UK suppliers can provide the correct bolts for the master cylinder. The bolts have half thickness heads so that they clear the torsion bar. The experienced guys on the UK Club forum prefer to fit the bolts as originally intended. There are two reasons for this. Should the nuts become lose the bolts cannot fall out. Also, there is very little gap between the chassis rail and the bar - hence half height bolt heads - the reverse fitment cold cause an issue with rubbing against the bar in some circumstances. The method of bending the bar slightly out of the way is way easier than it sounds. just need a flat bar and a g clamp.
A couple of wooden wedges between the torsion bar and the floor and against each other will force the torsion bar out of the way and enable the proper bolts to be put in the right way round.
Done very many of thesee when I wore a younger man's clothes. You do not need to remove the push rod, clevis pin etc, you can remove the master Cyl and service it from behind once the brake tubes are released. All the comments about the cylinder retaining bolts are true- I have the manufacturer's manual which advises to remove the torsion bar! Don't. It's spring steel you can force it without damage as per the comments above. One thing which is really relevant here in NZ: You don't want to ever do it again, so send the cylinder to an engineering firm which specialises in re-sleeving them in stainless steel. Do that, and it's the last time you need to do it. Happy Motoring.
Please don't use the pattern parts for the brake components: use the OEM equivalents. The pattern components don't last that long. I'm having to replace front brake cylinders far too often and now I'm about to fit the more expensive non pattern ones.
I find a grinder through torsion bar cut heads off bolts then Chap out pin punch getting the transmission cover off is hell spent 2 hours grinding brass heads off
Coach bolts - good grief I would definitely change them! An easier way when removing and replacing the master cylinder is to undo the union at other end of the pipe that runs through the chassis rail. All you have to do is undo the union at the joint behind the torsion bar cross member and remove the grommet. Saves a lot of skinned knuckles!
UK suppliers can provide the correct bolts for the master cylinder. The bolts have half thickness heads so that they clear the torsion bar. The experienced guys on the UK Club forum prefer to fit the bolts as originally intended. There are two reasons for this. Should the nuts become lose the bolts cannot fall out. Also, there is very little gap between the chassis rail and the bar - hence half height bolt heads - the reverse fitment cold cause an issue with rubbing against the bar in some circumstances. The method of bending the bar slightly out of the way is way easier than it sounds. just need a flat bar and a g clamp.
A couple of wooden wedges between the torsion bar and the floor and against each other will force the torsion bar out of the way and enable the proper bolts to be put in the right way round.
Very helpful... I was all day to find a piece in order to fallow your tutorial... part found and job done! Terrific!
Done very many of thesee when I wore a younger man's clothes. You do not need to remove the push rod, clevis pin etc, you can remove the master Cyl and service it from behind once the brake tubes are released. All the comments about the cylinder retaining bolts are true- I have the manufacturer's manual which advises to remove the torsion bar! Don't. It's spring steel you can force it without damage as per the comments above. One thing which is really relevant here in NZ: You don't want to ever do it again, so send the cylinder to an engineering firm which specialises in re-sleeving them in stainless steel. Do that, and it's the last time you need to do it. Happy Motoring.
Very helpful, thank you.
Super helpful video- thanks 🙏
Please don't use the pattern parts for the brake components: use the OEM equivalents. The pattern components don't last that long. I'm having to replace front brake cylinders far too often and now I'm about to fit the more expensive non pattern ones.
I find a grinder through torsion bar cut heads off bolts then Chap out pin punch getting the transmission cover off is hell spent 2 hours grinding brass heads off
Coach bolts - good grief I would definitely change them! An easier way when removing and replacing the master cylinder is to undo the union at other end of the pipe that runs through the chassis rail. All you have to do is undo the union at the joint behind the torsion bar cross member and remove the grommet. Saves a lot of skinned knuckles!