Team Associated RB10 Unboxing and Review - Is it Ready to Race?
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- We acquired some RB10s to try out on our backyard RC track. The RB10 is a radio controlled, 1/10 scale, 2-wheel drive buggy in a ready-to-run (RTR) format from Team Associated. It is the first RTR buggy from AE since the RC10 B4. Unlike its two predecessors, the RC10 B5M and RC10 B6 that were mid-motor buggies, the RB10 is a rear motor configuration, which is ideal for our track which is dirt and usually low to medium grip.
We ran them "out-of-the-box" first and were somewhat disappointed in the performance, so some updates were in order to get it competitive with the other buggies currently running, namely the RC10 B5M and RC10 B6. Those updates included upgrading the tires, correcting the ride height in the rear to set "bones level" and front ride height to "arms level." Also the gearing was changed from the stock 18-tooth pinion to a 23-tooth for better top-end speed and changed from 30wt shock oil in the front to 35wt.
Our backyard R/C track is sized for 1/10 scale RC buggies and trucks such as Associated SC10, Traxxas Slash, Losi Ten SCTE, RC10GT, RC10B, and RC10T. We also have Kyosho nitro-powered 1/8 scale buggies but they are a bit large and fast for this track.
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Tools, Parts, and Materials Featured in this Video
shock oil (35wt)
amzn.to/3RXa3HA
shock oil (30wt)
amzn.to/3PLgFGn
front wheels (white)
amzn.to/3F4P0eO
rear wheels (white)
amzn.to/3RNLGMA
rear tires (pro-line blockades)
amzn.to/3S7SPaX
front tires (pro-line 4-rib)
amzn.to/45gRxgw
23-tooth pinion gear
amzn.to/45mjFPi
selectable leather punch
amzn.to/3Q3NBLH
RB10 RTR Buggy w battery & charger (blue)
amzn.to/3Q8ROhm
RB10 RTR Buggy w battery & charger (red)
amzn.to/48GHYKP
RB10 RTR (no battery or charger) (red)
amzn.to/48XpWUT
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Music: Demilitarized Zone by Ethan Meixsell. Barilicious by Dan Lebowitz
Hey, really want to thank you for this video. I was sold on this buggy before doing research. Before I bought it I pulled up, figured I’d do some looking around and get some opinions. Saw your video and figured “ok, so if he’s correct about the pre upgrade comments it doesn’t look too hard to do what he suggested and get to his happy state.” First got the buggy and ran it around the house, didn’t seem too bad but limited space. Went ahead and got the pinion gear, just changed it out and holy shit! Ran it around the back yard for a quick test, shaggy lawn that needs to be mowed, it ripped pretty impressively through it. Got some new tires, added the shock spacers, will be taking it out to our track my next day off. So anyway, long winded way to a short comment: thank you very much, love this car even more than before I bought it. 👍👍
Great video, thank you. It was great to see the step by step changes you made with the improvements! Very valuable.
Try sliding the battery forward some, helped mine with steering alot. All the weight is already towards the rear so it helps put something on the front
great video thanks. Would be cool to see any other additional mods.
Nice entro out of the box. The RB10 is all dialed in. Great Job!
great video! the intro out of the box was brilliant ...I will have to check out some of your other videos.
Great video!
Hearing your initial impression was great, but hearing the easy changes you made to fix the issues was even better. The comparison between the rb10 and the pr2 sc10 is something i have had a hard time finding so seeing it here was awesome.
After rewatching this video, I was wondering how blocking the hole on the inside of the tire and punching a new hole on the outside was beneficial?
Wouldn't the same amount of dirt get in the tire through the new hole?
@BlueCollarRC the wheel is a centrifuge. Punching a hole in the tire helps fling dirt out of the tire.
Nice little video on the buggy, thanks, from the UK.
No problem 👍
0:06 hahaha I didn’t see this coming
Great review and awesome track!!!
How did the pace compare with the B2 in the end? My local club runs a rear motor class, toying berween an RB10 and Kyosho Dirt Master at present
Hi guys i put a72 tooth spur and 26 pinion and it flies on the track, great videos
On 2s? It’s super fast stock on 3s
Yeh 2s haven't tried it on 3s yet it might stop the planet turning if I try that
@@xJae14xdoes 26 fit with standard spur
Thanks a lot for the video.
I just bought an RB10 rtr, and I'm building my first track. I started with some cheap RC bashers, but I like the hobby and I'm "going for it."
What did you mean by "slow AF" ?
Great video man, I just got my RB10 and I'm running on the same type of track (loose loamy dirt), the few changes you've mentioned made a big difference.
The only thing I haven't done is vented the tires, is there a performance benefit over having the wheels already vented, or is it solely as you mentioned about trying to keep out the dirt.
No difference in performance, it just keeps the dirt from getting in and loading up in the tire.
@johnniehobby awesome thanks for that...I've been trying to get the hang of this outdoor loose stuff, can't seem to get my oversteering under control though, messing around with adding weight to the rear
Would a 55 oil work with the rear shock? I am afraid it would destroy the shock if I let the car jump too high
55wt is pretty heavy if you are talking about a buggy. It won't destroy the shock, but will probably negatively affect the handling, especially in the turns.
@johnniehobby what servo and arm are you considering switch to? Keeping or ditching the servo saver? Great video and very helpful. Coming out of bashers and looking to start racing. I don’t quite know how to calculate the 17.5/13.5. How did the changes you made impact that or did it not?
I'm not sure what servo I'll put in the buggy. It seems every time I buy one it's different than the last. I look for something 9kg or more and .1 sec or less transit time, and all-metal drive train, but I don't spend too much. Max $50. I'll keep the servo saver. I've not found that removing it helps anything, at least not with our track conditions. The 3300kv motor that comes included with the RB10 is equivalent to a 13.5 turn motor, and the gearing change didn't prompt any other changes to the driveline. It's not over-geared so motor temps aren't a problem, and probably has more room to gear up if needed.
@@johnniehobby thank you!
Hey mate, love your channel.
I have a question that I was wondering you could answer for me. Is there any way that I can have over 4 players racing at the same time on a Carrera Digital 1:24 4 lane track?
I understand that Carrera says a maximum of 4 racers on 1:24
What would happen if i had two control units in the same track?
What if i used a different transformer?
Multiple control units won't work. Your best bet is an aftermarket power supply. The CU will handle a maximum of 8 amps @18 volts so a power supply with variable voltage and current is essential. The biggest current draw is at the beginning of a race where everybody starts at the same time and that could kick out the over-current protection. If that happens even with an aftermarket PSU then a rolling start would be the remedy. This is based on my research and don't have any firsthand experience with this so proceed with caution.
@@johnniehobby Awesome thanks for the advice, i will tread carefully. So instead of plugging the carrera control unit into a wall socket/electrical outlet, i simply plug it into an aftermarket power supply?
How many races will those tires last?
The prolines
@@DPoner That's difficult to answer as we don't keep very good logs of how many laps we run after making changes to our vehicles. However, I'm going to guess several hundred laps, at least on our track which is mostly loose dirt.
What type of RC vehicle would you recommend for a first time 10 year old racer?
For fun
:)
A good entry-level brand is Traxxas. Tough as nails, lots of hobby shops carry them, parts are plentiful and affordable, and easy to work on. There are many types available but for racing you'd want a short course truck (Slash) or Buggy (Bandit). For a 10-year old, I would recommend getting the versions with NiMH batteries over the LiPo option. NiMH batteries are quite safe. If not handled properly, LiPos can pose a fire hazard.
@@johnniehobby Thanks
Take care and continue having fun
:)
Pick whatever single-chassis spec class your local track runs. Slash and Bandit are common off-road spec classes, TT-02 is more or less the go-to for onroad. And if your closest track tries to advertise 17.5 Stock as their entry level class then go elsewhere and don't look back, because that class is a huge money pit.
It’s just a modernized b4 🤪
Correct! The nicest thing about the update is the metric hardware. No longer need to go back and forth between imperial and metric tools.
@@johnniehobby the control arms & other suspension components look identical to the B4
Almost all of the parts on the RB10 are compatible with the B5. It’s basically a simplified B5 with a B4-style chassis and B6 ball cups.
Unboxing mit verrosteten Schrauben ist lächerlich!