The screen on the sediment bowl (the one you lost) is designed to be - *the first line of protection for the carb jets* . If any junk gets past that screen then the fuel goes into the glass bottom of the sediment bowl where water and small heavy "stuff" like rust powder settles down to the bottom - *the second line of protection for the carb jets* . Then the screen inside and on top of on top of the glass prevents / stops lighter "stuff" from passing through it - *third line of protection for the carb jets* . Then the screen on the top of the carb (where the fuel goes from the fuel line into the carb is - *the forth line of protection for the carb jets* . Finally the carb bowl itself acts as - *the OMG last line of protection for the carb jets* . VERY important to only get as clean as possible fuel to the jets - right? Now, the "Two Turns" thing. That is designed to give the operator enough fuel (as a reserve) to drive back out of the field to refuel. (No fuel gauge, right?) "The Procedure" is to open up the wheel/knob on the sediment bowl ALL the way open when you fill the tank and then close it down two *full* turns. Then, when the tank runs "dry", climb back off and open that wheel all the way open and then drive back out of the field "on reserve". Then, after refueling, close the wheel 2 full turns and keep on plowing until the next time you run out. ""The Myth"" about never using the reserve because of junk came about because junk does sneak it's way into the fuel tank over years. You saw some dramatic junk that came from fuel cans over the years and even, possibly, some old chamois leather filter fuzz from straining bad fuel in the distant past. Previous "hobby owners" never relied on the reserve and so the junk just continued to accumulate in the bottom of the tank. As a suggestion, go to your favorite on line funnel store and buy a funnel with a *fine mesh screen* in it. Then start with less than 1/2 tank of gas in the 8N. Drain that fuel from the tank into a 5 gallon gas can *through the screened filter funnel* . Then take another 5 gallon can and set it up with the screened funnel to receive fuel from the tank like the first one was set up. Briskly pour the first 5 gallons of gas back into the tank while catching all of it that runs out the drain in the newly set up can. Repeat as needed. the tank is 10 gal capacity, hence the 1/2 full start. The screen keeps catching junk and the now freshly filtered fuel keeps flushing the tank (over and over) until it's "clean enough". Afterwords only clean gas into the tank and periodic checking the glass bowl for water. (Now you know why they're made of glass and the shut off is positioned right there) Please, *never* drop or throw a fuel funnel in the dirt - that's probably how that glass got into the tank to start with. Do a web search for "Mr. Filter" to see a neat (but sorta slow) 100% water excluding filter. I have 3 of them and IMHO they're really good, especially with ethanol gas. Boats always have water in the gas from the gas cans - right? My '40 9N starts instantly just like yours - can't get the finger off the starter button fast enough. - Joe -
Very informative video! Am new to tractors and have been struggling with fuel and ignition on my Jubilee. Figured out the ignition and NOW am heading out to pull the sediment bowl
Dude... this is exactly what I needed to see. I thought maybe I needed new spark plugs but from your description sounds like I need to run through these actions. I'll let you know if mine is the same.
Great info. I was having same problem and I did the same thing as u turned the valve wide open and junk filled up in sediment bowl. Thank you for your video I’m going to take mine off and clean it or replace it. Good tips. I never read the valve either.
The original set ups had two different height stems . The reserve stem was shorter but not level with the bottom of the tank, so most junk would still not get in the gas line.
I have problems with the Chinese made sediment bowl assembles being porous and having holes in the castings and having leaks that could never stop leaking. So Check them very carefully if you have leak problems.
Great video and I think it is exactly the problem I'm having, but don't you have a bigger C wrench to use on that little fuel line? I'm subscribing because I like your shirt, I appreciate your wit, and I want to see more of your videos.
Dont feel bad you are not the only one to not read the tap. lol I just bought a TEA20 with a blocked tank tap so fixing that soon. We usa a thing called REDKOTE from the USa and it will line the tank after cleaning and stop and more flakes forming.
Lol I know I know. Sorry about that. Nothing more frustrating than not having all your tools with you. If you only knew how much of that wrench fumbling I edited out! 🤦🏻♂️🤪
A couple times I’ve had my fuel system “air lock”. There may be a better term for it, but essentially fuel wouldn’t pass through the carb on a couple occasions. When this has happened I would open the petcock and make sure fuel was leaving the tank. Then loosen the sediment bowl and make sure fuel was flowing good. From there, I’d start at the first fuel line fittings and loosen it until fuel started to come out. Loosen everything until you see fuel at the carb. Usually if you can remove the bowl drain bolt and have a steady flow of fuel, you’re good to go. Idk if air gets trapped in the fuel line or what. But it’s happened to me and “bleeding” the fuel line fixed it each time.
Развлечения
The screen on the sediment bowl (the one you lost) is designed to be - *the first line of protection for the carb jets* .
If any junk gets past that screen then the fuel goes into the glass bottom of the sediment bowl where water and small heavy "stuff" like rust powder settles down to the bottom - *the second line of protection for the carb jets* .
Then the screen inside and on top of on top of the glass prevents / stops lighter "stuff" from passing through it - *third line of protection for the carb jets* .
Then the screen on the top of the carb (where the fuel goes from the fuel line into the carb is - *the forth line of protection for the carb jets* .
Finally the carb bowl itself acts as - *the OMG last line of protection for the carb jets* .
VERY important to only get as clean as possible fuel to the jets - right?
Now, the "Two Turns" thing. That is designed to give the operator enough fuel (as a reserve) to drive back out of the field to refuel. (No fuel gauge, right?) "The Procedure" is to open up the wheel/knob on the sediment bowl ALL the way open when you fill the tank and then close it down two *full* turns. Then, when the tank runs "dry", climb back off and open that wheel all the way open and then drive back out of the field "on reserve". Then, after refueling, close the wheel 2 full turns and keep on plowing until the next time you run out.
""The Myth"" about never using the reserve because of junk came about because junk does sneak it's way into the fuel tank over years. You saw some dramatic junk that came from fuel cans over the years and even, possibly, some old chamois leather filter fuzz from straining bad fuel in the distant past. Previous "hobby owners" never relied on the reserve and so the junk just continued to accumulate in the bottom of the tank.
As a suggestion, go to your favorite on line funnel store and buy a funnel with a *fine mesh screen* in it. Then start with less than 1/2 tank of gas in the 8N. Drain that fuel from the tank into a 5 gallon gas can *through the screened filter funnel* . Then take another 5 gallon can and set it up with the screened funnel to receive fuel from the tank like the first one was set up. Briskly pour the first 5 gallons of gas back into the tank while catching all of it that runs out the drain in the newly set up can. Repeat as needed. the tank is 10 gal capacity, hence the 1/2 full start.
The screen keeps catching junk and the now freshly filtered fuel keeps flushing the tank (over and over) until it's "clean enough". Afterwords only clean gas into the tank and periodic checking the glass bowl for water. (Now you know why they're made of glass and the shut off is positioned right there)
Please, *never* drop or throw a fuel funnel in the dirt - that's probably how that glass got into the tank to start with.
Do a web search for "Mr. Filter" to see a neat (but sorta slow) 100% water excluding filter. I have 3 of them and IMHO they're really good, especially with ethanol gas. Boats always have water in the gas from the gas cans - right?
My '40 9N starts instantly just like yours - can't get the finger off the starter button fast enough. - Joe -
Thank you great info
Thanks
Very informative video! Am new to tractors and have been struggling with fuel and ignition on my Jubilee. Figured out the ignition and NOW am heading out to pull the sediment bowl
Get the manuals for your tractor and watch the videos by Rachel Gingell She knows her stuff..
Dude... this is exactly what I needed to see. I thought maybe I needed new spark plugs but from your description sounds like I need to run through these actions. I'll let you know if mine is the same.
Fuel delivery is very common issue. My lines get plugged up a lot. Always an easy place to check first. Good luck!
It was painful to watch! Lol great video getting ready to swap mine because I’m bowl is leaking!
Good luck! Thanks for watching.
Great info. I was having same problem and I did the same thing as u turned the valve wide open and junk filled up in sediment bowl. Thank you for your video I’m going to take mine off and clean it or replace it. Good tips. I never read the valve either.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
That liquor bottle story made my night!!!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Oh thank god for this video. This exactly what I did. (Face palm)
Thanks for the video, it was helpful.
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Great description
Thank you!
The original set ups had two different height stems . The reserve stem was shorter but not level with the bottom of the tank, so most junk would still not get in the gas line.
I have problems with the Chinese made sediment bowl assembles being porous and having holes in the castings and having leaks that could never stop leaking. So Check them very carefully if you have leak problems.
Yep, I've noticed the same thing. A friend of mine always used a chinese replacement and it leaked so badly it wasn't usable. Thanks for the comment!
Great video and I think it is exactly the problem I'm having, but don't you have a bigger C wrench to use on that little fuel line?
I'm subscribing because I like your shirt, I appreciate your wit, and I want to see more of your videos.
...with liberal application of the universal bolt-rounding tool...
Hahaha I wasn’t proud of that, but I didn’t have my end wrenches on me.
Job Security for the hardware store employees. - Joe -
Bless you..
Bless you
Dont feel bad you are not the only one to not read the tap. lol I just bought a TEA20 with a blocked tank tap so fixing that soon. We usa a thing called REDKOTE from the USa and it will line the tank after cleaning and stop and more flakes forming.
It was killing me too watch you struggle with that wrench.
Lol I know I know. Sorry about that. Nothing more frustrating than not having all your tools with you. If you only knew how much of that wrench fumbling I edited out! 🤦🏻♂️🤪
Nice hoodie.
Thank ya sir!
It's painful for sure. You need a set of open end wrenches.
I just replaced my carb and now I'm not getting fuel to my plugs any thoughts on what my problem might be
A couple times I’ve had my fuel system “air lock”. There may be a better term for it, but essentially fuel wouldn’t pass through the carb on a couple occasions. When this has happened I would open the petcock and make sure fuel was leaving the tank. Then loosen the sediment bowl and make sure fuel was flowing good. From there, I’d start at the first fuel line fittings and loosen it until fuel started to come out. Loosen everything until you see fuel at the carb. Usually if you can remove the bowl drain bolt and have a steady flow of fuel, you’re good to go. Idk if air gets trapped in the fuel line or what. But it’s happened to me and “bleeding” the fuel line fixed it each time.
You need a bigger wrench.
You a demolition ranch fan?
Oh I watch it from time to time.
@@MrJustinWheeler Yeah - that's why he has the sweat shirt. :~) - Joe -
Why not use correct wrench
Don't take much experience to do this
what a waste of 21:25 minutes of my life
So, Yolanda, just go to tik-tok and become ever so culturally enriched.