Thanks! It took lots of messing things up to learn the hard way. Figured it would be helpful to teach others what I’ve learned by doing it wrong a few times. Not saying everything I do is the right way, but it’s the way that works for me!
Great job. Just a little piece of advice here though. From a guy who has a lathe, not a wife. When you're threading, use cutting fluid. It's also best practice to not reverse your cutter through a thread on the lathe. You can set your compound slide to 45° and at the end of your cut retract the compound slide .100" then go back to your start point and advance back .100"; then with your cross slide select how much material to remove. As long as you don't have .100" of play in your compound slide, OR your finished depth is greater than .100" you will avoid getting a rougher finish. Another trick with the smaller lathes is to use a sandbag on the whatever part is vibrating. It will absorb some of the vibration and give you a smoother cut. Keep making things, your awesome!
That bluing is amazing, you are very talented! I'm thinking about buying one of the semi-auto pistol versions, and I'm curious, how hard would it be to do just a barrel swap? I have about a thousand rounds of 7.62 tokarev left, and I'm wondering if i could swap to a 9mm barrel in the future, if I want to, with my relatively limited hand tools - i have a drill press but no lathe, welder etc
I use taper pins for barrel pins. If you’re reusing a straight pin, find whatever drill bit is tight on the existing hole. If you use a taper pin, just run the reamer in to the point where the pin just sticks up past the top, then give it a light tap to seat the taper pin in place.
@@JPMachine thank you. I've a jig that holds all pieces until everything's welded. Some of those gaps are a pain to finish off. Keep putting up posts please
Any particular reason you are reaming from the bottom to the top? I thought that it might be better to have the narrower end of the pin at the bottom. This way the trunnion bracket will protect the narrow end from being knocked out by something.
How do you like that mini lathe? I’m looking at getting one to turn down a 7.62x39 AK barrel to fit a Galil parts kit but wasn’t sure if this mill could do it! You’ve inspired me to buy so many parts kits lol
The mini lathe is awesome! The only drawback I have found is the through hole size. Its only 3/4". That may limit how things are chucked in. If you do barrels it either needs to fit or you need to turn between centers with a dog on the chuck. Another option is try to stick the barrel in the geartrain end and see if it goes through the chuck enough to do your work.
Plug barrels for parkerizing, not hot bluing. If you plug while bluing you have made a hot caustic salt bomb once the air trapped inside heats up… not a pretty situation. Since parkerizing is at less than half the temperature it’s safe to plug.
@@SurplusArms it’s an awesome little machine! I have a quick change tool post set coming too. It turns some good quality pieces that would otherwise be impossible to make.
I’ve gotten MUCH better about leaving that in there since this video. I didn’t disable the chuck shield switch so I can’t turn on the lathe with it in there. I know it’s a big no no
It’s essentially a Brillo pad wheel. Here’s a link. 3M makes one that’s 3x the price. AmaCupid Deburring Wire Drawing Wheels, Nylon Fibe Wheel 6 inch 5P Hardness. for Bench Grinder Buffing Machine Polishing Copper, etc.Aluminum Oxide Abrasive.80 Grit, 1/2 inch Mandrel,1 inch Thickn a.co/d/1EaR8ij
I’m an electrical engineer that never touched a mill of a lathe prior to buying them. Just a guy that watches RUclips videos of people that know what they’re doing and I just figure it out when the equipment shows up. Lol Been welding since college when I bought a flux welder to keep fixing my car that was falling apart.
@@JPMachine Germoney. ^^ Here anything that can be remotely used to make explosives is not obtainable for the average Joe. A few years ago I could buy lead car battery acid in little plastic containers. Now they even made that illegal and you can only buy sealed lead car batteries now not the acid alone... I guess too much rocket engineers from Africa and the Middle East are in town now... This assisted living sucks hard...
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
That’s what you call being a craftsman. Lots of us amateurs can make passable stuff, but this is next level for self taught. Great work!
Thanks! It took lots of messing things up to learn the hard way. Figured it would be helpful to teach others what I’ve learned by doing it wrong a few times. Not saying everything I do is the right way, but it’s the way that works for me!
That has to be the nicest PPS43 ever made.
Amen. This guy has a gift.
Great job. Just a little piece of advice here though. From a guy who has a lathe, not a wife. When you're threading, use cutting fluid. It's also best practice to not reverse your cutter through a thread on the lathe. You can set your compound slide to 45° and at the end of your cut retract the compound slide .100" then go back to your start point and advance back .100"; then with your cross slide select how much material to remove. As long as you don't have .100" of play in your compound slide, OR your finished depth is greater than .100" you will avoid getting a rougher finish. Another trick with the smaller lathes is to use a sandbag on the whatever part is vibrating. It will absorb some of the vibration and give you a smoother cut. Keep making things, your awesome!
very nice work
Many thanks
Please keep making content. Its all fantastic, and keeps getting better.
Great work man! The end of part one was amazing!
Nice work
Wow! Freaking beautiful!!
Very clean work man that’s awesome!
Looks like a very fun project.
Great build!
GREAT JOB
I love my PPS43. It doesn’t have a threaded barrel cause it’s original 1940’s but I do have it re chambered in 9mm
Nice!
Do the magazines still feed with 9mm?
@ yep! No issue with original mags.
@randykricke8685 yeah mine feeds 9mm no problem. Got vids of shooting on my channel too
Awesome! Did your barrel already have a cut-out for the pin that goes through the trunnion? I was surprised that you had to drill and ream that hole.
This barrel didn’t. It’s ok because I ream for a taper pin anyways.
Wow this is nice! ❤
17:36 Has me sitting here like "Okay, but why shouldn't I nickel plate my PPS"
I kind of thought that too. Lol
The finish on that👌
That bluing is amazing, you are very talented! I'm thinking about buying one of the semi-auto pistol versions, and I'm curious, how hard would it be to do just a barrel swap? I have about a thousand rounds of 7.62 tokarev left, and I'm wondering if i could swap to a 9mm barrel in the future, if I want to, with my relatively limited hand tools - i have a drill press but no lathe, welder etc
Barrel swap should be pretty simple. You may need to drill out the groove for the barrel pin but that can be done with a hand drill.
What size drill bit? By #3 do you mean .2130? I had a hell of a time getting that pin out today but got it done.@@JPMachine
I use taper pins for barrel pins. If you’re reusing a straight pin, find whatever drill bit is tight on the existing hole. If you use a taper pin, just run the reamer in to the point where the pin just sticks up past the top, then give it a light tap to seat the taper pin in place.
Love the video could you make video on just the bluing section
Great work.
What were the salts used in the bath, and, where can I get them. The welds dont usually take blueing well. That looks good
Potassium nitrate and sodium hydroxide. Both can be bought from dudadiesel.com
@@JPMachine thank you. I've a jig that holds all pieces until everything's welded. Some of those gaps are a pain to finish off. Keep putting up posts please
Any particular reason you are reaming from the bottom to the top? I thought that it might be better to have the narrower end of the pin at the bottom. This way the trunnion bracket will protect the narrow end from being knocked out by something.
Because the pins need to be cut to length and the factory end is the skinny end. Looks much better with the factory end on top.
@@JPMachine Oh, that makes sense! Thank you!
Thats unreal
Looks great! What did you use for the hinge pin? I am currently in the process of building one out myself.
Just the factory hinge pin. They do not get destroyed when you take them out
How do you like that mini lathe? I’m looking at getting one to turn down a 7.62x39 AK barrel to fit a Galil parts kit but wasn’t sure if this mill could do it! You’ve inspired me to buy so many parts kits lol
The mini lathe is awesome! The only drawback I have found is the through hole size. Its only 3/4". That may limit how things are chucked in. If you do barrels it either needs to fit or you need to turn between centers with a dog on the chuck. Another option is try to stick the barrel in the geartrain end and see if it goes through the chuck enough to do your work.
Take that key out of the lathe chuck!!!!
Question for ya.!
I thought you had to plug both ends of your barrel with wooden dowels when hot bluing.
Plug barrels for parkerizing, not hot bluing. If you plug while bluing you have made a hot caustic salt bomb once the air trapped inside heats up… not a pretty situation. Since parkerizing is at less than half the temperature it’s safe to plug.
@JPMachine ok. Thank you, you are never to old to learn something new. I appreciate the info/knowledge.
Another great video, do you have a link for the tapper reamer? That’s a much better way to set the barrel than I’ve been doing!
Sure! Taper reamer: www.mcmaster.com/2990A22/ and taper pins: www.mcmaster.com/90681A315/
Thank you for the fast response, I love your videos, how are you liking the lathe so far?
@@SurplusArms it’s an awesome little machine! I have a quick change tool post set coming too. It turns some good quality pieces that would otherwise be impossible to make.
I need an upper receiver and 7.62 barrel and finish mine.
That is CLEAN. Holy shit. How did you do that?
Magic and special sauce 😉 lol nah, patience and determination more than anything!
Never leave a key in a chuck. If it isn't in your hand, it needs to be laying on the table.
Shut it amateur
looks great. how did you remove the FA fcg plate from the lower? is it just held by the rivet or is it also welded?
Check out part 1! There are some spotwelds holding it down too
Maybe I missed it but did you keep this as the original caliber or did you put a 9mm barrel in it?
It’s a 9mm
@@JPMachine ok sweet. How much do you charge for your semi auto bolt conversion work?
160 for the bolt conversion
heck yeah man@@JPMachine
@@JPMachine heck yeah man. I’ll be in touch when I get my parts kit.
You REALLY need a spring loaded chuck key...
I’ve gotten MUCH better about leaving that in there since this video. I didn’t disable the chuck shield switch so I can’t turn on the lathe with it in there. I know it’s a big no no
What kind of welds are you making here?
These were with my old mig welder, I’ve since upgraded to tig
@JPMachine I love that you can barely tell that it was ever cut. Great job man!
How do we contact JP Machine to get a bolt conversion done?
Email me at jpmachine607@gmail.com
Since it wasn’t shown, how do you find it best to align the front sight with rear sight?
Line up the bottom of the shroud pieces on a flat piece of metal, then align the sides. It should be pretty close then.
What’s the proper shroud length for the 10” barrel? Trying to build a display and specs are hard to find
Hello, send me an email and I can send a print as an attachment. Jpmachine607@gmail.com
What brand table mill are you using
It’s a little machine shop 3990 hi torque brand mini mill. Great little machine for its size.
What lathe is that?
That was my little machine shop 5100 mini lathe. It worked ok, it gave me a good intro on some little equipment before upgrading.
What type of wheel for polishing is that?
It’s essentially a Brillo pad wheel. Here’s a link. 3M makes one that’s 3x the price. AmaCupid Deburring Wire Drawing Wheels, Nylon Fibe Wheel 6 inch 5P Hardness. for Bench Grinder Buffing Machine Polishing Copper, etc.Aluminum Oxide Abrasive.80 Grit, 1/2 inch Mandrel,1 inch Thickn a.co/d/1EaR8ij
Great work ! Are you a machinist by trade , I’m not but want to try this .
I’m an electrical engineer that never touched a mill of a lathe prior to buying them. Just a guy that watches RUclips videos of people that know what they’re doing and I just figure it out when the equipment shows up. Lol Been welding since college when I bought a flux welder to keep fixing my car that was falling apart.
Can I bring u my parts kit😂😂
Not yet, but working on my FFL07 manufacturing license!
@@JPMachine ayyyy, u can’t even make a barrel without an FFL07?
LOOL I couldn't even get Potassium Nitrate legally here... What a shitshow...
I’m sure I’m on some list at this point… lol where’s here, Canada?
I get both components here from a biodiesel company down south.
@@JPMachine Germoney. ^^
Here anything that can be remotely used to make explosives is not obtainable for the average Joe.
A few years ago I could buy lead car battery acid in little plastic containers. Now they even made that illegal and you can only buy sealed lead car batteries now not the acid alone... I guess too much rocket engineers from Africa and the Middle East are in town now... This assisted living sucks hard...
What size taper pin and reamer did you use for the barrel?
#4 taper pin!