Hi, really informative video, thanks! I was hoping you could recommend a deforaming agent that could be used with acrylic miniature paints (Vallejo) as I'm having problems with excessive bubbles forming even just while picking up paint on the brush!
Thanks so much, I will give that a go! Also the same paint is not very durable when fully cured, from my amateur eye it would seem the paint has a lot of pigmentation (it dyes my brushes blue and is hard to wash out). Could it be that it's not very durable because it has a low amount of medium in it compared to pigment? And would adding medium rather than water help this durability issue? (Some of the surfaces have had 2 or 3 coats to full opacity and have been dry for at least a week).
@APykett-i6l you would need to add gloss medium and that wouldn't thin it down. But yes, The pigmentation is above the critical pigment volume concentration amount for the binder which makes it more matte. The staining of the brushes isn't caused by high pigmentation. It's caused by a specific pigment called phthalo blue.
@@APykett-i6l There is another thing you can try too which is Golden GAC 200 medium, which helps with film durability and adhesion but its expensive in some countries and hard to get in others.
Have you ever bought any of the Chinese internet mystery paints from either Amazon or Temu? If so, where did they measure up in the best of the worst and do you have the expertise to test them for lead or other toxins/cancerogens?
@@ParadoxriftsAU I have bought some and they weren't that bad, it was the arteza brand. Out side of that one time? No but I will for a video at some point. It just requires money I don't have money the moment. Still need to buy a microscope. But yes I do have that expertise as that was part of my job.
1) Do your homemade acrylics dry matte or glossy? 2) I do wonder if you'll or you've ever put Prussian Blue into acrylic? I know that Prussian blue is unstable with acrylic (the pigment is acidic while the acrylic binder is alkaline), but there's this one brand called Derivan Matisse that claimed to have used the real deal Prussian blue in acrylic instead of Phthalo blue-based hues. Matisse says it's a trade secret, so I do wonder if you'd make your own stabilized Prussian blue acrylic?
I tend to make them satin or eggshell. I dont like matte or high gloss for a few reasons mostly how much harder they are to work with since I mostly paint models. I have made prussian blue acrylic before and I know how to do it but the major risk is that it can create cyanide gas so its not a risk I want around if I screw up.
Thank you for informing us of how you dispose of toxic paints. 👍
An excellent video that my non-technical oriented mind can follow! Love it! Still, I'm glad I can find this stuff in bottles😅.
Yeah its way more convenient hence why I have so many bottles of golden and tubes of michael harding
Hi, really informative video, thanks! I was hoping you could recommend a deforaming agent that could be used with acrylic miniature paints (Vallejo) as I'm having problems with excessive bubbles forming even just while picking up paint on the brush!
@@APykett-i6l I need to test it but you can probably use flow improver to thin it which should take away some of the bubbles
Thanks so much, I will give that a go!
Also the same paint is not very durable when fully cured, from my amateur eye it would seem the paint has a lot of pigmentation (it dyes my brushes blue and is hard to wash out). Could it be that it's not very durable because it has a low amount of medium in it compared to pigment? And would adding medium rather than water help this durability issue? (Some of the surfaces have had 2 or 3 coats to full opacity and have been dry for at least a week).
@APykett-i6l you would need to add gloss medium and that wouldn't thin it down.
But yes, The pigmentation is above the critical pigment volume concentration amount for the binder which makes it more matte. The staining of the brushes isn't caused by high pigmentation. It's caused by a specific pigment called phthalo blue.
That's amazing, thank you, this will save me so much time and hassle! Already liked and subscribed ;)
@@APykett-i6l There is another thing you can try too which is Golden GAC 200 medium, which helps with film durability and adhesion but its expensive in some countries and hard to get in others.
Have you ever bought any of the Chinese internet mystery paints from either Amazon or Temu? If so, where did they measure up in the best of the worst and do you have the expertise to test them for lead or other toxins/cancerogens?
@@ParadoxriftsAU I have bought some and they weren't that bad, it was the arteza brand.
Out side of that one time? No but I will for a video at some point. It just requires money I don't have money the moment. Still need to buy a microscope.
But yes I do have that expertise as that was part of my job.
1) Do your homemade acrylics dry matte or glossy?
2) I do wonder if you'll or you've ever put Prussian Blue into acrylic? I know that Prussian blue is unstable with acrylic (the pigment is acidic while the acrylic binder is alkaline), but there's this one brand called Derivan Matisse that claimed to have used the real deal Prussian blue in acrylic instead of Phthalo blue-based hues. Matisse says it's a trade secret, so I do wonder if you'd make your own stabilized Prussian blue acrylic?
I tend to make them satin or eggshell. I dont like matte or high gloss for a few reasons mostly how much harder they are to work with since I mostly paint models.
I have made prussian blue acrylic before and I know how to do it but the major risk is that it can create cyanide gas so its not a risk I want around if I screw up.