I bought two kits (43 and 43/52) and the used a hydraulic press to press out my barrel pins. First one was a breeze, but the second one bent the plate underneath the trunnion. Didn’t notice until it was too late. Lesson learned. Some of these pins are very tight and take more force to push out than the sheet metal can withstand. I would drill out the pins where they pass thru the sheet metal AND make sure you have support directly under the trunnion. I didn’t do either and paid the price on one of my guns.
Built a few of these....first thing i did for the bolt was made an aluminum fixture that holds the bolt in position, then that goes in the 4 jaw chuck. A couple aircraft length drills and works perfect and repeats every time. One tip, get the drop in trigger unit if you can because trying to make a Remington 870 trigger group work in one of these is very difficult
@@JPMachine I should have specified better, I meant. What is the Distance from the front sight post to the rear sight? I was just wondering what it was like from the factory or if you new... I am guessing it would be O.12? cause that is two cuts?
@@panchopistola8298 I don’t have that exact measurement in the blueprint but I show 370mm from the middle of the rear sight to the front of the receiver piece. (Minus the front “brake” hoop. )
I wish I had the willpower and skill to do something like this, PPS is my favourite wartime smg and owning one of the polish 43/52 variants and the addition of the longer barrel.
Get a mig welder and practice cutting a steel pipe apart and welding and grinding it back together! Practice makes perfect. The low cost of the kits really helps if you mess up once or twice too!
It’s pretty simple, clamp the jig in with vice grip pliers. Size the ejection port to 2.00” long and tack in place. Use AL flat stock to back up the flat parts of the receiver. Slowly tack around the whole receiver. Let it cool after each tack. Then just weld up the next cut behind the sight. For the last one in the back, size it to the lower receiver and tack it in place. Dim’s don’t really matter as long as the lockup to the lower is nice and tight. Once you’re happy with the sizing weld in your denial bar and finish the weld up. The front weld I used my barrel for alignment and some 1/8” AL strips for the backer.
i remember that the front pin on mine was such a bitch to knock out, eventually i decided to drill it out with a 7/32 drill bit to leave some clearance and i replaced it with a 1/4 quick release type pin with the ring on the end
You did a really good job in rebuilding that what is the recipe that you used for your bluing solution can you do a video of that too that would be great thanks
I really like the feel of the whole trigger mechanism. I see these after market trigger components and they look like garbage. I am a machinist by trade. Is there any work around?
Freedom machine on weaponsguild has a FCG now and it is absolute perfection. Nice, crisp, and smooth with very little slop. In my latest range video I show a comparison on the pioneer and freedom machine FCG’s.
@@Prest0n97 I think you’re misunderstanding what you can do with a tax stamp. Unless you are an FFL07 with an SOT02 you cannot build a legal F/A. With a tax stamp you can build a semi auto short barreled rifle or take possession of a registered pre 86 F/A. What exist of those will sell for $20,000+.
@@JPMachine Gotcha I will look more into this. new to the legalities. Its getting to the point where its better to buy this gun for $599 from atlantic arms. I wish we had a way of converting to semi without altering the Trigger group. Most videos don't go into extreme detail.
@@Prest0n97 there isn’t a way because it cannot be an open bolt gun. You can just modify FCG’s on PPsh41’s and m49/57’s because they have a semi mode, but still need to convert to a closed bolt. IMO, buying a premade firearm isn’t as rewarding as building it. They do not have the original markings, and with the riveted on receiver section, they don’t look original.
@@JPMachine Hi JP you CONVERT the full auto bolt to semi auto OK. i just got one of bowmans pps 43 W/ the 9mm barrel. Your video is great. How much do you charge ?
I didn’t really cover every step of that, just removing the bottom plate in the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/XnY7jue0Q5o/видео.html Once you drill out the trigger guard rivet you use that hole for an m5 bolt into the rear hole in the pioneer trigger groups. Then just eyeball it straight and drill for the front mounting hole. The left side rail might need to be trimmed a bit if the trigger group won’t fit down inside, otherwise it’s not necessary.
surely the parts are easy to turn on a lathe and milling machine ,just need correct metals and heat treatment ,not hard at all ,could do it by hand if needed to its not as if parts are going into different guns,id make the fireing pin screwed in with a slam fireing system ,much easyer than the floating pin,the cut up parts id make my own from scratch get the meusurements correct get it done alot faster than rewelding and grinding ,,as i sid not hard to bend a bit of sheet metal ,you know its not falling apart,use a bottle jack as a press to drift pins out and to replace them
I noticed you didn't put a pic rail on yours. Did you just not want to go through the effort of aligning/welding it up: or were you trying to keep it as original as possible?
So out of curiosity: the parts kit has been 'fully destroyed' (as far as ATF is concerned about frame/receiver)...it is no longer a gun. So all the warnings about 'nfa item' only apply if you put the stock on it with a
You still need to comply with all NFA regs… so sbr, fa post sample, etc. receiver doesn’t matter. It’s still a rifle or a pistol depending on how you build it. If you build it so it cannot accept the stock or it’s permanently fixed in the closed position you’ve made yourself a pistol.
The barrels all come pre headspaced, if the bolt closes all the way so it rests against the barrel with a round chambered, it’s good to go. If the round gets pushed into the chamber someone ran the reamer too far in and the barrel’s trash.
Sending some gents your way for semi-bolt conversions, looking forward to the work.
I bought two kits (43 and 43/52) and the used a hydraulic press to press out my barrel pins. First one was a breeze, but the second one bent the plate underneath the trunnion. Didn’t notice until it was too late.
Lesson learned. Some of these pins are very tight and take more force to push out than the sheet metal can withstand. I would drill out the pins where they pass thru the sheet metal AND make sure you have support directly under the trunnion. I didn’t do either and paid the price on one of my guns.
Beautiful craftsmanship!
Will be building one very soon. Great video
Beautiful craftsmanship! Well done
Built a few of these....first thing i did for the bolt was made an aluminum fixture that holds the bolt in position, then that goes in the 4 jaw chuck. A couple aircraft length drills and works perfect and repeats every time. One tip, get the drop in trigger unit if you can because trying to make a Remington 870 trigger group work in one of these is very difficult
Very impressive, thank you for sharing the video.
Nice work! I have one chambered in 9mm that I made myself. Really nice shooting smg.
Absolute beautiful piece! This gives me motivation to work on my kit now lol
Do you plan on doing a build guide with the other parts lit that you have? This is by far the most helpful video I’ve found on building this by far!
I might build that one out eventually too! I have a m49/57 kit to build first!
@@JPMachine what is the distance from the front sight post to the rear ?
@@panchopistola8298 I don’t know exactly, haven’t measured but it should be about 0.6” shorter than original since my shroud is 0.6” shorter.
@@JPMachine I should have specified better, I meant. What is the Distance from the front sight post to the rear sight?
I was just wondering what it was like from the factory or if you new... I am guessing it would be O.12? cause that is two cuts?
@@panchopistola8298 I don’t have that exact measurement in the blueprint but I show 370mm from the middle of the rear sight to the front of the receiver piece. (Minus the front “brake” hoop. )
Very interesting and informative too!
This is awesome. I needed this exact video.
Thanks, glad it’s helpful!
Truly beautiful work
Thank you very much!
amazing job
Great video. Would love to complete one of these builds but I still have to many uncertainties haha. Would love to see this done step by step
Check out my latest build videos, part 1 and 2 for a new Pps43 build!
I wish I had the willpower and skill to do something like this, PPS is my favourite wartime smg and owning one of the polish 43/52 variants and the addition of the longer barrel.
Get a mig welder and practice cutting a steel pipe apart and welding and grinding it back together! Practice makes perfect. The low cost of the kits really helps if you mess up once or twice too!
awesome! now show us the full auto build process.
Bravo.thenks
Really nice build! Can you share some more details such as jigging the upper? Thanks
It’s pretty simple, clamp the jig in with vice grip pliers. Size the ejection port to 2.00” long and tack in place. Use AL flat stock to back up the flat parts of the receiver. Slowly tack around the whole receiver. Let it cool after each tack. Then just weld up the next cut behind the sight. For the last one in the back, size it to the lower receiver and tack it in place. Dim’s don’t really matter as long as the lockup to the lower is nice and tight. Once you’re happy with the sizing weld in your denial bar and finish the weld up. The front weld I used my barrel for alignment and some 1/8” AL strips for the backer.
i remember that the front pin on mine was such a bitch to knock out, eventually i decided to drill it out with a 7/32 drill bit to leave some clearance and i replaced it with a 1/4 quick release type pin with the ring on the end
should do a pm63 and a beretta 38A build next.
He should make that into a bullpup chambered in something better if he wants to make places seem like cities.
@@bunk95 7.62x25 is fine
PPS wz.43 kal.7,62×25mm TT.(7,63×25mm Mauser). Made in Poland!!
Do the welds break often?
I’ll bet the ATF is maaaad at you Sir…. Great work…
You did a really good job in rebuilding that what is the recipe that you used for your bluing solution can you do a video of that too that would be great thanks
Good idea! Next time I have a project to blue I’ll make one on that. It’s a mix of sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate
@@JPMachine what is the ratio sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate
@@octagongarage3504 5lbs sodium hydroxide and 2.5lbs potassium nitrate per gallon of water. Adjust mixture so it’s at a rolling boil between 285-295F.
Sorry if you've already answered, but how much do you charge for a bolt conversion?
It’s $160 for the bolt conversion. Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com for info
I really like the feel of the whole trigger mechanism. I see these after market trigger components and they look like garbage. I am a machinist by trade. Is there any work around?
Freedom machine on weaponsguild has a FCG now and it is absolute perfection. Nice, crisp, and smooth with very little slop. In my latest range video I show a comparison on the pioneer and freedom machine FCG’s.
@@JPMachine Thanks for sharing. I checked. It costs $165 which is just so much. I could spend $200 and keep it full auto with tax stamp.
@@Prest0n97 I think you’re misunderstanding what you can do with a tax stamp. Unless you are an FFL07 with an SOT02 you cannot build a legal F/A. With a tax stamp you can build a semi auto short barreled rifle or take possession of a registered pre 86 F/A. What exist of those will sell for $20,000+.
@@JPMachine Gotcha I will look more into this. new to the legalities. Its getting to the point where its better to buy this gun for $599 from atlantic arms. I wish we had a way of converting to semi without altering the Trigger group. Most videos don't go into extreme detail.
@@Prest0n97 there isn’t a way because it cannot be an open bolt gun. You can just modify FCG’s on PPsh41’s and m49/57’s because they have a semi mode, but still need to convert to a closed bolt. IMO, buying a premade firearm isn’t as rewarding as building it. They do not have the original markings, and with the riveted on receiver section, they don’t look original.
Would be able to give measurements on the welding jig? I have lathes and mills just can’t find the welding jig in stock anywhere right now.
Main diameter is 1.13”, the smaller diameter should be sized to be nice and tight in your trunnion.
Интересный пример деактива...😢😮
Это боевой, теперь полуавтомат только
Thats a beauty and do you make the semi bolt ? That welding jig there on Ebay ?
Yes I convert bolts to semi. Welding jig just came from eBay
@@JPMachine Hi JP you CONVERT the full auto bolt to semi auto OK. i just got one of bowmans pps 43 W/ the 9mm barrel. Your video is great. How much do you charge ?
@@RUSTYSURPLUS send me an email jpmachine607@gmail.com
Where did the trigger group come from
The best one you can get is from freedom machine. freedommachineworks.com/product/semi-auto-pps-43-fire-control-group/
The best one you can get is from freedom machine. freedommachineworks.com/product/semi-auto-pps-43-fire-control-group/
You still do this bolt jobs? I have one I'd love to send your way
I sure do! Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com
Are you still doing the bolts? I might be buying one of these parts kits soon
Yes, I am!
@@JPMachine awesome! Do you have an email or a website I can reach you at?
@@Tatsunami_Studios jpmachine607@gmail.com
@@JPMachinethank you. I’ll reach out when I receive my parts kit
I wish I knew how to contact you in order to pay for your help on my build.
Currently I can only do bolt conversions until I get my 07 FFL! If you need a bolt though, email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com
WHERE EXACTLY DOES IT SHOW THE TRIGGER GROUP INSTALL AND MODIFICATIONS?
I didn’t really cover every step of that, just removing the bottom plate in the beginning of this video: ruclips.net/video/XnY7jue0Q5o/видео.html Once you drill out the trigger guard rivet you use that hole for an m5 bolt into the rear hole in the pioneer trigger groups. Then just eyeball it straight and drill for the front mounting hole. The left side rail might need to be trimmed a bit if the trigger group won’t fit down inside, otherwise it’s not necessary.
Do you sell the bolts? Or rework a provided bolt?
I rework your bolt so your kit still has matching numbers.
@JPMachine cool, can we discuss cost here or do we need to do PM somehow?
@@KH2837 email me - JPMachine607@gmail.com
Ate you still doing work on pps43, if so how do I contact you
Yep! Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com
9mm Made By Tikkakoski🇫🇮 kp-44
DUX Oviedo, + West Germany too 1950’s
How can I get ahold of u to do my semi auto bolt
Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com
surely the parts are easy to turn on a lathe and milling machine ,just need correct metals and heat treatment ,not hard at all ,could do it by hand if needed to its not as if parts are going into different guns,id make the fireing pin screwed in with a slam fireing system ,much easyer than the floating pin,the cut up parts id make my own from scratch get the meusurements correct get it done alot faster than rewelding and grinding ,,as i sid not hard to bend a bit of sheet metal ,you know its not falling apart,use a bottle jack as a press to drift pins out and to replace them
This video is Tempting me to buy a kit or two
Do it! They’re fun builds. See my new video too, I’m in the process of building a 1950 kit
I’m stocking up so when the NFA is found unconstitutional I am ready to build.
I noticed you didn't put a pic rail on yours. Did you just not want to go through the effort of aligning/welding it up: or were you trying to keep it as original as possible?
The idea here was to make it as original as possible with a 16” barrel. Iron sights work just fine!
Bolt wieght?
Pps43 semi works great with the original
bolt weight minus a few oz from the drill through and cut for the denial bar.
So out of curiosity: the parts kit has been 'fully destroyed' (as far as ATF is concerned about frame/receiver)...it is no longer a gun. So all the warnings about 'nfa item' only apply if you put the stock on it with a
You still need to comply with all NFA regs… so sbr, fa post sample, etc. receiver doesn’t matter. It’s still a rifle or a pistol depending on how you build it. If you build it so it cannot accept the stock or it’s permanently fixed in the closed position you’ve made yourself a pistol.
What are you using for that drop in trigger?
Currently it’s a pioneer arms but I’m switching both my pps43’s over to freedom machine groups in a few weeks when they’re available on WG
You had me at "retarded aardvark" 😂
How did you headspace it
The barrels all come pre headspaced, if the bolt closes all the way so it rests against the barrel with a round chambered, it’s good to go. If the round gets pushed into the chamber someone ran the reamer too far in and the barrel’s trash.
@@JPMachine ok thanks for the advice. Still waiting for the parts kit to arrive.
How can I contact you for a semi auto bolt?
I have usernames on a few sites: cmpforum, Reddit, WG - jpolham1; akfiles and gunboards - cbrkneedrggr. I’ve got WTS ads on most of those sites
Didn’t find anything. Is there a better way to contact you!
I found someone on eBay thought it may have been you. Same size denial bar and milling looked the same.
@@neilmartin9446 same me, yes. It’s $25 more through eBay though. Here is my Reddit: www.reddit.com/u/jpolham1/?
More information on the bolts (same info as eBay) here: forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?p=2177996#post2177996
Very nice!
Would like to see a video on using a parts kit to make the semi-auto version a full auto.
You would need to be watching an FFL07/Class 2 SOT do that!
Look how they massacred my boy...
So sad that these guns have to be demilled in the first place.