As a young drag racer I look up the sports history and I love how you have evolved and decided to bring us all along on your journey of making this sport better
Nothing beats a good set of straps for keeping the front end down as you launch (wheelie bars excluded). For a quick trial setup to lower my road bike I would often reduce the spring pre-load adjusters on the forks and rear shock then increase the rebound adjusters to the max. It appeared to work quite well, also with lower tire pressures and a cut down seat foam. Handling remained good at the 200+ kph (125 mph) speed range that the bike would make going into the braking zone at the end of the 1/4 mile.
I learned many things from you Mr. Brock And thanks for the experience that you were sharing continously with us. I like to watch the upgrades to you do. I want to see some 2020 s1000RR's Dyno, flashing, upgrades, pulls and launches.
Love your videos. Here in germany drag racing isnt that big by far like in the us. We are more into short circuit racing. But its really interesting to see what modifications make up really fast drag bikes. Most people think they are just stupid stretched and slammed sportsbikes but its cool to see that its much more than that. Keep up the good work ;)
Road race tracks test the performance of the rider.... Drag and land speed test the performance of the machine. Since we are in the performance parts business, drag/LSR works out better for us to showcase how well our products make the bikes perform.
Did brenntuning just dislike the video again? Who the hell dislikes this mans work!? Always so professional and by the book can’t wait to buy my next bike and do all you did to yours bc I know you’re doing things right thanks for the video as always !
Yup after adjusting the rear its only logical to adjust more of the front fork. This is by far the cheapest free trick you can do to have a better center of gravity goes to the front a bit without disturbing other parts or replacing anything..
Master Brock delivering the goods again!!! I lovee ittt!!! My bike was lowered at the front 2.25 inches, i found it got soft so we added 3 caps full of suspension fluid into each side! It was much nicer and not so musshy feeling! I never knew it helped top speed, but my mechanic said the same thing u said, it helps cut air better with the front lower, And yesss, my bike amongst the others of the same make was alot stronger at the top end! By alot!!!
I’ve got so much of knowledge with this one video. You’re so good at explaining it, I feel like bringing my bike to you but that’s not possible as I’m in India
Great video Brock. I just have 2 things to add. First, when using a torque wrench, please folks don't go run out to your nearest harbor freight store and buy on of theirs thinking it's gonna be precise. Get yourself a quality torque wrench. If ypu look in the side of it or on the case it comes in, it should tell you the accuracy +/- ft lbs. The lower the better obviously. 2nd after owning numerous gsxrs, when reattaching the clip ons with the pin underneath. Push the clip on all the way forward or all the way back for both so your alignment will be the same on both sides. There is a little wiggle room that can throw off your alignment of the clipons.
Man I just enjoy learning a watching these educational motorcycle videos from ya Brock.! I believe I went 3/4 in lowered on my (exoctice cycle top clamp for side to side clearance isuses) 08' Gen 2 because I spotted that taper section like you described. You didn't have a top clamp availble at the time. But, Its good to see you see have Chronic.That bike was an huge inspiration towards my Busa build. I remember seeing Kieth Shine set that record 8.99 pass. Man those were some good times, but things get better as we all know. But, No matter how much I know or not from you. I just appreciate the time you take to educate and (confirm what I already know) us on bike related information.
Wildman 8964 , thank you for the kind words and I'm glad you are enjoying the series as someone who has experience with motorcycle drag racing. Chronic is one of my all time favorite bikes. I will keep my 7 second Bandit, Chronic, The red ZX-14 Diary bike and Christine forever as they all mark specific times in my career and personal learning experiences.
picking up my brand new 2017 gsxr-1000r in glass sparkle black on thursday . Christmas 2019 will be a Brock Christmas I guarantee. Thanks for the how to. one of the reasons I chose this bike. I can wrench without these but it's always nice to have a little preview of what you're in for. might see you on the drag strip.
"Pay attention to the details, the details will get you killed" Most of my family are MARINES learned that truth as a kid ! Great as always Brock Thanks.
Hey Brock, great video man! So how does running straps change this???? With strapping the front end i'd imagine you don't need to do this specifically cause the straps just pull the front end up and limit the suspension travel correct??? Versus doing this to lower the bike permanently???? Am I on the right page???? EDIT..... I kept watching it and answered my own question...... it operates like a travel limiter does for a drag car... I have used chains on my a arms and now i see this is the same..... AWESOME!
I am not interested in drag racing my "09 fz6r. But I am interested in lowering the front end. What would be the pros and cons of doing this to my bike?
Slightly quicker handling at low speeds. As long as you lower the front and rear to allow the bike to sit level, you will probably only notice the increased feeling of control from lowering the bike.
All bikes can be lowered via some means, but some are more difficult than others. On the older bikes, fork cutting and shorter shocks might be required.
It's not a problem unless you forget you are slammed. Speed bumps, curbs and other high spots in the road will poke a hole in your oil pan if you aren't careful.
No Video, sorry. Use your OEM service manual and use the adjustment suggestions we show here: brocksperformance.com/billet-triple-tree-clamp-black-hayabusa-08-19/
Hello Brock, Thank you for sharing this awesome video. I have a RC 390 with cycle werkes exhaust, weight reduction everywhere, PowerTronic ecu. I have a few questions: - You mentioned a fact that lowering the front by an inch cuts a 10th of a second. Does that apply to the aerodynamics for all bikes? - Do we need to lower the rear of we lower the front? Hoping to hear back. Regards.
Hello. The lowering of the bike makes gains due to lowering the center of gravity as well as aerodynamic gains. This is discussed in detail in our Gixzilla 2017 GSX-R1000 series. Yes - it is recomended to lower the rear as well as the front. Good luck with your project RC 390! Brock
Love the video. But I do have a question. Being that I’m in my 50’s I get a sore back can the handles moved above the clamps? Do you see any problems doing that? Regards from the great white north.
Yes, a bit. But an ever nicer solution is to switch to fully adjustable heibars. They can let you put your riding position just about anywhere you like.
I just ordered your lowering link, can I lower my 22 gsxr 1000r without taking the catalytic converter out? Or do I have to remove it in order to install it
I don't have access to a 2023 microfiche, but the 17-22 single r versions fork assemblies are Suzuki part number: 51103-17K01. This would lead me to belive the 23 is the same also ---but I'm not 100% certain.
i have a kawasaki zx10r 2020 and i am going to get it down by 1inc with your sterling damper kit my question is do i have to make the suspension harder so when i brake hard it will not scratch the front fander thanks for the advice sir
Are the BFF forks on the 1000R tapered the same way seems like I have about a half inch more fork tube sticking through my triple tree right from the factory than what you had in the video
Huge thanks to you for sharing this informative video Sir! I have lowered my rear end about 2inches coz i am a short rider. Will there be a problem or anything you can advice me with if i leave the front end as is and not lowered? Thanks in advance.
Sir i have finally found time to lower the front and loved the handling. THANK YOU! And sir what can you suggest for a replacement thermo switch for the radiator for 2003 GSXR so the fan will turn on in a bit lower temperature. THANKS in advance .
I recently traded my cbr650f in for a 2013 gixxer 750 and have lowering link for rear to install now on the front have you ever moved clipons above top triple tree when sliding forks up in triple tree to give lil more upright seating position
Brock, I have a 2017 gsxr 1000, with your ecu flash, full exhaust, sprint filter, yes it’s stupid fast now. I’m considering lowering the bike myself. Couple questions, was an inch a good amount on your bike, after it was tested, or would you go more or less? Also, I do have a professionally trained background as a mechanic, aviation, but concerned about doing this job myself considering the power and speed of these bikes. If I follow your actions in your video will I have everything covered or is there any extra steps to make sure the setup is correct?
@Spratt Law Firm PLLC - if you have the standard model, like ours 1" is about as far as you can go and we don't see any issue at 1". If you have the R model, you don't have this constraint. We have several customers who have lowered their bikes 1 3/4 - 2", for strip use and it works fine. Your mechanical aviation background and our vid should make this a breeze for you - along with the Suzuki Service manual for spec and additional instructions. e-mail me: bmail@brocksperformance.com and I will forward a manual link if you need one.
Brock Davidson thanks Brock, I do have a service manual with the torque specs so I’ll try the 1” and see if that helps to keep the wheel on the ground. If I run into any issues I’ll hit you up...
HI brock I'm sure you will explain it in your next video. But what I want to know is when you've lowered the front as much as you can like you did and strapped down. When you lower the back should it sit a bit higher then the front or as even as possible. Taking into account when you got a extended swingarm. And the amount of squat the bike has on launch
In the front, it's possible to slightly loosen the clamps and tap the forks down with a plastic mallet. But...if you go too far you will need to lift the front end off of the ground to readjust.
Cool video. I have questions... I own a 2000 CBR 929. Decades ago i read about bikes being "professionally lowered" but no explanation was given on the process. Could it mean changing the springs in the forks? Lowering links? Or is it what we see here? I lowered my 929 .500" in the front this way and lowered the back 1.00" with a lowering link. Honda has some stainless rings on the forks that fit into grooves in the forks which i removed to get the forks to slide.
Most older bikes allow the forks to be dropped in the triple trees. The rear will either need a an aftermarket lowering link or modification of the OEM link to lower the bike. A lowered bike will also need a lowered or adjustable kickstand.
@@BrockDavidson thanks for your reply. My question was is this considered "professional lowering"? Or is there some other method considered better like maybe for AMA race bikes as an example?
@@BrockDavidson I just stumbled on your videos and I really like seeing that you ( or your team ) is actively still responding to comments or questions on a video so old. If I may, what are your thoughts on progressive spring swaps to lower a bike? In my case it’s a Gen 1 Busa and I am not long legged. Will progressive springs create issues for the bike outside of less clearance for the underbelly?
The problem with progressive springs on bikes is that lowering comes at the expensive of proper suspension function. Per the replies above, replacing the links will allow similar operation to stock while also lowering the chassis.
The strap can be tight on the street, but the ride is very harsh the suspension cannot properly function over bumps. Slight tension is OK, full tension should be reserved for drag strip use.
I found it very difficult to get accurate fork cap height measurements since the cap is quite beveled. Do you just pick any point and use the same? Great series!
@Tim V we go from a flat on the cap to a point under it - usually on the tree, but occasionally on the bar, etc... The forks will naturally compensate for small differences. I stay with .010 - but I have seen others vary as much as 1/8 inch and still work (not recommended). If you get as close as you can with calipers, you will be fine. This might help you also: brocksperformance.com/content/Instructions/S1000RR/998035.pdf
@Ryan - thank you, glad you like the series. We have no plans to produce billet stacks for this bike here at Brock's. You might want to contact Marc at Factory Pro as this would be one of their specialties.
Great question. But first we would need to deeply dive into answering the questions: WHY is your banana making noise? How much noise is your banana making? And how much noise to we wish to suppress from your banana? If the maximum allowable banana noise standard is government mandated, an officially approved or homologated banana noise reduction solution would be required.
@@BrockDavidson Because the shocks on the R model don't taper, right? It's a bit weird that the Showas on the base model taper and BFFs on the R model don't...
I need my Gsxr750 lowered and I am not sure how much the front forks can be lowered to. I see that you did about 1.2 inch but I need more. You described that it tapers at the bottom. If I go any lower, what parts will I need so that it won’t loosen?
@@BrockDavidson how would I be able to drop 3 inches if you were only doing around 1.2? I have a 2019 model. Would there be some parts that could potentially help lower it by 3 inches as it will hit the part that tapers if I do.
@@joycetam9728 you are dropping the SEAT HEIGHT. which happens with a combination of fork drop, lowering link install and strap. They all add up to 3" seat drop.
@@BrockDavidson I don’t have straps for lowering, just some links. Hopefully I can drop 3 inches front and back without any problems. I will definitely keep you posted! Will be following your video about dropping the front since the model is the same. I don’t think I want to cut the forks in case I want to sell it in the future.
We have lowered all types of bikes over the years with no issues. Just remember that lowering the rear needs to happen also and you might need to cut or replace your kickstand with an adjustable unit.
I own a CBR 1000 RR 2008 with lowered front about 1 santimeter. I want drop bike 1.5 sm or 2 more down on the front , but fork place to tight will be no longer on 100% - maybe on 50%. Is it safe to ride and street race with 50% area on the fork? Also is it need to make a little more power to tight them for the safe?
Our bike currently has less than 50%. We tighten the clamps a bit more, so they can better conform to the taper - but be cautious as the bolts can snap and cause you big headaches.
Yes. Always be cautious if the forks are tapered. If they are straight, it's fairly easy to lower the front end. Please remember that you might also need to lower the rear as well as shorten the kickstand.
The 'best' AFR for any engine is the one that's fastest on the track using s specified combination (pipe/filter/fuel/atmospheric conditions for that day etc...) there is no magic AFR that works well for all applications. As the link above explains, we start with the highest power producing AFR on the dyno. Let's say that is 13:2-1. But this is in a STATIC application (bike not moving) once we get to the track (DYNAMIC application- bike moving), we adjust the AFR to 12.8-1 or 13.6-1. If the bike goes faster with either one (typically we measure the back half ET), that is the map we use. Of course, if we go back to the dyno with the new Dynamic AFR map, the bike will read less HP on the dyno (since optimum AFR map for the dyno is no longer installed) - but the bike will be faster in the real world.
Is it bad to have one fork higher than the other one on the top ? i took my bike to get a new tire and the mechanic notice i had installed a lower kit on the back, but they didn't lower the front fork so he said he would lower.. Now i notice one fork is higher than the other one about a 1/4 of an inch.. bike doesn't really feel diff though. thanks
The forks should be as close to level as possible. We always try to lower the front the same as or slightly lower than the rear for most performance use.
lol, my friends at Ohlins start to convulse every time they see a front end tie down strap --- but they still can't find a way to compete with it for simplicity/price/performance value.
Brock Davidson thanks for your prompt reply. I’m buying a lowered k8 1000 that I want to raise back up. I’ve never done the job before and I was wondering if putting a jack under the exhaust was a good idea or not. Then I came upon your video.
Maybe I missed it, but did you clarify why lowering it and still strapping it is better than just strapping it down to the same height? I've done both on different bikes, but mainly because there was room to do it on the Katana vs the gsxr which was stretched and spinning so I ended up releasing the strap.
Lower and strap lowers the CG. Unstraping can help reduce spin, but increasing rear traction (tire/pressure/shock etc.) to still allow strap use is the faster option.
That's what I was wondering. My K6 750 strapped was already low enough. Idk if it had room for another inch... Plus with it spinning I never had a need for it too... Yet (10" stretch and lowered rear as well). My swb Katana 750 I done both. And glad I did because it still wanted to come up and it's longer and less powerful than the GSXR.
I understand longer and lower is more likely to spin. I guess I just didn't realize you couldn't strap these down low enough. He just never explained that in the video. He started to but I think he sidetracked himself.
I haven't met a bike that can't be lowered. That said, we have nothing for the mt-10. If you live near Ohio, put in a new product request: blog.brocksperformance.com/product-request/
Anyone can help me out ... I’m trying to stretch my bike 8 in and I don’t know the right drop would be too much for a 3 in drop and also do I need to drop my front to equal it up let say 3 in back and 3 in front?
Many bikes won't accept a 3" drop in the front, if yours does, watch for fender clearance issues.. Especially after landing a hard wheelie. We usually drop 1 1/2 and use slight tension on the strap.
Increased aerodynamic down force actually slows the bike down at high speeds. We lower the front end, to lower the CG to decrease wheelies, as this increases acceleration more that the added down force hurts. If that makes sense.
that will work same with ur kickstand.. always start with left since...i hope ud agree it makes the most sense, right ;) if u dont...u do u lol (covid mask zed)
Does the direction of the exhaust tip affect aerodynamics at high speeds? I see so many pipes sticking out diagonally sideways these days, and I can't help but think Newton's 3rd law has some effect when 15,000 rpm worth of hot gasses is shoving out that tip, and 160 mph wind is being bulged out its normal laminar shape around the tail of the bike.
@Lifted_Above - I have seen side outlet exhaust on very fast wheelie bar turbo bikes 'push' the front end of the bike off track to the point where they had to be converted to a rear exit for the bike to go straight. As for normally aspirated bikes, it's not something we have ever measured. That said, we keep our Alien Head exhaust short and low to help keep them out of the slipstream - they are angled and own many LSR speed records. Paying attention to Aero's at high speeds is paramount.
It's a great subject of conversation. I watch a lot of automotive related videos online as well, and I'm surprised at the location and direction of a lot of big drag car exhaust tips, especially forced induction exhausts. Clearly builders are being a little myopic with their focus on other things. Air acts very similar to water, the difference obviously being density, yet at 150mph+ the density of that air essentially gets much much worse.
Sono moto progettate per andare veloce in curva e queste modifiche rovinano tutte le geometrie degli ingegneri Suzuki e dei piloti tester professionali 😢
These modification allow the bike to be used in racing that the engineers did not design for - the good news is that they perform world class when properly modified.
Sometimes I am glad not to live in the USA when I see something like that. It might be good for a drag race, or just straight roads, but for normal road traffic, especially in curves, it is life threatening. The whole handling of the bike changes to the negative and makes the bike unsafe. For example, if you are stopped by the police in Germany with such a motorcycle, the motorcycle would be confiscated on the spot and the operating license of the vehicle is immediately invalid. If the belts were such a great thing, the motorcycle manufacturers would sell them as an option and it would be allowed all over Europe.
Haaaaaaaaaa, right! That's why you have the "speed" limit (I call it slow motion driving) and the Germans have their freedom on the "Autobahn"! Unfortunately, I don't live in Germany..
As a young drag racer I look up the sports history and I love how you have evolved and decided to bring us all along on your journey of making this sport better
Brock is a living legend.. Thanks for all the knowledge you share, you really don’t have to, & I appreciate that.... Burn rubber not your soul. 🙏🏾
Nothing beats a good set of straps for keeping the front end down as you launch (wheelie bars excluded). For a quick trial setup to lower my road bike I would often reduce the spring pre-load adjusters on the forks and rear shock then increase the rebound adjusters to the max. It appeared to work quite well, also with lower tire pressures and a cut down seat foam. Handling remained good at the 200+ kph (125 mph) speed range that the bike would make going into the braking zone at the end of the 1/4 mile.
I learned many things from you Mr. Brock
And thanks for the experience that you were sharing continously with us. I like to watch the upgrades to you do. I want to see some 2020 s1000RR's Dyno, flashing, upgrades, pulls and launches.
Love your videos. Here in germany drag racing isnt that big by far like in the us. We are more into short circuit racing. But its really interesting to see what modifications make up really fast drag bikes. Most people think they are just stupid stretched and slammed sportsbikes but its cool to see that its much more than that. Keep up the good work ;)
Also in Italy is the same , the skill is in the track taking curves not doing drag race 😂😂😂
Road race tracks test the performance of the rider.... Drag and land speed test the performance of the machine. Since we are in the performance parts business, drag/LSR works out better for us to showcase how well our products make the bikes perform.
Did brenntuning just dislike the video again? Who the hell dislikes this mans work!? Always so professional and by the book can’t wait to buy my next bike and do all you did to yours bc I know you’re doing things right thanks for the video as always !
Made the mistake of not knowing to use a jack to lower mine, but after a lot of sweating and cussing I finally got it right where I wanted it.
Yup after adjusting the rear its only logical to adjust more of the front fork. This is by far the cheapest free trick you can do to have a better center of gravity goes to the front a bit without disturbing other parts or replacing anything..
Master Brock delivering the goods again!!! I lovee ittt!!! My bike was lowered at the front 2.25 inches, i found it got soft so we added 3 caps full of suspension fluid into each side! It was much nicer and not so musshy feeling! I never knew it helped top speed, but my mechanic said the same thing u said, it helps cut air better with the front lower, And yesss, my bike amongst the others of the same make was alot stronger at the top end! By alot!!!
I’ve got so much of knowledge with this one video. You’re so good at explaining it, I feel like bringing my bike to you but that’s not possible as I’m in India
Not required 😉. More info: bit.ly/3dBhWgz
Great video Brock. I just have 2 things to add. First, when using a torque wrench, please folks don't go run out to your nearest harbor freight store and buy on of theirs thinking it's gonna be precise. Get yourself a quality torque wrench. If ypu look in the side of it or on the case it comes in, it should tell you the accuracy +/- ft lbs. The lower the better obviously. 2nd after owning numerous gsxrs, when reattaching the clip ons with the pin underneath. Push the clip on all the way forward or all the way back for both so your alignment will be the same on both sides. There is a little wiggle room that can throw off your alignment of the clipons.
He's no rookie! Love seeing you do all your own work on the bike.
I've been around a wrench or two over the years ;)
Man I just enjoy learning a watching these educational motorcycle videos from ya Brock.! I believe I went 3/4 in lowered on my (exoctice cycle top clamp for side to side clearance isuses) 08' Gen 2 because I spotted that taper section like you described. You didn't have a top clamp availble at the time. But, Its good to see you see have Chronic.That bike was an huge inspiration towards my Busa build. I remember seeing Kieth Shine set that record 8.99 pass. Man those were some good times, but things get better as we all know. But, No matter how much I know or not from you. I just appreciate the time you take to educate and (confirm what I already know) us on bike related information.
Wildman 8964 , thank you for the kind words and I'm glad you are enjoying the series as someone who has experience with motorcycle drag racing. Chronic is one of my all time favorite bikes. I will keep my 7 second Bandit, Chronic, The red ZX-14 Diary bike and Christine forever as they all mark specific times in my career and personal learning experiences.
That one bike in the background looks like a spider.
picking up my brand new 2017 gsxr-1000r in glass sparkle black on thursday . Christmas 2019 will be a Brock Christmas I guarantee. Thanks for the how to. one of the reasons I chose this bike. I can wrench without these but it's always nice to have a little preview of what you're in for. might see you on the drag strip.
Is the gsxr 100 a 125cc?
Lol, no. Forgot the extra 0.
"Pay attention to the details, the details will get you killed" Most of my family are MARINES learned that truth as a kid ! Great as always Brock Thanks.
I’m watching this because I’m too short for my 2020 ZX6R. I don’t race. HELP!
blog.brocksperformance.com/product-request/
Hey Brock, great video man! So how does running straps change this???? With strapping the front end i'd imagine you don't need to do this specifically cause the straps just pull the front end up and limit the suspension travel correct??? Versus doing this to lower the bike permanently???? Am I on the right page???? EDIT..... I kept watching it and answered my own question...... it operates like a travel limiter does for a drag car... I have used chains on my a arms and now i see this is the same..... AWESOME!
Brilliant video Brock!! Always great learnings from your vids
Click Long Description for additional information and Video Time Stamps - Please SUBSCRIBE if you enjoy our channel!
I am not interested in drag racing my "09 fz6r. But I am interested in lowering the front end. What would be the pros and cons of doing this to my bike?
Slightly quicker handling at low speeds. As long as you lower the front and rear to allow the bike to sit level, you will probably only notice the increased feeling of control from lowering the bike.
Thanks big, best wishes
thanks for the nice video,i was just wondering if i can do the lowering on my 1976 honda cb400f,im a short guy lol"
All bikes can be lowered via some means, but some are more difficult than others. On the older bikes, fork cutting and shorter shocks might be required.
What’s the opinion on lowering it to look better and to be able to flat foot, can you daily something lowered like that?
It's not a problem unless you forget you are slammed. Speed bumps, curbs and other high spots in the road will poke a hole in your oil pan if you aren't careful.
More info: blog.brocksperformance.com/long-road-trip-to-the-short-drag-strip/
Hi Brock, do you have a video showing an installation of a lowering triple on a hayabusa?
No Video, sorry. Use your OEM service manual and use the adjustment suggestions we show here: brocksperformance.com/billet-triple-tree-clamp-black-hayabusa-08-19/
How many pin holes it got to change the handle bar position? great video btw :)
Hello Brock,
Thank you for sharing this awesome video.
I have a RC 390 with cycle werkes exhaust, weight reduction everywhere, PowerTronic ecu. I have a few questions:
- You mentioned a fact that lowering the front by an inch cuts a 10th of a second. Does that apply to the aerodynamics for all bikes?
- Do we need to lower the rear of we lower the front?
Hoping to hear back.
Regards.
Hello. The lowering of the bike makes gains due to lowering the center of gravity as well as aerodynamic gains. This is discussed in detail in our Gixzilla 2017 GSX-R1000 series.
Yes - it is recomended to lower the rear as well as the front.
Good luck with your project RC 390!
Brock
@@BrockDavidson Understood.
Thanks a lot for replying.
It's really great to see your videos and get inspired.
🙏🏼
Thanks for educating us on this.
Love the video. But I do have a question. Being that I’m in my 50’s I get a sore back can the handles moved above the clamps? Do you see any problems doing that? Regards from the great white north.
Yes, a bit. But an ever nicer solution is to switch to fully adjustable heibars. They can let you put your riding position just about anywhere you like.
Any videos on lowering the rear???
Yes - ruclips.net/video/-cgGG2Vh7qg/видео.html use long description to select timestamps to go directly to a topic.
Awesome as always and hugely informative!
So after it was all said and done, how much was the front end lowered still being in the safety margin?
Please check the time stamps in our long description to quickly pinpoint specific areas of this and other vids.
LEGEND.
Sir Brock your adjustable kick stand will it work on GSXR-600?
Will it also activate the OFF safety switch located under the stand??
Thank you
Very smart guy!
I just ordered your lowering link, can I lower my 22 gsxr 1000r without taking the catalytic converter out? Or do I have to remove it in order to install it
We note that in our product description as well as the product installation instructions.
Hi .. I would to know is there any difference between 2017 gsxr 1000r front suspension and 2023 gsxr 1000r front suspension..
thanks best regards
I don't have access to a 2023 microfiche, but the 17-22 single r versions fork assemblies are Suzuki part number: 51103-17K01. This would lead me to belive the 23 is the same also ---but I'm not 100% certain.
i have a kawasaki zx10r 2020 and i am going to get it down by 1inc with your sterling damper kit
my question is do i have to make the suspension harder so when i brake hard it will not scratch the front fander
thanks for the advice sir
Are the BFF forks on the 1000R tapered the same way seems like I have about a half inch more fork tube sticking through my triple tree right from the factory than what you had in the video
No. They can be lowered much more.
Can we please have part 3 already !
Patience grasshopper (: - we have some very interesting info. for you in the next episode, it will be worth the wait.
Brock Davidson looking forward can’t wait 😊
Huge thanks to you for sharing this informative video Sir! I have lowered my rear end about 2inches coz i am a short rider. Will there be a problem or anything you can advice me with if i leave the front end as is and not lowered? Thanks in advance.
The bike will handle better if you lower the front to match the rear.
BIG THANKS Mr Brock for your reply and input. I will heed your advice.
Sir i have finally found time to lower the front and loved the handling. THANK YOU! And sir what can you suggest for a replacement thermo switch for the radiator for 2003 GSXR so the fan will turn on in a bit lower temperature. THANKS in advance .
Hy brock loving the videos all the way from Ireland. Did u make any videos of the zx6r setup.???
I recently traded my cbr650f in for a 2013 gixxer 750 and have lowering link for rear to install now on the front have you ever moved clipons above top triple tree when sliding forks up in triple tree to give lil more upright seating position
Yes - as long as the forks, brake lines, wiring etc. cooperate, it's and easy switch.
So we don't need to change the spring inside
Not to simply lower the front in the clamps. Sometimes the spring preload needs to be increased if the fender to faring clearance is tight.
@Brock - It's down right heresy that the community at large can't get you a new set of expensive ohlins! Someone has got to step up - hahaha!
So is that the farthest it will lower before the taper? how can u go about going low on the taper of the fork
You can't. It's unsafe.
Brock, I have a 2017 gsxr 1000, with your ecu flash, full exhaust, sprint filter, yes it’s stupid fast now. I’m considering lowering the bike myself. Couple questions, was an inch a good amount on your bike, after it was tested, or would you go more or less? Also, I do have a professionally trained background as a mechanic, aviation, but concerned about doing this job myself considering the power and speed of these bikes. If I follow your actions in your video will I have everything covered or is there any extra steps to make sure the setup is correct?
@Spratt Law Firm PLLC - if you have the standard model, like ours 1" is about as far as you can go and we don't see any issue at 1". If you have the R model, you don't have this constraint. We have several customers who have lowered their bikes 1 3/4 - 2", for strip use and it works fine. Your mechanical aviation background and our vid should make this a breeze for you - along with the Suzuki Service manual for spec and additional instructions. e-mail me: bmail@brocksperformance.com and I will forward a manual link if you need one.
Brock Davidson thanks Brock, I do have a service manual with the torque specs so I’ll try the 1” and see if that helps to keep the wheel on the ground. If I run into any issues I’ll hit you up...
Brock so if I have a 2018 Suzuki gsxr1000r model I can go father than 1 inch ?
@jason, yes. The R models have a larger section at the top of the fork that allows them to be dropped considerably more than the standard model.
Suspect a high 8 second bike here soon. :) Remove the stabilizer to save weight?
Brock great knowledge. How much would it cost for you to work on my bike for me? I can't do this on my own.
blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/do-i-need-to-physically-bring-my-bike-to-brocks-performance-in-ohio-for-a-performance-tune/
HI brock I'm sure you will explain it in your next video. But what I want to know is when you've lowered the front as much as you can like you did and strapped down. When you lower the back should it sit a bit higher then the front or as even as possible. Taking into account when you got a extended swingarm. And the amount of squat the bike has on launch
We cover in next episode.
Hey Brock, I recently bought a 2020 r1 and I’m wondering if you can tune my Ecu if I sent it to you, it’s still locked as far as my research goes.
Contact Bren Tuning Moto. They are the only ones to crack that ECU. Tell them we sent you.
@@BrockDavidson thanks!! I hope it can
If I needed to lift it back up a little bit what would be the best way to go about that?
In the front, it's possible to slightly loosen the clamps and tap the forks down with a plastic mallet. But...if you go too far you will need to lift the front end off of the ground to readjust.
@@BrockDavidson thanks for the reply....dropped my bike just a little tooo much and will be picking it up a half inch or so today
Thx for the info
thanks
Você é o cara parabéns.
Cool video. I have questions... I own a 2000 CBR 929. Decades ago i read about bikes being "professionally lowered" but no explanation was given on the process. Could it mean changing the springs in the forks? Lowering links? Or is it what we see here?
I lowered my 929 .500" in the front this way and lowered the back 1.00" with a lowering link. Honda has some stainless rings on the forks that fit into grooves in the forks which i removed to get the forks to slide.
Most older bikes allow the forks to be dropped in the triple trees. The rear will either need a an aftermarket lowering link or modification of the OEM link to lower the bike. A lowered bike will also need a lowered or adjustable kickstand.
@@BrockDavidson thanks for your reply. My question was is this considered "professional lowering"? Or is there some other method considered better like maybe for AMA race bikes as an example?
@@PANTYEATR1 I don't know what "professional lowering" means....
@@BrockDavidson I just stumbled on your videos and I really like seeing that you ( or your team ) is actively still responding to comments or questions on a video so old. If I may, what are your thoughts on progressive spring swaps to lower a bike? In my case it’s a Gen 1 Busa and I am not long legged. Will progressive springs create issues for the bike outside of less clearance for the underbelly?
The problem with progressive springs on bikes is that lowering comes at the expensive of proper suspension function. Per the replies above, replacing the links will allow similar operation to stock while also lowering the chassis.
why does suzuki still use a cable instead of hydralic clutch disengaugement action for the gsxr 1000 ?
It's lighter.
Can the strap be tight for normal street use also, or not recommended for suspension use on the street?
The strap can be tight on the street, but the ride is very harsh the suspension cannot properly function over bumps. Slight tension is OK, full tension should be reserved for drag strip use.
I found it very difficult to get accurate fork cap height measurements since the cap is quite beveled. Do you just pick any point and use the same? Great series!
@Tim V we go from a flat on the cap to a point under it - usually on the tree, but occasionally on the bar, etc... The forks will naturally compensate for small differences. I stay with .010 - but I have seen others vary as much as 1/8 inch and still work (not recommended). If you get as close as you can with calipers, you will be fine. This might help you also: brocksperformance.com/content/Instructions/S1000RR/998035.pdf
@@BrockDavidson thanks Brock!! Look forward to the bearing replacement vid.
@BrockDavidson, Great vid as always. Do you know if anyone or if you guys will be making billet short stacks for this bike?
@Ryan - thank you, glad you like the series. We have no plans to produce billet stacks for this bike here at Brock's. You might want to contact Marc at Factory Pro as this would be one of their specialties.
So if I lowered a zx10r 2in in rear how much would I adjuste the front for street?
The amount needed to keep the bike level as ridden.
Brock very good videos . I'd like to know more about airbox heat gold wrap
Worth it? Any benefits?
Chadi Nemer no benefits we can measure.
Thank u!)
Brock, what's the best exhaust for a banana?
Great question. But first we would need to deeply dive into answering the questions: WHY is your banana making noise? How much noise is your banana making? And how much noise to we wish to suppress from your banana? If the maximum allowable banana noise standard is government mandated, an officially approved or homologated banana noise reduction solution would be required.
@@BrockDavidson also.we need to take into consideration if the banana is Euro4 compliant
You don't you have this tapering problem on the Showa BFF forks of the R model, do you?
No. The R model can be lowered as far as needed.
@@BrockDavidson Because the shocks on the R model don't taper, right? It's a bit weird that the Showas on the base model taper and BFFs on the R model don't...
The BFF"s still taper, they just give you more room to adjust lower than the forks on the standard model.
I need my Gsxr750 lowered and I am not sure how much the front forks can be lowered to. I see that you did about 1.2 inch but I need more. You described that it tapers at the bottom. If I go any lower, what parts will I need so that it won’t loosen?
As long as you are not clamping on a tapered section of the forks, you are fine. Some of the 750s allow for as much as. 3" drop.
@@BrockDavidson how would I be able to drop 3 inches if you were only doing around 1.2? I have a 2019 model. Would there be some parts that could potentially help lower it by 3 inches as it will hit the part that tapers if I do.
@@joycetam9728 try lowering it as much as possible now and see if that works for you. Any lower and you will need to get your forks shortened.
@@joycetam9728 you are dropping the SEAT HEIGHT. which happens with a combination of fork drop, lowering link install and strap. They all add up to 3" seat drop.
@@BrockDavidson I don’t have straps for lowering, just some links. Hopefully I can drop 3 inches front and back without any problems. I will definitely keep you posted! Will be following your video about dropping the front since the model is the same. I don’t think I want to cut the forks in case I want to sell it in the future.
i just did this to my sv650s
you think my bike will be fine?
We have lowered all types of bikes over the years with no issues. Just remember that lowering the rear needs to happen also and you might need to cut or replace your kickstand with an adjustable unit.
I own a CBR 1000 RR 2008 with lowered front about 1 santimeter. I want drop bike 1.5 sm or 2 more down on the front , but fork place to tight will be no longer on 100% - maybe on 50%. Is it safe to ride and street race with 50% area on the fork? Also is it need to make a little more power to tight them for the safe?
Our bike currently has less than 50%. We tighten the clamps a bit more, so they can better conform to the taper - but be cautious as the bolts can snap and cause you big headaches.
what is the seat height after lowering bike sir
We lowered the seat height 4-5 inches total. I don't have the exact measurements.
I have a 2013 CBR 600RR would the process be the same?
Yes. Always be cautious if the forks are tapered. If they are straight, it's fairly easy to lower the front end. Please remember that you might also need to lower the rear as well as shorten the kickstand.
@@BrockDavidson I have the lowering link for the rear, didn’t even think about the kickstand. Thank you.
Hi Brock you have missed one video with afr vs rwhp. ;)
Mati Morini lol, I can't figure out a way to explain it... Try this: blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/how-can-brocks-get-mapping-so-close/
@@BrockDavidson ok so what afr for max power in gsxr1000 2015 is the best?
The 'best' AFR for any engine is the one that's fastest on the track using s specified combination (pipe/filter/fuel/atmospheric conditions for that day etc...) there is no magic AFR that works well for all applications. As the link above explains, we start with the highest power producing AFR on the dyno. Let's say that is 13:2-1. But this is in a STATIC application (bike not moving) once we get to the track (DYNAMIC application- bike moving), we adjust the AFR to 12.8-1 or 13.6-1. If the bike goes faster with either one (typically we measure the back half ET), that is the map we use. Of course, if we go back to the dyno with the new Dynamic AFR map, the bike will read less HP on the dyno (since optimum AFR map for the dyno is no longer installed) - but the bike will be faster in the real world.
Is it bad to have one fork higher than the other one on the top ? i took my bike to get a new tire and the mechanic notice i had installed a lower kit on the back, but they didn't lower the front fork so he said he would lower.. Now i notice one fork is higher than the other one about a 1/4 of an inch.. bike doesn't really feel diff though. thanks
The forks should be as close to level as possible. We always try to lower the front the same as or slightly lower than the rear for most performance use.
Somewhere Dave moss is having a nightmare 🤣
lol, my friends at Ohlins start to convulse every time they see a front end tie down strap --- but they still can't find a way to compete with it for simplicity/price/performance value.
Can the exhaust on a sport bike support the weight with a jack under it?
They can, but they shouldn't. Find a place on the engine or frame and a block of wood to keep from scratching anything up.
Brock Davidson thanks for your prompt reply. I’m buying a lowered k8 1000 that I want to raise back up. I’ve never done the job before and I was wondering if putting a jack under the exhaust was a good idea or not. Then I came upon your video.
Amazing
Mines gonna be 1 electrical tape wide high
tape thickness or roll diameter? (lol, doesn't matter as long as you set-it up safely)
hi.i do have a 2010 r1.thinking of lowering it.is it fine if im just gonna do the front end? maybe around 1.5 inch? thanks
It is, but the reduced trail combined with a nose down config can make the bike 'twitchy'.
Where di you get the digital measuring tool?
They are 6" digital calipers. A Google search will help you find.
Maybe I missed it, but did you clarify why lowering it and still strapping it is better than just strapping it down to the same height? I've done both on different bikes, but mainly because there was room to do it on the Katana vs the gsxr which was stretched and spinning so I ended up releasing the strap.
Lower and strap lowers the CG. Unstraping can help reduce spin, but increasing rear traction (tire/pressure/shock etc.) to still allow strap use is the faster option.
@@BrockDavidson but how is lowering and strapping better than just strapping?
Oh and the part about the brake lever was cool. How much mph did y'all pickup once you fixed it?
That's what I was wondering. My K6 750 strapped was already low enough. Idk if it had room for another inch... Plus with it spinning I never had a need for it too... Yet (10" stretch and lowered rear as well).
My swb Katana 750 I done both. And glad I did because it still wanted to come up and it's longer and less powerful than the GSXR.
I understand longer and lower is more likely to spin. I guess I just didn't realize you couldn't strap these down low enough. He just never explained that in the video. He started to but I think he sidetracked himself.
Nice
I guess nobody noticed his clutch side clip on is about a inch lower then the brake side? Lol
Yep, you got me...we do adjust them one leg at a time.
Can you lower a 2022 MT-10?
I haven't met a bike that can't be lowered. That said, we have nothing for the mt-10. If you live near Ohio, put in a new product request: blog.brocksperformance.com/product-request/
Wares did you get the 1150from
In the background? It's mine.
@@BrockDavidson wow that was my second bike back in 1989 ,loved it
Anyone can help me out ... I’m trying to stretch my bike 8 in and I don’t know the right drop would be too much for a 3 in drop and also do I need to drop my front to equal it up let say 3 in back and 3 in front?
Many bikes won't accept a 3" drop in the front, if yours does, watch for fender clearance issues.. Especially after landing a hard wheelie. We usually drop 1 1/2 and use slight tension on the strap.
How do u lift it up
Floor jack under the oil pan with the rear wheel clamped in the bike lift.
Can we do this on an r6?
Sure!
lower the front created more down force as the result the bike go faster
Increased aerodynamic down force actually slows the bike down at high speeds. We lower the front end, to lower the CG to decrease wheelies, as this increases acceleration more that the added down force hurts. If that makes sense.
that will work same with ur kickstand.. always start with left since...i hope ud agree it makes the most sense, right ;) if u dont...u do u lol (covid mask zed)
What kind of vernier caliper is that?
Mitutoyo Digital Caliper Model #500-196-30
@@BrockDavidson thanx brock
Does the direction of the exhaust tip affect aerodynamics at high speeds? I see so many pipes sticking out diagonally sideways these days, and I can't help but think Newton's 3rd law has some effect when 15,000 rpm worth of hot gasses is shoving out that tip, and 160 mph wind is being bulged out its normal laminar shape around the tail of the bike.
@Lifted_Above - I have seen side outlet exhaust on very fast wheelie bar turbo bikes 'push' the front end of the bike off track to the point where they had to be converted to a rear exit for the bike to go straight. As for normally aspirated bikes, it's not something we have ever measured. That said, we keep our Alien Head exhaust short and low to help keep them out of the slipstream - they are angled and own many LSR speed records. Paying attention to Aero's at high speeds is paramount.
It's a great subject of conversation. I watch a lot of automotive related videos online as well, and I'm surprised at the location and direction of a lot of big drag car exhaust tips, especially forced induction exhausts. Clearly builders are being a little myopic with their focus on other things. Air acts very similar to water, the difference obviously being density, yet at 150mph+ the density of that air essentially gets much much worse.
@@exothermal.sprocket You are correct in regard to blown applications and the concern is more downward thrust for additional traction than propulsion.
Love the videos but is it just me or is your goatee blue?
Only for this series, for the Kaws, it's green 🍏😂
Sono moto progettate per andare veloce in curva e queste modifiche rovinano tutte le geometrie degli ingegneri Suzuki e dei piloti tester professionali 😢
These modification allow the bike to be used in racing that the engineers did not design for - the good news is that they perform world class when properly modified.
Fucking genius
Brock ypu should do a dyno run before bearings and after so people can see the affect on a 1000 instead of a grom lol 😆
After 600+ dyno runs on Gixzilla, I'm fairly sure we know how much power she makes - but for our viewers, anything ;)
@@BrockDavidson i love your channel! Its very professional and informative and i love that you dont skip steps!
Can i get a free slip on brock for my zx10
Maybe...blog.brocksperformance.com/racer-support-sponsorship-application/
WHY do you have your shop so fare away,my Kawasaki H2 sx 2018 need your love damit come to Belgium pleas
blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/do-i-need-to-physically-bring-my-bike-to-brocks-performance-in-ohio-for-a-performance-tune/
Brock the R model is not like that it can be moved
I know. We have several R customers who are at -2+"
Sometimes I am glad not to live in the USA when I see something like that. It might be good for a drag race, or just straight roads, but for normal road traffic, especially in curves, it is life threatening. The whole handling of the bike changes to the negative and makes the bike unsafe. For example, if you are stopped by the police in Germany with such a motorcycle, the motorcycle would be confiscated on the spot and the operating license of the vehicle is immediately invalid. If the belts were such a great thing, the motorcycle manufacturers would sell them as an option and it would be allowed all over Europe.
We are just as happy not to deal with such stifling regulations.
Haaaaaaaaaa, right! That's why you have the "speed" limit (I call it slow motion driving) and the Germans have their freedom on the "Autobahn"! Unfortunately, I don't live in Germany..