show a picture of how you attached the power feeder ( I have the same jointer/planer ......thanks

The safety fence is a disaster, scrap it.

Your sliding table should be locked, and the feeder lowered a mm or two. When timber is fed in be at the outfeed and assist if necessary.

one of the reasons the switch is in the front is because european sliders were /are designed around the standard sizes of plywood , osb etc which are about 2 meters long ( 6 ft. ) and less than three feet wide . There may be other reasons as well, but it's definitely NOT a design flaw .

You set up simply by 5mm in height less the thickness height and set parallel to the rip fence then swivel the feeder about 5 degrees towards the outward feed of the rollers at the 5 mitute position of a clock looking down from above . This is so it keeps the ripping pressure against the rip fence.,and have the rip fence past the last roller of the auto feeder. This also applies to the spindle moulder ,Always keep wheels about 12mm away from the saw bade and same with shaper..CHECK ALL LOCK HANDLES tight i always do a dry run " lowering the blade of saw or shaper head. Then pass timber throgh if under Auto feed power, all behaves and tight .then bring the saw up to desired hight.same when auto feeding the shaper, WIth all parts turned OFF check spindle /SHAPER CUTTERS DONT HIT THE WHEELS IF YOU HAVE OVERHEAD PROFILE CUTTERS you may remove the middle wheel and repeat the above checks. Thi advice is only a guide not absoloute text book ,but check with other users or trained woodmachinists.

Very hard to hear the video and a bit long winded sorry to say

You keep grabbing the tail end of your stock at the back of the blade your gonna end up minus some fingers…

I like your panel cart. It’s a great idea. I picked a different one up but I’ve decided to take it back. I bought a crazy horse dolly and that’s awesome. Thanks for posting.

It’s important to know that although this will work to make the piece smooth, it won’t take our twist or flatten a cupped board. Jointers and power feeders aren’t good buddies. They really shouldn’t be used together to flatten. The material would have to be very thick and resist bending with pressure from feeder. But cool video to show what you can do with feeders.

You shouldn’t have these types of issues on a saw that is in that price group. I was considering buying a felder but have gone off the idea. There are far too many complaints about customer service and quality issues here in Europe.

I did it with Woodglut.

I think there are alternative power on and off available as an option. Maybe not for your model, but it is work asking about. Understand the Hammer line is the economy units of the multi saws. The 741 series may include things that the Hammers do not have. I agree with you that the saw in it's current form is unusable.

You need to put the feeder on the outfeed side of the joiner

Have the same jig for my c3-31 and ran a whole skid of black ash ... saved me a lot of time on the edge jointer. Mine is 9 feet long to accommodate rough 8ft + lumber. Another time saver is an electronic power feeder for face jointing. Those two steps in squaring lumber save me an enormous amount of time, and wood... and more enjoyable. Thanx for sharing.

good video! what hp is that feeder?

I also have a just a small worshop and i do waste more time on the pushing stuff around then actually working. For such pannels i reverted to a track saw, easier to handle and overall is faster. Yes you do have to measure, mark, adjust but still faster.

Just a suggestion, when attempting to drill through the 8' 1x 8", try placing the drill location on a flat surface to prevent the plank from flexing as you drill. It was painful watching you try to use that Forster bit at the end of the plank.

Why did you opt for the Felder 308 vs the Hammer H32 feeder ?

I've got the same issue with the fence kept in vertical. The solution is a strong Magnet to be placed beside the fence. With that, the guide will be fixed and steady!! Look at the following, as an example: www.amazon.it/gp/product/B000VH8040/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very useful..!!! thank you...

Hi. Super tip to stop the rip fence flexing. A little common sense goes a long way. Tony

Hi. Great idea making the long auxiliary sliding table incorporating the machined table slot as a guide. Just found your channel you have a nice size workshop and some well built wood machines. Looks like you perform some interesting operations. Just sub'd. Tony

Well done great suggestions and help I am an owner of the hammer c331 too and just started getting my new workshop set up. So happy to find your site. Stay safe from Australia

Well done.can you give me dimensions you did for that table please or send a photo of the back. Thank you from Australia

I have a the same combination table saw so it’s lovely to follow you. As a women wood worker it’s hard to join wood working clubs lol

How would you cut it the 8 foot length ? As the table doesn't quite do 8 feet.

I have a Hammer C3 31 and a N4400. Both are GREAT machines. Veeeery precise, very accurate, very powerful and because of that, very usefull. I got the silent power version for the combinated machine and, no neighbor can say a word about noise.

Why don't you cut off the waste side of the plywood on the sliding table. That way there is more wood on it and it is easier to handle. I have the same saw and have cut lots of plywood. And yes the ON button should be somewhere else.

very helpful thanks

How accurate is this Hammer saw? I would like to know how square the pieces come out after cutting them?

Look, I appreciate this video as I’m on the fence about the ct-va. But your audio sounds as if you recorded it IN a cyclone.

As a semi retired joiner/cabinetmaker from New Zealand who has a Casadei KS 30 dimension saw a couple of tips.. 1..get some 6mm perspex and make a flip stop from it and tap and bolt on to the blade side of the stop.Reset scale on fence to allow for perspex and it's all good. When doing cuts this avoids slippage on the fence as 1st position is against aluminum stop and 2nd position is against perspex stop which is the measurement required. 2.. get your friendly electrician to wire in a second on/off switch in an easily accessible position and 3.. get him to connect the extractor to this switch so when you turn on the saw the extractor comes on/off as required. It's not that hard and it's been on my saw for 12 years.

Hi, thank you for your video! I've been using the same combination for two years with great results. I would recommend to change the position of your feeder with the first feeding roll starting right BEHIND the edge of your outfeed table. Your setup might tend to reproduce any warp or crook in your board because the main pressure is on your infeed table, especially when flattening shorter boards.

I don’t have the flip mount that you have but I reckon that it would be much easier to flip (up and down) if you first lowered the feeder so the weight is as close as you can get it to the pivot point. Alternatively, the way I move my feeder around my shop is to drop the feed head off on the table top and move it in two pieces. So, if you could store the feed head in a separate location and keep the arm mounted to the pivot plate, it would also be much easier.

What is the total table stroke on that slider? Thx

hello, is the bandsaw a felder 510 or 610 ? best regards from bavaria bernhard

I'm thinking of getting a C3 31 but not sure which configuration. My shop 24x32. Wondering, are you comfortable cutting 4x8 panels lengthwise on the comfort? If you had the space, would you get the perform model over the comfort?

Nice shop. What is the name of the panel handling gizmo that you use to hold and flip 4x8 panels in your video?

This problem of the main blade running into the scoring blade (using a 12" (315 mm) blade) is a POOR design for this machine. And the reason I did not buy this saw. It can be very dangerous if the blade hits the scoring blade. it HAS happened sadly. Yes, I know that Felder has sold kadzillion of these saws, but it is still poor design to have to fight this malady. The reason for this is: MOST woodworkers do not know how awesome it is to use a "scoring blade". Thus: MOST never use it; or even buy it in the first place. That is sad indeed. If they ever got used to one, they would NEVER be without it. For it insures 100% free and clean cutting on the bottom of the stock on all materials. I know of NO blade that does not cause some bottom "blow out" of the wood fibers regardless of their ads. Yes, they can make it better, but it is NEVER like when using a scoring blade. For with the SB it creates a perfect cut on the bottom the same, as on top. The only problem with a SB is the adjustment; so to make the width, height and location of the SB in perfect alignment with the main blade. This must be done whenever you use a different width main blade. Note: The best way to cut clean; without a SB, is to lower the main blade; so it only cuts no higher than 1/8" while running the stock from back to front (scoring the bottom of the stock). There is little to no danger doing this; especially on a sliding table saw. Then raise the main blade and cut through the stock normally. NO adjustment is needed; as to width and location of the score; for it is automatic no matter what main blade you use.

The 250MM Blade will clear the scoring blade when raised high. The 315MM shown in the video will not

Thanks for the informative video. Well done. Do you use your feeder for the jointer?

Please can you provide sub-titles as your diction is really bad.

How big is your shop there? The camera looks like a wide angled camera and so judjing it's size is a bit difficult. I'm asking as I will soon be purchasing the same machine and want to get a view on how much space it actually takes up. My shop is about 16 feet x 16 feet (ish)

CAWD in reply to your email to me about Felder and their response timing and general position on parts and purchases: all I can say is be ready for anything depending on which machine ( older tooling and knives) you buy and how badly you will need that machine to continue your work. I have owned a number of foreign cars and van and this comment about parts and service holds true for them also. Product knowledge is not the high point of the US stateside workers by any means. I purchased an Oneida cyclone that fits my Festool CT when I bought the 7.5hp Oneida cyclone (older model with plenum) and have been very happy with the performance and ease of the CT with the quick remove little cyclone. I use it with hand saws and sander and the Felder FD250 boring machine with great results. One experience that was my fault involved not keeping an eye on the meter vac gauge of the 7.5hp cyclone and I filled the 55 gal drum in 3 hours and also plugged the two 5' cyclone filters and it required 12 vac bags to clean up my mess!! If I had not had the small Oneida cyclone (translucent model-not the later black grounded wire cyclone) it would have been $$ to clean the mess. One can push and jockey steer the the CT by pushing on the Oneida mini cyclone; looks like this is not possible with your Festool cyclone. The Oneida is about $100 less and there are plastic garbage bags with draw strings at Walmart. I use the CT for the saw dust from all machines including the band saw interior. Bosch, which was my fav for years, has a larger portable vac. The CT (wet or dry) with 50MM accessories pack is very good for dust and wood chunks. The Festool cyclone design may not permit the large chunk pieces pickup. My basement sump switch was obstructed and I had 4-5" of basement water. The CT with wet filters and the 50MM vac head made the job easy. Good luck

This is very helpful, thank you. Your other videos are great also!

To make this even easier: AFTER you raise the tables, loosen lightly, the 4 screws holding the black cover, that is over the cutter spindle. Then when turning the spindle; use the existing large nut on the spindle; instead of trying to turn the cutter head by hand.

What kind of clamps are those?