Your starter relay is upside down. It will work that way but if the spring inside ever breaks or gets weak it will make contact and run the starter. A sharp bump in the road may even be enough.
I 100% agree with your everything happens for a reason statement Craig, cause 2 months ago my leaf spring shackle snapped in my truck and I was gonna drive it to work anyways on the loose leaf spring, but my truck kept stalling out when it in drive, and as soon as I fixed the shackle never had that stalling issue again, I truly believe that the world looks out for us so that we don't endanger ourselves or others.
With a pump that big I would run a return line, those deadhead regulators get really wonky with a big pump, swapped over one with a return and have had zero issues with fuel pressure
Thank God you posted this video. I've been looking for a good explanation on this forever. This is exactly what happened to my truck before I bought it. The resistor wire completely melted through the whole harness and created havoc. All of you just getting into Ford trucks pay attention!!! And check that little 4 pin plug if you have electronic ignition make the change!!!
Super helpful info in this video man! I have a 69 f100 that I’m 351 Windsor swapping so I’m just soaking all this up! Don’t get down bro, you’ll never regret doing things right!
My factory wiring harness was a rats nest in my 66f100, I bought a American Autowire kit and i completely re-ran every wire in my truck how I wanted it and it is amazing! highly recommend the company if you every rewire your vehicles. It comes with everything you need and even an updated fuse block.
Gorgeous truck and build. That sound 😮💨. With all of the attention to detail, look into a rivnut kit instead of the self tappers. Would be the icing on the cake!
lots of frustration but...ran into that same fusable wire problem on a chevy truck total pain.. best to make your own harness or buy one from painless wiring harnesses. love your truck and thanks for the info on Derale electric fans/shroud
Everything happens for a reason. When I was young and stupid I was hit about 120mph in my ‘70 Monte Carlo- my buddy was in his Camaro- backed off. Three days later I was just cruising at about 30mph when my drivers side A-arm snapped in half and about took me into the guardrail. Three days earlier and I’d be dead.
Thanks for the heads up on the resistor wire. Someone had already done away with the points and done the swap on mine. Now I need to go look for that issue
The relay panels, power distribution panels, and various underhood electrical control panels are well thought out and work logically -- well done!! It was a good omen that you found that melted/damaged factory wiring before it became an on road disaster. Can you electronically control and monitor the A-F-Ratio ? That would ensure the engine never runs lean again.
It looks like the junction connector(the black connector) finally failed. The wire that connects to the junction connector and then runs to the ignition coil is a resistance wire. It is designed to reduce the voltage and amperage that runs through the ignition points so the points don't burn up. If you install a modern 12V ignition system you need to replace the resistor wire to insure you have maximum voltage and amperage to the coil. GM also uses a resistor wire. Chrysler used a resistor block.
Rotate starter relay 180 degrees. Ensure it is grounded properly to the inner fender. You could get an original Ford/Motorcraft relay from a junkyard and test that to see if it works better than the one you have now. I just gotta say your truck sounds like a Formula 1 race car and a dragster combined! Dam, that IS a bad ass F-100 !!!!!!!
Dang good Craig, just a suggestion. Back in the 90's my 69' Fairlane 289 popped the distributor on the way home from work. Dual points system. That weekend me and my dad wired the complete ignition system from my wrecked 83' f100, 302. Never had a lick of trouble after that and improved fuel mileage.
You know I'm 58 years old, and have been assembling motors since I was 18 not including motorcycle engines I have assembled a few dozen engines for friends, and friends of friends. I then got into racing motorcycles, and assembling engines to the point I have done a couple dozen of them including a few Harley sportster and big twin engines. I say I have assembled engines because I don't do machine work, and that is the most important part of building a engine, then comes assembly to complete the engine. The third most important thing in the life of a engine is treatment. I impress that on everyone I did a engine for. First take your time and put some gentle miles on your new engine around 1100 to be exact the first miles are important as you need to make sure the engine is tuned right or a little rich, a little light on timing, the first 50 miles you should not cold rev or no load rev the engine, on the first long drives on a highway vary the speed of the engine a lot. at about 250 miles we power tune at a drag strip (MPH = HP) then you do what you want. I know you are going to make fun of this post Craig but I have yet to have any engine I assemble, and tune blow up in the first two years after being installed in the vehical, and you have blown up the same engine four times in one year. If I had a dollar for every year a engine assembled ran with out a failure in my life time I could build another hot rod. Craig if you got a dollar for every year a engine ran that you assembled I honestly think you couldn't buy a Happy Meal at McDonalds with the proceeds. Laugh that one off big boy. I also had a 76 ford truck with a .010 over 390, 10 to1 compresion, comp cams H280 hydrolic non roller cam, 66 GT390 heads and intake (both mildly ported) Headers, MSD 6al box, Holley 700 double pumper, stock bottom end all but pistons. This engine was spare parts thrown together combo made just shy of 400 whp, and ran under me towing my trailer, running for parts, and doing long assed smokey burnouts under my care for eight years until I sold the truck to buy a newer truck because I was starting a family. Quit being a tool, spend more time trying to figure out why your junk blows up instead of just throwing money at the problem, Spend less time on the internet and more time reading older books on race engine building. Knowing the nick names for all the ford body styles you can never make run very long makes you look like a dip shit. So spend your time reading really important infomation. Sorry this got so long and a little out of hand, but I hope it shows the difference between a mechanic and a RUclipsr. A mechanic cares about fixing what is broken or slow, a youtuber learns unusablle facts, and looks like a dipshit to get subscribers, and writen coments. A true craftsman is rewarded in cash payments, and the satisfaction his stuff dose what it is supose to do.
Great job this far on the new build , just take your time and dont hurry on finishing the truck . Work out all the issues before you rip on it and take it for a longer drive.
Love the videos I’ve watch almost all of them. I’m looking at a 85 dodge d150 it is somewhat primed and the other parts are patina can’t wait to go look at it when
@@Thecraig909 that’s fantastic. I have been watching you for the past few years and what you have done to them. I would like to see you complete the eventually.
Dude, I’m sitting here watching your videos. I’ve got an old 73 Ford Torino 351 Cleveland but it’s pretty much just 30 over nothing radical like your pick up. If I had that pick up, if I were you, I would go to the Hollie EFI that way you’re not tuning the richness and leaning of the engine, the old race car way by just checking the plugs you are then setting it precisely with software. That way it will never lean out again
I know there's not a lot of room in that compared to modern trucks but, considering how and where you drive this, I'd want to try and fit high-back buckets and proper harnesses. Safety squints don't help much for unintended off-road excursions.
I’ve had this happen in my obs ford with a 351w. I’ll start it and then it’ll keep trying to start. And when I turn the key off it keeps trying to start.
Dude i really needed to hear that im literally to point giving up on my obs but u motivate me to keep going 🤝🏼 keep up the good work bro and keep booming im a og sub from when i saw ur 1st video open headers in high school
Hey I like using those cheap "crappy" brass fittings 😅 they will last as long as any AN fitting and if done right looks just as good in my opinion. Which im more concerned with what works and what will make power and go fast than looks anyway because looks doesnt make power or will get ya home anyway. But your truck does sound gnarly as hell and should run pretty quick with around 400 rwhp . That nascar wheel setup looks badass as hell. Gives it the perfect stance 🤟😁
For what it’s worth I’ve ran painless kits before that you mentioned about swapping to at some point and in my experience now I’m changing over to American auto wires kits, not only are they easier but I’ve found them to be just a flat out higher quality, are they cheap no but have they been flawless out of the 4 kits I’ve done now… yes they have been 100% perfect every time and their customer service is amazing as well so whether this is helpful or not thought I would add my experience
Now get you some front and rear anti sway bars , I am running on my 78 flairside 1-1/8 front and 7/8 rear with nitro-charged shocks , handles like a sports car !!!
I did a painless kit in my 68. As soon as i got it home. The truck ran great. But the harnesses all cut and cobled together. It was not something that is a quick job. Good luck
Craig love truck bro you make me soooo excited to get my first project car. Can’t wait to see you take your baby to a show keep up the work. And I just comped a small block killer tee can’t wait for it to arrive
i prefer to "nail" the fan directly to the radiator. That way you dont need a shroud because the narrow fan "housing" is the shroud. AND you get much better cooling while driving.
Yup pay attention when divine intervention of 8 different flavors pulls up it definitely means something... also im glad u stopped it before the whole truck got lit on fire
Got to watch them fusible links, Ford liked to put them in a lot of cars and trucks, your fox has them in it too. Don’t know why they just didn’t use fuses, or circuit breakers. I guess a cheap piece of wire made to catch on fire easily and burn up quickly was cheaper than fuses 😂
HEY CRAIG! Could you give me part numbers for the radiator, fan and shroud? I've been looking for a setup for my f250 that also runs an electric pump. Would really appreciate it.
Your new fuel pump is quiet by design. It's a gerotor design (just like an oil pump), instead of the cheaper fuel pumps (ie: Holley Red & Blue), which use a vane design. Better design, more efficient and quieter.
Actually For older vehicles fan shrouds are not needed.( Depending on the motor build). Back then, manufactures didn't actually sell all vehicles with fan shrouds, the only vehicles that got them were "desert vehicles". Which people custom ordered if they lived in a very hot place. But my 71 F100 has a rebuilt 352 Big Block that's been bored and stroked to 410, its runs great without a fan shroud, doesn't over heat. Not saying for all vehicles fan shrouds aren't needed, just saying that some vehicles don't need them.
WTF MY STARTER IS DOING THE SAME THING!!! idk if it's the solenoid or if it's my ignition but my starter just won't disengage after I shut the key off, I bought a new solenoid and it still didn't fix the issue, I checked my wiring, I just can't figure it out at all, I'm thinking of putting a push button start in to Mayberry fix it for now
DUDE!! Great content and vehicles.. But watching this vid and seeing the coil youvrun on the truck is kinda sad. You gotta upgrade that overheating oil filled weak coil.
Those solenoids suck, I bought one of the nicer ones and it was 60 bucks, and it burned up and made the starter run exactly like yours. We ended up getting rid of that solenoid. I forget how we did it, but it was for a demoliition derby car, so it we didn't need any of the safetys or anything and it works perfect. Our starter also had its own solenoid connected to it so we ran it off of that with a bridge.
😂😂😂LMAO!!! If it were not for bad luck, you would not have any luck at all. LOL, I feel your pain. I've been there too many times. Hang in there it's coming together.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Your starter relay is upside down. It will work that way but if the spring inside ever breaks or gets weak it will make contact and run the starter. A sharp bump in the road may even be enough.
You called it
I didn’t know that so thank you
You called it. I am sure that spring made contact when he came down off of the curb.
You're a genius! Good spotting that dude that's crazy.
I'll have to remember that. Thank you.
I 100% agree with your everything happens for a reason statement Craig, cause 2 months ago my leaf spring shackle snapped in my truck and I was gonna drive it to work anyways on the loose leaf spring, but my truck kept stalling out when it in drive, and as soon as I fixed the shackle never had that stalling issue again, I truly believe that the world looks out for us so that we don't endanger ourselves or others.
when I put it in drive*
@@tylerladerach769😂
I freaking love this truck so much. That engine, and the fact it’s stick shift just make this truck so awesome imo
Everything happens for a reason, Craig. You probably just saved someone's life. We are learning so much from you. Thanks
With a pump that big I would run a return line, those deadhead regulators get really wonky with a big pump, swapped over one with a return and have had zero issues with fuel pressure
It’s good to see the sickest f100 on RUclips back on the streets!
Thank God you posted this video. I've been looking for a good explanation on this forever. This is exactly what happened to my truck before I bought it. The resistor wire completely melted through the whole harness and created havoc. All of you just getting into Ford trucks pay attention!!! And check that little 4 pin plug if you have electronic ignition make the change!!!
Super helpful info in this video man!
I have a 69 f100 that I’m 351 Windsor swapping so I’m just soaking all this up!
Don’t get down bro, you’ll never regret doing things right!
God this thing sounds angelic. Nothing like it. Thanks for the (very) short ride! From all things, i‘m glad it was ‘just’ the starter that broke!
Glad you enjoyed it!
My factory wiring harness was a rats nest in my 66f100, I bought a American Autowire kit and i completely re-ran every wire in my truck how I wanted it and it is amazing! highly recommend the company if you every rewire your vehicles. It comes with everything you need and even an updated fuse block.
Gorgeous truck and build. That sound 😮💨. With all of the attention to detail, look into a rivnut kit instead of the self tappers. Would be the icing on the cake!
Im running a powermaster high torque starter in my 10.4.1 compression 351 works great
Hi Craig, the wire is not connected to a resistor, the wire IS the resistor and it is soft and rubbery from new. Nice electrical distribution box 👌
Beauty job on the wring Craig. Im 43 and still learning sh!t about my truck everytime i rebuild something. That truck is a beaut
lots of frustration but...ran into that same fusable wire problem on a chevy truck total pain.. best to make your own harness or buy one from painless wiring harnesses. love your truck and thanks for the info on Derale electric fans/shroud
Everything happens for a reason. When I was young and stupid I was hit about 120mph in my ‘70 Monte Carlo- my buddy was in his Camaro- backed off. Three days later I was just cruising at about 30mph when my drivers side A-arm snapped in half and about took me into the guardrail. Three days earlier and I’d be dead.
Thanks for the heads up on the resistor wire. Someone had already done away with the points and done the swap on mine. Now I need to go look for that issue
The relay panels, power distribution panels, and various underhood electrical control panels are well thought out and work logically -- well done!! It was a good omen that you found that melted/damaged factory wiring before it became an on road disaster. Can you electronically control and monitor the A-F-Ratio ? That would ensure the engine never runs lean again.
It looks like the junction connector(the black connector) finally failed. The wire that connects to the junction connector and then runs to the ignition coil is a resistance wire. It is designed to reduce the voltage and amperage that runs through the ignition points so the points don't burn up. If you install a modern 12V ignition system you need to replace the resistor wire to insure you have maximum voltage and amperage to the coil. GM also uses a resistor wire. Chrysler used a resistor block.
Yeah man, never change those slicks, maybe some drag radials, but those slicks really make the truck look amazing.
Rotate starter relay 180 degrees. Ensure it is grounded properly to the inner fender. You could get an original Ford/Motorcraft relay from a junkyard and test that to see if it works better than the one you have now. I just gotta say your truck sounds like a Formula 1 race car and a dragster combined! Dam, that IS a bad ass F-100 !!!!!!!
11:22 yeah I have the same thoughts right now
Dang good Craig, just a suggestion. Back in the 90's my 69' Fairlane 289 popped the distributor on the way home from work. Dual points system. That weekend me and my dad wired the complete ignition system from my wrecked 83' f100, 302. Never had a lick of trouble after that and improved fuel mileage.
Glad the F100 is back! Lets go!!!!
You know I'm 58 years old, and have been assembling motors since I was 18 not including motorcycle engines I have assembled a few dozen engines for friends, and friends of friends. I then got into racing motorcycles, and assembling engines to the point I have done a couple dozen of them including a few Harley sportster and big twin engines. I say I have assembled engines because I don't do machine work, and that is the most important part of building a engine, then comes assembly to complete the engine. The third most important thing in the life of a engine is treatment. I impress that on everyone I did a engine for. First take your time and put some gentle miles on your new engine around 1100 to be exact the first miles are important as you need to make sure the engine is tuned right or a little rich, a little light on timing, the first 50 miles you should not cold rev or no load rev the engine, on the first long drives on a highway vary the speed of the engine a lot. at about 250 miles we power tune at a drag strip (MPH = HP) then you do what you want. I know you are going to make fun of this post Craig but I have yet to have any engine I assemble, and tune blow up in the first two years after being installed in the vehical, and you have blown up the same engine four times in one year. If I had a dollar for every year a engine assembled ran with out a failure in my life time I could build another hot rod. Craig if you got a dollar for every year a engine ran that you assembled I honestly think you couldn't buy a Happy Meal at McDonalds with the proceeds. Laugh that one off big boy. I also had a 76 ford truck with a .010 over 390, 10 to1 compresion, comp cams H280 hydrolic non roller cam, 66 GT390 heads and intake (both mildly ported) Headers, MSD 6al box, Holley 700 double pumper, stock bottom end all but pistons. This engine was spare parts thrown together combo made just shy of 400 whp, and ran under me towing my trailer, running for parts, and doing long assed smokey burnouts under my care for eight years until I sold the truck to buy a newer truck because I was starting a family. Quit being a tool, spend more time trying to figure out why your junk blows up instead of just throwing money at the problem, Spend less time on the internet and more time reading older books on race engine building. Knowing the nick names for all the ford body styles you can never make run very long makes you look like a dip shit. So spend your time reading really important infomation. Sorry this got so long and a little out of hand, but I hope it shows the difference between a mechanic and a RUclipsr. A mechanic cares about fixing what is broken or slow, a youtuber learns unusablle facts, and looks like a dipshit to get subscribers, and writen coments. A true craftsman is rewarded in cash payments, and the satisfaction his stuff dose what it is supose to do.
Take your time is solid advice
Great job this far on the new build , just take your time and dont hurry on finishing the truck . Work out all the issues before you rip on it and take it for a longer drive.
The F100 does sound great Craig.
That starter problem is unbelievable.
I know that you will get it sorted out.
Thanks for sharing. 👍 👍
Love the videos I’ve watch almost all of them. I’m looking at a 85 dodge d150 it is somewhat primed and the other parts are patina can’t wait to go look at it when
Did you sell the Galaxies? I really wanted to see them finished. If you have them did you lose interest in finishing them or at least one the red one.
I have both, you'll see a Galaxie video here in the next week.
@@Thecraig909 that’s fantastic. I have been watching you for the past few years and what you have done to them. I would like to see you complete the eventually.
Dude, I’m sitting here watching your videos. I’ve got an old 73 Ford Torino 351 Cleveland but it’s pretty much just 30 over nothing radical like your pick up. If I had that pick up, if I were you, I would go to the Hollie EFI that way you’re not tuning the richness and leaning of the engine, the old race car way by just checking the plugs you are then setting it precisely with software. That way it will never lean out again
Thing sounds wicked! Time for me to revisit my exhaust 😉
I know there's not a lot of room in that compared to modern trucks but, considering how and where you drive this, I'd want to try and fit high-back buckets and proper harnesses. Safety squints don't help much for unintended off-road excursions.
I’ve had this happen in my obs ford with a 351w. I’ll start it and then it’ll keep trying to start. And when I turn the key off it keeps trying to start.
Dude i really needed to hear that im literally to point giving up on my obs but u motivate me to keep going 🤝🏼 keep up the good work bro and keep booming im a og sub from when i saw ur 1st video open headers in high school
Hey I like using those cheap "crappy" brass fittings 😅 they will last as long as any AN fitting and if done right looks just as good in my opinion. Which im more concerned with what works and what will make power and go fast than looks anyway because looks doesnt make power or will get ya home anyway. But your truck does sound gnarly as hell and should run pretty quick with around 400 rwhp . That nascar wheel setup looks badass as hell. Gives it the perfect stance 🤟😁
I did a 21 circuit from kwik wire in my 76 f250, love that harness
For what it’s worth I’ve ran painless kits before that you mentioned about swapping to at some point and in my experience now I’m changing over to American auto wires kits, not only are they easier but I’ve found them to be just a flat out higher quality, are they cheap no but have they been flawless out of the 4 kits I’ve done now… yes they have been 100% perfect every time and their customer service is amazing as well so whether this is helpful or not thought I would add my experience
Now get you some front and rear anti sway bars , I am running on my 78 flairside 1-1/8 front and 7/8 rear with nitro-charged shocks , handles like a sports car !!!
I did a painless kit in my 68. As soon as i got it home. The truck ran great. But the harnesses all cut and cobled together. It was not something that is a quick job. Good luck
Craig love truck bro you make me soooo excited to get my first project car. Can’t wait to see you take your baby to a show keep up the work. And I just comped a small block killer tee can’t wait for it to arrive
Why do you have the old vacuum canister still connected inside the passenger side front frame?
i prefer to "nail" the fan directly to the radiator. That way you dont need a shroud because the narrow fan "housing" is the shroud. AND you get much better cooling while driving.
Sounds SICK!!! #BuiltByBo
The main wire going to the distribution box you made looks very small for the amount of power that can possibly go through it.
Yup pay attention when divine intervention of 8 different flavors pulls up it definitely means something... also im glad u stopped it before the whole truck got lit on fire
Which video shows u doing the wiring panel
What did you do to the suspension? I want to lower my truck a little but not to much
Got to watch them fusible links, Ford liked to put them in a lot of cars and trucks, your fox has them in it too. Don’t know why they just didn’t use fuses, or circuit breakers. I guess a cheap piece of wire made to catch on fire easily and burn up quickly was cheaper than fuses 😂
Hello Craig! I was wondering if you had the rear package tray for 64 Galaxie 500xl with the double hump. I been looking for with no luck. Thanks
Craig shouldn't the fuse block with 4 relays be mounted in side firewall?
HEY CRAIG! Could you give me part numbers for the radiator, fan and shroud? I've been looking for a setup for my f250 that also runs an electric pump. Would really appreciate it.
Love watching these f100 video's. However I believe you mentioned putting a AFR gauge on it before ripping it again.
Part numbers for the shroud, fans and controller please.
where did you get the headliner?
Does this truck still have the tr3550 5 speed?
great stuff thanks
Awesome sounding great.
I absolutely love your truck Craig been a fan since 2018 keep up the amazing content I love
what size are those tires
Sounds so rad!!!
it sounds so good!
When did you get rid of the mercury switch on the hood?
Excellent work Craig. you’re a great mechanic, and I love your videos. So glad I subscribe to your channel.🔧⚒️🔩🔨👍👏👏🍻🍻🍻 Mike from Florida
Your new fuel pump is quiet by design. It's a gerotor design (just like an oil pump), instead of the cheaper fuel pumps (ie: Holley Red & Blue), which use a vane design. Better design, more efficient and quieter.
Ive been fighting my chopped up wiring harness for weeks and finally broke down and ordered a painless harness.
Super easy to install. You will thank yourself for getting it
Need to know the tire and rims dimensions asap looking to order for my silverado this week well because....nastruck lol please let me no
Where is the other Truck frame with the crown Vic swap and stuff !? 😮
Love the videos!
Actually For older vehicles fan shrouds are not needed.( Depending on the motor build). Back then, manufactures didn't actually sell all vehicles with fan shrouds, the only vehicles that got them were "desert vehicles". Which people custom ordered if they lived in a very hot place. But my 71 F100 has a rebuilt 352 Big Block that's been bored and stroked to 410, its runs great without a fan shroud, doesn't over heat. Not saying for all vehicles fan shrouds aren't needed, just saying that some vehicles don't need them.
Now obviously if you have a built motor, cooling is necessary. But vehicles can run without them
WTF MY STARTER IS DOING THE SAME THING!!! idk if it's the solenoid or if it's my ignition but my starter just won't disengage after I shut the key off, I bought a new solenoid and it still didn't fix the issue, I checked my wiring, I just can't figure it out at all, I'm thinking of putting a push button start in to Mayberry fix it for now
Frick that thing sounds nasty! It's like a late 90's cup car! I can't wait to see you really rip on it
Love the Trukk
DUDE!! Great content and vehicles.. But watching this vid and seeing the coil youvrun on the truck is kinda sad. You gotta upgrade that overheating oil filled weak coil.
What size wheels and tires on that beast?
One thing a small block Ford suffers from is heat soak .Got to keep it cool..Around 165 degrees is great..190 degrees...no
I had the same thing happened to me. And I had to replace the key switch and. Starter
That is some trick wiring🤟🤟🤟
Link to the electrical box ??
Put u some amsoil dominator or vrod in that bad boy. Did it my gto and love it!! 😬
Those solenoids suck, I bought one of the nicer ones and it was 60 bucks, and it burned up and made the starter run exactly like yours. We ended up getting rid of that solenoid. I forget how we did it, but it was for a demoliition derby car, so it we didn't need any of the safetys or anything and it works perfect. Our starter also had its own solenoid connected to it so we ran it off of that with a bridge.
Dang Craig, been bitin the bullet a lot this past few weeks huh? Eh you'll get it.
What Engine do you have? 302 or 351
Nothing like watching a fresh F100 video while wearing my new small block killer shirt!
Man, she sounds freaking rad!
How come you ain’t running mirrors?
Sounds great but dang U hammer on it so much
Build it, break it, fix it. Repeat
I can’t find the wiring video 🥺
Nice job on the wiring!
Such a sick truck
Really cool build
😂😂😂LMAO!!! If it were not for bad luck, you would not have any luck at all. LOL, I feel your pain. I've been there too many times. Hang in there it's coming together.
Man it sounds good
I laughed so hard when you caught yourself on butt plugs 😂. The response was the funny part…
Starter solenoid is upside down homie
Your voltmeter reading 10 volts at 19:36 No bueno! Alternator regulator gone.
Considering he doesn't have an alternator currently. 10 volts is not surprising.
@@dukes20084 so that's what the optima batterie had. Interesting. Hope you fix it fast, can wait to hear it rip.
Keep pickin at it, you'll get the bugs worked out of it.
Where did you get that electrical tape?!
I hope soon we get a vid of all the vehicles you have
However, nothing will cool as much or pull as much air as a proper clutch fan and shroud. It's a toss up. want reliable cooling? or free hp?