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That’s great! Good luck with your project! I am not done with mine, and I still have a long way to go…but I am starting to install some of the woodwork. With luck, it will be mostly complete next year some time. There are days it seems like it will never be done, but it’s been a fun experience, although not always easy LOL.

I do plan to eventually put more videos together into longer videos…are you looking for longer time-lapse videos? Or for videos that go into more detail in the building process?

@ a mix of both. I watch a lot of Jesse muller and andrew camarata on youtube and they do a mix of timelapse with in-depth commentary.

Cool, I appreciate the suggestion. I’ll look at what I have and come up with some longer videos. It’s helpful to know what people are interested in.

That’s a surprisingly tough question to answer. There are definitely pros and cons to a bigger versus smaller stock feeder, and the H32 is the smaller cousin to the S308. Pro side to smaller is it’s certainly easier to move around if you’re going to be mounting and dismounting it a lot or otherwise having to move it. I can also think of some specific cases where the narrower feeder wheels may come in handy. But…with those two exceptions, I think bigger is generally better with stock feeders, especially relating to how much material you may plan to take off in one bite. A bigger stock feeder will allow you to safely handle a bigger cut without losing traction and having a kickback or such. I can tell you anecdotally that I was climb cutting a 1/4” tongue on 3/4” pine last week, and even then, the S308 was slipping slightly. Next time I will adjust it down to put more pressure on the stock. If you were doing mostly profiling on 3/4” material, I think smaller is fine. For windows and doors with presumably 1-3/4” material or so, I think you’ll have better results with the S308. But it could really go either way, and I would probably have gotten the H32 if it had been in stock. In retrospect, I’m glad I got the S308 and the price differential is not that great. One additional note, I’m actually going to Felder this week to take a closer look at the swing away mount that I mention in the video. If I determine it can fit, I’m probably going to get it.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker Thanks for the detailed reply.

I was very happy with the EZ Tubes. I meant to do a video review and never got around to it. But I’ll hit the highlights. The first, in retrospect, is that trying to pour concrete in that location would have been brutal. For one thing, there is no running water, so just getting water to mix 100+ bags of concrete would have been miserable. And trying to mix and pour on that hillside would have been awful. It’s also inaccessible by mixer truck and pumping probably wouldn’t have worked either, not to mention the cost. The EZ Tubes were WAY easier for me to get into place and manhandle myself, and also much faster than forming and pouring would have been. I basically dug the foundation and set the piers in two days. I do wish I had taken more time to put some gravel in the holes and level it before I started placing the bases, but I was hot and trying to get it done, so I didn’t take as much time there as I should have. They also do limit your ability somewhat to correct any misalignment in the foundation because the threaded rod is where it is, unlike pouring where you could shift it a couple inches if you needed to. But altogether, it was well worth the cost. One warning, if you are in a remote location, you may have to reach out to your trucking company early on to make sure they understand the delivery location. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker Fantastic - thank you so much! I haven't found many people who have used them for small cabins, so I really appreciate the information. Good tips on the gravel, limited adjustability, delivery, etc. Considering it all, these are definitely more appealing that sono-tubes. Our location looks far easier to build on than yours! Cheers

Great minds think alike! I did not want to pour piers and bend rebar and knew the margin or error would be far less with a poured solution. Im doing the same for a shipping container home. ​using 6 per 40' container. By the way these are in sale now on the HD site at least in my area. Keep up the great work! @@theoccasionalwoodworker

@@totallylegityoutubeperson4170 thanks! And good luck with your project! I might do some containers at the top of the property, but there’s no way…well, no practical way to get them down the hill. I could sling load them in but I don’t have a CH-47 that I can use for personal favors 🤣

@@theoccasionalwoodworker hey if you ever get a hold if one of those choppers let me know! 🤣

Unfortunately, I’m not familiar with the Delta Pro 3’s. Good luck, hope you are able to figure it out so you can make sure they will be ready when you need them!

Well, I happened to leave my splitting maul at home 🤷🏻‍♂️

Yes, I’d be interested to see pictures. It’s frustrating that I wasn’t able to get more information from Felder about how it mounts and interacts with the extension table. Thanks for the feedback, and I hope it works well for you! I’m going to be doing a climb-cutting shaping operation in a few weeks, so I’ll be re-installing my power feeder at some point. My email is lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com

Hi, I have to say that I haven’t had that problem, but taking a look at mine, I agree that the most likely thing is to clean the screw that raises the blade assembly. It also possible that an offcut may have somehow gotten caught in there. It’s certainly not easy to access that area, although I’m sure you already figured out that beveling the saw all the way to 45 degrees does give you a little bit of access. With that said, I have another video from when I had to assemble my saw, and at about 10:50 in that video, you will see that I have the main electrical box pulled out of the machine, which would give you much better access to that area. It’s not that much work to get the electrical box in and out of the saw, and my video shows it, so maybe that will help you. Of course disconnect the power first! And beware of any residual power in the various capacitors. The link to the video is here: Hammer C3 41C Comfort Unpacking, Movement, and Assembly ruclips.net/video/iS0Mg5u3xro/видео.html

@@theoccasionalwoodworker Many thanks for your answer, yesterday i did exactly this, taking electrical box out.. the condition of screw was surprising good.. i really don t understand what s the problem, i cleaned all up but in the last inch the screw became very very hard (need two hands to lift the saw).. i will studi further. If i undrstrand why this happen i ll let u know. Thanks for help

Yes, please let me know what you find out. Is there any chance the riving knife is binding on something as you’re trying to lift the blade that final inch? I can’t think of too many likely problems other than an offcut being wedged somewhere or the riving knife somehow binding.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker I have no knife on because i have done some "blind" cut, to the problem is something else. I also think about some piece of wood or resin.. the previous owner was use to work high amount of pine and the machine was pretty dirty when came to me. In the next days i ll clean better and let u know. like my father say: complex problems often have a simple solution, i think this is the case.

Good to know. Does it interfere with an outfeed table extension on the table saw? That was my concern. I have on of the Felder extension wings attached to the rail on the outfeed side.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker Hi, it doesn't interfere with the use of an extension table. I wouldn't attach a feeder to a jointer table, the feeder can transfer significant twisting loads to the jointer table. I do use my feeder with the table saw, rips are flawless, they look like they came off the jointer when you use a good ripping blade. Have fun, you have a nice machine.

Let me know if I can answer any questions you may have

I was scrolling through songs and saw this and was like “yeah that’s perfect”

Good luck with whatever method you decide to use. I just took mine in and out of my cabin yesterday, and the larger wheels definitely make it much easier.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Yes, you can absolutely use the sliding table for the shaper as well. I have done it when coping the ends of rails. The only issue I had was that I had to adjust the shaper fence to be square to the sliding table, but that was a one time adjustment. Have a sliding table for the shaper is very handy for certain operations.

Thanks!

Thank you! Yes, I designed it myself. Or maybe I should say I am still designing it as I build it 🤷🏻‍♂️ I have two videos, a short and a long one showing some of the design process.

By moving the riving knife back? I’m curious. With a 310mm blade there isn’t much room to drop down the riving knife.

I have done that on my c3@@theoccasionalwoodworker

Thank you!

@@theoccasionalwoodworker ruclips.net/user/shortsR7H1hHsR8D4?si=Zq3k-9poh6UJ8L38

So you want to sell this machine?

once i get the parts @@theoccasionalwoodworker

i also have a massive collection of great spindl heads and cutters@@theoccasionalwoodworker

where are you located?@@theoccasionalwoodworker

The machine was about $14k, but that was two and half years ago, and with several accessories and the charge to split the machine into two parts for installation.

Thank you!

Let me know if there are any questions you have, I’ll try to help

Thank you! 🙏🏻

@@theoccasionalwoodworker what part of the world is this?

⁠@@helenwatson706 Western Pennsylvania, in the US, in the Appalachian Mountains

Sorry, I just saw this…good videos! I’m going to go follow your page. Thanks!

@@theoccasionalwoodworker thank you. I haven’t got the chance to edit the next part because of this holiday season. Hopefully I can resume to my regular upload schedule in January.

Robert - I’ll do my best to help, and feel free to ask more questions or follow up if I miss something. In general, with the table saw, try to fit the larger model if it works for you. You will be surprised at how much the larger capacity helps…for example, the ability to straight line rip a 7’ foot board is very nice, even if you never need the larger crosscut capacity. I’m not familiar with the Kreg featherboards, but they appear to be similar to a set I bought on Amazon that fit into the T slot on the sliding table. They definitely come in handy. You wouldn’t need your crosscut or angle sled anymore since that capability is inherent in the machine. As far as box joints, you may be able to modify your jig to work with the T slot on the sliding table, but of course that would depend. I would recommend you look at what dado tooling is out there for the Hammer…it’s certainly not as wide an assortment as for a Unisaw type saw. Personally, I rarely use dado tooling, so it’s not an issue, but if you use dado tooling a lot, you may want to consider that. I should also point out that the Hammer is a right-tilt saw, in case yours is a left tilt. I worked professionally in a shop that had both left and right tilt saws, which was hugely helpful. Just something to consider. As far as working small pieces, use a zero clearance insert and a 10” blade, and there shouldn’t be much difference. I will say I am careful about small pieces with the machine when there is a 12” blade and a non-zero clearance insert. With regard to the router table versus shaper with router collet, off the top of my head, I can’t think of any reason why you can’t do everything with this that you would with your insert…and probably better and easier. I’m sure someone on the internet can tell me why I’m wrong. True, you may not be able to get the high RPM’s, but you can slow down your feed rate to compensate. I think you’ll find that the incredible stability of a shaper running a tiny (relatively) piece of tooling with a highly overpowered motor on a very stable platform and a solid fence will more than compensate for any advantage a higher RPM would provide. Possibly it may not be as flexible in terms of screwing or clamping additional fences or such, but the provided fence and guides are pretty useful. Also, having the sliding table with the shaper head opens up other possibilities that most router tables can’t replicate. I know I use it when I am doing cope and stick operations. One other minor point, there is no 1/4” collet for the shaper, in case you use any 1/4” shank bits. Hope this helps!

I agree. I think as long as people understand what the machines are capable of and what the limitations are, it’s a really good machine that can do excellent work in a relatively small space.

I was able to get them to send me a PDF that is basically the dimensioned engineering drawings. It should have everything you need. Email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com and I’ll send it to you.

Thanks for the feedback! I’ll look at the Felder guard and see if it can fit the Hammer machine.

Wow, I didn’t realize that there was actually something official showing the rip fence not continuing past the blade. That’s fascinating, since even the European machines I have used previously had longer rip fences. And although maybe it is just one of those differences between European and American techniques, it seems crazy to me. But hey, whatever works 🤷🏻‍♂️

Yes, I agree that Martin makes excellent equipment, I’ve used it before professionally. And in my next life as a real woodworker or a rich dilettante who can afford to buy expensive woodworking machinery for a hobby, I assure you, I’ll have a giant radiant heated shop full of Martin machinery.

The floors are insulated. R-30 batts that you can see when I’m laying the subfloor. Luckily for me, the only person that has to deal with all my mistakes is me, since it’s my cabin 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@theoccasionalwoodworker ahh Didn’t notice the Insulation kinda blended in … and Very true of can’t argue that logic.

The concrete piers are a product called EZ Tube, which is a precast modular footing and pier, similar to using a Sonotube and pouring concrete. On top of those are pressure treated 6x6 posts, connected to both the piers and the floor framing with Simpson metal framing connectors. It’s the first time I’ve used EZ Tubes, but it saved me an enormous amount of time and trouble versus trying to pour concrete. More expensive, but worth it in this application.

Thanks!

Subbed back…cool stuff you’re doing

It’s a Felder part, made for the Felder table saws. I don’t have the part number handy, but I can get it. I believe it’s the 1200mm fence. I have another video that’s shows the modifications I had to make to accept that longer fence. It was a bit of a pain, but I’m much happier with the longer and taller fence.

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll look into it.

The stock feeder worked very well for the shaper operation that I was preparing for in the video. It has plenty of power, and the slow speed feed rate was perfect for the operation I was doing. My improvised mount worked well. Of course I would prefer not to have spent that much money on a stock feeder, but I feel like it’s a good value for the price, compared to what some other manufacturers offer. And you can’t put a price on keeping all your fingers where they belong 🤷🏻‍♂️

I paid about $14k for the C3 41 Comfort model, and then some of the accessories were purchased additionally to that price. Keep in mind, I made the order two years ago, and I’m sure prices have gone up since then. Like a car, you really have to see what options and accessories are being offered to make a direct price comparison.

Thanks! I agree, everyone has different expectations and needs for machinery. What works for one person may not for another.

Interesting, thanks for confirming that. Maybe in a lab that’s true, but I feel like it does the opposite. I wax it and have tried Slipit as well, it still seems like there is a lot of drag on the material.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker yep that’s the complaint. Carbon method is developing a product for this issue. Bents woodworking is beta testing it and it seems that applying multiple layers of it helps

@@AlexK07010good to know, and thanks!

Thanks for sharing that information! I’ll take a look at their blades.

The blade sharpening service we use bores the holes no problem,it seemed like a regular request when I asked about it.

Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.

Sure, I can try to help you. There is a PDF that I got from Felder that is basically their dimensioned engineering drawing, which is what I used to figure out if it would fit in my space. You can contact Dale at Felder USA in New Castle, DE and he can help you, or email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com. As far as whether I'm happy with it, the short answer is yes. I'm going to do a follow-up review today if I have time. Like any machine, it has some quirks and things that you wish the manufacturer would change or do differently. I have a video about the rip fence, as an example. But for what I bought the machine to do, and what I have used it for, I am happy.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker This is very helpful--I will email you today. Thank you!

Thanks!

I don’t have the invoice in front of me, but I believe it was $250-$300. Let me know if you have any questions or issues that I don’t address in the video. For what it’s worth, I dealt with Dale at the Felder HQ in New Castle, DE. Good luck with what we you decide! Aside from some relatively minor complaints, I’m very happy with my machine. Just got done milling and shaping parts for 6 windows and a door.