If you have the time spray WD40 and just tap the bolt a few times as hard as possible to loosen any rust on the threads and leave it for about 20 mins should come off easier.
Did you replace the bolt or just leave the stud of the old one in to hold the new sensor in place? Would the sensor not just come loose after say a harsh speed bump etc? I will be doing one soon and I just know the bolt will be seized
The stud was just left there and in a way it acts a bit like an alignment dowel making sure the sensor is in the right position, but it doesn't hold the sensor in place any more, the fit between the hole in the backplate and the sensor is very tight, it took me about 15 mins tapping at the sensor to get it all the way into the backplate, i wasnt able to move it at all by hand when it was in place. The sensor on the passenger side was the same, the bolt turned a bit then snapped off but the new sensor is just held in by the tight fit and its still working fine, the car has covered 20,000 miles since last year and there are no problems. Of course if you can remove the bolt that would be much better, if it does come out as a precaution before reinstalling it, give it a good clean with a wire brush, use a tap to clean out the threads it goes into on the backplate, and use copper grease to prevent it seizing.
You should have used a twist socket on the hex bolts head. That would probably have done it. Especially if you prepared it with wd40 and some minor bashing to loosen the threads. Anyway, good video over all since it shows how much work it takes and where everything is located and put together, thanks
j'ai exactement le meme problème sur ma skoda fabia tri 100 cv de la meme année,nous avons changer les capteurs ABS,mais ça fait exactement la meme chose !
At 2:09 the rear brake shoes are visbile on the outer edge. The friction material itself can absorb WD40 or other oils which can reduce the braking efficency.
That's all well and good if you have a spare day to mess about with one little sensor but if you don't have time then you probably have money and should do the wise thing and get a professional to do it in less than an hour.
+Finnur Alexandersson At the very most this took 2 hours and thats a worst case scenario with a bolt rusted solidly into place. 2 hours of spare time is probably still going to cost less than 1 hour at a main dealer/mechanic, who at the same time is only going to do the exact same faffing about trying to get a rusted bolt out of place, as professional as they may be a seized bolt is still a seized bolt.
Good fix. I guess if you were particularly "anal" about it you could remove the hub and drill it out? That said it was pretty snug in there, will be a 5 minute job next time :)
If you have the time spray WD40 and just tap the bolt a few times as hard as possible to loosen any rust on the threads and leave it for about 20 mins should come off easier.
Thanks for sharing your video. It was very useful.
glad to hear it helped thanks
Did you replace the bolt or just leave the stud of the old one in to hold the new sensor in place? Would the sensor not just come loose after say a harsh speed bump etc? I will be doing one soon and I just know the bolt will be seized
The stud was just left there and in a way it acts a bit like an alignment dowel making sure the sensor is in the right position, but it doesn't hold the sensor in place any more, the fit between the hole in the backplate and the sensor is very tight, it took me about 15 mins tapping at the sensor to get it all the way into the backplate, i wasnt able to move it at all by hand when it was in place. The sensor on the passenger side was the same, the bolt turned a bit then snapped off but the new sensor is just held in by the tight fit and its still working fine, the car has covered 20,000 miles since last year and there are no problems.
Of course if you can remove the bolt that would be much better, if it does come out as a precaution before reinstalling it, give it a good clean with a wire brush, use a tap to clean out the threads it goes into on the backplate, and use copper grease to prevent it seizing.
You should have used a twist socket on the hex bolts head. That would probably have done it. Especially if you prepared it with wd40 and some minor bashing to loosen the threads. Anyway, good video over all since it shows how much work it takes and where everything is located and put together, thanks
Unfortunatley i think this bolt was just stuck in there, our roads get a lot of salt and it is very corrosive around small fasteners like these.
j'ai exactement le meme problème sur ma skoda fabia tri 100 cv de la meme année,nous avons changer les capteurs ABS,mais ça fait exactement la meme chose !
You pressue washed brake shoes and brake cylinders ??
Yes the water did not do them a button of harm, it dries off and as its not salt water they dont turn into the mass of rust some might expect.
I have problems with Tec in octavia how can I fix it
Which one is the rear shoe and why avoid WD40 sprayed on it?
At 2:09 the rear brake shoes are visbile on the outer edge. The friction material itself can absorb WD40 or other oils which can reduce the braking efficency.
That's all well and good if you have a spare day to mess about with one little sensor but if you don't have time then you probably have money and should do the wise thing and get a professional to do it in less than an hour.
+Finnur Alexandersson
At the very most this took 2 hours and thats a worst case scenario with a bolt rusted solidly into place. 2 hours of spare time is probably still going to cost less than 1 hour at a main dealer/mechanic, who at the same time is only going to do the exact same faffing about trying to get a rusted bolt out of place, as professional as they may be a seized bolt is still a seized bolt.
Or you could save money and teach yourself valuable skills.
How many sensors does a Skoda Octavia have on each of its wheels
One ABS sensor per wheel
Кто из наших тут?
The front subframe?
Good fix.
I guess if you were particularly "anal" about it you could remove the hub and drill it out?
That said it was pretty snug in there, will be a 5 minute job next time :)
Not a good idea to blast it with water .Rust will follow
That and the bearing having grease blasted out.