When you’ve made your adjustments of the tappets why not just hold them in place every time with an Allen wrench as you tighten the locknut. That way you will not risk the tappet tightening and losing your adjustment. You won’t have to do the adjustment twice!
French guy here. I have this ticking noise on my 1200 RT from 07. Got valve maintenance last November. Gonna pay a visit to my BMW dealer and tell him i am noooot franckly happy with his work. Thank you for this so well made vid.
You bring me back to my youth, where I set the valve lash on every oil change. I knew immediately if I was having cam issues and always had the right amount of valve lift (and thus the last available HP). Funny how important that last HP was, grin.
And this is a cold engine adjustment. Another tip is t pay attention to torque on those valve cover bolts. It seems a lot of people over torque them and then need to rethread the cylinder head. Those bolts are around 6 nm only.
Maybe it was the same stealership that did the valves that changed the plugs. I’ve seen a few videos on this and going to do mine soon. The other vids I have watched, when one valve is adjusted it changes the others so it was a back n forth adjustment until all four valves had the correct settings. Also, a lot of folks leave the gauge in, that’s why when I ordered a feeler gauge set from Motor Works (here in UK) it comes with a set of 4 gauges, not two.
Basically an oilhead valve tune video! But helpful for me since I recently developed this exact symptom and was unsure. I just watched your oil change vid (as brush up) and did the job, now gonna check valves and rocker arms (last done 2 years ago). Thanks for these. 🙏
Coming from a former auto technician, I would like to say I think you are very knowledgeable and professional in your presentations. Refreshing to have information explained without all of the profanity or throwing of tools or blaming the manufacturer.
I have seen other mechanics videos adjusting the valves and the procedure they use is to insert all four feeler gauges at the same time, doing the adjustment all at once, why do you not do that?
I am going thru a bike I picked up - I am suspecting my intakes might be too tight (maybe). I am getting blowback into the throttle body - and I can see/feel it pulsing/ticking on the flap (can stop most of the noise by holding that side where the cable connects. I hope it has not been doing this for too long and wore out the TB!!!! I planned on doing a valve adjustment tomorrow (I have been doing it on my other BMW for years). Thanks for your videos!
You made a few errors when performing this task. You only partially addressed the problem. The rocker arm end play should have been adjusted. You should have adjusted the valve lash (as well as the rocker arm end play) on the right side. You should have used a torque wrench to tighten down the valve covers, and the throttle sync should have been adjusted.
Was mir bei BMW besonders gefällt, ist der simple Aufbau. Im Prinzip kann jeder der ein wenig Interesse zeigt daran schrauben. Kleine Fehler werden verzeihen. Bei Ducati sieht das schon ganz anders aus. Das hasse ich das Ventil einstellen. Dort ist das richtig Arbeit. Es kann den ganzen Tag dauern. allerdings braucht man bei den modernen auch gute Software.
Moral of this story is to check both sides... .& Never hamdle the bike / throttle with filthy hands on a customer's bike ..😮 or even your own . Treat evey job as if you own it .. thats how our workshop runs . Ride safe . 😊
I have 2000 yellow R1150gGS 106000 miles, just like this, but I have to crack the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 way and hold a few seconds while hitting starter to get it to start. Everything else is fine ( idle, acceleration, etc.), and will start with just a touch of the button after warmed up like just after getting gas. I'm used to it, but seeing how that one started so easy I'm wondering if there is anything I could do to make mine start that easy. Thanks love the channel.
thats really not how you should adjust the valve clearance on an oil head , you should do all 4 at the same time , because what you so on the exhaust side will effect what happens on the intake side and vice versa , you need to go and have a look at some vids on here , chris harris has some good ones on the subject , but believe me , you need to look into this .
Buen día amigo, le escribo para saber si usted me puede ayudar, tengo una BMW 850r de la nada dejo de prender ya cheque las válvulas, hay chispa, hay compresión, gas. Pero la chispa se me hace dudosa. Que crees que pueda ser?
Surprised it would start with those valve clearances, some times it feels like you can have 0,2 intake and exhaust like 0.4 and it may have problems to start and having bad idle or high rpm power loss.
Hi there viewers! I need your help with this problem. I have a r1150r 2001 with approx 100K kilometers When running it revs and performs fine until 4500 rpm and then stalls, sometimes when I do full throotle in first gear it manages to surpass this stallment range and continues to accelerate with normal torque. Inmediatly after this, as long as the rpm's dont go below 4500 I'm able to shift to the next gears and continue accelerating to top speed. This can only be done with first gear due to its torque and rapid acceleration to surpass this gap, second gear and above don't manage to do it. In neutral it revs just fine. Anyone have had this same problem? Thank you in advance
They also had faulty push rods and cam chain tensioners... Soft tensioner- and rods made of aluminum with pressed chrome molly tips that tend to looses up from the rod. There are up grades for both...
Damn had too switch off after super super. I have to switch off when I hear the word super used unnecessarily before a word that already works fine. Like rusty and super rusty.
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Thanks for watching guys, I hope this helps you out!
What’s the torque setting for the spark plugs as my Clymer manual doesn’t seem to give a torque 🤔
When you’ve made your adjustments of the tappets why not just hold them in place every time with an Allen wrench as you tighten the locknut. That way you will not risk the tappet tightening and losing your adjustment. You won’t have to do the adjustment twice!
French guy here. I have this ticking noise on my 1200 RT from 07.
Got valve maintenance last November. Gonna pay a visit to my BMW dealer and tell him i am noooot franckly happy with his work.
Thank you for this so well made vid.
You bring me back to my youth, where I set the valve lash on every oil change. I knew immediately if I was having cam issues and always had the right amount of valve lift (and thus the last available HP). Funny how important that last HP was, grin.
And this is a cold engine adjustment. Another tip is t pay attention to torque on those valve cover bolts. It seems a lot of people over torque them and then need to rethread the cylinder head. Those bolts are around 6 nm only.
new spark plugs from dealer looking awesome,
Thanks for great video!
You bet!
Always a good reminder of what good/bad valvetrain noise is. Thank you!
You bet!
Maybe it was the same stealership that did the valves that changed the plugs. I’ve seen a few videos on this and going to do mine soon. The other vids I have watched, when one valve is adjusted it changes the others so it was a back n forth adjustment until all four valves had the correct settings. Also, a lot of folks leave the gauge in, that’s why when I ordered a feeler gauge set from Motor Works (here in UK) it comes with a set of 4 gauges, not two.
Basically an oilhead valve tune video! But helpful for me since I recently developed this exact symptom and was unsure. I just watched your oil change vid (as brush up) and did the job, now gonna check valves and rocker arms (last done 2 years ago). Thanks for these. 🙏
Coming from a former auto technician, I would like to say I think you are very knowledgeable and professional in your presentations. Refreshing to have information explained without all of the profanity or throwing of tools or blaming the manufacturer.
I have seen other mechanics videos adjusting the valves and the procedure they use is to insert all four feeler gauges at the same time, doing the adjustment all at once, why do you not do that?
I use your video for R1200c valves, engines are very similar.
Thanks for your time, and information on getting us more in tune of how to maintain our machines..
You bet!
lookout! she's gonna blow!
I am going thru a bike I picked up - I am suspecting my intakes might be too tight (maybe). I am getting blowback into the throttle body - and I can see/feel it pulsing/ticking on the flap (can stop most of the noise by holding that side where the cable connects. I hope it has not been doing this for too long and wore out the TB!!!! I planned on doing a valve adjustment tomorrow (I have been doing it on my other BMW for years). Thanks for your videos!
Tambien esta o se revisa la holgura vertical de las levas en sus ejes..saludos....
You made a few errors when performing this task. You only partially addressed the problem. The rocker arm end play should have been adjusted. You should have adjusted the valve lash (as well as the rocker arm end play) on the right side. You should have used a torque wrench to tighten down the valve covers, and the throttle sync should have been adjusted.
si tante cose devono essere fatte diversamente usare guanti, occhiali, brugola e chiave insieme, dinamometrica, ma va bene anche cosi
Was mir bei BMW besonders gefällt, ist der simple Aufbau. Im Prinzip kann jeder der ein wenig Interesse zeigt daran schrauben. Kleine Fehler werden verzeihen. Bei Ducati sieht das schon ganz anders aus. Das hasse ich das Ventil einstellen. Dort ist das richtig Arbeit. Es kann den ganzen Tag dauern. allerdings braucht man bei den modernen auch gute Software.
Thanks!
THANK YOU!!!!
(Cries in inline-four, shimmed, DOHC...)
And a moment of silence please for the poor bastards who bought Ducatis.
Would check the right side too. Just because the left was 'fixed' doesn't mean the right was actually adjusted correctly. Might even be too tight...
Moral of this story is to check both sides... .& Never hamdle the bike / throttle with filthy hands on a customer's bike ..😮 or even your own . Treat evey job as if you own it .. thats how our workshop runs . Ride safe . 😊
Degreasing the valve cover seal prevents is from leaking. Always remove/clean it.
Thank you, looking at a 2005 1150 GS. Will watch more.
verry good grts danny from belgium i drive bmw r 1150 rt bwj 2003
Very interesting. How can you tell you are a TDC? Do you have any videos showing how to repair the speedometer on a R-1200C? Great video. Thanks
3:32 NO WAY are those new plugs.if the dealer did charge for new plugs, that is a dishonest or incompetent dealership.
Those bikes look very appealing for home mechanics.
They definitely are! Easy and fun to work on, unless you have a clutch replacement, and have to completely disassemble the entire bike!
I have 2000 yellow R1150gGS 106000 miles, just like this, but I have to crack the throttle 1/4 to 1/2 way and hold a few seconds while hitting starter to get it to start. Everything else is fine ( idle, acceleration, etc.), and will start with just a touch of the button after warmed up like just after getting gas. I'm used to it, but seeing how that one started so easy I'm wondering if there is anything I could do to make mine start that easy. Thanks love the channel.
Excellent presentation
thats really not how you should adjust the valve clearance on an oil head , you should do all 4 at the same time , because what you so on the exhaust side will effect what happens on the intake side and vice versa , you need to go and have a look at some vids on here , chris harris has some good ones on the subject , but believe me , you need to look into this .
Thank you, very clear info.
Glad it was helpful!
THX for another great upload!
Glad you enjoy it!
Buen día amigo, le escribo para saber si usted me puede ayudar, tengo una BMW 850r de la nada dejo de prender ya cheque las válvulas, hay chispa, hay compresión, gas. Pero la chispa se me hace dudosa. Que crees que pueda ser?
Surprised it would start with those valve clearances, some times it feels like you can have 0,2 intake and exhaust like 0.4 and it may have problems to start and having bad idle or high rpm power loss.
It purrs like a kitten now 👍
Excellent video!
This makes me really miss my Rockster.
I always thought this was normal sound lol wow
What is the the exhaust measurement, you never indicated
wonder why they moved from easy screws adjustments to shim on newer models....
Great job educating thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Great! Thank you
How do you know the cylinder is at top dead center?
Thanks for the video - great for a simple fix.. ;)
Glad it helped
I haven't seen you putting the spark plugs back in.
That's why there was no noise.
Why is this thing running? Didn't you forget the spark plugs?
Which filler gauge did you use? 0.15 mm?
What is best method to rotate crank to TDC, rear wheel ? thanks
The crank
Great job.💪
Thank you 🙌
i hear that starter is poor. i just removed and lubed the starter on my r1150r and the noise at the start was gone.
What could have possibly caused all of that corrosion on the plugs?
Washing them, then putting them away before the water has a chance to evaporate.
Water and years combined.
Good job 👍
Thanks 👍
Awesome
Hi there viewers! I need your help with this problem. I have a r1150r 2001 with approx 100K kilometers
When running it revs and performs fine until 4500 rpm and then stalls, sometimes when I do full throotle in first gear it manages to surpass this stallment range and continues to accelerate with normal torque. Inmediatly after this, as long as the rpm's dont go below 4500 I'm able to shift to the next gears and continue accelerating to top speed. This can only be done with first gear due to its torque and rapid acceleration to surpass this gap, second gear and above don't manage to do it. In neutral it revs just fine.
Anyone have had this same problem? Thank you in advance
Now do the right side.
it was done, at the same time i was doing the left.
They also had faulty push rods and cam chain tensioners...
Soft tensioner- and rods made of aluminum with pressed chrome molly tips that tend to looses up from the rod.
There are up grades for both...
i did a video on this, check it out.
Only the leftside tensioner, the right never causes problems. Some pushrods had problems, not every 1150 made these irritating pushrod noises
@@dvdh4937 Agreed -
Just mine lol....
Thanks !
Damn had too switch off after super super. I have to switch off when I hear the word super used unnecessarily before a word that already works fine. Like rusty and super rusty.
Yeah, no way did the dealership recently change those plugs. That dealership needs to be outed as they are scamming their customers.
The plugs are old. Yet again, another example of a dealership conn!
They should have hydraulic valve adjustment. One less thing to do.
One more to fail 😂😂😂