Hi guys sorry just missed the stream and haven't seen it yet. I have just been researching this as I have been going through my own stash of games to sell lately. First I separate the good from the bad, the amount of scratches isn't so much the problem it is the depth and placement, 1 deep scratch can cause a problem whereas 100s of tiny fine ones wont. Also if you have a "hole" as in the paint is gone from the top label and you can see any light at all straight through it, it is completely toast, the centre ring is also the worst place to get a scratch. The main problem is the only true way to test if it might work is to play through it or watch it (if film) which isn't feasible, even that has problems because if you don't hit certain areas in the game on your play through the scratched area might not even need to be loaded but someone elses play through may be affected. This is why just popping it in and seeing if it loads isn't great because the game could still only crash when trying to load the final cut scene or last boss. There is software that can scan your disc for problems but then each software is different, gives different results and the pc drives are different to the consoles so they aren't accurate plus you need an iso image of the game to compare it to. What I do is get all the pc, xbox one ps4 and xbox compatible games and install them on the console, if they install fully then the disc works because everything needs to be read of the disc- HOWEVER a scratched disc that installs and plays may not work if it is not installed and you are playing it straight from the disc because the install process can do more error checks and it is slower than reading it straight from the disc as you play it. I have installed badly ring lasered scratched discs and to my surprise they worked perfectly fine on the xbox one, I was expecting a read error. So in my listing for these I will mention there is a bad scratch on it but it has been installed on the xbox and plays fine advising them to do the same. Next comes the harder ones to test the likes of PS2 ps1 wii etc. I use meguiars plastx polish which is excellent for cleaning clear plastic and discs, it can take out fine scratches and does a great job at cleaning the discs and giving them a great mirror finish. If you have a disc with a tonne of fine scratches this can do a great job at removing the majority of them and taking it up to maybe a good condition from acceptable, it gives you a great idea of the true finish and how bad the remaining scratches really are. It is extremely important though that you use the correct material to polish the disc otherwise you will just put more scratches into it. I only recommend using a foam applicator pad that you get from the car shops, it is perfectly smooth and wont add scratches, a microfiber towel will add bad scratches and a normal terry towel or face cloth is even worse so avoid them. Also make sure the disc is perfectly cleaned first any debris can create scratches. Any borderline ones I list as acceptable lots of scratches but loads up, if they get it and say it doesn't work return it and refund, rarely get a problem. Once thats done and all thats left are the really dodgy looking deep ones that you can catch on your finger nail I guess it depends on the value of the game and how much time you want to put in, you can polish the scratch out using very fine sandpaper 3000 grit and work up to 5000, 7000 then finish with the plastx polish but the scratch might be too deep anyway and still not work even if you get it "out", or if it at least loads up you can say that in the listing there's a bad scratch, untested sold as seen but loads and sell it cheaper, no returns, if its collectable they might get it professionally resurfaced so they are happy they get a deal and your happy its sold. I also use my car polisher as a last resort. I know some people have used a dremel in a similar way to get great results on dvds, but I dont think the dedicated disc machines are worth it (can completely ruin a disc, expensive, feels like over selling the condition of the game) and ultimately I try to only buy games with minimal scratches that im pretty sure will work. I once took a fighting game to cex that had 1 fairly deep looking scratch and the game kept crashing after 2 blasts on the machine the scratch was a lot better looking but still didn't play after a third it seemed ok but i was doubtful it would hold up after playing felt like it wanted to crash, i still sold it and didn't hear anything from the guy so who knows. Can also bundle up the really bad ones as spares repairs job lot. I think the important thing is being honest maybe underselling as possible about the condition i.e. if its had a bad scratch removed or your not sure it will work that way you "should" avoid negative feedback.
I think from this video I will be buying a Eco Pro 2, I used to have a JFJ Easy Pro when I started out my business (only being doing it a year). And now that broke I feel its the perfect time to upgrade as I have heavily gone into media and I have a stacked pile of media to clean for when I get a new disc cleaner (as I did plan to get another JFJ, but the prices on eBay were too crazy so was going to wait). And most likely that stack of media will offset a large chunk of the cost of the Eco Pro. I greatly appreciate the discount code included, I look forward to receiving it
Totally recommend Eco Pro 2 if you have bunch of discs. At first I also had JFJ Easy Pro but the quality of the repairs and the annoying manual labor of changing pads and adding different compounds was just too much for me when I had hundreds of discs waiting to be resurfaced. I think I made my investment back on the first month already, bought a factory refurbished unit from their website.
@@TheEyeTrax1 Could I get an update on this? I was wondering about refurbished Eco Pro 2's, seems very risky but they claim all the parts are replaced. Had any problems?
@@p0ck3tp3ar The outside of the machine was pretty beat up and had few cracks on the plastic parts (probably dropped from previous owner/s). Power supply died after few months of use so they gave me a demo unit which was technically unused. Demo unit is much more quieter so I highly doubt they replace all the parts on the refurbished machines. More likely inspect, clean and replace broken parts that are needed.
Just because the top layer has a scratch, it may still work, on Ps2 games and above, most game data are sandwiched in the center. If the “paint” is rubbed off or slightly scratched, it may still work, I’ve seen disc with chucks of the label missing and it parlayed fine.. ps1 games or “cd” based games are different
In regards to the sanding disc for the JFJ. You just need to buy regular wet and dry sandpaper and stick it to the base disc then cut around it and glue on. I do multi stages of 600 grit, then 1000 , then 1200 grit, followed by the white then blue polishing pad. This can get any deep scratch out
Hi there, I’ve got an eco pro 2 aswell and it’s great, when your machine starts I can here it’s slightly noisey/rumbles, if you unscrew the single screw and take the white disc off and clean it with warm water it stops the noise.
I produce discs that are virtually flawless. As a reseller, I want to sell a customer a disc that looks like new. The key is to employ other compounds and other (reusable) pads than what JFJ provides. The procedure is very similar to auto paint correction. Additionally, employ a high quality microfiber polishing towel. Regarding the Eco 2, that whole buying-a-key system was a deal breaker.
Bought a JFJ at the start of lockdown brand new on ebay £169.99 inc postage. Must get it out the box, my non media side Miners Lamps and parts! has been so busy April and May I haven't had chance !
The JFJ is an amazing machine. You have to know how to use it. I've probably repaired over 1000 discs. Coarse sand for 20 seconds and rubbing compound for 1 minute gets the job done in the least amount of time. No polish, no fine sanding.
But it leaves swirls on the dvd as i've seen online, or it will restore the disc in ''like new'' condition? I don't want to make them playable again, they already are, i want them to look like new
@@matteog.6909 you can clean swirls to a degree with a microfibre cloth. If you are a perfectionist then probably no machine will clean your disc to your standard. Only way is to try and see for yourself
@@davidfernandes8094 Ok, because i have some games that a guy have done for me in the past that are perfect, and some others that aren’t. So i assume that it depends of how you use it or which machine you use. So, it’s impossibile to reach this results with jfjpro? I mean like when you unbox a game brand new. And the exact method to reach that with jfj?
@@matteog.6909 someone said this in another vid. for expensive or rare games I recommend to cut out a small disc with a hole out of foam or thin cloth that just fits behind the plastic nut, this stops the machine making that ring mark on the disc center, I use foam the kind they sell in rolls for packing approx 2mm thick, noticed the same mark on a lot of CEX discs!
I've heard that toothpaste is good at repairing scratched discs. I don't know how it works, but I'm reluctant to try it out myself in case it makes matters worse.
i remember years ago i got a disk repair machine which was just a flat machine with two pads that you put a few drops of fluied on and shut the top and it gently shall i say give it a slight cutting of the disk as in t cut . then a good polish
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Link to my video showing how to use a JFJ easy pro: - ruclips.net/video/BJKHozN1Irw/видео.html
Hi guys sorry just missed the stream and haven't seen it yet. I have just been researching this as I have been going through my own stash of games to sell lately. First I separate the good from the bad, the amount of scratches isn't so much the problem it is the depth and placement, 1 deep scratch can cause a problem whereas 100s of tiny fine ones wont. Also if you have a "hole" as in the paint is gone from the top label and you can see any light at all straight through it, it is completely toast, the centre ring is also the worst place to get a scratch. The main problem is the only true way to test if it might work is to play through it or watch it (if film) which isn't feasible, even that has problems because if you don't hit certain areas in the game on your play through the scratched area might not even need to be loaded but someone elses play through may be affected. This is why just popping it in and seeing if it loads isn't great because the game could still only crash when trying to load the final cut scene or last boss. There is software that can scan your disc for problems but then each software is different, gives different results and the pc drives are different to the consoles so they aren't accurate plus you need an iso image of the game to compare it to.
What I do is get all the pc, xbox one ps4 and xbox compatible games and install them on the console, if they install fully then the disc works because everything needs to be read of the disc- HOWEVER a scratched disc that installs and plays may not work if it is not installed and you are playing it straight from the disc because the install process can do more error checks and it is slower than reading it straight from the disc as you play it. I have installed badly ring lasered scratched discs and to my surprise they worked perfectly fine on the xbox one, I was expecting a read error. So in my listing for these I will mention there is a bad scratch on it but it has been installed on the xbox and plays fine advising them to do the same.
Next comes the harder ones to test the likes of PS2 ps1 wii etc. I use meguiars plastx polish which is excellent for cleaning clear plastic and discs, it can take out fine scratches and does a great job at cleaning the discs and giving them a great mirror finish. If you have a disc with a tonne of fine scratches this can do a great job at removing the majority of them and taking it up to maybe a good condition from acceptable, it gives you a great idea of the true finish and how bad the remaining scratches really are. It is extremely important though that you use the correct material to polish the disc otherwise you will just put more scratches into it. I only recommend using a foam applicator pad that you get from the car shops, it is perfectly smooth and wont add scratches, a microfiber towel will add bad scratches and a normal terry towel or face cloth is even worse so avoid them. Also make sure the disc is perfectly cleaned first any debris can create scratches. Any borderline ones I list as acceptable lots of scratches but loads up, if they get it and say it doesn't work return it and refund, rarely get a problem.
Once thats done and all thats left are the really dodgy looking deep ones that you can catch on your finger nail I guess it depends on the value of the game and how much time you want to put in, you can polish the scratch out using very fine sandpaper 3000 grit and work up to 5000, 7000 then finish with the plastx polish but the scratch might be too deep anyway and still not work even if you get it "out", or if it at least loads up you can say that in the listing there's a bad scratch, untested sold as seen but loads and sell it cheaper, no returns, if its collectable they might get it professionally resurfaced so they are happy they get a deal and your happy its sold. I also use my car polisher as a last resort. I know some people have used a dremel in a similar way to get great results on dvds, but I dont think the dedicated disc machines are worth it (can completely ruin a disc, expensive, feels like over selling the condition of the game) and ultimately I try to only buy games with minimal scratches that im pretty sure will work. I once took a fighting game to cex that had 1 fairly deep looking scratch and the game kept crashing after 2 blasts on the machine the scratch was a lot better looking but still didn't play after a third it seemed ok but i was doubtful it would hold up after playing felt like it wanted to crash, i still sold it and didn't hear anything from the guy so who knows. Can also bundle up the really bad ones as spares repairs job lot. I think the important thing is being honest maybe underselling as possible about the condition i.e. if its had a bad scratch removed or your not sure it will work that way you "should" avoid negative feedback.
I think from this video I will be buying a Eco Pro 2, I used to have a JFJ Easy Pro when I started out my business (only being doing it a year). And now that broke I feel its the perfect time to upgrade as I have heavily gone into media and I have a stacked pile of media to clean for when I get a new disc cleaner (as I did plan to get another JFJ, but the prices on eBay were too crazy so was going to wait). And most likely that stack of media will offset a large chunk of the cost of the Eco Pro.
I greatly appreciate the discount code included, I look forward to receiving it
Totally recommend Eco Pro 2 if you have bunch of discs. At first I also had JFJ Easy Pro but the quality of the repairs and the annoying manual labor of changing pads and adding different compounds was just too much for me when I had hundreds of discs waiting to be resurfaced. I think I made my investment back on the first month already, bought a factory refurbished unit from their website.
@@TheEyeTrax1 Could I get an update on this? I was wondering about refurbished Eco Pro 2's, seems very risky but they claim all the parts are replaced. Had any problems?
@@p0ck3tp3ar The outside of the machine was pretty beat up and had few cracks on the plastic parts (probably dropped from previous owner/s). Power supply died after few months of use so they gave me a demo unit which was technically unused. Demo unit is much more quieter so I highly doubt they replace all the parts on the refurbished machines. More likely inspect, clean and replace broken parts that are needed.
@@TheEyeTrax1 Thank you very much. I guess you ended up with a good deal in the end, despite the issues, I'd be happy with that personally.
Just because the top layer has a scratch, it may still work, on Ps2 games and above, most game data are sandwiched in the center. If the “paint” is rubbed off or slightly scratched, it may still work, I’ve seen disc with chucks of the label missing and it parlayed fine.. ps1 games or “cd” based games are different
In regards to the sanding disc for the JFJ. You just need to buy regular wet and dry sandpaper and stick it to the base disc then cut around it and glue on. I do multi stages of 600 grit, then 1000 , then 1200 grit, followed by the white then blue polishing pad. This can get any deep scratch out
Hi there, I’ve got an eco pro 2 aswell and it’s great, when your machine starts I can here it’s slightly noisey/rumbles, if you unscrew the single screw and take the white disc off and clean it with warm water it stops the noise.
I produce discs that are virtually flawless. As a reseller, I want to sell a customer a disc that looks like new. The key is to employ other compounds and other (reusable) pads than what JFJ provides. The procedure is very similar to auto paint correction. Additionally, employ a high quality microfiber polishing towel. Regarding the Eco 2, that whole buying-a-key system was a deal breaker.
Bought a JFJ at the start of lockdown brand new on ebay £169.99 inc postage. Must get it out the box, my non media side Miners Lamps and parts! has been so busy April and May I haven't had chance !
My experience with JFJ is the disk will look mint. Play for one game mode, if you switch games in game it freezes.
Hello, I would like to ask how many watts is the power of the machine today, I know the current is 110V power supply JFJ easy Pro
Does the eco pro 2 leave the same swirl marks as the jfj?
No
The JFJ is an amazing machine. You have to know how to use it. I've probably repaired over 1000 discs. Coarse sand for 20 seconds and rubbing compound for 1 minute gets the job done in the least amount of time. No polish, no fine sanding.
But it leaves swirls on the dvd as i've seen online, or it will restore the disc in ''like new'' condition? I don't want to make them playable again, they already are, i want them to look like new
@@matteog.6909 you can clean swirls to a degree with a microfibre cloth. If you are a perfectionist then probably no machine will clean your disc to your standard. Only way is to try and see for yourself
@@davidfernandes8094 Ok, because i have some games that a guy have done for me in the past that are perfect, and some others that aren’t. So i assume that it depends of how you use it or which machine you use. So, it’s impossibile to reach this results with jfjpro? I mean like when you unbox a game brand new. And the exact method to reach that with jfj?
@@matteog.6909 someone said this in another vid. for expensive or rare games I recommend to cut out a small disc with a hole out of foam or thin cloth that just fits behind the plastic nut, this stops the machine making that ring mark on the disc center, I use foam the kind they sell in rolls for packing approx 2mm thick, noticed the same mark on a lot of CEX discs!
Would you recommend a disc cleaner to a game collector?
Good question 👍
@@MS-ic8lj The best is VMI Venmill 3500 or 3550
Very good question. That's what I am debating.
I've heard that toothpaste is good at repairing scratched discs. I don't know how it works, but I'm reluctant to try it out myself in case it makes matters worse.
no i wouldn't use it plastx clear polish is what I really recommend
@@mcbroombroom08 how do you apply the Polish? Little drop on the disc then use a buffer attached to a drill?
@@Bossko1986 I just put a tiny bit on the disc and use a foam pad by hand
i remember years ago i got a disk repair machine which was just a flat machine with two pads that you put a few drops of fluied on and shut the top and it gently shall i say give it a slight cutting of the disk as in t cut . then a good polish
Gamecube games are sandwiched between the layers