I have the same unit and I also really like the machine. The Hammer C3-41 is well made and easy to set up. For me the combo machine is perfect for smaller shops where having an individual shaper, Jointer, Planer and table saw would be tough to fit. In addition I only had to run one electrical line to the machine and one dust extraction trunk. Each of the components (table saw, jointer, shaper etc) are heavy duty, very precise, easy to set up and use. Having said all of that the fence is not great, and is a bit hard to adjust. Probably the only down side of the machine - but it works and gets the job done. I like your fix - nice job. If I had to do it again I would still buy this machine.
I agree. I think as long as people understand what the machines are capable of and what the limitations are, it’s a really good machine that can do excellent work in a relatively small space.
I owned a c331 and the stock fence and holder might work with the longer fence you have and it's height adjustable. But that's another item you have to purchase. just a thought.
Can you please do a video going over the machine, price, why you bought it, space needed, which capabilities are worth having, comparing to table saw + CNC router, and highs/lows based on six months of ownership? I can't find any reviews on this machine on RUclips
Luke, sure, I can do another video. Let me put some thoughts together and I’ll try to get it done soon. For what it’s worth, this machine is basically a K3 table saw/shaper bolted to an A3 41 jointer/planer. You may find more reviews on those machines and probably 90% of what people say about those machines also applies to these machines, the biggest exception in my mind being the width of the table on the table saw, and the split rip fence. Also, if you haven’t already watched it, my other video about setting up the machine talks quite a bit about the space it needs and what options I got. If you have any specific questions, let me know and I’ll try to answer them.
I can think of a few alternatives: 1. buy another C3 41 fence, make a steel bar with tapped holes and set screws to extend the current fence; 2. cut the bottom of the long fence until it's the correct height; 3. what is the current height for the T slot? Maybe an 8020 extrusion can can match. Or some T slot extrusion that has a lower T slot height, then add some UHMW pads on the bottom of such extrusion to reach the corret T slot height; I am still waiting to get the used C3 31 to move into my shop. I ordered the mobility kit, and they came in 2 boxes taped together and life long supply of bubble wraps.
Yes, I agree, there are certainly other alternatives. The center line of the T-slot in the factory provided fence is approximately 29mm, and I couldn't find an 80/20 or other extrusion that matched that, but there may very well be one out there. I considered cutting the longer Felder extrusion, but decided against it. I already had the longer Felder extrusion on hand, so I wanted to find a solution that used it and that didn't damage it, in case I decided to return it to Felder. It's also worth mentioning that these fences are made to be flipped 90 degrees to lay flat when ripping with the blade at a bevel, so I also wanted a solution that would keep that functionality. Good luck with your C3 31, and please post any solutions or tricks you find about your machine.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker 40x80 extrusion should have center of T slot 20mm above bottom, and there are 6 slots. May need to use pads to make up that 9mm difference. Verysupercool tool fence uses such extrusion. I came cross a few 10ft long ones locally and bout 2, cut to various sizes. 2 shorter ones I used to clamp to my biesmeyer fence to have a longer fence, and also cover up the middle of my biesmeyer which has an 8 thou dip. C3 31 I’m buying is used. Shaper head was stuck, and seller is fixing that and replacing a few small parts. I already sold my Unisaw, 6” jointer and 15” planer to make room for hammer.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker do you use any messaging app? I found an extrusion that has pretty much the same profile as hammer fence, and you can purchase by length. I can send you the profile drawing.
Thank you, this kind of thing is hard to notice before ownership, and it’s great to see possible solutions! If possible, I would like to ask you about the router cutting potential. People from the dealership told me it’s not strong enough to make windows, and It’s something I am looking for…Have you had the chance to test it’s strength to a point where it’s not enough? Is it an issue with the machine? Thank you!
I've used the shaper for two operations so far - rabbeting and making a window sash. I used a set of Freeborn PC-10-010 cope and pattern cutters to make the window sash: freeborntool.com/product/pc-10-010-pt-10-010/ I did not notice any power issues in using the cutters...in fact, I thought the shaper did an excellent job. My machine is a single phase machine and is on a 30 amp 240V circuit. Like any machine, I'm sure it's possible to find jobs that would overload it, but I think it's perfectly capable of cutting the profile on a window sash or door. If you haven't used a shaper with a sliding table before, you will find it to be a very useful feature, although I must say the shaper fence needs adjustment to be square to the sliding table.
I don't understand your video and concern to be honest. You have 2 situations to cover: - You rip raw wood: you certainly do not want the fence to extend beyond the blade, you actually want the fence to stop around the middle of the blade in order to allow the wood to release tensions when it's cut and not get pinched between the blade and the fence - You rip perfectly planned and square wood to dimensions: you only need the fence to protrude a couple inches from the blade. Looking at the video, and the rough dimensions you are showing, it is working perfectly.
It amazes me how many hobby woodworker's fall for the combination station concept. I would be tearing my hair out trying to earn a living with one of those thing's. They are just so badly thought out and the price for what your getting ? Forget it. I know what happens. Guys want a brand new shiny toy to show off but you will spend so much time switching functions to get anything done that eventually you give up and the only thing the machine does well is gather dust. Fences need to be solid, sturdy, well engineered. They need to lock firmly, not flex. They need to support the work over a long length to keep the work aligned on the blades. The common table height sales pitch is a stupid excuse to have the planer right next to the table saw ! What an absolute pain in the ass.
@joschmoyo4532 - Combination machines fill a niche, which obviously isn't your niche. I agree that they aren't intended or appropriate for production work. I've spent a considerable amount of time in professional shops, and I have built projects that appeared in Architectural Digest and Fine Homebuilding magazines. With that said, even though I have been a successful professional woodworker, I bought this machine to do work for myself, so I suppose I am a hobbyist in what I am choosing to do with it. I don't have the space for multiple machines, or the need to do production work. With the exception of the issues I talk about in this video, I am very pleased with the machine. It is all about expectations; if anyone expects one of the combination machines to be the primary machine of a production shop, they will be disappointed. I didn't expect that, but I did expect the rip fence to be a better product, which is why I made this video. For a few hours work, I fixed the problem and I am happy with the solution. I don't see it as any different than someone who retrofits a Biesemeyer fence or any of the hundreds of other modifications that people make to their table saws. Best of luck with your business!
@@theoccasionalwoodworker I retro fitted a Biesemeyer fence on Delta table saws and an Oliver. It's a well known and sensible upgrade that's been around since the nineties. Easy to do, worth the time and money. I hear the space saver argument a lot but I don't buy it. To many guy's use their work space for storage and crowd it out. If your serious about making you make space. There are no cabinets in my shop. No fitted drawers. No benches along the wall. I've used combination machine's and quickly came to hate them. The boss bought it to save money not space but most shop employers are idiot's in my experience. Two plus machine's in one ! Three times the amount of time to do the same amount of work more like. My last experience was with a Robland combination. What a pig that thing was. Hopelessly inaccurate, the Jointer tables never could sit co planar and were to short to joint accurately if they were. Absolute garbage. Thank God that job didn't go on forever because milling the cut list's for a two storey pipe organ case was not small beer. It was a running battle making everything to an acceptable tolerance. Never again.
I have the same unit and I also really like the machine. The Hammer C3-41 is well made and easy to set up. For me the combo machine is perfect for smaller shops where having an individual shaper, Jointer, Planer and table saw would be tough to fit. In addition I only had to run one electrical line to the machine and one dust extraction trunk. Each of the components (table saw, jointer, shaper etc) are heavy duty, very precise, easy to set up and use. Having said all of that the fence is not great, and is a bit hard to adjust. Probably the only down side of the machine - but it works and gets the job done. I like your fix - nice job. If I had to do it again I would still buy this machine.
I agree. I think as long as people understand what the machines are capable of and what the limitations are, it’s a really good machine that can do excellent work in a relatively small space.
I owned a c331 and the stock fence and holder might work with the longer fence you have and it's height adjustable. But that's another item you have to purchase. just a thought.
Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll look into it.
Can you please do a video going over the machine, price, why you bought it, space needed, which capabilities are worth having, comparing to table saw + CNC router, and highs/lows based on six months of ownership? I can't find any reviews on this machine on RUclips
Luke, sure, I can do another video. Let me put some thoughts together and I’ll try to get it done soon. For what it’s worth, this machine is basically a K3 table saw/shaper bolted to an A3 41 jointer/planer. You may find more reviews on those machines and probably 90% of what people say about those machines also applies to these machines, the biggest exception in my mind being the width of the table on the table saw, and the split rip fence. Also, if you haven’t already watched it, my other video about setting up the machine talks quite a bit about the space it needs and what options I got. If you have any specific questions, let me know and I’ll try to answer them.
I can think of a few alternatives:
1. buy another C3 41 fence, make a steel bar with tapped holes and set screws to extend the current fence;
2. cut the bottom of the long fence until it's the correct height;
3. what is the current height for the T slot? Maybe an 8020 extrusion can can match. Or some T slot extrusion that has a lower T slot height, then add some UHMW pads on the bottom of such extrusion to reach the corret T slot height;
I am still waiting to get the used C3 31 to move into my shop. I ordered the mobility kit, and they came in 2 boxes taped together and life long supply of bubble wraps.
Yes, I agree, there are certainly other alternatives. The center line of the T-slot in the factory provided fence is approximately 29mm, and I couldn't find an 80/20 or other extrusion that matched that, but there may very well be one out there. I considered cutting the longer Felder extrusion, but decided against it. I already had the longer Felder extrusion on hand, so I wanted to find a solution that used it and that didn't damage it, in case I decided to return it to Felder. It's also worth mentioning that these fences are made to be flipped 90 degrees to lay flat when ripping with the blade at a bevel, so I also wanted a solution that would keep that functionality.
Good luck with your C3 31, and please post any solutions or tricks you find about your machine.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker 40x80 extrusion should have center of T slot 20mm above bottom, and there are 6 slots. May need to use pads to make up that 9mm difference. Verysupercool tool fence uses such extrusion. I came cross a few 10ft long ones locally and bout 2, cut to various sizes. 2 shorter ones I used to clamp to my biesmeyer fence to have a longer fence, and also cover up the middle of my biesmeyer which has an 8 thou dip.
C3 31 I’m buying is used. Shaper head was stuck, and seller is fixing that and replacing a few small parts. I already sold my Unisaw, 6” jointer and 15” planer to make room for hammer.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker do you use any messaging app? I found an extrusion that has pretty much the same profile as hammer fence, and you can purchase by length. I can send you the profile drawing.
Thank you, this kind of thing is hard to notice before ownership, and it’s great to see possible solutions!
If possible, I would like to ask you about the router cutting potential. People from the dealership told me it’s not strong enough to make windows, and It’s something I am looking for…Have you had the chance to test it’s strength to a point where it’s not enough? Is it an issue with the machine? Thank you!
I've used the shaper for two operations so far - rabbeting and making a window sash. I used a set of Freeborn PC-10-010 cope and pattern cutters to make the window sash:
freeborntool.com/product/pc-10-010-pt-10-010/
I did not notice any power issues in using the cutters...in fact, I thought the shaper did an excellent job. My machine is a single phase machine and is on a 30 amp 240V circuit. Like any machine, I'm sure it's possible to find jobs that would overload it, but I think it's perfectly capable of cutting the profile on a window sash or door. If you haven't used a shaper with a sliding table before, you will find it to be a very useful feature, although I must say the shaper fence needs adjustment to be square to the sliding table.
@@theoccasionalwoodworker Thank you SO much!!!
I don't understand your video and concern to be honest.
You have 2 situations to cover:
- You rip raw wood: you certainly do not want the fence to extend beyond the blade, you actually want the fence to stop around the middle of the blade in order to allow the wood to release tensions when it's cut and not get pinched between the blade and the fence
- You rip perfectly planned and square wood to dimensions: you only need the fence to protrude a couple inches from the blade.
Looking at the video, and the rough dimensions you are showing, it is working perfectly.
It amazes me how many hobby woodworker's fall for the combination station concept. I would be tearing my hair out trying to earn a living with one of those thing's. They are just so badly thought out and the price for what your getting ? Forget it.
I know what happens. Guys want a brand new shiny toy to show off but
you will spend so much time switching functions to get anything done that eventually you give up and the only thing the machine does well is gather dust.
Fences need to be solid, sturdy, well engineered. They need to lock firmly, not flex. They need to support the work over a long length to keep the work aligned on the blades.
The common table height sales pitch is a stupid excuse to have the planer right next to the table saw !
What an absolute pain in the ass.
@joschmoyo4532 - Combination machines fill a niche, which obviously isn't your niche. I agree that they aren't intended or appropriate for production work. I've spent a considerable amount of time in professional shops, and I have built projects that appeared in Architectural Digest and Fine Homebuilding magazines. With that said, even though I have been a successful professional woodworker, I bought this machine to do work for myself, so I suppose I am a hobbyist in what I am choosing to do with it. I don't have the space for multiple machines, or the need to do production work. With the exception of the issues I talk about in this video, I am very pleased with the machine. It is all about expectations; if anyone expects one of the combination machines to be the primary machine of a production shop, they will be disappointed. I didn't expect that, but I did expect the rip fence to be a better product, which is why I made this video. For a few hours work, I fixed the problem and I am happy with the solution. I don't see it as any different than someone who retrofits a Biesemeyer fence or any of the hundreds of other modifications that people make to their table saws. Best of luck with your business!
@@theoccasionalwoodworker
I retro fitted a Biesemeyer fence on Delta table saws and an Oliver.
It's a well known and sensible upgrade that's been around since the nineties. Easy to do, worth the time and money. I hear the space saver argument a lot but I don't buy it. To many guy's use their work space for storage and crowd it out. If your serious about making you make space.
There are no cabinets in my shop. No fitted drawers. No benches along the wall. I've used combination machine's and quickly came to hate them. The boss bought it to save money not space but most shop employers are idiot's in my experience.
Two plus machine's in one !
Three times the amount of time to do the same amount of work more like. My last experience was with a Robland combination. What a pig that thing was. Hopelessly inaccurate, the Jointer tables never could sit co planar and were to short to joint accurately if they were. Absolute garbage.
Thank God that job didn't go on forever because milling the cut list's for a two storey pipe organ case was not small beer.
It was a running battle making everything to an acceptable tolerance. Never again.
Sounds to me you got the wrong machine for what you need .