I have the c41 perform and am very happy with it Spent 40 years in residential home building.You did a great job in your review.Hope you’re having as much fun as I am
Excellent review and update on this machine. You clearly understand industrial machines and how this one stacks up compared to other options out there-to include production setups. You have a great channel and look forward to more content from you.
Nice machine and informative video. I went for the Felder 531 professional which is basically the same machine but with the x-roll sliding table. I have the 2.5m (just over 8 feet) table which I actually find a bit long to be honest. Re the blades, I had other blades without the holes and just used a Felder blade and marked and drilled out matching holes in my other couple of blades. Re the guard, I’d recommend upgrading to the folding guard (if it’s available for the Hammer machine). It will still be different than the traditional American guard you’re used to, but it folds down vertically so it isn’t really sticking out very much so doesn’t get in the way.
J/P table is actually specially milled like that. it has tiny grooves which according to Hammer is suppose to reduce friction but in practice people complain about it.
Interesting, thanks for confirming that. Maybe in a lab that’s true, but I feel like it does the opposite. I wax it and have tried Slipit as well, it still seems like there is a lot of drag on the material.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker yep that’s the complaint. Carbon method is developing a product for this issue. Bents woodworking is beta testing it and it seems that applying multiple layers of it helps
Nice machine, nice review, thanks for making this video I have tha B3 saw/shaper which does have the tilting spindle shaper and an A3 jointer planer. I bought the 30mm spindle so I can share tooling with the saw, and a 1 1/4” spindle for my legacy tooling.
I have enjoyed your install and intro videos. I have a 29" door opening. My first Felder rep was completely unaware of the separation option. Sooo,,, I am considering this as a space saver and the way to get a capable thickness planer into the shop. "Space has no price equivalent". I have a 12.5' table top planer, a good 6' classic jointer, that live in a closet until needed and anything big gets taken to the friends with 20" helical planers shops. This is an increasing occurence. One friend has the Hammer 16" and it is the reason for wanting to change the system. I have concerns about what I'm giving up with the table saw component and would appreciate a comment or three. I'm running a 2hp Steel City 10' saw.( a Delta unisaw "copy"with improvements), with granite top, 53" outboard extension and a 2hp router table insert. I've got kreg feather boards and mitre fence, home bilt cross cut sled, 45 degree and variable angle sled , finger jointing jig, etc , like many other folks, hanging on the wall. Everything works with the dual 3/4' slots. They are accurate, quick and reproducible cuts, once you actually construct the jigs. The granite top doesn't play with magnets well but that has never been a limit and 20 years of rust control has been avoided. All the semi big and big, heavy stuff is worked to the right side on the table extension. Sooo, due to size constraints. I might not be able to put the Comfort slider outrigger on, and stay with the Standard model. Can this unit replace those common jigs? Is there something to replace the feather boards? Can you work big heavy pieces to the right, over the jointer surface by removing the fence and guard? Is this unit fun when working with small pieces for boxes, etc? And,,, Does this very expensive moulding head actually work the 1/2' router bits well, at 10,000 rpm, or tear things? Can you do the same things as my router insert on the table extension? Thank you for any considered opinion and reply.
Robert - I’ll do my best to help, and feel free to ask more questions or follow up if I miss something. In general, with the table saw, try to fit the larger model if it works for you. You will be surprised at how much the larger capacity helps…for example, the ability to straight line rip a 7’ foot board is very nice, even if you never need the larger crosscut capacity. I’m not familiar with the Kreg featherboards, but they appear to be similar to a set I bought on Amazon that fit into the T slot on the sliding table. They definitely come in handy. You wouldn’t need your crosscut or angle sled anymore since that capability is inherent in the machine. As far as box joints, you may be able to modify your jig to work with the T slot on the sliding table, but of course that would depend. I would recommend you look at what dado tooling is out there for the Hammer…it’s certainly not as wide an assortment as for a Unisaw type saw. Personally, I rarely use dado tooling, so it’s not an issue, but if you use dado tooling a lot, you may want to consider that. I should also point out that the Hammer is a right-tilt saw, in case yours is a left tilt. I worked professionally in a shop that had both left and right tilt saws, which was hugely helpful. Just something to consider. As far as working small pieces, use a zero clearance insert and a 10” blade, and there shouldn’t be much difference. I will say I am careful about small pieces with the machine when there is a 12” blade and a non-zero clearance insert. With regard to the router table versus shaper with router collet, off the top of my head, I can’t think of any reason why you can’t do everything with this that you would with your insert…and probably better and easier. I’m sure someone on the internet can tell me why I’m wrong. True, you may not be able to get the high RPM’s, but you can slow down your feed rate to compensate. I think you’ll find that the incredible stability of a shaper running a tiny (relatively) piece of tooling with a highly overpowered motor on a very stable platform and a solid fence will more than compensate for any advantage a higher RPM would provide. Possibly it may not be as flexible in terms of screwing or clamping additional fences or such, but the provided fence and guides are pretty useful. Also, having the sliding table with the shaper head opens up other possibilities that most router tables can’t replicate. I know I use it when I am doing cope and stick operations. One other minor point, there is no 1/4” collet for the shaper, in case you use any 1/4” shank bits. Hope this helps!
Excellent and helpful video. Thank you. Did lots of research and favor the same model. I can't find the footprint of the C3 41 Comfort online, and the rep hasn't been that helpful. Could you share the overall dimensions, including the outrigger table?
I was able to get them to send me a PDF that is basically the dimensioned engineering drawings. It should have everything you need. Email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com and I’ll send it to you.
Yes, you can absolutely use the sliding table for the shaper as well. I have done it when coping the ends of rails. The only issue I had was that I had to adjust the shaper fence to be square to the sliding table, but that was a one time adjustment. Have a sliding table for the shaper is very handy for certain operations.
Hi, first thanks foir this video. I bought a c 31 performance but the saw cannot be lifted completely, in the last part become very hard to lift, i suppose a cleaning is required but... how access to the infinite screw? it s totally unaccessible.. have u ever had this problem? thanks
Hi, I have to say that I haven’t had that problem, but taking a look at mine, I agree that the most likely thing is to clean the screw that raises the blade assembly. It also possible that an offcut may have somehow gotten caught in there. It’s certainly not easy to access that area, although I’m sure you already figured out that beveling the saw all the way to 45 degrees does give you a little bit of access. With that said, I have another video from when I had to assemble my saw, and at about 10:50 in that video, you will see that I have the main electrical box pulled out of the machine, which would give you much better access to that area. It’s not that much work to get the electrical box in and out of the saw, and my video shows it, so maybe that will help you. Of course disconnect the power first! And beware of any residual power in the various capacitors. The link to the video is here: Hammer C3 41C Comfort Unpacking, Movement, and Assembly ruclips.net/video/iS0Mg5u3xro/видео.html
@@theoccasionalwoodworker Many thanks for your answer, yesterday i did exactly this, taking electrical box out.. the condition of screw was surprising good.. i really don t understand what s the problem, i cleaned all up but in the last inch the screw became very very hard (need two hands to lift the saw).. i will studi further. If i undrstrand why this happen i ll let u know. Thanks for help
Yes, please let me know what you find out. Is there any chance the riving knife is binding on something as you’re trying to lift the blade that final inch? I can’t think of too many likely problems other than an offcut being wedged somewhere or the riving knife somehow binding.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker I have no knife on because i have done some "blind" cut, to the problem is something else. I also think about some piece of wood or resin.. the previous owner was use to work high amount of pine and the machine was pretty dirty when came to me. In the next days i ll clean better and let u know. like my father say: complex problems often have a simple solution, i think this is the case.
It’s a Felder part, made for the Felder table saws. I don’t have the part number handy, but I can get it. I believe it’s the 1200mm fence. I have another video that’s shows the modifications I had to make to accept that longer fence. It was a bit of a pain, but I’m much happier with the longer and taller fence.
The machine was about $14k, but that was two and half years ago, and with several accessories and the charge to split the machine into two parts for installation.
Yes, I agree that Martin makes excellent equipment, I’ve used it before professionally. And in my next life as a real woodworker or a rich dilettante who can afford to buy expensive woodworking machinery for a hobby, I assure you, I’ll have a giant radiant heated shop full of Martin machinery.
I have the c41 perform and am very happy with it Spent 40 years in residential home building.You did a great job in your review.Hope you’re having as much fun as I am
Thank you!
Excellent review and update on this machine. You clearly understand industrial machines and how this one stacks up compared to other options out there-to include production setups. You have a great channel and look forward to more content from you.
Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.
That finish cuts down on friction. Thanks for the review. I am looking to downsize my shop and this is a strong candidate.
Let me know if there are any questions you have, I’ll try to help
Nice machine and informative video. I went for the Felder 531 professional which is basically the same machine but with the x-roll sliding table. I have the 2.5m (just over 8 feet) table which I actually find a bit long to be honest.
Re the blades, I had other blades without the holes and just used a Felder blade and marked and drilled out matching holes in my other couple of blades.
Re the guard, I’d recommend upgrading to the folding guard (if it’s available for the Hammer machine). It will still be different than the traditional American guard you’re used to, but it folds down vertically so it isn’t really sticking out very much so doesn’t get in the way.
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll look at the Felder guard and see if it can fit the Hammer machine.
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing. All that matters is if you are happy with it.
Thanks! I agree, everyone has different expectations and needs for machinery. What works for one person may not for another.
J/P table is actually specially milled like that. it has tiny grooves which according to Hammer is suppose to reduce friction but in practice people complain about it.
Interesting, thanks for confirming that. Maybe in a lab that’s true, but I feel like it does the opposite. I wax it and have tried Slipit as well, it still seems like there is a lot of drag on the material.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker yep that’s the complaint. Carbon method is developing a product for this issue. Bents woodworking is beta testing it and it seems that applying multiple layers of it helps
@@AlexK07010good to know, and thanks!
Nice machine, nice review, thanks for making this video
I have tha B3 saw/shaper which does have the tilting spindle shaper and an A3 jointer planer.
I bought the 30mm spindle so I can share tooling with the saw, and a 1 1/4” spindle for my legacy tooling.
Thanks!
I have enjoyed your install and intro videos. I have a 29" door opening. My first Felder rep was completely unaware of the separation option. Sooo,,, I am considering this as a space saver and the way to get a capable thickness planer into the shop. "Space has no price equivalent". I have a 12.5' table top planer, a good 6' classic jointer, that live in a closet until needed and anything big gets taken to the friends with 20" helical planers shops. This is an increasing occurence. One friend has the Hammer 16" and it is the reason for wanting to change the system. I have concerns about what I'm giving up with the table saw component and would appreciate a comment or three. I'm running a 2hp Steel City 10' saw.( a Delta unisaw "copy"with improvements), with granite top, 53" outboard extension and a 2hp router table insert. I've got kreg feather boards and mitre fence, home bilt cross cut sled, 45 degree and variable angle sled , finger jointing jig, etc , like many other folks, hanging on the wall. Everything works with the dual 3/4' slots. They are accurate, quick and reproducible cuts, once you actually construct the jigs. The granite top doesn't play with magnets well but that has never been a limit and 20 years of rust control has been avoided. All the semi big and big, heavy stuff is worked to the right side on the table extension. Sooo, due to size constraints. I might not be able to put the Comfort slider outrigger on, and stay with the Standard model. Can this unit replace those common jigs? Is there something to replace the feather boards? Can you work big heavy pieces to the right, over the jointer surface by removing the fence and guard? Is this unit fun when working with small pieces for boxes, etc? And,,, Does this very expensive moulding head actually work the 1/2' router bits well, at 10,000 rpm, or tear things? Can you do the same things as my router insert on the table extension? Thank you for any considered opinion and reply.
Robert - I’ll do my best to help, and feel free to ask more questions or follow up if I miss something. In general, with the table saw, try to fit the larger model if it works for you. You will be surprised at how much the larger capacity helps…for example, the ability to straight line rip a 7’ foot board is very nice, even if you never need the larger crosscut capacity. I’m not familiar with the Kreg featherboards, but they appear to be similar to a set I bought on Amazon that fit into the T slot on the sliding table. They definitely come in handy. You wouldn’t need your crosscut or angle sled anymore since that capability is inherent in the machine. As far as box joints, you may be able to modify your jig to work with the T slot on the sliding table, but of course that would depend. I would recommend you look at what dado tooling is out there for the Hammer…it’s certainly not as wide an assortment as for a Unisaw type saw. Personally, I rarely use dado tooling, so it’s not an issue, but if you use dado tooling a lot, you may want to consider that. I should also point out that the Hammer is a right-tilt saw, in case yours is a left tilt. I worked professionally in a shop that had both left and right tilt saws, which was hugely helpful. Just something to consider. As far as working small pieces, use a zero clearance insert and a 10” blade, and there shouldn’t be much difference. I will say I am careful about small pieces with the machine when there is a 12” blade and a non-zero clearance insert. With regard to the router table versus shaper with router collet, off the top of my head, I can’t think of any reason why you can’t do everything with this that you would with your insert…and probably better and easier. I’m sure someone on the internet can tell me why I’m wrong. True, you may not be able to get the high RPM’s, but you can slow down your feed rate to compensate. I think you’ll find that the incredible stability of a shaper running a tiny (relatively) piece of tooling with a highly overpowered motor on a very stable platform and a solid fence will more than compensate for any advantage a higher RPM would provide. Possibly it may not be as flexible in terms of screwing or clamping additional fences or such, but the provided fence and guides are pretty useful. Also, having the sliding table with the shaper head opens up other possibilities that most router tables can’t replicate. I know I use it when I am doing cope and stick operations. One other minor point, there is no 1/4” collet for the shaper, in case you use any 1/4” shank bits. Hope this helps!
Excellent and helpful video. Thank you. Did lots of research and favor the same model. I can't find the footprint of the C3 41 Comfort online, and the rep hasn't been that helpful. Could you share the overall dimensions, including the outrigger table?
I was able to get them to send me a PDF that is basically the dimensioned engineering drawings. It should have everything you need. Email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com and I’ll send it to you.
Thanks for the review. Is it possible to use the table saw sled also as a sled to the shaper?
Yes, you can absolutely use the sliding table for the shaper as well. I have done it when coping the ends of rails. The only issue I had was that I had to adjust the shaper fence to be square to the sliding table, but that was a one time adjustment. Have a sliding table for the shaper is very handy for certain operations.
I have a Hammer c3 31 , it is possible to adjust the knife so it just under the cutting blade
By moving the riving knife back? I’m curious. With a 310mm blade there isn’t much room to drop down the riving knife.
I have done that on my c3@@theoccasionalwoodworker
Hi, first thanks foir this video. I bought a c 31 performance but the saw cannot be lifted completely, in the last part become very hard to lift, i suppose a cleaning is required but... how access to the infinite screw? it s totally unaccessible.. have u ever had this problem? thanks
Hi, I have to say that I haven’t had that problem, but taking a look at mine, I agree that the most likely thing is to clean the screw that raises the blade assembly. It also possible that an offcut may have somehow gotten caught in there. It’s certainly not easy to access that area, although I’m sure you already figured out that beveling the saw all the way to 45 degrees does give you a little bit of access. With that said, I have another video from when I had to assemble my saw, and at about 10:50 in that video, you will see that I have the main electrical box pulled out of the machine, which would give you much better access to that area. It’s not that much work to get the electrical box in and out of the saw, and my video shows it, so maybe that will help you. Of course disconnect the power first! And beware of any residual power in the various capacitors. The link to the video is here:
Hammer C3 41C Comfort Unpacking, Movement, and Assembly
ruclips.net/video/iS0Mg5u3xro/видео.html
@@theoccasionalwoodworker Many thanks for your answer, yesterday i did exactly this, taking electrical box out.. the condition of screw was surprising good.. i really don t understand what s the problem, i cleaned all up but in the last inch the screw became very very hard (need two hands to lift the saw).. i will studi further. If i undrstrand why this happen i ll let u know. Thanks for help
Yes, please let me know what you find out. Is there any chance the riving knife is binding on something as you’re trying to lift the blade that final inch? I can’t think of too many likely problems other than an offcut being wedged somewhere or the riving knife somehow binding.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker I have no knife on because i have done some "blind" cut, to the problem is something else. I also think about some piece of wood or resin.. the previous owner was use to work high amount of pine and the machine was pretty dirty when came to me. In the next days i ll clean better and let u know. like my father say: complex problems often have a simple solution, i think this is the case.
Ridge Carbide will bore for Felder/Hammer blades and is arguably a better blade than what Felder offers.
Thanks for sharing that information! I’ll take a look at their blades.
The blade sharpening service we use bores the holes no problem,it seemed like a regular request when I asked about it.
Where did you source the longer fence?
It’s a Felder part, made for the Felder table saws. I don’t have the part number handy, but I can get it. I believe it’s the 1200mm fence. I have another video that’s shows the modifications I had to make to accept that longer fence. It was a bit of a pain, but I’m much happier with the longer and taller fence.
Can I ask how much did U pay for the machine pls??
I can imagine Felder ain’t cheep. Or just give rough price.. 🙏
The machine was about $14k, but that was two and half years ago, and with several accessories and the charge to split the machine into two parts for installation.
ONLY MARTIN THE REST IS A DUST
Yes, I agree that Martin makes excellent equipment, I’ve used it before professionally. And in my next life as a real woodworker or a rich dilettante who can afford to buy expensive woodworking machinery for a hobby, I assure you, I’ll have a giant radiant heated shop full of Martin machinery.