I seem to remember that with my fireflite, I used to tiller the bow so there was between 1/8 and 1/4" difference between the top and bottom limb at the riser.
On my Stratos, the timing on the draw board is dead on, but in practice, my 'soft' shots are almost always a low 9. I've never creep tuned, but I'll have to give it a shot to see if I can tighten that gap. Also, when each cable attaches to both cams, what is considered the 'bottom' or 'top' cable?
Great video. I wonder if you could comment on whether creep tuning with something like a hooter shooter might be useful to remove the "archer factor" for those of us that can't hold as steady as you... particularly when trying to hold off the wall. If I could creep tune with a hooter shooter, then I could eliminate me from the equation when creep tuning, and then concentrate on my shooting... 🙂 Or is creep tuning more about making the bow more robust against the individual failings of a specific archer, where a hooter shooter would be irrelevant?
Pulling hard on the round-round cam stores more energy as the cam rolls over further and limbs flex more, and likewise the "soft draw" would be shorter in the force curve, storing less energy, resulting in high impacts for flatter/faster arrow flight, while the low impact would be resultant of less energy storage/transfer.
Not really. Pulling against the wall doesn’t really increase stored energy. Once the cam completes its turn to the valley the job is done. You’d need to add enough pressure to actually bend the limbs more to increase pressure. Roughly speaking, that would take about 200#
Question? You state your going to and then say you did put a twist in the bottom cam but while doing the twisting you state “I actually need to take a twist out “. Which was correct?
Excellent as usual! Been following you since the beginning of the internet.(haha) You really improved my archery way back in the day when you posted your how to build strings thread on the old ALC forum. I still have my Hoyt Pro Vantage FPS Plus from 1988. Easily tunable(twistable cables) sure made life easier than trying to move the steel cable in the wheel. Love what you do with all of the young archers!!! Here are two of your students you have been coaching that you have never met... yet. ruclips.net/video/YZgyid-Hfm0/видео.htmlsi=lFqWKqOR0XwyccAJ
Very easy to understand and very logical. It helps to be reminded of certain adjustments that we easily forget trough the years.
Thank you, George.
Thank you griv !! Excellent run through on this
Great video thank you so much for the info 😊
Thanks for this video!!!
Super helpful, I always just set mine up to be visually "In time".
I seem to remember that with my fireflite, I used to tiller the bow so there was between 1/8 and 1/4" difference between the top and bottom limb at the riser.
On my Stratos, the timing on the draw board is dead on, but in practice, my 'soft' shots are almost always a low 9. I've never creep tuned, but I'll have to give it a shot to see if I can tighten that gap. Also, when each cable attaches to both cams, what is considered the 'bottom' or 'top' cable?
Wichever cable a cam is "rolling up " controls it, But , it will affect the other cam on a bow with no yokes. Like bowtech binary, but not much,
Thank you
I had a first Gen fast flight system Hoyt Spectra (still have the bits somewhere, very nice bow to shoot and I could get my hand around the grip !)
Great video. I wonder if you could comment on whether creep tuning with something like a hooter shooter might be useful to remove the "archer factor" for those of us that can't hold as steady as you... particularly when trying to hold off the wall. If I could creep tune with a hooter shooter, then I could eliminate me from the equation when creep tuning, and then concentrate on my shooting... 🙂
Or is creep tuning more about making the bow more robust against the individual failings of a specific archer, where a hooter shooter would be irrelevant?
This might seem like an odd question… is Creep tuning distance specific?
I need to do this
Letting down is my hardest thing to do.
Please make a video on micro adjusting draw length.
for twin cam bow, is it the same adjustment?
Pulling hard on the round-round cam stores more energy as the cam rolls over further and limbs flex more, and likewise the "soft draw" would be shorter in the force curve, storing less energy, resulting in high impacts for flatter/faster arrow flight, while the low impact would be resultant of less energy storage/transfer.
Not really. Pulling against the wall doesn’t really increase stored energy. Once the cam completes its turn to the valley the job is done. You’d need to add enough pressure to actually bend the limbs more to increase pressure. Roughly speaking, that would take about 200#
Full twists or half twists?
Question?
You state your going to and then say you did put a twist in the bottom cam but while doing the twisting you state “I actually need to take a twist out “.
Which was correct?
Excellent as usual! Been following you since the beginning of the internet.(haha) You really improved my archery way back in the day when you posted your how to build strings thread on the old ALC forum. I still have my Hoyt Pro Vantage FPS Plus from 1988. Easily tunable(twistable cables) sure made life easier than trying to move the steel cable in the wheel. Love what you do with all of the young archers!!! Here are two of your students you have been coaching that you have never met... yet. ruclips.net/video/YZgyid-Hfm0/видео.htmlsi=lFqWKqOR0XwyccAJ