I DIY'd a Sewing Pattern Using an Antique Victorian Bodice Using Historic Techniques (fail?)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Have you ever bitten off more than you could chew? Decided to make what should be an "easy" project more difficult because...well...because? I did. 😂 Today, I attempt to pull a sewing pattern from one of my original Victorian/Edwardian bodices, using two different methods, one of which is taken from an 1890s dressmaking manual.
It wasn't easy, but I do think mixing the methods with some good ol' fashioned measuring and plotting on graph paper will result in a workable sewing pattern in the future. I'm planning on sewing both of these patterns up into quick mock-ups to see how the patterns compare to the original Victorian bodice, probably in the next month or so - so stay tuned!
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Imagine how thrilled the lady who made this would be to know that over a hundred years later, someone would be trying to copy her garment!
Whenever I am learning something new, my process is like:
1. no, there's no way I can do this
2. okay, I think I could potentially do this
3. I will try it on this thing I feel motivated about *doesn't check difficulty level*
4. okay, this is hard but I kind of get it
5. o h g o d
6. fumbling my way through.... something like the original intent
7. rest
8. return and realize that what I did want as bad as I thought and also I learned five new things that weren't even on my radar when I started
9. my brain integrates everything from this project and I see where to grow next
10. I have a project I'm motivated to work on and I have gained Skills and Confidence and Experience
so definitely not a fail at all!!!!
8 literally just happened. Blegh I feel stupid 😂
My Nana (who was born in 1918) used to pin patterns from existing garments out of tissue paper. She had many pinning hams that she had made in all kinds of sizes and shapes to pin garments to. She was a wonderful seamstress. My brother and I used to play with the pinning hams, building weird cities with them and the couch cushions when we visited her when we were little kids.
I was wondering how people get patterns from their historical garments without picking them apart, so this was very enlightening. Thanks for struggling for us ;P
Welcome to my struggle bus, there's AC & wifi 😂❤️
@@AbbyCox How many passengers can you take with you? lol
@@AbbyCox mine's got chocolate, coffee, green tea, cool ranch doritos and fireball. :}
@@AbbyCox And puppy dog tails!
@@Trufriend61 well at least 57k 😂
Actually, my portuguese grand-mother was taught around 1955 about this kind of ancient technique by her grand-mother and, after, at school . She makes try with paper too, because at this time in Portugal, fabric was kind of expensive for a poor farmer's girl. Watching video with grand-mothers around is a good idea ^^'
I love how many seamstresses back then pretended, poorly, to be French because they were considered to be more stylish.
I've learnt the tissue paper technique in costume school except we were using a fine toile which makes it easier because tissue paper doesn't behave the same way as fabric does. Also I was taught to run a thread on each piece of the garment to mark the grainline and align it to the toile's grainline. what's great with using toile is that once you've marked the seams with a pencil it's easy to flaten the fabric and clean up the lines with a ruler or a french curve and you can directly alter the pattern to your measures
Thanks for the great advice.
I learned using a piece of (silk) organza so you can see through it, but really any type of woven would be preferable to tissue paper
I am in the process of doing this right now (also on an Edwardian bodice), except with organza as mentioned in another comment. Being able to see through it and match the grainline has been really helpful! Also, I put the bodice on a dress form to do this bc it's stable enough to go on a form. So far I've got the front and back done, but I still have the sleeves (which I'm semi-scared about) and the interior bodice to do. I might do more of the first/pin method for the interior though.
I did too. we used really cheap fabric and made sure to straighten the grainline. it made life a lot easier.
I think no one should question why someone is not creating content on RUclips during 2020. We are all going stir crazy isolating, worried about a plague, with everyone's financial means to get by going to shit and a lot of people are in danger whilst protesting police violence. There really could not be more reasons to like, need a mental health break. If you need one, take one.
Brilliant attempt! Fatigue is no joke, my friend, and it is one cause of a thing we spoonies refer to as “brain fog.” It’s like being brain fried on steroids. Self care is vitally important, so if you ever need to take a break or delay posting, please do so. RUclipsr and other self-employed badasses are allowed sick/mental health days, too. I’d really love to see how each version mocked-up. Could you cut each piece larger and drape it into its correct position on a dress form? I’m just guessing.
Thank you for sharing this attempt with us. It is MOST appreciated as it may lead to a pattern for that gorgeous bodice!! Also, your outtakes at the end of each video never fail to crack me up, which is always appreciated. Be well, and I hope you have a restful week!!
Yes! I think just *everything* from the past few months finally caught up with me, and I'm just feeling it now. Luckily, I filmed next week's video last week, I have a schedule through October of what needs to be released/filmed etc., so I can be more strategic in my filming. So, the good news is, is that I can take tomorrow & even Tuesday off if I need to. 🎉 Lots of rest and horizontal time on my sofa is on the agenda! ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Oh dear Lord. I laughed my panties right into the washer. Only because I just finished doing exactly the same thing. But I was trying to make a pattern of my sister's dearly loved, but torn, muumuu that she had inherited it from her late mother-in-law. Early in the video I'm thinking "Why doesn't she try something easier for her first time??"
And, at least she's not wrestling 6 yards of fabric.
@@AbbyCox good! please rest and take care of yourself! we'll all be here when you get back, happy to see you. not unlike your precious pups.
Oh no! I've "never" bitten off more than I can chew....ever! *please tell me you noted the rather large dose of sarcasm in that statement! LOL My very first cross stitch project was a complex wedding sampler, on 32 count linen! My very first custom cosplay order was Deadpool! The client wanted it to look exactly like the movie version, which I learned was two piece and not a bodysuit! Both the client and myself were thrilled with the results but boy-o-boy were my nerves threadbare by the end of it! lol
Holy shit! My first cross stich project were two freaking strawberries on a dish cloth for my grandma, who taught me.
I would love to see you actually make a garment from the table pin method and one from the tissue paper method maybe not this bodice lol just see to see how different those tiny changes can make to the garment.
This was such a cool idea. I've tried copying modern clothes from my closet (with varying degrees of success), but I haven't given much thought to how you could copy older clothes.
Makes me feel much better about, when I was wondering if I could copy a dress from one of my favourite companies, (they have been making the same shape, with fun fabric, for years, but discontinued...) asked friends who sew, and the universal reply was "don't bother, it's difficult, just find a pattern that is about the same shape instead". That was the first garment I made during lockdown. In dinosaur cotton jersey, naturally!
I've just realized you remind me of a combination of Bernadette Banner and Rachel Maksy and I don't hate it.
When you said "Look at me picking out the hardest thing to do right off the bat," I reaaaaally felt that. My entire sewing journey has been that exact sensation
This video is awesome. I don’t know about anyone else, but I appreciate the candor about your struggle. It would have been easy to pretend it did not exist. I feel frustrated at how much I struggle with sewing in general, and it makes me feel better knowing that no....sewing is just hard and everyone has thier struggle points. I am encouraged to go easier on myself. 😁 Thank you so much for sharing with us. I hope you get the rest you need.
Now I am kinda curious what would happen if you sew blouses from this patterns, how would they be different from original.
That's my plan! I just need to get the sleeves sorted out and then see what happens! Another video -- (hopefully) 😊
I love the candid reel at the end. Makes your personality shine so wonderfully.
The honesty in this video was so gratifying. I've definitely done the "bitten off more I can chew" with ambitious projects and having someone with more experience than me be honest about it made my day. Thanks Abby!
This is incredibly helpful - I foresee repeatedly coming back to this to learn. I'm echoing the 'thanks for struggling for us' sentiment - you're awesome, Abby! Don't burn yourself out on our behalf.
Seeing these two techniques was so interesting! I have pieces in my wardrobe that I want to reproduce myself, though mine are modern (mostly skirts).
Also, trying new techniques on a complicated piece is soooooooo something I would do. (hugs)
And I feel you on the brain jello. Mine has been in that state on a regular basis for the past few months.
I can't wait to see the rest of the project unfold! It's going to be fascinating! No matter how close you get to the original, it will be a great top!!
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Ah, in which Abby adds one more thing to the list of sewing related things NOT to do when you are tired. I am indeed shocked that you have never done a pattern tracing before. You are a brave, brave, (crazy) girl for trying this for the first time while filming. This is another one for the SEWING IS HARD pile. I had no idea that they were encouraging women to copy their favorite clothing back then. Stick with it! You can do this, Abby! Try it again when you are well rested -- and just a little caffeinated, cuz trust me, you can be too jazzed up to do this, too. Can't wait for the mock-ups. LOVE YOU! Stay well!
The scissors used to cut out the tissue paper look like my good sewing scissors, and watching Abby cut paper with them really stresses me out lol.
Very timely for me as I've been wanting to pull a pattern off of one of my great great grandmother's dresses! Thank you!
Very interesting seeing the two different methods side by side. Friday we got a new kitten to add to the family and she seems to have loved this video as well. Especially when you were on screen. Her name is Harriet (my husband named her and it's better then the 1st choice). Till next week.
I find that whenever I get stuck with my sewing project and feel like I'm super fatigued, having a nap and coming back to it really helps! Have a nap Abby! X
This! Take a nap when you are that tired. It makes a huge difference both to your project and your mental health.
new tradition is sewing while watching your videos every sunday.
Abby I teach how to take patterns off an existing garment and I want to add that the combo of laying flat and drawing around or pinning through AND measuring the bejeezus out of it is best. We actually do the tissue on top while flat, so somewhere in between. Measuring is essential - every little bit. With darts and pleats you measure how deep they are and tall, and use that measurement to move or pivot the garment to draw the other side. The pinning in the round is interesting definitely and probably easier on a cushion so you don't prick the heck out of your leg!
holy hell, watching the 1890s technique work for the dart was MINDBLOWING. I've struggled for ages to get my darts right when trying to pattern from bodices, I absolutely have to try this method! Thank you so much for this
At other stores those clover pins are the "Patchwork - extra fine" clover pins. They also do Patchwork regular, quilting fine and quilting regular. The Patchwork extra fine pins are the bomb! I love them and they are one of thinnest pins on the market. It makes me happy to see you recommend them because I think more people should learn the delicate ease of a 0.4mm pin width.
Thank you for including two methods. I hope you get some well earned rest very soon.
Yesterday I was on the couch *all* day and it was fantastic! Today is much of the same, and then it's back to it next week! ❤️❤️❤️
I love glass headed pins! If you run over them with the sewing machine, they snap without damaging the fabric. Thank you for this, especially your honesty. You look really great for being so tired, LOL! 😻
Picking the most difficult entry point to a new skill? Oh girlfriend...I can relate. Thanks for the realness. It would have been easy to just nope out, but you did the thing!
Watching your videos is the best part of my week. I bought The American Duchess pattern for 18th century underclothing and will be trying my hand at historical clothing. Watching your attempts at patterning historical clothing has given me a tiny confidence boost. I can't wait to see what you do this week!
This is great! I have an Edwardian lace blouse that I’ve wanted to copy for ages!
Honestly was surprised how well both methods produced pieces that made sense. I hope you are planning another video sewing these patterns up for comparison.
At this point I think it is safe to say most of us stop by to see what your descent into madness looks like this week. Crazy hair mania did not disappoint 😹😹😹. Have a great week!
Just came here to say, you're a very funny and charming RUclipsr Abby. I love your editing style and the quirky meme references. You're doing a fantastic job.
All that being said, gurl, schedule time to take care of yourself. Give yourself a "weekend".
Don't burn yourself out. We are all here for you ♡
My very first sewing projects that I ever attempted and decided I was going to use to "learn how to sew" was a women's tuxedo tailcoat and a 1890s corset, so I understand picking the most difficult piece in existence to learn how to do something.
This is a wonderful video and I can't wait to see how the patterns turn out when it comes to construction!
Just a tip for remembering where to point for linking a video in the i cards is the letter L. L for link and L for left, so always point with the left hand.
Whooooa! When worlds collide: I just yesterday made a drawstring gift bag from your tutorial. Worked great -- thanks for your good work!
@@beth7467 That is so awesome! I would love to see a pic of your bag :)
@@Whitney_Sews I could email you a pic. Send email please. :)
When you were frustrated by the difficulty of the bodice, I thought, rather sarcastically, she should've started with Memaw. Grandma's spirit will help you!
I don’t know a pinch about pulling patterns, so when I watched the first method I thought, “geez this looks complicated, I would just use tissue paper and pin it to the underside of the garment and cut the patterns that way...” Next thing I know your getting crazy with the tissue paper! Thank you for giving me a moment to feel validated in what is my usual backwoods-MacGyver way of doing things. You can take the girl out of the 1890’s, but you can’t take the 1890’s out of the girl I guess 😹
What is a backwoods MacGyver method but a technique by another name?
And to think how hard I struggled to get a pattern off my kameez (basically a slightly shaped tunic, one piece front, one piece back, and sleeves, no darts. And here you are with an 1890’s fitted bodice with complex sleeves and darts and boning, etc. I’m on my third pattern and 2-3 mock-up adjustments and still haven’t got it quite right. I’m amazed at how skilled you are at this. I can’t wait to see how it turns out.
This video is so cool!!! Thank you for giving yourself some regrets, because it made for some wonderful content and hopefully some day some beautiful patterns.
Also, the music in this video is just stunning
Laval is actually a real French (nobility if I'm not mistaken) name. I'm French Canadian and we have a rather big city named that way right next to Montreal, Quebec 😀
Interesting! Adding this to the skill set. Realizing I can be a lot more 'freeform' with patterning, less dependent on commercial patterns, and much more able to replicate the clothes I already own and like to wear. Thanks!!
Note: I am an utterly neophyte sewer. That out of the way, any chance that second "pattern piece" on the sleeve is an alteration/insert?
Insert clueless, yet interested, look here.
Historical Clothing-nerd here☺️
Sleeves back then normally consisted of 2 pattern pieces - one for the overarm and one for the underarm(hope i get the terms right) (except for simple garments like shifts) they were much more shaped back then than today. I do belive the 2-pice pattern is used today, but much more rarely. Hope this answer your question☺️
I am renovating my workshop and getting a new cutting table and that cork board-esque topper is a great idea!
I love that bodice soooooo much so I'm glad you tried with it and gave me an amazing idea. I have a 40's style dress I bought 3 kids ago lol and I ain't getting back into it lol so I might have to try one of these methods and then make it fit me!!!!
I think the sewing manual looks like a better way. I'm going to download the manual to my drive. I love reading how they worded things. I enjoyed watching you go through the steps. I bet this technique would work for garments of any era.
I love pattern duplication. I learned the flat pinning method at school and it has worked well with everything I've tried it on. It is harder when there are pleats or gathered, but still possible.
I like the very nerdy interpretation of "fun". 😁 Using an actual victorian technique for that. 👍
If you want to see which one is most accurate, try taping the pieces together and folding up the darts, to see which one lines up best and has the best shape. Tape and paper can do wonderful things!
Hey Abby, just wanted to say you did a great job at your first try, I am looking forward to the future for this project, I think it's a beautiful idea in rediscovering how people made garments back in the old times and in a way give the original fashion garments a form of reincarnation.
watching this has honestly made me feel way less insane for custom drafting a pattern for my first ever attempt at a corset 🙃xx
Oh goodness, when you were struggling with the sleeve, Abby, I was thinking you should ask yourself, "What would Meemaw do?"
i can see each method being useful. that tissue paper method is great for more shaped garments, and that modern pinning method for flatter garments. thanks for this informative video.
Five months later I get to see you. As of this airing I want to call you jello brain or jello head. I hope you got to nap. Love watching you girl.
Your videos and editing always make my day, passing on the good vibes!
I love that blue and white striped blouse! I'm going to see if you have a video of you making it, if not I would love to see you upload one. Thanks for all the cool content you make for us!
The struggle bus is back!!! Got your card in the post this week and squealed with delight when I got it!
In all seriousness it is so helpful to see the sorts of challenges you have with this. I'm sure next time you do it you'll have learned so much from this one, even though it was challenging. Thanks for being inspiring ☺️
I spent 15 minutes chanting hamhamham in my head. So now I’m hungry and I’m cheering that you said Ham too!
But also
I’m picturing several ironing-adjacent tools in pinable materials to help with curvy projects.
The sleeve would almost require a padded ruler no bigger than a dainty wrist but somehow slippery enough to slide into arm but lightweight and pinable
Meter stick with the pinboard layer and a silk stocking on top?
Chicken cutlet /booby hams to fill in partridge bodices
And conversely, those shapes like fruit bowls /airline pillows that could cradle a bodice in the Center but be somehow slippery but grippy but pinable but not soft and not beanbag/dusty/to contaminate precious garment ...
Definitely another case like ironing where it seems simple but the more tools you can get, the more details can be cared for! Great job! Xo from Canada
Abby, I just love your videos. I’ve learned the hard way...when you’re exhausted and your patience and finesse is gone - walk away. Leave it until later, lest you wind up ripping it in half out of frustration like Hulk Hogan tearing off his T-shirt. Not that I’ve done that or anything. No, not at all.
Abby, Abby, Abby how do I start? The video production, editing or content? It's all magic. I have been dancing around my cutting table for over two weeks avoiding this very lesson. Made a vest, friend says nice, I smile n thanks. Friend then offers a box of fleece and a zipper top and do your magic. I think I ain't got no fucking magic. I got luck. So I smile and say Sure I'll make it 4 u. That was 2-3 weeks ago.
When the student is ready the teacher will appear. Thank you so much for being you. Profession and generous with your knowledge is a value I admire and appreciated. Also thanks for the links . Instructable one in fantastic. A great reminder to check the site. You Rock.
The first way you drafted the bodice pattern, using pins. I have used this to copy a favorite blouse and it worked wonderfully!
I feel this video 😆 I bit off way more than I could chew in taking a pattern from my own antique 1890s dress in my collection and... it was so rough 🤣 but it worked! (somehow). I managed to reproduce it and it's my favorite dress I've made so far. I tried it by taking measurements and "drafting"/mockups to get the right shape but I will totally try the tissue paper technique next time!
Laval is actually a French family name. If you think about it, it's also quite close to ''Lavallière'' the mistress of Louis XIV who popularized the modesty fichu at the court.
My aunts used to do something similar to this when they were young to duplicate dresses that they really liked but didn't have a pattern to create. I remember them talking about it but was to young at the time to think and ask a lot of questions. My great-grandmother (there mother) was a great seamstress, and it was the depression era so they sewed a lot of there own clothes at the time out of necessity. I assume it was my great-grandmother that taught them how to do it.... A lot of information in those days was handed down verbally....
I haven't even finished watching your video yet, but just wanted to say: ehrmagehrd how much I like your videos! I'm super-new, post-cocovid follower and I've already binged so many of your videos that I don't even wanna admit. I'm also a little obsessed with your hair, I'm thinking about cutting mine and your hair just seems so wild and fresh and youknowwhatimean. We are in completely different timezones (hello from Finland) so I'm watching this video post-sauna just before bedtime ;) keep it up!
Exactly what I wanted to say. Except for the hair part...
Glad to see you figured out the sleeves! They are typically cut along a fold, you did it just right!
That looked scary Ô.Ô It's actually impressive how different the pattern pieces turned out with both methods - sure they're the same basic shapes, but still different...
This is very cool! Also, thank you for confirming I am not the only ones that rewears clothes in videos! I love your caftan reappearance!!
I love this...could have used this years ago when I owned (non vintage) clothes that I loved to death.
Thank you, Abby, for the timing of this! I got a new book reference, and got to see a couple of different ways to try patterning from existing garments! I am new at all of this, and am at least starting with simple modern garments, cause I have sewn, I believe, 5 times total, and that was about 20 years ago. This is going to be an interesting ride! (and you helped!...) Subbed!
ETA: filming and showing the uncertainty of the process, and talking about what worked, what didn't, and your thoughts along the way was hugely helpful. Are you going to do mockups from each of these at some point? They say the proof is in the pudding, and it would help to know what worked and what didn't on an actual garment.
Thank you for sharing! I hope you got some rest in, and are feeling a bit better
1860s Gabaldi blouse has big sleeves and is beautiful.
That looked tougher than I expected... Btw it is not strange that the pieces look slightly different from both methods: the first time the garment is laid out flat and the second time the garment is rounded and the paper is moulded to the outside. Just looking at the geometry: the latter will easily add some millimetres to all sides, with the first any subltle stretches and bunches will easily be lost. The true shapes may well lie somewhere in the middle of both. (Disclaimer: I have hardly any experience with sewing, but have mapped a lot of landscapes as a geographer ;-))
please! make mock-ups of both versions of the bodice and see how they look! the proof is in the pudding! :)
An idea for y'all who might be trying the tissue paper method. If you are having trouble finding seams, prior to tissue paper, outline seam by pinning on a contrasting color ribbon or piece of welting to make a tactile edge then it will be easy to find through the paper. Maybe maybe not just an idea
I have two vintage dresses I want to copy (one 1928 day dress, one 1950s dress). The 1928 in theory is going to be easy to take a pattern from, but I've put off trying to pattern the 1950s one for 15 years now. Pleats and darts and a collar.... yikes! Seeing how to pinch out the darts with the Victorian method really helped. I'll probably try a combination of the two methods when attempting the 1950s dress.
Hi! I really enjoyed your video. I had one thought, and probably not worth the trouble, but perhaps it would be interesting to try the techniques off a garment you have sewn from a known pattern so that would can do a side by side comparison to the original pattern pieces. A sort of reverse engineering. Perhaps I'll try it!
Really enjoyed that, I've done the paper raping but with very fine fabric as it moulds the same as the garment you are trying to copy , Jason from England 🤓
You are a freaking tonic, Abby.
What great ways to take off a pattern!!! The tissue method looks so interesting especially for the darts as you already pointed out! :)))
Thank you. Some of my least happy results have been from trying to replicate existing favorites. I actually learned a lot from your struggle. Brave! Funny! Delightful! Soldier on, Abby. Soldier on.
I always tend to draw patterns from scratch, first because I have no access to originals (😭😭😭), second because my body shape is a mess and grading a one size pattern really doesn't work on me (it could also be because I really have no idea how to do it well). In the past I used the Frienship's manual for the bases, and looked at Vaugh and Arnold for patterns' variation references... I love that thanks to you and other costubers I'm starting to be able to find antique manuals ❤️
Both of these methods look good. And they beat my time tested habit of 'just eyeballing it'.
Have a good rest, brain fog is the worst. :}
Honestly that's such a good way of pulling patterns, I think I'm going to try this!
Q&A: what’s the worst thing you have done to someone who improperly used your fabric scissors?
My husband bought me a new pair after he got the death stare....
Making it fun. It’s going to be interesting.
Trying two things at once is like Squirrel!!!
Pinnable board is cool.
You’re doing the first method well.
The jello brain is a real thing. It’s really cool that it’s working.
Complicated sleeves are real.
The second method is interesting, but I don’t know which I like best.
I’ll see you next week.
My ice cream friend remember in stress mood take a break eat a wanderfull ice cream. After that, everything is more sweet.
I love the music interaction you make me laugh so hard
pioneer work in progress :D i feel like like an historical theatre where they disected humans for science xD
And right here ^^^ is why I always pay for my patterns unless it is free in a book and such.
this pin method is good for replicating an old quilt pattern as well
I "liked' the vid just because you're trying a new thing! Good job!
Abby, I just want to say I loved the style of this video with the edits. Also a good branching out video.
This is awesome! I recently bought a late 1930s early 1940s dress that I wanted to try and pull a pattern from but I had no idea where to start. I'll have to give these techniques a try.
Very interesting! My mother keeps asking me to turn more of her clothes into patterns (I managed one for her for her birthday) and I might need to try Mme Löfvall's method as well. Also, your dress in this video is beautiful! I assume you made it, but which pattern did you use if one may ask?
Abby has a video on making the dress she's wearing with a link to the pattern.
@@cincocats320 not that I can find. It is a little bit similar (in that it's blue stripes and a wrap front) to the caftan but it's not the same.
@@Anna-yi8bj I apologize. I confused it with the caftan dress. I agree, if she made it she needs to give us the details!
@@cincocats320 No worries! At first glance I thought it was that too, but as I have actually made the same caftan after seeing Abby make it (and having the video paused at one particular frame to compare something for way too long haha) I immediately realised it was ANOTHER dress I want.
@@Anna-yi8bj now that I look at it, the bodice and sleeve look similar to the red dress. I wonder if she reused the pattern in a summer weight fabric?
This vid was recommended by RUclips the same day I just finished both Craftsy.com classes by Steffani Lincecum. She is a brilliant costume designer and how she teaches garment reproduction is very understandable. Can't wait to get my hands on a vintage piece and try this!
Hi Abby. In a new sub from cocovid. I’m based in Louisville and I’m interested in 1920s clothing and sew on a 1926 singer treadle machine. Also from you hogwarts house vid, I’m a slytherin.
Hi there! #cocovid been there
I love the style of these vids