One main thing you didn't touch on was tire to tire alignment. Hence why the notches are on the back wheel. If you move your back wheel for any reason make sure it is aligned correctly. This is a major cause of speed wobble.
@@JayyBird93 self explanitory statement... either you or the handles slap the tank and it gives the bike a input to react and it normaly fixes it with that.
I'm from the UK and passed my bike test in 1983. This involved the examiner being on foot and watching you ride for as long as you were visible to him. For about half the test, you weren't visible to him at all. I know tests have become tougher since but what my 42 years of riding has taught me is that all new riders should learn what all main parts of a bike are - and how to make sure they're working properly. This should absolutely be part of the test and wish it had been for mine because it would have saved me from two horrific lock to lock tankslappers that, thankfully I managed to recover from. Sure, I learned over time from friends about the importance of tyre pressures, fork maintenance/operation, wheel alignment etc. But this should have been taught/learned as part of the test. If you're new to riding, teach yourself about this - it's crucial. The fact the test doesn't require it is outrageous. Make sure you don't suffer from this omission.
About the wheel alignment, at my place it's usually either the manufacturing is trash (well, domestically and horribly made bikes from Chinese licenses) that the whole frame of the bike is messed up, or teenagers' (or dudes with the mindset of one) modding goes wrong. I've been told by my father that I must get friends riding behind me on test rides, filming it on different angle then show me along with their reviews on me riding, in case I want to buy cheap/suspicious/nobrand ones. "You're my only son" he said, and almost a decade later I'm still riding the bike he bought for me - I never bother buying new one out fear that it would make him worry. About "Darwinism", man... Sh..t... I've witnessed so many of its "proofs" that I don't want to utter the word itself...
ANOTHER BIG MECHANICAL ISSUE THAT CAN CAUSE DEATH WOBBLES IS THE TRIPLE TREE BEARINGS. They gotta be TIGHT ENOUGH, but NOT TOO TIGHT, they can't be DAMAGED, and they need to be WELL LUBRICATED. This is one of the BIGGEST causes of death wobble, and like tires, almost EVERYBODY overlooks them as a possible cause.
Had that death wobble happen when I hit multiple potholes merging onto the highway in south east Michigan(Luna Pier). Guessing it was a 3 part combination of death grip and front tire bouncing slightly off to the side after bouncing out of the holes AND accelerating. I did end up putting my weight forward on the bike, loosened my grip on the bars, asked God for some help and it helped a lot
I like to call Ohio crater country lol. Highways are "generally" pretty solid, but literally any other road will seemingly have a pothole every 1000 feet.
@moze_- Just like New Orleans in Louisiana, which is why I don't ride my bike in New Orleans. Lastly, people get carjacked all of the time, and I have a rare and fully restored 1985 Yamaha 2 stroke RZ 350 Kenny Robert's Edition Bike, so I'm not taking any chances. Bought from Kaplan Cycles, the best around. They own the New England Motorcycle Museum. Kaplan America is their channel on You Tube. Check them out. You'll thank me later, if you don't already know about them.
Hey! Spunky Boyy, I like your channel, you share a lot of important info. I'm 74, started riding at 14. Bought myself a 78' GS1000 in 79' as a college graduation present to myself. Some fraternity ''Biffs & Chads'' mom & dads bought them ones too - invited me to drag race, one of their GS1000 did a tank slapper at 120mph ,bent him & bike. I put heavier fork oil in front air forks, I had a tank slapper racing. Called US Suzuki, told me , measure w/ a dipstick to assure fork oil levels were equal or air pressure in forks would not be equal. This worked, never another wobble. I hope my experience can save some bent bikes & bones.
Dude your the first guy iv heard apart from myself to bang on about tyre pressures! I'm lucky to have lots of older experienced guys around me and they always told me most riders bin there bikes on the roads due to poor tyre pressure and always check them before every ride ! And I always do ❤ 🤟🏻
I keep an eye on all of the peoples' bikes who show up at the same meets as I do or if I just see them on the road. Its scary how many glaring issues you can catch just glancing at peoples' bikes. Tire pressures are a big one. I can't comprehend how people don't notice because my bike feels SO off if its even 5lbs low. I know its not your or my responsibility, but I make sure to point these things out to people when I see them. I just want everyone to be safe!
Guys, here is our Savior HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Heavenly Father YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE - Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses) - Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah) Isaiah 42:8 "I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.” Isaiah 43:11 “I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.” Isaiah 45:5 “I am YaH, and there is none else.”
yeah, I learned my lesson the hard way... (even tho only damage was clutch lever, mirror and my ego lol) I kinda believed that mechanic did a good job aaaand he didn't. Now I check my tyre pressure before every ride. One note tho, I recommend to buy a good tyre pressure meter (or whatever it's called) bcoz that free air at gas stations is something you cannot rely on. Usually no one checks if it works correctly. My local gas station has that built in pressure meter and it shows lower values (cca by 0,5 - 0,7 bar) than my pressure meter. Which is a lot. I bought an "expensive" one specially tested for accurate measuring. So just be carefull with that free air at gas stations
I have another tip to prevent speed wobble. Check your front forks for leaks and if they are serviceable make sure that they are at the proper fluid level and even on both sides so that one fork isn't stronger than the other. This is what can induce speed wobble because each fork is fighting each other.
Absolutely. Forks don’t get enough love for the job they do. They turn, they take big impacts (big wheelies), they take the full weight of the motorcycle on hard breaking. And when they leak you lose your handling, damping, and breaks.
@@25aspooner the funny part is that steering wheel dampers can actually induce the wobble because they don't allow the opposing forks to harmonize. I've seen videos of motorcycles *with* dampers speed wobble and crash. I don't want to pretend that a few video examples are absolute but I have to say that it makes sense. If you have two forks trying to oppose the other and you death grip the bar, it enhances the wobble. The steering damper behaves like you are gripping the bar constantly and it's good for preventing instability mid-turn on a track but if you think about it, it's counterintuitive in regards to allowing the wobbling forks to stabilize by not 'letting go' of the bar. The damper never 'lets go' if you get what I mean.
Absolutely. I had forks that weren't equally pressured on my old GPz550 and the result were two monster tankslappers that friends told me they were amazed I managed to hang on to.
@@pierrewilliams1533 do you happen to know if your motorcycle has serviceable forks? I think it would be beneficial for someone who reads this in the future to know whether or not they can service them.
...Ya gotta find a better place to eat, brotha 😂😊. Wawa is only a good spot to eat for aggravating one's ulcer 😂 (Im kidding of course 😂). The Wawa's here in Va Beach are also called "kickstand ally" too (...all of us sportbike riders, here in Hampton Roads VA, always meet at Wawa 🤷🏽🏍).
bro that's the same bike you were working on, when you showed ppl what to look for in a used bike if your buying one, wow man love your channel, I want a bike soon, so your content really helps, God bless you bro fr fr.
As a new rider, l seen one of your vids and loved how you break everything down by step by step. Keep on making great vids man. You helped me maneuver from 4 fingers to 2 on the shifts lever💪
Great advice. Just wrecked my bike recently.. Another thing I see (even in this video) is guys slam that clutch lever when hauling ass and you can see they actually move the wheel slightly ans this causes speed wobble also. “Loosen up the grip”
Guys, Here is our Savior HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH” YaH is The Heavenly Father YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE - Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses) - Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah) Isaiah 42:8 "I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.” Isaiah 43:11 “I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.” Isaiah 45:5 “I am YaH, and there is none else.”
how he used the weight of his body to avoid crashing into the back of that car last second and then also avoided falling after the tank slapper is amazing
Never ridden a motorbike higher than 125cc before but here's me watching all the instruction video's anyway 😂 I wanna be fully prepared for when I'm driving ~650cc in a year or so
I have experienced a really mild tank slapper. Launched my bike and felt how the front wheel *of course* lifted off the ground a bit, I simply overreacted by engaging the rear brake way too quickly instead of backing off the throttle, at that point the front end compressed and in the moment it rebounded it started wobbling like crazy. Let off the bars, leaned all forward and it stopped just by the edge of asphalt, any second later and I would have been in a ditch with it. It wasn't as scary as losing traction on asphalt with new rear tire, geez how hard is it to correct when rear end tries to go sideways and then gripping sharply, jolting whole bike and rider with it left and right several times.. I have only bailed two times on bike, first time hitting a curb while parking and second time when front tire slid off in banked turn, me sliding down the road with my left leg under the bike. Ride safe!
I need to get one on my 636. But I’m SUPER thankful my 2007 Honda Cbr 600rr has the HESD “Honda electronic steering damper”, which they all come with from factory.👌🏽
I had it a few times, and if you still have enough power left due to not be going toooo fast, I always give more throttle so it lifts the front end a bit. That has helped till so far every time.
Dunlop tire company had done some fairly extensive tests on what causes speed wobbles, and while the factors are many the major culprit seems to be a flat or worn rear tire combined with a pointy front tire. To get out of a speed wobble neither accelerating nor braking nor staying at the same speed had much if any affect; the only thing that seemed to work was the rider dramatically lowering himself ie tucking in. Things like steering dampeners didn't get rid of speed wobbles but only seemed to increase the speed upon which they occurred at. Loose steering head bearings also seemed to cause speed wobbles (and every single Suzuki I've ever owned needed to have their steering head tightened and the pinch bolts adjusted).
Lane to lane asphalt pours or big parking lots where edges aren’t flattened out which creates a mini curb. Hit too many on an expressway in Florida decades ago. Figured out how to switch lanes in those areas if i changed lanes at all😂. Got real tired of that💩. Only ever happened in that one area too. In hundreds of miles over almost 2 decades
Absolutely spot on !! Appreciate the knowledge, my friend this can be very helpful to everyone. I’ve been riding 30+ years and you actually just taught me several tips. I look forward to more videos. I am now a follower.
In the 90s , shaking of the heed stock was a normal way of the bike telling you to back off and ride bit smoother. you got that wiggle from the handlebars and you thought "oh shit" and backed off a bit
just bought a 2019 zx6r my step bro builds drag racing bikes and suggested a 636 and to run it in low power mode for a while until i can use the full power but this helped a lot with soothing my nerves so thank you
On my MT09 I chop the throttle a lot. I heard bringing wheelies down hard might cause it but I didn't realize throttle chop + quick gear change could do it too. So used to riding sport bikes for 7 years, getting used to naked bikes. Also didn't realize leaning forward, no front brake, use of back instead all helps. Thanks for this!
Speed wobbles can absolutely happen on a bicycle, too. Had a severe case of it going downhill. On a bicycle you can overpower it by gripping hard, but don't even try that on a motorcycle.
The grip is REALLY good advice but the best I have ever heard about grip was from Spite from SpitesCorner, formerly YammieNoob co-host. He brought it up during one of his Bottom Sprocket podcasts with Whitney and Josh and talked about the Yamaha Race School he took and the "Ice Cream grip" you want to hold your bars as if you were licking a dripping ice cream cone. So you want your hands to be closer to the bar ends as you showed but instead of being straight towards your levers you want your hands angling back towards your center tree ever so slightly. So the outside edge of your hand and palm closer to your bar ends with your fingers at a slight angle inwards. This provides the largest contact patch and closest lever reach while still maintaining a loose grip.
Tank slappers are not caused by the lack of a steering damper. Tank slappers are caused by gripping the bars too tightly. Steering dampers should never be used as a crutch for a lack of riding skill.
Yup, set your tire pressures correctly, which means for that tire, NOT what is in the manual or on the swingarm, unless you are running the OEM tires... Once you deviate from the tires the bike shipped with, whatever is in the manual is no longer applicable. Call Dunlop or Pirelli or whatever you switch to and get what they recommend for that application. A general pressure you can start with is 34F and 36R cold on the street. Also, never run max pressures. The tire doesn't heat up by weaving back and forth... it heats up by the carcass flexing, and if the pressure it too high, it doesn't flex and it takes forever to get hot... After that, set the suspension up correctly and get a steering damper... The chances of a wobble with all off that done is very unlikely...
2003 R1 here without steering damper. I religiously check tire pressures AT LEAST every 2nd gas stop and always at the same stationary compressor (don´t use those mobile, carry around ones on many gas stations), but still it can happen sometimes, especially on bumpy streets. Haven´t had one as bad as some shown here (like, JESUS CHRIST, what are you doing?!) but when it happens, immediately loosen the grip on my right hand to let the gas go always worked for me. Since the bike already rapidly slows down from just that, the weight of the bike and you on top will automatically transfer to the front and help self-stabilising the front tire.
Another serious one im not sure how bad it is in the states but i see it all the time in canada, having something like a michiline front tire and a pirelli rear tire. Never mix your tires always keep a matching set. This can also cause the death wobbles as the two different tire types may be gaining different tractions as you turn, you ever notice how the wheel slightly moves back and forth in a turn kinda like a steering wheel. Thats whats happening the front tire is actually loosing traction and regaining traction due to the different treads may not seem like much but at 120km plus youll really notice it. It should be smooth. Next is long riding on tires and not contiually balancing them as the tire wears the weight changes and throws it off balance you ever notice you have a tire for 2 seasons although your changing your tires now you notice mainly on the front tire only a difference in tread wear thoughout the tire making look loke little hills instead of a smooth wear down, thats the reason for this and this can also cause the death wobbles.
I’m referring to a built in steering damper. They adjust on their on own, as u speed up it tightens up the steering. When ur not moving it should be smooth and easy to turn.
@@SpunkyBoyy A normal mechanical steering damper doesn't "adjust" in use at all, its just that a more violent input will produce more resistance. That's just how it is when the piston is trying to push oil through a fixed size orifice. Unless you have an electronically adjusted damper like Honda's HESD, where it's actually adjusting the damping relative to your speed, just like if you were to turn the adjuster nob on your mechanical damper.
Good points all around , tire pressure is important ... I noticed some bike are worse than others though due to frame geometry I assume , my old 929 was rock solid with no steering damper , never a head shake ever ... The ninjas I have owned where suspect though , had to put a steering damper on those old girls ... Most of the new stuff they come oem
Having your elbows out wide really helps on dirt bikes and adventure bikes and I'm sure on racing bikes too. You will be riding and get tired and relax your elbows and wobbles will start. Than you point your elbows out again and the wobbles stop. This is connected to "death grip".
Well done for saying damper instead of the recent Americanism of damp-en-er. I agree with the tyre pressure point. Absolutely critical first part of the suspension system.
Steering dampers are not part of the suspension system, they're part of the steering system, and steering dampers should never be used as a crutch for not knowing how to ride.
It happened to me in the 80's at 115 mph on a Yamaha 1100 (no damper then), I hit the rear brake slowly and loaded up the front wheel by leaning o the gas tank, it stopped wobbling soon after. That was a tip from a friend that was racing motorcycles. It's not a nice feeling specially at that speed. The wobbles were not as intense as in your clip though. Lots of good tips there.
Your comment that the damper (not dampener) should not offer resistance is patently false. That’s exactly what it’s designed to do. Most are adjustable for the amount of damping. I love the HESD (Honda electronic steering damper that self adjusts for conditions) as it has never given me a wobble tank slapper or wiggle of any type and that’s with over 50k miles in the canyons of Southern California…you’re spot on when you say lighten up on the bars and let the bike straighten itself out.
amateur engineer/comp rider here. if your front tire doesnt have enough grip, it wont keep in smooth contact with the road (imagine what your front tire would do if you were riding on ice). in a wobble, when the bars are turned, tire friction increases because the tire is misaligned with the road, and the grip increases along with that. from what ive always understood, wobbles happen when the front tire only has enough grip to correct itself when the bars are turned under this circumstance, but not enough to maintain it as the front end returns to 0 degrees. theres way too much math behind this for me to explain in a youtube comment, so ill just leave the solutions i know of here and let you guys do what you want with them. 1. good front tire grip (do not overfill front tire and the tire will have more contact with the road) 2. steering stabilizer (lengthens the window of time where the front tire is near 0 deg in a wobble, hastening recovery from a wobble after one begins) 3. for my fellow adrenaline junkies, get your front tire hot before doing wheelies at speed (regaining stable front tire grip as you set it back down will be more likely with a hot tire) i wish someone in r&d would study this and create some informative media testing these concepts, but alas, all we have to work with for now is theory. just remember that even with ideal tire pressure/temp, there are uncontrollable variables that can cause your front tire to lose grip such as the road surface/temp. nothing can truly "prevent" wobbles on many bikes, so get yourself a stabilizer so its there if you ever wish it was. id be decomposed confetti right now if i didnt have one. go at your own pace brothers. ✌
My concourse 14 handles very noticeably different if tire pressure is off even a couple psi, turns into a pig. I had a death wobble on my suzuki wes cooley. Mismatched tires were the cause i think. Suspension settings might have had an impact. Came on slow about 105, full wobble 110. Repeatable. Dampner, new tires, rebuild forks. Amazing how terror motivates maintenance
it honestly criminal that the 2021-23 zx6r doesn't come with a steering stabilizer stock. I got some wobbles cresting over a hill at the top of 3rd (I was gunning it so its 100% my fault). EVERYTHING mechanical on my bike is dialed. Tire pressure, suspension settings, etc. I also have relatively new tires. Anyways, the front went light and I was still putting a tiny bit of force into the bars (I just came out of a turn). When the bike came down, the front tire must have been a hair off of straight and boom. Death Wobble. I was already loose on the handle bars and, as mentioned, my bike is in perfect condition. Wobbles sorted themselves out in about 2 seconds. I'm getting a steering damper now. The Ohlins ones are expensive, but I'm not gonna cheap out on something that could save my life.
Oh, this is difficult to watch. I have a speed wobble story I should probably share, it has been enough years. I went down in a death wobble in the Oakland-Alameda tunnel due to speed and aggressive riding. I had on a threadbare t-shirt, shorts sandals & a helmet. Everybody drove too fast through that curved tunnel to Alameda. Tire hit one of those brass rolling things in the road bed meant to protect something else, I don't even know what those things are for but you do not want to hit one when you're pushing the edge of your skills heading into a curved tunnel. Saw it coming up, was gonna hit it, hit it, speed wobble, all happened seemingly at the same moment. Yeah I hit that thing in the road but, aggressive riding of a junk bike caused the accident. Wobble over 3 or 4 seconds became too extreme, I tried to force control & that threw the body of the bike into the wobble, curved tunnel mind you, knew I was going down so put my hands on my helmet then hit the deck with my helmet first, rolling it around so as not to grind through it, trying to flop around a bit while taking most of the road friction on my helmet, grinding off skin everywhere else as uniformly as possible until I came to a stop, there's no safe zone in that tunnel and cars were screaming by, bike wouldn't roll had to drag it to the edge of the tunnel bleeding from everywhere terrified of getting hit by all of the cars flying by. Not a pedestrian tunnel. Cop came said 'get it out of the tunnel' so I somehow did. Cop said 'nobody else involved, do you want to report this?' I didn't & was struggling to stand. Cop left. Needless to say, never made it to the sports bar. My buddy came back looking for me, took me to the hospital on his bike, I passed out on the way. Must've been a sight staggering into the ER they were really alarmed. Though a spectacle in full road rash mode, I was otherwise uninjured. They scraped all surfaces of my body for 45 minutes with a stiff bristle brush. At length I had to ask them to stop, there's still dirt in my knees from that one. Don't get too aggressive on a junky bike, something untoward could happen. Thankfully nobody else was hurt in my idiotic stunt.
I had one death wobble. It was on my 1990 yammy radian 600 at top speed. This man is correct 100%. I had a loose grip and that saved my damn life. Plus I had to buy a new pair of riding pants. 😬 ooops
About to watch this video, currently at 0:47. Planning to get my motorcycle driving licence, my first thought is it happens when the Front wheel doesn't get enough traction? Like the back wheel is going normally and the front is going slower. Ex: back wheel goes 60km/h and the front is either at full stop(somehow) or 40km/h? Kinda a stupid explanation, though I hope that you'll understand it somehow :D
For the some bikes like the first gen R1 it is a no brainer to buy a steering damper. In all other cases, you need a correct steering head bearing to prevent this.
OoOooO, one more thing mates. @ 9:00, you go over proper "grip". Would you say that its best to loosen your grip, and hold on to your bike with your knees (not with your arms)? Our arms/hands are mostly to used just to handle the "controls" (not the steering) on the bike. To actually stablize yourself on the bike, use your knees and not youe arms/hands. The inside of your knees should be a lil' sore the next day from squeezing the tank so much (stablizing yourself on the bike) from the previous day's ride 😉. Does that work for us for an explanation (....maybe not 🤷🏽😂🤦)?
You can buy tiny tyre pressure gauges that screw on the valve instead of the dust cap. Really handy, a quick look that its green before setting off saves time and you know you're good to go. You can get them set at different pressures. Also that rider in shorts on the highway pulling a wheelie, cringe 🙄
Death wobble is caused by lack of frame strength and stiffness. In front forks poor design or loose hardware add to the threat of this effect. Make certain all those fork bolts are torque wrench specification tight. If you get wobble get your body down lower on the bike which, reduces the twisting force applied to the frame. The higher you are such as standing on the foot pegs increases the twisting force on the frame. Loose spokes can be another issue. Tap spokes with a wrench noting that every spoke should ring tight. There is a big reason I prefer pro-link and similar suspension compared to dual rear springs. Now if we could just get these bike manufacturers to use a front suspension as found on a jet fighter instead of these lame dual struts with a properly triangulated frame this problem would not exist.
I've had it happen 2x now, once on my old FZR1000 years back, exiting a bend fast at about 120mph, hit a ripple strip on the exit edge of the corner, quick head shake and it was gone thankfully, the other time was was on an Yamaha RXS80 .....had a death wobble at 50mph like in the start of this vid lol, after passing a truck and coming back in front. Thankfully sorted itself out :D scared the living Shiebabble out of me :D
Ive always wanted to drive a motorbike since i was real young, and then i saw my first video of the death wobble and said fuck that. Now im trying to get back into it, but i wanna be as safe as possible to prevent the death wobble as much as possible
Stand up, lean slightly forward and push forward on the handlebars. This lets the bike absorb the wobble and float under you. The wobble will dissipate quickly, then sit back down and ride.
God bless everyone. stay strong and save and may the ones that have lost their lives seek justice and rest in peace. may the lord be with us and protect us every millisecond of the day and night. ❤🙏
Never drove a crotch rocket, but i found it best to carve out of them on a dirt bike. Almost killed myself enough on them to risk putting my dumb arse on a crotch rocket.
Bad idea trust me. If you want a bike but are inexperienced the best advice I could give is go with something 500cc or smaller for at least 6 months. It is possible that you could wheelie out of a wobble but to do that you'll need to accelerate which not only means you could crash at a faster speed but also could slip you off straight away if any of that wobble had transferred to your rear wheel. The other issue is that your weight shifts and if you can't fix it whilst in the wheelie eventually you're gonna have to land on a wobbly wheel at a now higher speed which is just an instant wipe out. But as he said don't touch that front brake, I did once in my first weeks of riding and slid down about 20 meters of road as a result. Luckily my bike only weighed 150kg and I was only doing 40mph since I took my own advice and started on a 250cc.
Side play in the swingarm! Any play in swing arm bearings brings wobble. My friends, 72 H2 Kawasaki has nylon swing arm bearings. His were loose and I watched him get tossed off at 80 miles an hour in a t shirt. The bike slid all the way down Bergdoll hill and burnt and melted. His back look like a pizza without cheese. … a tomato pie, if you will. He immediately went out and bought another one the same year and the same color.
Tire pressure is always annoying because everyone always says don't fill them to what the standards says then some say use way below. Some say 32 front 36 back. I personally use 33 front and 38 back. But I honestly don't know what exactly to use.
I broke my collar bone 4 years ago due to bike wobble, it was the scariest experience I had on motercycle. The road was smooth and I don't know what happend maybe it happend because I was over speeding
My guy. It's a steering damper. Not a steering dampener. We ain't making your steering moist. Rear braking is excellent to help control a tank slapper. Dragging the rear brake will cause the rear of the bike to squat slightly, which has the effect of increasing the rake angle of the steering. More rake angle makes the bike more stable, but reduces high speed agility, which is why sportsbikes have very little rake angle. It makes them steer very quickly at high speeds, but also introduces instability that can manifest as "speed wobbles".
One main thing you didn't touch on was tire to tire alignment. Hence why the notches are on the back wheel. If you move your back wheel for any reason make sure it is aligned correctly. This is a major cause of speed wobble.
Tank slapper will happen till the front and rear tire come back into center.
@@JayyBird93 self explanitory statement... either you or the handles slap the tank and it gives the bike a input to react and it normaly fixes it with that.
@@JayyBird93 your handlebars go left and right without user input and that tends to slap the tank left and right. Again, it's in the name.
@@DTPGMedia585 🤣
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I'm from the UK and passed my bike test in 1983. This involved the examiner being on foot and watching you ride for as long as you were visible to him. For about half the test, you weren't visible to him at all. I know tests have become tougher since but what my 42 years of riding has taught me is that all new riders should learn what all main parts of a bike are - and how to make sure they're working properly. This should absolutely be part of the test and wish it had been for mine because it would have saved me from two horrific lock to lock tankslappers that, thankfully I managed to recover from. Sure, I learned over time from friends about the importance of tyre pressures, fork maintenance/operation, wheel alignment etc. But this should have been taught/learned as part of the test. If you're new to riding, teach yourself about this - it's crucial. The fact the test doesn't require it is outrageous. Make sure you don't suffer from this omission.
Darwinism at it's best.
About the wheel alignment, at my place it's usually either the manufacturing is trash (well, domestically and horribly made bikes from Chinese licenses) that the whole frame of the bike is messed up, or teenagers' (or dudes with the mindset of one) modding goes wrong. I've been told by my father that I must get friends riding behind me on test rides, filming it on different angle then show me along with their reviews on me riding, in case I want to buy cheap/suspicious/nobrand ones. "You're my only son" he said, and almost a decade later I'm still riding the bike he bought for me - I never bother buying new one out fear that it would make him worry.
About "Darwinism", man... Sh..t... I've witnessed so many of its "proofs" that I don't want to utter the word itself...
ANOTHER BIG MECHANICAL ISSUE THAT CAN CAUSE DEATH WOBBLES IS THE TRIPLE TREE BEARINGS. They gotta be TIGHT ENOUGH, but NOT TOO TIGHT, they can't be DAMAGED, and they need to be WELL LUBRICATED. This is one of the BIGGEST causes of death wobble, and like tires, almost EVERYBODY overlooks them as a possible cause.
Had Yamaha, Suzuki, and Honda. All new from dealer had loose triple clamps/ headsets. Always be aware of mechanical stuff on a motorcycle.
Had that death wobble happen when I hit multiple potholes merging onto the highway in south east Michigan(Luna Pier). Guessing it was a 3 part combination of death grip and front tire bouncing slightly off to the side after bouncing out of the holes AND accelerating. I did end up putting my weight forward on the bike, loosened my grip on the bars, asked God for some help and it helped a lot
Yeah sounds like those damn potholes messed up the tire alignment. We have them all over Jersey😒
Amen😮
Hell, in New Orleans, we don't have potholes. We call them sinkholes.....because of how big they are.
I like to call Ohio crater country lol. Highways are "generally" pretty solid, but literally any other road will seemingly have a pothole every 1000 feet.
@moze_- Just like New Orleans in Louisiana, which is why I don't ride my bike in New Orleans. Lastly, people get carjacked all of the time, and I have a rare and fully restored 1985 Yamaha 2 stroke RZ 350 Kenny Robert's Edition Bike, so I'm not taking any chances. Bought from Kaplan Cycles, the best around. They own the New England Motorcycle Museum. Kaplan America is their channel on You Tube. Check them out. You'll thank me later, if you don't already know about them.
Hey! Spunky Boyy, I like your channel, you share a lot of important info. I'm 74, started riding at 14. Bought myself a 78' GS1000 in 79' as a college graduation present to myself. Some fraternity ''Biffs & Chads'' mom & dads bought them ones too - invited me to drag race, one of their GS1000 did a tank slapper at 120mph ,bent him & bike. I put heavier fork oil in front air forks, I had a tank slapper racing. Called US Suzuki, told me , measure w/ a dipstick to assure fork oil levels were equal or air pressure in forks would not be equal. This worked, never another wobble. I hope my experience can save some bent bikes & bones.
thank you!
Really good review and spot on with those points. VERY glad you mentioned tire pressure right from the start. Really important.
2:59 That "62" overlay gave me a good laugh.
Dude your the first guy iv heard apart from myself to bang on about tyre pressures! I'm lucky to have lots of older experienced guys around me and they always told me most riders bin there bikes on the roads due to poor tyre pressure and always check them before every ride ! And I always do ❤ 🤟🏻
I keep an eye on all of the peoples' bikes who show up at the same meets as I do or if I just see them on the road. Its scary how many glaring issues you can catch just glancing at peoples' bikes. Tire pressures are a big one. I can't comprehend how people don't notice because my bike feels SO off if its even 5lbs low. I know its not your or my responsibility, but I make sure to point these things out to people when I see them. I just want everyone to be safe!
Guys, here is our Savior
HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Heavenly Father
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
- Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses)
- Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
Isaiah 42:8
"I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.”
Isaiah 43:11
“I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.”
Isaiah 45:5
“I am YaH, and there is none else.”
yeah, I learned my lesson the hard way... (even tho only damage was clutch lever, mirror and my ego lol) I kinda believed that mechanic did a good job aaaand he didn't. Now I check my tyre pressure before every ride. One note tho, I recommend to buy a good tyre pressure meter (or whatever it's called) bcoz that free air at gas stations is something you cannot rely on. Usually no one checks if it works correctly. My local gas station has that built in pressure meter and it shows lower values (cca by 0,5 - 0,7 bar) than my pressure meter. Which is a lot. I bought an "expensive" one specially tested for accurate measuring. So just be carefull with that free air at gas stations
I have another tip to prevent speed wobble. Check your front forks for leaks and if they are serviceable make sure that they are at the proper fluid level and even on both sides so that one fork isn't stronger than the other. This is what can induce speed wobble because each fork is fighting each other.
Absolutely. Forks don’t get enough love for the job they do. They turn, they take big impacts (big wheelies), they take the full weight of the motorcycle on hard breaking. And when they leak you lose your handling, damping, and breaks.
@@25aspooner the funny part is that steering wheel dampers can actually induce the wobble because they don't allow the opposing forks to harmonize. I've seen videos of motorcycles *with* dampers speed wobble and crash. I don't want to pretend that a few video examples are absolute but I have to say that it makes sense. If you have two forks trying to oppose the other and you death grip the bar, it enhances the wobble. The steering damper behaves like you are gripping the bar constantly and it's good for preventing instability mid-turn on a track but if you think about it, it's counterintuitive in regards to allowing the wobbling forks to stabilize by not 'letting go' of the bar. The damper never 'lets go' if you get what I mean.
Absolutely. I had forks that weren't equally pressured on my old GPz550 and the result were two monster tankslappers that friends told me they were amazed I managed to hang on to.
@@pierrewilliams1533 do you happen to know if your motorcycle has serviceable forks? I think it would be beneficial for someone who reads this in the future to know whether or not they can service them.
@@MyWatchIsEndedI’m interested too. How can you tell?
Bro said Wawa and I got fucking hungry
😆😀
...Ya gotta find a better place to eat, brotha 😂😊. Wawa is only a good spot to eat for aggravating one's ulcer 😂 (Im kidding of course 😂). The Wawa's here in Va Beach are also called "kickstand ally" too (...all of us sportbike riders, here in Hampton Roads VA, always meet at Wawa 🤷🏽🏍).
😂
That clip of the dude almost rear-ending the car during a speed wobble always makes me tense 😬
bro that's the same bike you were working on, when you showed ppl what to look for in a used bike if your buying one, wow man love your channel, I want a bike soon, so your content really helps, God bless you bro fr fr.
I’m glad ur enjoying them, and I’m happy to help in any way I can👊🏻💯 thank you very much!
@@SpunkyBoyy yezirrrrrr, thank you bro bro 👉🏻👈🏼✝️✝️✝️✝️✝️✝️✝️✝️💯💯
As a new rider, l seen one of your vids and loved how you break everything down by step by step. Keep on making great vids man. You helped me maneuver from 4 fingers to 2 on the shifts lever💪
Thanks! I’m glad you’re enjoying them💯
Great advice. Just wrecked my bike recently..
Another thing I see (even in this video) is guys slam that clutch lever when hauling ass and you can see they actually move the wheel slightly ans this causes speed wobble also. “Loosen up the grip”
Hope you’re alright dude
Glad I came across your channel. You give great advice and always keep it interesting. Much love ❤
I appreciate that❤️🤘🏻
Guys, Here is our Savior
HalleluYAH translates “Praise ye YaH”
YaH is The Heavenly Father
YaH arrives via the TENT OF MEETING
YaH was Who they Crucified for our sins
YaH was Crucified on an Almond TREE
- Ancient Semitic Cuneiform of Moshe (Moses)
- Isa Scroll (The Original Isaiah)
Isaiah 42:8
"I am YaH; that is my Name! I will not yield my glory to another or my praise to idols.”
Isaiah 43:11
“I am YAH, and there is no other Savior but Me.”
Isaiah 45:5
“I am YaH, and there is none else.”
Life saving information, thank you. Clear explanation, great advice re correcting the wobble and the maintenance tips are spot on, great video!
how he used the weight of his body to avoid crashing into the back of that car last second and then also avoided falling after the tank slapper is amazing
Never ridden a motorbike higher than 125cc before but here's me watching all the instruction video's anyway 😂
I wanna be fully prepared for when I'm driving ~650cc in a year or so
One of the only riders worth taking advice from on RUclips
Thanks! That means a lot to me👌🏻💯
I have experienced a really mild tank slapper. Launched my bike and felt how the front wheel *of course* lifted off the ground a bit, I simply overreacted by engaging the rear brake way too quickly instead of backing off the throttle, at that point the front end compressed and in the moment it rebounded it started wobbling like crazy. Let off the bars, leaned all forward and it stopped just by the edge of asphalt, any second later and I would have been in a ditch with it. It wasn't as scary as losing traction on asphalt with new rear tire, geez how hard is it to correct when rear end tries to go sideways and then gripping sharply, jolting whole bike and rider with it left and right several times.. I have only bailed two times on bike, first time hitting a curb while parking and second time when front tire slid off in banked turn, me sliding down the road with my left leg under the bike.
Ride safe!
Wish I could like this a thousand times. Word for word before you said what to do, that's what I was verbalizing while watching.
I need to get one on my 636. But I’m SUPER thankful my 2007 Honda Cbr 600rr has the HESD “Honda electronic steering damper”, which they all come with from factory.👌🏽
I had it a few times, and if you still have enough power left due to not be going toooo fast, I always give more throttle so it lifts the front end a bit. That has helped till so far every time.
Dunlop tire company had done some fairly extensive tests on what causes speed wobbles, and while the factors are many the major culprit seems to be a flat or worn rear tire combined with a pointy front tire. To get out of a speed wobble neither accelerating nor braking nor staying at the same speed had much if any affect; the only thing that seemed to work was the rider dramatically lowering himself ie tucking in.
Things like steering dampeners didn't get rid of speed wobbles but only seemed to increase the speed upon which they occurred at. Loose steering head bearings also seemed to cause speed wobbles (and every single Suzuki I've ever owned needed to have their steering head tightened and the pinch bolts adjusted).
dunlop doing amazing work!
I remember a few years back I asked this rider how to come out of a death wobble and he said all you have to do is tuck in and it fixes itself
Exactly. Change the weight distribution, change the natural frequency.
Lane to lane asphalt pours or big parking lots where edges aren’t flattened out which creates a mini curb. Hit too many on an expressway in Florida decades ago. Figured out how to switch lanes in those areas if i changed lanes at all😂. Got real tired of that💩. Only ever happened in that one area too. In hundreds of miles over almost 2 decades
tuck in as in, hunch over, lower down and pull yourself in towards the bike, like a turtle retracting into its shell?
the clip at 0:16 has to do wit Vereena the RUclipsr, man shit's sad af. Really hoping she pulls through and can recover faster than ever 🙏🏼
I always thought that you were supposed to grab harder when that happens... Good to know the correct way to act in that type of situation.
Absolutely spot on !! Appreciate the knowledge, my friend this can be very helpful to everyone. I’ve been riding 30+ years and you actually just taught me several tips. I look forward to more videos. I am now a follower.
In the 90s , shaking of the heed stock was a normal way of the bike telling you to back off and ride bit smoother.
you got that wiggle from the handlebars and you thought "oh shit" and backed off a bit
How about just slow the f-- down!
@@knuckles-3386 we did 😛
just bought a 2019 zx6r my step bro builds drag racing bikes and suggested a 636 and to run it in low power mode for a while until i can use the full power but this helped a lot with soothing my nerves so thank you
On my MT09 I chop the throttle a lot. I heard bringing wheelies down hard might cause it but I didn't realize throttle chop + quick gear change could do it too. So used to riding sport bikes for 7 years, getting used to naked bikes. Also didn't realize leaning forward, no front brake, use of back instead all helps. Thanks for this!
man, so nicely summed up and clear to understand. Thank you because it is practically and nicely explained.
one grateful here !
Glad it was helpful! Thanks💯
Speed wobbles can absolutely happen on a bicycle, too.
Had a severe case of it going downhill.
On a bicycle you can overpower it by gripping hard, but don't even try that on a motorcycle.
This was incredibly helpful. Thanks!
The grip is REALLY good advice but the best I have ever heard about grip was from Spite from SpitesCorner, formerly YammieNoob co-host. He brought it up during one of his Bottom Sprocket podcasts with Whitney and Josh and talked about the Yamaha Race School he took and the "Ice Cream grip" you want to hold your bars as if you were licking a dripping ice cream cone. So you want your hands to be closer to the bar ends as you showed but instead of being straight towards your levers you want your hands angling back towards your center tree ever so slightly. So the outside edge of your hand and palm closer to your bar ends with your fingers at a slight angle inwards. This provides the largest contact patch and closest lever reach while still maintaining a loose grip.
I suggest to you guys to have a stabilizer steering damper. Thats thing can save you from wobbling
Tank slappers are not caused by the lack of a steering damper.
Tank slappers are caused by gripping the bars too tightly.
Steering dampers should never be used as a crutch for a lack of riding skill.
Yup, set your tire pressures correctly, which means for that tire, NOT what is in the manual or on the swingarm, unless you are running the OEM tires... Once you deviate from the tires the bike shipped with, whatever is in the manual is no longer applicable. Call Dunlop or Pirelli or whatever you switch to and get what they recommend for that application. A general pressure you can start with is 34F and 36R cold on the street.
Also, never run max pressures. The tire doesn't heat up by weaving back and forth... it heats up by the carcass flexing, and if the pressure it too high, it doesn't flex and it takes forever to get hot...
After that, set the suspension up correctly and get a steering damper... The chances of a wobble with all off that done is very unlikely...
Recently swapped out fluid in my gpr stabilizer, put heavyweight fluid in, now it gets real stiff if need be. 👌
TCLOCS is extemely important. If you pizza when you french fry on your TCLOCS, you're gonna have a bad time
2003 R1 here without steering damper. I religiously check tire pressures AT LEAST every 2nd gas stop and always at the same stationary compressor (don´t use those mobile, carry around ones on many gas stations), but still it can happen sometimes, especially on bumpy streets.
Haven´t had one as bad as some shown here (like, JESUS CHRIST, what are you doing?!) but when it happens, immediately loosen the grip on my right hand to let the gas go always worked for me. Since the bike already rapidly slows down from just that, the weight of the bike and you on top will automatically transfer to the front and help self-stabilising the front tire.
Another serious one im not sure how bad it is in the states but i see it all the time in canada, having something like a michiline front tire and a pirelli rear tire. Never mix your tires always keep a matching set. This can also cause the death wobbles as the two different tire types may be gaining different tractions as you turn, you ever notice how the wheel slightly moves back and forth in a turn kinda like a steering wheel. Thats whats happening the front tire is actually loosing traction and regaining traction due to the different treads may not seem like much but at 120km plus youll really notice it. It should be smooth. Next is long riding on tires and not contiually balancing them as the tire wears the weight changes and throws it off balance you ever notice you have a tire for 2 seasons although your changing your tires now you notice mainly on the front tire only a difference in tread wear thoughout the tire making look loke little hills instead of a smooth wear down, thats the reason for this and this can also cause the death wobbles.
Dude this is why I'm subscribed, super good advice as always.
Damper can make the wheel harder to turn if that’s how you want it. If you don’t want immediate feedback in a particular direction
I’m referring to a built in steering damper. They adjust on their on own, as u speed up it tightens up the steering. When ur not moving it should be smooth and easy to turn.
@@SpunkyBoyy A normal mechanical steering damper doesn't "adjust" in use at all, its just that a more violent input will produce more resistance. That's just how it is when the piston is trying to push oil through a fixed size orifice. Unless you have an electronically adjusted damper like Honda's HESD, where it's actually adjusting the damping relative to your speed, just like if you were to turn the adjuster nob on your mechanical damper.
Good points all around , tire pressure is important ... I noticed some bike are worse than others though due to frame geometry I assume , my old 929 was rock solid with no steering damper , never a head shake ever ... The ninjas I have owned where suspect though , had to put a steering damper on those old girls ... Most of the new stuff they come oem
‘01 Gsxr will learn ya… I will put an aftermarket stabilizer on every bike, first thing, because of my ‘01… fool me once…
Having your elbows out wide really helps on dirt bikes and adventure bikes and I'm sure on racing bikes too. You will be riding and get tired and relax your elbows and wobbles will start. Than you point your elbows out again and the wobbles stop. This is connected to "death grip".
Well done for saying damper instead of the recent Americanism of damp-en-er.
I agree with the tyre pressure point. Absolutely critical first part of the suspension system.
Steering dampers are not part of the suspension system, they're part of the steering system, and steering dampers should never be used as a crutch for not knowing how to ride.
🏍 On the race track we used to make ourselves small and press our elbows against the tank, now there are steering dampers 🏍
Learned a lot from your videos…Thanks man!👍
Of course! Glad to help
add throttle , it counter to reaction but some older bikes doit
That last video is freacking scary
It happened to me in the 80's at 115 mph on a Yamaha 1100 (no damper then), I hit the rear brake slowly and loaded up the front wheel by leaning o the gas tank, it stopped wobbling soon after. That was a tip from a friend that was racing motorcycles. It's not a nice feeling specially at that speed. The wobbles were not as intense as in your clip though. Lots of good tips there.
Tank slappers are way of life and occur regularly when you push a bike to its limits.
There easy to recover
i usually ride with the tire pressure about 5 psi below manufacturer spec. otherwise youre gonna be sliding around.
Your comment that the damper (not dampener) should not offer resistance is patently false. That’s exactly what it’s designed to do. Most are adjustable for the amount of damping. I love the HESD (Honda electronic steering damper that self adjusts for conditions) as it has never given me a wobble tank slapper or wiggle of any type and that’s with over 50k miles in the canyons of Southern California…you’re spot on when you say lighten up on the bars and let the bike straighten itself out.
amateur engineer/comp rider here. if your front tire doesnt have enough grip, it wont keep in smooth contact with the road (imagine what your front tire would do if you were riding on ice). in a wobble, when the bars are turned, tire friction increases because the tire is misaligned with the road, and the grip increases along with that. from what ive always understood, wobbles happen when the front tire only has enough grip to correct itself when the bars are turned under this circumstance, but not enough to maintain it as the front end returns to 0 degrees. theres way too much math behind this for me to explain in a youtube comment, so ill just leave the solutions i know of here and let you guys do what you want with them.
1. good front tire grip (do not overfill front tire and the tire will have more contact with the road)
2. steering stabilizer (lengthens the window of time where the front tire is near 0 deg in a wobble, hastening recovery from a wobble after one begins)
3. for my fellow adrenaline junkies, get your front tire hot before doing wheelies at speed (regaining stable front tire grip as you set it back down will be more likely with a hot tire)
i wish someone in r&d would study this and create some informative media testing these concepts, but alas, all we have to work with for now is theory. just remember that even with ideal tire pressure/temp, there are uncontrollable variables that can cause your front tire to lose grip such as the road surface/temp. nothing can truly "prevent" wobbles on many bikes, so get yourself a stabilizer so its there if you ever wish it was. id be decomposed confetti right now if i didnt have one. go at your own pace brothers. ✌
My concourse 14 handles very noticeably different if tire pressure is off even a couple psi, turns into a pig. I had a death wobble on my suzuki wes cooley. Mismatched tires were the cause i think. Suspension settings might have had an impact. Came on slow about 105, full wobble 110. Repeatable. Dampner, new tires, rebuild forks. Amazing how terror motivates maintenance
it honestly criminal that the 2021-23 zx6r doesn't come with a steering stabilizer stock. I got some wobbles cresting over a hill at the top of 3rd (I was gunning it so its 100% my fault). EVERYTHING mechanical on my bike is dialed. Tire pressure, suspension settings, etc. I also have relatively new tires. Anyways, the front went light and I was still putting a tiny bit of force into the bars (I just came out of a turn). When the bike came down, the front tire must have been a hair off of straight and boom. Death Wobble. I was already loose on the handle bars and, as mentioned, my bike is in perfect condition. Wobbles sorted themselves out in about 2 seconds.
I'm getting a steering damper now. The Ohlins ones are expensive, but I'm not gonna cheap out on something that could save my life.
Your bike sounds beautiful dawg
Thanks! M4 with a eBay mid pipe lol
Oh, this is difficult to watch. I have a speed wobble story I should probably share, it has been enough years.
I went down in a death wobble in the Oakland-Alameda tunnel due to speed and aggressive riding. I had on a threadbare t-shirt, shorts sandals & a helmet. Everybody drove too fast through that curved tunnel to Alameda. Tire hit one of those brass rolling things in the road bed meant to protect something else, I don't even know what those things are for but you do not want to hit one when you're pushing the edge of your skills heading into a curved tunnel. Saw it coming up, was gonna hit it, hit it, speed wobble, all happened seemingly at the same moment. Yeah I hit that thing in the road but, aggressive riding of a junk bike caused the accident. Wobble over 3 or 4 seconds became too extreme, I tried to force control & that threw the body of the bike into the wobble, curved tunnel mind you, knew I was going down so put my hands on my helmet then hit the deck with my helmet first, rolling it around so as not to grind through it, trying to flop around a bit while taking most of the road friction on my helmet, grinding off skin everywhere else as uniformly as possible until I came to a stop, there's no safe zone in that tunnel and cars were screaming by, bike wouldn't roll had to drag it to the edge of the tunnel bleeding from everywhere terrified of getting hit by all of the cars flying by. Not a pedestrian tunnel. Cop came said 'get it out of the tunnel' so I somehow did. Cop said 'nobody else involved, do you want to report this?' I didn't & was struggling to stand. Cop left. Needless to say, never made it to the sports bar. My buddy came back looking for me, took me to the hospital on his bike, I passed out on the way. Must've been a sight staggering into the ER they were really alarmed. Though a spectacle in full road rash mode, I was otherwise uninjured. They scraped all surfaces of my body for 45 minutes with a stiff bristle brush. At length I had to ask them to stop, there's still dirt in my knees from that one. Don't get too aggressive on a junky bike, something untoward could happen. Thankfully nobody else was hurt in my idiotic stunt.
I had one death wobble. It was on my 1990 yammy radian 600 at top speed. This man is correct 100%. I had a loose grip and that saved my damn life. Plus I had to buy a new pair of riding pants. 😬 ooops
Idk how big of a franchise royal farms is, but here in Maryland, yeah air is free at rofo too... but they're broken most of the time
About to watch this video, currently at 0:47. Planning to get my motorcycle driving licence, my first thought is it happens when the Front wheel doesn't get enough traction? Like the back wheel is going normally and the front is going slower. Ex: back wheel goes 60km/h and the front is either at full stop(somehow) or 40km/h? Kinda a stupid explanation, though I hope that you'll understand it somehow :D
For the some bikes like the first gen R1 it is a no brainer to buy a steering damper. In all other cases, you need a correct steering head bearing to prevent this.
0:48 when you said wah wah I heard it like womp womp as in that's the noise that plays when you death wobble
Proper tire pressure, and rear tire alignment.
Thanks man! Super informative!
I dont ride a bike , yet… but i hope this will help me when i get my license next year tysm
Bike sounds sick bro did you change the headers? Appreciate the tips ride safe out there!
OoOooO, one more thing mates. @ 9:00, you go over proper "grip". Would you say that its best to loosen your grip, and hold on to your bike with your knees (not with your arms)? Our arms/hands are mostly to used just to handle the "controls" (not the steering) on the bike. To actually stablize yourself on the bike, use your knees and not youe arms/hands. The inside of your knees should be a lil' sore the next day from squeezing the tank so much (stablizing yourself on the bike) from the previous day's ride 😉. Does that work for us for an explanation (....maybe not 🤷🏽😂🤦)?
holy damn, there was a happy ending to some of those clips!
scary stuff
Sheetz , on the east coast, also has free air pumps.
Lol driving bikes that "death wobble" on the street, made my day, I'm laughing so hard right now.
Nice buddy, very informative ✌️👍🏽
Dude got permanent pavement rash
You can buy tiny tyre pressure gauges that screw on the valve instead of the dust cap. Really handy, a quick look that its green before setting off saves time and you know you're good to go. You can get them set at different pressures. Also that rider in shorts on the highway pulling a wheelie, cringe 🙄
Death wobble is caused by lack of frame strength and stiffness. In front forks poor design or loose hardware add to the threat of this effect. Make certain all those fork bolts are torque wrench specification tight. If you get wobble get your body down lower on the bike which, reduces the twisting force applied to the frame. The higher you are such as standing on the foot pegs increases the twisting force on the frame. Loose spokes can be another issue. Tap spokes with a wrench noting that every spoke should ring tight. There is a big reason I prefer pro-link and similar suspension compared to dual rear springs. Now if we could just get these bike manufacturers to use a front suspension as found on a jet fighter instead of these lame dual struts with a properly triangulated frame this problem would not exist.
I've had it happen 2x now, once on my old FZR1000 years back, exiting a bend fast at about 120mph, hit a ripple strip on the exit edge of the corner, quick head shake and it was gone thankfully, the other time was was on an Yamaha RXS80 .....had a death wobble at 50mph like in the start of this vid lol, after passing a truck and coming back in front. Thankfully sorted itself out :D scared the living Shiebabble out of me :D
Ive always wanted to drive a motorbike since i was real young, and then i saw my first video of the death wobble and said fuck that. Now im trying to get back into it, but i wanna be as safe as possible to prevent the death wobble as much as possible
Stand up, lean slightly forward and push forward on the handlebars. This lets the bike absorb the wobble and float under you. The wobble will dissipate quickly, then sit back down and ride.
Lol, no. Obviously you don't even know how to ride.
@@YernBelfus400 it has saved me a couple of times before. Maybe you should try it.
@wchitwood65 You need to learn to ride. Tank-slappers are caused by gripping the bars too tightly.
God bless everyone. stay strong and save and may the ones that have lost their lives seek justice and rest in peace. may the lord be with us and protect us every millisecond of the day and night. ❤🙏
Rebound too fast/too slow is actually the number one cause of head shake.
I would feel more informed if he didn't take his hands off the handlebars during his instruction.....
3:03 that "62" 💀
Worn, underiflated front tires are the death wobbles playground.
This is the first time I came across you and your channel. I am glad I saw this!!. Thank you😊😊
You are so welcome!
Never drove a crotch rocket, but i found it best to carve out of them on a dirt bike. Almost killed myself enough on them to risk putting my dumb arse on a crotch rocket.
can you pop a willie if you have the wobbles to get out of it? thanks, I want a bike and I learned a lot from this
Bad idea trust me. If you want a bike but are inexperienced the best advice I could give is go with something 500cc or smaller for at least 6 months. It is possible that you could wheelie out of a wobble but to do that you'll need to accelerate which not only means you could crash at a faster speed but also could slip you off straight away if any of that wobble had transferred to your rear wheel. The other issue is that your weight shifts and if you can't fix it whilst in the wheelie eventually you're gonna have to land on a wobbly wheel at a now higher speed which is just an instant wipe out. But as he said don't touch that front brake, I did once in my first weeks of riding and slid down about 20 meters of road as a result. Luckily my bike only weighed 150kg and I was only doing 40mph since I took my own advice and started on a 250cc.
Side play in the swingarm! Any play in swing arm bearings brings wobble.
My friends, 72 H2 Kawasaki has nylon swing arm bearings. His were loose and I watched him get tossed off at 80 miles an hour in a t shirt.
The bike slid all the way down Bergdoll hill and burnt and melted. His back look like a pizza without cheese. … a tomato pie, if you will.
He immediately went out and bought another one the same year and the same color.
7:20 like you said bro bro '' THAT ICE CREAM CONE GRIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! XD
Exactly!! 🍦✅
Thank you for this video, I needed this information
You’re a blessing thank you.
Top advice. Thank you.
20 years riding and never had one yet (knock on wood) I do a pre trip inspection every ride
Tire pressure is always annoying because everyone always says don't fill them to what the standards says then some say use way below. Some say 32 front 36 back.
I personally use 33 front and 38 back. But I honestly don't know what exactly to use.
Anxiety peaked every cut scene to a wobble. 😅
What's up with the pause at 57 seconds with the two guys standing between the cars?
Thanks for these tips bro
You bet💯
I feel like during wobble, hard accelerating into a wheelie to get your front tire off the ground would remove the wobble entirely? Am I wrong?
Go ahead and do it
I broke my collar bone 4 years ago due to bike wobble, it was the scariest experience I had on motercycle. The road was smooth and I don't know what happend maybe it happend because I was over speeding
My guy. It's a steering damper. Not a steering dampener. We ain't making your steering moist. Rear braking is excellent to help control a tank slapper. Dragging the rear brake will cause the rear of the bike to squat slightly, which has the effect of increasing the rake angle of the steering. More rake angle makes the bike more stable, but reduces high speed agility, which is why sportsbikes have very little rake angle. It makes them steer very quickly at high speeds, but also introduces instability that can manifest as "speed wobbles".