Ive always used this. I have a 2003 F150 5.4 and have used MMO for years, in the gas and crankcase. 417,000 miles, runs perfectly, original powertrain. I don't believe that it would still be selling after 100 years if it didn't do some good. At 421,000 still going strong and still using MMO.
@jupitercyclops6521 yeah the 3 valve 5 4 was a nightmare. They added bs to it and made a fairly simple reliable engine and for fuel economy and emissions standards they made it unreliable. Our 5 4s are the good ones. Judging by how mine runs with almost 420,000 on it, I think it'll make 600,000, maybe more. 🤔
@SchoolforHackers usually every other oil change. You will probably be adding a little more oil throughout because MMO does thin it down a little and it evaporates faster than oil,( but not bad). Just follow the instructions on the bottle of course and it'll be good. When I use it, I start with 530 oil because 520 thinned down maybe too thin. I actually have started using 0w20 high mileage oil when not using MMO. These modular engines need thin oil at startup to get oil to everything as fast as possible. Penzoil even states on thier 0w20 oil that is supposedly good for 15,000 miles, that is also "compatible with 5w20 oil", so................
In 1984 a Buddy of mine acquired an L88 that was locked up from sitting ten years. Three bottles, about 8 oz's per cylinder, down the spark plug holes. After a couple of days The MMO was showing up in the oil pan drain bucket. Once we moved it back and forth about an inch it broke free. Fresh oil and fresh gas was all it took to revive an Awesome Engine. Some Old Guy Told Us exactly what to do. Old Guys Rule! Works well on Motorcycles too. 😎
A friend of mine restored old cars. He bought a LaSalle that was sitting for years. MMO in the cylinders for a few days. Broke the engine free. He fixed the carb, put in some fresh gas, pushed it down the driveway & it started!
I put some in my gas in my 96 Ford 351 to keep the valves from sticking because it doesn't get driven often. I sat the cap on my cruddy old running board and wiped it off of the aluminum about 15 minutes later. It shined like I'd spent hours buffing them out.
I'm bringing home a 63 Tempest that's literally been in a barn since the '70's. I pulled the plugs and added MMO a couple weeks ago. I'm hoping it works it's magic and will free up the engine.
In summary, Marvel Mystery Oil is good at removing gum and varnish, in the fuel system and in the crankcase. It will also soften rubber seals. Good to know!
It works.. I wasn't always the best about regular oil changes in a 3.8L Ford. Started blowing blue smoke during acceleration. A local shop told me it needed an overhaul or replacement long block..old timer, performance guy looked at it, took it for a rip and recommended I dump a qt of Myst oil in the crankcase (after draining a qt of oil). I drove it hard for week before changing the oil..never blew smoke again! Still going too!
I have found a perfect use for Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank and carb corrosion has always been a problem on motorcycles. The jets are really small and easily clog. If you run an ounce or two of Marvel oil in the gas tank every fill up, the tank never rusts, the carbs never corrode, and the jets never plug. I rode the same ZG1000 Kawasaki for 15 years and never worked on the carbs. Even after winter storage, the bike started and idled smoothly.
I've had similar results. I use it in all my small engines and run non ethanol gas. I don't have the fuel system problems all my friends and family do.
@@badad0166 the lard is a hold over from the 30s and prior to the chemical soup that abounds in today's world it was a very common lubricant and served as protective film post work for machinist to use mixed kerosene depending on the metal. I have known some old machinist who claimed that its actually as good or better than the modern equivalent in many ways. According to them the main benefits of the modern cutting fluid was smell after it aged a while in the heat of the summer.
Think about what lard does to a cast iron frying pan. It will get into the pores of metal, especially cast iron, but steel as well, and with heat, it will polymerize thus helping to "season", or "seal" the pores of the metal. In theory, I guess it would make the metals somewhat "non-stick", and possibly help against varnish and carbon deposit build up.
I was a skeptic for years - until as a last gasp effort years ago, I tried it on a 318 magnum in a Dodge pickup that had been overheated to the point of clacking valvetrain. I repaired the cooling issues, then... To my amazement, once I dumped a bottle in the engine and just let it sit and idle, all the clattering eventually went away and the engine ran like new! I'll never doubt it again - properly used, the stuff is not snake oil. - Ed on the Ridge
I had a C6 with stuck shift valves in the valve body. As a hail Mary before pulling the pan and cleaning the valve body ( which I absolutely did not want to do ) I dumped a bottle in. After about an hour of driving around the block, things freed up and started shifting. I'm sure the neighbors thought I was nuts. I Immediately changed the fluid, as I had tried this a couple years earlier on a high mileage trans, and all those old, hard seals and o-rings turned to mush. This time I got away with it.
Why is marvel oil and dodge just like peas and carrots 😂 I had the same truck but had a bad misfire and dump a bottle in the tank and the engine and she was great I'll die on this shit being the secret sauce😂
I bought a Craftsman 1 horse electric air compressor in 1980. I ran it for a month or so and drained the oil from the pump. I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the pump and it has had NO other oil in it ever since. I have changed the belt several times and the bearings in the motor once but it still pumps up as fast as ever. and as @chuckwalker says it smells great! I ran it every day framing houses for at least 20 years running 2 nail guns. 43 years old now!
That sounds like a great idea. Especially in the winter when it gets cold in my shop. Some mornings the oil is so thick it trips my breaker when the pump kicks on. I’m gonna give it a shot
A few years ago I started putting a little into my morning coffee and I find I am much more regular now throughout the day. Seriously though, I add it to both gas and oil and I've noticed a net positive performance difference when doing so.
I've used it for 20 some years! I put a quart in, every oil change. I clean my guns with it.... It smells so good, I could almost drink the stuff! But I like it a lot! Yes, it acts as a solvent too.
I have used it in 2 engines with good results. The first is a Nissan Infinity 3.5 liter V6. The variable cam timing relies on electrical as well as hydraulics to function. The engine was throwing the code for the cam timing sensor. The sensor was testing out ok. The small fluid tunnels in the block that help with the mechanics of the cave timing became partially obstructed by varnish build up. Marvel Mystery oil in the crank case for one oil change interval cleaned that up and the engine no longer throws cam timing codes. The second is on my 66 El Camino 396 had a sticky hydraulic lifter on the #5 cylinder intake valve. Running Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case for 500 miles cleaned up the varnish in the lifter allowing the oil to move freely in and out allowing the lifter to function properly and silencing the pronounced lifter tick noise that was audible at over 2500 rpm. It has many more uses like cleaning up carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on valves. It’s always worth a try. Many a mechanic has told me it never hurt any engine that they know of.
I have a unique use for MMO. Couple years ago I was working on a Jag 3.0 liter supercharged engine. Had to remove the super charger to replace some coolant pipes and also had to remove the oil filter assembly for a simple gasket replacement. While removing "the simple" oil filter assembly, a torx bit fell off my driver and fell into the oil galleys. 2 holes it could have fallen into. One would have been ok, as it would just push the bit into the filter, but the other would be certain catastrophe. So had to find it. Got out my boroscope to find it, but all the black oil in various puddles made it impossible find. I used MMO to displace that old, dark oil, found the G damn bit and after a couple hours with a magnet, finally got that thing out. It was a nightmare because if I didn't get it out, i was going to have to pull the engine and flip it on an engine stand. Tons of work. MMO saved me from an aweful fate.
That’s the kind of stuff that makes me happy to pay mechanics. Well not happy but they earn their money usually. Those little mistakes that could turn into nightmares add up when you’re a doofus like me.
Thanks Tony for a Common Sense commentary. As a retired mechanic that keeps his vehicles until they are "old enough to vote" I have always used this in my fuel, For all the reasons you stated. Back in the old days Fuel was really crappy and unpredictable. I always said I paid off my first Mortgage rebuilding carburators. And it was due to poor Quality fuel. I advised my customers to use MMO as I did after I fixed their cars. Fast forward to now IMHO Ethanol is a terrible additive to fuel. I know this triggers the Ethanol industry. But in it of itself it is Corrosive to fuel componants and does not provide Lubricity and it is worse when moisture comes into play. With GDI this becomes an even bigger and more expensive issue.I have always used MMO at 4oz. per 10 Gallons of fuel in older vehicles and in my newer ones. Very cheap preventive maintenance. Keep on Wrenchin.
@ stevecampbell7620-- I enjoyed reading your comment. I also usually keep my vehicles until they are "old enough to vote." My current daily driver is a 2002 Lincoln Town Car that I bought in 2007, that now has 124k miles on it. For the past 8 years, I have added 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil for every 10 gallons of gas at every fill up. The car is still running great, and I plan on keeping it many more years. Hopefully the MMO is helping to combat the negative effects of the ethanol that is unfortunately added to the gas. I have had some people tell me that MMO was good for vehicles with carburetors, but not good for modern vehicles. I disagree with them. Are there any types of vehicles that you would not add MMO to the gas?
@@franknew9001 Don't want to argue, but he even says in the video that modern oils and fuels contain better versions of what is in MMO. Mineral oil is a petroleum distillate. Lard is obviously a rendered organic oil. The stoddard solvent is basically what most parts washers use as their cleaning fluid. So MMO is a basic oil mix with a large percentage of detergent in it. I would say if you have a modern car (fuel injected), and take care of it with modern fuels and oils, you will be getting all of the benefits of the modern detergents and additives that are in today's oils and gas. I totally agree though if you have an old carbureted engine, adding some to your fuel is likely quite helpful to properly lube the components of the fuel system like a mechanical fuel pump and the moving parts in the carb as well as keeping it cleaner with the higher amount of detergent thanks to the stoddard solvent. Adding some to an old engine that burns oil will likely help also since the stoddard solvent would help to literally clean components that the MMO is bypassing like rings and valves and preventing buildup in the heads.
Although ethanol can be more corrosive to some components (including rubber seals and o-rings), it actually INCREASES lubricity, not decreases. If fact, in the presence of water, the higher lubricity effect actually goes up. You can see the SAE study 2017-01-2297 which tested it. Knowing this, most modern engines and fuel systems use rings and seals which aren't affected by ethanol. Because it can hold some water, it can be more corrosive, but now most engine blocks are aluminum and most fuel tanks and lines are plastic so that solves that problem. Ethanol is more difficult to atomize, but modern fuel injectors account for that. I think most problems come from the "between stage" of carbureted engines and modern ones designed for fuel containing ethanol. You had about 20-30 years of car builders continuing to use components that weren't designed for use with ethanol containing fuel and that contained metal that could corrode and o-rings that could break down. Not to mention poor injector performance, incorrect compression ratios, and bad air/fuel mixes that tended to rob power from engines. That's not really a problem with the fuel but of the design of the components. From 2005 and on, the production of ethanol has really exploded but it still took car manufactures a while to adopt new designs. By 2011, car makers said that all of their vehicles were able to run on 10% ethanol without issues but I would surmise some components still hadn't been redesigned to fully take ethanol into account. In fact, new GDI engines are designed specifically to run with 10% ethanol since has lower CO and particle number emissions and, at those pressures, alcohol fuels have a greater combustion efficiency. According to MIT, can increase efficiency of gas only combustion by 30% while reducing emissions 25% allowing for a smaller engine with the same performance while using a higher compression ratio. That's why car companies are investing so heavily in GDI right now. The estimated increase in vehicle cost is $600 but with a fuel savings payback in less than 2 years while making it easier to meet emissions standards.
@@pirtatejoe If that's the case then why is all EPA automobile testing done with non-ethanol gasoline? And if ethanol added fuel is more efficient with a significantly better combustion rate than gas only then why do new car buyers consistently achieve worse gas mileage than the manufacturer sticker stated miles per gallon achieved during EPA tests. Yes, those tests are done in laboratories under perfect conditions, but individual driving habits only account for 2-5% variance in real world attained gas mileage. Surely the gas mileage achieved by buyers would surpass manufacturer gas mileage lab results by a significant amount once buyers started using 10% ethanol added gasoline in the real world, if ethanol improved combustion by 30%, even considering the normal 2-5% variance in gas mileage based on individual driving habits. And if E-10 improved combustion by 30% then that would mean E- 85 would have to improve combustion by 255%. It just doesn't add up, because it isn't true. Every real world fuel burn test I have seen done shows that ethanol added fuel burns dirtier and is less volatile, which would actually equate to worse combustion efficiency, less generated power and worse fuel economy. Ethanol added fuel has been a scam by the environmental community since day one. We're much better off putting the corn on our dinner tables than in our gas tanks. Alkylate gasoline, on the other hand, is extremely clean burning, more stable, efficient, with a significantly shelf life (2 years unsealed vs 6 weeks for standard ethanol and non-ethanol gas) and may be the future for cars, but as of now I've only seen it available pre-packaged in small containers for small engine use at the insane cost of about $35.00 per gallon. It would have to be much more widely mass produced and made available for less than a 10th of that price for it to be feasible for automobile use.
A fellow I used to go to training at his facility bought thousands of fuel injectors in the 80's and 90's tested, cleaned set matched them and resold. He found that "Marvel Mystery oil" worked hands down better than anything else as a preservative in Injectors on the shelf.
My 94 -1/2 year old Father still swears by this stuff & turned me into a believer at age 16 when I got my first car , a used ‘65 Corvair Monza 2 dr with 4 speed/110hp engine . I’m now 63-1/2 & use it in all my vehicles just as he taught me . Does indeed do what it promises. 😎👍
Had the pleasure of owning a few Monza coupes, and one ragtop, all late bodies. Most memorable was in Santa Fe, buying Vivian Vance's old beige, '66 Monza; and later using her engine to complete a purple, '66 'Vert. She played Ethyl on I Love Lucy, and lived in Santa Fe for many years. Who knew Ethyl drove Corvairs? I didn't, until I saw her name on the very old title.
I've been a small engine and marine mechanic for 50 years. The majority of my work has been on 2-stroke engines, both air and water cooled. MMO is absolutely amazing in its ability to break loose poorly-stored outboards and snowmobiles. I've pulled the plug(s) on a stuck snow-sled engine and poured in the MMO, and then reached down to grab the pull cord, and it rolls over. I just saved a Mercruiser 3.0L stern drive engine that sat all summer full of water. I drained the engine base, blew out the plug holes, added the MMO and walked away for two weeks. I then put a breaker bar on the crank snout, broke it loose, and had it running by that evening.
I believe that Project Farm used Lard as a lubricant in a lawnmower engine. He found it to be a high pressure lubricant, burns clean and leaves your combustion chambers clean. I find it best for cooking corn tortillas for use in tacos. Good stuff, either way!
And the stoddard solvent is basically what most parts washers use in their cleaning solutions. Can see why a mix of mineral oil, stoddard solvent, and lard has been around for so long. 100 years ago they stumbled on the formula for a self cleaning lubricant long before chemists started with all the detergents and additives in modern oils.
A few years back when I started getting into old motorcycles, I came across one that had been sitting for almost 50 years. An old timer recommended removing the plugs and spraying some of that marvel mystery oil into the cylinders and letting it sit for a couple days before trying to turn it over. If it helped or not I’m not sure, but it did start relatively easy. I’ll always listen to the advice from old school guys 👏
I bought my 1st bike about 30 years ago,a 73 Honda cb500. My mechanic told me to add a little mystery oil to the gas due to the fact that has no longer has lead in it. Couldn't tell you if the mystery oil worked with the gas, but I always used it in that bike
My uncle turned me on to that stuff 30 years ago. I always have some bottles kicking around. I'll add some to my gas every couple, 3,4 tank fills and I add a bottle to my oil a few hundred miles before a change
I’ve been using MM oil for 50 years and I can confirm it works miracles at times. My 08 Volvo T6 had ticking noises and was very concerning so I added it to the oil and the rest to the tank and now no more noises at all
Uncle Tony, I’ve watched your channel for years and being an old school Chevy guy, I never had a lot of respect for MOPAR guys. On rare occasions I ran into some MOPAR guys that did it right and really impressed me with one of those big wedge motors just kill at the drag strip. The only Plymouth I ever had any respect for was that Road Runner when it first came out ( that plain Jane 383 ) with a column shifter and rubber mats, wide oval tires and dog dish hub caps, completely dominate the street races. The night foreman where I worked as a teen had one that he kept meticulous care of. He got called out by a guy with a Chevy ll 327 4 speed. Long story short that Road Runner stood up on the back bumper and the driver of the Chevy ll walked back in with his right leg still shaking! ( remember the leg shake in a close race)? Enough about my respect and disrespect for Mopar. I’m so glad you let these younger guys know about Marvel. I had a customer that bought an old mint condition Studebaker that smoked so bad that oil was literally dripping from the tailpipe. We added one can to the gas tank and one to the crank case and he drove the gas approximately 100 miles up PCH and then back to my shop (west LA) and when he returned to tailpipe was ash grey Oil pressure was at 30 psi @ idle. So when you reached out to explain some of our old school snake oil ❤ I felt some of that old school kinship we once shared back in the day. Thanks for your old school input to a rapidly changing environment.
Used MMO in my '89 Honda. Added a quart to every oil change. Car ran great for 23 years and 336,000 miles. Had to replace the rotting oil pan at about 250k miles. The mechanic was astonished that the inside of the pan looked brand new.
@@christopherconard2831substitute 1 quart MMO for 1 quart oil at oil change time. Follow directions on bottle for fuel system. Keeps your fuel pump(s) running strong. Been using MMO since 1981
I am a retired electrician and I replaced bearings on electric motors from ½” to 8” inside diameter. Also all kinds of rusty bolts. I found that Marvel Mystery Oil is the best penetrating oil you can buy. It is much better than Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Blaster. It is very similar to Kriol but much less expensive.
Thank you for that comment. My Grandfather used to do that and you just reminded me of that smell in his shop which I haven't smelled in any other shop for probably 40 years.
@@grandmasmalibu Yep. Marvel Mystery Oil and Hoppes No. 9 are some of the best scents. When I was a teen in the late 80’s I worked at a Chevron station with a 3 bay shop. Every night we’d mop the place and put a few capfuls of some kind of degreaser in the water. It smelled so awesome in there.
It’s the only additive I use! Add to oil about 500 miles before changing every 6 changes. Add to gas before winter. From rockers to oil pan things stay clean. My 90 spirit has well over 700K on it. Other vehicles 300K to 500K.
You have a 90 Dodge Spirit with 700,000 on it?? If so, incredible! I knew MMO was good, but it's a miracle worker. No offense but Spirits weren't exactly the greatest of all time cars.😊
They used it at the Oil Refinery I worked at 40 years ago for their Ingersol - Rand compressors. I think they produced 1200 HP each. There were eight of them. For the Coker unit I was an operator for it. If my old mind remembers right. It was injected into the each of the valve heads. Those compressors ran 24/7365. They were loud, we had to wear ear muffs. I don't remember how old those compressors were. But they were old. Ran great.
I like MMO as a preventative additive. Modern engines have tons of parts that use small oil passages to actuate timing so if you can keep them clean you have a better chance of your engine lasting longer. I also think it helps to keep the modern low tension piston rings from sticking causing oil consumption.
I use it in my oil about 100 miles before a oil change. My silverado has 305k on it. Never had the famous lifter tick. I also run a bottle thru my gas tank once monthly.......if its snake oil......its good
Back in the day when I was rebuilding a lot of Mazda rotary engines, I would add a full bottle to the engine oil and run it for a good hour before teardown. There was usually a problem getting the side seals loose from the rotor. Those are the equivalent to compression rings. Marvel would loosen the carbon and make the side seals possible to remove. I still keep it around the shop for getting carboned up stuff clean.
I use one to two ounces per gallon in 91 octane non ethanol gasoline for my yard machines. I have a edger with 2 hp Briggs and Stratton flathead that is over 50 years old runs like new.
Lard is a heavy lubricant. Lard was used grease wheels on wagons back in the day. It keeps everything stabilized. It takes a long time to break down. It's also resilient to heat.
➡️ I run a well tuned carburated LA 318 in my summer car about 6,000 miles per season, mostly cruising with occasional wfo blasts thru the gears. After the first 6000 mi on New heads, a layer of crunchy carbon built up on the back face of the intake valves. The Edelbrock heads came off for an unrelated issue so I figured I would clean the valves to new condition. For the next season, I ran 6 oz of Marvel mystery Oil per 15 gallons of fuel (per tank) which is exactly what is recommended. I ran the car 7000 miles with MMO Always in the fuel. I just bought a fiber optic snake cam to get a look at the valves through the carb opening. I'm extremely disappointed that the intake valves all look like HELL again. The only difference is the carbon is soft and mushy looking and Not solid & flakey. I plan on testing some cleaners and I'll certainly make a video out of it for my channel. 🏁
All I can add is when I bought my 71 Charger the fuel gauge didn't work. Wasn't sure what the problem was, by chance I put some Marvels in the gas and the gauge miraculously started working. Once I stopped using Marvels the gauge stopped as well. I put the car in storage for the winter and the following year added Marvels and the gauge came back to life. No BS
Used it for DECADES and all I can say is IT WORKS! Example: I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT-1 riding mower with over 500 hours on it. I have used Marvel since day one and the thing runs like brand new!
Most people who yse MMO are already on top of thier maintenance but since it's gone over $25 a gallon at wally - I don't need it ever again , I used to rub it on my arthritis i will miss the smell.
Was having some valve problems with my 1972 Newport Royal 2 door with a 400 engine. I put this stuff down the carb when running until it choked out. Let it sit overnight. Started it back up the next day & NO more valve problems. Car ran like brand new. Love to have another car like it. They're great. Good explanations on what Mystery Oil is & what it does on different engine parts. We also used it in air tools at the shop.
I had a good success story using MMO. A high mileage slant 6 truck that I bought hadn't seen a lot of love for years and the ignition and carb was pretty shot. After replacing carb, distributor, etc., etc. I started dosing the tank with MMO on fill ups. It took some time to start working, but when it did, it blew carbon out the tailpipe on every start and warm up for a couple of months. Changed to oil again and saw a couple ringlets of carbon in the oil. Maybe carbon from valve seats? I think that the biggest intended purpose of MMO was to help remove lead deposits on plugs and combustion chambers. MMO came out about the same year that Tetraethyl lead started going in gasoline.
I volunteered at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome 20+ years ago. The founder, Cole Palen, used to use MMO to unstick locked up WW1 rotary engines. He would mount the engine on a stand and pour MMO in the cylinders then hang a 5 gallon pale of dirt on one end of the prop. Eventually it would pull through.
I can see that as plausible. Old rotary radials were usually lubed with castor oil. Castor oil is subject to polymerization, it gets sticky, gummy and hard the longer it sits. Dealt with that a lot restoring old model airplane engines. MMO isn't the only product that works for desolving that stuff but it's a good option! Kinda like its wintergreen scent too.
For whatever reason about 2 oz into a fresh oil change on a 2016 CRV approx 15K miles on...MMO quiets down the Cold Start Clatter! I only use it in the Honda not my Vette or 4.3l pickup...
I use it in my grain truck gas tank because it burns like 4 or 5 tanks of gas in a row then it sits for a year. It seems to work well preventing corrosion in the fuel system.
Love Mystery Oil, when I was a little boy in the 60's we had in our neighborhood Mr Kelley. He fixed "business machines" but, he was known to us kids as the bicycle man. How many bikes he put together for us kids I'll never know, but, it was a lot. He always had a pump can of Mystery Oil - first time I learned of it, and the smell brings back great memories. Yes there's a bottle in my trunk now. :)
One of mystery oil's best part is the smell. Both very distinctive, and welcoming! Kinda smells like those little round pink mints, you find in farm co-op stores.
This is THE best video on marvel mystery oil. Thank you! I can attest to small engines. The performance increase is incredible. I had a new chainsaw when I put it in the gas!
They list wintergreen oil on ingredients list as included to make it smell better. I believe that is not completely accurate. Wintergreen oil is also the main ingredient in a product called Rubber Renew. It cleans and renews rubber. Way back when I worked as a slot machine tech we used it to clean the rubber belts in bill acceptors. Worked great to get them working properly again. We could replace the belts but it was labor intensive, involving a lot of little parts and peaces.
With all these additives there are believers and non believers as long as they do no harm. The owners manuals say don't use additives but I use Moto Kote. I change my oil and every other oil change I put in 2 oz per quart. You can actually hear the engine quiet down. The other additive I use is Techron in the gas. I like both of these products, you may like others.
I miss the old metal cans Marvel Mystery Oil was in. 🎉 I used MMO in my 1979 Electra Glide FLH King of the Highway full dresser Shovelhead. Previous owner used it. So I just kept using it. No worries.
I had a huge surging problem with the carburetor on my old riding mower, I dumped Gum out carb cleaner in it repeatedly-nothing, no help. I dumped SeaFoam into it repeatedly and no help whatsoever so ever. As a last resort and desperate. I took an old bottle of MMO that had sat on a shelf for yrs. I poured about 4 ozs into the mower and it started actually running a little better but still surged a lot. Encouraged by the minimal results, I dumped another 4 ozs into the mower, ran it some more and the surging improved a little more. I parked the mower for a week or so and when I started the mower? I got the biggest shock of my life! The surging was completely gone. I can now drop the idle all the way down and it runs so smooth! This stuff did what everything else I tried failed to do. The MMO eliminated the surging completely. I have since restocked my shelf with MMO. This might not be impressive if it weren’t for the fact that this is a 25 yr old Briggs that mows a 5 acre property and gets lots of hrs historically and generally gets 3 oil changes each mowing season due to the work load.
I wanted to give you a big Thank you. I was considering buying a 92 XJ with a very loud knocking noise. The price was right but I was uncertain about the noise. After watching a few of your XJ videos I dove in head first. Turned out to be loose torque converter bolts. A few turns of a wrench and the 142k motor is ready for more. Thank you.
That 4.0 will run forever. I had a 98. Best vehicle I ever owned, minus the stupid rear drum brakes and leaf springs. If you modernize the rear end, you have a forever vehicle.
I as an 80-year-old, have used this marvel mystery oil in oil and gas for over 60 years. all my cars and trucks are between 21 and 19 years old. They all run well and engines and trainees get super-expected mileage for their vintage. Love your command sense approach and down to earth reasonability.
I think I read somewhere that they used Marvel Mystery oil in aircraft engines in World War II. Particularly the radial engines which would eat a lot of oil during flight. They'd eat so much oil that they'd have ullage tanks of oil to transfer to the engine oil tanks as they got low on long flights. Marvel Mystery oil would help keep the upper cylinders lubricated. My guess is that the lard would polymerize as it was burned off in the cylinder and provide a slick coating to the cast iron surface. Sort of like seasoning a cast iron cooking pan. It'd make sense that the base stock of MMO is mineral oil since that is what was used to lubricate piston powered aircraft back then; generally a SAE 50 weight mineral oil. Interestingly the oil system on these aircraft also had a fuel dilution valve to inject AvGas into the oil tank to thin the oil down during cold start, and to also flush the thicker oil out of the engine during shutdown.
Yeah, and I bet it was whale oil used during WW2. Whale oil was used in a lot of mineral lubricants, primarily automatic transmission fluid until the 1972 endangered species act they couldn't get the whale oil anymore. So lard/pig fat was used as a substitute after 72. Which worked but wasn't as good as whale oil. Now of course we have synthetics.
One winter I changed changed the oil on my 5.2 Liter 1996 Dodge Dakota. Upon engine start, it developed a lifter tick that was significant. I took off the valve cover, pushed on the the rockers with a hammer handle while it ran but I couldn't identify which lifter was making the noise. I dumped an entire quart of Marvel into the crankcase and backed the truck out of the garage and closed the door. I left it running for 15 minutes while I cleaned up. The lifter tick was gone and never came back. I left the Marvel in the engine until I changed it the next time.
For motorcycle people: Have had decent sucess using a cocktail of mmo and seafoam to get plugged carbs to clear up, maybe works 25% of the time if you can get the bike to start. Also dribble some mmo on new petcocks so the internal rubber does not tear when you switch from off/on/reserve.
I'm 72. Very familiar with old formulation of gasoline and varnishing in the carb, etc. My dad swore by marvel mystery oil. Had a gallon can of it. Thanks for the history!
I have used many times with no problem. To loosing up valves and clean carbs, I have used automatic transmission fluid. My 68 Mustang sat in a barn for 10 years, I trailered it home, change the battery, coolant, plugs, and points. Used automatic transmission in the new oil and gas. Started up and drive.
Great video. Agree with your comments. I am a hard core Marvel Mystery Oil user/believer. I will however, pass along one anecdote. I had a high mileage 2006 Ford Expedition. Used Mystery Oil in the gas tank for 25,000 miles and the fuel gauge started to get unreliable, then stopped working completely. Had to replace it. I think what happened was the float for the fuel gage which rides on a rheostat on the outside of the pump in the gas tank stopped making electrical contact and sending fuel level to the gauge. I think the Mystery oil siting in the gas tank for a year left deposits over time that caused the electrical continuity between the float arm and the rheostat to deteriorate. Eventually, the poor electrical contact between the two caused the fuel gauge to stop working. Was wondering if anybody else has seen this kind of an issue. Seems it may be peculiar to a Ford and the sending unit design.
When I was 17 in 1973 I worked part time for a small used car lot. One day the owner Drove in with a 1968 olds vista cruiser knocking and smoking . He shut it off ,drained The oil then filled it completely with marvel oil , let it idle all day then drained it put oil back in it and it ran great after that.
I work part-time in an autoparts store and I have and use various various vehicles and equipment from the 30s-80s (including a tractor with a factory Marvel Carburetor ). I think you're right in many ways it is outdated and a bit of a hold over.... but a couple important things it does really well in a pinch... I you know you have gasoline contaminated with fine dirty/ sediment or rust it will settle it out enough to help get you to where you can properly address the problem. It can also help prevent corrosion in the short term from water in fuel better than dry-gas even though it doesn't combine with the water quite as well. But probably the most important thing is it's unlikely to cause any damage if used in gas or oil even if you royally screw up.
I just put 6 ounces in my power steering pump because the steering rack was sticking in the cold mornings near freezing. No more sticking smooth as butter now.
Long ago when I was in A&P school, MMO was mentioned as being "allright" for use in aircraft recips. The instructor was very careful to say "I am not recommending it's use, merely mentioning that it is one of the few additives out there that does no harm". I've never put it in an aircraft engine or fuel system, but it definitely sees use elsewhere.
I have a Stanley Steam Car and the steam cylinder oil that was originally recommended was made by Harris and it was 94 percent Pennsylvania crude and 6 percent lard. The lard was for viscosity so the steam could scour the cylinder of the lubrication. Like treating a cast iron skillet. Great stuff and the only stuff that would work if you didn't want to burn your 'D' valves.
Very interesting video, with just the right amount of history and mechanical info blended together! I always wondered what was in it, and was surprised to learn it contains Stoddard Solvent. I remembered that from my days in a chemical plant we had Stoddard Solvent in the plant, but I think the Lab used it - and we used MMO to free up gummed solenoids and air cylinders on all kinds of equipment. I always loved the smell. We also used "Kano Kroil - the oil that creeps" - maybe you could do a video on that. And "S'OK", another penetrating oil - it smelled like oranges! I believe it used citric acid in an attempt to attack rust. Seemed like it worked in some cases....
This comment section is a good one Tony! The subject matter has brought out the best in this crew that follows your channel. Got a quick story related to petroleum based products and human consumption... If anybody is familiar with the brand Nehi, it is popular in the mountains of eastern Kentucky and therefore i believe its made there. (Ill look it up and see and this when i know for sure). One of the all time favorites of many was the Peach Nehi pop in a clear glass bottle. Dang it tasted so good on a hot summer day in the mountains... Stopping half way up the holler at the old Arizon'y store, open up and reach down in the classic coca-cola 1940s cooler where you slide the top lid and reach down and grab a Nehi Peach bottle...Now Those were the days! Anyway.... Before my time dad said they were working on his old pontiac. On the bumper sat a clear Nehi glass bottle... but it didn't have Peach pop in it! It was full of gasoline. Well, one young feller named Michael Joe, later 6 foot 10 when grown, was only 5 foot something as a young boy, was playing with the rest, come running up and seen that glass bottle thought it was Peach Nehi...he turned it up and took a big drink of straight gasoline!! He got sick as a dog, throwing up and burning...whole family dropped what they were doing and run mike to the hospital. That was no small chore back then as it was a 40 minute ride on a two lane road into town, Whitesburg, where the hospital was. They pumped his stomach and treated him and thankfully the boy didnt get hurt. Remember, this boy grew up to be almost 7 foot tall. And he drove a Pepsi truck for years till retirement, bit everybody there at Pepsi liked him so much they didnt let him retire, they gave him a job in management and advertising! He worked many years doing that gig, flying all over the world and all that stuff! During covid in 2021 we lost this good feller way too soon. Rest in Peace Big Mike!
I had a late 60's Pontiac manual and it recommended soaking stuck lifters in marvel mystery oil. Also had an engine builder recommend squirting some in each cylinder and rotating the engine by hand, backwards first, before starting an engine that has been sitting a long time.
Another additive in MMO is oil of spearmint, also used in Kroil penetrating oil. It's part of what gives MMO that strong scent. It's one of the best penetrants and adds to the oil's use to free stuck parts. I've added MMO to customer's fuel when doing bike services, just to make the engine feel a little better when they pick it up, also have had customers use it to free sticky rings on bikes that got used for too many short trips. It's great stuff and causes no harm. Though they're pretty old, you can still find MMO top cylinder bleeders that attach to the intake, and if you look at old cars, sometimes you see one bolted to the firewall.
I have been to some car shows and have seen the MMO Inverse Oiler mounted to the firewall. There was a line going from the inverse oiler to a area between the bottom of the carburetor and the intake manifold. Since I add 4 ounces of MMO to the gas every time I fill up, I am probably doing about the same thing as the inverse oiler was doing.
I am a former Flight Instructor. I had a Mentor as my Flight Instructor who had been a Captain for Untied Airlines from 1949 to 1975. "Captain Bill". He was also an A&P and an aircraft owner. He used 1qt. in his oil at every oil change on all of his planes. When it came time to overhaul the engines at TBO he would do everything himself except the heads. He would take them into a shop that would do all the valves , lifters etc... He told me every time he went to pick up the heads the shop would ask.. "Hey Bill. What kind of oil are you using?" He'd always say "why" and they would ALWAYS say "Well, your engine looks brand new. there's no wear anywhere. lifters, cam lobes valve seals and we just want to know what you're doing?" "Oh, just 30W " Why didn't he tell them? Because it is illegal to put any additives in an aircraft engine that is not approved by the FAA. I've used it on every vehicle I've owned since 1990 when he told me that. I now drive a 2007 Ford F350 with 206,000 miles on it. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, runs like it did when I drove it off the lot. Note: break in a new engine before using Marvel or it will NEVER break in.
My grandfather was a carpenter building the Portchester factory for MMO. In 1970, I used MMO to clean an engine prior to disassembly. It removed 90% of the carbon in the combustion chamber. I've used it to clean rings and valves while running the engine. In 2000, I had a 1989 minivan with a weak cylinder. Putting MMO in the gas had the engine running well in 4 months. I still use it. In 1970, I saw two cans of STP gell the oil in a Ford Country Squire 390. It had been towing a big trailer. I like that it leaves a thin coating on fuel systems and prevents corrosion. Thanks for the info. Good Luck, Rick
When I do an oil filter change, I’ll drain all the oil out then add approximately 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in the oil fill and let it push any old oil out prior to tightening the oil pan bolt. While initially filling with 5 quarts will add another 4 ounces. Great Product
I have used it mainly for hydraulic lifter issues, clatter, bleed down, sticking etc. Threw it in one time with a nothing to lose type mind set, & be damned if the damn stuff don't work like a charm ! Also Tony, I know that beef tallow & lards are used in certain machining oils. I'm sure you know a good machinist. Ask him (or her) about the lard & he should know. 🤓
I just posted a question about an occasional sticking lifter in my low mileage 74 Charger 318. I have a lot of MMO from my dad; maybe I'll try some in the crankcase.
I was just adding stabilizer to the gas on my mower and snowblower and still had to rebuild carburetors every year. Now I use Marvel Mystery Oil and Non Ethanol gas for the first start, and the last run of both my lawnmower and snowblower (mystery oil also added to oil). Haven't had to rebuild them since.
15 years ago I put a little Marvel in my cylinders and put the plugs back in. It smoked the neighborhood for 15 minutes or more. Afterwards the spark plugs were clean like new, no joke. Ever since then it has become my additive of choice for keeping the cleaning and lubricating properties for combustion chamber, injectors and fuel pump. I usually mix this with Lucas for a deep clean couple times a year. If you keep up with it, it keeps working. Also use it in power steering. It smells nice too!
I been throwing a qrt into my 6.2 ls engine for the past two years about a 1,000 miles before every oil change is due. These engines normally burn a quart of oil every 1-2k miles so I’ve been topping it off with regular oil and then moving to the marvel stuff towards the end. My motor is about to pass 200,000 miles and runs stronger than it did when I got it at 167,000 miles. Besides the efficiency increase I really started doing it to prevent the engine from getting gummed up causing the active fuel management issues. It may be placebo but I feel like mystery oil has helped.
The only Mopar I ever owned UT (69 Satellite w/ a 318) I would put a quart in every oil change. When the car was finally scrapped a dozen yrs later, you could pull the valve covers off and still see the paint markings from the factory on the valve springs and the oil passages were spotless. It gets my 👍!
I used it for years in my airplane, 1/2 oz per gallon of gas, kept the valves clean and it also seemed to help keep the lead from the avgas from fouling the plugs as fast. Also used it in an old Caterpillar d326 generator engine that would stick a lifter as you got towards the oil change time, dumped half a quart in the oil when she started missing and within 10-15 minutes would pick up that cylinder.
I hardly ever used it in my vehicles engines. I do use it quite frequently in fact in my air tools. The smell is amazing and it doesn’t ruin the performance of the air tool like some heavier air tool oils tend to do.
I keep a spray bottle of Marvel as my No.1 go-to as a penetrant as well as a rust-inhibitor (wiped down). Plus, I've unstuck EVERY engine that I've ever attempted to unfreeze when it is put down the cylinders.
At 120,000 miles on my engine I decided to use this in my car. My gas mileage instantly went from 34 - 36 MPG in mixed driving to 37 - 41 MPG in mixed driving. I used it in the oil. I now have 160,000 miles on the engine and it still runs like new, and gives me great fuel mileage. It also accelerates great. It's not tired at all. It's a 2012 Ford Focus with MANUAL transmission. Ready to go another 160,000 miles. I've used Lucas fuel injector cleaner in it a couple times, but I think I will try the MMO in the fuel tank too.
I've used it to free a couple of seized tractor engines. Soaked the cylinders couple of days, it seemed to work. Both engines ran fine without a teardown.
definite work solution to at least try. years ago i had a stuck lifter and it actually worked it loose. amazing stuff to a point! thanks as always for your videos! so glad you had some shorter ones cause lately the longer ones i havent been able to watch due to not enough time! love all your videos! keep rolling. your an inspiration to us old guys who have old vehicles we like working on!!
I have a '56 Tbird with 312 y-block. The forums I read almost always mentions Marvel Mystery Oil as first item to try for all the reasons you discussed. Thanks Tony.
Y-BLOCKS have a particular oil passage issue, prone to varnishing the interior of the motor. There's a RUclips video on the topic . I had a '55 292 y-block. Oil changes on the dot which those motors
Awesome video. One thing I have used MMO for over the years is reducing oil burning on modern day Honda engines but not by adding it to the oil. I have found that if pull out all the spark plugs and pour MMO into the spark plug hole and letting it sit for 24 hours on top of the piston. After that have someone crank the engine with the plugs out while you hold some rags over the spark plug holes so you don't make a mess. But then reinstall the plugs and fire it up. I have had engines that were blowing blue smoke go to not smoking at all. My theory is the MMO sitting on top of the piston will eventually try to make its way past the piston and into the crankcase but it will have to soak the oil rings in MMO before it can get into the crankcase and in the process it breaks down carbon build up on the oil control rings.
I have an 454 that was getting an intermittent lifter tick. It was just one lifter, so I added a bottle and it stayed quiet for about 5,000 miles. I never expected it to fix a bad lifter, but I was surprised that it even helped as much as it did.
I've been a user of Marvel Mystery Oil for years (77 years old) and it's still a mystery to me if it really does work. It does give my a fuzzy soft feeling when I use it and I've never had a problem using it. I was a mechanical engineer and we used stoddard solvent instead of gasoline in our carburetor flow benches (giving my age away again) because it wasn't flammable. What I do wonder is the effect it has on oil viscosity. I've been trying to get Lake Speed Jr. to do an analysis and vid on it.
I used some in the oil of my 81 Jeep CJ7 that was smoking badly after I purchased it. It cleared it up. At the next oil change I left the filter in my metal drain pan overnight because I wanted to cut it up and check for metal in the filter. The next day when I went to go open the filter the oil in the drain pan had crept up the sides of the pan in crazy geometric patterns almost like frost on a window.
@eddymetal84 Smoked blue continuously, it's rings. Expensive repair. Smoked blue only for a few seconds when leaving from a stopped then cleared up the it's valve seals. Inexpensive. Replace what remains with Teflon seals.
@@MrJohnnyDistortionYep. My dad's 66 Coronet was blowing blue under all conditions. He had rebuilt the heads when it burned exhaust valves but never touched the cylinders. The rings gave up on it so when I inherited it 12 years ago I rebuilt the whole engine. Needed a 0.030 overbore to get rid of the ridge carved into the cylinder walls. Now runs like new. Just a stock 273 2bbl with a mild Isky cam. Not a racecar...😎
I did not realize the timing chain is submersed in the oil pan..... I guess the engines I've owned have been different than the one you are referring to.
Sea Foam is both a fuel and oil additive too. I have used it many times in my motorcycles as a fuel stabilizer when they are parked during the winter. This winter I used Sta Bil instead. The Sta Bil was cheaper so I used it.
Seafoam isn’t quite the same as MMO. I wouldn’t trust it as a stabilizer either, nor would I trust sta-bil as a good stabilizer either. It truly is snake oil. Seafoam can do some things MMO does but so does diesel and kerosene at a much cheaper price than seafoam.
@@thatairplaneguy Seafoam is NOT snake oil... it has proven itself just like MMO, I have used it successfully to fix oil consumption on my Tundra and the prolonged hard starting on my wife's Pilot.
It is good stuff... A good oil for air tools... I like to use products similar to this in fuel systems to keep the fine passages clean and it does work well to remove the carbon deposits on intake valves and intake port runners especially on carbureted and TBI engines... Yes the combustion chambers and upper rings can be cleaned & free'd up using this and other similar products in the fuel system...The idea of using it in the engine oil is a good one as I have minimised noise in the valvetrane and cut the blow-by and reduce ring sticking... I have personally been able to extend the overall mileage of my truck engine by using products like these.... My '77 GMC P/U has the original engine it came with and neither the heads or the engine have ever been removed from that truck.. It is a daily driver that I acquired from the original owner back in 2000... Oh, the truck now has accumulated well over 620k miles, and it still runs smoothly... Thanks for this video Tony!!! It is very informative, as you usually produce high quality & accurate programs...
I use MMO as an after run oil in my RC airplanes glow engines. It helps keep the water in the air from rusting the bearing. I've even put a little in the fuel and it can help keep it clean.
@tygibbs5724 Royal Purple Full synthetic you do as your normal oil change, then for the Marvel Mystery Oil you need the RED Bottle, add 1 quart for the engine oil, add 1 quart for the gas tank, perfectly safe for Gas it even explains it on the bottle, Depending on your engine size, if you have a 4cyl engine, pour half the bottle in the gas, if V6 or V8 can take a full bottle but make sure you fill your car/truck up all the way with gas ⛽️ NEVER POUR 2 BOTTLES IN THE SAME TANK, fuel will be too thick There is a Black Marvel Mystery Oil bottle full synthetic, ENGINE OIL ONLY do not pour the black bottle into gas only engine oil I would worry about that later after your engine cleans up a bit, Lastly, if you have a diesel truck 2007 and below, you can use MMO in them, 2008 and above won't work well with the modern diesel engines or might mess up some sensors
I inherited a bottle that's gotta be 30yo, never opened. It definitely has more wintergreen smell than the new stuff, and was a little darker maybe but it worked fine. I suspect they've had to modify the original formula here and there over the years.
Ive always used this. I have a 2003 F150 5.4 and have used MMO for years, in the gas and crankcase. 417,000 miles, runs perfectly, original powertrain. I don't believe that it would still be selling after 100 years if it didn't do some good. At 421,000 still going strong and still using MMO.
I have the same truck & motor.
Knock on wood, no major issues.
We got lucky.
They changed the 5.4 in 2004, and they have a major design flaw
@jupitercyclops6521 yeah the 3 valve 5 4 was a nightmare. They added bs to it and made a fairly simple reliable engine and for fuel economy and emissions standards they made it unreliable. Our 5 4s are the good ones. Judging by how mine runs with almost 420,000 on it, I think it'll make 600,000, maybe more. 🤔
How often do you use it? Thinking I need a new habit.
@SchoolforHackers usually every other oil change. You will probably be adding a little more oil throughout because MMO does thin it down a little and it evaporates faster than oil,( but not bad). Just follow the instructions on the bottle of course and it'll be good. When I use it, I start with 530 oil because 520 thinned down maybe too thin. I actually have started using 0w20 high mileage oil when not using MMO. These modular engines need thin oil at startup to get oil to everything as fast as possible. Penzoil even states on thier 0w20 oil that is supposedly good for 15,000 miles, that is also "compatible with 5w20 oil", so................
What's good to use on valves ticking.?
In 1984 a Buddy of mine acquired an L88 that was locked up from sitting ten years. Three bottles, about 8 oz's per cylinder, down the spark plug holes. After a couple of days The MMO was showing up in the oil pan drain bucket. Once we moved it back and forth about an inch it broke free. Fresh oil and fresh gas was all it took to revive an Awesome Engine.
Some Old Guy Told Us exactly what to do. Old Guys Rule! Works well on Motorcycles too. 😎
1165 GTO with a noisy lifter my next door neighbor in his 80s came over and said I'm working on it
Hip see
A friend of mine restored old cars. He bought a LaSalle that was sitting for years. MMO in the cylinders for a few days. Broke the engine free. He fixed the carb, put in some fresh gas, pushed it down the driveway & it started!
I put some in my gas in my 96 Ford 351 to keep the valves from sticking because it doesn't get driven often. I sat the cap on my cruddy old running board and wiped it off of the aluminum about 15 minutes later. It shined like I'd spent hours buffing them out.
I'm bringing home a 63 Tempest that's literally been in a barn since the '70's. I pulled the plugs and added MMO a couple weeks ago. I'm hoping it works it's magic and will free up the engine.
I was told to do the same on an old GTO. Good advice.
In summary, Marvel Mystery Oil is good at removing gum and varnish, in the fuel system and in the crankcase. It will also soften rubber seals. Good to know!
Thanks for summarizing what UT already “summarized.”
@@vinnyvette6028 Yeah but in case you don’t want to watch the whole video
@@vinnyvette6028 don't be snarky..
And apparently treat rickets. Who knew 🤷🏻♂️
And you know this how, exactly?
It works.. I wasn't always the best about regular oil changes in a 3.8L Ford. Started blowing blue smoke during acceleration. A local shop told me it needed an overhaul or replacement long block..old timer, performance guy looked at it, took it for a rip and recommended I dump a qt of Myst oil in the crankcase (after draining a qt of oil). I drove it hard for week before changing the oil..never blew smoke again! Still going too!
I have found a perfect use for Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank and carb corrosion has always been a problem on motorcycles. The jets are really small and easily clog. If you run an ounce or two of Marvel oil in the gas tank every fill up, the tank never rusts, the carbs never corrode, and the jets never plug. I rode the same ZG1000 Kawasaki for 15 years and never worked on the carbs. Even after winter storage, the bike started and idled smoothly.
This works using any oil that doesn't putrify. Any automotive fluid, any synthetic oil
I bought a 2000 zg1000 back in January, love the bike!
@@mikem5475 Perhaps, but, do they have any lard?
I've had similar results. I use it in all my small engines and run non ethanol gas. I don't have the fuel system problems all my friends and family do.
@@badad0166 the lard is a hold over from the 30s and prior to the chemical soup that abounds in today's world it was a very common lubricant and served as protective film post work for machinist to use mixed kerosene depending on the metal. I have known some old machinist who claimed that its actually as good or better than the modern equivalent in many ways. According to them the main benefits of the modern cutting fluid was smell after it aged a while in the heat of the summer.
Think about what lard does to a cast iron frying pan. It will get into the pores of metal, especially cast iron, but steel as well, and with heat, it will polymerize thus helping to "season", or "seal" the pores of the metal. In theory, I guess it would make the metals somewhat "non-stick", and possibly help against varnish and carbon deposit build up.
I was a skeptic for years - until as a last gasp effort years ago, I tried it on a 318 magnum in a Dodge pickup
that had been overheated to the point of clacking valvetrain. I repaired the cooling issues, then...
To my amazement, once I dumped a bottle in the engine and just let it sit and idle, all the clattering eventually
went away and the engine ran like new!
I'll never doubt it again - properly used, the stuff is not snake oil.
- Ed on the Ridge
It has helped unstick lifters as well
I had a C6 with stuck shift valves in the valve body. As a hail Mary before pulling the pan and cleaning the valve body ( which I absolutely did not want to do ) I dumped a bottle in. After about an hour of driving around the block, things freed up and started shifting. I'm sure the neighbors thought I was nuts.
I Immediately changed the fluid, as I had tried this a couple years earlier on a high mileage trans, and all those old, hard seals and o-rings turned to mush.
This time I got away with it.
@@JFSmith-nb8hf When I was a mechanic in the Great war (WW1) we used to call those thingies "radial" engines.
Why is marvel oil and dodge just like peas and carrots 😂 I had the same truck but had a bad misfire and dump a bottle in the tank and the engine and she was great I'll die on this shit being the secret sauce😂
Bananas do that too! lol
I bought a Craftsman 1 horse electric air compressor in 1980. I ran it for a month or so and drained the oil from the pump. I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the pump and it has had NO other oil in it ever since. I have changed the belt several times and the bearings in the motor once but it still pumps up as fast as ever. and as @chuckwalker says it smells great! I ran it every day framing houses for at least 20 years running 2 nail guns. 43 years old now!
That sounds like a great idea. Especially in the winter when it gets cold in my shop. Some mornings the oil is so thick it trips my breaker when the pump kicks on. I’m gonna give it a shot
@@enginebae3471 Works great to winterize oil and allow it to pump at much lower temps! I have used it for decades to do so!
A few years ago I started putting a little into my morning coffee and I find I am much more regular now throughout the day. Seriously though, I add it to both gas and oil and I've noticed a net positive performance difference when doing so.
Must be the wintergreen oil that's in it, as its purpose was to make it smell better as i guess without it,its pretty nasty.
It's all those little mechanics inside you pushing all that shit around
I soak my cigarettes in it so they will stay lit. Also gives them a clove flavor. Just kidding...don't do this...ever.
@@Freedomquest08 haha yeah I've gotten a splash or spot of it on a ciggy before, tastes like 💩😀
Any oil for that matter
😂
I've used it for 20 some years! I put a quart in, every oil change.
I clean my guns with it....
It smells so good, I could almost drink the stuff!
But I like it a lot! Yes, it acts as a solvent too.
100 years of sales usually means it works.
Or on shelves to sell at local store. Petroleum is all it is
Yes it is 100% petroleum based. For oil and fuel additives, that’s what you want.
not necessarily..... "LOCK EASE" has been around since I was a kid.... WORST stuff you can put in a lock, aside from powdered graphite.
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 Read the fine print on the lock ease label and you'll learn how you've used it wrong. .
Bro not even 😂😂
I have used it in 2 engines with good results. The first is a Nissan Infinity 3.5 liter V6. The variable cam timing relies on electrical as well as hydraulics to function. The engine was throwing the code for the cam timing sensor. The sensor was testing out ok. The small fluid tunnels in the block that help with the mechanics of the cave timing became partially obstructed by varnish build up. Marvel Mystery oil in the crank case for one oil change interval cleaned that up and the engine no longer throws cam timing codes. The second is on my 66 El Camino 396 had a sticky hydraulic lifter on the #5 cylinder intake valve. Running Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case for 500 miles cleaned up the varnish in the lifter allowing the oil to move freely in and out allowing the lifter to function properly and silencing the pronounced lifter tick noise that was audible at over 2500 rpm. It has many more uses like cleaning up carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on valves. It’s always worth a try. Many a mechanic has told me it never hurt any engine that they know of.
I have a unique use for MMO. Couple years ago I was working on a Jag 3.0 liter supercharged engine. Had to remove the super charger to replace some coolant pipes and also had to remove the oil filter assembly for a simple gasket replacement. While removing "the simple" oil filter assembly, a torx bit fell off my driver and fell into the oil galleys. 2 holes it could have fallen into. One would have been ok, as it would just push the bit into the filter, but the other would be certain catastrophe. So had to find it. Got out my boroscope to find it, but all the black oil in various puddles made it impossible find. I used MMO to displace that old, dark oil, found the G damn bit and after a couple hours with a magnet, finally got that thing out. It was a nightmare because if I didn't get it out, i was going to have to pull the engine and flip it on an engine stand. Tons of work. MMO saved me from an aweful fate.
That’s the kind of stuff that makes me happy to pay mechanics. Well not happy but they earn their money usually.
Those little mistakes that could turn into nightmares add up when you’re a doofus like me.
Thanks Tony for a Common Sense commentary. As a retired mechanic that keeps his vehicles until they are "old enough to vote" I have always used this in my fuel, For all the reasons you stated. Back in the old days Fuel was really crappy and unpredictable. I always said I paid off my first Mortgage rebuilding carburators. And it was due to poor Quality fuel. I advised my customers to use MMO as I did after I fixed their cars. Fast forward to now IMHO Ethanol is a terrible additive to fuel. I know this triggers the Ethanol industry. But in it of itself it is Corrosive to fuel componants and does not provide Lubricity and it is worse when moisture comes into play. With GDI this becomes an even bigger and more expensive issue.I have always used MMO at 4oz. per 10 Gallons of fuel in older vehicles and in my newer ones. Very cheap preventive maintenance. Keep on Wrenchin.
@ stevecampbell7620-- I enjoyed reading your comment. I also usually keep my vehicles until they are "old enough to vote." My current daily driver is a 2002 Lincoln Town Car that I bought in 2007, that now has 124k miles on it.
For the past 8 years, I have added 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil for every 10 gallons of gas at every fill up. The car is still running great, and I plan on keeping it many more years. Hopefully the MMO is helping to combat the negative effects of the ethanol that is unfortunately added to the gas.
I have had some people tell me that MMO was good for vehicles with carburetors, but not good for modern vehicles. I disagree with them. Are there any types of vehicles that you would not add MMO to the gas?
@@franknew9001 Don't want to argue, but he even says in the video that modern oils and fuels contain better versions of what is in MMO. Mineral oil is a petroleum distillate. Lard is obviously a rendered organic oil. The stoddard solvent is basically what most parts washers use as their cleaning fluid. So MMO is a basic oil mix with a large percentage of detergent in it. I would say if you have a modern car (fuel injected), and take care of it with modern fuels and oils, you will be getting all of the benefits of the modern detergents and additives that are in today's oils and gas. I totally agree though if you have an old carbureted engine, adding some to your fuel is likely quite helpful to properly lube the components of the fuel system like a mechanical fuel pump and the moving parts in the carb as well as keeping it cleaner with the higher amount of detergent thanks to the stoddard solvent. Adding some to an old engine that burns oil will likely help also since the stoddard solvent would help to literally clean components that the MMO is bypassing like rings and valves and preventing buildup in the heads.
Although ethanol can be more corrosive to some components (including rubber seals and o-rings), it actually INCREASES lubricity, not decreases. If fact, in the presence of water, the higher lubricity effect actually goes up. You can see the SAE study 2017-01-2297 which tested it. Knowing this, most modern engines and fuel systems use rings and seals which aren't affected by ethanol. Because it can hold some water, it can be more corrosive, but now most engine blocks are aluminum and most fuel tanks and lines are plastic so that solves that problem. Ethanol is more difficult to atomize, but modern fuel injectors account for that. I think most problems come from the "between stage" of carbureted engines and modern ones designed for fuel containing ethanol. You had about 20-30 years of car builders continuing to use components that weren't designed for use with ethanol containing fuel and that contained metal that could corrode and o-rings that could break down. Not to mention poor injector performance, incorrect compression ratios, and bad air/fuel mixes that tended to rob power from engines. That's not really a problem with the fuel but of the design of the components.
From 2005 and on, the production of ethanol has really exploded but it still took car manufactures a while to adopt new designs. By 2011, car makers said that all of their vehicles were able to run on 10% ethanol without issues but I would surmise some components still hadn't been redesigned to fully take ethanol into account. In fact, new GDI engines are designed specifically to run with 10% ethanol since has lower CO and particle number emissions and, at those pressures, alcohol fuels have a greater combustion efficiency. According to MIT, can increase efficiency of gas only combustion by 30% while reducing emissions 25% allowing for a smaller engine with the same performance while using a higher compression ratio. That's why car companies are investing so heavily in GDI right now. The estimated increase in vehicle cost is $600 but with a fuel savings payback in less than 2 years while making it easier to meet emissions standards.
@@pirtatejoe If that's the case then why is all EPA automobile testing done with non-ethanol gasoline? And if ethanol added fuel is more efficient with a significantly better combustion rate than gas only then why do new car buyers consistently achieve worse gas mileage than the manufacturer sticker stated miles per gallon achieved during EPA tests. Yes, those tests are done in laboratories under perfect conditions, but individual driving habits only account for 2-5% variance in real world attained gas mileage. Surely the gas mileage achieved by buyers would surpass manufacturer gas mileage lab results by a significant amount once buyers started using 10% ethanol added gasoline in the real world, if ethanol improved combustion by 30%, even considering the normal 2-5% variance in gas mileage based on individual driving habits. And if E-10 improved combustion by 30% then that would mean E- 85 would have to improve combustion by 255%. It just doesn't add up, because it isn't true. Every real world fuel burn test I have seen done shows that ethanol added fuel burns dirtier and is less volatile, which would actually equate to worse combustion efficiency, less generated power and worse fuel economy. Ethanol added fuel has been a scam by the environmental community since day one. We're much better off putting the corn on our dinner tables than in our gas tanks. Alkylate gasoline, on the other hand, is extremely clean burning, more stable, efficient, with a significantly shelf life (2 years unsealed vs 6 weeks for standard ethanol and non-ethanol gas) and may be the future for cars, but as of now I've only seen it available pre-packaged in small containers for small engine use at the insane cost of about $35.00 per gallon. It would have to be much more widely mass produced and made available for less than a 10th of that price for it to be feasible for automobile use.
A fellow I used to go to training at his facility bought thousands of fuel injectors in the 80's and 90's tested, cleaned set matched them and resold. He found that "Marvel Mystery oil" worked hands down better than anything else as a preservative in Injectors on the shelf.
My 94 -1/2 year old Father still swears by this stuff & turned me into a believer at age 16 when I got my first car , a used ‘65 Corvair Monza 2 dr with 4 speed/110hp engine . I’m now 63-1/2 & use it in all my vehicles just as he taught me . Does indeed do what it promises. 😎👍
Had the pleasure of owning a few Monza coupes, and one ragtop, all late bodies. Most memorable was in Santa Fe, buying Vivian Vance's old beige, '66 Monza; and later using her engine to complete a purple, '66 'Vert. She played Ethyl on I Love Lucy, and lived in Santa Fe for many years. Who knew Ethyl drove Corvairs? I didn't, until I saw her name on the very old title.
I've been a small engine and marine mechanic for 50 years. The majority of my work has been on 2-stroke engines, both air and water cooled. MMO is absolutely amazing in its ability to break loose poorly-stored outboards and snowmobiles. I've pulled the plug(s) on a stuck snow-sled engine and poured in the MMO, and then reached down to grab the pull cord, and it rolls over. I just saved a Mercruiser 3.0L stern drive engine that sat all summer full of water. I drained the engine base, blew out the plug holes, added the MMO and walked away for two weeks. I then put a breaker bar on the crank snout, broke it loose, and had it running by that evening.
I believe that Project Farm used Lard as a lubricant in a lawnmower engine. He found it to be a high pressure lubricant, burns clean and leaves your combustion chambers clean. I find it best for cooking corn tortillas for use in tacos. Good stuff, either way!
Hmmm. I don't have any lard, but I do have Marvel mystery oil. I'll have to use it to cook some tortillas soon.
Crisco, a vegetable shortening, was first used to lubricate impeller shaft(s) for submarines.
@@gpilsitz1783Seed oils were originally industrial lubricants. Now we eat them. I personally do my best to minimize their intake.
The best pie crusts use lard too!
And the stoddard solvent is basically what most parts washers use in their cleaning solutions. Can see why a mix of mineral oil, stoddard solvent, and lard has been around for so long. 100 years ago they stumbled on the formula for a self cleaning lubricant long before chemists started with all the detergents and additives in modern oils.
A few years back when I started getting into old motorcycles, I came across one that had been sitting for almost 50 years. An old timer recommended removing the plugs and spraying some of that marvel mystery oil into the cylinders and letting it sit for a couple days before trying to turn it over. If it helped or not I’m not sure, but it did start relatively easy. I’ll always listen to the advice from old school guys 👏
ATF does the same thing....
I bought my 1st bike about 30 years ago,a 73 Honda cb500. My mechanic told me to add a little mystery oil to the gas due to the fact that has no longer has lead in it. Couldn't tell you if the mystery oil worked with the gas, but I always used it in that bike
What's too old for a motorcycle...I am 70 and have a dirt bike ,a naked bike and sport bike !
@@Flies2FLL yep I used ATF to free up the stuck valve train on my 69 cb160. Poured it in the cylinder and valve adjustment holes.
@@marktarascio4766 I've ridden with guys in their 70s on dirt bikes and they're often faster or just as fast as myself at after their age.
One Quart of Marvel Mystery Oil added to my 5.4 Ford removed All Ticks and the Engine is now running more Smoothly and Quietly
My uncle turned me on to that stuff 30 years ago. I always have some bottles kicking around. I'll add some to my gas every couple, 3,4 tank fills and I add a bottle to my oil a few hundred miles before a change
I have used MMO for lots of things for many, many years. Thanks UTG!
I’ve been using MM oil for 50 years and I can confirm it works miracles at times. My 08 Volvo T6 had ticking noises and was very concerning so I added it to the oil and the rest to the tank and now no more noises at all
GOD BLESS
How much did you put in the engine oil. Volvo fan
@@jameswalsh7204My 3.2 volvo (xc70) holds 8qts.. i often put in at least a quart. Stopped my oil consumption full stop 👍
Uncle Tony, I’ve watched your channel for years and being an old school Chevy guy, I never had a lot of respect for MOPAR guys.
On rare occasions I ran into some MOPAR guys that did it right and really impressed me with one of those big wedge motors just kill at the drag strip.
The only Plymouth I ever had any respect for was that Road Runner when it first came out ( that plain Jane 383 ) with a column shifter and rubber mats, wide oval tires and dog dish hub caps, completely dominate the street races.
The night foreman where I worked as a teen had one that he kept meticulous care of.
He got called out by a guy with a Chevy ll 327 4 speed.
Long story short that Road Runner stood up on the back bumper and the driver of the Chevy ll walked back in with his right leg still shaking! ( remember the leg shake in a close race)?
Enough about my respect and disrespect for Mopar.
I’m so glad you let these younger guys know about Marvel.
I had a customer that bought an old mint condition Studebaker that smoked so bad that oil was literally dripping from the tailpipe.
We added one can to the gas tank and one to the crank case and he drove the gas approximately 100 miles up PCH and then back to my shop (west LA) and when he returned to tailpipe was ash grey Oil pressure was at 30 psi @ idle.
So when you reached out to explain some of our old school snake oil ❤ I felt some of that old school kinship we once shared back in the day.
Thanks for your old school input to a rapidly changing environment.
Used MMO in my '89 Honda. Added a quart to every oil change. Car ran great for 23 years and 336,000 miles. Had to replace the rotting oil pan at about 250k miles. The mechanic was astonished that the inside of the pan looked brand new.
Do you use it as an additive (with new oil), or flush (before you change the oil)?
I run a QT with 5 QT of oil every time now
@@christopherconard2831substitute 1 quart MMO for 1 quart oil at oil change time. Follow directions on bottle for fuel system. Keeps your fuel pump(s) running strong. Been using MMO since 1981
Lots of honda engines will do that with poor care, lol
@@Mac-mu9csExactly
I am a retired electrician and I replaced bearings on electric motors from ½” to 8” inside diameter. Also all kinds of rusty bolts. I found that Marvel Mystery Oil is the best penetrating oil you can buy. It is much better than Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Blaster. It is very similar to Kriol but much less expensive.
This stuff in your air tools is basically an air freshener for the shop.
Thank you for that comment. My Grandfather used to do that and you just reminded me of that smell in his shop which I haven't smelled in any other shop for probably 40 years.
@@grandmasmalibu Yep. Marvel Mystery Oil and Hoppes No. 9 are some of the best scents. When I was a teen in the late 80’s I worked at a Chevron station with a 3 bay shop. Every night we’d mop the place and put a few capfuls of some kind of degreaser in the water. It smelled so awesome in there.
@@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance shit mmo would make a nice smelling gun oil
@@juliogonzo2718 If you mean pewpew guns, it's not recommended. it will ruin the finish and wreck wood furniture. Balistol is best for those.
Just squirt bacon grease into shop tools , everyone will get hungry
The only mystery to me is the amount of knowledge crammed in Tony's head. He should be checked for a USB port so we could download his data library.
Show some respect ... he's *Uncle* Tony 😂
Knowledge is one the best things we can pass on.
None of us will live on this earth forever, but our knowledge can, if we share it.
I agree. Elon Musk is working on that
It’s the only additive I use! Add to oil about 500 miles before changing every 6 changes. Add to gas before winter. From rockers to oil pan things stay clean. My 90 spirit has well over 700K on it. Other vehicles 300K to 500K.
You have a 90 Dodge Spirit with 700,000 on it?? If so, incredible! I knew MMO was good, but it's a miracle worker. No offense but Spirits weren't exactly the greatest of all time cars.😊
They used it at the Oil Refinery I worked at 40 years ago for their Ingersol - Rand compressors. I think they produced 1200 HP each. There were eight of them. For the Coker unit I was an operator for it. If my old mind remembers right. It was injected into the each of the valve heads. Those compressors ran 24/7365. They were loud, we had to wear ear muffs. I don't remember how old those compressors were. But they were old. Ran great.
I didn't know air compressors produced horsepower..😊
I always add a little to my oil about 500 miles before an oil change and I regularly use it in my gasoline.
I like MMO as a preventative additive. Modern engines have tons of parts that use small oil passages to actuate timing so if you can keep them clean you have a better chance of your engine lasting longer. I also think it helps to keep the modern low tension piston rings from sticking causing oil consumption.
A company that used to repair mechanical adding machines would soak the mechanisms in marvel to dissolve grime and lubricate parts.
I use it in my oil about 100 miles before a oil change. My silverado has 305k on it. Never had the famous lifter tick. I also run a bottle thru my gas tank once monthly.......if its snake oil......its good
Back in the day when I was rebuilding a lot of Mazda rotary engines, I would add a full bottle to the engine oil and run it for a good hour before teardown. There was usually a problem getting the side seals loose from the rotor. Those are the equivalent to compression rings. Marvel would loosen the carbon and make the side seals possible to remove. I still keep it around the shop for getting carboned up stuff clean.
I use one to two ounces per gallon in 91 octane non ethanol gasoline for my yard machines. I have a edger with 2 hp Briggs and Stratton flathead that is over 50 years old runs like new.
Lard is a heavy lubricant. Lard was used grease wheels on wagons back in the day. It keeps everything stabilized. It takes a long time to break down. It's also resilient to heat.
I work for a major airline and we use chicken fat in our sunnen hone for parts of the landing gears.
In a Monty Python sketch, Terry Jones was rubbing a little lard on the cats boil.
Lard also makes fried chicken taste like really good chicken
It's also good at keeping pigs warm on cold nights....
@@williamstamper442try frying a turkey in it
➡️ I run a well tuned carburated LA 318 in my summer car about 6,000 miles per season, mostly cruising with occasional wfo blasts thru the gears. After the first 6000 mi on New heads, a layer of crunchy carbon built up on the back face of the intake valves. The Edelbrock heads came off for an unrelated issue so I figured I would clean the valves to new condition.
For the next season, I ran 6 oz of Marvel mystery Oil per 15 gallons of fuel (per tank) which is exactly what is recommended. I ran the car 7000 miles with MMO Always in the fuel. I just bought a fiber optic snake cam to get a look at the valves through the carb opening. I'm extremely disappointed that the intake valves all look like HELL again. The only difference is the carbon is soft and mushy looking and Not solid & flakey. I plan on testing some cleaners and I'll certainly make a video out of it for my channel. 🏁
All I can add is when I bought my 71 Charger the fuel gauge didn't work. Wasn't sure what the problem was, by chance I put some Marvels in the gas and the gauge miraculously started working. Once I stopped using Marvels the gauge stopped as well. I put the car in storage for the winter and the following year added Marvels and the gauge came back to life. No BS
Gonna try that in my 83 scottsdale tank. Gauge is stuck for 10 years.
Used it last week and signal lights started working, but now my rear right window regulator quit, and my oil pressure sending unit is intermittent:)
@@douglashewitt5064 I dumped a bunch of it in the gas and it didn't take to long for my gauge to come back. I don't think it can hurt.
@@Guns_N_Gears It may be a mystery, but I don't see it doing much for your electrical system ;)
@@archieguitarz4700 lol
Used it for DECADES and all I can say is IT WORKS!
Example: I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT-1 riding mower with over 500 hours on it. I have used Marvel since day one and the thing runs like brand new!
Sea Foam is the other in engine or through fuel system treatment. I used Mystery oil in my 52 chevy 235ci engine to unstick it. It worked.
Most people who yse MMO are already on top of thier maintenance but since it's gone over $25 a gallon at wally - I don't need it ever again , I used to rub it on my arthritis i will miss the smell.
Was having some valve problems with my 1972 Newport Royal 2 door with a 400 engine. I put this stuff down the carb when running until it choked out. Let it sit overnight. Started it back up the next day & NO more valve problems. Car ran like brand new. Love to have another car like it. They're great. Good explanations on what Mystery Oil is & what it does on different engine parts. We also used it in air tools at the shop.
I had a good success story using MMO. A high mileage slant 6 truck that I bought hadn't seen a lot of love for years and the ignition and carb was pretty shot. After replacing carb, distributor, etc., etc. I started dosing the tank with MMO on fill ups. It took some time to start working, but when it did, it blew carbon out the tailpipe on every start and warm up for a couple of months. Changed to oil again and saw a couple ringlets of carbon in the oil. Maybe carbon from valve seats? I think that the biggest intended purpose of MMO was to help remove lead deposits on plugs and combustion chambers. MMO came out about the same year that Tetraethyl lead started going in gasoline.
I volunteered at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome 20+ years ago. The founder, Cole Palen, used to use MMO to unstick locked up WW1 rotary engines. He would mount the engine on a stand and pour MMO in the cylinders then hang a 5 gallon pale of dirt on one end of the prop. Eventually it would pull through.
Good to see a fellow upstate new Yorker on here
@@undergroundironentertainment Yep. Been in VA last 20 years though. Born and raised in Columbia County
How much did that 5lb pail of dirt weigh?
Just a coupl'a drops on yer tooth brush L' make yer coffee stained Chicklets bright white 😂
I can see that as plausible. Old rotary radials were usually lubed with castor oil. Castor oil is subject to polymerization, it gets sticky, gummy and hard the longer it sits. Dealt with that a lot restoring old model airplane engines. MMO isn't the only product that works for desolving that stuff but it's a good option! Kinda like its wintergreen scent too.
For whatever reason about 2 oz into a fresh oil change on a 2016 CRV approx 15K miles on...MMO quiets down the Cold Start Clatter! I only use it in the Honda not my Vette or 4.3l pickup...
I put some in my 04 LS6. I saw no change at all other than the oil got darker quicker.
I use it in my grain truck gas tank because it burns like 4 or 5 tanks of gas in a row then it sits for a year. It seems to work well preventing corrosion in the fuel system.
Love Mystery Oil, when I was a little boy in the 60's we had in our neighborhood Mr Kelley. He fixed "business machines" but, he was known to us kids as the bicycle man. How many bikes he put together for us kids I'll never know, but, it was a lot. He always had a pump can of Mystery Oil - first time I learned of it, and the smell brings back great memories. Yes there's a bottle in my trunk now. :)
One of mystery oil's best part is the smell. Both very distinctive, and welcoming! Kinda smells like those little round pink mints, you find in farm co-op stores.
Peppermint oil. It’s a very good solvent in small doses. In large amounts, it’ll melt rubber and eat paint.
@@5roundsrapid263Close, wintergreen oil.
wintergreen
This is THE best video on marvel mystery oil. Thank you!
I can attest to small engines. The performance increase is incredible. I had a new chainsaw when I put it in the gas!
They list wintergreen oil on ingredients list as included to make it smell better. I believe that is not completely accurate. Wintergreen oil is also the main ingredient in a product called Rubber Renew. It cleans and renews rubber. Way back when I worked as a slot machine tech we used it to clean the rubber belts in bill acceptors. Worked great to get them working properly again. We could replace the belts but it was labor intensive, involving a lot of little parts and peaces.
With all these additives there are believers and non believers as long as they do no harm. The owners manuals say don't use additives but I use Moto Kote. I change my oil and every other oil change I put in 2 oz per quart. You can actually hear the engine quiet down. The other additive I use is Techron in the gas. I like both of these products, you may like others.
I miss the old metal cans Marvel Mystery Oil was in. 🎉
I used MMO in my 1979 Electra Glide FLH King of the Highway full dresser Shovelhead.
Previous owner used it.
So I just kept using it.
No worries.
I still have my can of air oil with the pour tip.
Somehow , even 50 years later, anything else just feels wrong…
I had a huge surging problem with the carburetor on my old riding mower, I dumped Gum out carb cleaner in it repeatedly-nothing, no help. I dumped SeaFoam into it repeatedly and no help whatsoever so ever. As a last resort and desperate. I took an old bottle of MMO that had sat on a shelf for yrs. I poured about 4 ozs into the mower and it started actually running a little better but still surged a lot. Encouraged by the minimal results, I dumped another 4 ozs into the mower, ran it some more and the surging improved a little more. I parked the mower for a week or so and when I started the mower? I got the biggest shock of my life! The surging was completely gone. I can now drop the idle all the way down and it runs so smooth! This stuff did what everything else I tried failed to do. The MMO eliminated the surging completely. I have since restocked my shelf with MMO. This might not be impressive if it weren’t for the fact that this is a 25 yr old Briggs that mows a 5 acre property and gets lots of hrs historically and generally gets 3 oil changes each mowing season due to the work load.
I wanted to give you a big Thank you. I was considering buying a 92 XJ with a very loud knocking noise. The price was right but I was uncertain about the noise. After watching a few of your XJ videos I dove in head first. Turned out to be loose torque converter bolts. A few turns of a wrench and the 142k motor is ready for more. Thank you.
That 4.0 will run forever. I had a 98. Best vehicle I ever owned, minus the stupid rear drum brakes and leaf springs. If you modernize the rear end, you have a forever vehicle.
I as an 80-year-old, have used this marvel mystery oil in oil and gas for over 60 years. all my cars and trucks are between 21 and 19 years old. They all run well and engines and trainees get super-expected mileage for their vintage. Love your command sense approach and down to earth reasonability.
I think I read somewhere that they used Marvel Mystery oil in aircraft engines in World War II. Particularly the radial engines which would eat a lot of oil during flight. They'd eat so much oil that they'd have ullage tanks of oil to transfer to the engine oil tanks as they got low on long flights. Marvel Mystery oil would help keep the upper cylinders lubricated. My guess is that the lard would polymerize as it was burned off in the cylinder and provide a slick coating to the cast iron surface. Sort of like seasoning a cast iron cooking pan. It'd make sense that the base stock of MMO is mineral oil since that is what was used to lubricate piston powered aircraft back then; generally a SAE 50 weight mineral oil. Interestingly the oil system on these aircraft also had a fuel dilution valve to inject AvGas into the oil tank to thin the oil down during cold start, and to also flush the thicker oil out of the engine during shutdown.
MMO has a small amount of an anti wear additive in it also.
Yeah, and I bet it was whale oil used during WW2. Whale oil was used in a lot of mineral lubricants, primarily automatic transmission fluid until the 1972 endangered species act they couldn't get the whale oil anymore. So lard/pig fat was used as a substitute after 72. Which worked but wasn't as good as whale oil. Now of course we have synthetics.
One winter I changed changed the oil on my 5.2 Liter 1996 Dodge Dakota. Upon engine start, it developed a lifter tick that was significant. I took off the valve cover, pushed on the the rockers with a hammer handle while it ran but I couldn't identify which lifter was making the noise. I dumped an entire quart of Marvel into the crankcase and backed the truck out of the garage and closed the door. I left it running for 15 minutes while I cleaned up. The lifter tick was gone and never came back. I left the Marvel in the engine until I changed it the next time.
For motorcycle people: Have had decent sucess using a cocktail of mmo and seafoam to get plugged carbs to clear up, maybe works 25% of the time if you can get the bike to start. Also dribble some mmo on new petcocks so the internal rubber does not tear when you switch from off/on/reserve.
I'm 72. Very familiar with old formulation of gasoline and varnishing in the carb, etc. My dad swore by marvel mystery oil. Had a gallon can of it. Thanks for the history!
I have used many times with no problem. To loosing up valves and clean carbs, I have used automatic transmission fluid. My 68 Mustang sat in a barn for 10 years, I trailered it home, change the battery, coolant, plugs, and points. Used automatic transmission in the new oil and gas. Started up and drive.
Great video. Agree with your comments. I am a hard core Marvel Mystery Oil user/believer. I will however, pass along one anecdote. I had a high mileage 2006 Ford Expedition. Used Mystery Oil in the gas tank for 25,000 miles and the fuel gauge started to get unreliable, then stopped working completely. Had to replace it. I think what happened was the float for the fuel gage which rides on a rheostat on the outside of the pump in the gas tank stopped making electrical contact and sending fuel level to the gauge. I think the Mystery oil siting in the gas tank for a year left deposits over time that caused the electrical continuity between the float arm and the rheostat to deteriorate. Eventually, the poor electrical contact between the two caused the fuel gauge to stop working. Was wondering if anybody else has seen this kind of an issue. Seems it may be peculiar to a Ford and the sending unit design.
When I was 17 in 1973 I worked part time for a small used car lot. One day the owner
Drove in with a 1968 olds vista cruiser knocking and smoking . He shut it off ,drained
The oil then filled it completely with marvel oil , let it idle all day then drained it put oil back in it and it ran great after that.
That's a old mechanic trick
Did he turn the odometer back too
I work part-time in an autoparts store and I have and use various various vehicles and equipment from the 30s-80s (including a tractor with a factory Marvel Carburetor ). I think you're right in many ways it is outdated and a bit of a hold over.... but a couple important things it does really well in a pinch... I you know you have gasoline contaminated with fine dirty/ sediment or rust it will settle it out enough to help get you to where you can properly address the problem. It can also help prevent corrosion in the short term from water in fuel better than dry-gas even though it doesn't combine with the water quite as well. But probably the most important thing is it's unlikely to cause any damage if used in gas or oil even if you royally screw up.
I just put 6 ounces in my power steering pump because the steering rack was sticking in the cold mornings near freezing. No more sticking smooth as butter now.
Lard. 🤤
Long ago when I was in A&P school, MMO was mentioned as being "allright" for use in aircraft recips. The instructor was very careful to say "I am not recommending it's use, merely mentioning that it is one of the few additives out there that does no harm".
I've never put it in an aircraft engine or fuel system, but it definitely sees use elsewhere.
I have a Stanley Steam Car and the steam cylinder oil that was originally recommended was made by Harris and it was 94 percent Pennsylvania crude and 6 percent lard. The lard was for viscosity so the steam could scour the cylinder of the lubrication. Like treating a cast iron skillet. Great stuff and the only stuff that would work if you didn't want to burn your 'D' valves.
Very interesting video, with just the right amount of history and mechanical info blended together! I always wondered what was in it, and was surprised to learn it contains Stoddard Solvent. I remembered that from my days in a chemical plant we had Stoddard Solvent in the plant, but I think the Lab used it - and we used MMO to free up gummed solenoids and air cylinders on all kinds of equipment. I always loved the smell. We also used "Kano Kroil - the oil that creeps" - maybe you could do a video on that. And "S'OK", another penetrating oil - it smelled like oranges! I believe it used citric acid in an attempt to attack rust. Seemed like it worked in some cases....
This comment section is a good one Tony!
The subject matter has brought out the best in this crew that follows your channel.
Got a quick story related to petroleum based products and human consumption...
If anybody is familiar with the brand Nehi, it is popular in the mountains of eastern Kentucky and therefore i believe its made there. (Ill look it up and see and this when i know for sure). One of the all time favorites of many was the Peach Nehi pop in a clear glass bottle.
Dang it tasted so good on a hot summer day in the mountains...
Stopping half way up the holler at the old Arizon'y store, open up and reach down in the classic coca-cola 1940s cooler where you slide the top lid and reach down and grab a Nehi Peach bottle...Now Those were the days!
Anyway....
Before my time dad said they were working on his old pontiac. On the bumper sat a clear Nehi glass bottle... but it didn't have Peach pop in it! It was full of gasoline. Well, one young feller named Michael Joe, later 6 foot 10 when grown, was only 5 foot something as a young boy, was playing with the rest, come running up and seen that glass bottle thought it was Peach Nehi...he turned it up and took a big drink of straight gasoline!!
He got sick as a dog, throwing up and burning...whole family dropped what they were doing and run mike to the hospital. That was no small chore back then as it was a 40 minute ride on a two lane road into town, Whitesburg, where the hospital was. They pumped his stomach and treated him and thankfully the boy didnt get hurt.
Remember, this boy grew up to be almost 7 foot tall. And he drove a Pepsi truck for years till retirement, bit everybody there at Pepsi liked him so much they didnt let him retire, they gave him a job in management and advertising! He worked many years doing that gig, flying all over the world and all that stuff!
During covid in 2021 we lost this good feller way too soon.
Rest in Peace Big Mike!
I had a late 60's Pontiac manual and it recommended soaking stuck lifters in marvel mystery oil. Also had an engine builder recommend squirting some in each cylinder and rotating the engine by hand, backwards first, before starting an engine that has been sitting a long time.
Yes!!
66 Pontiac factory manual in my case.
I think stoddards is the basis of WD….
Another additive in MMO is oil of spearmint, also used in Kroil penetrating oil. It's part of what gives MMO that strong scent. It's one of the best penetrants and adds to the oil's use to free stuck parts. I've added MMO to customer's fuel when doing bike services, just to make the engine feel a little better when they pick it up, also have had customers use it to free sticky rings on bikes that got used for too many short trips. It's great stuff and causes no harm. Though they're pretty old, you can still find MMO top cylinder bleeders that attach to the intake, and if you look at old cars, sometimes you see one bolted to the firewall.
I have been to some car shows and have seen the MMO Inverse Oiler mounted to the firewall. There was a line going from the inverse oiler to a area between the bottom of the carburetor and the intake manifold.
Since I add 4 ounces of MMO to the gas every time I fill up, I am probably doing about the same thing as the inverse oiler was doing.
Methyl salicylate?
Close on the smell, it's actually wintergreen
I am a former Flight Instructor. I had a Mentor as my Flight Instructor who had been a Captain for Untied Airlines from 1949 to 1975. "Captain Bill". He was also an A&P and an aircraft owner. He used 1qt. in his oil at every oil change on all of his planes. When it came time to overhaul the engines at TBO he would do everything himself except the heads. He would take them into a shop that would do all the valves , lifters etc... He told me every time he went to pick up the heads the shop would ask.. "Hey Bill. What kind of oil are you using?" He'd always say "why" and they would ALWAYS say "Well, your engine looks brand new. there's no wear anywhere. lifters, cam lobes valve seals and we just want to know what you're doing?" "Oh, just 30W " Why didn't he tell them? Because it is illegal to put any additives in an aircraft engine that is not approved by the FAA. I've used it on every vehicle I've owned since 1990 when he told me that. I now drive a 2007 Ford F350 with 206,000 miles on it. Doesn't burn a drop of oil, runs like it did when I drove it off the lot. Note: break in a new engine before using Marvel or it will NEVER break in.
my dad added a quart to his 540 lycoming as well.. 77 piperlance pa32r..
What oil do add mmo to, fossil or synthetic?
@@DonTerhune1200cc doesn't matter
My grandfather was a carpenter building the Portchester factory for MMO. In 1970, I used MMO to clean an engine prior to disassembly. It removed 90% of the carbon in the combustion chamber. I've used it to clean rings and valves while running the engine. In 2000, I had a 1989 minivan with a weak cylinder. Putting MMO in the gas had the engine running well in 4 months. I still use it. In 1970, I saw two cans of STP gell the oil in a Ford Country Squire 390. It had been towing a big trailer. I like that it leaves a thin coating on fuel systems and prevents corrosion. Thanks for the info. Good Luck, Rick
When I do an oil filter change, I’ll drain all the oil out then add approximately 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery oil in the oil fill and let it push any old oil out prior to tightening the oil pan bolt. While initially filling with 5 quarts will add another 4 ounces. Great Product
I have used it mainly for hydraulic lifter issues, clatter, bleed down, sticking etc. Threw it in one time with a nothing to lose type mind set, & be damned if the damn stuff don't work like a charm ! Also Tony, I know that beef tallow & lards are used in certain machining oils. I'm sure you know a good machinist. Ask him (or her) about the lard & he should know. 🤓
I just posted a question about an occasional sticking lifter in my low mileage 74 Charger 318. I have a lot of MMO from my dad; maybe I'll try some in the crankcase.
I was just adding stabilizer to the gas on my mower and snowblower and still had to rebuild carburetors every year. Now I use Marvel Mystery Oil and Non Ethanol gas for the first start, and the last run of both my lawnmower and snowblower (mystery oil also added to oil). Haven't had to rebuild them since.
Get a 5 gallon can and put it in everytime you fill it up,I kind of use alot more than you're supposed to,but the stuff is cheap and it's easy to do.
15 years ago I put a little Marvel in my cylinders and put the plugs back in. It smoked the neighborhood for 15 minutes or more. Afterwards the spark plugs were clean like new, no joke. Ever since then it has become my additive of choice for keeping the cleaning and lubricating properties for combustion chamber, injectors and fuel pump. I usually mix this with Lucas for a deep clean couple times a year. If you keep up with it, it keeps working. Also use it in power steering. It smells nice too!
Does it help with noises in power steering? Or better turning?
@@A6tl996 It quieted mine after it running with lucas in it for a cpl yrs and starting to make noise.
I been throwing a qrt into my 6.2 ls engine for the past two years about a 1,000 miles before every oil change is due. These engines normally burn a quart of oil every 1-2k miles so I’ve been topping it off with regular oil and then moving to the marvel stuff towards the end. My motor is about to pass 200,000 miles and runs stronger than it did when I got it at 167,000 miles. Besides the efficiency increase I really started doing it to prevent the engine from getting gummed up causing the active fuel management issues. It may be placebo but I feel like mystery oil has helped.
The only Mopar I ever owned UT (69 Satellite w/ a 318) I would put a quart in every oil change. When the car was finally scrapped a dozen yrs later, you could pull the valve covers off and still see the paint markings from the factory on the valve springs and the oil passages were spotless. It gets my 👍!
I helped bring the Marvel Mystery Oil Synthetic To The Market - I love the stuff
I used it for years in my airplane, 1/2 oz per gallon of gas, kept the valves clean and it also seemed to help keep the lead from the avgas from fouling the plugs as fast. Also used it in an old Caterpillar d326 generator engine that would stick a lifter as you got towards the oil change time, dumped half a quart in the oil when she started missing and within 10-15 minutes would pick up that cylinder.
jonfranklin: what engine did you have that airplane?
@@horacesawyer2487
I have a 108-3 Stinson with a 165 hp Franklin.
@@jonfranklin4583 : that's awesome.. I should start adding it to the fuel in a 182 with a Continental O-470U. About 1300 hours now. 2000 TBO.
I hardly ever used it in my vehicles engines. I do use it quite frequently in fact in my air tools. The smell is amazing and it doesn’t ruin the performance of the air tool like some heavier air tool oils tend to do.
I keep a spray bottle of Marvel as my No.1 go-to as a penetrant as well as a rust-inhibitor (wiped down). Plus, I've unstuck EVERY engine that I've ever attempted to unfreeze when it is put down the cylinders.
At 120,000 miles on my engine I decided to use this in my car. My gas mileage instantly went from 34 - 36 MPG in mixed driving to 37 - 41 MPG in mixed driving. I used it in the oil. I now have 160,000 miles on the engine and it still runs like new, and gives me great fuel mileage. It also accelerates great. It's not tired at all. It's a 2012 Ford Focus with MANUAL transmission. Ready to go another 160,000 miles. I've used Lucas fuel injector cleaner in it a couple times, but I think I will try the MMO in the fuel tank too.
I've used it to free a couple of seized tractor engines. Soaked the cylinders couple of days, it seemed to work. Both engines ran fine without a teardown.
definite work solution to at least try. years ago i had a stuck lifter and it actually worked it loose. amazing stuff to a point! thanks as always for your videos! so glad you had some shorter ones cause lately the longer ones i havent been able to watch due to not enough time! love all your videos! keep rolling. your an inspiration to us old guys who have old vehicles we like working on!!
I have a '56 Tbird with 312 y-block. The forums I read almost always mentions Marvel Mystery Oil as first item to try for all the reasons you discussed. Thanks Tony.
Y-BLOCKS have a particular oil passage issue, prone to varnishing the interior of the motor.
There's a RUclips video on the topic .
I had a '55 292 y-block.
Oil changes on the dot which those motors
Awesome video. One thing I have used MMO for over the years is reducing oil burning on modern day Honda engines but not by adding it to the oil. I have found that if pull out all the spark plugs and pour MMO into the spark plug hole and letting it sit for 24 hours on top of the piston. After that have someone crank the engine with the plugs out while you hold some rags over the spark plug holes so you don't make a mess. But then reinstall the plugs and fire it up. I have had engines that were blowing blue smoke go to not smoking at all. My theory is the MMO sitting on top of the piston will eventually try to make its way past the piston and into the crankcase but it will have to soak the oil rings in MMO before it can get into the crankcase and in the process it breaks down carbon build up on the oil control rings.
I have an 454 that was getting an intermittent lifter tick. It was just one lifter, so I added a bottle and it stayed quiet for about 5,000 miles. I never expected it to fix a bad lifter, but I was surprised that it even helped as much as it did.
I've been a user of Marvel Mystery Oil for years (77 years old) and it's still a mystery to me if it really does work. It does give my a fuzzy soft feeling when I use it and I've never had a problem using it. I was a mechanical engineer and we used stoddard solvent instead of gasoline in our carburetor flow benches (giving my age away again) because it wasn't flammable. What I do wonder is the effect it has on oil viscosity. I've been trying to get Lake Speed Jr. to do an analysis and vid on it.
I have used MMO for over 40 years as A air tool Lube! I have a very old Rodac inline air sander 44 yeats old still works!
I used some in the oil of my 81 Jeep CJ7 that was smoking badly after I purchased it. It cleared it up. At the next oil change I left the filter in my metal drain pan overnight because I wanted to cut it up and check for metal in the filter. The next day when I went to go open the filter the oil in the drain pan had crept up the sides of the pan in crazy geometric patterns almost like frost on a window.
Was your engine blowing white or blue smoke, and was it blowing smoke constantly or only when you accelerated from a stop position and then clear up?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion blue when taking off from a stop it smoked bad
Probably had 1 or more stuck piston rings that the marvel got moving again
@eddymetal84
Smoked blue continuously, it's rings. Expensive repair. Smoked blue only for a few seconds when leaving from a stopped then cleared up the it's valve seals. Inexpensive. Replace what remains with Teflon seals.
@@MrJohnnyDistortionYep. My dad's 66 Coronet was blowing blue under all conditions. He had rebuilt the heads when it burned exhaust valves but never touched the cylinders. The rings gave up on it so when I inherited it 12 years ago I rebuilt the whole engine. Needed a 0.030 overbore to get rid of the ridge carved into the cylinder walls. Now runs like new. Just a stock 273 2bbl with a mild Isky cam. Not a racecar...😎
I did not realize the timing chain is submersed in the oil pan..... I guess the engines I've owned have been different than the one you are referring to.
Sea Foam is both a fuel and oil additive too. I have used it many times in my motorcycles as a fuel stabilizer when they are parked during the winter. This winter I used Sta Bil instead. The Sta Bil was cheaper so I used it.
Seafoam isn’t quite the same as MMO.
I wouldn’t trust it as a stabilizer either, nor would I trust sta-bil as a good stabilizer either. It truly is snake oil.
Seafoam can do some things MMO does but so does diesel and kerosene at a much cheaper price than seafoam.
@@thatairplaneguy Seafoam is NOT snake oil... it has proven itself just like MMO, I have used it successfully to fix oil consumption on my Tundra and the prolonged hard starting on my wife's Pilot.
It is good stuff... A good oil for air tools... I like to use products similar to this in fuel systems to keep the fine passages clean and it does work well to remove the carbon deposits on intake valves and intake port runners especially on carbureted and TBI engines... Yes the combustion chambers and upper rings can be cleaned & free'd up using this and other similar products in the fuel system...The idea of using it in the engine oil is a good one as I have minimised noise in the valvetrane and cut the blow-by and reduce ring sticking...
I have personally been able to extend the overall mileage of my truck engine by using products like these....
My '77 GMC P/U has the original engine it came with and neither the heads or the engine have ever been removed from that truck.. It is a daily driver that I acquired from the original owner back in 2000... Oh, the truck now has accumulated well over 620k miles, and it still runs smoothly...
Thanks for this video Tony!!! It is very informative, as you usually produce high quality & accurate programs...
I use MMO as an after run oil in my RC airplanes glow engines. It helps keep the water in the air from rusting the bearing. I've even put a little in the fuel and it can help keep it clean.
Royal Purple + MMO is a magical combination
Hi can you elaborate n how do you use it
@tygibbs5724 Royal Purple Full synthetic you do as your normal oil change, then for the Marvel Mystery Oil you need the RED Bottle, add 1 quart for the engine oil, add 1 quart for the gas tank, perfectly safe for Gas it even explains it on the bottle,
Depending on your engine size, if you have a 4cyl engine, pour half the bottle in the gas, if V6 or V8 can take a full bottle but make sure you fill your car/truck up all the way with gas ⛽️ NEVER POUR 2 BOTTLES IN THE SAME TANK, fuel will be too thick
There is a Black Marvel Mystery Oil bottle full synthetic, ENGINE OIL ONLY do not pour the black bottle into gas only engine oil I would worry about that later after your engine cleans up a bit,
Lastly, if you have a diesel truck 2007 and below, you can use MMO in them, 2008 and above won't work well with the modern diesel engines or might mess up some sensors
I have one of the original metal cans from the 90's and refill it from the newer plastic bottles
I inherited a bottle that's gotta be 30yo, never opened.
It definitely has more wintergreen smell than the new stuff, and was a little darker maybe but it worked fine.
I suspect they've had to modify the original formula here and there over the years.
Same here!!
@@MrTheHillfolk
I don’t think they have to!
A factory can make any chemical or blend of chemicals!
The plastic containers can break if dropped, especially if it's cold. A real mess. Thank goodness I saved the old metal one gal cans
In Grmany we use Two stroke oil in the fuel of every vintage engine for cleanen, top oiling and anti corrosion.
We always used Marvel Mystery Oil straight in 2 speed axle shift motors. It worked perfectly.