Dude you have to start a podcast. I think I would listen at least 12 hours a day. You are super funny, the fact that you always give it to us straight and raw it’s awesome 🤩
To listen to a brilliant mind speak it is an absolute honor Patrick. From the bottom of my heart and im sure I say it for those who havent found their voice yet as well, Thank You so very much for your countless efforts making"stuff" better you are refreshing, unique and one of a kind and I appreciate you greatly!
This was a awesome video . Learning about all those differences on the group coils an how the are wired , would love to hear a follow up video on some of your ideas, you have on those changes , also how does the flat wound fit into ,any those types you had on the table. Thanks pat.
I'm pretty sure I already did a video on that there's no difference between round wire and flat wire just like there's no difference between progressive and linear spiders
Onkyo receivers are bitching. I remember there was one at goodwill when I was like 16 and didn't know anything. I didn't recognize the brand so I bought the JVC next to it and some old one I flipped lol. It worked out though, like 12 years later that JVC still works perfect and it had to be years old when I bought it for like $6??? Wild. I'm banned from goodwill now tho lol
Love these tech vids bro, I have learned so much just watching these soaking everything in, I’ve been installing car audio since the late 90’s running 1/0 cable and shit and have JUST found out that subs don’t stay at the rated Ohmage, ie: Impedance rise, I didn’t even know how shit actually works lol. Keep at it man, love this shit, can’t wait to get my Type-R 15” too ;)
I believe the same things you do. I deal with pro and car audio, and too many people do guesswork and imaginary assumptions about audio like its voodoo. I haven't lost a driver in pro use with my 208,000 watts of heavy iron crest and crown amplifiers because I looked into the material construction of the drivers (glues, formers, etc. Spider size etc.) After I moved away from cerwin Vega and jbl to RCF, precision devices - never lost a driver.
Hi Patrick, I‘ve a problem with a 15“ DVC 1,6. I wired my woofer in series to get a resistance of 3.2 ohms. One coil is broken now. My dealer told me that ist had been wrong. In series the woofer could not handle the same power because oh a higher current.flowing through the tensils / coils. It should be better to wire only in parallel. Is that correct? Thx for a answer and greetings from Germany Yours Franz
@@RobotUnderground I agree that i warnt to archive hi levels, but in my case i have 4“ coils ratet 4000 RMS. I got. my damage way under 2000, no smell. Impedance wise i drop down absolut 2,5 ohms. Imy subwoofer level control didn t show clipping.The only Thing i rebember was a knocking, i wondered why there should be a mechanical limit on los power, but imediately dropped the volume. It was mounted in a vented enclosure. That something Happening Wheel pushing hard … shit Happens. I m Interessed in your Personal opinion. I thougt that it would be no difference between series and parallel. If there ist a difference, there must bectwo different power ratings on a Lord speaker.
@@Franzifornication If you burned the leads, then you were asking too much of the sub. I see burned tinsels all the time. Typically in lower impedance subs. That's why I do a hardwiring in D1 coils and double up the leads. That way it's 2 ohm SVC but the leads are doubled up.
why not use just 1 coil? i been thinking of this for a while now, years, i am going to make a coil using 12-14 gauge copper magnet wire. but i also thought of using a bunch of small gauge too to see the difference of performance.
I want to build a sub box for music and movies. I do have room for a decent size box .I was wondering what you would use for a amp that won't break the bank and what kind of sub could you build to match .Also I'm an older guy and enjoy your videos for what thats worth. Thanks Jimmy
So if there is a 4 channel sonly subwoofer at my local goodwill can I just put all negatives and all positives to my dvc sub that only has one input? It's a cerwin Vega V122dv2 so it doesn't have two coil connections you just flip the ting and it changes from four ohm to one ohm. If it is an 8 ohm amplifier and I put the sub in 1 ohm mode what will my final impedance be? What about in 4 ohm mode? Obviously I need a low pass filter? Would I splice them all into one negative and one positive hook up to the low pass filter then hook the sub up? What low pass filter specs would I need?
Hi Patrick, l have a question about coil rubbing. I’ve got an Altec 416 8a that needed a full recone/coil job so I bought a kit from a company and installed it myself. Actually 2 woofers & kits. One, the first one turned out just fine. I somehow screwed up the second job, maybe being too cocky. So now the coil slightly rubs and I don’t want to spend more money on a third kit that l may screw up again. Do you have a suggestion or trick on how to realign the coil in the most least invasive possible? Love the show & really enjoy your stories but, most of all I appreciate your willingness to help out the less fortunate. I like your attitude and outlook on life. Very inspiring. Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.
You'll need to reclaim / harvest the coil by removing the soft parts.. But that's only if you're able to recover the cone as well. Personally, that's one of the reasons why I got into selling and flipping audio. It pays for all kinds of projects I didn't want to pay for. Those subs are very old and terrible. I'd recommend getting them magnetized again if you plan on keeping them. If not, I really recommend just replacing them with something modern. Don't believe all the fandom about old equipment. If it was so great, why don't they make it anymore or copy it?? I'm VERY AWARE that my words may seem cruel or insane to a collector. They're not. That's the voice of reason and logic.
@@RobotUnderground Someone suggested I heat the fibreglass former and ever so slightly distort or out-of-round the coil. I did try applying pressure to 2 sides of it and it does work but I’m not so sure if heating the fibreglass will hold a new sort of oblong memory. If I can fix the problem I’ll sell the pair and get something more modern. Any replacement suggestions with a higher frequency top end so I can make a 15” 2-way?
@@nelsondog100 I'd shim them firmly and try the heat gun thing as a last resort. Really you just want them back into round.. (if that's the problem). The gap might also have some debris, you never know.
Great video, sometimes u just got to try a subwoofer out and not pay attention to manufacturer specs cause most of the time the specs are not correct anyway...In my opinion skar EVL are a great subwoofer especially for the price point..But alot of people talk so much shit about them saying motor force is weak...Well ive had 2 EVL-18 for 3 years now and they have not let me down and they love them lows! 2 diamond audio des1000.1 1 amp per sub and they move some air!
@@RobotUnderground never mind I get it my comment on value is a shit comment.My bad I did not mean anything negative in my comment, I've always and will always only say what I consider as positive or rude but I apologize for any offense, was not intentional
I possibly didn't understand but what determines the coils impededance? The diameter of the wire and amount of turns? What keeps the SPL based companies from making 8 layer super low impededance coils that are ran in series and sold as single 1 ohm subs since it seems all modern amps are 1 ohm stables
Typically laziness and supply. There already proven remedies for bass. Tried and true, running D2 coils in parallel makes bass. (If it ain't broke) The other thing is supply. China already has them made, why rock the boat? Also, China doesn't like changes and they typically make you pay through the nose for "making" them work harder.. That goes back to laziness. China is also lazy in some respects.
An electromagnet gets its strength from the number of turns. DC resistance is only a matter of coil material, wire gauge, and length of wire used in the coil, impedance (what your amp "sees") at any given frequency is dependent on many other variables of that coil's relationship to the motor, physical/mechanical properties of the softparts, and then the relationship of that in a box +with the ports THEN also the relationship with the air/acoustic environment of the room/vehicle you put it in. Google "loudspeaker box as a circuit" to see which elements act as resistors, capacitors, and inductors in the "circuit", this is what Thiele/Small equations are designed to predict and explain. Using large gauge wire will either sacrifice turns or require too-large gap, and the size of the gap is inverse square relationship to magnetic force so you will ALWAYS lose way more force than you gain by widening the gap to accommodate larger coil. On the other end, too small gauge wire with a shitload of turns will also have very high resistance and may be prone to failure at the coil leads. I would suggest that we are where we are with industry standards because everything else has been tried and tested and the things we're doing now are the best compromise to meet a variety of design goals. As to why nobody makes single 1 ohm coil, not everybody runs just one woofer, not everybody runs 1 ohm stable amps, and not everybody runs only 1 amp per woofer. A driver with two DVC options can, more or less, get to the same place as 8 single coil options so that means manufacturers, wholesalers, and retailers can offer a solution to customers with 1/4 of the cost and space tied up in inventory.
Not sure about that. The Immortal is pretty tall and would need a taller former. Now you can change frames on that thing and use a normal frame and possibly use the quad coil but I'd need to know the gap dims.
Even when I competted, I never wired past 1 ohm. Well, before I was knowledgable I did a few times. I've never liked the way as they say now "roll into it" because they wired to .25 ohm and they need the box rise to go louder. It's stupid.
Okay. I've watched about a dozen of your videos now and I've gotta ask. What is your personal or professional opinion of Audiopipe. Mainly one sub in particular, the TXX-BDC2-12 dual 4ohm. If you feel like it. Thanks man.
I have been a massive JL bro for most of my life. Just recently been trying to branch out lol. Would love to have you build me a pair of badass 10s if possible!? Been watching all your videos lately and love them! Let me know how I can get in contact or place an order somehow. Thanks! I
I started out building my own skateboard ramps because I was always bigger than the other kids and then when I moved to Mesa I started building speaker boxes because all the speaker boxes were shitty and weak so I started building strong speaker boxes and then I started reading the loudspeaker cookbook and I learned a lot
Text me some side pictures of it 602-312-6504 let me know your name and your shipping address and I'll add you to the phone and we can go over your options
I'm a newer subscriber and absolutely love all of your content 👍 but on your VC topic I have a question : why home theatre audio uses such large coils versus car audio I've seen as big as 10" voice coils in home audio I have asked this question before on other people's channels and haven't really gotten Any kind of decent answer... just wanted to know The pros and cons
It's a gimmick. You have to understand that home audio is VERY old. It's what car audio is based on. The home theater market is also ripe with old dudes with money so you have to make something really "special" to get their attention. It's not any better, just different. The problem with those big coils is service and expense. They cost too much and when they die or you kill them, they have you by the short hairs. That's another reason I've been a fan of DIY. Learn, ready, study and experiment to create your own deluxe setup for a fraction of the price.
I am wet behind the ears especially subwoofer building as I am just doing research now to build 2 18" hdx3 motor and baskets ive obtained (Any info i'm all ears, I would like more mass to play 20hz-30hz) anyway I came in through the back door because I could not justify the price of these high watt amplifiers so I did the only logical thing and spent ten fold more on equipment to learn how to repair amplifiers.....(yes now I have plenty of 4500-12k amplifiers lol) A little off topic (of course you know nothing about rambling on and going off topic......you? Nooooo! haha) but my back story to come back around to I would love to hear about amplifiers doing the same power at 2ohm as it does 1ohm... Not debate, seriously want to hear it. I don't clamp my amps, the amp changes too much, I throw them in my truck to stress test always at 1ohm. I have no basis to say one way or another. I have this I'd like to ask; when tuning a amplifier, if you use a oscope do you drive a sine wave? If so, to what the box tuning should peak at or just 40hz or another everytime? With the amplifier loaded or sub disconnected?I'm sure you know but fun one if not, you can drive a squarewave into a amplifier and it will be a perfect sine wave out! (always a fun one to ruffle up the "know it alls")
Unfortunetly I can't read copious amounts of information about 1 thing in the same place. I just don't learn anything that way. I apppreciate it and I will probably buy it, but never read it, skim it a couple times and in the abyss of shit I have around. I will atempt I asure you. Do you sell soft parts? or have a specific place for product you do sell? I didn't see much, offerup and here and there on FB
14:10 serious talk... Shit heads Blowing up thier own stuff ..... And then blaming you!! Sorry, they do that... Who is that "T-low" dude you keep taking about?
How can i talk to you about a new coil for my phosgate T1 15? I would love to rebuild it. Awesome fucking videos by the way! I'm addicted, better than cocaine and hookers! I love hearing your knowledge about everything car audio, keep it up please.
Dude you have to start a podcast. I think I would listen at least 12 hours a day. You are super funny, the fact that you always give it to us straight and raw it’s awesome 🤩
Would love to if I had the time. Maybe you guys can help take the burden from me as well as the benefits.
To listen to a brilliant mind speak it is an absolute honor Patrick.
From the bottom of my heart and im sure I say it for those who havent found their voice yet as well, Thank You so very much for your countless efforts making"stuff" better you are refreshing, unique and one of a kind and I appreciate you greatly!
Wow, thank you
This was a awesome video . Learning about all those differences on the group coils an how the are wired , would love to hear a follow up video on some of your ideas, you have on those changes , also how does the flat wound fit into ,any those types you had on the table. Thanks pat.
I'm pretty sure I already did a video on that there's no difference between round wire and flat wire just like there's no difference between progressive and linear spiders
I do the same with old radios I come across. I got a wall full of stacked onkyo’s. I try to get the 150+ rms per channel ones
Onkyo receivers are bitching. I remember there was one at goodwill when I was like 16 and didn't know anything. I didn't recognize the brand so I bought the JVC next to it and some old one I flipped lol. It worked out though, like 12 years later that JVC still works perfect and it had to be years old when I bought it for like $6??? Wild. I'm banned from goodwill now tho lol
Really wanting to start building and you,sir, are an inspiration! Killer work!
This is why I love pat he's been 100 all the time and the Info is priceless.
I bought the loud speaker cook book at radio shack back in the 90s. Best book I ever read. Might be the the only book I've ever read! 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Lol. There's other books out there.
Love your videos. Not scared to tell people how it is. Keep it up man.
I appreciate that!
Love these tech vids bro, I have learned so much just watching these soaking everything in, I’ve been installing car audio since the late 90’s running 1/0 cable and shit and have JUST found out that subs don’t stay at the rated Ohmage, ie: Impedance rise, I didn’t even know how shit actually works lol. Keep at it man, love this shit, can’t wait to get my Type-R 15” too ;)
Love the info. Keep the vids coming I’ll keep watching and building.
I believe the same things you do. I deal with pro and car audio, and too many people do guesswork and imaginary assumptions about audio like its voodoo. I haven't lost a driver in pro use with my 208,000 watts of heavy iron crest and crown amplifiers because I looked into the material construction of the drivers (glues, formers, etc. Spider size etc.) After I moved away from cerwin Vega and jbl to RCF, precision devices - never lost a driver.
Great info on wiring up to get better BL. Fascinating stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Patrick,
I‘ve a problem with a 15“ DVC 1,6. I wired my woofer in series to get a resistance of 3.2 ohms. One coil is broken now. My dealer told me that ist had been wrong. In series the woofer could not handle the same power because oh a higher current.flowing through the tensils / coils. It should be better to wire only in parallel. Is that correct?
Thx for a answer and greetings from Germany
Yours Franz
No, that's not correct but if you're pushing the sub that hard, you're going to kill something no matter what.
@@RobotUnderground I agree that i warnt to archive hi levels, but in my case i have 4“ coils ratet 4000 RMS. I got. my damage way under 2000, no smell. Impedance wise i drop down absolut 2,5 ohms. Imy subwoofer level control didn t show clipping.The only Thing i rebember was a knocking, i wondered why there should be a mechanical limit on los power, but imediately dropped the volume. It was mounted in a vented enclosure.
That something Happening Wheel pushing hard … shit Happens. I m Interessed in your Personal opinion. I thougt that it would be no difference between series and parallel. If there ist a difference, there must bectwo different power ratings on a Lord speaker.
@@Franzifornication Not in a coil suspended in a magnetic gap. When it's in a gap, it's not a coil any more... of sorts.
@@RobotUnderground the coil Looks fine.. no overheating, no smell…je Mäntel the lesds between
@@Franzifornication If you burned the leads, then you were asking too much of the sub. I see burned tinsels all the time. Typically in lower impedance subs. That's why I do a hardwiring in D1 coils and double up the leads. That way it's 2 ohm SVC but the leads are doubled up.
why not use just 1 coil? i been thinking of this for a while now, years, i am going to make a coil using 12-14 gauge copper magnet wire. but i also thought of using a bunch of small gauge too to see the difference of performance.
I want to build a sub box for music and movies. I do have room for a decent size box .I was wondering what you would use for a amp that won't break the bank and what kind of sub could you build to match .Also I'm an older guy and enjoy your videos for what thats worth. Thanks Jimmy
Pick up a heavy receiver from Goodwill for no more than $40.
So if there is a 4 channel sonly subwoofer at my local goodwill can I just put all negatives and all positives to my dvc sub that only has one input? It's a cerwin Vega V122dv2 so it doesn't have two coil connections you just flip the ting and it changes from four ohm to one ohm. If it is an 8 ohm amplifier and I put the sub in 1 ohm mode what will my final impedance be? What about in 4 ohm mode? Obviously I need a low pass filter? Would I splice them all into one negative and one positive hook up to the low pass filter then hook the sub up? What low pass filter specs would I need?
Some of those are BS. I've seen the same thing on Kicker. All it does is disconnect one coil. Text me direct with pics. 6023126504
Great video!
Hi Patrick, l have a question about coil rubbing. I’ve got an Altec 416 8a that needed a full recone/coil job so I bought a kit from a company and installed it myself. Actually 2 woofers & kits. One, the first one turned out just fine. I somehow screwed up the second job, maybe being too cocky. So now the coil slightly rubs and I don’t want to spend more money on a third kit that l may screw up again. Do you have a suggestion or trick on how to realign the coil in the most least invasive possible?
Love the show & really enjoy your stories but, most of all I appreciate your willingness to help out the less fortunate. I like your attitude and outlook on life. Very inspiring. Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.
You'll need to reclaim / harvest the coil by removing the soft parts.. But that's only if you're able to recover the cone as well. Personally, that's one of the reasons why I got into selling and flipping audio. It pays for all kinds of projects I didn't want to pay for. Those subs are very old and terrible. I'd recommend getting them magnetized again if you plan on keeping them. If not, I really recommend just replacing them with something modern. Don't believe all the fandom about old equipment. If it was so great, why don't they make it anymore or copy it?? I'm VERY AWARE that my words may seem cruel or insane to a collector. They're not. That's the voice of reason and logic.
@@RobotUnderground Someone suggested I heat the fibreglass former and ever so slightly distort or out-of-round the coil. I did try applying pressure to 2 sides of it and it does work but I’m not so sure if heating the fibreglass will hold a new sort of oblong memory. If I can fix the problem I’ll sell the pair and get something more modern. Any replacement suggestions with a higher frequency top end so I can make a 15” 2-way?
@@nelsondog100 I'd shim them firmly and try the heat gun thing as a last resort. Really you just want them back into round.. (if that's the problem). The gap might also have some debris, you never know.
Great video, sometimes u just got to try a subwoofer out and not pay attention to manufacturer specs cause most of the time the specs are not correct anyway...In my opinion skar EVL are a great subwoofer especially for the price point..But alot of people talk so much shit about them saying motor force is weak...Well ive had 2 EVL-18 for 3 years now and they have not let me down and they love them lows! 2 diamond audio des1000.1 1 amp per sub and they move some air!
Just make notes on whom is making shit comments on high value
@@RobotUnderground I'm confused lol..what do mean comments on high value?
@@RobotUnderground never mind I get it my comment on value is a shit comment.My bad I did not mean anything negative in my comment, I've always and will always only say what I consider as positive or rude but I apologize for any offense, was not intentional
great video ...
I possibly didn't understand but what determines the coils impededance? The diameter of the wire and amount of turns? What keeps the SPL based companies from making 8 layer super low impededance coils that are ran in series and sold as single 1 ohm subs since it seems all modern amps are 1 ohm stables
Typically laziness and supply. There already proven remedies for bass. Tried and true, running D2 coils in parallel makes bass. (If it ain't broke) The other thing is supply. China already has them made, why rock the boat? Also, China doesn't like changes and they typically make you pay through the nose for "making" them work harder.. That goes back to laziness. China is also lazy in some respects.
An electromagnet gets its strength from the number of turns. DC resistance is only a matter of coil material, wire gauge, and length of wire used in the coil, impedance (what your amp "sees") at any given frequency is dependent on many other variables of that coil's relationship to the motor, physical/mechanical properties of the softparts, and then the relationship of that in a box +with the ports THEN also the relationship with the air/acoustic environment of the room/vehicle you put it in. Google "loudspeaker box as a circuit" to see which elements act as resistors, capacitors, and inductors in the "circuit", this is what Thiele/Small equations are designed to predict and explain.
Using large gauge wire will either sacrifice turns or require too-large gap, and the size of the gap is inverse square relationship to magnetic force so you will ALWAYS lose way more force than you gain by widening the gap to accommodate larger coil.
On the other end, too small gauge wire with a shitload of turns will also have very high resistance and may be prone to failure at the coil leads.
I would suggest that we are where we are with industry standards because everything else has been tried and tested and the things we're doing now are the best compromise to meet a variety of design goals.
As to why nobody makes single 1 ohm coil, not everybody runs just one woofer, not everybody runs 1 ohm stable amps, and not everybody runs only 1 amp per woofer. A driver with two DVC options can, more or less, get to the same place as 8 single coil options so that means manufacturers, wholesalers, and retailers can offer a solution to customers with 1/4 of the cost and space tied up in inventory.
if their was a solid gold woofer that did 200db with a 4 watt amplifier.....the worldwide total sales would be = 0. ZERO......
If I lived closer I would come work for ya and Learn something form you I love building subs but I don’t know a lot
So that quad coil was whats in the audiobahn immortal quad coil 15
Not sure about that. The Immortal is pretty tall and would need a taller former. Now you can change frames on that thing and use a normal frame and possibly use the quad coil but I'd need to know the gap dims.
yes.
I jist looked at rje specs on one of my subs and says bl 19.37 i have no clue 😅
Yeah that's pretty good
Even when I competted, I never wired past 1 ohm. Well, before I was knowledgable I did a few times. I've never liked the way as they say now "roll into it" because they wired to .25 ohm and they need the box rise to go louder. It's stupid.
Were those some Atomic motors on the white 4 spoke baskets on your bench?
Actually, never mind lol. I just saw the video on the Atomic motors.
ruclips.net/video/f-qbBNLHg3E/видео.html
Let’s talk LMT technology and LMS coils
I'll see if I can do a video about it today.
Nooo, get “sciency”. That’s what I want.
Tune in tomorrow for the live stream
Okay. I've watched about a dozen of your videos now and I've gotta ask. What is your personal or professional opinion of Audiopipe. Mainly one sub in particular, the TXX-BDC2-12 dual 4ohm. If you feel like it. Thanks man.
Meh, I can make you something custom for the same $130 shipped.
I have been a massive JL bro for most of my life. Just recently been trying to branch out lol. Would love to have you build me a pair of badass 10s if possible!? Been watching all your videos lately and love them! Let me know how I can get in contact or place an order somehow. Thanks! I
How u get started doing this
I started out building my own skateboard ramps because I was always bigger than the other kids and then when I moved to Mesa I started building speaker boxes because all the speaker boxes were shitty and weak so I started building strong speaker boxes and then I started reading the loudspeaker cookbook and I learned a lot
I have a Directed Comp X 15D4 that needs help, is it worth helping?
Text me some side pictures of it 602-312-6504 let me know your name and your shipping address and I'll add you to the phone and we can go over your options
I'm a newer subscriber and absolutely love all of your content 👍 but on your VC topic I have a question : why home theatre audio uses such large coils versus car audio I've seen as big as 10" voice coils in home audio I have asked this question before on other people's channels and haven't really gotten Any kind of decent answer... just wanted to know The pros and cons
It's a gimmick. You have to understand that home audio is VERY old. It's what car audio is based on. The home theater market is also ripe with old dudes with money so you have to make something really "special" to get their attention. It's not any better, just different. The problem with those big coils is service and expense. They cost too much and when they die or you kill them, they have you by the short hairs. That's another reason I've been a fan of DIY. Learn, ready, study and experiment to create your own deluxe setup for a fraction of the price.
That i heard right, 4 times with covid?i though that once you get it,dont get it again..
Your technically supposed to be immune after but some peoples immune systems never really fight it I guess I'm no doctor
@@SaltwaterBoogeyman nope u can get it every 120 days what the doctor told my friend at work!!
@@paulcherry1520 that’s very specific number my friends dr cousins aunt told me. Yeah ok buddy do your own research
The military is releasing "new" virus variants, thats why people keep getting sick again....
I am wet behind the ears especially subwoofer building as I am just doing research now to build 2 18" hdx3 motor and baskets ive obtained (Any info i'm all ears, I would like more mass to play 20hz-30hz) anyway I came in through the back door because I could not justify the price of these high watt amplifiers so I did the only logical thing and spent ten fold more on equipment to learn how to repair amplifiers.....(yes now I have plenty of 4500-12k amplifiers lol)
A little off topic (of course you know nothing about rambling on and going off topic......you? Nooooo! haha) but my back story to come back around to I would love to hear about amplifiers doing the same power at 2ohm as it does 1ohm... Not debate, seriously want to hear it. I don't clamp my amps, the amp changes too much, I throw them in my truck to stress test always at 1ohm. I have no basis to say one way or another.
I have this I'd like to ask; when tuning a amplifier, if you use a oscope do you drive a sine wave? If so, to what the box tuning should peak at or just 40hz or another everytime? With the amplifier loaded or sub disconnected?I'm sure you know but fun one if not, you can drive a squarewave into a amplifier and it will be a perfect sine wave out! (always a fun one to ruffle up the "know it alls")
I suggest reading, "The Loudspeaker Cookbook", for starters. As for 20-30hz, I suggest large amounts of displacement and heavy subwoofers.
Unfortunetly I can't read copious amounts of information about 1 thing in the same place. I just don't learn anything that way. I apppreciate it and I will probably buy it, but never read it, skim it a couple times and in the abyss of shit I have around. I will atempt I asure you.
Do you sell soft parts? or have a specific place for product you do sell? I didn't see much, offerup and here and there on FB
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 Yes, pallets of parts. Just make a list and text me direct, 6023126504
I need a 6 ohm sub for my Sony home theater
Text me direct. 6023126504
14:10 serious talk... Shit heads Blowing up thier own stuff ..... And then blaming you!! Sorry, they do that... Who is that "T-low" dude you keep taking about?
Thilo Stompler ruclips.net/video/zrNVjeQdGIQ/видео.html
How can i talk to you about a new coil for my phosgate T1 15? I would love to rebuild it. Awesome fucking videos by the way! I'm addicted, better than cocaine and hookers! I love hearing your knowledge about everything car audio, keep it up please.
Just text direct with your name, 6023126504
Dhd audio subs baskets
Send a link.