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- Просмотров 117 162
Custom All Wood Design
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Добавлен 15 дек 2016
Bought a new camera to do videos and messed up on the setting on 4K, learning still. Anyway the settings places the video's in a high color definition that my current laptop can't handle for editing. To be able to edit the videos made with this setting I am having to build a high performance desktop. Hopefully can get this built soon so I can edit the videos and post.
Demonstration Videos of custom wood working in my shop building wood projects of cabinets, shelves, furniture and using tools. Demonstrating and evaluations of tools doing end to end complete projects.
Demonstration Videos of custom wood working in my shop building wood projects of cabinets, shelves, furniture and using tools. Demonstrating and evaluations of tools doing end to end complete projects.
A MUST HAVE !! Making Straight Line Rip Board for Felder Hammer. sliding table. There are no limits.
Making a Straight Line Ripping Board for a Felder Hammer C3 31 sliding table saw with a track hit. Easy way to put a a straight line rip on long boards. 8 feet no problem - 10 ,15 feet no problem. The size of the saw does not mean you are limited. This video shows me making the board that makes it possible.
Просмотров: 760
Видео
Fast process to flatten rough lumber using a feeder on a Felder C3 31 Jointer
Просмотров 6 тыс.5 лет назад
Had lots of hard maple to dimension for cabinet drawers. Using a Felder S308 Feeder on the Felder C3 31 Combination Machine Jointer to speed up the process
Install Scoring Blade in Felder C3 31 Combo Machine
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.5 лет назад
Install Scoring Blade in Felder C3 31 Combo Machine
Festool Cyclone CT-VA 20 in action
Просмотров 7 тыс.5 лет назад
Look and use of the new Festool Cyclone CT-VA 20
Cutting 4x8 Cabinet Panels on Felder C3 31
Просмотров 29 тыс.5 лет назад
Cutting 4x8 plywood for cabinet boxes on Felder C3 31 combo machine
Cutting Face Frames
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.7 лет назад
Cutting Face Frames - Chop Saw versus Hammer Sliding Table Saw
Joining and creating a 90 degree straight edge with Felder Hammer - Part 3
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.7 лет назад
Joining and creating a 90 degree straight edge on board stock on Felder Hammer - part 3
Tip for reducing fence flex on Felder Hammer C3 31
Просмотров 12 тыс.7 лет назад
Tip and trick I use for reducing fence flex on Felder Hammer C3 31
Planing boards on Felder Hammer C3 31
Просмотров 8 тыс.7 лет назад
Planing boards to dimension on Felder Hammer C3 31
Cleaning Planer Spiral Head on Felder Hammer C3 31
Просмотров 4,7 тыс.7 лет назад
Cleaning Planer / Joiner Spiral Head on Felder Hammer C3 31 Combination Machine
Ripping Stock and setup of Felder S308 Power Feeder
Просмотров 17 тыс.7 лет назад
Ripping Face Frame Stock. Setup, raising, and lowering the Felder S308 Power Feeder on a Felder Hammer C3 31 Comfort Combination machine
Longboard Straight Line Rips on Felder C3 31 Hammer
Просмотров 23 тыс.7 лет назад
How I put strait line rips on boards longer that the sliding table length on the Felder C3 31 Comfort Hammer combination machine to prepare lumber for ripping face frame stock
Felder S308 Changing Gears Transmission Speed
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.7 лет назад
Instructions on changing the transmission gears on the Felder S308 Feeder
3:15 wrong dude. So wrong.
Are you still satisfied with your felder power feeder, I’m about to purchase but before I do, I’d like to know how yours performs. Do the wheels still grab the material without slipping? Anything you can tell me about the feeder would be appreciated >
Gaslift option
can you show a picture of how you attached the power feeder ( I have the same jointer/planer ......thanks
The safety fence is a disaster, scrap it.
Your sliding table should be locked, and the feeder lowered a mm or two. When timber is fed in be at the outfeed and assist if necessary.
one of the reasons the switch is in the front is because european sliders were /are designed around the standard sizes of plywood , osb etc which are about 2 meters long ( 6 ft. ) and less than three feet wide . There may be other reasons as well, but it's definitely NOT a design flaw .
Even a 6 foot panel will make you crawl under the plywood to turn machine on when ripping long ways. If I had another person to help place the board on the saw then could turn on and then load. Since I load by myself don't like loading with saw on. They could have put another switch on the planer side
You set up simply by 5mm in height less the thickness height and set parallel to the rip fence then swivel the feeder about 5 degrees towards the outward feed of the rollers at the 5 mitute position of a clock looking down from above . This is so it keeps the ripping pressure against the rip fence.,and have the rip fence past the last roller of the auto feeder. This also applies to the spindle moulder ,Always keep wheels about 12mm away from the saw bade and same with shaper..CHECK ALL LOCK HANDLES tight i always do a dry run " lowering the blade of saw or shaper head. Then pass timber throgh if under Auto feed power, all behaves and tight .then bring the saw up to desired hight.same when auto feeding the shaper, WIth all parts turned OFF check spindle /SHAPER CUTTERS DONT HIT THE WHEELS IF YOU HAVE OVERHEAD PROFILE CUTTERS you may remove the middle wheel and repeat the above checks. Thi advice is only a guide not absoloute text book ,but check with other users or trained woodmachinists.
Very hard to hear the video and a bit long winded sorry to say
You keep grabbing the tail end of your stock at the back of the blade your gonna end up minus some fingers…
Are you talking about when he grabs the stock behind the anti kickback plate? Nothing wrong with that. He’s working perfectly safely here. I have no idea why people feel obliged to whinge about people’s techniques on these video comments… 😕 I would get seriously annoyed if I were the uploader.
I like your panel cart. It’s a great idea. I picked a different one up but I’ve decided to take it back. I bought a crazy horse dolly and that’s awesome. Thanks for posting.
It’s important to know that although this will work to make the piece smooth, it won’t take our twist or flatten a cupped board. Jointers and power feeders aren’t good buddies. They really shouldn’t be used together to flatten. The material would have to be very thick and resist bending with pressure from feeder. But cool video to show what you can do with feeders.
You shouldn’t have these types of issues on a saw that is in that price group. I was considering buying a felder but have gone off the idea. There are far too many complaints about customer service and quality issues here in Europe.
I did it with Woodglut.
I think there are alternative power on and off available as an option. Maybe not for your model, but it is work asking about. Understand the Hammer line is the economy units of the multi saws. The 741 series may include things that the Hammers do not have. I agree with you that the saw in it's current form is unusable.
"The saw in its current form is unusuable " lol and yet he was able to make the cut . that hardly qualifies as un useable
FELDER said I would have to do myself. They said other customers have done this
You need to put the feeder on the outfeed side of the joiner
Have the same jig for my c3-31 and ran a whole skid of black ash ... saved me a lot of time on the edge jointer. Mine is 9 feet long to accommodate rough 8ft + lumber. Another time saver is an electronic power feeder for face jointing. Those two steps in squaring lumber save me an enormous amount of time, and wood... and more enjoyable. Thanx for sharing.
good video! what hp is that feeder?
I also have a just a small worshop and i do waste more time on the pushing stuff around then actually working. For such pannels i reverted to a track saw, easier to handle and overall is faster. Yes you do have to measure, mark, adjust but still faster.
Same here....track saw just makes more sense in small work shop like this. But I'm in the same situation...I move three things out of the way to do one thing. Then the three things I just moved are on the next table I need to use...and so on. Frustrating. I spend a lot of time trying to rearrange my shop.
Just a suggestion, when attempting to drill through the 8' 1x 8", try placing the drill location on a flat surface to prevent the plank from flexing as you drill. It was painful watching you try to use that Forster bit at the end of the plank.
Why did you opt for the Felder 308 vs the Hammer H32 feeder ?
I've got the same issue with the fence kept in vertical. The solution is a strong Magnet to be placed beside the fence. With that, the guide will be fixed and steady!! Look at the following, as an example: www.amazon.it/gp/product/B000VH8040/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Very useful..!!! thank you...
Hi. Super tip to stop the rip fence flexing. A little common sense goes a long way. Tony
Hi. Great idea making the long auxiliary sliding table incorporating the machined table slot as a guide. Just found your channel you have a nice size workshop and some well built wood machines. Looks like you perform some interesting operations. Just sub'd. Tony
Well done great suggestions and help I am an owner of the hammer c331 too and just started getting my new workshop set up. So happy to find your site. Stay safe from Australia
Thanks.. Have fun and be safe!
Well done.can you give me dimensions you did for that table please or send a photo of the back. Thank you from Australia
I just posed a video on making a new slider. it is 11 1/2 inch by 9 foot 10 inches long.
I have a the same combination table saw so it’s lovely to follow you. As a women wood worker it’s hard to join wood working clubs lol
How would you cut it the 8 foot length ? As the table doesn't quite do 8 feet.
You can do it using the fence like any other table saw with out using the sliding table and locking it in place so it does not move..
I have a Hammer C3 31 and a N4400. Both are GREAT machines. Veeeery precise, very accurate, very powerful and because of that, very usefull. I got the silent power version for the combinated machine and, no neighbor can say a word about noise.
The silent power for the planer head is quieter for sure. Plus the finish on the wood is great and easy to sand.
Why don't you cut off the waste side of the plywood on the sliding table. That way there is more wood on it and it is easier to handle. I have the same saw and have cut lots of plywood. And yes the ON button should be somewhere else.
Trying to understand what you are saying. The reason I did it this way is so I could use the stop on the fence to repeat the width cuts without measuring. Think I see what you are saying and sliding the plywood would be easier. Will have to try that..
That was torture .... and with such a large heavy falloff those long straight rollers could def track the piece away from the fence
very helpful thanks
How accurate is this Hammer saw? I would like to know how square the pieces come out after cutting them?
As with any saw you have to make sure the alignment is tuned up. I got lucky, from the factory the 90 and 45 degree settings were dead on when checking against my Woodpecker and machining square.
U can adjust and tune everthing everywhere on this maschine.
Look, I appreciate this video as I’m on the fence about the ct-va. But your audio sounds as if you recorded it IN a cyclone.
As a semi retired joiner/cabinetmaker from New Zealand who has a Casadei KS 30 dimension saw a couple of tips.. 1..get some 6mm perspex and make a flip stop from it and tap and bolt on to the blade side of the stop.Reset scale on fence to allow for perspex and it's all good. When doing cuts this avoids slippage on the fence as 1st position is against aluminum stop and 2nd position is against perspex stop which is the measurement required. 2.. get your friendly electrician to wire in a second on/off switch in an easily accessible position and 3.. get him to connect the extractor to this switch so when you turn on the saw the extractor comes on/off as required. It's not that hard and it's been on my saw for 12 years.
Hi, thank you for your video! I've been using the same combination for two years with great results. I would recommend to change the position of your feeder with the first feeding roll starting right BEHIND the edge of your outfeed table. Your setup might tend to reproduce any warp or crook in your board because the main pressure is on your infeed table, especially when flattening shorter boards.
I hope you did what Martin said you old fool 😁
I don’t have the flip mount that you have but I reckon that it would be much easier to flip (up and down) if you first lowered the feeder so the weight is as close as you can get it to the pivot point. Alternatively, the way I move my feeder around my shop is to drop the feed head off on the table top and move it in two pieces. So, if you could store the feed head in a separate location and keep the arm mounted to the pivot plate, it would also be much easier.
What is the total table stroke on that slider? Thx
7 feet
hello, is the bandsaw a felder 510 or 610 ? best regards from bavaria bernhard
Mine is a 510. I wanted the minimum size blade wheel of 500mm to reduce blade cracks. The 510 has a 500MM wheel and the 610 has a 600MM wheel. If you are looking at buying a Felder Bandsaw send me an email and I can put you in touch with one of the engineers that helped design the 510.
Thank you
I'm thinking of getting a C3 31 but not sure which configuration. My shop 24x32. Wondering, are you comfortable cutting 4x8 panels lengthwise on the comfort? If you had the space, would you get the perform model over the comfort?
I wouldn't say it is comfortable if you have to rip a 4x8 sheet long ways. The slider on the C3 31 has a 7 foot limit so you have to push the last foot through. I do not cut full length 8 ft that often and usually cut the panels on the 4ft side first. If you cut a lot of panels the full 7+ foot then and have the space I would get the bigger machine. I could move things around in my 18ftx20ft building to make the larger machine work. Suggest you lay out the dimensions of the 2 machines horizontally and vertically on your shop floor first.
@@customallwooddesign2905 Thx for all replies. Got the comfort c3-31 several months ago and I'm very satisfied. I'm getting used to the shortcomings of the 78" slider but this is much better (spacewise) than all separate machines I had before in 24x32 shop. Now I have a lot of space for assembly tables, 18ìn bandsaw and lathe by the window. Had to modify cutting schedule with melamine panels... Don't know why they limit ripping capacity at 23+in, I get 24+in myself. Very straight and true out of the crate.
Tks guy look at this machine myself but not sure of the cost
Nice shop. What is the name of the panel handling gizmo that you use to hold and flip 4x8 panels in your video?
Bora Portamate - Panel Carrier PM-1800
This problem of the main blade running into the scoring blade (using a 12" (315 mm) blade) is a POOR design for this machine. And the reason I did not buy this saw. It can be very dangerous if the blade hits the scoring blade. it HAS happened sadly. Yes, I know that Felder has sold kadzillion of these saws, but it is still poor design to have to fight this malady. The reason for this is: MOST woodworkers do not know how awesome it is to use a "scoring blade". Thus: MOST never use it; or even buy it in the first place. That is sad indeed. If they ever got used to one, they would NEVER be without it. For it insures 100% free and clean cutting on the bottom of the stock on all materials. I know of NO blade that does not cause some bottom "blow out" of the wood fibers regardless of their ads. Yes, they can make it better, but it is NEVER like when using a scoring blade. For with the SB it creates a perfect cut on the bottom the same, as on top. The only problem with a SB is the adjustment; so to make the width, height and location of the SB in perfect alignment with the main blade. This must be done whenever you use a different width main blade. Note: The best way to cut clean; without a SB, is to lower the main blade; so it only cuts no higher than 1/8" while running the stock from back to front (scoring the bottom of the stock). There is little to no danger doing this; especially on a sliding table saw. Then raise the main blade and cut through the stock normally. NO adjustment is needed; as to width and location of the score; for it is automatic no matter what main blade you use.
Can you remove the scoring blade and use a 315mm blade?
Yes, but not sure if that is a good idea
The 250MM Blade will clear the scoring blade when raised high. The 315MM shown in the video will not
Yes! Under NO circumstances should there EVER be a scoring blade on the shaft IF you are using a 315 MM blade. This is horribly dangerous. The gentleman in the video showed this. NEVER do it. ONLY use the 250 MM blade when installing the scoring blade.
Thanks for the informative video. Well done. Do you use your feeder for the jointer?
Yes I do and it works great especially with the spiral head. I have made a video using it to dimension hard maple lumber for making the drawers. I will be posting in the future.
That's great . I will look forward to seeing it. Love the channel.
Please can you provide sub-titles as your diction is really bad.
How big is your shop there? The camera looks like a wide angled camera and so judjing it's size is a bit difficult. I'm asking as I will soon be purchasing the same machine and want to get a view on how much space it actually takes up. My shop is about 16 feet x 16 feet (ish)
My shop is 18 x 21 feet , should have built it 21 x 21
@LeeSteventon - I've only just seen this video and your comment (so sorry if this is too late) but I have the exact same machine which I use in my garage, which is about 17 x 17 feet, it's tight but you can definitely make it work. I do find myself taking the outrigger on and off when I'm not using the machine, but that's a small price to pay and it always goes back square. As @Custom All Wood Design says, the placing of the only "On" switch can be a pain with full sized sheets, but once they are down to a more manageable size it's not really an issue.
CAWD in reply to your email to me about Felder and their response timing and general position on parts and purchases: all I can say is be ready for anything depending on which machine ( older tooling and knives) you buy and how badly you will need that machine to continue your work. I have owned a number of foreign cars and van and this comment about parts and service holds true for them also. Product knowledge is not the high point of the US stateside workers by any means. I purchased an Oneida cyclone that fits my Festool CT when I bought the 7.5hp Oneida cyclone (older model with plenum) and have been very happy with the performance and ease of the CT with the quick remove little cyclone. I use it with hand saws and sander and the Felder FD250 boring machine with great results. One experience that was my fault involved not keeping an eye on the meter vac gauge of the 7.5hp cyclone and I filled the 55 gal drum in 3 hours and also plugged the two 5' cyclone filters and it required 12 vac bags to clean up my mess!! If I had not had the small Oneida cyclone (translucent model-not the later black grounded wire cyclone) it would have been $$ to clean the mess. One can push and jockey steer the the CT by pushing on the Oneida mini cyclone; looks like this is not possible with your Festool cyclone. The Oneida is about $100 less and there are plastic garbage bags with draw strings at Walmart. I use the CT for the saw dust from all machines including the band saw interior. Bosch, which was my fav for years, has a larger portable vac. The CT (wet or dry) with 50MM accessories pack is very good for dust and wood chunks. The Festool cyclone design may not permit the large chunk pieces pickup. My basement sump switch was obstructed and I had 4-5" of basement water. The CT with wet filters and the 50MM vac head made the job easy. Good luck
This is very helpful, thank you. Your other videos are great also!
To make this even easier: AFTER you raise the tables, loosen lightly, the 4 screws holding the black cover, that is over the cutter spindle. Then when turning the spindle; use the existing large nut on the spindle; instead of trying to turn the cutter head by hand.
What kind of clamps are those?
microjig matchfit dovetail clamps