Boat Hull Repairs with 2 Part Marine Epoxy (Boat Work: Sailing 9 LIVES)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This video is part of our boat work and maintenance series. In preparation for repainting our hulls, we repaired damage to our gelcoat with a two part marine epoxy, PC 11. We show you the steps we took to clean up the damage, apply the epoxy, and then fair the epoxy before paint.
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Sanding, grinding, epoxying....repeat...repeat...repeat. Having a boat is a lot of work, but that Gemini will shine when you put so much work into it!!
Thanks, Allyn! We are definitely putting in a lot of work this summer... and there is SO MUCH yet to be done. I guess that is what next year is for. :)
We've managed to make a bunch of repairs to the hulls and repaint everything below the rubrails. Everything above the rubrails will just have to wait... we have some sailing to do!
With that great PC-11 product, you can obviate a lot of 2nd passes--and even sanding--by wetting your putty knife with *denatured alcohol* (or 91% isopropyl from the drugstore works too) during the finishing strokes... the segment @6:35 is a great example of where spraying some alcohol on your knife would've given you a flush feathered glossy finish, ready for paint or straight into the water. Luvz me the PC-11, esp. on white hulls.
Major Calibere Really??? That is a trick worth trying next time. Thanks!
Do you use a metal putty knife?
@@elijahsb8825 Yes, METAL is my preferred knife material, I have two different thicknesses--i.e. a thicker stiff knife to drive the paste into voids, and a thinner flexible knife for finishing the patch off flush, wetted with the alcohol. (Of course alcohol will also clean the UNcured epoxy from the blade.
I suppose plastic knives would work. I do know that polypropylene (recycle code 5) is one of the few materials PC-11 will NOT stick to... if I mix a batch of PC-11 in a polypro container, I can "crack it out" after it cures by flexing the container, and thus reuse the container for the next batch.
Hi I just wanted to add that PC-11 does cure white not offwhite/cream. I suspect in your use case, the color change has something to the air exposure or that wood piece you mixed it on(I used it to restore a ceramic bath tub). Thanks for this video. Also tip: Use acetone on a metal putty knift to smooth it out right after application. It lessens the sanding work needed.
Hey, Elijah! Thank you for the feedback. Interesting that yours cured white, maybe it was the surface I prepped it on as you said. Or, it could be the batch I have... I believe other applications here and there also turned a bit creamy, and I think I mixed on a plastic plate once or twice.
Oh, and your tip about acetone... I was told that by someone in the marina and I tried it later. That works great!
Thanks for watching!
Good work. It’ll all be worth it when you’re done.
Benjamin Wells
Thank you! We are putting in our best amateur-level effort. 😁
Good! But the manufacturer recommends using a N95 Niosh mask when sanding! But well done!
You are absolutely right! We have made a lot of mistakes along the way, some even dangerous (as you point out).
I would have ground that deep scar with a grinder and used a little raw epoxy resin on before the filler then wet sanding learn the technique it really does a great job. I use a bucket and old towel with varying lengths of sanding boards and blocks. But then at our club dry sanding and power sanding are pretty much banned without vacuum dust control. nice boat though I just did a gunnel down paint job on my 28ft boat which took a week of solid work but very satisfying when she went back in the water.
John Edwards
Yeah, going a bit deeper on that scar would it have been a bad idea. It seemed like enough to use the epoxy filler at the time.
As for wet sanding, I know the technique, but wouldn’t think to use it for anything but perfecting a layer before a final coat... and only then if I was spraying SOON. I also have done wet sanding on clear in the past, before polishing. This boat paint job... well, we couldn’t spray at the marina, so we went with a roll-only paint... it didn’t come out as nice as cars I have sprayed, so finish work to make it “perfect” seemed a waste.
Anyhoooo...
I’d like to see your paint job. There is always more for someone like me to learn.
Thank you for watching! 😁
@@Sailing9LIVES I did the same with a roller and got a similar result I think you did better but then I just used epoxy UC then 2 coats of home made urethane acrylic white (I am a coating chemist and R and D in the paint business) Rolling works well if you have very slow thinners I used a blend of butyl oxitol and MEK I also had some deep filling which is why the comment I learnt from experience on a previous boat where a badly done fill blistered a month later. the repair was hard to blend back in.
Wet sanding works well for prep too with heavier paper I used 180grit you can almost cut back too fast. I also find you get less skipping and chattering.
How do you share photos on here I would love to show of my paint job. Also I like your marina its allot like our boat club I am in Auckland NZ I do have a couple of videos up of my boat sailing.
John Edwards
I’m not sure how to share photos on RUclips. Maybe it is possible in the Community section... not sure. Perhaps I can check out the boat in your videos.
Always learning, my friend... I jump at the chance to learn a few new tricks, especially from someone with your expertise. 😁
I am sure that work would have been easier if you put the camera down and use BOTH hands. 😉🤪
You should follow BoatworksToday. He's a master with fibreglass!
Marcel D
Yeah, especially when trying to open up the gel coat cracks... no tripod handy that day. 😁
Boatworks Today is a great channel!
Craaaaaxx 😂
Endless
Can you use this to seal off rivits in a jon boat ? They don’t leak now but I want to paint and I want to be sure they won’t leak after the fact
Good question. I imagine you'd want to use something that can tolerate a tiny amount of flex, and I don't think this is the stuff for that. I know that TotalBoat and West System both have epoxy products that are made specifically to flex in applications like yours.
Hi what kind of sandpaper abrasive do you use ? Is it Aluminum oxide or something else?
Hey, Paul. Yes, nothing special. I believe in this case we were actually using once-used random-orbital sanding disks (aluminum oxide), which lose their backing far before they loose their tooth. 200 grit or lower to clean up the scar in the gelcoat, 250-300-400 or higher when sanding the cured epoxy.
جربت بي سي ١١. مايخلط جيد لانه ثقيل ، ماينشف بسرعه
نعم ، إنها ثقيلة جدًا. لكنها تمتزج جيدًا في النهاية. وقت العلاج طويل ، لكن في بعض الأحيان قد يكون ذلك مفيدًا.
Craaaaacks lol
Not of high concern when they are just in the gelcoat... but they are certainly annoying. :)
Use dremel not gouge
Good advice, for sure. But you have to be careful with a dremel, too, as it can cut too much if you are not paying strict attention. The gouge tool worked OK, but I agree it would have been easier to use a dremel.
Instead of an X-Acto blade, get a battery powered Dremel; 45$
Yes, that is a much better tool. In the moment, I didn't have one with me, so I tried the carving tool... it worked pretty well for following cracks in the gelcoat. But a dremel would be better. :)
Jesus Christ.... 2 plus days to harden.... there has to be a better faster hardening product than this Shit.... obviously no Boat Repair Service uses this stuff..... how do you charge a Customer for the “Hardening Process”.....
NIGEL BEAUMONT
I don’t think I said it took that long, did I? It does take a good several hours, so I usually just waited overnight. 😁
I don't remember it taking more than 4 hours to totally "lock up", but that's here in warm Florida... heat aids and accelerates the curing process. OTOH, the "5-minute" varieties are too unforgiving and require too many tiny batches.