I emailed Liqui Moly and asked them if you need to do a second oil change after the flush and they said you don’t need to. They basically said that the engine flush is just highly concentrated version of the additives that are in their normal oil and that by draining the oil with the flush in it, you remove enough of it that you don’t need to change it twice. It will just mix with your new oil. These companies have already considered these things. So in case anyone is wondering- this is a waste of time and money
Yes especially for engines under 100,000 miles just do it once let it idle for 15 mins warm then flush and fill with LiquiMoly Oil the residue of the flush will not harm the engine.
I do agree with you. I too don’t want to waste more money/time. However I have seen two videos that do these kind of extra oil/filter second flushing and it is true that the second oil have those black oil residue. So I am still debating whether it really necessary to do the second flushing or not.
I'm buying an '06 Jeep Commander 4.7 with 180K miles that's had 4 previous owners and unsure of maintenance, so this is the first thing I plan to do. Thanks for doing this video.
Nice technique, I did the flush differently, I drained all the old oil and filter, put a cheap filter and cheap oil with the flush, after 15 minutes i drained the oil and put a good quality oil and filter
i like this way better. would rather brand new oil with the flush and honestly im tempted to instead of just idling, get it to 2000 rpms to really get that heat and flush working, then drain it and put liquimnoly oil, and then liquimoly Ceratec
I would only ever recommend ever doing this if you have an older, high mileage vehicle and you're unsure or know oil changes haven't been done on time and it has issues like oil burning or other performance issues. If oil changes are done on time using a good quality oil, you should never need to do this because the detergents in the oil are good enough to keep the engine clean over the long haul which prevents sludge buildup.
@@n55morris14 makes perfect sense to me, I also did this on my daughter's Camry that she just bought used with 206k on it. I had to change the valve cover gasket so fortunately it looks like oil changes were done regularly but I went ahead and did the flush anyway
The only proper way! 😄 nice video! I’m just to greedy to use an expensive filter both times, I always use one cheap filter for the flush, and one expensive filter for the proper oil change
To be thorough, drain oil, put in cheap oil with flush. Drain and put cheap oil in again and a second can of flush. Drain, put in cheap oil again. Drain that out and put in Amsoil 5/30 Signature Series. So you will need 3 rounds of cheap oil and 3 filters and then the last round of the good stuff with a good filter.
I've seen someone one the forums do 3 rinse. Probably the absolute max effort. I wouldn't think this car is in the worst condition so I did just the one. And unfortunately amsoil isn't readily available on the shelves 😞
Hey man nice video, you certainly know what your doing great job, BMW to BMW lover I recommend draining the same amount of oil that you are adding engine flush to prevent overfill. 👍 Keep doing what your doing
Just done my first ever oil change and was thinking of doing a double flush. I'll definitely try this on my next one in 5000 miles. Instead of liquid moli I've added a bottle of marvel mystery oil into my engine to do a gentle clean. So I'm excited to see my results and may send off samples for testing just to see how I can look after my car.
If you know the previous owner and are certain the vehicle received regular oil changes then a flush could be a good thing to do. However, it's not recommended to flush if you don't know the oil change maintenance schedule it received. Lets say the vehicle engine is full of sludge, then cleaning it out as good as you can may seem right. But think of where that sludge goes. What you see draining into the waste tray is only part of it. Anything internal ((filters/screens) are now possibly clogged with sludge.
@@DunOpondo Taking the oil pan off and cleaning the pan and oil pick up screen,(which is not a practical at home procedure to perform). Or change oil and filter in shorter intervals in hopes it helps.
I'd have reused the old sump plug for the first cheap oil flush and only used the new sump plug for the new oil since the washer that comes with it is a crush washer, also when the moli is in the engine don't just leave it at idle for the 10 mins, you need to build some pressure to get the oil flowing around the various parts - not full throttle but blip it to 2500rpm every once in a while to get better coverage 🙂
I've seen online that, it's not good to do full engine flush with a car you have no history of oil change maintenance because filters in the engine might clogged up. They say, you wanna do it slowly with frequent oil change intervals. Maybe a little additive like gumout or seafoam before oil change would help it.
I think it is good to drain old oil, add cheep oil with liqui moly engine flush with new filter, and finally add your regular oil with new filter, then you are good to go........
The problem with the way you described is that the residue from the engine flush will still be in the engine. That is why the cheap oil is used to "rinse" it out.
@@n55morris14 If you concerned about residue of engine flush left in motor, in this case you can gave it a more cheep oil cleaning cycle after flushing with liqui moly and before regular oil change for optimum cleaning of engine, my concern here is about cleaning engine as much as I can......
@@seniorprogrammer7585 that can also be done. One Facebook page I remember some did it 4 times. (Drain oil, add oil with engine flush, drain and add oil x 3)
What if instead of pouring the Liqui Moly engine flush into the old oil and then rinsing the engine with the cheap oil you empty the old oil first, then do the Liqui Moly Engine flush with the cheap oil?
Seems better to me also, as the fresh oil whould have the capacity to transport the "dirt", compaired to the old oil that is loaded with suspended dirt before even putting in the flush.
You don’t have to do an extra oil change after the flush Just run your car on your oil change schedule If it’s really gunked up then use BG engine restoration It’s pricey at 350 but when you are done the engine looks brand new
If you change your oil at the proper interval and use a high quality detergent oil you should never have to do this. I use mobile 1 full synthetic and torn motors apart at 140k+ miles with no sludge or deposits.
yes but this procedure is for when you dont know how someone treated the oil OR you do know and it was cheap oil/didnt do it often enough. just like how people dont understand how to properly do a fluch they also dont get why... its not an every oil change thing
You simply forget that 9/10 when buying a "used" car. The damage is already done due to lack of maintence. Most people within the past 2 years now (Covid spiking car prices) don't want to drop couple grand more to get a new car. A lease doesn't count unless you plan on buying it after the 3 yrs. I'm sure you get my point though.
Your oil always gets darker the longer you drive it between oil changes. The oil that came out was barely used. Maybe halfway though its service life.. There were no clumps or bits of carbon that showed on your examples which shows the engine was in very good working order. The GDI engines are no stranger to getting buildup in the intake but as long as the seals and rings are good, the oil will only discolor from the heat it contends with. My 2002 pickups oil looks the same as your demonstration at every service interval. It's about changing oil regularly and on time if not a bit early. Ultimately, that is what will prevent premature wear and other issues in the long run
@@n55morris14 In a performance setting ofc not but if I only commuted I would definitely go by the OCI interval. FYI the OCI interval adapts based on he quality of your oil. That said, your analogy does not apply at all.
@@JackRR15 how does my analogy not relate? I stated that going beyond what a manufacturer recommends is not a bad thing. You can do that, as the oil change intervals is also heavily influenced by rental car companies and having to do less warranty work. As companies who buy large amount of these cars wouldn't want to be doing oil changes often.
The Liqui Moly Oil would look like the cheaper Oil if you would drain it again. It would have a much better effect "Engine Cleaner + old Oil, then cheap Oil + Engine Cleaner and then the Oil you want to drive with ? Or am i wrong ?
What I recently had done, on my very regularly serviced car...... that I have owned since new, Oil flush added to the "old" oil since it was still in good condition (not dark brown etc) and so still able to hold any contaminates in suspension. After running it for the correct amount of time, drained the oil and changed the filter. Added a cheaper oil to clear out any of the remaining flush detergents, ran car for enough time for that oil to get hot etc. Drained that oil and changed the filter, followed by adding the good stuff (more expensive oil). Although my car is very very well maintained, and theoretically didn't need a flush, I decided to do it because that particular engine has low tension piston rings, and if they gum up they become jammed off centre, Leading to the bore becoming damaged, and the rings not sealing followed by developing an oil consumption issue. So whilst OTT, my choice was not without reason :-)
Walmart! You can get their brand of 5w-30 oil super tech for $21. I got a gallon of Shell 5w-40 for $23 (I have a b8.5 Audi A4) just cuz it was only $2 more and it's actually oil that meets VW 505 standards on their yearly technical data sheets.. They have a sale going on you can get Valvoline, quaker state, Castrol GTX, and penzoil 5w-30 as low as $19.47 up to $26.97. Choice is up to you. Plenty of options. I'm never buying oil anywhere else.
You mention German Parts, (and I gather you're in Canada... Canadian Tire...) Are they good to deal with?... Their prices for Liqui-Moly are very good, so I'm guessing you do... Any comments about them?... Also, I see you using Special Tec oil, and not Moly Gen... Any reason why?
Yes, German Parts are great to deal with. Never any hiccups and never an issue with shipping or pick up spots. With Special Tec, no specific reason. I know it's a LL-01 oil and my father using it In his BMW. If Moly Gen is better I am open to try that one.
If you have an old engine, Carbon deposits may prevent or reduce oil burning because reduces the gap in a weared area. when you flush it, the engine could burn some oil due to the removal of that layer of carbon deposits. That said, all engines burn some oil, some more than others. Dont worry too much, just check oil regularly and change it as often as you can. Me personally gonna flush my ford fiesta engine tomorrow, first time in his first 93.000Km. I am not planing in doing it regularly, only once each 40/50.000Km.
@@ViewsofTheVI I just did the oil change. I used the same liqui molly flush used in the video. Engine already at operation temperature, stop, add the flush liquid, start engine and let it idle for 10min. When the engine was idling. I didnt notice anything out, same sound and smell as always. I let the engine drain the oil for almost an hour and added some new oil to help push the last of the old oil. The old oil was pure black, it was only 13.000Km and 10 months old so I think the liqui molly did a good work. Meanwhile I changed the oil filter and diesel filter. I added the new Motul 8100 oil (I didnt flushed a second time like the video) and after adjusting the oil level, is running smooth. In the next oil change I will buy some cheap ass mineral 5W30 to do a flush with it.
Engine still healthy. Did oil change yesterday and 6.5L on fill and 5.1L on drain with 9,000km change and being tuned for past 2 weeks. Regular oil burn amount as BMW allows 1 quart (0.946L) per 1200 kms
No need to jack your car up as your filter is on the top. Extract the oil though the dipstick and you don't have to rinse it, unless the Liqui Moly flush isn't that good.
Wrong Wrong Wrong you have done it the wrong way my friend. The correct way is. Drain the old oil which has been used for 5000mils 7000mils or 10,000mils. Drain that oil and pour in correct amount of cheap quality oil, replace the oil filter, pour in the flushing liquid, then run the engine 10-15 minutes. Drain the oil and change the filter and pour good quality engine oil. This is the correct way of flushing the engine 😊😊😊😊😊😊
You do it wrong bro try this you drain the old oil n after put cheap new oil n engine flush n it will clean properly the engine trust me they do this technique in Arabia saudia n car ran forever
Way overcomplicated. You put it in an engine that is already at full operating temperature, idle for 15 min, and change the oil. It's not rocket science and this is a pointless waste of oil.
He did it wrong! Should drain the old oil out first , then put cheap oil in with the Liqui Moly flush , runs for 10-15min , the flush it out. Last step is to pour Liqui Moly oil in.
U made a mistake. U first need to start the car and then put the Flush otherwise all your liquid goes down to the oil tank. I guess u didn't read well.
I emailed Liqui Moly and asked them if you need to do a second oil change after the flush and they said you don’t need to. They basically said that the engine flush is just highly concentrated version of the additives that are in their normal oil and that by draining the oil with the flush in it, you remove enough of it that you don’t need to change it twice. It will just mix with your new oil. These companies have already considered these things. So in case anyone is wondering- this is a waste of time and money
Saved me bro I was debating on buying some cheap oil for it but there’s never truly “cheap” oil for a Mercedes! Thanks!
Saved me bro I was debating on buying some cheap oil for it but there’s never truly “cheap” oil for a Mercedes! Thanks!
Yes especially for engines under 100,000 miles just do it once let it idle for 15 mins warm then flush and fill with LiquiMoly Oil the residue of the flush will not harm the engine.
Especially if you're switching to 👑🟣🛢️
I do agree with you. I too don’t want to waste more money/time. However I have seen two videos that do these kind of extra oil/filter second flushing and it is true that the second oil have those black oil residue. So I am still debating whether it really necessary to do the second flushing or not.
I'm buying an '06 Jeep Commander 4.7 with 180K miles that's had 4 previous owners and unsure of maintenance, so this is the first thing I plan to do. Thanks for doing this video.
I heard it could be bad to do an engine flush for an old engine? (Watched a Sotty Kilmer vid)
今天不…
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@@johndizon735 Your mistake is taking anything he says. The guy clickbaits often.
@@johndizon735 fuck that guy, he literally made a video saying the opposite, look up "oil additive Scotty killer". He's just finessing viewers
Nice technique, I did the flush differently, I drained all the old oil and filter, put a cheap filter and cheap oil with the flush, after 15 minutes i drained the oil and put a good quality oil and filter
Yes but now you still have residue of the cleaner in your oil running through your engine
@@MrHukd That's why he run it with cheap engine oil first and drain it later.. did'nt get by you rite?
i like this way better. would rather brand new oil with the flush and honestly im tempted to instead of just idling, get it to 2000 rpms to really get that heat and flush working, then drain it
and put liquimnoly oil, and then liquimoly Ceratec
@@artemisentreri9684 stupid idea unless you want a spun bearing.
That's the best method imo
I would only ever recommend ever doing this if you have an older, high mileage vehicle and you're unsure or know oil changes haven't been done on time and it has issues like oil burning or other performance issues. If oil changes are done on time using a good quality oil, you should never need to do this because the detergents in the oil are good enough to keep the engine clean over the long haul which prevents sludge buildup.
Correct. Used vehicle so that's why I did it. Never didn't it since because I am on top of my oil changes
@@n55morris14 makes perfect sense to me, I also did this on my daughter's Camry that she just bought used with 206k on it. I had to change the valve cover gasket so fortunately it looks like oil changes were done regularly but I went ahead and did the flush anyway
The only proper way! 😄 nice video! I’m just to greedy to use an expensive filter both times, I always use one cheap filter for the flush, and one expensive filter for the proper oil change
To be thorough, drain oil, put in cheap oil with flush. Drain and put cheap oil in again and a second can of flush. Drain, put in cheap oil again. Drain that out and put in Amsoil 5/30 Signature Series. So you will need 3 rounds of cheap oil and 3 filters and then the last round of the good stuff with a good filter.
I've seen someone one the forums do 3 rinse. Probably the absolute max effort. I wouldn't think this car is in the worst condition so I did just the one. And unfortunately amsoil isn't readily available on the shelves 😞
The directions don't even call for one intermediate flush, let alone two or three. Help me out here.
Hey man nice video, you certainly know what your doing great job, BMW to BMW lover I recommend draining the same amount of oil that you are adding engine flush to prevent overfill. 👍 Keep doing what your doing
Application it!
Just done my first ever oil change and was thinking of doing a double flush. I'll definitely try this on my next one in 5000 miles. Instead of liquid moli I've added a bottle of marvel mystery oil into my engine to do a gentle clean. So I'm excited to see my results and may send off samples for testing just to see how I can look after my car.
What were the testing results?
Engine should be at apperating temperature, before adding the engine flush. Good effort 👌
Means
@@syedzeeshansarfaraz7545 operating temperature, around 90oC
If you know the previous owner and are certain the vehicle received regular oil changes then a flush could be a good thing to do. However, it's not recommended to flush if you don't know the oil change maintenance schedule it received. Lets say the vehicle engine is full of sludge, then cleaning it out as good as you can may seem right. But think of where that sludge goes. What you see draining into the waste tray is only part of it. Anything internal ((filters/screens) are now possibly clogged with sludge.
Makes sense
So, how do you fix that?
@@DunOpondo Taking the oil pan off and cleaning the pan and oil pick up screen,(which is not a practical at home procedure to perform). Or change oil and filter in shorter intervals in hopes it helps.
@@gotdirt17 that's logic enough, thanks.
How to fix that?
Very thorough Sir. Clean engine oil benefits the N55 engines.
1:36 of everything you said, when you said "I shall take.." I laughed so hard. 😀😂😂. You sir, are an English man
You are quite accurate with that!
02:30 Those fginger nails. Oh my.....
Absolutely gross.
I'd have reused the old sump plug for the first cheap oil flush and only used the new sump plug for the new oil since the washer that comes with it is a crush washer, also when the moli is in the engine don't just leave it at idle for the 10 mins, you need to build some pressure to get the oil flowing around the various parts - not full throttle but blip it to 2500rpm every once in a while to get better coverage 🙂
Appreciate the advice!
Or, just add it and then go put some heat into her. Works every time
Liqui Moly specifically prescribes NOT to do what you suggest but to only keeping it at idle, no more.
I've seen online that, it's not good to do full engine flush with a car you have no history of oil change maintenance because filters in the engine might clogged up. They say, you wanna do it slowly with frequent oil change intervals. Maybe a little additive like gumout or seafoam before oil change would help it.
Correct, and some mechanics won't do an oil flush unless they first take the sump off to ensure that it isn't full of crap.
I think it is good to drain old oil, add cheep oil with liqui moly engine flush with new filter, and finally add your regular oil with new filter, then you are good to go........
The problem with the way you described is that the residue from the engine flush will still be in the engine. That is why the cheap oil is used to "rinse" it out.
@@n55morris14 If you concerned about residue of engine flush left in motor, in this case you can gave it a more cheep oil cleaning cycle after flushing with liqui moly and before regular oil change for optimum cleaning of engine, my concern here is about cleaning engine as much as I can......
@@seniorprogrammer7585 that can also be done. One Facebook page I remember some did it 4 times. (Drain oil, add oil with engine flush, drain and add oil x 3)
What if instead of pouring the Liqui Moly engine flush into the old oil and then rinsing the engine with the cheap oil you empty the old oil first, then do the Liqui Moly Engine flush with the cheap oil?
Seems better to me also, as the fresh oil whould have the capacity to transport the "dirt", compaired to the old oil that is loaded with suspended dirt before even putting in the flush.
You don’t have to do an extra oil change after the flush
Just run your car on your oil change schedule
If it’s really gunked up then use BG engine restoration
It’s pricey at 350 but when you are done the engine looks brand new
I wonder, if you get the same color if you do double oil change , but without the flush :)
If you change your oil at the proper interval and use a high quality detergent oil you should never have to do this. I use mobile 1 full synthetic and torn motors apart at 140k+ miles with no sludge or deposits.
But when we buy a used car with an unknown maintenaince
@@ramonduval8231 yeah that's the problem with the secondhand card , we dont know the truth how old owner treat that before
yes but this procedure is for when you dont know how someone treated the oil OR you do know and it was cheap oil/didnt do it often enough.
just like how people dont understand how to properly do a fluch they also dont get why... its not an every oil change thing
You simply forget that 9/10 when buying a "used" car. The damage is already done due to lack of maintence. Most people within the past 2 years now (Covid spiking car prices) don't want to drop couple grand more to get a new car. A lease doesn't count unless you plan on buying it after the 3 yrs. I'm sure you get my point though.
What if you bought a used car? The cheap investment of this flush can help removing the deposits.
Your oil always gets darker the longer you drive it between oil changes. The oil that came out was barely used. Maybe halfway though its service life.. There were no clumps or bits of carbon that showed on your examples which shows the engine was in very good working order. The GDI engines are no stranger to getting buildup in the intake but as long as the seals and rings are good, the oil will only discolor from the heat it contends with. My 2002 pickups oil looks the same as your demonstration at every service interval. It's about changing oil regularly and on time if not a bit early. Ultimately, that is what will prevent premature wear and other issues in the long run
How many cans do I need for a V8 5.7litre Engine. Truck uses 8litres of oil.
Motomaster is actually good oil, its basically rebranded Pennzoil from Shell...💯👍
The more you know! Thanks for that!
You should try test with paper and dirty oil after second oil, it will be the same.
I just did it. And YES DO A SECOND WITH EXTRA FILTER.
My second oil was black.
Then finial oil and filter
Any oil will go brown or black after it reaches 00°, it don’t matter the 1 mile or 5k miles.. fit time it gets hot it goes brown!
I guess my car must be the exception to that rule :-)
Agree, Never judge the quality of oil on the color. You can do 10 oil changes and the oil will go darker after driving.
so u put the moli in before draining the old oil?
What's the point of doing 2 changes. Everyone says it's the proper way but the instructions literally tell you not to do it?
No point really, Instructions say one oil change - tech support says one oil change. I can see a benefit when buying a used car as the video shows.
He has no idea what he's doing, obviously. Manufacturer explained the instructions very clear, but some idiots think they're smartasses 🤣
For bmw engines, they also recommend 16,000km oil changes but will you follow that? Sometimes being extra sure is not a bad thing
@@n55morris14 In a performance setting ofc not but if I only commuted I would definitely go by the OCI interval. FYI the OCI interval adapts based on he quality of your oil. That said, your analogy does not apply at all.
@@JackRR15 how does my analogy not relate? I stated that going beyond what a manufacturer recommends is not a bad thing. You can do that, as the oil change intervals is also heavily influenced by rental car companies and having to do less warranty work. As companies who buy large amount of these cars wouldn't want to be doing oil changes often.
The Liqui Moly Oil would look like the cheaper Oil if you would drain it again. It would have a much better effect "Engine Cleaner + old Oil, then cheap Oil + Engine Cleaner and then the Oil you want to drive with ? Or am i wrong ?
And some liquimoly ceratec to go with it 😊.... That is if you aren't using liquimoly molygen
R u saying to flush it twice with liqui moly
What I recently had done, on my very regularly serviced car...... that I have owned since new,
Oil flush added to the "old" oil since it was still in good condition (not dark brown etc) and so still able to hold any contaminates in suspension.
After running it for the correct amount of time, drained the oil and changed the filter.
Added a cheaper oil to clear out any of the remaining flush detergents, ran car for enough time for that oil to get hot etc.
Drained that oil and changed the filter, followed by adding the good stuff (more expensive oil).
Although my car is very very well maintained, and theoretically didn't need a flush,
I decided to do it because that particular engine has low tension piston rings, and if they gum up they become jammed off centre,
Leading to the bore becoming damaged, and the rings not sealing followed by developing an oil consumption issue.
So whilst OTT, my choice was not without reason :-)
i do first drain oil and add chipp one with flash and replace with new oil
Very unsafe you should have used two jack stands and not one with a jack.
2 Jacks on the side and one jack stand at the center point. At the time I didn't own a jack strong/long enough to jack it from the center point
If I dont use engine flush oil, but I only use Motor oil + new filter to flush, would it work too ?
Yes perfectly fine. I was just recommended to do this as I just bought the car used
It's nicer to see what the old oil filter looks like, i.e. if it really removed the gunks in the engine. Otherwise it's a helpful video.
I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me the differences between liqui moli motor clean vs engine flush. Thank you very much.
I would look up the safety data sheets and see if the ingredients are listed.
Actually you messed up. You were supposed to get car up to operating temperature from driving around then flush and idle for 10 to 15
Any recommendations on where to buy extremely cheap oil? The cheapest I've found is the Kirkland 5W30 synthetic at Costco ($38 + tax for 10 quarts)
Mine was at Canadian Tire. Conventional. Even better if its on sale
Walmart! You can get their brand of 5w-30 oil super tech for $21. I got a gallon of Shell 5w-40 for $23 (I have a b8.5 Audi A4) just cuz it was only $2 more and it's actually oil that meets VW 505 standards on their yearly technical data sheets.. They have a sale going on you can get Valvoline, quaker state, Castrol GTX, and penzoil 5w-30 as low as $19.47 up to $26.97. Choice is up to you. Plenty of options. I'm never buying oil anywhere else.
Is no used Mannol ?
No need to do extra oil change, just put the new HQ oil and thats it.
Does that clean the vanos actuator/ solenoids?
I cannot comment on that as I know the solenoids have a screen themselves. However I know the solenoids aren't that expensive to replace
its safe to flush engine car??
Yes it is. Any "big" debris is drain
When old and high mileage. No need for new cars
U should have pulled the dip stick of the fresh oil cause that could be brown also
You mention German Parts, (and I gather you're in Canada... Canadian Tire...) Are they good to deal with?... Their prices for Liqui-Moly are very good, so I'm guessing you do... Any comments about them?... Also, I see you using Special Tec oil, and not Moly Gen... Any reason why?
Yes, German Parts are great to deal with. Never any hiccups and never an issue with shipping or pick up spots. With Special Tec, no specific reason. I know it's a LL-01 oil and my father using it In his BMW. If Moly Gen is better I am open to try that one.
how did this end up long term? I heard that theres a potential for more oil burning after this procedure
If you have an old engine, Carbon deposits may prevent or reduce oil burning because reduces the gap in a weared area.
when you flush it, the engine could burn some oil due to the removal of that layer of carbon deposits.
That said, all engines burn some oil, some more than others.
Dont worry too much, just check oil regularly and change it as often as you can.
Me personally gonna flush my ford fiesta engine tomorrow, first time in his first 93.000Km.
I am not planing in doing it regularly, only once each 40/50.000Km.
@@SiliconPower74 let me know how that goes
@@ViewsofTheVI I just did the oil change. I used the same liqui molly flush used in the video.
Engine already at operation temperature, stop, add the flush liquid, start engine and let it idle for 10min.
When the engine was idling. I didnt notice anything out, same sound and smell as always.
I let the engine drain the oil for almost an hour and added some new oil to help push the last of the old oil.
The old oil was pure black, it was only 13.000Km and 10 months old so I think the liqui molly did a good work.
Meanwhile I changed the oil filter and diesel filter.
I added the new Motul 8100 oil (I didnt flushed a second time like the video) and after adjusting the oil level, is running smooth.
In the next oil change I will buy some cheap ass mineral 5W30 to do a flush with it.
Engine still healthy. Did oil change yesterday and 6.5L on fill and 5.1L on drain with 9,000km change and being tuned for past 2 weeks. Regular oil burn amount as BMW allows 1 quart (0.946L) per 1200 kms
@@syphontoastie6265 what is wrong with you?
Yeah I have a Ford Fiesta and I like it a lot.
I hope you turned the heat and fan all the way up
But the product is AMAZING!
No need to jack your car up as your filter is on the top. Extract the oil though the dipstick and you don't have to rinse it, unless the Liqui Moly flush isn't that good.
Modern bmw engines do not have dip sticks. It says you don't have to rinse it but I prefer to rinse it
@@n55morris14 My Audi doesn't have a dipstick but still has a tube to the sump.
@@Boodieman72 bmw don't got that. And don't have an extractor
Bmw doesnt recommend… cause extraction acctually doesnt pull everytjing out
@@Mysohvaperuna It actually gets more out than when you use the drain plug. Where does BMW say it isn't recommended?
You should be using castrol euro oil. That's what the car recommends.
When on sale I'll give it a try
If the oil that he used meets the specifications of the manufacturer, the brand doesn't matter.
Just change your oil regularly and us a good quality oil and you'll never have to do an engine flush.
I know this is off topic, but you can’t take 5 min to cut your nails?
No
N all u need is 1min to shut up
Wrong Wrong Wrong you have done it the wrong way my friend. The correct way is. Drain the old oil which has been used for 5000mils 7000mils or 10,000mils. Drain that oil and pour in correct amount of cheap quality oil, replace the oil filter, pour in the flushing liquid, then run the engine 10-15 minutes. Drain the oil and change the filter and pour good quality engine oil. This is the correct way of flushing the engine 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Love from Morocco ❤
You do it wrong bro try this you drain the old oil n after put cheap new oil n engine flush n it will clean properly the engine trust me they do this technique in Arabia saudia n car ran forever
Use the whole bottle or just a half.
Whole bottle
@@n55morris14 Thanks!
For clean engine i use cheap sentetiс oil ...
Way overcomplicated. You put it in an engine that is already at full operating temperature, idle for 15 min, and change the oil. It's not rocket science and this is a pointless waste of oil.
He did it wrong! Should drain the old oil out first , then put cheap oil in with the Liqui Moly flush , runs for 10-15min , the flush it out. Last step is to pour Liqui Moly oil in.
Use diesel oil instead of gasoline/petrol and it cleans it's self.
U made a mistake. U first need to start the car and then put the Flush otherwise all your liquid goes down to the oil tank. I guess u didn't read well.
that funnel... looks like its for the ladies.
يا الهي اسود يقود BMW ماذا حدث للعالم ومن يزرع القطن الان ؟
انت انسان احمق و عنصري.كلام من واحد جاهل فقير ذهنيا.استحي علي نفسك.
انت مجنون؟؟
العنصرية سبب تخلف المجتمعات يا .....
@@thehandlebarstory8771 العالم اختل توازنه عندما اختلط العالم كل واحد يعيش بارضه احسن لاتزال الجرائم لحد الان بين البيض والسود بكل العالم يا ……
💯💯
Lmao
This is a waste of time and money.
Not if you have contaminants in your engine
You're rich.
You're wasting time and money.
Waste of time and money.
Is it some new world fashion for men to have such a long nails?
I think u should ask your girl friend that.
i cant wait til my BMW dealer does my oil after this. they will be like, WOW.. wtF?