The previous owner of my KEI truck didn't care for the engine much. Had carbon deposits cause pre-ignition in my truck. Mangled the connecting rod, shattered and melted the Conrod bearing. Barely limped home, but she did. Lake Speed Jr. has become my go to for information on keeping my new engine, the last one. Close to swapping the new engine in, and I'm going to do it ALL 💯% right.
@@TotalSeal any recommendations for a brand new Suzuki F8A crate engine that's been test run? Shipped from overseas of course. I'm assuming they didn't do a proper load break in. Just a test stand run. I'm leaning towards an hour running on Motul break in, then flush and run liquid moly 10w40 synthetic.
@@TotalSeal And you are very welcome. I genuinely appreciate you making these videos. I'm finishing up my dream truck and I want to hand it down after I pass. You're a key part to that. Thank you.
Thank you again, I’m learning a lot through your videos. if this honest content keeps coming, I’m going to have no choice but to back this company. I’m already considering the dry assembly lube I seen on Danny’s video. #1 because I’m going to need it someday. And #2 also because this content does not seem like it’s trying to sell me anything. You you guys do let me know about products and services that you can offer, But you’re giving me the knowledge free and letting it up to me to make the choice. And in my book that honesty goes a whole lot further than you think. I’m not a wealthy man by any measure, and I usually research things for months if not years. But I really do feel like I can have some trust in a company if they’re this open with me. I don’t have a lot of money at all sir, but I know I might need that dry assembly lube someday. I really do believe it to be a good product. And for once (when I’m able to) I would like to purchase something from your company to personally invest a few dollars towards you. Thank you for the transparency openness and honesty.
I would like to send you a system to test that addresses each of these issues and as an unexpected benefit, sizable fuel economy increase by eliminating most detonation causing KR: ruclips.net/video/9vqBUiDHYC0/видео.html
Best explanation of all; i was in the wrong, i thought that cold oil would be scraped down , better,by being thicker, but you say otherwise, you say that thin oil,hot oil, is scraped down better?
No it's easier to scrape it down the cylinder wall if it's thin, and hot. The less mass of oil the lighter it will be, the easier it will be for those low tension rings to scrape it down the cylinder wall.
Lake, have you ever thought of producing/developing apex seals for Mazda's rotary (Wankel) engine? There is still a large market for apex seals as the engines are very popular, and are lacking good, consistent, aftermarket seal options. There are a handful of aftermarket seals on the market, but nothing is backed with the resources Total Seal has at their disposal. There is also room for improvement with their corner seal/side seal designs as well.
Redline assembly lube for oil soluble areas. Neo synthetic for press fits and seals. From .4hp to 4000hp on my resume. Having the proper tools is as important as the knowledge to use them. Patience to put something together and measure and take apart and put together to measure..over and over. Most don't have the patience..that's where the difference lies. Had to be perfect before it left my hands. Over 1000 motors built with no mechanical problems other than customers bad tunes and trying to out think us (swapping pistons without measuring ...ouch...) lol.
@@TotalSeal No problem, as a rotary guy I am always trying to bring more people into the community. They are some of the most fun engines to wrench on once you figure it all out.
The API SP standard is fully backward compatible with previous API specifications, including API SM, SN and SN Plus. ILSAC GF-6A is suitable for vehicles that previously used GF-5 lubricants, while GF-6B is only compatible with engines built for this specific engine oil category.
You do not want to put the engine under any load right after you start it. For one there us more blow by due to lack of piston expansion and the fuel system is way rich at this moment plus you want to accelerate and this requires more fuel than just idling. There is also a lot less pressure above the piston if all you are asking is for the piston to make it around until the next power stroke.
Thank you sir for this amazing video. Bought a vehicle with M274 turbocharged inline 4 engine at over 50k miles. Treated with high PEA cleaner and started using only 93 octane top tier gas. Also just replaced the oil with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 *SP* version. Planning to keep oil change intervals at every 3k miles. Is there anything else I can do further to prevent LSPI?
Can LSPI lead to head gasket failure? The 1.5T GDI in the Accords have been steady failing at 100k at the thin spot between bores. Never known a dealership to put anything but bulk synthetic blend in anything unless the customer is paying a serious upcharge for it.
Thanks! I'll let them know the SP barrels we get shipped should probably go on the floor with a hand pump instead of pumped into the bulk when they're taking up too much space... Maybe this time they won't act like i'm pooping in their cheerios
Hello! Thanks for the video! Can you please tell me if the LSPI problem is common for Porsche V8 engines with an alusil cylinder block? My engines are also direct injection, but the manufacturer’s approvals for automotive oil only include SN. As far as I know, LSPI appears more often on modern small engines, right?
It seems like most all oils I've seen at the store are SP rated now, which is good since I have a TDI engine. However, what about my older port fuel injected car, how do I get oils that have the detergent levels we used to have in them?
Really not sure if this is important. We have never used zero gap rings in any, nhra,scca,Rolex,score,superkart and many other..motors..just saying. bore diameter doesn't affect ring tension? Bore diameter is not affected by temperature? Pistons measure the same cold and hot? So the ring touching the cylinder and the piston? Both of different materials at different sizes doesn't change ring tension?
This video is not about zero gap rings. It is strictly about direct injection engines from the factory or modified and how to prevent LSPI from occurring in those engines.
Not zero gap. Total seal which is gapless. Sorry I mixed terms that seem to mean the same mathematically. Im used to tuning end gap for my purposes. Think I'm in the wrong section..only injected motors I have ran are turbo diesels Cummins, Duramax and power stroke,.toyota gas motors and blown Donovan's running 90-100% nitromethane. Everything else has been carbed .None of which have ever done what your showing nor have any others in my life..not saying it doesn't happen..again I feel. Im in the wrong section..yes your explaining how it happens..I live in Pacific Northwest now..freezing temps..don't hear of this. Maybe not cold enough Your in Phoenix...? Christopher creek! ❤️
For 1 your Toyota engine isn't direct injection, for 2 your owners manual will list the oil grade the engine requires. If you have an oil cap that calls for 5w30 then use 5w30, if the cap calls for 0w20 then only use 0w20. THE#1 RULE is only use high quality full synthetic and keep it topped up and changed regularly. Oil isn't only for lubrication, it also carries away HEAT, so do your engine a favor and let it idle for a couple of minutes after any had driving before shutting it off. Toyota engines that receive timely and proper maintenance have no problem going 300K plus miles with the recommended oil. Synthetic blends WILL cause sludge, that sludge WILL plug the top end oiling circuit that oils (and cools) the valve train as well as the timing chain, that sludge WILL FORM inside of the VVT camshaft phasers as well as at the filter screen for the VVT oil control solenoids which feed the VVT camshaft phasers (on VVTi 4 cylinder engines), that sludge WILL FORM in the oil control ring groove of the pistons and WILL cause irreversible cylinder wall damage, that sludge WILL FORM inside of piston oil squirter's leading to premature cylinder wall wear as well as exacerbating the sludge formation in the piston ring grooves ( the piston squirter's not only lubricate the cylinder wall but they also COOL the pistons. Conventional oils and synthetic blends are more prone to coking. Coking happens when oil remains on or in hot components after the engine is shut off, it chars and becomes ashy similar to burnt facts on baking dishes and grills. It doesn't just wash off, it accumulates. Modern engines have more latent heat when they are shut off, they have much closer tolerances, and they are using motor oil as a hydraulic oil to an exponentially higher degree than old school hydraulic lifters.
Hi my MY 15 WRX FA 20 recommended to use SN grade oil for this direct injection engine in the user manual, should I switch to SP grade or stay what ever recommend by Subaru?
@@TotalSeal. Is Shell V Power enough or should I still use additional additives? Just one treatment every 3k miles is sufficient? You don’t mention using proper octane, would that also contribute to pre ignition?
Hi and congratulations for the video! I know that the LSPI has been attributed to the calcium in the engine oil and that the new API SP class has reduced the calcium content by increasing the magnesium. Since both of these additives serve as an alkaline reserve, to reduce the risk of LSPI would it be correct to prefer oils with a low TBN value whit more frequent drainage intervals? Also because the use of "Long Life" oils in GDI engines with prolonged drainage intervals, favors the accumulation of petrol in the oil and therefore the LSPI ...
@@TotalSeal Thanks for the answer, I had analyzed the oil of my Suzuki 1.4 turbo GDI and after 3200km it already contained 4.5% volatile fuel ... I use a MID SAPS (HC) 5w30 oil with a TBN of only 6.5. One thing I didn't understand is how the TAN went from 1.7 of new oil to 1.3 of used oil, maybe you have an explanation?
@@edogsx that’s a high level of fuel dilution. In regards to the TAN change, that is within the error of the test method, so most likely it did not change.
Lake you are such a good man to teach us about important things like this. You’re doing awesome stuff. Thank you 👨🔧
I appreciate that!
The previous owner of my KEI truck didn't care for the engine much. Had carbon deposits cause pre-ignition in my truck. Mangled the connecting rod, shattered and melted the Conrod bearing. Barely limped home, but she did. Lake Speed Jr. has become my go to for information on keeping my new engine, the last one. Close to swapping the new engine in, and I'm going to do it ALL 💯% right.
Thanks!
@@TotalSeal any recommendations for a brand new Suzuki F8A crate engine that's been test run? Shipped from overseas of course. I'm assuming they didn't do a proper load break in. Just a test stand run. I'm leaning towards an hour running on Motul break in, then flush and run liquid moly 10w40 synthetic.
@@TotalSeal And you are very welcome. I genuinely appreciate you making these videos. I'm finishing up my dream truck and I want to hand it down after I pass. You're a key part to that. Thank you.
@@brandonboulton2776that’s a great idea. Go with that plan.
Non direct-injection+turbocharged engines like the one in your key truck arent prone to LSPI. The failure of your engine was probably something else.
Never thought that I'd seen you talking about direct injection motors Lake, but I did enjoy your pearls of wisdom.
Thanks!
The way a piece of this advice was explained certainly changed my mind.
Thanks!
Thank you again, I’m learning a lot through your videos.
if this honest content keeps coming, I’m going to have no choice but to back this company. I’m already considering the dry assembly lube I seen on Danny’s video. #1 because I’m going to need it someday. And #2 also because this content does not seem like it’s trying to sell me anything.
You you guys do let me know about products and services that you can offer, But you’re giving me the knowledge free and letting it up to me to make the choice.
And in my book that honesty goes a whole lot further than you think. I’m not a wealthy man by any measure, and I usually research things for months if not years. But I really do feel like I can have some trust in a company if they’re this open with me.
I don’t have a lot of money at all sir, but I know I might need that dry assembly lube someday. I really do believe it to be a good product. And for once (when I’m able to) I would like to purchase something from your company to personally invest a few dollars towards you. Thank you for the transparency openness and honesty.
Thanks for the comment! We really appreciate it. The goal of this channel is education, so we are glad to hear it is being received.
There is a patented crankcase evacuation system for street use that combats this as well.
I would like to send you a system to test that addresses each of these issues and as an unexpected benefit, sizable fuel economy increase by eliminating most detonation causing KR: ruclips.net/video/9vqBUiDHYC0/видео.html
Best explanation of all;
i was in the wrong, i thought that cold oil would be scraped down , better,by being thicker,
but you say otherwise, you say that thin oil,hot oil, is scraped down better?
No it's easier to scrape it down the cylinder wall if it's thin, and hot. The less mass of oil the lighter it will be, the easier it will be for those low tension rings to scrape it down the cylinder wall.
Lake, have you ever thought of producing/developing apex seals for Mazda's rotary (Wankel) engine? There is still a large market for apex seals as the engines are very popular, and are lacking good, consistent, aftermarket seal options. There are a handful of aftermarket seals on the market, but nothing is backed with the resources Total Seal has at their disposal. There is also room for improvement with their corner seal/side seal designs as well.
Thanks for the idea. That is not something we considered.
Redline assembly lube for oil soluble areas. Neo synthetic for press fits and seals. From .4hp to 4000hp on my resume. Having the proper tools is as important as the knowledge to use them. Patience to put something together and measure and take apart and put together to measure..over and over. Most don't have the patience..that's where the difference lies. Had to be perfect before it left my hands. Over 1000 motors built with no mechanical problems other than customers bad tunes and trying to out think us (swapping pistons without measuring ...ouch...) lol.
@@TotalSeal No problem, as a rotary guy I am always trying to bring more people into the community. They are some of the most fun engines to wrench on once you figure it all out.
Thank you for tackling this problem, but the direct injection engines are just a problem no matter how we look at it
They certainly have their pros and cons
I only run Amsoil ss and 93 octane in my Chevy cruze direct injection
Awsome video a always lake, the information you provide is always top notch . Keep em coming buddy!!
Thanks!
How about Top Tier gasoline, Lake, will that make a difference, too?! Finally, what's your opinion on Berryman's B-12 Chemtool?!?!!!
it's cool to learn something new everyday thank you !
Thanks!
#1 well, the VW502 that my car needs - and 5W40 oil - do not seem to list SP.
Only SN and SN plus. But steps 2 and 3 I can definitely do!
Thanks.
SN Plus will work for DI engines.
@@TotalSeal thanks!
@@TotalSealMotul "technosynthese" and 100% Synthetic Ester engine oils are all rated API SP
The API SP standard is fully backward compatible with previous API specifications, including API SM, SN and SN Plus. ILSAC GF-6A is suitable for vehicles that previously used GF-5 lubricants, while GF-6B is only compatible with engines built for this specific engine oil category.
Based on your explanation, does 0w20 oil will have better lspi protection than 5w30? Due to oil thickness theory? Because it is thinner oil
Another fantastic explanation. Great video.
Thanks!
You do not want to put the engine under any load right after you start it. For one there us more blow by due to lack of piston expansion and the fuel system is way rich at this moment plus you want to accelerate and this requires more fuel than just idling. There is also a lot less pressure above the piston if all you are asking is for the piston to make it around until the next power stroke.
How do prone are engines with port and direct injection to lspi? Or a boosted set up like a Corolla gr?
WHAT effect we would there be by adding Marvel mystery oil 4oz per 10 gallons of gas have on LSPI
Thank you sir for this amazing video. Bought a vehicle with M274 turbocharged inline 4 engine at over 50k miles. Treated with high PEA cleaner and started using only 93 octane top tier gas. Also just replaced the oil with Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 *SP* version. Planning to keep oil change intervals at every 3k miles. Is there anything else I can do further to prevent LSPI?
Excellent! Those are the right steps to take.
Can LSPI lead to head gasket failure? The 1.5T GDI in the Accords have been steady failing at 100k at the thin spot between bores. Never known a dealership to put anything but bulk synthetic blend in anything unless the customer is paying a serious upcharge for it.
Yes
Thanks! I'll let them know the SP barrels we get shipped should probably go on the floor with a hand pump instead of pumped into the bulk when they're taking up too much space... Maybe this time they won't act like i'm pooping in their cheerios
Lake is The Guru ! Great video. To the point, easy to understand too. Subscribe and ring that bell guys !
Much appreciated!
Hello! Thanks for the video! Can you please tell me if the LSPI problem is common for Porsche V8 engines with an alusil cylinder block? My engines are also direct injection, but the manufacturer’s approvals for automotive oil only include SN. As far as I know, LSPI appears more often on modern small engines, right?
Good info, thanks for sharing
Thanks!
How does API SP differ from Dexos rating?
Got You brother Appreciate you 🙏 👊🔧🚗💪🇺🇸
Thanks!
It seems like most all oils I've seen at the store are SP rated now, which is good since I have a TDI engine. However, what about my older port fuel injected car, how do I get oils that have the detergent levels we used to have in them?
How often should i use liqui moly direct injection additive?
Every 3,000 miles works well
My car opel insignia 2018 is recommended dexos1 gen2, api sn. Not sp. Is that wrong?
The Dexos 1 Gen 2 spec is actually a higher spec than API SP, so use the Dexos spec oil.
Really not sure if this is important. We have never used zero gap rings in any, nhra,scca,Rolex,score,superkart and many other..motors..just saying.
bore diameter doesn't affect ring tension? Bore diameter is not affected by temperature? Pistons measure the same cold and hot? So the ring touching the cylinder and the piston? Both of different materials at different sizes doesn't change ring tension?
This video is not about zero gap rings. It is strictly about direct injection engines from the factory or modified and how to prevent LSPI from occurring in those engines.
Not zero gap. Total seal which is gapless. Sorry I mixed terms that seem to mean the same mathematically. Im used to tuning end gap for my purposes. Think I'm in the wrong section..only injected motors I have ran are turbo diesels Cummins, Duramax and power stroke,.toyota gas motors and blown Donovan's running 90-100% nitromethane. Everything else has been carbed .None of which have ever done what your showing nor have any others in my life..not saying it doesn't happen..again I feel. Im in the wrong section..yes your explaining how it happens..I live in Pacific Northwest now..freezing temps..don't hear of this. Maybe not cold enough
Your in Phoenix...?
Christopher creek! ❤️
Could a Catch Can help with this?
Yes
The additive you mentioned, to the gas or oil? An additive name?
To the gas. And i believe Gumout Regane or Techron both have PEAs.
Love it
If my Toyota engine calls for 5w-30, can I run a thinner oil? 5w-20 or 0w-20 etc?
We would not recommend doing that without doing used oil analysis to make sure the thinner oil is not causing increased wear.
For 1 your Toyota engine isn't direct injection, for 2 your owners manual will list the oil grade the engine requires. If you have an oil cap that calls for 5w30 then use 5w30, if the cap calls for 0w20 then only use 0w20.
THE#1 RULE is only use high quality full synthetic and keep it topped up and changed regularly. Oil isn't only for lubrication, it also carries away HEAT, so do your engine a favor and let it idle for a couple of minutes after any had driving before shutting it off. Toyota engines that receive timely and proper maintenance have no problem going 300K plus miles with the recommended oil.
Synthetic blends WILL cause sludge, that sludge WILL plug the top end oiling circuit that oils (and cools) the valve train as well as the timing chain, that sludge WILL FORM inside of the VVT camshaft phasers as well as at the filter screen for the VVT oil control solenoids which feed the VVT camshaft phasers (on VVTi 4 cylinder engines), that sludge WILL FORM in the oil control ring groove of the pistons and WILL cause irreversible cylinder wall damage, that sludge WILL FORM inside of piston oil squirter's leading to premature cylinder wall wear as well as exacerbating the sludge formation in the piston ring grooves ( the piston squirter's not only lubricate the cylinder wall but they also COOL the pistons.
Conventional oils and synthetic blends are more prone to coking. Coking happens when oil remains on or in hot components after the engine is shut off, it chars and becomes ashy similar to burnt facts on baking dishes and grills. It doesn't just wash off, it accumulates. Modern engines have more latent heat when they are shut off, they have much closer tolerances, and they are using motor oil as a hydraulic oil to an exponentially higher degree than old school hydraulic lifters.
Is this just occurred in DI? What about indirect injection? Will it suffer from lspi as well?
Just DI engines or high compression racing engines.
What are some of the fuel additives that work with direct injection engines?
PEA based are the best.
Hi my MY 15 WRX FA 20 recommended to use SN grade oil for this direct injection engine in the user manual, should I switch to SP grade or stay what ever recommend by Subaru?
Switch to the SP spec oil. It is better than the SN for your application.
Sorry to see you dealing with so many brain-dead millionaire's guys.
Good Luck!
Thanks for this for sure!
We are happy to help!
Or Api sn+
Yeah, I've grenaded a cold engine or two.
Do any brands of gasoline already have PEA already included?
Most Top Tier fuels have some PEA. The Shell V Power does have PEA
@@TotalSeal. Is Shell V Power enough or should I still use additional additives? Just one treatment every 3k miles is sufficient? You don’t mention using proper octane, would that also contribute to pre ignition?
@@JHKCF The V Power fuel is great stuff. Using a bottle of PEA based detergent additive once a year won't hurt. It's a little extra insurance.
Hi and congratulations for the video!
I know that the LSPI has been attributed to the calcium in the engine oil and that the new API SP class has reduced the calcium content by increasing the magnesium.
Since both of these additives serve as an alkaline reserve, to reduce the risk of LSPI would it be correct to prefer oils with a low TBN value whit more frequent drainage intervals?
Also because the use of "Long Life" oils in GDI engines with prolonged drainage intervals, favors the accumulation of petrol in the oil and therefore the LSPI ...
Thanks for the comment and question. There will be a video on the @SPEEDiagnostix channel regarding TBN and API SP oils soon.
@@TotalSeal Thanks for the answer, I had analyzed the oil of my Suzuki 1.4 turbo GDI and after 3200km it already contained 4.5% volatile fuel ...
I use a MID SAPS (HC) 5w30 oil with a TBN of only 6.5.
One thing I didn't understand is how the TAN went from 1.7 of new oil to 1.3 of used oil, maybe you have an explanation?
@@TotalSeal I have seen that even DRIVEN motor oils generally have quite low TBN values compared to brands like AMSOIL which have very high TBN ...
@@edogsx that’s a high level of fuel dilution. In regards to the TAN change, that is within the error of the test method, so most likely it did not change.
@@edogsx Yes, the Driven products are typically lower Calcium formulations, which leads to that lower TBN value.
No shit Sherlock "let the engine warm up" LOL. Info my Dad told me in.......1978
You might be surprised how uncommon common sense is these days, especially when it comes to anything mechanical, LOL.
@@TotalSeal I know, I have to work "near" dopey snowflakes born after 1990,.... every fkn day, sends me insane LOL
@@markholroyde9412 LOL
… but not idling …
How about driving at a slow speed as soon as you turn on the engine to quickly warm up the engine?