Do not change the crankcase oil and the filter at the same time. You drain the oil out of the crankcase then refill. Only after you have refilled the the crankcase do you break the oil filter lose. If possible always pre-fill or prime the oil filter if you can. This eliminates or minimizes the loss of prime. Even the old GM 60° V6's lose prime easily but always lose prime if you have an empty oil pan and the oil filter side of the circuit empty and opened to air. That used to be common knowledge that it seems has been forgotten. Chrysler and Toyota have used Gerotor oil pump designs for many decades with out issue.
GRP67, We tested 3 viscosities in this test that day, a 10W-30, 10W-40, and 15W-50. This was simply an editing error in using the wrong clip when filling one of the 10W-30 oils. The 15W-50 is the one illustrated in the test that took the longest to prime, the 15W-50 is what is recommended by GM so this is why we tested it. In the end after reviewing oil analysis, as well as monitoring oil temps and HP during the test we determined that the XP9 10W-40 was the right oil for the CT525 Crate Engine. Hope this helps, and thank you. drivenracingoil.com/i-30497842-xp9-10w-40-synthetic-racing-oil.html
@@DrivenracingoilLLC It would be interesting to see how a 5W40 and 0W40 behave in this engine! I say this because when Exxon Mobil brought out 0W40 to the market what 15 years ago maybe more I began running in all of my GM, Toyota and Dodge products and doing a lot of UOA. To this day I still use 0W40 in everything that still has a mechanical oil pump with fantastic results.
Neither is a Gen 1 S.B., The pickup tube is just in the oil unless you're running 2 more quarts extra to submerge it, The pick up tube in a LS is also submerged in the oil just as the pickup tube in a Gen 1
Appreciate the comments guys and hope you find it informative.
Should be strong selling point for an accumulator!
Enjoyed the vid!! Thanks for sharing:)
Glad my SBF is not set up that way. I get oil pressure in 3 seconds or less after oil change.
Do not change the crankcase oil and the filter at the same time. You drain the oil out of the crankcase then refill. Only after you have refilled the the crankcase do you break the oil filter lose. If possible always pre-fill or prime the oil filter if you can.
This eliminates or minimizes the loss of prime. Even the old GM 60° V6's lose prime easily but always lose prime if you have an empty oil pan and the oil filter side of the circuit empty and opened to air.
That used to be common knowledge that it seems has been forgotten.
Chrysler and Toyota have used Gerotor oil pump designs for many decades with out issue.
They use those for the super late models
Your oil 🛢 said 10w30??
GRP67, We tested 3 viscosities in this test that day, a 10W-30, 10W-40, and 15W-50. This was simply an editing error in using the wrong clip when filling one of the 10W-30 oils. The 15W-50 is the one illustrated in the test that took the longest to prime, the 15W-50 is what is recommended by GM so this is why we tested it. In the end after reviewing oil analysis, as well as monitoring oil temps and HP during the test we determined that the XP9 10W-40 was the right oil for the CT525 Crate Engine. Hope this helps, and thank you.
drivenracingoil.com/i-30497842-xp9-10w-40-synthetic-racing-oil.html
@@DrivenracingoilLLC It would be interesting to see how a 5W40 and 0W40 behave in this engine! I say this because when Exxon Mobil brought out 0W40 to the market what 15 years ago maybe more I began running in all of my GM, Toyota and Dodge products and doing a lot of UOA. To this day I still use 0W40 in everything that still has a mechanical oil pump with fantastic results.
Neither is a Gen 1 S.B., The pickup tube is just in the oil unless you're running 2 more quarts extra to submerge it, The pick up tube in a LS is also submerged in the oil just as the pickup tube in a Gen 1