Numerous viewers have commented about using the right tool for the job, which is something I didn't do. 😊 Instead, I used the tools I had available at the time (as one sometimes does). However, a set of tiny, tiny wrenches was subsequently procured, and these are linked in the description. When I ordered them a couple of months ago, they took a month to arrive. Shipping times have improved greatly since then!
Tiny wrenches are good, but sometimes nut drivers are better... P.S. Why not just use some super glue or a small bit of epoxy on the head of the screw to hold it in place? A bit of heat would help remove them if you ever needed to do so.
Thanks for the great video, I've done this as part of an upgrade spree - and started having trouble with bed heating. I've checked basically anything multiple times without any improvement. Then I've removed the nyloc nuts and one of them had nicked the insulation and had exposed the copper underneath. Fortunately that's an easy fix: I've added 4 strips of heat resistant insulation tape around each of the holes, which gives it a bit more padding and makes it less prone to scratches and fixed the short. I think it's good practice to do this preemptively.
Hey buddy, great Idea. I would also suggest, If not mentioned already, to also use a flat washer so as not to damaged the surface underneath should the nut start turning. If you use a slightly larger washer, the spring could also press against It and prevent said damage. Cheers :)
Great video. I had the same idea but I used a small black nylon washer, a M4 jam nut (they are thinner than regular nuts) a shouldered nylon washer on the top and bottom of the original spring (the proper size snaps right in). It puts more tension on the spring so it has the same effect as a stiffer spring, gives the spring "flats" to rest on, increases friction to hold adjustment but the best part is it only costs about 4 bucks and a trip to a local hardware store, so you're supporting local business and can get it same day.
Nice! An idea for those with a stick on surface that plan on not removing... Once the Nylock is in a bit as you explained take 2 normal nuts and thread them in and use one to lock the other. Once these two normal nuts are locked, you can tighten the Nylock nut with no fear of damaging the threads by using a pliers or wrench. The person can use their teeth to grip onto it but this is not Approved by the Dental Association :)
I did this ages ago before I saw this and I put fibre washers on between the nyloc nut and the print plate so that I didn't scratch the bottom of the plate and short out the wires.
Best mod I done . Print adjuster wheels with nyloc nuts .. still stock springs . And the bed hasn't needed adjustment since . The stock wheels are too.loose and rotate everytime u bump em or depress the bed a bit.
Hi Marcus! My MP Select Plus has nuts on the bed screws too, but I think they're the non-locking variety (not sure, I'd have to give it a close look). 😄
Bryan Big Big respect to you mate can't believe you've not got 1000snds of followers or subs you explain clear and properly not skip to this or that you stick to the addressed point clearly and cleanly so easy to follow brilliant mate keep it up
idk, i tried this a while back and it just seems to give you less clearance. and you will have to raise the break switch to compensate. also, anyone having wobbling issues check that there are washers on all four wheels for the bed. mine came without two washers on one side and the printer sat for two years until i decided to take a real at this thing. pissed me off when i found out why! if those washers are missing then the wheels bow out from the track when you tighten the nuts.
My experience with this on my Ender 3 Pro: TLDR; The nuts caused the screws to no longer line up with the mounting plate holes resulting in a huge effort wasted. Springs working great without the nuts. Screws don’t turn once springs are well compressed anyway. Getting the nylon screws on and off is a major chore no matter how you slice it. The nuts are 7mm hex and I can use a socket wrench for first few turns, but the screw starts colliding with the too-short socket requiring a regular wrench most of the way. 7mm wrenches seem hard to find, best I could do is adjustable wrench. I found the best way to grip the screw is with a folded paper towel and vise grips. Once I finally got all the nuts firmly against the bottom of the bed plate, they were then fixed standing straighter perpendicular to the plate where before they had wobble play. Turns out the holes in my mounting plate don’t exactly line up with the holes in the bed plate and the nuts forced the issue. Unscrewing the nuts a little gives back the play but defeats their whole purpose (screws can still spin). I even went so far as to try opening the through holes wider in the mounting plate by drilling with slightly higher diameter bits. I could tell that wasn’t working either and I got worried about ruining the stability of the bed. So I gave up on the nuts altogether. Using just the springs it was challenging to turn the knobs onto the screws at the beginning but I found I could just press the side of the spring hard against the screw to slightly stop it turning. Once the knobs are compressing the springs near the calibrated amount the screws no longer turn, so the nuts are not needed anyway. I’m a little upset how much time I spent messing with the nuts. I recommend skipping the nuts entirely.
This is exactly what I needed. I put the nylocks on two weeks ago, but I just caught them still moving a couple days ago. I thought i had them tight, but they're still moving. I wasn't sure if I should pierce the top of the bed or not and put a screw/hex in there to hold it, but now I will!
Hi Old Curmudgeon! Now that I think about it, two of the leveling knobs could be used the same way, and would probably be a lot easier to hold on to. Thanks for the suggestion! 👍
No your wonderful! Thanks for the great videos. I will say the yellow springs ( loosened) made my bed buckle in the middle. I had to revert back to my stock springs...I'll cut the yellow springs to size I think and see how it goes.
If I read your comment right, the reason the bed was bent was probably because you left one or two adjusters tightened while loosening the others, or the opposite, and the springs caused the bed to bend. They need to have the major adjustments done fairly equally while doing the initial installation and maybe even removal. Sounds like that was the problem, but can't be sure.
Just did this to my ender 3, haven't leveled the bed yet will do that in the morning, next thing I have to print is the lid for an enclosure and then a mount for a pi compatible Lcd touchscreen. Because well it's slowly becoming a modified voron switchwire. Got to have an external electronics enclosure. Got to.
after all nuts are on the screws no longer lined up with the bed brace. didn't work until I adjusted them all to be equally crooked enough (none were straight) that they all fit in. a bit janky, but I gotta say this helped a ton with leveling! first layer looking awesome now.
@@BV3D You can adjust them a little by tightening the bolts and they will compress as needed. Leveled it manually that way and then I use the TH3D ABL on top of that.
i have a Voxelab Aquila, an Ender 3 v2 clone essentially. I’ve noticed after 2-3 prints I’m having to level my bed again. I will definitely give this a go. Thanks my man!!
Before (or at the same time), be SURE to snug the POM rollers on the Y-axis. I wasted many bed-leveling sessions before I discovered THAT was my problem all along.
Great idea Bryan!!!,what do you think about the High Temperature Silicone Solid Spacer Hot Bed Leveling Column, instead of metal Springs? i saw yesterday @ aliexpress
Not sure if it's the Ender 3 V2 or the factory having variance in their machine drilling of the bed carriage. When i locked everything down tight, went to put the bed back on as in the video and rear left and right went in, but front left and right were outside the bolt holes by 1.018mm on each side for a total of 2.036mm variance. Guess it was just not meant to be.
I love you videos. Great positive energy I need while looking for answers to my 3d print problems! Complete quality all around but I mentioned positive energy because when I'm frantically looking for a fix to something on my ender 3 v2, I am pretty frustrated. Thank you Bryan!
Hi Bryan! Hate to be the oddball here, as this seems to be a great idea. However, let me relate one important observation from my experience attempting this mod with my Ender 3 pro. While I don't know the dimensions of the nylocks you list in the description, beyond being M4, the height of the nuts appears to be somewhat critical. I tried this with mod with M4 nylocks I picked up at the local True Value hardware store. These particular nylocks are 5mm in height. When combined with the yellow springs, there is little if any adjustment available, as simply putting the adjustment wheels onto the screws leaves the springs all but completely compressed. Indeed, the corner with the heater strain relief is completely compressed with the adjustment wheel just threaded on. Given this, it is virtually impossible to level the bed. I am open to suggestions, but right now I'm thinking about trying the original springs and/or replacing the bed screws with something around 5mm longer. The latter seems to be the best option overall. Again, open to suggestions... (Help?)
1:40 Hate to sound like one of THOSE guys, however, I believe that Nyloc is a trademarked term for nylon locking nuts, in the same way Plexiglass is a trademarked term (and brand name) for acrylic sheet stock.
My printer is not an ender 3 but it did suffer from the same problem so I did an upgrade very similar to yours not long after I got my printer and it made bed levelling much easier. My printer had M3 screws which I swapped out for some slightly longer ones which I secured with M3 nylock nuts. It had wing nuts for adjustment which I got rid of and replaced with my own design printed knobs with M3 nylock nuts inserted into them. The advantage of doing that is my adjusters don't unscrew themselves.
Great upgrade Bryan. I can only find my imperial adjustable C wrench at the moment, hopefully the metric one pops up soon. Hope you and your family are well and safe. Cheers and thanks for sharing!
Hi Thierry, and thanks! One of these days I'll learn that if I always put my tools away where they belong, I'll be able to find them later, when I need them! We're safe and sound so far, and I hope you and yours are the same. 😊
I did something similar to this (not my idea) but what I used were 1 nylon washer, 2 M4 nuts to lock to each other on the underside of the bed, Ditched the springs all together, and used a wing nut on top of the gantry and leveling wheels below the gantry. Made it a solid bed, once it's level it will never need adjustment again. Just be careful you don't drive your nozzle into the build surface.
Hey Bryan, hope all is well! Thank you for all the content and help you provide the community! In regards to upgrading to the yellow springs. I see many suggest to use silicone spacers instead of the springs. Curious your thoughts on this and if you have used them?
So really late comment, but I just installed this mod. It works perfectly but a warning to any with an Ender 3. The holes on the bottom plate do. Or perfectly align with the heater bed bolts. In addition to taking great care of to crack the heater bed, be careful inserting the heater bed back to the bottom plate. I had to loosen two nylon nuts, insert the heater bed, and then gently tiger the nylon nuts. It works, but it seems Creality relies on wobbly bolts to compensate for poorly aligned holes.
Hi Bryan, I will suggest to put a a washer (rubber) or other no conductive material before the nut, you can short the element, I use tap rubber washer, I a short.
When I saw the title I was kind of hoping you were going to show a video about getting rid of the springs. I have a BLTouch and I've been thinking about getting rid of the springs and replacing them with solid spacers, like on the Prusa machines. Seems like if you can get it relatively close then the BLTouch will compensate for the rest. One less thing to think about getting messed up between prints would be nice. Maybe an idea for a different video?
Definitely!. I still have that TH3D Studio EZABL I received in that mystery box a while back, so a video showing both the EZABL installation and swapping out for the solid spacers is a good video idea. Thanks! 👍
Do the yellow springs and the nylock nuts sit perfectly next to each other, so the springs are pushing on the nut instead of the bed, or do the nuts go in between the spring?
A great idea right up to the point where the increased friction caused the bolts holding the bed to come loose and spin. Now I'm ending up with a good chance of stripping them trying to get the nuts off.
So, whenever I try to put the nut on the screw, it won’t go further then with the screw bottom flush with the bottom of the nut. Am I doing something wrong?
The Nyloc nuts have a nylon ring inside that isn't threaded. The ring is a slightly smaller diameter than the screw. So it takes some effort to get the screws through it. But that's kind of the point of them: They hold pretty tight onto the screws.
Hi Ken, the warning was more to just be aware of their presence. A light scratch on the paint shouldn't hurt anything, but a ham-fisted slip-up with a wrench could do some damage. The traces are reasonably thick, and the trace pattern actually leaves a bit of a margin around the holes. I don't think a nylon washer would be strictly necessary, but it certainly wouldn't hurt. 👍
Use a closed-end wrench (or even a ratchet with a deep socket) on the nut, and you shouldn't need to worry about cutting the traces. After you get the nnut to about 3mm away from the bed, turn the screw instead of the wrench/socket.
I'm definitely going to do this. Probably wont use nylock nuts though. I already have regular M4 nuts and blue loc-tite. Boom. Bob's you uncle. Nice video though!
Adding the nut makes the springs basically bottom out. Mines just above that bottoming out point. Had to fully tighten so the nozzle didn’t hit the bed with auto home. Do like the idea tho.
The center of my 310 mm sq bed has a screw. A fifth element... It is fixed and the bed leveling starts at the center and the corners are set to match. But it only goes deeper. I need to put a spring under it so that it will go positive Z as well, so I can set them all to each other better and with more adjustment range. They look small but they square spring is the right stuff for the stiffness desired. I will likely get the 10 pack.
Hi! Yes, it's entirely possible to print the nuts. There's a comment from 3D Jimmy where he says he did exactly that. I'm not sure what material he used to print them, but they would probably need to withstand at least 90˚C temps for extended periods, depending on how hot you usually run the bed. 😀
Thanks for the video. I just got my springs and some new red fancy wheels to add. Mine had no nuts to start now that they are on there the strain relief will not go back on not enough screw left. I don't recommend using pliers it's way to hard. I'm sure I damaged my underside
My Ender3 Pro came with the magnetic sheet already attached to the bed, covering the screw heads. Is it OK to make a little cut in that so I can fit a screwdriver to the screw head?
I'll be turning my Ender 5 Pro bed into a 3 point adjustment bed by removing two of the adjustment screws on one side, drilling a new hole between the holes for the removed screws (making sure to not nick the traces) and use one of the screws there. A corresponding hole will be drilled in the bed support plate for the screw. This allows easier leveling without adding uneven forces to the bed through an extra unnecessary 4th screw.
Ah, that sounds cool. I've heard it said, "Three points define a plane. Four points define a Pringle™." I've seen three point leveling kits for the Ender 3, as well. Good luck, and let me know how that turns out! 👍
@@BV3D It might take me a little while to do that, but I'll try remember. First I'm going to try and wet sand my bed flat to get rid of as much warping as possible. I was considering buying a machined one from gulf coast robotics, but they only guarantee +-.2mm so I'd rather try flatten my own vs. $50 for that.
I have done this but now the bed is way to high and the knobs can't lower it to side a paper under the nozzle, how can I raise the Z Axle and keep it there?
HELLO THERE 3D PRINTING FRIEND. I DID ABOUT THE SAME THING ON MY ENDER 2, BUT I 3D PRINTED THE NUTS WITH AN INTEGRAL SPRING SEAT BUILT IN. GOOD HEALTH TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Hu Bryan, my ender3 might actually need this, already replaced stock springs, moved Z stop slightly up to accommodate raised bed but still after every print, have to relevel the bed. I also lroceedes to tighten all the nuts under the bed, including the two eccentric ones, yet same old same. I already ordered a BLtouch kit to automate the levelling, can't take it anymore lol. However I am tempted to try this one as well but only worry is additiin of these nuts will further move the Z axis a bit higher thus shortening available printing space in Z axis.
This guide is pretty interesting. I'll have to give it a try with my Kingroon KP3S 3.0 printer when I get the required items. However...what if, between the Heated Bed and the Nylock nuts, we add 4 nylon flat washers? Wouldn't that reduce the risk of damaging the Heated Bed? 🤔
How about a small drop of silicone on top of each bolt... just enough to sit above the surface of the bed. Then, if using a glass top, the glass will push down on the silicone and basically friction will prevent the bolts from turning. Shame Ender wasn't smarter and used hex head bolts and a hax shaped countersink, then the bolts won't be able to turn at all.
Wow that's a lot of nuts. Kidding aside I have an Ender3 v2 with the yellow springs already in place, bed leveling still keeping me nuts coz the be keeps not in place after I adjusted it. Thanks alot for the advice.
I've played with this question a lot. I have to keep my springs a tad loose or my bed will become "warped" in the middle. Stock springs work fine for me...yellow is bad for me.
I just picked up a used ender 3 pro and I feel that something is bent on the bed area. Even after adjusting the bed using the paper method which I've done several times the nozzle in some spots don't make contact or scrapes the bed.
What you recommend to make a little better the adhesion? I Have a Ender 3 pro, and I have problems in one special corner of the bed, I think is more cold, BR
Are you sure about the bolts I went and got some m4s like the link said but they will not go very far on the screws at all paying the butt slice my finger open trying to get them off
So, Bryan, is there a video showing the thing id of the part holding your spool forward like in this video. BTW, Keep on with the amazing content, loving it!
Hi! I don't know why these aren't bolted down like this from the factory, but between the nuts and the better springs, this bed really seems to be staying put. 👍
Interesting approche I Have A ABL, and would like to LOCk the bed height study. with some rubber-spacer Do you know where to find them? Thanks for sharing :-)
Hi! I know of a couple of places you could get solid mount kits. These are affiliate links: • TH3D Studio Solid Mount Kits: www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10solidmounts/?share=bkvines&campaign=SolidBedMounts • Solid Bed Mount Kits on Amazon: amzn.to/3b8tRQj
So I followed the directions, but even when the springs are completely suppressed, the nozzle goes below the bed and I can't lower the bed any more than it currently is. Did I miss a step?
Near the end of the video, he mentioned that you may need to raise the Z-stop switch to compensate for the added thickness of the nuts and the stiffer springs. Try that.
Numerous viewers have commented about using the right tool for the job, which is something I didn't do. 😊 Instead, I used the tools I had available at the time (as one sometimes does). However, a set of tiny, tiny wrenches was subsequently procured, and these are linked in the description.
When I ordered them a couple of months ago, they took a month to arrive. Shipping times have improved greatly since then!
Tiny wrenches are good, but sometimes nut drivers are better...
P.S. Why not just use some super glue or a small bit of epoxy on the head of the screw to hold it in place?
A bit of heat would help remove them if you ever needed to do so.
@@TrojanHorse1959 but the bead is heated, doesn't that crate a problem?
@@jtcmlt1, So far it has not been a problem. Mine have been "glued" in for several months now.
@@TrojanHorse1959 Okay, thank you. I was just confused because you said that a little heat would help remove them. I am going to try.
@@jtcmlt1, Yeah, sorry. I should have said a bit more heat from a torch would help remove them. Best of luck to you.
The fact that the unit ships without these nuts is nuts!! TY for help
Thanks for the great video, I've done this as part of an upgrade spree - and started having trouble with bed heating. I've checked basically anything multiple times without any improvement. Then I've removed the nyloc nuts and one of them had nicked the insulation and had exposed the copper underneath. Fortunately that's an easy fix: I've added 4 strips of heat resistant insulation tape around each of the holes, which gives it a bit more padding and makes it less prone to scratches and fixed the short. I think it's good practice to do this preemptively.
Hey buddy, great Idea. I would also suggest, If not mentioned already, to also use a flat washer so as not to damaged the surface underneath should the nut start turning. If you use a slightly larger washer, the spring could also press against It and prevent said damage. Cheers :)
I use silicón washer in both side of the spring
Great video.
I had the same idea but I used a small black nylon washer, a M4 jam nut (they are thinner than regular nuts) a shouldered nylon washer on the top and bottom of the original spring (the proper size snaps right in). It puts more tension on the spring so it has the same effect as a stiffer spring, gives the spring "flats" to rest on, increases friction to hold adjustment but the best part is it only costs about 4 bucks and a trip to a local hardware store, so you're supporting local business and can get it same day.
good video Bryon. I did this to my Ender 3 a few months ago to stop bed continuing to loosen itself, Just with this my bed stayed accurate a while
Thanks Mark! An accurate bed is a happy bed! 👍
Nice! An idea for those with a stick on surface that plan on not removing... Once the Nylock is in a bit as you explained take 2 normal nuts and thread them in and use one to lock the other. Once these two normal nuts are locked, you can tighten the Nylock nut with no fear of damaging the threads by using a pliers or wrench. The person can use their teeth to grip onto it but this is not Approved by the Dental Association :)
I did this ages ago before I saw this and I put fibre washers on between the nyloc nut and the print plate so that I didn't scratch the bottom of the plate and short out the wires.
Thanks bryan! My ender 3 bed is driving me nutts, gonna give this a try!
Hi Andrew! Let me know how it goes! 😀
Best mod I done . Print adjuster wheels with nyloc nuts .. still stock springs . And the bed hasn't needed adjustment since . The stock wheels are too.loose and rotate everytime u bump em or depress the bed a bit.
Nylock nuts in the adjuster wheels is a great idea. 👍
This is a great idea. My old MP Select V2 actually came with those nuts. My CR-10 and Ender 3 both need these.
Hi Marcus! My MP Select Plus has nuts on the bed screws too, but I think they're the non-locking variety (not sure, I'd have to give it a close look). 😄
Bryan Big Big respect to you mate can't believe you've not got 1000snds of followers or subs you explain clear and properly not skip to this or that you stick to the addressed point clearly and cleanly so easy to follow brilliant mate keep it up
idk, i tried this a while back and it just seems to give you less clearance. and you will have to raise the break switch to compensate. also, anyone having wobbling issues check that there are washers on all four wheels for the bed. mine came without two washers on one side and the printer sat for two years until i decided to take a real at this thing. pissed me off when i found out why! if those washers are missing then the wheels bow out from the track when you tighten the nuts.
My experience with this on my Ender 3 Pro:
TLDR; The nuts caused the screws to no longer line up with the mounting plate holes resulting in a huge effort wasted. Springs working great without the nuts. Screws don’t turn once springs are well compressed anyway.
Getting the nylon screws on and off is a major chore no matter how you slice it. The nuts are 7mm hex and I can use a socket wrench for first few turns, but the screw starts colliding with the too-short socket requiring a regular wrench most of the way. 7mm wrenches seem hard to find, best I could do is adjustable wrench. I found the best way to grip the screw is with a folded paper towel and vise grips.
Once I finally got all the nuts firmly against the bottom of the bed plate, they were then fixed standing straighter perpendicular to the plate where before they had wobble play. Turns out the holes in my mounting plate don’t exactly line up with the holes in the bed plate and the nuts forced the issue. Unscrewing the nuts a little gives back the play but defeats their whole purpose (screws can still spin). I even went so far as to try opening the through holes wider in the mounting plate by drilling with slightly higher diameter bits. I could tell that wasn’t working either and I got worried about ruining the stability of the bed. So I gave up on the nuts altogether.
Using just the springs it was challenging to turn the knobs onto the screws at the beginning but I found I could just press the side of the spring hard against the screw to slightly stop it turning. Once the knobs are compressing the springs near the calibrated amount the screws no longer turn, so the nuts are not needed anyway. I’m a little upset how much time I spent messing with the nuts. I recommend skipping the nuts entirely.
This is exactly what I needed. I put the nylocks on two weeks ago, but I just caught them still moving a couple days ago. I thought i had them tight, but they're still moving. I wasn't sure if I should pierce the top of the bed or not and put a screw/hex in there to hold it, but now I will!
Once the nyloc nut is maybe 1/3 on you could tighten 2 regular nuts together to hold while you tighten the nyloc.
Hi Old Curmudgeon! Now that I think about it, two of the leveling knobs could be used the same way, and would probably be a lot easier to hold on to. Thanks for the suggestion! 👍
what a great guide! I have been doing this for all of my printers, its nuts!
Haha! Thanks, Peter! 😀
No your wonderful! Thanks for the great videos. I will say the yellow springs ( loosened) made my bed buckle in the middle. I had to revert back to my stock springs...I'll cut the yellow springs to size I think and see how it goes.
If I read your comment right, the reason the bed was bent was probably because you left one or two adjusters tightened while loosening the others, or the opposite, and the springs caused the bed to bend. They need to have the major adjustments done fairly equally while doing the initial installation and maybe even removal. Sounds like that was the problem, but can't be sure.
@@stevemullens7937 Thank you for the reply, I went with a three point mount for the bed and all is well now. Have a great day!
Thanks for all the great advice
Just did this to my ender 3, haven't leveled the bed yet will do that in the morning, next thing I have to print is the lid for an enclosure and then a mount for a pi compatible Lcd touchscreen. Because well it's slowly becoming a modified voron switchwire. Got to have an external electronics enclosure. Got to.
after all nuts are on the screws no longer lined up with the bed brace. didn't work until I adjusted them all to be equally crooked enough (none were straight) that they all fit in. a bit janky, but I gotta say this helped a ton with leveling! first layer looking awesome now.
After I put my glass bed back on, how do I level and adjust my z limit switch?
You have to re-align the z-limit switch by moving it manually and retighten the screws on this piece assuming that you are not using the BL-Touch mod
I got rid of the springs and wheels and just use silicone spacers. Haven't had to touch the bed alignment in months.
Interesting. Tell me more! 🤔 Are the spacers bolted down, and non-adjustable? And are you doing this in conjunction with a bed probe?
@@BV3D You can adjust them a little by tightening the bolts and they will compress as needed. Leveled it manually that way and then I use the TH3D ABL on top of that.
@@foxsquirrelz Wouldn't the ABL be doing 99% of the work?
i have a Voxelab Aquila, an Ender 3 v2 clone essentially. I’ve noticed after 2-3 prints I’m having to level my bed again. I will definitely give this a go. Thanks my man!!
Before (or at the same time), be SURE to snug the POM rollers on the Y-axis. I wasted many bed-leveling sessions before I discovered THAT was my problem all along.
Great idea Bryan!!!,what do you think about the High Temperature Silicone Solid Spacer Hot Bed Leveling Column, instead of metal Springs? i saw yesterday @ aliexpress
Not sure if it's the Ender 3 V2 or the factory having variance in their machine drilling of the bed carriage. When i locked everything down tight, went to put the bed back on as in the video and rear left and right went in, but front left and right were outside the bolt holes by 1.018mm on each side for a total of 2.036mm variance. Guess it was just not meant to be.
I love you videos. Great positive energy I need while looking for answers to my 3d print problems! Complete quality all around but I mentioned positive energy because when I'm frantically looking for a fix to something on my ender 3 v2, I am pretty frustrated. Thank you Bryan!
Hi Bryan!
Hate to be the oddball here, as this seems to be a great idea. However, let me relate one important observation from my experience attempting this mod with my Ender 3 pro.
While I don't know the dimensions of the nylocks you list in the description, beyond being M4, the height of the nuts appears to be somewhat critical.
I tried this with mod with M4 nylocks I picked up at the local True Value hardware store. These particular nylocks are 5mm in height. When combined with the yellow springs, there is little if any adjustment available, as simply putting the adjustment wheels onto the screws leaves the springs all but completely compressed. Indeed, the corner with the heater strain relief is completely compressed with the adjustment wheel just threaded on. Given this, it is virtually impossible to level the bed.
I am open to suggestions, but right now I'm thinking about trying the original springs and/or replacing the bed screws with something around 5mm longer. The latter seems to be the best option overall.
Again, open to suggestions... (Help?)
What if I put nuts under the wheels after I level it? To keep the wheels from coming or of place?
Wonderful idea. Thanks for sharing.
Good video. Might be easier to use a normal nut, then another normal nut on top of that acting as a lock nut.
1:40 Hate to sound like one of THOSE guys, however, I believe that Nyloc is a trademarked term for nylon locking nuts, in the same way Plexiglass is a trademarked term (and brand name) for acrylic sheet stock.
My printer is not an ender 3 but it did suffer from the same problem so I did an upgrade very similar to yours not long after I got my printer and it made bed levelling much easier. My printer had M3 screws which I swapped out for some slightly longer ones which I secured with M3 nylock nuts. It had wing nuts for adjustment which I got rid of and replaced with my own design printed knobs with M3 nylock nuts inserted into them. The advantage of doing that is my adjusters don't unscrew themselves.
Great upgrade Bryan. I can only find my imperial adjustable C wrench at the moment, hopefully the metric one pops up soon. Hope you and your family are well and safe. Cheers and thanks for sharing!
Hi Thierry, and thanks! One of these days I'll learn that if I always put my tools away where they belong, I'll be able to find them later, when I need them! We're safe and sound so far, and I hope you and yours are the same. 😊
Imperial *adjustable* wrench! LOL 😆 That’s a good one!
Hi Bryan, where can I find the same spool holder as you? Thank you!
Any luck
Yes please share the side spool holder
I did something similar to this (not my idea) but what I used were 1 nylon washer, 2 M4 nuts to lock to each other on the underside of the bed, Ditched the springs all together, and used a wing nut on top of the gantry and leveling wheels below the gantry. Made it a solid bed, once it's level it will never need adjustment again. Just be careful you don't drive your nozzle into the build surface.
filament holder on the left side? hmm. first time seeing this.
is it better?
Nice video Bryan. I’m sure this video will be a great help to Ender 3 owners.
Thank you, Corey Mac! You're awesome. 😉
Do you need to take the power supply spacer off in the rear left corner? Or can this be done with care and leaving it secured?
Hey Bryan, hope all is well! Thank you for all the content and help you provide the community!
In regards to upgrading to the yellow springs. I see many suggest to use silicone spacers instead of the springs. Curious your thoughts on this and if you have used them?
Another awesome video
Would a metal nut with a nylon washers be suitable ?
That should work too. The nylon can take the heat.
Keep them videos coming! I love the details and camera angels. Got me subscribed 👏
So really late comment, but I just installed this mod. It works perfectly but a warning to any with an Ender 3. The holes on the bottom plate do. Or perfectly align with the heater bed bolts. In addition to taking great care of to crack the heater bed, be careful inserting the heater bed back to the bottom plate. I had to loosen two nylon nuts, insert the heater bed, and then gently tiger the nylon nuts. It works, but it seems Creality relies on wobbly bolts to compensate for poorly aligned holes.
Thanks for this! Quite useful!
Thumbs up 👍🏻 clear and precise
Bryan I like what you do all in great information...thanks...
Hi Tom! Thank you! 😀
Hi Bryan, I will suggest to put a a washer (rubber) or other no conductive material before the nut, you can short the element, I
use tap rubber washer, I a short.
When I saw the title I was kind of hoping you were going to show a video about getting rid of the springs. I have a BLTouch and I've been thinking about getting rid of the springs and replacing them with solid spacers, like on the Prusa machines. Seems like if you can get it relatively close then the BLTouch will compensate for the rest. One less thing to think about getting messed up between prints would be nice. Maybe an idea for a different video?
Definitely!. I still have that TH3D Studio EZABL I received in that mystery box a while back, so a video showing both the EZABL installation and swapping out for the solid spacers is a good video idea. Thanks! 👍
Do the yellow springs and the nylock nuts sit perfectly next to each other, so the springs are pushing on the nut instead of the bed, or do the nuts go in between the spring?
Thank you, 👍😎👍, stay well
Thanks, cosmo! Staying well here so far, hoping you're doing the same! 👍
A great idea right up to the point where the increased friction caused the bolts holding the bed to come loose and spin. Now I'm ending up with a good chance of stripping them trying to get the nuts off.
Keep up the good work
Thank you, Paul! 👍
How you do the silicone bed levelers for the ender 3v2
So, whenever I try to put the nut on the screw, it won’t go further then with the screw bottom flush with the bottom of the nut. Am I doing something wrong?
The Nyloc nuts have a nylon ring inside that isn't threaded. The ring is a slightly smaller diameter than the screw. So it takes some effort to get the screws through it. But that's kind of the point of them: They hold pretty tight onto the screws.
Given the concern with cutting the heating traces, would a thin nylon washer that goes between the nylok and the bed be in order?
Hi Ken, the warning was more to just be aware of their presence. A light scratch on the paint shouldn't hurt anything, but a ham-fisted slip-up with a wrench could do some damage. The traces are reasonably thick, and the trace pattern actually leaves a bit of a margin around the holes. I don't think a nylon washer would be strictly necessary, but it certainly wouldn't hurt. 👍
Use a closed-end wrench (or even a ratchet with a deep socket) on the nut, and you shouldn't need to worry about cutting the traces. After you get the nnut to about 3mm away from the bed, turn the screw instead of the wrench/socket.
I'm definitely going to do this. Probably wont use nylock nuts though. I already have regular M4 nuts and blue loc-tite. Boom. Bob's you uncle. Nice video though!
Adding the nut makes the springs basically bottom out. Mines just above that bottoming out point.
Had to fully tighten so the nozzle didn’t hit the bed with auto home.
Do like the idea tho.
The center of my 310 mm sq bed has a screw. A fifth element... It is fixed and the bed leveling starts at the center and the corners are set to match. But it only goes deeper. I need to put a spring under it so that it will go positive Z as well, so I can set them all to each other better and with more adjustment range. They look small but they square spring is the right stuff for the stiffness desired. I will likely get the 10 pack.
Just occured to me could we print the nuts? Great video, love the phone in the background you didn't get that from apple
Hi! Yes, it's entirely possible to print the nuts. There's a comment from 3D Jimmy where he says he did exactly that. I'm not sure what material he used to print them, but they would probably need to withstand at least 90˚C temps for extended periods, depending on how hot you usually run the bed. 😀
Thanks for the video. I just got my springs and some new red fancy wheels to add. Mine had no nuts to start now that they are on there the strain relief will not go back on not enough screw left. I don't recommend using pliers it's way to hard. I'm sure I damaged my underside
nothing to do with the video, but i really like the way you've mounted your spool here.
Does this work with silicone bed supports?
PSA: This 'mod' is largely applicable to many 3DPs, including almost all 'i3-style' machines circa 2012-2018.
My Ender3 Pro came with the magnetic sheet already attached to the bed, covering the screw heads. Is it OK to make a little cut in that so I can fit a screwdriver to the screw head?
thats what I did, worked great.
I'll be turning my Ender 5 Pro bed into a 3 point adjustment bed by removing two of the adjustment screws on one side, drilling a new hole between the holes for the removed screws (making sure to not nick the traces) and use one of the screws there. A corresponding hole will be drilled in the bed support plate for the screw. This allows easier leveling without adding uneven forces to the bed through an extra unnecessary 4th screw.
Ah, that sounds cool. I've heard it said, "Three points define a plane. Four points define a Pringle™." I've seen three point leveling kits for the Ender 3, as well. Good luck, and let me know how that turns out! 👍
@@BV3D It might take me a little while to do that, but I'll try remember. First I'm going to try and wet sand my bed flat to get rid of as much warping as possible. I was considering buying a machined one from gulf coast robotics, but they only guarantee +-.2mm so I'd rather try flatten my own vs. $50 for that.
I have done this but now the bed is way to high and the knobs can't lower it to side a paper under the nozzle, how
can I raise the Z Axle and keep it there?
Will have to give this a try
HELLO THERE 3D PRINTING FRIEND. I DID ABOUT THE SAME THING ON MY ENDER 2, BUT I 3D PRINTED THE NUTS WITH AN INTEGRAL SPRING SEAT BUILT IN. GOOD HEALTH TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
That's cool, Jimmy! What kind of filament did you print them with? 👍
@@BV3D tpu
I bought the nuts and springs. Currently putting on the lock nuts.
Oh my GOd the nuts are tight. They really do not want to move up the screw.
Ceramic Tube Wiring do you this that should replace springs?
Hu Bryan, my ender3 might actually need this, already replaced stock springs, moved Z stop slightly up to accommodate raised bed but still after every print, have to relevel the bed. I also lroceedes to tighten all the nuts under the bed, including the two eccentric ones, yet same old same. I already ordered a BLtouch kit to automate the levelling, can't take it anymore lol.
However I am tempted to try this one as well but only worry is additiin of these nuts will further move the Z axis a bit higher thus shortening available printing space in Z axis.
This guide is pretty interesting. I'll have to give it a try with my Kingroon KP3S 3.0 printer when I get the required items.
However...what if, between the Heated Bed and the Nylock nuts, we add 4 nylon flat washers? Wouldn't that reduce the risk of damaging the Heated Bed? 🤔
How about a small drop of silicone on top of each bolt... just enough to sit above the surface of the bed. Then, if using a glass top, the glass will push down on the silicone and basically friction will prevent the bolts from turning. Shame Ender wasn't smarter and used hex head bolts and a hax shaped countersink, then the bolts won't be able to turn at all.
Meh, manufacturing costs
Wow that's a lot of nuts. Kidding aside I have an Ender3 v2 with the yellow springs already in place, bed leveling still keeping me nuts coz the be keeps not in place after I adjusted it. Thanks alot for the advice.
Great video Bryan stay safe my friend
Thanks, Tim! You keep safe and healthy too! 👍
In the UK the best go to for your hardware ie small nuts bolts is screwfix if not in stock at your local they will get them next day for you
Newbie here. After putting new spring on. How tight to do the wheels up before start levering. Cheers
I've played with this question a lot. I have to keep my springs a tad loose or my bed will become "warped" in the middle. Stock springs work fine for me...yellow is bad for me.
I just picked up a used ender 3 pro and I feel that something is bent on the bed area. Even after adjusting the bed using the paper method which I've done several times the nozzle in some spots don't make contact or scrapes the bed.
Possible to do this with the standard springs?
I just turn the knob in small fast increments and the screw doesn't have time to turn.
Advice - use the right tools for the job. DO NOT use pliers of any kind. Use a wrench and a screw driver.
That is good advice, and tiny, tiny wrenches were subsequently procured. They just took a month to arrive. 😊
@@BV3D - One word - "Lowe's". :)
jsimmonstx 😅 😁
What you recommend to make a little better the adhesion? I Have a Ender 3 pro, and I have problems in one special corner of the bed, I think is more cold, BR
Are you sure about the bolts I went and got some m4s like the link said but they will not go very far on the screws at all paying the butt slice my finger open trying to get them off
So, Bryan, is there a video showing the thing id of the part holding your spool forward like in this video. BTW, Keep on with the amazing content, loving it!
cool idea, thanks! (better than dipping parts in loctite!)
Where can I find that extruder head part cooler you are using?
I did this for my Cr10S Pro. I bought better springs as well.
Hi! I don't know why these aren't bolted down like this from the factory, but between the nuts and the better springs, this bed really seems to be staying put. 👍
@@BV3D one reason is to better absorb the bed deformation after higher bed temperatures
Do you have a link to the bed leveling gcode that you use?
I have been doing this by hand.
Hi yrath! I use Peter Solomon’s Ender 3 Level G-code file. You can get it here: bit.ly/2XOlxhq
@@BV3D thank you very much Bryan, that is very helpful!
Would it be useful with an Ender 5 ? Thanks.
I have received ender 3 3d printer. In bed spring There 4 springs in that one smaller then all? It's good or not…
Do they work with Ender 3 v2 glass bed?
hi, i cant understand what is this for.
I found it easier (and cheaper) to just put a drop of Krazy Glue under each screw head.
This mod may be nuts, but glue? That’s KRAZY! 😉 (and also a cool idea). Thanks for sharing!
brilliant!
Interesting approche
I Have A ABL, and would like to LOCk the bed height study. with some rubber-spacer
Do you know where to find them?
Thanks for sharing :-)
Hi! I know of a couple of places you could get solid mount kits. These are affiliate links:
• TH3D Studio Solid Mount Kits: www.th3dstudio.com/product/cr-10solidmounts/?share=bkvines&campaign=SolidBedMounts
• Solid Bed Mount Kits on Amazon: amzn.to/3b8tRQj
So I followed the directions, but even when the springs are completely suppressed, the nozzle goes below the bed and I can't lower the bed any more than it currently is. Did I miss a step?
Near the end of the video, he mentioned that you may need to raise the Z-stop switch to compensate for the added thickness of the nuts and the stiffer springs. Try that.
maybe lift the z position limit switch for a couple mms by loosening 2 screws like i did on my ender 2pro
I've had my knobs on my bed vibrate off multiple times during a print and that is very irritating because then the print almost always fails
I’m having trouble getting my bed low enough. Even with stock springs
Raise the z-stop so when the printer homes it stops at a higher z position.
This will work for the CR10s but my Z end stop isn’t adjustable any tips on making it adjustable?
Thank you