Thank you, sir! Sept 2024 I am building a 20 ft x 16 ft outdoor deck with Brazilian South Pacific Redwood (Toren or Manilkara??) 5/4 x 6 decking on pressure treated 2x6 wood joists (they are wet from Home Depot LOL). The clearance to ground on three sides of the deck will be ~ 12 inches. I will cover the area below the deck with a 6 mil black PE plastic vapor barrier with 2-in pea gravel as ballast. We live near a mountain canyon that provides morning and evening convection winds. This deck will be 90% screened from the sun (in the summer months) by a large deciduous shade tree. I live at 4500 ft elevation in northern Utah with weather extremes between -5* F in winter to +107*F in summer. We see 36 in of snow fall in the valley each winter that will endure for a month or so. Summers, after the spring rains, are hot and dry. Usually 95* - 105* in the hot part of summer with relative humidity averaging 'bone dry.' I am purchasing kiln dried 5x4 x 6 (8% avg) lumber from a warehouse in Oregon. I intend to ship it to Utah and set it up on cinder blocks or equal in an open (covered from sun and rain) carport for 30 days before installation (later this fall). I intend to coat all 4 sides and edges with a high quality Tung UV oil prior to installation. I will surface screw each board 2X to each joist (19.2 in O/C spacing) with color matched SS 305 screws. Anything you can see that I have missed? Suggestions???
Cupping is also a function of grain orientation. Shrinkage will make the boards crown and well as cup, depending on the grain orientation. My answer, to avoid and movement problems, is to use a 4" wide Rift and Qtr sawn stock, no matter what the species is.
I have a cumaru deck that stands 7’ off the ground with plenty of air flow. Most of the boards cupped!! I rented a heavy duty floor sander and just about killed myself sanding it down flat. Try installing the boards with the end grain arching downwards instead of upwards in the direction of the cup. Live and learn!
We are installing a new wrap around porch and ipe was specked for the project. After watching your article I'm concerned. I don't think there will be proper airflow, especially since part of the porch wraps around over a garage. Should I just go with another type of wood? Or will the grooved boards prevent cupping?
Absolutely, yes. We have many customers in Michigan that would attest to that. And yes, it could last more than 50 years, but that will depend largely on the conditions.
@@Dangleesack123 Please let me assume that cost includes the decking AND the labor. If so, that might be market appropriate. We only sell the materials, so I don't have a great idea of what is competitive for the labor to install. I can speak, in great length, about the materials cost. In short, the lumber (depending on the fastening method) should come in around $2500-3000. This would not include the actual fasteners or the cost of shipping. You are free to call me if you'd like a quote from us, 770-242-0045. My name is, Sam.
I would like to install Ipe over existing deck boards. Would grooving the underside of Ipe be good enough to prevent cupping? Or should I just go with a good synthetic board? Thanks.
I would not really recommend putting them directly on existing deck boards, even with the bottom grooves. This said, Ipe Deck Tiles, would be a fabulous 'solution driven' option. Deck Tiles are incredibly resilient to moisture related cupping. If that isn't the aesthetic you're going for then yes, perhaps synthetic is a better option. Good Luck!
How likely is cupping if IPE is used as a "drink rail" type top rail on an uncovered porch railing? The IPE would be 5/4 x 6 in 10' lengths. Also, is the IPE likely to shrink in length creating gaps where pieces butt together?
I used 2x6x10 and have had no issue. Screwed it to a 2x4 on edge every 12 inches with a #10x2.5" simpson ss deck screw. Pre drilled for Screw and plug. Also clamp the 2x6 to the 2x4 prior to screwing so there is no separation when screw starts into 2x4. 5/4 × 6 will cup if it doesn't have side by side screws 1 inch in from edge down the length every 12 or 16 inches. Will still cup some but not as much
Ruggero I installed 540 sq .ft of Ipe at my home in 2008 and none of the decking is more than 16" above grade. I've had two boards cup very minimally and only on one end. I counter sunk and pre drilled for every Stainless Steel Screw and plugged with Ipe Plugs. I then rented a floor sander and sanded entire deck. The deck is a nice silver as I've never stained it. If you use any screw besides SS they will eventually develop rust and bleed through the plugged areas. It's labor intense, but virtually maintenance free. Good luck
I agree with Bart. For ground level decks, I almost always recommend applying the bottom grooves to the boards. Perhaps there are some ground level situations that would not require that, but I think it is worth the effort to help prevent the possibility of cupping.
@@brazilianwooddepot6345 I have an old concrete slab, pitched outside of the house. I want to put slippers, likely 2x4 face down as I can't elevate the deck too much. This will leave very small room between the decking and the slab. Certainly a box between each joist. Is IPE prohibited in this situation? Tiles? Thanks!
@@dmitrykalashnikov8637 That would mean that the Ipe deck boards would have 3.5" of surface contact with the 2x4's. In my opinion, that is not a great situation. If you used Bottom Grooves, that would be better. Deck Tiles would be the prefered solution. In which case, you wouldn't need the sleeper system.
My wife and I are planning on doing our deck in ipe and have selected 4 inch boards just for this reason. Especially since our back yard will have a near ground level deck with no railings (rock underneath to avoid wet conditions under the deck)
" Never install on a subfloor" why not? Subfloor usually indicates an interior install devoid of moisture. Ipe is wood and if dried properly, acclimated properly, and installed properly, Ipe works like any other hardwood.
You are absolutely correct, Bart. What I meant to say is, "Never install Ipe DECKING on a subfloor." If you are using Ipe Flooring on an interior application, it will almost certainly be installed on a subfloor. Thank you for that clarification!
Thank you, sir! Sept 2024 I am building a 20 ft x 16 ft outdoor deck with Brazilian South Pacific Redwood (Toren or Manilkara??) 5/4 x 6 decking on pressure treated 2x6 wood joists (they are wet from Home Depot LOL). The clearance to ground on three sides of the deck will be ~ 12 inches. I will cover the area below the deck with a 6 mil black PE plastic vapor barrier with 2-in pea gravel as ballast. We live near a mountain canyon that provides morning and evening convection winds. This deck will be 90% screened from the sun (in the summer months) by a large deciduous shade tree. I live at 4500 ft elevation in northern Utah with weather extremes between -5* F in winter to +107*F in summer. We see 36 in of snow fall in the valley each winter that will endure for a month or so. Summers, after the spring rains, are hot and dry. Usually 95* - 105* in the hot part of summer with relative humidity averaging 'bone dry.' I am purchasing kiln dried 5x4 x 6 (8% avg) lumber from a warehouse in Oregon. I intend to ship it to Utah and set it up on cinder blocks or equal in an open (covered from sun and rain) carport for 30 days before installation (later this fall). I intend to coat all 4 sides and edges with a high quality Tung UV oil prior to installation. I will surface screw each board 2X to each joist (19.2 in O/C spacing) with color matched SS 305 screws. Anything you can see that I have missed? Suggestions???
Hi there, im wondering what to do with bad air circulation under the deck. Is there any sealer or oil that you reccomend? Thank you
how does ipe stand up to cold weather and snowy places like Minnesota?
Will G tape or any other joist tape good idea to protect my joist from rotting?
Cupping is also a function of grain orientation. Shrinkage will make the boards crown and well as cup, depending on the grain orientation. My answer, to avoid and movement problems, is to use a 4" wide Rift and Qtr sawn stock, no matter what the species is.
can you use ipe for making a door?
It is not problem to cut ipe with circular saw with carbid saw blade?
Thanks
I have a cumaru deck that stands 7’ off the ground with plenty of air flow. Most of the boards cupped!! I rented a heavy duty floor sander and just about killed myself sanding it down flat. Try installing the boards with the end grain arching downwards instead of upwards in the direction of the cup.
Live and learn!
We are installing a new wrap around porch and ipe was specked for the project. After watching your article I'm concerned. I don't think there will be proper airflow, especially since part of the porch wraps around over a garage. Should I just go with another type of wood? Or will the grooved boards prevent cupping?
is an ipe deck able to survive michigan weather? can it last more than 50 years?
Absolutely, yes. We have many customers in Michigan that would attest to that. And yes, it could last more than 50 years, but that will depend largely on the conditions.
@@brazilianwooddepot6345 Thank you, Also how much is an ipe deck? someone is qutiong me $30000 for 16 x 20 ipe deck
@@Dangleesack123 Please let me assume that cost includes the decking AND the labor. If so, that might be market appropriate. We only sell the materials, so I don't have a great idea of what is competitive for the labor to install. I can speak, in great length, about the materials cost. In short, the lumber (depending on the fastening method) should come in around $2500-3000. This would not include the actual fasteners or the cost of shipping. You are free to call me if you'd like a quote from us, 770-242-0045. My name is, Sam.
My Ipe has already cupped. Is there a solution or fix?
I would like to install Ipe over existing deck boards. Would grooving the underside of Ipe be good enough to prevent cupping? Or should I just go with a good synthetic board? Thanks.
I would not really recommend putting them directly on existing deck boards, even with the bottom grooves. This said, Ipe Deck Tiles, would be a fabulous 'solution driven' option. Deck Tiles are incredibly resilient to moisture related cupping. If that isn't the aesthetic you're going for then yes, perhaps synthetic is a better option. Good Luck!
How likely is cupping if IPE is used as a "drink rail" type top rail on an uncovered porch railing? The IPE would be 5/4 x 6 in 10' lengths. Also, is the IPE likely to shrink in length creating gaps where pieces butt together?
I used 2x6x10 and have had no issue. Screwed it to a 2x4 on edge every 12 inches with a #10x2.5" simpson ss deck screw. Pre drilled for Screw and plug. Also clamp the 2x6 to the 2x4 prior to screwing so there is no separation when screw starts into 2x4.
5/4 × 6 will cup if it doesn't have side by side screws 1 inch in from edge down the length every 12 or 16 inches. Will still cup some but not as much
Good video. Is IPE a good choice for ground level decking?
Ruggero
I installed 540 sq .ft of Ipe at my home in 2008 and none of the decking is more than 16" above grade. I've had two boards cup very minimally and only on one end. I counter sunk and pre drilled for every Stainless Steel Screw and plugged with Ipe Plugs. I then rented a floor sander and sanded entire deck. The deck is a nice silver as I've never stained it. If you use any screw besides SS they will eventually develop rust and bleed through the plugged areas. It's labor intense, but virtually maintenance free.
Good luck
I agree with Bart. For ground level decks, I almost always recommend applying the bottom grooves to the boards. Perhaps there are some ground level situations that would not require that, but I think it is worth the effort to help prevent the possibility of cupping.
@@brazilianwooddepot6345
I have an old concrete slab, pitched outside of the house. I want to put slippers, likely 2x4 face down as I can't elevate the deck too much. This will leave very small room between the decking and the slab. Certainly a box between each joist.
Is IPE prohibited in this situation? Tiles?
Thanks!
@@dmitrykalashnikov8637 That would mean that the Ipe deck boards would have 3.5" of surface contact with the 2x4's. In my opinion, that is not a great situation. If you used Bottom Grooves, that would be better. Deck Tiles would be the prefered solution. In which case, you wouldn't need the sleeper system.
Very clear !
saw a different video about using more narrow boards to avoid the cupping. He was using I believe 4" wide decking ....... maybe 3.
My wife and I are planning on doing our deck in ipe and have selected 4 inch boards just for this reason. Especially since our back yard will have a near ground level deck with no railings (rock underneath to avoid wet conditions under the deck)
" Never install on a subfloor" why not? Subfloor usually indicates an interior install devoid of moisture. Ipe is wood and if dried properly, acclimated properly, and installed properly, Ipe works like any other hardwood.
You are absolutely correct, Bart. What I meant to say is, "Never install Ipe DECKING on a subfloor." If you are using Ipe Flooring on an interior application, it will almost certainly be installed on a subfloor. Thank you for that clarification!
I'm not a fan or IPA's...