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I was scrolling through songs and saw this and was like “yeah that’s perfect”

Good luck with whatever method you decide to use. I just took mine in and out of my cabin yesterday, and the larger wheels definitely make it much easier.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Yes, you can absolutely use the sliding table for the shaper as well. I have done it when coping the ends of rails. The only issue I had was that I had to adjust the shaper fence to be square to the sliding table, but that was a one time adjustment. Have a sliding table for the shaper is very handy for certain operations.

Thanks!

Thank you! Yes, I designed it myself. Or maybe I should say I am still designing it as I build it 🤷🏻‍♂️ I have two videos, a short and a long one showing some of the design process.

By moving the riving knife back? I’m curious. With a 310mm blade there isn’t much room to drop down the riving knife.

I have done that on my c3@@theoccasionalwoodworker

Thank you!

@@theoccasionalwoodworker ruclips.net/user/shortsR7H1hHsR8D4?si=Zq3k-9poh6UJ8L38

So you want to sell this machine?

once i get the parts @@theoccasionalwoodworker

i also have a massive collection of great spindl heads and cutters@@theoccasionalwoodworker

where are you located?@@theoccasionalwoodworker

The machine was about $14k, but that was two and half years ago, and with several accessories and the charge to split the machine into two parts for installation.

Thank you!

Let me know if there are any questions you have, I’ll try to help

Thank you! 🙏🏻

@@theoccasionalwoodworker what part of the world is this?

⁠@@helenwatson706 Western Pennsylvania, in the US, in the Appalachian Mountains

Sorry, I just saw this…good videos! I’m going to go follow your page. Thanks!

@@theoccasionalwoodworker thank you. I haven’t got the chance to edit the next part because of this holiday season. Hopefully I can resume to my regular upload schedule in January.

Robert - I’ll do my best to help, and feel free to ask more questions or follow up if I miss something. In general, with the table saw, try to fit the larger model if it works for you. You will be surprised at how much the larger capacity helps…for example, the ability to straight line rip a 7’ foot board is very nice, even if you never need the larger crosscut capacity. I’m not familiar with the Kreg featherboards, but they appear to be similar to a set I bought on Amazon that fit into the T slot on the sliding table. They definitely come in handy. You wouldn’t need your crosscut or angle sled anymore since that capability is inherent in the machine. As far as box joints, you may be able to modify your jig to work with the T slot on the sliding table, but of course that would depend. I would recommend you look at what dado tooling is out there for the Hammer…it’s certainly not as wide an assortment as for a Unisaw type saw. Personally, I rarely use dado tooling, so it’s not an issue, but if you use dado tooling a lot, you may want to consider that. I should also point out that the Hammer is a right-tilt saw, in case yours is a left tilt. I worked professionally in a shop that had both left and right tilt saws, which was hugely helpful. Just something to consider. As far as working small pieces, use a zero clearance insert and a 10” blade, and there shouldn’t be much difference. I will say I am careful about small pieces with the machine when there is a 12” blade and a non-zero clearance insert. With regard to the router table versus shaper with router collet, off the top of my head, I can’t think of any reason why you can’t do everything with this that you would with your insert…and probably better and easier. I’m sure someone on the internet can tell me why I’m wrong. True, you may not be able to get the high RPM’s, but you can slow down your feed rate to compensate. I think you’ll find that the incredible stability of a shaper running a tiny (relatively) piece of tooling with a highly overpowered motor on a very stable platform and a solid fence will more than compensate for any advantage a higher RPM would provide. Possibly it may not be as flexible in terms of screwing or clamping additional fences or such, but the provided fence and guides are pretty useful. Also, having the sliding table with the shaper head opens up other possibilities that most router tables can’t replicate. I know I use it when I am doing cope and stick operations. One other minor point, there is no 1/4” collet for the shaper, in case you use any 1/4” shank bits. Hope this helps!

I agree. I think as long as people understand what the machines are capable of and what the limitations are, it’s a really good machine that can do excellent work in a relatively small space.

I was able to get them to send me a PDF that is basically the dimensioned engineering drawings. It should have everything you need. Email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com and I’ll send it to you.

Thanks for the feedback! I’ll look at the Felder guard and see if it can fit the Hammer machine.

Wow, I didn’t realize that there was actually something official showing the rip fence not continuing past the blade. That’s fascinating, since even the European machines I have used previously had longer rip fences. And although maybe it is just one of those differences between European and American techniques, it seems crazy to me. But hey, whatever works 🤷🏻‍♂️

Yes, I agree that Martin makes excellent equipment, I’ve used it before professionally. And in my next life as a real woodworker or a rich dilettante who can afford to buy expensive woodworking machinery for a hobby, I assure you, I’ll have a giant radiant heated shop full of Martin machinery.

The floors are insulated. R-30 batts that you can see when I’m laying the subfloor. Luckily for me, the only person that has to deal with all my mistakes is me, since it’s my cabin 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@theoccasionalwoodworker ahh Didn’t notice the Insulation kinda blended in … and Very true of can’t argue that logic.

The concrete piers are a product called EZ Tube, which is a precast modular footing and pier, similar to using a Sonotube and pouring concrete. On top of those are pressure treated 6x6 posts, connected to both the piers and the floor framing with Simpson metal framing connectors. It’s the first time I’ve used EZ Tubes, but it saved me an enormous amount of time and trouble versus trying to pour concrete. More expensive, but worth it in this application.

Thanks!

Subbed back…cool stuff you’re doing

It’s a Felder part, made for the Felder table saws. I don’t have the part number handy, but I can get it. I believe it’s the 1200mm fence. I have another video that’s shows the modifications I had to make to accept that longer fence. It was a bit of a pain, but I’m much happier with the longer and taller fence.

Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll look into it.

The stock feeder worked very well for the shaper operation that I was preparing for in the video. It has plenty of power, and the slow speed feed rate was perfect for the operation I was doing. My improvised mount worked well. Of course I would prefer not to have spent that much money on a stock feeder, but I feel like it’s a good value for the price, compared to what some other manufacturers offer. And you can’t put a price on keeping all your fingers where they belong 🤷🏻‍♂️

I paid about $14k for the C3 41 Comfort model, and then some of the accessories were purchased additionally to that price. Keep in mind, I made the order two years ago, and I’m sure prices have gone up since then. Like a car, you really have to see what options and accessories are being offered to make a direct price comparison.

Thanks! I agree, everyone has different expectations and needs for machinery. What works for one person may not for another.

Interesting, thanks for confirming that. Maybe in a lab that’s true, but I feel like it does the opposite. I wax it and have tried Slipit as well, it still seems like there is a lot of drag on the material.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker yep that’s the complaint. Carbon method is developing a product for this issue. Bents woodworking is beta testing it and it seems that applying multiple layers of it helps

@@AlexK07010good to know, and thanks!

Thanks for sharing that information! I’ll take a look at their blades.

The blade sharpening service we use bores the holes no problem,it seemed like a regular request when I asked about it.

Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.

Sure, I can try to help you. There is a PDF that I got from Felder that is basically their dimensioned engineering drawing, which is what I used to figure out if it would fit in my space. You can contact Dale at Felder USA in New Castle, DE and he can help you, or email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com. As far as whether I'm happy with it, the short answer is yes. I'm going to do a follow-up review today if I have time. Like any machine, it has some quirks and things that you wish the manufacturer would change or do differently. I have a video about the rip fence, as an example. But for what I bought the machine to do, and what I have used it for, I am happy.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker This is very helpful--I will email you today. Thank you!

Thanks!

I don’t have the invoice in front of me, but I believe it was $250-$300. Let me know if you have any questions or issues that I don’t address in the video. For what it’s worth, I dealt with Dale at the Felder HQ in New Castle, DE. Good luck with what we you decide! Aside from some relatively minor complaints, I’m very happy with my machine. Just got done milling and shaping parts for 6 windows and a door.

Yes, I actually retro-fitted the longer and stiffer Felder rip fence to my machine, and I'm happy with it. I agree that the Hammer should come with a better rip fence for what the machine costs.

@dwarden3 I could get a 4x8 into my basement if I really needed to, but I would usually cut it down with my Festool track saw before taking smaller pieces down to the basement as needed. Also, this machine has a stroke of 7' on the sliding table, so it wouldn't be ideal for processing 4x8's the way you might with a larger sliding table machine. With that said, I have crosscut, ripped, jointed, and planed 8' pieces of solid lumber several times already, and I have used the slider to straight-line rip 7' pieces. I'm not running a production shop, so I've compromised some efficiency of operations to fit this thing in my basement.

Thanks, I appreciate that. It certainly was a challenge, but it’s been worth it to me.

Sure, I will check it later today. I assume what you’re looking for is the dimension from the right edge (as you’re looking at the infeed side of the saw) of the jointer/planer to the tip of the crosscut fence when it is not extended?

OK, I'll try to be as specific as I can. My machine, a C3 41 Comfort, with the telescoping fence extension collapsed, is 93" (2362mm) from the tip of the crosscut fence to the handles that protrude from the jointer/planer (the handles I refer to are the handles you engage to lift the jointer table up to use the planer). The telescoping fence extension is an accessory that doesn't come with the basic machine, and it adds 4" (101mm). If you didn't order the telescoping fence extension, the machine would be 89" (2261mm) in width. I don't want to insult your intelligence, but keep in mind that the basic C3 41 (not the Comfort or Perform) has a shorter crosscut fence, and so would be less wide, and the C3 31 would be 4" less wide because of the smaller jointer/planer bed. Also, you need some space to the side of the jointer/planer to be able to operate it. Last, one thing that helped me a great deal was that I requested dimensioned drawings from the Felder salesperson. They sent me a PDF with fully dimensioned drawings of the machine. If you have trouble getting them, I could send you the ones I have.

Thanks! Unfortunately it does only fit certain situations. But best of luck finding a solution that works for you. Let me know if I can help!

@joschmoyo4532 - Combination machines fill a niche, which obviously isn't your niche. I agree that they aren't intended or appropriate for production work. I've spent a considerable amount of time in professional shops, and I have built projects that appeared in Architectural Digest and Fine Homebuilding magazines. With that said, even though I have been a successful professional woodworker, I bought this machine to do work for myself, so I suppose I am a hobbyist in what I am choosing to do with it. I don't have the space for multiple machines, or the need to do production work. With the exception of the issues I talk about in this video, I am very pleased with the machine. It is all about expectations; if anyone expects one of the combination machines to be the primary machine of a production shop, they will be disappointed. I didn't expect that, but I did expect the rip fence to be a better product, which is why I made this video. For a few hours work, I fixed the problem and I am happy with the solution. I don't see it as any different than someone who retrofits a Biesemeyer fence or any of the hundreds of other modifications that people make to their table saws. Best of luck with your business!

@@theoccasionalwoodworker I retro fitted a Biesemeyer fence on Delta table saws and an Oliver. It's a well known and sensible upgrade that's been around since the nineties. Easy to do, worth the time and money. I hear the space saver argument a lot but I don't buy it. To many guy's use their work space for storage and crowd it out. If your serious about making you make space. There are no cabinets in my shop. No fitted drawers. No benches along the wall. I've used combination machine's and quickly came to hate them. The boss bought it to save money not space but most shop employers are idiot's in my experience. Two plus machine's in one ! Three times the amount of time to do the same amount of work more like. My last experience was with a Robland combination. What a pig that thing was. Hopelessly inaccurate, the Jointer tables never could sit co planar and were to short to joint accurately if they were. Absolute garbage. Thank God that job didn't go on forever because milling the cut list's for a two storey pipe organ case was not small beer. It was a running battle making everything to an acceptable tolerance. Never again.

Thanks!

Those drawers took me almost a whole day each to make, from start to finish, but it was good practice.

Hahahaha, I wish! Probably about 59 hours…give or take a few 🤷🏻‍♂️