The No.1 thing to know about aerodynamics is that finding agreement is next to impossible. It is such a complex system with so many simultaneous effects taking place. On the one hand the less the BB touches the barrel walls the better, but on the other hand the more of an air seal there is the better. The less the bucking touches the BB, the less unstable the BB is. But the more spin on the BB the more stable its flight.
Great information. Keep up the videos like this. Wanting to get into teching guns and this is just the kind of content I was looking for. You deserve more subs!
This reasoning that the bore of the barrel doesn't matter because both a tightbore and widebore barrel would capture the BB is not necessarily incorrect, but is a flawed train of thought. As you said in the portion of your video talking about bore quality vs size, any single deviation in the walls of your barrel will lead to your BB's trajectory being affected by those deviations. The same is the case for a perfectly smooth tightbore barrel if your BBs aren't all 100% perfect spheres, which is a huge advantage of widebore vs tightbore. If your BB's own defects cause it to be adversely affected by the air travelling down the barrel then it'll likely cause the BB to ping off the inner walls of your barrel, which would affect your BB's spin caused by the hop up, leading to inconsistent groupings at the best case, and negatively affected range and accuracy at the worst. In a situation where you have a perfectly clean polished high-quality tight bore barrel alongside perfectly clean, polished, high-quality BBs then a tightbore barrel will win 100% of the time. But once you start adding variables as simple as your barrel being a bit dirty because you're 5 hours into a weekend of airsoft, then a widebore barrel is going to be much more consistent. Granted all this mainly applies to longer-range outdoor play.
This is the best airsoft channel I have ever seen. Vids are extremely informative ! Very good explanations ! Common sense logic ! Keep up the great work you are doing ! I would very much like to see a short list of recommended barrels in your opinion. What material do you think is best?
i would love a continuation of different barrel crowning's and what you think is ideal. You could include different styles of crowning like rifled crowning or non uniform crowning brands like Falcon, TN, ML Crazy jet, Poseidon, and even TK just for shits. Love the content. i would love more! Do you have a discord server?
Hey man, thanks for the great comments. First, no I have no discord mainly because of lack of time to maintain that. I do actually have a crowning vid on my to do list, and will get to it 😄 and hoping I will have more time when the winter comes, and i dont have to play every weekend 😄 And also you are correct about cleaning with dish soap, it is the only Way 👍
Thanks for making this video. Between Maple Leaf, Nine Ball and Unicorn brands, which would you say produces the best quality barrels as you say that determines performance?
310mm maple leaf crazyjet 6.04 barrel in Ares AS02 sniper =480FPS... 310mm maple leaf 6.01 extra tightbore barrel in Ares AS02 sniper = 500FPS...i have both.. The 6.01 is faster but the 6.04 is more accurate & consistent (both using 75°pink silicone maple autobot bucking & AA bluu hop chamber.... Bore size DOES have an effect...(this is with M150 spring)
@@elonearth2600 I have the maple leaf 6,04mm crazy jet barrel too. The crazy jet is meant to be of higher quality than the normal 6,01 maple leaf, and having that crowned "jet stream air" at the end of the barrel meant to stabilize the bb. So i'm not totally convinced that 6,04 is necessarily better than 6,01 barrel based on that fact alone
@@Windrunner87but haven't you just made my point with what you've just said? Regardless of what is said about the quality or stabilisation the 6.04 shoots slower than the 6.01...that alone makes it a difference....(but like I alluded to previously I prefer the more accurate 6.04)👍
Thanks very much indeed mister ! Very informative presentation and clarifies a lot! So from now on I wont have headaches that the barrel is just 6.03 :) Aron
Fun fact about barrels material is that when I rub barrel outer surface by BB's(BLS,BLS Bio,G&G) is visible steel/brass mark on BB. I know that stainless steel and brass are not the hardness material, however scratching by PLA BBs looks ridiculous. Btw when I try this with nickel-plated scisores/tools there isn't any marks on bb. The same with alu and brass nozzels. Im courious how it can affect on accuracy (some bb after shot had this marks on surface).
But when scraping metal with plastic, what you might are seeing is the scraping off of material (plastic) and that is seen on the surface. And if you move you barrel around when shooting the bb will most likely bounch around in the barrel
I saw a graph on powair6 (on pdi 6.03 229mm page) saying 6.08 barrel had some of the best stability/range out of other barrels, what's your take on this?
I watched a video and the guys are comparing 3 barrels. The best grouping they got with 6,01. You have a great theory, but it would be great to show it shooting with a crappy and a good barrel.
while i agree with your conclusion, i'll have to criticise your statement at the beginning, about the difference between HPA and AEG, and the solution for AEGs being "just put a different spring". HPAs biggest pro is the adjustable air volume. just changing a spring in an AEG won't accomodate the required larger air volume of a barrell with a larger inner diameter. you'll need a different cylinder. spring is to adjust power, but air volume should ideally always be in the neighborhood of 1.8:1 to 2.2:1 cylinder/barrell to to lessen the effect of either having the bb "sucked back" into the bore at the muzzle, or having lots of turbulences behind the bb, both of which will have effects on it's accuracy. none of this is a problem with HPA, which is why it's such a beginnerfriendly system (if you have the wallet for it)
@Reflex Airsoft Paintballer here, and I can agree on this, but would like to contribute on what I've learned aswell. In paintball we dont have round paint, there is always a seam and they also very in size unlike bbs. What I have come to understand about throwing a spherical object through a round tube, is how important the air moving the object is. We can tune our air to achieve a wide range of effects on the way the ball glides. For example, say we need to shoot paint at 290fps. We can achieve this in two ways. One being with a high volume of air, with a long dwell time at a low psi and the other a low volume of air with a short dwell time at a high psi. The lower psi shit always seems to be the better of the two. The lower psi gives less turbulence on the ball and the high dwell time gives a nice air tunnel effect, much like the crazy jet barrel. And on the other end, the high psi gives more instability and the low dwell time gives the ball a lobb effect. To put it into perspective, a extra long wide bore barrel, will give a longer straighter shot over a extra long ultra tight bore barrel. The problem at hand is reaching velocity, one can crank up the psi on a HPA rig ,but that will also decrease the benefits of the soft air, or add a longer barrel for more gas expansion. A middle ground is needed, if you can't mechanically or electronically control the dwell or air volume. On the mechanical end, softer hammer and valve springs will increase dwell and a bigger nozzle will increase volume. You can fine tune dwell and timing on a polarstar as well, hence the benefit of buying a hpa engine like that. My thoughts, could go longer but feel free to DM.
@@reflexairsoft4648 Yes, no backspin. We try to replicate backspin by the use of more air flow. Paint does not fly as far, because they come in at +-3.5gs. The way we achieve a longer shot would be to add a longer dwell and a longer barrel. The more of a longer soft air tunnel at the end of the barrel, the more straight of a shot we get over a lobb. The porting on the barrel does also lessen turbulence as well, hence why we never stopped making barrels with them. Good paint should be brittle and to add a nubb to add backspin would cause a bunch of barrel pops, and that no fun. As for bore tightness, you want to size paint correctly. We are able to switch bore size at will. A improper paint to bore match will cause spikes and lows over the chrono. The tighter we are over the chrono, the less spread. I always buy ported barrels for my airsoft guns, its just helps.
I do think the Japanese did it best. The use of duster/ topgas and super soft bucking help so much. Yes the fps is low but the shots themself are much more stable. I have recreated this in one of my hpa builds, but with a solid 350fps. At 80psi, I can reach indoor field velocity with the use of my long 5.96mm tight bore barrel. Its tight enough for the bb to still fall through. Also this does explain why bolt-action bb guns out range aegs. More air volume. Just my findings.
Back in my woodsball days before the popularity of airsoft, we used to use rifled barrels with pretty good success. A tighter barrel with grooves etched into it so that as the air behind the paintball slightly warps the shape of the paintball, it engages with the grooves and spins
@@v3700I had a rifled barrel. it was ok but paint to barrel fitment mad a much bigger difference on shot consistency and accuracy. My favorite barrel was a 14in OTP smooth bore. loud as heck but the ball fitment was perfect for the paint I used (cheap striker paint) Snug enough that it wouldnt roll out but you could blow through it with a little force and it would pop out the end.
What's the physics of riffled barrels then? I had the chance to test one of these out, and it performed outstanding compared to my stock cyma barrel. I should clarify, both hop-up set ups were running Macron 50 Degree rubbers.
The physics is still applied, when the riffled barrels where made many many years ago (where they called TK something?) the selection of barrels was very small, and these barrels was made with real riffeling tools, so the bore was very straight. And the riffling applied is of consistant spacing and dept(so in effect it just makes a wider bore, also the bucking applied backspin force is greater than what the air is applieing, so therefor it has no real effect on bb travel, what it does do is add a huge cost to manufacturing, thus its not seen in todays marked for barrels. An Old saying: If it works, someone will Make it.
@@reflexairsoft4648 Really? I would have assumed the rifling would create a vortex-like effect in the barrel, stabilizing the BB quicker. I would never personally buy one of those barrels anyway, the player I borrowed it from paid 1200 DKK for the thing. A bit too much concidering it was only a 155mm. What barrels would you recommend then?
Yeah that was the selling point back then i believe. But the power of the backspin is far greater than the turbulent air behind the bb and the blowby. So it would have so little effect, that it would not really show. The bernoulli principle will still have an effect, as Long as the largest part is not the grooves of the riffling, if you would Make a barrel where the “groove” is super wide, the it might effect it, but i believe it would be a negative effect, as it might cause the bb to spirale. Also if creating a vortex from the riffling, it would not go faster but slower(the air) bc the increase of travel due to the riffling increasing the distance the air needs to travel I would say this: Dont Care/clean gun often - Coated alu barrel (madbull) Care/clean barrel sometime - madbull/prommy/zci steel barrel Care/ clean every time you played - EDgI/Prometheus bc/ pdi
@@reflexairsoft4648 Madbull I've had no luck with. Both the black python Aluminium barrel, which I cannot stress enough how dogshit terrible that piece of crap is, and the stainless steal model. No luck with any of those. I might give the prommy barrels a try, I've heard mixed reviews on them, but the local players who actually use them, seem contempt.
Well depends, the madbull in my books, is only accepting the red shark bucking, and the g&g green. So pretty much any other will Make it inconsistent. Goes for the steel as well. The only reason i recommend the alu coated, is for new guys, that dont clean their guns, so a brass barrel would look and shoot very bad after only 4-5 humid games. Most players in Denmark would use the prommy steel, and that has been my favorite for many years aswell (pdi aswell) but im all in on the new prommy bc barrel. So if you want to buy a 500mm pdi 😉
I was always curious about the orga wide bores but could find zero information from anyone on them. Just people saying they were bad but no reason behind the statement. And the odd person saying it was the best thing they had ever done for range. How much range did you lose?
@@jamescameron6819 had the orga barrel in rifle few times different hop rubbers never found it great i was using it in tippmann m4 hpa 350 fps on a .20g but shooting .32g going to 55m dropping out of sky putting more hop on to get a bit more range caused it to have wide spread, but with 6.03 350 fps on .20g shooting .32g gained 10-15 m i played few game days with the Orga found myself to be just average amount of kills but with Prometheus 6.03 i had lot of extended range kills more shots on target flatter more accurate BB flight path i think depends on amount of air and pressures might work for some builds so many variables in guns, close up shooting fine but for long range did not work for me.
@@jamescameron6819 i think what happens with 6.23 if bb becomes unstable passing down barrel if bounces in the bore disturbing hop effect thats why my bb's just stopped, if you can pass lot of air to float down barrel and a stable weapon platform so does not hit the barrel multiple times would work probably.
Very informative video, I very much like it. One way to finally kill off the bb riding the top theory would be to have a clear barrel and just a slow mo camera but nobody going to invest that. But the video got me thinking. What happens with these effects if you apply a silencer into the equation? (considering you have a huge gap suddenly where the air is turbulent with the chambers/baffles) Really digging the video btw! Edit; subbed, this is quality content I like to see
Thank you so much man, as for the bb Down the roof of the barrel, i might just do a very simple test. Eg. carbon dust Down a barrel and then just shoot it, but maybe it wont stick dont know yet 😄 When the bb get to the suppressor the bb has accelerated to vmax, and the air now has to fill a large chamber with air, and the bb flies faster than that to have an effect on flight, as it becomes too weak in pressure 👍 And thanks for the great Q
the only reason i install 5.98 or 6.00 innerbarrels is to bump up fps on my custom gbb pistol builds.... but accuracy...i dont see too much of a difference really.... i mean,its round balls going down a pipe...😄
I think it would be reasonable to say a bigger bore is less affected by the same bore defect, so the bb would move lesser away from bore center and produce more accurate results. An airsofter mounted on a wall would enjoy that consistency, but not the speed baller.
You just made me stay away from 6.01 and just go with 6.03. Everyone always tell me 6.03 is the best and I always stick with 6.01 because I want to increase airflow. But now that you explain to account to the movement, I understand
Tightbore barrel will increase performance. My friend has a raven glock 18 that shoots around 270 to 290 fps he put a longer tight bore barrel in which I believe was 6.02 on the chrono it was doing 400fps to 430fps lol
I know ur german or something like that and btw great video. But dude the amount of times u smack ur lip is the amount of time i wanna smack someone. Lol but still great content
Thanks, the lip smacking is a result of my operation for cancer in my throat that has left me with very few seliva glands, so my mouth is very dry. Im danish btw 😄
![The easiest way to solder Airsoft LiPo [from tamiya to deans]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qkaZ1ctZf2Y/mqdefault.jpg)
The No.1 thing to know about aerodynamics is that finding agreement is next to impossible. It is such a complex system with so many simultaneous effects taking place. On the one hand the less the BB touches the barrel walls the better, but on the other hand the more of an air seal there is the better. The less the bucking touches the BB, the less unstable the BB is. But the more spin on the BB the more stable its flight.
Great information. Keep up the videos like this. Wanting to get into teching guns and this is just the kind of content I was looking for. You deserve more subs!
i love the channel man, very good information and interesting. i've been obsessed with them! Keep up the great work
Thank you man, it really means alot ❤️
Incredible content. Wish I’d found you sooner.
found about your channel today, its a gem
This reasoning that the bore of the barrel doesn't matter because both a tightbore and widebore barrel would capture the BB is not necessarily incorrect, but is a flawed train of thought.
As you said in the portion of your video talking about bore quality vs size, any single deviation in the walls of your barrel will lead to your BB's trajectory being affected by those deviations. The same is the case for a perfectly smooth tightbore barrel if your BBs aren't all 100% perfect spheres, which is a huge advantage of widebore vs tightbore.
If your BB's own defects cause it to be adversely affected by the air travelling down the barrel then it'll likely cause the BB to ping off the inner walls of your barrel, which would affect your BB's spin caused by the hop up, leading to inconsistent groupings at the best case, and negatively affected range and accuracy at the worst.
In a situation where you have a perfectly clean polished high-quality tight bore barrel alongside perfectly clean, polished, high-quality BBs then a tightbore barrel will win 100% of the time. But once you start adding variables as simple as your barrel being a bit dirty because you're 5 hours into a weekend of airsoft, then a widebore barrel is going to be much more consistent.
Granted all this mainly applies to longer-range outdoor play.
This ^^
Everything has become clear. Thank you bro I have been searching for this comment for years
This is the best airsoft channel I have ever seen. Vids are extremely informative ! Very good explanations ! Common sense logic ! Keep up the great work you are doing ! I would very much like to see a short list of recommended barrels in your opinion. What material do you think is best?
Mate, new subscriber!! Keep up the good work !!!
Aww thanks man that means more than you know 👍 i will
Hey I have seen you 3D print vids! Very nice, love the scorpion btw 👍
Thanks I just released a halo magnum build for the aap-01
thank you man, it's really helpfull, just wanna know, which metirial is the best for inner barrel? specificly for ghk ak.
i would love a continuation of different barrel crowning's and what you think is ideal. You could include different styles of crowning like rifled crowning or non uniform crowning brands like Falcon, TN, ML Crazy jet, Poseidon, and even TK just for shits. Love the content. i would love more! Do you have a discord server?
Hey man, thanks for the great comments. First, no I have no discord mainly because of lack of time to maintain that.
I do actually have a crowning vid on my to do list, and will get to it 😄 and hoping I will have more time when the winter comes, and i dont have to play every weekend 😄
And also you are correct about cleaning with dish soap, it is the only Way 👍
Thanks for making this video. Between Maple Leaf, Nine Ball and Unicorn brands, which would you say produces the best quality barrels as you say that determines performance?
Isn't that with a tighter bored barrel, the air behind the BB will help pushing the BB forward more instead of escaping around the BB?
Yea you will get a small fps bump from it a tight bore may also allow you to lengthen you barrel a little too because it increases efficiency
310mm maple leaf crazyjet 6.04 barrel in Ares AS02 sniper =480FPS... 310mm maple leaf 6.01 extra tightbore barrel in Ares AS02 sniper = 500FPS...i have both.. The 6.01 is faster but the 6.04 is more accurate & consistent (both using 75°pink silicone maple autobot bucking & AA bluu hop chamber.... Bore size DOES have an effect...(this is with M150 spring)
@@elonearth2600 I have the maple leaf 6,04mm crazy jet barrel too. The crazy jet is meant to be of higher quality than the normal 6,01 maple leaf, and having that crowned "jet stream air" at the end of the barrel meant to stabilize the bb. So i'm not totally convinced that 6,04 is necessarily better than 6,01 barrel based on that fact alone
@@Windrunner87but haven't you just made my point with what you've just said? Regardless of what is said about the quality or stabilisation the 6.04 shoots slower than the 6.01...that alone makes it a difference....(but like I alluded to previously I prefer the more accurate 6.04)👍
Thanks very much indeed mister ! Very informative presentation and clarifies a lot! So from now on I wont have headaches that the barrel is just 6.03 :) Aron
nice explanation. have u tried exactly 6mm inner diameter barrel ?
Got a m4 ng aeg 6.08 haw it comes standard gears ⚙️ and spring upgrade shoots spot on
Great information
What is the best size of inner barrel for AR /M4 and what difference makes the lenght
I use 6.23 in my tippmann accuracy and range is great , tight bore my accuracy was not as good but with my aeg tight bore was the way to go
Fun fact about barrels material is that when I rub barrel outer surface by BB's(BLS,BLS Bio,G&G) is visible steel/brass mark on BB. I know that stainless steel and brass are not the hardness material, however scratching by PLA BBs looks ridiculous. Btw when I try this with nickel-plated scisores/tools there isn't any marks on bb. The same with alu and brass nozzels. Im courious how it can affect on accuracy (some bb after shot had this marks on surface).
Im not sure what you mean? 😊 please see my bbs do not touch the barrel vid
But when scraping metal with plastic, what you might are seeing is the scraping off of material (plastic) and that is seen on the surface.
And if you move you barrel around when shooting the bb will most likely bounch around in the barrel
If you think your plastic BB is scratching a steel barrel you should probably stop trying to think so much.
I saw a graph on powair6 (on pdi 6.03 229mm page) saying 6.08 barrel had some of the best stability/range out of other barrels, what's your take on this?
Any news on that?
What is the best for AR and acuracy ?
If bore size doesn’t matter then why do you have to change the air pressure behind it?
I watched a video and the guys are comparing 3 barrels. The best grouping they got with 6,01.
You have a great theory, but it would be great to show it shooting with a crappy and a good barrel.
That's exactly why TM stock barrel's bore '6.08'. Tight bore barrel just mekes more FPS.
Then why is there rub marks from bbs on the top side of my barrel?
And what is your better brand of quality polish with a good price? I need one for an Arp9. Thank you!!
And what silicone Mapple leaf you put? Super macaron or Mr hop? Thanks man!
fedt med alle de nye uploads!
jeg er allerede fast seer af kanalen :D
Hvis du tager tech arbejde ind udefra kunne jeg bestemt godt være interesseret!
Hey tak 😊 jeg tager pt intet ind, da jeg har mere end nok i at lave mit holds guns 😄 men hvis jeg får tid så skal jeg nok skrive 👍
while i agree with your conclusion, i'll have to criticise your statement at the beginning, about the difference between HPA and AEG, and the solution for AEGs being "just put a different spring". HPAs biggest pro is the adjustable air volume. just changing a spring in an AEG won't accomodate the required larger air volume of a barrell with a larger inner diameter. you'll need a different cylinder. spring is to adjust power, but air volume should ideally always be in the neighborhood of 1.8:1 to 2.2:1 cylinder/barrell to to lessen the effect of either having the bb "sucked back" into the bore at the muzzle, or having lots of turbulences behind the bb, both of which will have effects on it's accuracy. none of this is a problem with HPA, which is why it's such a beginnerfriendly system (if you have the wallet for it)
Shoot a 6mm bb out of a 1 inch pipe, then tell me bore size doesn't matter
@Reflex Airsoft
Paintballer here, and I can agree on this, but would like to contribute on what I've learned aswell.
In paintball we dont have round paint, there is always a seam and they also very in size unlike bbs.
What I have come to understand about throwing a spherical object through a round tube, is how important the air moving the object is.
We can tune our air to achieve a wide range of effects on the way the ball glides.
For example, say we need to shoot paint at 290fps. We can achieve this in two ways. One being with a high volume of air, with a long dwell time at a low psi and the other a low volume of air with a short dwell time at a high psi. The lower psi shit always seems to be the better of the two. The lower psi gives less turbulence on the ball and the high dwell time gives a nice air tunnel effect, much like the crazy jet barrel. And on the other end, the high psi gives more instability and the low dwell time gives the ball a lobb effect.
To put it into perspective, a extra long wide bore barrel, will give a longer straighter shot over a extra long ultra tight bore barrel.
The problem at hand is reaching velocity, one can crank up the psi on a HPA rig ,but that will also decrease the benefits of the soft air, or add a longer barrel for more gas expansion. A middle ground is needed, if you can't mechanically or electronically control the dwell or air volume.
On the mechanical end, softer hammer and valve springs will increase dwell and a bigger nozzle will increase volume.
You can fine tune dwell and timing on a polarstar as well, hence the benefit of buying a hpa engine like that.
My thoughts, could go longer but feel free to DM.
Thanks for the long comment, am I correct in assuming that paintball markers do not have a mean of applying backspin to the Ball?
@@reflexairsoft4648 Yes, no backspin.
We try to replicate backspin by the use of more air flow. Paint does not fly as far, because they come in at +-3.5gs.
The way we achieve a longer shot would be to add a longer dwell and a longer barrel. The more of a longer soft air tunnel at the end of the barrel, the more straight of a shot we get over a lobb. The porting on the barrel does also lessen turbulence as well, hence why we never stopped making barrels with them.
Good paint should be brittle and to add a nubb to add backspin would cause a bunch of barrel pops, and that no fun.
As for bore tightness, you want to size paint correctly. We are able to switch bore size at will. A improper paint to bore match will cause spikes and lows over the chrono. The tighter we are over the chrono, the less spread.
I always buy ported barrels for my airsoft guns, its just helps.
I do think the Japanese did it best. The use of duster/ topgas and super soft bucking help so much. Yes the fps is low but the shots themself are much more stable. I have recreated this in one of my hpa builds, but with a solid 350fps. At 80psi, I can reach indoor field velocity with the use of my long 5.96mm tight bore barrel. Its tight enough for the bb to still fall through.
Also this does explain why bolt-action bb guns out range aegs. More air volume.
Just my findings.
Back in my woodsball days before the popularity of airsoft, we used to use rifled barrels with pretty good success.
A tighter barrel with grooves etched into it so that as the air behind the paintball slightly warps the shape of the paintball, it engages with the grooves and spins
@@v3700I had a rifled barrel. it was ok but paint to barrel fitment mad a much bigger difference on shot consistency and accuracy. My favorite barrel was a 14in OTP smooth bore. loud as heck but the ball fitment was perfect for the paint I used (cheap striker paint) Snug enough that it wouldnt roll out but you could blow through it with a little force and it would pop out the end.
What's the physics of riffled barrels then? I had the chance to test one of these out, and it performed outstanding compared to my stock cyma barrel. I should clarify, both hop-up set ups were running Macron 50 Degree rubbers.
The physics is still applied, when the riffled barrels where made many many years ago (where they called TK something?) the selection of barrels was very small, and these barrels was made with real riffeling tools, so the bore was very straight. And the riffling applied is of consistant spacing and dept(so in effect it just makes a wider bore, also the bucking applied backspin force is greater than what the air is applieing, so therefor it has no real effect on bb travel, what it does do is add a huge cost to manufacturing, thus its not seen in todays marked for barrels.
An Old saying: If it works, someone will Make it.
@@reflexairsoft4648 Really? I would have assumed the rifling would create a vortex-like effect in the barrel, stabilizing the BB quicker. I would never personally buy one of those barrels anyway, the player I borrowed it from paid 1200 DKK for the thing. A bit too much concidering it was only a 155mm.
What barrels would you recommend then?
Yeah that was the selling point back then i believe.
But the power of the backspin is far greater than the turbulent air behind the bb and the blowby. So it would have so little effect, that it would not really show.
The bernoulli principle will still have an effect, as Long as the largest part is not the grooves of the riffling, if you would Make a barrel where the “groove” is super wide, the it might effect it, but i believe it would be a negative effect, as it might cause the bb to spirale.
Also if creating a vortex from the riffling, it would not go faster but slower(the air) bc the increase of travel due to the riffling increasing the distance the air needs to travel
I would say this:
Dont Care/clean gun often - Coated alu barrel (madbull)
Care/clean barrel sometime - madbull/prommy/zci steel barrel
Care/ clean every time you played - EDgI/Prometheus bc/ pdi
@@reflexairsoft4648 Madbull I've had no luck with. Both the black python Aluminium barrel, which I cannot stress enough how dogshit terrible that piece of crap is, and the stainless steal model. No luck with any of those.
I might give the prommy barrels a try, I've heard mixed reviews on them, but the local players who actually use them, seem contempt.
Well depends, the madbull in my books, is only accepting the red shark bucking, and the g&g green. So pretty much any other will Make it inconsistent. Goes for the steel as well. The only reason i recommend the alu coated, is for new guys, that dont clean their guns, so a brass barrel would look and shoot very bad after only 4-5 humid games.
Most players in Denmark would use the prommy steel, and that has been my favorite for many years aswell (pdi aswell) but im all in on the new prommy bc barrel. So if you want to buy a 500mm pdi 😉
i had a orga 6.23 i found i had lost a lot of range compared to Prometheus 6.03 both using MR hop 50 degree same fps in both barrels
I was always curious about the orga wide bores but could find zero information from anyone on them. Just people saying they were bad but no reason behind the statement. And the odd person saying it was the best thing they had ever done for range. How much range did you lose?
@@jamescameron6819 had the orga barrel in rifle few times different hop rubbers never found it great i was using it in tippmann m4 hpa 350 fps on a .20g but shooting .32g going to 55m dropping out of sky putting more hop on to get a bit more range caused it to have wide spread, but with 6.03 350 fps on .20g shooting .32g gained 10-15 m i played few game days with the Orga found myself to be just average amount of kills but with Prometheus 6.03 i had lot of extended range kills more shots on target flatter more accurate BB flight path i think depends on amount of air and pressures might work for some builds so many variables in guns, close up shooting fine but for long range did not work for me.
@@christopherhayto1089 I wonder if the fact that I run at 415fps would have any positive effect
@@jamescameron6819 i think what happens with 6.23 if bb becomes unstable passing down barrel if bounces in the bore disturbing hop effect thats why my bb's just stopped, if you can pass lot of air to float down barrel and a stable weapon platform so does not hit the barrel multiple times would work probably.
There's no reason to get a barrel like 6.23 unless you have a bore up compression kit, otherwise you should stay between 6.01 to 6.08
I'm actually getting a 6.20 barrel to reduce my fps because SCREW changing the spring lol.
Very informative video, I very much like it. One way to finally kill off the bb riding the top theory would be to have a clear barrel and just a slow mo camera but nobody going to invest that.
But the video got me thinking. What happens with these effects if you apply a silencer into the equation? (considering you have a huge gap suddenly where the air is turbulent with the chambers/baffles)
Really digging the video btw!
Edit; subbed, this is quality content I like to see
Thank you so much man, as for the bb Down the roof of the barrel, i might just do a very simple test. Eg. carbon dust Down a barrel and then just shoot it, but maybe it wont stick dont know yet 😄
When the bb get to the suppressor the bb has accelerated to vmax, and the air now has to fill a large chamber with air, and the bb flies faster than that to have an effect on flight, as it becomes too weak in pressure 👍
And thanks for the great Q
the only reason i install 5.98 or 6.00 innerbarrels is to bump up fps on my custom gbb pistol builds....
but accuracy...i dont see too much of a difference really....
i mean,its round balls going down a pipe...😄
What do you think about a very deep crowning? (like 2-3cm) Does it do anything good?
I will put that on my videos to Make in the future list 👍
Not saying you're right or wrong...i get 580 fps on target with AA 6.01 & 540 fps with 6.04 crazy jet on target..(think this was a M160 spring)
tight bore is usefull for pistols, because you cant just "uP thE PsI"
I think it would be reasonable to say a bigger bore is less affected by the same bore defect, so the bb would move lesser away from bore center and produce more accurate results. An airsofter mounted on a wall would enjoy that consistency, but not the speed baller.
nerdy is great. Don't you dare put that down. All the other channels avoid anything scientific which sucks cuz you cant actually figure anything out
Agree 100%
6.01 for max fps, good nub and hop up bucking and you are good to go 😂
You just made me stay away from 6.01 and just go with 6.03. Everyone always tell me 6.03 is the best and I always stick with 6.01 because I want to increase airflow. But now that you explain to account to the movement, I understand
i get bb skid marks at the top of my barrel. but only near the end
lol then you must be doing the curved shots from WANTED alot!
Tightbore barrel will increase performance.
My friend has a raven glock 18 that shoots around 270 to 290 fps he put a longer tight bore barrel in which I believe was 6.02 on the chrono it was doing 400fps to 430fps lol
I know ur german or something like that and btw great video. But dude the amount of times u smack ur lip is the amount of time i wanna smack someone. Lol but still great content
Thanks, the lip smacking is a result of my operation for cancer in my throat that has left me with very few seliva glands, so my mouth is very dry.
Im danish btw 😄
@@reflexairsoft4648 oh im so sorry about the comment man
No no its all good man 😊