No, thank you!! Without your service/products we wouldn’t be able to help keep these old cars looking great. Excited to try out the shock towers soon! Ive been hand making them over the years, a pre made unit will be great for the customers.
awesome video as always. the rust repair videos are my favorites. so impressive the difference that can be made. I would watch an hour plus of content like this. cole is lucky to learn from someone so knowledgable!
as someone who is attempting to restore a car on my own these videos are priceless! Thanks for sharing your techniques with us. What type of expoxy are you painting your patch panels with? Also, have you ever covered fender rolling or how to reconstruct an inner rear fender in any of your videos? Last question, any advice on removing the 4 dreaded rear subframe bolts?
Done lots of fender well repairs but haven’t gone deep into them. I will on next candidate though! We use ppg versolon cre 92x As for the rear subframe bolts, if they spin in the frame, if you can then cut them to remove frame. Then drill straight up through the bolt holes on the frame and into the floor, then with a step bit, make a 1 inch hole and you can later nut and bolt it
I love these videos, really good work. My bugeye luckily has barely any "frame or body" rust, mostly replaceable subframe and suspension. Hope it survives more midwest winters before I can get it fixed.
Dang i wish. Both my bugeyes are completely blown. 20 years of michigan winter will do that... Spray that jawn. I use woolwax on my forester. Even if you don't sand before, anything makes such a noticable difference for salty roads.
Curious what a ballpark cost would be on something like this? My 07 STi Limited is getting rusty from 14 years in eastern Ontario/western Quebec. Not quite as bad as the one in the video.
Don’t leave us hangin!! Awesome work as usual! Realistically, what’s your lead time for customer jobs? My 07 Impreza is going to be a long project for me, but I’d love you guys to do the paint work.
Also, after coating everything in the brush on epoxy, i thought youd panel bond them on instead of welding. Seems to me itd be faster, less warp, less burning. Always interesting to see others techniques. Your work looks great, thanks for sharing!
Maybe some stuff would be ok with panel bond, but i just dont trust it everywhere. If using panel bond youd have to plan out your patches from the start. All would need an overlap. All these were butt welded so no turning back after that
excellent work!!! What product do you use to epoxy the insides of the new pannels? is it just epoxy primer not sprayed? also, when affixing the rear 1/4s to the inner wheel-house, do you weld it and seam seal it? Spot Weld? Cavity wax? I've been using 3M pannel bond do do the insides of the 1/4 pannels in lieu of welding to make sure its 100% water tight... this only works if the pannels fit 100% of course. Curious to hear your thoughts
Using ppg versolon cre-92x Ya thats a good method for the 1/4 seam. They are tricky especially if pre rolling fender. I did the seam the best i could then urethane seam sealer. Then yes, I always spray in fluid film into the panels after paint. Its a wax/oil base, does a good job
I want to get to them this fall so the inners stay solid 😂 then they will release them Jan 2024 . I keep watching other cars to see if I can find a close profile and adapt those ..... Love my King springs 😁
Wow... I was wondering at what point it stops being worth doing all this work? Isn't better just finding a base model donor shell in much better condition and swapping over all the parts? Just saying.. Regardless, amazing work as always guys!
The truth is: its NEVER worth doing this. There is zero return in doing something like this. The reason to do it is because you just want to. For this one, a re shell and re paint would have ended up same cost in the end. We have a re shell vs repair project coming up in the fall. Will be a good example
For the bottom, higher heat for good penetration and As long as welds are covered with epoxy after then your safe. If i had a spot welder id definitely be using it along bottoms
Thanks for the support and putting our parts to such good use!!
No, thank you!! Without your service/products we wouldn’t be able to help keep these old cars looking great.
Excited to try out the shock towers soon! Ive been hand making them over the years, a pre made unit will be great for the customers.
need to make newer gen panels for sti wide body wagon 10-13
Damn I’m glad I live and my WRX has always been in California and I don’t have to worry about rust to that degree. Great videos love the content
@@SushiPac it is a brutal reality here
awesome video as always. the rust repair videos are my favorites. so impressive the difference that can be made. I would watch an hour plus of content like this.
cole is lucky to learn from someone so knowledgable!
I definitely enjoy watching these too, its the steady transformation
"The trunk is so wack. Even though it doesn't look wack, it is wack." 😂
as someone who is attempting to restore a car on my own these videos are priceless! Thanks for sharing your techniques with us. What type of expoxy are you painting your patch panels with? Also, have you ever covered fender rolling or how to reconstruct an inner rear fender in any of your videos? Last question, any advice on removing the 4 dreaded rear subframe bolts?
Done lots of fender well repairs but haven’t gone deep into them. I will on next candidate though!
We use ppg versolon cre 92x
As for the rear subframe bolts, if they spin in the frame, if you can then cut them to remove frame. Then drill straight up through the bolt holes on the frame and into the floor, then with a step bit, make a 1 inch hole and you can later nut and bolt it
I love these videos, really good work. My bugeye luckily has barely any "frame or body" rust, mostly replaceable subframe and suspension. Hope it survives more midwest winters before I can get it fixed.
Cherish it my dude, and get it oil sprayed to preserve 🙌
Dang i wish. Both my bugeyes are completely blown. 20 years of michigan winter will do that...
Spray that jawn. I use woolwax on my forester. Even if you don't sand before, anything makes such a noticable difference for salty roads.
Impeccable work, as always.
Top notch work. Wish you had a shop in the US. Would you please ID the brush on epoxy you used. Thanks.
Yes! Its PPG versolon Cre-92X comes in white, grey, black. Amazing stuff
Curious what a ballpark cost would be on something like this? My 07 STi Limited is getting rusty from 14 years in eastern Ontario/western Quebec. Not quite as bad as the one in the video.
99.999999% of people would turn you away for those types of repairs
@joshuathomas4934 100%
@@TheSubieSanctuary would you be willing to do my blobeye
Your videos so satisfying lol
I really enjoy this vid myself, very captivating and lots of carnage right up to body redemption 🙌
I can taste this video. Nice work as always!
😂 oh yes
Don’t leave us hangin!! Awesome work as usual!
Realistically, what’s your lead time for customer jobs? My 07 Impreza is going to be a long project for me, but I’d love you guys to do the paint work.
Final vid next week 🙌 It’s typically about 6-12 months for full paint jobs to get in
straight attacked that wackness awesome work subie fam!👊💙💯
You know that saying 😂 once you go whack, you should probably go back
lmfao@@TheSubieSanctuary
Another subie saved. Great work.
Can't wait to see the color!
Nice work saving another car 👍
Also, after coating everything in the brush on epoxy, i thought youd panel bond them on instead of welding. Seems to me itd be faster, less warp, less burning. Always interesting to see others techniques. Your work looks great, thanks for sharing!
Maybe some stuff would be ok with panel bond, but i just dont trust it everywhere.
If using panel bond youd have to plan out your patches from the start. All would need an overlap. All these were butt welded so no turning back after that
@@TheSubieSanctuary roger that, thanks for the insight
At 7:37 what product are you sealing the metal with, por-15?? Great work!
Similar product, its a 2 part epoxy
dope as always my dude
Great job 🏆
excellent work!!! What product do you use to epoxy the insides of the new pannels? is it just epoxy primer not sprayed? also, when affixing the rear 1/4s to the inner wheel-house, do you weld it and seam seal it? Spot Weld? Cavity wax? I've been using 3M pannel bond do do the insides of the 1/4 pannels in lieu of welding to make sure its 100% water tight... this only works if the pannels fit 100% of course. Curious to hear your thoughts
Using ppg versolon cre-92x
Ya thats a good method for the 1/4 seam. They are tricky especially if pre rolling fender. I did the seam the best i could then urethane seam sealer.
Then yes, I always spray in fluid film into the panels after paint. Its a wax/oil base, does a good job
I so wish that made repair panels for 2012 and newer. Need to do my rockers .......
I bet they will make them soon, subie savers is really kicking up production and development right now
I want to get to them this fall so the inners stay solid 😂 then they will release them Jan 2024 . I keep watching other cars to see if I can find a close profile and adapt those ..... Love my King springs 😁
@@fixinanddoinstuff2134 ive made them for 08+ before. Just need to chop a section out for the shape and mimic on a bender 😬
What would the cost be just to do the rear fender subi saivers if that was the only rust spots?
With cost of panels, labour and the paint it would cost $3500-$4000(can) here
@@TheSubieSanctuary Awesome thank you. Given the labor time that is very reasonable.
Would you do my blobeye needs some work
For sure, it is a good wait to get in though
What guage steel do you guys recommend for the structural patchwork?
External body metal 22g
Frame patch or shock tower 20-18g
Braille on the hood read “help me Subie daddy”
Whats the total cost of a job like this? Its a ton of work
This hole job was about $10k ca. definitely a mission to push through.
Wow... I was wondering at what point it stops being worth doing all this work? Isn't better just finding a base model donor shell in much better condition and swapping over all the parts?
Just saying.. Regardless, amazing work as always guys!
The truth is: its NEVER worth doing this. There is zero return in doing something like this. The reason to do it is because you just want to.
For this one, a re shell and re paint would have ended up same cost in the end.
We have a re shell vs repair project coming up in the fall. Will be a good example
Hmmmmm is it my car you are volunteering to do a rust free mint body swap 👍
So friggin awesome lol
"Not that bad" *cuts 35% of the car off*. Have you found any downsides of plug welding rocker panels rather than spot welding them?
For the bottom, higher heat for good penetration and As long as welds are covered with epoxy after then your safe.
If i had a spot welder id definitely be using it along bottoms