As a grammar nerd, I really really appreciate you pronouncing chamfer with an "s" sound instead of a "ch" sound. And as a wood worker, I really really appreciates the craftsmanship. Good on ya!
Lot's of good ideas in this build. Thank you so much for sharing RJ! I've never found one system I like for my situation so always enjoy new ideas I can borrow. Well, not really borrow, we never give them back, eh? 😸😸
This will likely be the last tool cabinet video I watch as I believe your design will suit my needs perfectly. The French cleats provide the versatility for tool placement that other designs have lacked. Very nicely done
One of the nicest, if not THE nicest and cleanest solution I have found so far to get ones tools always tidy accessible, maximum flexible stowable as well as always hide able onto the wall after a workday. To put the french cleat system into a chest is what came up to my mind for my own workshop only a short time ago: As a violin maker I ‚traditionally‘ put my most beloved hand tools openly visible to more or less beautiful tool walls, which can have it‘s charme but: having had to change my place quite often during the last years I‘d always to ‚invent’ my workshop completely from scratch in every new place and am getting tired doing that, dreaming of a flexible, quickly stowable, easily transportable and easily remountable solution in a new space… Startet to build a huge open tool wall for french cleats in my new workshop and already began to hate the open visibility of another ‚traditional‘ tool wall in my workshop before finishing it thinking of ‚wrapping’ it into a (wooden) frame (what they call a cabinet, I believe :) - thought about those clean looking shaker style or traditional japanese solutions and could‘nt decide for one, yet… Here I find what I’m searching for: thanks for sharing, man, really helpful and aesthetically realized - super inspiration for my own needs!
Tastefully done, at first I cringed when I saw the painting of the carcass, but have to say the 3 colors look sharp together. Hats off to you my friend!!
Hola. Encontré tu canal... Me encantaron los videos... Hoy por la noche los miré todos... Me encanta tu taller, tus herramientas.. Un abrazo desde Chile 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
@@RJsShedShop Indeed he does. By the way I built a new TS sled using your fence adjustment set up. Dead on. Finally something square in my shop. hahaha
Great looking cabinet~! Something I definitely need to do and I love the use of French cleats inside. I had that in mind for mine as well. I especially like the Dorito drawer~! 😁
Ahhhh I love it. The Google Algorithm must know I'm OCD on the shop organization! I didn't even notice the French cleats originally. I like how subtle and thin you made them. Often anyone who uses them for a tool wall just uses 3/4" cleats and it's sooo bulky looking. Good work.
Wow, I particularly like your colour scheme, it's very classy and yet very modern - simply a great balance. The french cleats appear to work better than I thought possible. Again a great choice. This is a project to be proud of. Very well done. 👍 All the best from bonnie Scotland.
Nice work on the tool cabinet. I'm already following your lead by "copying" your bench. I would copy this tool cabinet for the wall if only I had that much clear wall space LOL. Have a good day.
Very interesting. Even without your missing footage, it flows very well. I’m always interested in the different ways people make their drawers. Your lock rebate is a favourite of mine but one of our sons fits out high end RV and he makes his drawers using Baltic ply with pocket screws. The rear pockets are on the outside face of the back - and so hidden and the front ones are hidden behind the overlay drawer fronts. I was sceptical but he does it for a living and says that nothing has ever gone wrong. Another feature is the drawer bottoms; you do it what I call (possibly quite wrongly) the American way so that rear of the drawer does not support the bottom which is nailed or screwed in. I always dado all four sides and so the drawer bottom is held in place. Again, like rebates, I’m not sure how much extra required strength this gives. I say required strength because there are obvious differences to the strength required depending upon size and use (extremes of a small jewellery drawer or a large drawer to hold tools). All this has not led me anywhere and I guess I will stick to my normal operation of significant over-engineering. Why did you choose solid timber - as opposed to ply or high quality mdf? Again, it’s my curiosity and trying to look for better ways. For anything above the smallest drawer, I must admit that my go-to is good quality ply; for the lighter end of that spectrum, I do use all mdf. One advantage of using all manufactured sheet is that I don’t need to arroyo about movement and so can glue everything in place - which obviously adds greatly to strength. It’s all quite personal but I think I must share your choice of having all tools behind doors. My current workshop is fairly typical with everything on shelves or hanging on walls. It gets dusty so quickly; I am currently moving slowly over to a new, much larger workshop and am using second hand office storage units; to which I can fit drawers as required. Everything gets tied in aesthetically by being painted the same blue. Apologies for the wittering on but, even after 47 years of woodworking, you are always looking for a better way.
Hi bud, most of my hand tools are fairly new, as am I new to woodwork. I chose solid wood so that I could practice flattening a board, planing , reading grain etc. I certainly like the idea of all tools behind doors because of dust, these are just my immediate go to tools that are on display for easy access. A neat workshop inspires you a lot more to get out and create .
@@RJsShedShop thank you for that. At my age, doing lots of plane work is impossible;my back and shoulders won’t let me. So, it’s the planer/thicknesser for me; however, I do get a lot of pleasure out of using my planes for smaller jobs. It’s such a sweet sensation when you get those curls coming off. Unless you have solid timber lying around or available very cheaply, I would suggest using good quality plywood or the best mdf/hdf (in the UK, I only use Medite and, just recently, the Finsa range) because it’s stability allows a much better, consistent and lasting fit of the drawer into the casing. Quick-grown softwood (you can easily tell if it’s quick grown by the large distances between growth rings) has the largest susceptibility to movement whilst slow grown hardwood has the least susceptibility; I’ve never experienced ply or mdf moving at all. I don’t like the idea of building one quality for the workshop and a much higher quality for a piece in the house. I prefer to stick to the highest standard all the time but I know my son, quite correctly, tells me I’m guilty of over- engineering and that, for piecework, I could never earn a living. Clearly the adhesives we have today are infinitely superior to those available 50 years ago (which I remember), 100, 200 years ago. In those days, I rem,E r my grandfather making furniture with hand tools only and used the dried skin of a dog fish (a member of the shark family and which he used to catch regularly) as sandpaper. All joints then had to be both mechanical and chemical - hence joints like dovetails or dowelled/wedged mortise and tenon. I have little doubt that the makers around Chippendale would not have used dovetails if they had our adhesives available then. Why would they? Dovetails take time and time meant money. I don’t know which part of your Oz you are in but we go each year (COVID excepting) to our house on my sons plot in the Southern Highlands. I do bring back some timber each year and am typing here looking at a tilt pedestal table where the top is a piece of red river gum. Other than these bits which I figure contain no transport miles as they are with me on the plane, I try and use native species wherever possible.
I know this is an older comment, but I just now found this video. I thought I'ld comment on the drawer bottom as shown at 2:24 to answer that portion of your comment. For drawer bottoms using solid wood, you should allow for wood movement. You would orient the bottom panel with the grain going the other direction as what was done here so any expansion/contraction is out the back end of the drawer. Having grooves around all four sides is fine when using MDF or plywood, but for solid wood it would limit any expansion/contraction movement to the depth of the grooves and you may have a problem. Very nice tool cabinet, by the way -- you should be proud.
Хобби
I like your little tenon jig. And your tool cabinet. I will probably not make a tool cabinet as nice as yours, but I will make that tenon jig.
Awesome stuff, enjoy. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing thos great ideas with the woodworking community.
Thanks ,very happy to share.
As a grammar nerd, I really really appreciate you pronouncing chamfer with an "s" sound instead of a "ch" sound. And as a wood worker, I really really appreciates the craftsmanship. Good on ya!
Thanks champ, I am glad I speak ok. Thanks for the comment.
Lot's of good ideas in this build. Thank you so much for sharing RJ! I've never found one system I like for my situation so always enjoy new ideas I can borrow. Well, not really borrow, we never give them back, eh? 😸😸
Glad to share, you can keep the idea. Thanks for watching.
Using French cleats inside a cabinet is really thinking outside the box. Fantastic. Thanks.
Thanks champ
This will likely be the last tool cabinet video I watch as I believe your design will suit my needs perfectly. The French cleats provide the versatility for tool placement that other designs have lacked. Very nicely done
Thanks, its really working out well.
Nice. I like it. being I don't have all the tools I want, this allows for easy expansion. Good idea!
Thanks mate, its working out nicely for me.
I make cabinets and toolboxes from wood, only with hand tools, manually, look at !!!
What a clean design. I don't think I have seen another build quite like this one.
Thankyou so much.
BEAUTIFUL Cabinet! Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks bro, glad to share.
Really impressive, now I’ve seen French cleats, I want them also. Thanks for the inspiration
Glad to share, thanks for watching.
An absolute awesome job on this project!
Thanks champ.
Very nice tool cabinet - great job. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks,hope it inspires
One of the nicest, if not THE nicest and cleanest solution I have found so far to get ones tools always tidy accessible, maximum flexible stowable as well as always hide able onto the wall after a workday.
To put the french cleat system into a chest is what came up to my mind for my own workshop only a short time ago:
As a violin maker I ‚traditionally‘ put my most beloved hand tools openly visible to more or less beautiful tool walls, which can have it‘s charme but: having had to change my place quite often during the last years I‘d always to ‚invent’ my workshop completely from scratch in every new place and am getting tired doing that, dreaming of a flexible, quickly stowable, easily transportable and easily remountable solution in a new space…
Startet to build a huge open tool wall for french cleats in my new workshop and already began to hate the open visibility of another ‚traditional‘ tool wall in my workshop before finishing it thinking of ‚wrapping’ it into a (wooden) frame (what they call a cabinet, I believe :) - thought about those clean looking shaker style or traditional japanese solutions and could‘nt decide for one, yet…
Here I find what I’m searching for: thanks for sharing, man, really helpful and aesthetically realized - super inspiration for my own needs!
Awesome, this is all I hope to achieve from this channel. Its great to share ideas.
Tastefully done, at first I cringed when I saw the painting of the carcass, but have to say the 3 colors look sharp together. Hats off to you my friend!!
Thanks mate
Awesome Cabinet. Thanks for sharing
Thanks heaps for watching.
Amazing! Thank's for sharing!
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
Wow! this is a great cabinet. I called this a display cabinet and I love it!
Great job!
I glad you liked it, thanks heaps.
Hola. Encontré tu canal... Me encantaron los videos... Hoy por la noche los miré todos... Me encanta tu taller, tus herramientas.. Un abrazo desde Chile 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
Thanks very much, glad to have you on the team.
Hey RJ,
The cabinet turned out all well and good but your crowning achievement here was...
The Dorito drawer!!!!
Joking aside, well done.
Thanks bud, a good craftsman always has snacks on hand.
@@RJsShedShop Indeed he does. By the way I built a new TS sled using your fence adjustment set up.
Dead on. Finally something square in my shop. hahaha
excellent
Love it mate!
Thanks champ.
How good. Love your videos. Your shop is awesome.
Glad you like them!
Great looking cabinet~! Something I definitely need to do and I love the use of French cleats inside. I had that in mind for mine as well. I especially like the Dorito drawer~! 😁
I love my cabinet, it works well, let us know how yours goes.
Einen Daumen hoch. Aus Deutschland.
Ahhhh I love it. The Google Algorithm must know I'm OCD on the shop organization! I didn't even notice the French cleats originally. I like how subtle and thin you made them. Often anyone who uses them for a tool wall just uses 3/4" cleats and it's sooo bulky looking. Good work.
OCD minds think alike, glad you enjoyed, thanks bud.
The Doritos drawer, LOL Definitely implementing some of these ideas.
Every tool cabinet needs a snack drawer. Thanks champ
Gorgeous cabinet. Thanks for sharing
Thankyou.
Wow, very nice project! Well done!
Thanks heaps.
Job well done, mate! This looks great.
Thanks bud.
Wow, I particularly like your colour scheme, it's very classy and yet very modern - simply a great balance. The french cleats appear to work better than I thought possible. Again a great choice. This is a project to be proud of. Very well done. 👍
All the best from bonnie Scotland.
Thanks mate, much appreciated.
Very nicely done! 💪💪💪
Thank you! Cheers!
Subscribed. I dig the straight forward chill narrative and like your range of videos so far. Best of luck, enjoy!
Awesome, thanks heaps.
grate job, it was good to see it. Thanks
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it.
Beautiful work mate!
Thank you! Cheers!
Finally I can see your final outcome. Very nice product ...
Cheers, thanks for watching.
I love Doritos!!! Great video too, super nice cabinet! You've inspired me!
Doritis are a must in the shop, I hope your cabinet turns out even better. Thanks
Beautiful mate.
Thanks bud.
Fantastic job RJ.
Thanks bud.
Nice work on the tool cabinet. I'm already following your lead by "copying" your bench. I would copy this tool cabinet for the wall if only I had that much clear wall space LOL. Have a good day.
Thanks champ, you can always find some wall space. let us know how your bench turns out.
Great build
Thanks champ.
Good Job! Greetings Fromm Germany! Mike
Thankyou, G day from Australia.
This is one of the greatest project i have ever seen in You tube. Greetings from Sri lanka.
Thanks very much, hello from Australia
thx 4 sharing this!
Thats what it is all about, thanks for watching.
Amigo que trabalho maguinifico 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Thanks very much.
Very interesting. Even without your missing footage, it flows very well. I’m always interested in the different ways people make their drawers. Your lock rebate is a favourite of mine but one of our sons fits out high end RV and he makes his drawers using Baltic ply with pocket screws. The rear pockets are on the outside face of the back - and so hidden and the front ones are hidden behind the overlay drawer fronts. I was sceptical but he does it for a living and says that nothing has ever gone wrong. Another feature is the drawer bottoms; you do it what I call (possibly quite wrongly) the American way so that rear of the drawer does not support the bottom which is nailed or screwed in. I always dado all four sides and so the drawer bottom is held in place. Again, like rebates, I’m not sure how much extra required strength this gives. I say required strength because there are obvious differences to the strength required depending upon size and use (extremes of a small jewellery drawer or a large drawer to hold tools).
All this has not led me anywhere and I guess I will stick to my normal operation of significant over-engineering.
Why did you choose solid timber - as opposed to ply or high quality mdf? Again, it’s my curiosity and trying to look for better ways. For anything above the smallest drawer, I must admit that my go-to is good quality ply; for the lighter end of that spectrum, I do use all mdf. One advantage of using all manufactured sheet is that I don’t need to arroyo about movement and so can glue everything in place - which obviously adds greatly to strength.
It’s all quite personal but I think I must share your choice of having all tools behind doors. My current workshop is fairly typical with everything on shelves or hanging on walls. It gets dusty so quickly; I am currently moving slowly over to a new, much larger workshop and am using second hand office storage units; to which I can fit drawers as required. Everything gets tied in aesthetically by being painted the same blue.
Apologies for the wittering on but, even after 47 years of woodworking, you are always looking for a better way.
Hi bud, most of my hand tools are fairly new, as am I new to woodwork. I chose solid wood so that I could practice flattening a board, planing , reading grain etc. I certainly like the idea of all tools behind doors because of dust, these are just my immediate go to tools that are on display for easy access. A neat workshop inspires you a lot more to get out and create .
@@RJsShedShop thank you for that. At my age, doing lots of plane work is impossible;my back and shoulders won’t let me. So, it’s the planer/thicknesser for me; however, I do get a lot of pleasure out of using my planes for smaller jobs. It’s such a sweet sensation when you get those curls coming off.
Unless you have solid timber lying around or available very cheaply, I would suggest using good quality plywood or the best mdf/hdf (in the UK, I only use Medite and, just recently, the Finsa range) because it’s stability allows a much better, consistent and lasting fit of the drawer into the casing. Quick-grown softwood (you can easily tell if it’s quick grown by the large distances between growth rings) has the largest susceptibility to movement whilst slow grown hardwood has the least susceptibility; I’ve never experienced ply or mdf moving at all.
I don’t like the idea of building one quality for the workshop and a much higher quality for a piece in the house. I prefer to stick to the highest standard all the time but I know my son, quite correctly, tells me I’m guilty of over- engineering and that, for piecework, I could never earn a living.
Clearly the adhesives we have today are infinitely superior to those available 50 years ago (which I remember), 100, 200 years ago. In those days, I rem,E r my grandfather making furniture with hand tools only and used the dried skin of a dog fish (a member of the shark family and which he used to catch regularly) as sandpaper. All joints then had to be both mechanical and chemical - hence joints like dovetails or dowelled/wedged mortise and tenon. I have little doubt that the makers around Chippendale would not have used dovetails if they had our adhesives available then. Why would they? Dovetails take time and time meant money.
I don’t know which part of your Oz you are in but we go each year (COVID excepting) to our house on my sons plot in the Southern Highlands. I do bring back some timber each year and am typing here looking at a tilt pedestal table where the top is a piece of red river gum. Other than these bits which I figure contain no transport miles as they are with me on the plane, I try and use native species wherever possible.
I know this is an older comment, but I just now found this video. I thought I'ld comment on the drawer bottom as shown at 2:24 to answer that portion of your comment. For drawer bottoms using solid wood, you should allow for wood movement. You would orient the bottom panel with the grain going the other direction as what was done here so any expansion/contraction is out the back end of the drawer. Having grooves around all four sides is fine when using MDF or plywood, but for solid wood it would limit any expansion/contraction movement to the depth of the grooves and you may have a problem. Very nice tool cabinet, by the way -- you should be proud.
What was the spacing and size of the plywood for the French cleat ? Thanks for the great video
Thanks, 6mm ply 20mm spacing.
Are your French Cleat Panels and cleats made from 1/4 inch plywood or3/8 inch plywood?
1/4 inch thanks for watching.
What router plane is that? I’m not sure I’ve seen one like it before
Veritas router plane.
Sorry champ little mistake the router plane was not my veritas one. it was my little one made by LUBAN. Sorry bud.
Damn
Thanks bud.
Nice work Bud, would you mind sharing the various dimensions used: l x W x H, drawer sizes, door sizes ect. Cheers Mate.
Will do
Cabinet L=275 W=1870 H=970mm Doors W=500 H=830 Drawers W=200 H=80 D=230 Hope this helps. Thanks
@@RJsShedShop Brilliant, Thanks Mate.
Do you remember the dimensions and spacing of your cleats?
35mm from 6mm ply. Thanks for watching.
Damn dandy cabbie I’d say!
Very good, thanks heaps.
I ned plan
Sorry champ, I don't have plans but I know you can do it. Thanks for watching.