Interesting solution and well done too! I have a 1996 BMW R1100R that gave a ABS warning on start-up after it's winter sleep here in Germany. This happened the year before and it was the same this Spring this year, that after running a few kms, probably 10-15, the ABS warning goes off (you also can hear the whirring actuation and see that the blinking red lights go off). After looking into this problem and talking to some riders here at home, I learned that the battery has to be in tip-top condition, especially if the machine has been in winter sleep mode... In Spring, when you first start the big motor after sleep mode....this fire's up the ABS unit simultaneously, the. ABS starts to blink. Usually the ABS is fine BUT it's a common problem with the battery state. After checking my battery power I found that one battery cell was dead which accounted reduced power to the ABS unit- thus an ABS warning light. I like the ABS system and so I forked out for a new battery and a new 'intelligent' over winter charger which is kind to the battery and assesses everything rather than charge/discharge. (My mistake previously) Just to note, I like to ride in winter too, when roads are ice free but sunny and less crowded. Cheers, Stephen
Thanks Stephen! Mine actually went wrong a couple years ago and I’d been putting off dealing with it. I tried to get the local BMW dealer and a couple others to look at it … and they all let me down. After watching those other videos, I finally decided to tackle it myself, and it turned out not to be a big deal. In addition to the warning lights, my rear servo had stopped whirring altogether. And this didn’t happen after a period of inactivity, and the battery was healthy. I read about so many people that had had these units go out during trips that I decided just to do without. I’m happy knowing it’s reversible, though. Maybe someone else will decide to revive it. Nothing is really off the bike except those unused brake lines, and I’ll save those (currently BMW parts here would want $200+ for new).
For the R1100 models the best solution is here: ruclips.net/video/WhnDh8Qo2WY/видео.htmlsi=cIVolWOH9NWaLmfZ I carried out this modification a while ago and no further issues 👍
@@sweetleon-fl2nx Two things: 1. Yes you will get a low voltage reading. 2. You can do an on the move restart (bump start), if that works when the battery does not have to crank and start the ABS a the same time then it is a possibility it's the battery.
Bu abs işe sendeki abs birbirinden çok farklı, ayrıca sendeki sorun ile bu da çok farklı . Sendeki aslında sorun bile değil , akü nün zayıf olmasından kaynaklanan" kontrol işlemi yarıda kaldı " uyarısı .
Thanks for that video, im also of the school of " Do it yourself and know its done rignt and cheaper as a bonus" Just bought myself a 2003 R1150RT, mine already has the flashing light covered by tape, would that mean that the ABS has also been annulled in my bike similar to your own process? Or could it jist mean that its deactivated itself through a fault while with a previous owner? Would love to get rid of that light if possible as it bugs me!
Thanks! I’m not an expert, but when the ABS fails on its own, the braking becomes VERY bad and the bike is not really rideable, so I would assume someone has done the work to bypass and/or remove the unit on your bike. I still have the tape, but I understand that it’s just a matter of getting into the dashboard and removing the bulb. I should do that.
Good afternoon from Spain. First of all, thank you for your time and knowledge for the work you have done so correctly and professionally. Would you please be so kind as to tell me what material is necessary since I have to repair the one on my motorcycle. In the video you can see some cables but I can't see them to be able to locate them. Excuse me but I'm using a translator. Thank you for your time and good work, thank you very much. Do the brake hoses have to be replaced too?
None of my HFT security bits would fit the fasteners on my 2004 R1200CL. I tried everything in the shop until I settled on the drill press. They looked like tamper resistant torx but had a different number of splines.
@@JamesCrandallPainting I deleted the abs modulator and fabricated a bracket for the electronics. I fastened it to the bracket with basic machine screws and nuts.
Colin Chapman once commented 'simplify, then add lightness' - I really can't see the logic of reinstalling 6kg of dead weight that would be better sent for recycling. It will take 10 minutes to form a sheet of thin aluminium or plastic (an old vehicle number plate) and a wipe of sealant to do the job properly.
The next owner might like to rebuild this part, and the weight is meaningless to performance of the bike in normal use. The shape of this patch would be more complicated than you think (that’s why a business in the UK charges good money for one they’ve designed). This way is FAR simpler than fabricating a plate.
Bruh... why on Earth would you leave a non-functioning part in/on the bike and then go ahead and remove all the additional ABS brake lines? Save weight and toss the cancerous lump. This video should be cited as a prime example of cognitive dissonance!
Because the next owner might want it, it’s not in the way of anything, the weight is irrelevant, and I didn’t want to fabricate a housing for the electronics. This was the SIMPLEST solution and completely reversible (I saved the ABS hard lines)
Interesting solution and well done too!
I have a 1996 BMW R1100R that gave a ABS warning on start-up after it's winter sleep here in Germany.
This happened the year before and it was the same this Spring this year, that after running a few kms, probably 10-15, the ABS warning goes off (you also can hear the whirring actuation and see that the blinking red lights go off).
After looking into this problem and talking to some riders here at home, I learned that the battery has to be in tip-top condition, especially if the machine has been in winter sleep mode...
In Spring, when you first start the big motor after sleep mode....this fire's up the ABS unit simultaneously, the. ABS starts to blink. Usually the ABS is fine BUT it's a common problem with the battery state.
After checking my battery power I found that one battery cell was dead which accounted reduced power to the ABS unit- thus an ABS warning light. I like the ABS system and so I forked out for a new battery and a new 'intelligent' over winter charger which is kind to the battery and assesses everything rather than charge/discharge. (My mistake previously)
Just to note, I like to ride in winter too, when roads are ice free but sunny and less crowded. Cheers, Stephen
Thanks Stephen! Mine actually went wrong a couple years ago and I’d been putting off dealing with it. I tried to get the local BMW dealer and a couple others to look at it … and they all let me down. After watching those other videos, I finally decided to tackle it myself, and it turned out not to be a big deal.
In addition to the warning lights, my rear servo had stopped whirring altogether. And this didn’t happen after a period of inactivity, and the battery was healthy.
I read about so many people that had had these units go out during trips that I decided just to do without.
I’m happy knowing it’s reversible, though. Maybe someone else will decide to revive it. Nothing is really off the bike except those unused brake lines, and I’ll save those (currently BMW parts here would want $200+ for new).
How can you tell if the battery is the problem? Would it have a voltage below 12.7v?
For the R1100 models the best solution is here:
ruclips.net/video/WhnDh8Qo2WY/видео.htmlsi=cIVolWOH9NWaLmfZ
I carried out this modification a while ago and no further issues 👍
@@sweetleon-fl2nx Two things: 1. Yes you will get a low voltage reading. 2. You can do an on the move restart (bump start), if that works when the battery does not have to crank and start the ABS a the same time then it is a possibility it's the battery.
Bu abs işe sendeki abs birbirinden çok farklı, ayrıca sendeki sorun ile bu da çok farklı . Sendeki aslında sorun bile değil , akü nün zayıf olmasından kaynaklanan" kontrol işlemi yarıda kaldı " uyarısı .
Thanks you for your video!
I’m glad if it helped 🙂
@@JamesCrandallPainting yes, it helped 👏🙏
Genius! I was thinking of doing it this way as well and you just confirmed that this is a good idea.
Glad it was helpful! Yes, I didn’t see any point in removing the part, or something that would require fabricating brackets or housings
Excellent job sir
Many thanks
Great job. About to do same job
Hope it goes smoothly for you
Thanks for that video, im also of the school of " Do it yourself and know its done rignt and cheaper as a bonus" Just bought myself a 2003 R1150RT, mine already has the flashing light covered by tape, would that mean that the ABS has also been annulled in my bike similar to your own process? Or could it jist mean that its deactivated itself through a fault while with a previous owner? Would love to get rid of that light if possible as it bugs me!
Thanks!
I’m not an expert, but when the ABS fails on its own, the braking becomes VERY bad and the bike is not really rideable, so I would assume someone has done the work to bypass and/or remove the unit on your bike.
I still have the tape, but I understand that it’s just a matter of getting into the dashboard and removing the bulb. I should do that.
Thank you for video- well done !! ;)
Thanks for watching!
Good afternoon from Spain. First of all, thank you for your time and knowledge for the work you have done so correctly and professionally. Would you please be so kind as to tell me what material is necessary since I have to repair the one on my motorcycle. In the video you can see some cables but I can't see them to be able to locate them. Excuse me but I'm using a translator. Thank you for your time and good work, thank you very much. Do the brake hoses have to be replaced too?
Your motorcycle may be a little different, I don’t know. I only needed to change some hardware fittings, but no new brake lines were needed.
None of my HFT security bits would fit the fasteners on my 2004 R1200CL. I tried everything in the shop until I settled on the drill press. They looked like tamper resistant torx but had a different number of splines.
Oh well. Hopefully you can replace them with non-security fasteners
@@JamesCrandallPainting
I deleted the abs modulator and fabricated a bracket for the electronics. I fastened it to the bracket with basic machine screws and nuts.
dear James can you tell me where to buy the parts I need to the same job on my bike please? I cant find them, thanks in advance
I’ve forgotten. See this video
ruclips.net/video/E-6zyf5DDJw/видео.htmlsi=KY98UEixoC1NlqLz
@@JamesCrandallPainting thanks I have already seen that one.
Colin Chapman once commented 'simplify, then add lightness' - I really can't see the logic of reinstalling 6kg of dead weight that would be better sent for recycling.
It will take 10 minutes to form a sheet of thin aluminium or plastic (an old vehicle number plate) and a wipe of sealant to do the job properly.
The next owner might like to rebuild this part, and the weight is meaningless to performance of the bike in normal use.
The shape of this patch would be more complicated than you think (that’s why a business in the UK charges good money for one they’ve designed). This way is FAR simpler than fabricating a plate.
Bruh... why on Earth would you leave a non-functioning part in/on the bike and then go ahead and remove all the additional ABS brake lines? Save weight and toss the cancerous lump. This video should be cited as a prime example of cognitive dissonance!
Because the next owner might want it, it’s not in the way of anything, the weight is irrelevant, and I didn’t want to fabricate a housing for the electronics. This was the SIMPLEST solution and completely reversible (I saved the ABS hard lines)
I know from doing restoration work that “tossing” old parts can only create problems for people down the road.