Been in the hobby (not a hunter) for about six months watching RUclips videos and came across Griv today...thank you for professional and expert advice. Appreciate it and will watch and follow all your videos. Thanks, Ed
Very helpful, going to try this when I get home, I'm getting the exact same tear , thanks for explaining this simple , most videos are so complicated by the time your finished watching it you are more confused than when you started
This is a great video. I had a right tear I could NOT get rid of unless i had my rest well out of center shot spec on my Carbon Spyder ZT. it was tearing about an inch to the right. 3 full twists to my right yoke and boom! shooting bullet holes! Thanks!!!
Great tip, helped me to eliminate left tear, exactly the same like in this video. I had to add 5 full twists to the left yoke of my Faktor 34. Now bow shoots perfect bullet holes in paper tuning.
1st things first when tuning a bow I've learned Making sure your bow is set up correctly to manufactures specs, some split limb bows have different limb deflections and need to be set up properly in the right order, also make certain cam spacers are correct with manufactures specs, Proshops sometimes take bows apart and put them back together Incorrectly. more often than not.
Excellent advice. My carbon matrix I couldn't get paper tuned for squat. I did notice a lot of cam lean.. I am going to reset everything to dead on center and then try your method to see if that will fix it.. I love how quiet it is and how fast it shoots, very easy draw also at the 60 lbs I have it set at..
Don't forget to recheck your center shot after doing this. Leaning the cam moves the string which will throw off your center shot. Getting that perfect tear is an art form of chasing the right yoke tune combined with maintaining perfect center shot. I use a laser center shot gauge to make sure center shot is perfect and then yoke tune to remove side to side tears. Recheck, rinse and repeat. This video is very helpful in showing that process. Most "pro" shops will "set it and forget it". Meaning the eyeball center shot and ship the bow. No paper tune, no yoke tuning, no walk back tuning, etc.
Not really - or not at all actually. Yoke tuning is the process of removing or counter-acting the horizontal pull of the string in one direction or the other that the cams exert on the string after release. Most compounds have some cam lean that can not be removed. When you release this lean pulls the string in one direction or the other which can flick the tail of the arrow left or right upon it's release from the string. Yoke tuning either removes this lean - or in the case where it can't be removed like a single yoke bow - then you end up counter-acting it by intentionally introducing lean in the other opposing cam in the opposing direction. It really is completely unrelated to center shot. That said - I have seen others "yoke tune" their bow to eliminate a left or right tear that has come from something else being out of tune. Improper arrow spine for example. But if you need your center shot intentionally set off center to get a straight tear - then something's wrong.
Great video. I love the home made paper holder. I actually want to do the same. From the video I can see it is a camera tri-pod, a clamp. How do you get the clamp to stay on the camera tripod while it is holding the wood?
Looked for this info on RUclips for years. I have timed and checked cam lean but did not know that changing the lean might help paper tuning. Never been able to paper tune very well at all and I know my bow is set up square.
Hello Griv, from the video you have said that the bus cables should be even. I am tuning my own bow Hoyt cybertec with single versa cam. I bought the bow and have used it for a while.Recently i went to Lancaster Archery and they said that the draw length was dead on 31.5 (spec.) with that being said i dont know if the cables have stretched.there is a difference in the yokes by a 1/4 " . Now im paper tuning and i have a high left tare. My question is should i adjust my yoke from this position or make them even and tune from there. Rest is centered even with burger button with 1/4" hgh nock set per (specs) now nock is at 3/8 better result with this now i want to get rid of the fishtail. Can you please comment on this THANK YOU
Loved the pointers. I've been paper tuning bows for years and have met my challenge. The Mathews Monster Chill R, which has fixed yokes. It's tearing to the right by about 1" for a Gold tip Carbon weighing 9.30 grains / inch. The Carbon Express 350 weighing 9.07 grains / inch is tearing to the right about 1 1/2" ... weird stuff. Any pointers would be most appreciated.
My Mathews also tears nock left. I discovered that during full draw that the bow riser and limbs torque out of center by about 3/4 of an inch. I verified this using a laser pointer zeroed on the nock of the arrow. When I draw I can watch the bow torque out of center. Search you tube for bow torque test and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. Unfortunately not a lot we can do about it... We can work on our form - but not much we can do to correct design deficiencies in the equipment. My solution going forward is to stay away from short axle to axle bows, and to avoid roller cable guard bows as these impart the most horizontal torque during full draw. Paper tuning a bow like this is a frustrating experience. My recommendation is just to french and/or walk back tune and skip the paper.
Great Vid! Cheers. I notice you have a torqueless D Loop on here. How do you find regular D Loops with say, a 'Dudley' style anchor point and thumb release hand position (3 finger knuckles against cheek) with corresponding string torque affects paper tuning?
Great video as well. I'm tuning a Hoyt vector 35 LH. I am getting a left hand tear? (Tip is to the right of the fletch). Does that mean I need to add a twist or two to the left yoke? Also, I see you only added twist to the one side, is that correct? I'm close, about 3/8" or so to the right. Thanks
I assume you also need to tweek the cable string half a turn or so? When you add a few twists to the left side of the yoke cable this slows down the top Cam rotation by about an 1/8 inch and might effect the timing?
I have always been curious what is your recommendation as to what is “too many” twists/untwists to a yoke? In relation to where to stop to prevent possible string derailment?
I can't speak for George, but when you see your string laying far to one side or the other in the groove of your cam, you should start being concerned about too many twists creating too much cam lean.
Hey Griv! Are you shooting through wax paper? If your using it, it must give the best results. What other types of "paper" would you recommend? Great vid, thanks for the tips.
Al Burk Wax paper does give the best results. It's just the right thickness. You can use "freezer" paper or butcher's paper too form the grocery store.
just saw a video why modern risers don't need to be paper tuned. that made a lot of since. I never thought about tuning for a double yoke. I guess you shot a hole in that theory c(= thank you very much. does hurt the axle holes to or not to do this? or neither?
do you have to untwist the opposite yoke strand when twisting? IE: one twist on left yoke + one untwist on right yoke to keep from changing the ATA or draw length?
***** if your axle to axle is within spec - then no. but I would never add/remove more than 4 total twists from center/level. That introduces too much lean in the cam and derailment becomes a possibility.
I have a question the cams in my bow are offset from each other so the string runs on an angle from the bottom land to the top lip and some people are saying level up your string and then level your sight to match your string level.. or level the riser and level the sight to match the riser..
Been in the hobby (not a hunter) for about six months watching RUclips videos and came across Griv today...thank you for professional and expert advice. Appreciate it and will watch and follow all your videos.
Thanks,
Ed
What a great, informative video! The presenter is fantastic
Big love from Australia 🇦🇺
thanks for this - its hands down one of the best paper tuning videos i have seen.
fantastic tip thank you very much. if it wasn't for RUclips I'd be lost stuck up the creek without a Paddle. thanks again from the UK
Great video explaining the yoke,had this same left tear and moved my rest all over the place,yoke tuning solved my issue. Thank you!
Very helpful, going to try this when I get home, I'm getting the exact same tear , thanks for explaining this simple , most videos are so complicated by the time your finished watching it you are more confused than when you started
This is a great video. I had a right tear I could NOT get rid of unless i had my rest well out of center shot spec on my Carbon Spyder ZT. it was tearing about an inch to the right. 3 full twists to my right yoke and boom! shooting bullet holes! Thanks!!!
Great tip, helped me to eliminate left tear, exactly the same like in this video. I had to add 5 full twists to the left yoke of my Faktor 34. Now bow shoots perfect bullet holes in paper tuning.
Best paper tuning video I’ve seen!
1st things first when tuning a bow I've learned Making sure your bow is set up correctly to manufactures specs, some split limb bows have different limb deflections and need to be set up properly in the right order, also make certain cam spacers are correct with manufactures specs, Proshops sometimes take bows apart and put them back together Incorrectly.
more often than not.
Very nice tip , learned the lesson, with this tip can setup the bow in few shots, thx for posting
Well done, and very helpful!
This guy knows bows! Thanks for the great video!
Excellent advice. My carbon matrix I couldn't get paper tuned for squat. I did notice a lot of cam lean.. I am going to reset everything to dead on center and then try your method to see if that will fix it.. I love how quiet it is and how fast it shoots, very easy draw also at the 60 lbs I have it set at..
This helped today with a nock right tear! Thanks!
Don't forget to recheck your center shot after doing this. Leaning the cam moves the string which will throw off your center shot. Getting that perfect tear is an art form of chasing the right yoke tune combined with maintaining perfect center shot.
I use a laser center shot gauge to make sure center shot is perfect and then yoke tune to remove side to side tears. Recheck, rinse and repeat.
This video is very helpful in showing that process. Most "pro" shops will "set it and forget it". Meaning the eyeball center shot and ship the bow. No paper tune, no yoke tuning, no walk back tuning, etc.
Not really - or not at all actually. Yoke tuning is the process of removing or counter-acting the horizontal pull of the string in one direction or the other that the cams exert on the string after release. Most compounds have some cam lean that can not be removed. When you release this lean pulls the string in one direction or the other which can flick the tail of the arrow left or right upon it's release from the string. Yoke tuning either removes this lean - or in the case where it can't be removed like a single yoke bow - then you end up counter-acting it by intentionally introducing lean in the other opposing cam in the opposing direction. It really is completely unrelated to center shot.
That said - I have seen others "yoke tune" their bow to eliminate a left or right tear that has come from something else being out of tune. Improper arrow spine for example. But if you need your center shot intentionally set off center to get a straight tear - then something's wrong.
Great video. I love the home made paper holder. I actually want to do the same. From the video I can see it is a camera tri-pod, a clamp. How do you get the clamp to stay on the camera tripod while it is holding the wood?
LCArchery my bow has two cams. So if it's tearing left like one in the video was, would I put a twist in both top and bottom left cables?
Great video! I definitely learned a lot
Looked for this info on RUclips for years. I have timed and checked cam lean but did not know that changing the lean might help paper tuning. Never been able to paper tune very well at all and I know my bow is set up square.
Hello Griv, from the video you have said that the bus cables should be even. I am tuning my own bow Hoyt cybertec with single versa cam. I bought the bow and have used it for a while.Recently i went to Lancaster Archery and they said that the draw length was dead on 31.5 (spec.) with that being said i dont know if the cables have stretched.there is a difference in the yokes by a 1/4 " . Now im paper tuning and i have a high left tare. My question is should i adjust my yoke from this position or make them even and tune from there. Rest is centered even with burger button with 1/4" hgh nock set per (specs) now nock is at 3/8 better result with this now i want to get rid of the fishtail. Can you please comment on this THANK YOU
Great video, Thank You
Im here cuz of Chris Bee. He speaks highly of you
Loved the pointers. I've been paper tuning bows for years and have met my challenge. The Mathews Monster Chill R, which has fixed yokes. It's tearing to the right by about 1" for a Gold tip Carbon weighing 9.30 grains / inch. The Carbon Express 350 weighing 9.07 grains / inch is tearing to the right about 1 1/2" ... weird stuff. Any pointers would be most appreciated.
My Mathews also tears nock left. I discovered that during full draw that the bow riser and limbs torque out of center by about 3/4 of an inch. I verified this using a laser pointer zeroed on the nock of the arrow. When I draw I can watch the bow torque out of center. Search you tube for bow torque test and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about.
Unfortunately not a lot we can do about it... We can work on our form - but not much we can do to correct design deficiencies in the equipment.
My solution going forward is to stay away from short axle to axle bows, and to avoid roller cable guard bows as these impart the most horizontal torque during full draw.
Paper tuning a bow like this is a frustrating experience. My recommendation is just to french and/or walk back tune and skip the paper.
Great Vid! Cheers. I notice you have a torqueless D Loop on here. How do you find regular D Loops with say, a 'Dudley' style anchor point and thumb release hand position (3 finger knuckles against cheek) with corresponding string torque affects paper tuning?
Great video as well. I'm tuning a Hoyt vector 35 LH. I am getting a left hand tear? (Tip is to the right of the fletch). Does that mean I need to add a twist or two to the left yoke? Also, I see you only added twist to the one side, is that correct? I'm close, about 3/8" or so to the right. Thanks
for a 2 cams bow which yoke should i twist may i ask?
this vid is by far the best vid EVER
great video
I assume you also need to tweek the cable string half a turn or so? When you add a few twists to the left side of the yoke cable this slows down the top Cam rotation by about an 1/8 inch and might effect the timing?
I have always been curious what is your recommendation as to what is “too many” twists/untwists to a yoke? In relation to where to stop to prevent possible string derailment?
I can't speak for George, but when you see your string laying far to one side or the other in the groove of your cam, you should start being concerned about too many twists creating too much cam lean.
I was wondering what the brand name of the light you have over top of your press?
Thanks. Big help
Hey Griv! Are you shooting through wax paper? If your using it, it must give the best results. What other types of "paper" would you recommend? Great vid, thanks for the tips.
Al Burk Wax paper does give the best results. It's just the right thickness. You can use "freezer" paper or butcher's paper too form the grocery store.
well George if that's your hunting bow! i may have to review my setup as that looks like a target bow to me!
I think he said it was his outdoor bow.
What a great video.
How do you decent from top/bottom cam or left/right yoke based on the tear?!?!?
thanks, can't get any clearer then that! any advice for the traditional archer using a recurve bow?
Yeah.... Bin it! ;-) ;-)
Just kidding. Love my flatbow!
Ok what about a tail low 1 inch? I've added 3 full twist into the control cable on a hybrid system. Still low but better. Any tips guys?
just saw a video why modern risers don't need to be paper tuned. that made a lot of since. I never thought about tuning for a double yoke. I guess you shot a hole in that theory c(= thank you very much.
does hurt the axle holes to or not to do this? or neither?
without side bar my bow shoots awesome bollet holes, I put it and it shoots the arrows with the point to the left....it's weird
thanks for your help friend served me , I hope so haha well thanks Alike .
do you have to untwist the opposite yoke strand when twisting?
IE: one twist on left yoke + one untwist on right yoke to keep from changing the ATA or draw length?
***** if your axle to axle is within spec - then no. but I would never add/remove more than 4 total twists from center/level. That introduces too much lean in the cam and derailment becomes a possibility.
Zack A Thanks, and thanks for allyour info, very helpful.
what type of paper do you shoot through -pls can you name brand etc thx
Hi, he uses regular kitchen scotch paper from any grocery store.
What's the distance to the paper, or does that matter much?
It could be anywhere right at 5 yards and give you a true measurement.
Didn't know Axl Rose is an experienced archer. Joking aside, great video!
This is great if your bow has yokes...but what if it doesn't?
Gona have to shim your cams!
Who thought that music over EVERYTHING was a good idea?
Will this work for a single cam?
shane berkness yes sir it will work the same way...
that's what I thought but I just wanted to make sure before I messed something up. thanks
Sooo... what if your bow doesn’t have a yoke?
toxonomy just rest movements
Or moving cams
lol, I've been telling this to some compounders but they won't believe me since I shoot recurve :')
Recurve?????
now split limbs make sense to me
Many thanks, please don't stop
Great video but lose the background music.
yikes! that's 101?
Great video minus the constant music in the background, very distracting trying to listen.
Thank you!
I have a question the cams in my bow are offset from each other so the string runs on an angle from the bottom land to the top lip and some people are saying level up your string and then level your sight to match your string level.. or level the riser and level the sight to match the riser..