My Oxford Radial Tank never ran and has spent years unused in a cupboard. Disgraceful that manufacturers can get away with producing useless stuff like this. You've inspired me to have another go at getting it operational.
Hi SAM I noticed the drive wheels had a slight slip on take off, I had this problem with early ADAMS and found a cure , the rear bogies dont have any up/down movement and I removed the axel assy and lightly deepened the axel bearings and this seemed to remedy the problem. I watch your episodes with interest from Australia,,
00 Bill did some good work on one of these seemed part of their problem was the type of lube on the gear appeared to be like wax rather than grease. They do have their problems I managed to get one that seems fine runs well and no issues. Poor Sam seems to pick up some duff models from time to time anyway makes for entertaining viewing!
Sam. When you do services to your engines, it’s like giving them coffee. It make people work like machines and you are the barista of model trains’ coffees. And those Adams Tanks, I bet. They’re screaming as they are dancing away after their coffee (after their motors is fixed). Thank you Sam for much of a experience. I enjoyed many parts of it.
Well done! Thanks so much Sam, from Canada. Although I am over 80 years old I have decided to get my rolling stock collection out of the mothballs and keep going. I'll keep watching you and picking up your important tips regarding my end-ever, wish me luck and happy trails.P
Hi Paul, I too am in Canada. I live on the west coast. I got my first OO train set for Christmas in 1957. And it still gives joy to see it running. Cheers.
I literally bought one of these for 74 bucks a few days ago and haven't had it shipped yet. Absolutely perfect timing Sam! Can't wait to get that model workin better than ever
There seem to be different 'batches' of these engines. I have a factory ESU-sound fitted model and apart from servicing and correcting the vertical bogie play it still runs fine. But always great to see repairs in case of... Thanks for sharing Sam. Cheers, Filip
It's always a great feeling to bring a poorly running loco out of early retirement and give it a new life. Very rewarding, indeed, Sam. Thanks as uaual for sharing your experience and knowledge. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Hi Sam. Great video. I have the EKR version which also runs really slow. Is there an option to get the adaptor for those of us without 3D printers? Cheers.
Good video here Sam, amazes me how some people including yourself sometimes can call manufactures like heljan poor but with Oxford they have in my eye produced even poorer models and that is just shown in this video, the adams is probably the worst locomotive I have seen for problems and it really shows Oxford poor quality of their products, good to see these locomotives working again.
Heljan and Oxford are a different sort of poor - in my opinion Heljan are fundamentally poor from a design point of view, Oxford are poor due to some unfortunate motor choices and minor design issues! With a decent motor, I'd take Oxford locos over Heljan any day! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I suppose we will have to agree to disagree on that, my experience of heljan compared to yours has been far better and i don’t consider them to be fundamentally poor based on my own experiences of new and second hand models from them and what I have seen, to be honest I would much rather have a heljan model instead of an Oxford model, if we’re talking in terms of motors heljan fit much better motors to their models than Oxford do, we both have our own opinions though.
It takes a lot to beat Heljan Clayton 17 which completely failed much like the real thing . Add to that the infernal buffers to get off to get body off and it really is a coaster . I’ve got lots of good Heljan models but they produce some pups too
How could such big companies sell such faulty models? Disgraceful! Now, try to fix Heljan's 301 13xx class Saddle Tank (I think that's what it's called I forgot)
The loco is the disgraceful Heljan 1361 tank. I would love to see Sam rip into it and fix it actually. But it is such a big meme for how bad it is in every way so i wouldn’t mind letting it die.
@@sableveil Well When he reviewed the 1361 he couldn’t access the motor. But I would really like to see what the model would be like if he replaced the motor. Buy the whole model was a mess cosmetically so even if he solved the poor running.
Thanks for sharing your video and expertise Sam. I only wish I had your knowledge and experience in repairing and maintaining your models as I remain clueless on these matters 😁
I had a similar problem with an Oxford N7. I fitted a motor from Tramfabriek, more expensive than your ebay one but still reasonable. The Oxford worm fitted straight onto the shaft and the motor was a direct fit. No modifications required and it now runs perfectly.
More! More! More! Great video Sam thank you I love this kind of video where people pass on knowledge by showing others how to fix things 👍👍👍👍 Speaking of locos not working properly 😁I had a loco that when I tested it the motor ran stopped ran stopped it took five of these stop starts for the wheels to make one rotation (it had a 5 pole motor) but when I sent it back they said that when they tested it it worked fine??? I didn't think to try a new decoder until after I had returned it, but they seem to think it's my ECOS controller but I have a lot of locos and never seen this problem before. keep the videos coming especially this type.👍👍👍👍
It seems to me like there are a couple of issues. The original motor brushes are potentially on the soft side and leaving a carbon deposit between the brushes and poles on the commutator, which leads to the warmup problems and need to run a bit before it frees up, and also an excessively thin resin coating on the windings leading to shorts bypassing part of the coils, reducing torque. Basically down to cheap materials manufactured to poor tolerances.
I’ve been tempted by these given the price they’re going for at some retailers but I recently bought a Hornby Lyme Regis train pack which runs perfectly. Glad I waited.
Hi Sam ,, I think that maybe the noise is from the alignment of where the motor is to the universal joint so maybe if you lift it up a tad at the uni joint end and make it as straight as as you can in line with the gearbox shafts and stick some silicone grease in the uni joints that should quieten it down at least errr well maybe haha. Cheers from John in Australia
I saw Jennifer Kirk reviewing the updated Oxford rail Adams radial (3250) .. she seemed to think they’d addressed the motor criticisms, couldn’t really tell myself. Have you thought of having a new go. Enjoying the vids, great work
Thank s Sam, I got a EKR loco cheap here in Australia, it went for 15 minutes and hasnt moved for more than 5cm since. I am at a end, if removing motor and changing it works, I will have to get some extreme help. I have been so dis appointed I will not go near Oxford.
Hey Sam I have 1 questions, does your bachmann baldwin 4-6-0 click because mine does and it's the Main connecting rods, I took off all the rods and for sure it's the main rods? (Also it's not the pickups) Cheers Jasper & Willow
I was gonna buy an Adams Radial tank a while ago but they ran out of stock, I think it was the green version that came in a pack with 2 wagons and was wondering if it's good or not? (Sorry for the long comment)
Well done Sam, once again you made 2 of the same models work perfectly well. By replacing the shitty 5 pole motors with quality coreless motors which make them run way better.
Hi Sam, I’ve got a Bachmann G Scale Gandy Dancer, it needs servicing as very intermittent, do you know where I can get it serviced ? Thanks for your time and response . Kind regards Graham
Can you please make a video that explains how to setup and use a 3d printer. What the best settings are… what the options mean…. How do we turn our cad files into good 3d print objects?
@@fenman1954 yes but Sam makes things sound so simple and I want them to print model trains. Other tutorials are based on other things. Also having Sam explain his settings and why will help us all save time…. Hell there are other videos on RUclips about train motors but we like watching Sam…. That’s why he has over 100k+ subs! Noob!
@@dwaynejohnson4892 noob lol I have been making and repairing model railways for about 50 years trained as an electrician won model competitions for fine scale models yet you with out knowing me state I'm a Noob. Not knocking Sam his videos are good but even he has stated he is a beginner at 3D printing and is learning by watching videos on RUclips
Didn’t mean you as a person and if that’s the case I applaud you. I used that word because if you think it’s so easy then may I remind you that most channels are sponsored. Without spending precious time on who to believe…. In this world full of ads and sponsors…. I trust Sam and if he’s already done this I would cherish the knowledge as I trust him as a good source of reputable and trustworthy information. He’s a beginner but he does everything based on fact… thus far. Until someone proves him wrong…. He’s the bible in my opinion. So I think you’re a noob if you think finding reputable knowledge online, in this day an age, in the same time it would take Sam to explain it to us 😂☺️ I’m sure your understanding in the things you mentioned above is outstanding. However obtaining reputable info online you may not be…. 😂 after all you’re here in his video commenting as well 😅
It isn't that - you can clean the commutator and the problem would come right back. Plus these are not supposed to be serviced - there's only so many times you can open up these motors and put them back together again before they fail... even doing this once can be enough to bugger them up! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Seen this on literally hundreds of motors, very common on N Gauge various makes, as well as OO. Cleaning is just basic maintenance for every motor, and yes, it may come back, but not for some time - it's the slots filling up with carbon - this happens on any carbon brushed motor - the current draw was a great indicator - these should draw well below 100mA, 133 and 166 ish that you saw is absolutely typical of the semi-short caused between commutator plates. In terms of service, while these motors are not the easiest to access, there's no need to fully take apart - either you can access carefully with the right tools via the brush holes to carefully scrape clean the slots, as well as a blast of canned air, or light modification to the motor case is possible to provide a wider access hole - again something I've seen done and done before myself on somewhat smaller N Gauge motors. It is a shame manufacturers don't think of minor tooling mods to make this a standard feature of motors, but then equally they are, I'm sure, happy to sell spare motors at £10-20 a pop. I'm less happy to buy them at that though (!), hence finding out how to maintain the originals, which will outlast the sealed coreless motors (which really aren't servicable, have no possibility for brush replacement, which is a real waste). There have definitely been periods or batches where brushes have been too hard (scoring the commutators badly) or soft (causing this) also, contributing to stuff like this.
i would personally save the Flywheels on the dead motor at least, that is if you can get it off. I find it hard to buy a replacement flywheel due to price justification alone
Fundamental question is how do these manufacturers manage to produce locomotives which seem unable to work for any period of time? Is there no testing for some length of time to determine the longevity of the motor before they put it out for sale!
I agree - some are great for it, others aren't. Oxford sadly aren't - many of their locos have terrible motor issues. Luckily their latest ones have been much better! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, will you review the flying Scotsman from Trix when it's ready? It is obviously getting a diecast chassis and frame as well. Would be interesting to see a comparison of the products of Hornby or Bachmann and modern Trix/Märklin
The fact that the connectors were originally brass suggests that they also served some use as flywheels. Have you noticed any change in relation to removing them in this regard? And is there plausibility of mounting the original connectors to the new motors, or is there too much discrepancy with the shaft diameters?
A fun video and I am glad your loco is basically fixed. But with regards to the two motor test, I think you may have been watching too much of the AvE channel. "Let's see what happens if we connect this drill to this drill and give them the beans..... Oh J*sus....They're smoking like a high school kid out behind the cafeteria." Cheers from Canada :-)
Great work Sam. Very interesting to watch your solution. Quick question, could you have used the original brass flywheel/adaptor on the new motors? or was the shaft sizes wrong?
Yeah ! Two engines salvaged ! I'ts amazing to see what you can do with a few quids, some thinking and some clever fiddling. You are back to the basics of the hobby gentleman ! By the way, did the Scrapman had the burned off motors as a treat ?
Interesting video. Oxford must have had some QC issues. My Dean goods has had no running issues but when i got it converted to DCC sound, the PCB had been wired incorrectly, so that it ran ok on DC but not on DCC. The fix was simple apparently.
I just bought a brand new one, the black version. Not only it runs as bad (slow) as Sam's, but it also has pickup problems at the express points and some details are poorly applied or missing altogether. I live in the USA, not worth it for me to send it back.
After you finished your run in session did the replacement motors keep running well? No slow down or anything after a long run? I've been looking to pick up an Oxford Radial, specifically in the EKR green which is simply lovely. And having a good motor replacement tutorial that is known to work would be tops!
I am in desperate need for some help. I have an Oxford rail adams radial tank to and I accidentally fried the chip I think or the decoder I don't really know what im doing and I need some help
My Oxford Radial Tank never ran and has spent years unused in a cupboard. Disgraceful that manufacturers can get away with producing useless stuff like this. You've inspired me to have another go at getting it operational.
Sam,
Have you considered putting the Flywheel onto the front shaft of the new motor?
Hi SAM I noticed the drive wheels had a slight slip on take off, I had this problem with early ADAMS and found a cure , the rear bogies dont have any up/down movement and I removed the axel assy and lightly deepened the axel bearings and this seemed to remedy the problem. I watch your episodes with interest from Australia,,
I had the same problem and came up with the same fix. Not had any motor problems yet. Crossing my fingers! 😁
@@pedalcarguy HI yes the two small springs are not much use ,so I fit a motor brush spring (cut shorter) in the centre and this works
00 Bill did some good work on one of these seemed part of their problem was the type of lube on the gear appeared to be like wax rather than grease. They do have their problems I managed to get one that seems fine runs well and no issues. Poor Sam seems to pick up some duff models from time to time anyway makes for entertaining viewing!
Sam. When you do services to your engines, it’s like giving them coffee. It make people work like machines and you are the barista of model trains’ coffees. And those Adams Tanks, I bet. They’re screaming as they are dancing away after their coffee (after their motors is fixed). Thank you Sam for much of a experience. I enjoyed many parts of it.
Well done! Thanks so much Sam, from Canada. Although I am over 80 years old I have decided to get my rolling stock collection out of the mothballs and keep going. I'll keep watching you and picking up your important tips regarding my end-ever, wish me luck and happy trails.P
Hi Paul, I too am in Canada. I live on the west coast. I got my first OO train set for Christmas in 1957. And it still gives joy to see it running. Cheers.
I literally bought one of these for 74 bucks a few days ago and haven't had it shipped yet. Absolutely perfect timing Sam! Can't wait to get that model workin better than ever
Ahh fantastic!! Well any problems with it, there's an easy motor fix! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
There seem to be different 'batches' of these engines. I have a factory ESU-sound fitted model and apart from servicing and correcting the vertical bogie play it still runs fine. But always great to see repairs in case of... Thanks for sharing Sam. Cheers, Filip
Replace the drive shaft with a length of silicon hose . I have used this with many replacement motors in Athearn diesels .
It's always a great feeling to bring a poorly running loco out of early retirement and give it a new life. Very rewarding, indeed, Sam. Thanks as uaual for sharing your experience and knowledge. Cheers from Wisconsin!
Great work Sam, the train looks great!
Well done Sam, they're running a lot better now...
Hi Sam. Great video. I have the EKR version which also runs really slow. Is there an option to get the adaptor for those of us without 3D printers? Cheers.
I have the same problem any chance of a part number for the new motors
wow, they run like its brand new! good work sam, good work.
Hi Sam. Could you please share the link to the core-less motors you use as you seem to have found some good ones. Thanks.
Well done, especially for showing the teething problems and snags you met on the way. Another excellent video.
Good video here Sam, amazes me how some people including yourself sometimes can call manufactures like heljan poor but with Oxford they have in my eye produced even poorer models and that is just shown in this video, the adams is probably the worst locomotive I have seen for problems and it really shows Oxford poor quality of their products, good to see these locomotives working again.
Heljan and Oxford are a different sort of poor - in my opinion Heljan are fundamentally poor from a design point of view, Oxford are poor due to some unfortunate motor choices and minor design issues! With a decent motor, I'd take Oxford locos over Heljan any day!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains I suppose we will have to agree to disagree on that, my experience of heljan compared to yours has been far better and i don’t consider them to be fundamentally poor based on my own experiences of new and second hand models from them and what I have seen, to be honest I would much rather have a heljan model instead of an Oxford model, if we’re talking in terms of motors heljan fit much better motors to their models than Oxford do, we both have our own opinions though.
It takes a lot to beat Heljan Clayton 17 which completely failed much like the real thing . Add to that the infernal buffers to get off to get body off and it really is a coaster . I’ve got lots of good Heljan models but they produce some pups too
oh hey it loves!
and who needs DCC sounds anyways just hot glue and some bodging to get some sounds out of ones model is enough
How could such big companies sell such faulty models? Disgraceful! Now, try to fix Heljan's 301 13xx class Saddle Tank (I think that's what it's called I forgot)
I know - just bad motors - they've been trouble for years! Thankfully that might (touch wood) be in the past now!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The loco is the disgraceful Heljan 1361 tank. I would love to see Sam rip into it and fix it actually. But it is such a big meme for how bad it is in every way so i wouldn’t mind letting it die.
@@railsofontario3029 Every locomotive deserves a second chance, well, if you can fix it, at least
@@sableveil Well When he reviewed the 1361 he couldn’t access the motor. But I would really like to see what the model would be like if he replaced the motor. Buy the whole model was a mess cosmetically so even if he solved the poor running.
'BODGE' is an acronym for 'Bit Of Damn Good Engineering'!
Thanks for sharing your video and expertise Sam. I only wish I had your knowledge and experience in repairing and maintaining your models as I remain clueless on these matters 😁
I had a similar problem with an Oxford N7. I fitted a motor from Tramfabriek, more expensive than your ebay one but still reasonable. The Oxford worm fitted straight onto the shaft and the motor was a direct fit. No modifications required and it now runs perfectly.
Wow, that's even more perfect - sounds spot on, great fix!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Don't suppose you have a link description of this tramfabriek motor..?
More! More! More! Great video Sam thank you I love this kind of video where people pass on knowledge by showing others how to fix things 👍👍👍👍 Speaking of locos not working properly 😁I had a loco that when I tested it the motor ran stopped ran stopped it took five of these stop starts for the wheels to make one rotation (it had a 5 pole motor) but when I sent it back they said that when they tested it it worked fine??? I didn't think to try a new decoder until after I had returned it, but they seem to think it's my ECOS controller but I have a lot of locos and never seen this problem before. keep the videos coming especially this type.👍👍👍👍
Great video. The sound maybe from the U joint ,it looks like the motor is pointing down.
Is there a way of mounting the metal flywheel from old motor onto the coreless motor?
Awesome video Sam's trains
Emperor Sam sentences Motors to the gladiatorial games! Seriously, it's so nice to see engines running as they should.
It seems to me like there are a couple of issues. The original motor brushes are potentially on the soft side and leaving a carbon deposit between the brushes and poles on the commutator, which leads to the warmup problems and need to run a bit before it frees up, and also an excessively thin resin coating on the windings leading to shorts bypassing part of the coils, reducing torque. Basically down to cheap materials manufactured to poor tolerances.
You think you'll ever make the printfiles public for those of us who want to try your modifications for ourselves? Thanks for the video
I’ve been tempted by these given the price they’re going for at some retailers but I recently bought a Hornby Lyme Regis train pack which runs perfectly. Glad I waited.
My 2-8-0 uses this motor too and it runs perfectly
Which 2-8-0?? I'm not aware of any that use this one??
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam ,, I think that maybe the noise is from the alignment of where the motor is to the universal joint so maybe if you lift it up a tad at the uni joint end and make it as straight as as you can in line with the gearbox shafts and stick some silicone grease in the uni joints that should quieten it down at least errr well maybe haha.
Cheers from John in Australia
Do you lubricate the coupling?
I saw Jennifer Kirk reviewing the updated Oxford rail Adams radial (3250) .. she seemed to think they’d addressed the motor criticisms, couldn’t really tell myself. Have you thought of having a new go.
Enjoying the vids, great work
Hi Sam would you do a review of Sonic' A5 ?
Sam will you be getting the sonic models A5 tank?
I hope to yes! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank s Sam, I got a EKR loco cheap here in Australia, it went for 15 minutes and hasnt moved for more than 5cm since. I am at a end, if removing motor and changing it works, I will have to get some extreme help. I have been so dis appointed I will not go near Oxford.
Hey Sam I have 1 questions, does your bachmann baldwin 4-6-0 click because mine does and it's the Main connecting rods, I took off all the rods and for sure it's the main rods? (Also it's not the pickups)
Cheers Jasper & Willow
Hey! No I've not noticed any clicking with mine that I can remember - sorry to hear you've had trouble!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I was gonna buy an Adams Radial tank a while ago but they ran out of stock, I think it was the green version that came in a pack with 2 wagons and was wondering if it's good or not? (Sorry for the long comment)
Hmm... Hmm... see who has become coreless motor's fan now... 😀 Congratulations! Great job!
hahaha it's true - used to dislike them, but now I've found some decent ones I do love them!!
@@SamsTrains We all live and learn... 🙂Keep up the great work! Love your videos! 🙂
the yoke or flange isn't the same size shaft as the new motor ? to reuse the part ?
also to on other trains , have you put a l.e.d. light on any ?
Sam, it’s all in the marketing! It’s NOT a noisy motor at all. It’s actually amazingly cheap sound fitted…!😂
Well done Sam, once again you made 2 of the same models work perfectly well. By replacing the shitty 5 pole motors with quality coreless motors which make them run way better.
Thanks Bryan - yes it's amazing what a cheap coreless motor can do!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
15:52 well this is interesting
Cheers Jasper & Willow
haha thank you - helped pass the time!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Unfortunatelly the british models do not have lamp on the board. It would be the best indicator for power collection or shortcuts. 😅
Nice fix for these 2 locos!
Thank you! :D
Our hero the coreless motors comes and saves yet another model
Absolutely - I'm a much bigger fan of them these days than I used to be ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, I’ve got a Bachmann G Scale Gandy Dancer, it needs servicing as very intermittent, do you know where I can get it serviced ? Thanks for your time and response . Kind regards Graham
Hi Sam, Is there any way to get hold the adaptor without having a 3D printer? Thanks
Can you please make a video that explains how to setup and use a 3d printer. What the best settings are… what the options mean…. How do we turn our cad files into good 3d print objects?
There are plenty of videos on RUclips explaining this it will also depend on which type of 3d printer you have.
@@fenman1954 yes but Sam makes things sound so simple and I want them to print model trains. Other tutorials are based on other things. Also having Sam explain his settings and why will help us all save time….
Hell there are other videos on RUclips about train motors but we like watching Sam…. That’s why he has over 100k+ subs! Noob!
@@dwaynejohnson4892 noob lol I have been making and repairing model railways for about 50 years trained as an electrician won model competitions for fine scale models yet you with out knowing me state I'm a Noob. Not knocking Sam his videos are good but even he has stated he is a beginner at 3D printing and is learning by watching videos on RUclips
Didn’t mean you as a person and if that’s the case I applaud you. I used that word because if you think it’s so easy then may I remind you that most channels are sponsored. Without spending precious time on who to believe…. In this world full of ads and sponsors….
I trust Sam and if he’s already done this I would cherish the knowledge as I trust him as a good source of reputable and trustworthy information.
He’s a beginner but he does everything based on fact… thus far. Until someone proves him wrong…. He’s the bible in my opinion.
So I think you’re a noob if you think finding reputable knowledge online, in this day an age, in the same time it would take Sam to explain it to us 😂☺️ I’m sure your understanding in the things you mentioned above is outstanding. However obtaining reputable info online you may not be…. 😂 after all you’re here in his video commenting as well 😅
9:40 the magnets on that motor are so thin, no wonder it's so weak. Speaking of which how are your previous motor swapped engines going?
Original motors almost certainly fine, just need their commutators properly cleaned. Highly common issue.
It isn't that - you can clean the commutator and the problem would come right back. Plus these are not supposed to be serviced - there's only so many times you can open up these motors and put them back together again before they fail... even doing this once can be enough to bugger them up!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Seen this on literally hundreds of motors, very common on N Gauge various makes, as well as OO. Cleaning is just basic maintenance for every motor, and yes, it may come back, but not for some time - it's the slots filling up with carbon - this happens on any carbon brushed motor - the current draw was a great indicator - these should draw well below 100mA, 133 and 166 ish that you saw is absolutely typical of the semi-short caused between commutator plates. In terms of service, while these motors are not the easiest to access, there's no need to fully take apart - either you can access carefully with the right tools via the brush holes to carefully scrape clean the slots, as well as a blast of canned air, or light modification to the motor case is possible to provide a wider access hole - again something I've seen done and done before myself on somewhat smaller N Gauge motors. It is a shame manufacturers don't think of minor tooling mods to make this a standard feature of motors, but then equally they are, I'm sure, happy to sell spare motors at £10-20 a pop. I'm less happy to buy them at that though (!), hence finding out how to maintain the originals, which will outlast the sealed coreless motors (which really aren't servicable, have no possibility for brush replacement, which is a real waste). There have definitely been periods or batches where brushes have been too hard (scoring the commutators badly) or soft (causing this) also, contributing to stuff like this.
i would personally save the Flywheels on the dead motor at least, that is if you can get it off. I find it hard to buy a replacement flywheel due to price justification alone
Hot glue... Also known as the universal motor mount.
Nice video Sam. Try a check on the background ambient temperature, and humidity.
Sam,
Nice clip. Where did you get the motors? Please post a link if it is allowed.
Thanks
Sure, it's this one - the 10*20mm one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254679376461
Thanks!
Hi Sam good job as always, any chance you could put the link and motor details in comments Thanks
Hi Sam do you sell the motor adapters or have the files on online so I could print my own?
Hi sam why didn t you just pop a bit of heat strink on the adaptor may stop the virabration
Fundamental question is how do these manufacturers manage to produce locomotives which seem unable to work for any period of time? Is there no testing for some length of time to determine the longevity of the motor before they put it out for sale!
I agree - some are great for it, others aren't. Oxford sadly aren't - many of their locos have terrible motor issues. Luckily their latest ones have been much better!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great job
Thank you Sam! :D
Hi Sam could you tell me the web site you got your coiless motors
I desperately need to remotor mine, and need that joint on the end, what can you do for me please?
Interesting...
any chance of an ebay link for a motor please @Sam's trains?
Hi Sam, will you review the flying Scotsman from Trix when it's ready? It is obviously getting a diecast chassis and frame as well. Would be interesting to see a comparison of the products of Hornby or Bachmann and modern Trix/Märklin
Good work Sam
Hola buenas tardes excelente video abrazo grande 😃👍👍👍
Will you release the 3D print?
The fact that the connectors were originally brass suggests that they also served some use as flywheels.
Have you noticed any change in relation to removing them in this regard? And is there plausibility of mounting the original connectors to the new motors, or is there too much discrepancy with the shaft diameters?
Rest in Peace to the Wellsworth and Suddery’s nr. 3, Adam. Who was based on this engine
In other news, 30583 is next to be overhauled at bluebell after beachy head is finished
A fun video and I am glad your loco is basically fixed. But with regards to the two motor test, I think you may have been watching too much of the AvE channel. "Let's see what happens if we connect this drill to this drill and give them the beans..... Oh J*sus....They're smoking like a high school kid out behind the cafeteria." Cheers from Canada :-)
Hi sam so you recon you could do a series on doing scenery on you 120 scale layout
Awesome video today Sam very interesting
Thanks James! :D
Great job! 👍
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Instead of glue you should use blacktac,
Can you save that counter weight on that motor.
Thankfully I don't have to do this to my adams radial, it's been running for 4 years now. (touch wood) :)
Cheers Jasper & Willow
That's great news - phew!!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Is it possible for me to get one of these adapters to fix my Adams Radial?
Great work Sam. Very interesting to watch your solution. Quick question, could you have used the original brass flywheel/adaptor on the new motors? or was the shaft sizes wrong?
Could you take the brass adaptor off the old motor? It would have been acting as a flywheel as it was set up.
Sadly not with this motor - the shaft diameters are different!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Yeah ! Two engines salvaged ! I'ts amazing to see what you can do with a few quids, some thinking and some clever fiddling. You are back to the basics of the hobby gentleman !
By the way, did the Scrapman had the burned off motors as a treat ?
Cool video!
Thank you! :D
@@SamsTrains of course
Interesting video. Oxford must have had some QC issues. My Dean goods has had no running issues but when i got it converted to DCC sound, the PCB had been wired incorrectly, so that it ran ok on DC but not on DCC. The fix was simple apparently.
I just bought a brand new one, the black version. Not only it runs as bad (slow) as Sam's, but it also has pickup problems at the express points and some details are poorly applied or missing altogether. I live in the USA, not worth it for me to send it back.
What is the point of making a nice looking loco, and then putting an anaemic motor in it?
I know! Luckily Oxford did learn their lesson, and their latest locos like the J27 have had much better motors!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I have never got my Adams Radial to run and gave up on it.
Good video thanks lee
Thanks Lee! :D
After you finished your run in session did the replacement motors keep running well? No slow down or anything after a long run?
I've been looking to pick up an Oxford Radial, specifically in the EKR green which is simply lovely. And having a good motor replacement tutorial that is known to work would be tops!
Good one Sam!
Thanks Jack! :D
Nice job on fixing the motor sam.
I am in desperate need for some help. I have an Oxford rail adams radial tank to and I accidentally fried the chip I think or the decoder I don't really know what im doing and I need some help
I can’t believe the big week is upon us, if you know what I mean.
My little brother likes your vids
I regret to inform you that I have to subscribe because if I do not my sanity will cease to exist
Is there a link to these motors in Ebay ?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254679376461
Twisting motion on axles...first loco not synched
mate have you been working out?
Sam the Engine Whisperer strikes again !! Great job 👏 👍
9:48 lol
haha! ;D