I ran nothing but conventional oil in my truck for years, never any leaks at all. I park my truck in garage so I see the floor every day. They had a sale on synthetic oil and filter at my local store, so I thought sure why not. After a couple weeks I started noticing some small dots on the floor. A couple more weeks later the drops got bigger and there was more of them. Looks like they were coming from the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I suppose that’s what I get for jumping on the synthetic band wagon.
I own a 2001 F150; full synthetic oil in the rear, full synthetic oil in the Differential, full synthetic oil in the engine; I’ve never had an oil leak.
I have a 1967 f-100 with a 352fe engine. For about the first 3 years my truck didn’t leak but I would have to add about a quart every 2-3 weeks. For a few years now I switched to full synthetic and my truck stopped going through oil. Generally I don’t have to add any oil between changes maybe half a quart at most if I do.
Rubber seals swells differently with mineral oil and synthetic oil. So some times you may see leak with synthetic but not in blend or pure mineral same grade oil if the seals are old and aged.
Base oils often lack the key performance attributes required for proper function; therefore, additives are incorporated to deliver the missing performance characteristics. Though the base lubricants can degrade seals, it's usually the additives that more severely affect elastomers. These additives, which are more or less reactive components, can attack the seal material at all oil temperatures. Lubricant additives sometimes deposit near the sealing lip and develop into hardened accumulations that result in excessive seal lip wear from even the slightest axial movements. Synthetic oils have different base stocks, which comprise some 90% of the oil. [Again, a generality, which can in reality vary from 75% to nearly 95%, depending on many factors.] The base stock is the actual lubricant The other 10% or so is the additive package. So you want the clean engine that modern detergent oil promises? Maybe not a good idea. Using detergent oil in the N engine cause excessive wear of bearings and seals because it allows abrasive material to circulate and recirculate through the engine. Early engines used straight engine oil (non-detergent; "ND") and material settled out of the oil to accumulate as sludge in the pan and passages. The sludge was manually removed when the engine was rebuilt. The N uses ND oil, filters only the oil to the governor, and the sludge is manually removed during rebuild. Later engines were built to last so long between rebuilds that the sludge built-up to restrict oil flow. That problem was solved by adding detergents to the oil. Detergents (surfactants) keep the material in suspension so it can not settle out and accumulate to block passages. The material will then circulate and recirculate along with the oil over the bearings and against the seals. That is a problem because the material is abrasive and causes unwelcome, excessive wear to the bearings and seals. That problem is solved by using a 100%, full-flow oil filter to remove the abrasive material before it circulates through the bearings and up against the seals. Using detergent oil requires the use of a 100%, full-flow oil filter to prevent excessive wear of bearings and seals. Most "full-flow" oil filters routinely bypass a significant percentage of the oil, especially when cold and even at operating temperature. I am convinced that the use of detergent oils in a "clean" N engine is the better practice despite the partial-flow oil filter system. Of course, such practice would not be recommended in any engine that has not been thoroughly cleaned during a major overhaul."
Should you switch to synthetic oil? Absolutely. One last note, Friends don't let Friends use Fram oil filters. It's just one of those things you just don't do.
Sorry but this just isnt true. If youve run mineral oils previously and then switch to synthetic oil you will start getting MASSIVE oilleaks. I know this from personal experience on several different cars. I had a car I ran for a whole year without a single leak, I then did a service on it and put synthetic oil and it started to leak from pretty much everywhere, every gasket, every seal. It even started leaking from places you NEVER get leaks from otherwise.
@@admiralfloofz658 You already had those leaks then. Conventional oil that turned to sludge was blocking those leaks. Synthetic oil cleaned them out. Good thing you switched, now you know you need to replace some seals/gaskets before you suffered a catastrophic failure.
I ran nothing but conventional oil in my truck for years, never any leaks at all. I park my truck in garage so I see the floor every day. They had a sale on synthetic oil and filter at my local store, so I thought sure why not. After a couple weeks I started noticing some small dots on the floor. A couple more weeks later the drops got bigger and there was more of them. Looks like they were coming from the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. I suppose that’s what I get for jumping on the synthetic band wagon.
I'm gonna check if I had synthetic put in - when I had leaking seals - the leaks "stopped" - maybe after I changed back to conventional!
The answer "technically no... But actually yes" lol
I own a 2001 F150; full synthetic oil in the rear, full synthetic oil in the Differential, full synthetic oil in the engine; I’ve never had an oil leak.
You can always tell when there's a corporate cover up on a RUclips search ... the 1st 2 dozen hits just have a campaign Comercial vibe lol.
I have a 1967 f-100 with a 352fe engine. For about the first 3 years my truck didn’t leak but I would have to add about a quart every 2-3 weeks. For a few years now I switched to full synthetic and my truck stopped going through oil. Generally I don’t have to add any oil between changes maybe half a quart at most if I do.
Hmm..just from switching to synthetic?
Rubber seals swells differently with mineral oil and synthetic oil. So some times you may see leak with synthetic but not in blend or pure mineral same grade oil if the seals are old and aged.
Base oils often lack the key performance attributes required for proper function; therefore, additives are incorporated to deliver the missing performance characteristics. Though the base lubricants can degrade seals, it's usually the additives that more severely affect elastomers. These additives, which are more or less reactive components, can attack the seal material at all oil temperatures. Lubricant additives sometimes deposit near the sealing lip and develop into hardened accumulations that result in excessive seal lip wear from even the slightest axial movements.
Synthetic oils have different base stocks, which comprise some 90% of the oil. [Again, a generality, which can in reality vary from 75% to nearly 95%, depending on many factors.] The base stock is the actual lubricant The other 10% or so is the additive package.
So you want the clean engine that modern detergent oil promises? Maybe not a good idea.
Using detergent oil in the N engine cause excessive wear of bearings and seals because it allows abrasive material to circulate and recirculate through the engine.
Early engines used straight engine oil (non-detergent; "ND") and material settled out of the oil to accumulate as sludge in the pan and passages. The sludge was manually removed when the engine was rebuilt. The N uses ND oil, filters only the oil to the governor, and the sludge is manually removed during rebuild.
Later engines were built to last so long between rebuilds that the sludge built-up to restrict oil flow. That problem was solved by adding detergents to the oil. Detergents (surfactants) keep the material in suspension so it can not settle out and accumulate to block passages. The material will then circulate and recirculate along with the oil over the bearings and against the seals.
That is a problem because the material is abrasive and causes unwelcome, excessive wear to the bearings and seals. That problem is solved by using a 100%, full-flow oil filter to remove the abrasive material before it circulates through the bearings and up against the seals. Using detergent oil requires the use of a 100%, full-flow oil filter to prevent excessive wear of bearings and seals.
Most "full-flow" oil filters routinely bypass a significant percentage of the oil, especially when cold and even at operating temperature.
I am convinced that the use of detergent oils in a "clean" N engine is the better practice despite the partial-flow oil filter system. Of course, such practice would not be recommended in any engine that has not been thoroughly cleaned during a major overhaul."
My 03 ranger doesn't like it, 142000 miles when I put it in, changed back to conventional oil a week later what was left in it.
I heard that even if you have rubber seals if your engine is low miles then a synthetic could over lube the piston rings and cause burning of oil.
Should you switch to synthetic oil? Absolutely. One last note, Friends don't let Friends use Fram oil filters. It's just one of those things you just don't do.
Yeah, no
So, they will actually cause a leak
Sorry but this just isnt true. If youve run mineral oils previously and then switch to synthetic oil you will start getting MASSIVE oilleaks. I know this from personal experience on several different cars. I had a car I ran for a whole year without a single leak, I then did a service on it and put synthetic oil and it started to leak from pretty much everywhere, every gasket, every seal. It even started leaking from places you NEVER get leaks from otherwise.
Did you watch the video??
@@smevox7490 yes hence my reply
@@admiralfloofz658 You already had those leaks then. Conventional oil that turned to sludge was blocking those leaks. Synthetic oil cleaned them out. Good thing you switched, now you know you need to replace some seals/gaskets before you suffered a catastrophic failure.
I thought oil on the garage floor is a good thing
A leak that is not leaking is not a leak.
Get The Crud Out!
So synthetic oil doesn’t cause leaks but it does cause leaks 🤣 you might see drips on the driveway but they aren’t really there
💪👍💯
Fram oilfilters suck